Back in the days when I shot a lot of film, I would typically use ISOs of 25, 50, 64, 100 and 160. I would consider ISO 400 film as my go-to high-ISO choice (yes, I considered ISO 400 to be high-ISO!), but sometimes that wasn’t enough. For black-and-white photography there were several good options (mostly involving push-process), yet for color the choices for good film with ISOs above 400 were few and far between. When I needed something faster than ISO 400 for color work, the two options that I typically went with were Fujicolor Pro 800Z and Fujicolor Superia 800.
Fujicolor Pro 800Z was a good indoor portrait film. It had muted colors, low contrast, a very slight yellow cast, accurate skin tones, and fine grain (for ISO 800 film). It was quite popular among wedding and event photographers. For low-light pictures of people it was the best option. I used it a few times.
Fujicolor Superia 800 was a better film choice for things other than portraits. Of the two films, it had more color saturation, more contrast, a green cast, less accurate skin tones and more grain. It was the more bold, gritty, punchy choice of the two. Not that it was particularly wild (because it wasn’t), but Pro 800Z, while it could be beautiful, was especially bland (which is why it was good for pictures of people). I used Superia 800 a lot more frequently than Pro 800Z.
With this in mind, I set out to create a facsimile to Superia 800 with my Fujifilm X100F. I wanted in-camera to create the look of the high-speed film. I experimented with different film simulations and settings, and was able to achieve something similar to the film, using PRO Neg. Std as the starting point. It’s not a 100% match, but I feel like it’s convincing enough that I might be able to fool someone into thinking that I used actual film instead of digital capture.
One issue that I have with this film simulation recipe is the film grain. Even with a strong grain effect selected, it’s not quite as grainy as Superia 800 (specifically, the faux grain is too small). In fact, it might not even be as grainy as Pro 800Z! If there was an extra-strength grain effect option I would choose that instead, but alas there is not. I think it is grainy enough to give the right impression, even if inaccurate.
Another thing that’s not quite right about my film simulation recipe is that skin tones are too accurate when compared to the film. Superia 800 did not render human skin as nicely as these settings do. Even though it’s not true to the film in this regard, it might be viewed as a positive and not a negative.
Otherwise, my Fujicolor Superia 800 Film Simulation recipe produces a convincing analog film look, delivering pleasing results in a variety of situations. I’ve been using it extensively since I created it a week ago. I’m very happy with how it renders photographs, so I anticipate it being one of my go-to film simulation options. I think it’s one of the best ones that I’ve discovered so far. I invite you to give it a try yourself!
PRO Neg. Std
Dynamic Range: DR200
Noise Reduction: -3
Grain Effect: Strong
White Balance: Auto, -2 Red & -3 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 (typically)
Example photos, all straight-out-of-camera JPEGs captured using my Fujicolor Superia 800 Film Simulation recipe:
My Fujifilm X100F PRO Neg. Hi Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Vintage Kodachrome Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Classic Chrome Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Astia Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Velvia Film Simulation Recipe
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Thank you so much! I am going to try your settings. I have been using x100f since June but I am still to find my go to settings. The problem is that I don’t know what I want :)))))
Thanks for commenting, Alexander! I’ve found some different settings that I like, but this recipe has already become one of my favorites. I hope you enjoy it, too.
Hi Ritchie! I gave it a try. I am pleased with the results I had. Take a look at my last post 🙂 Thank you. A bit too greenish, but it’s ok.
Be sure to leave a link, Alexander!
I found your blog by absolute coincidence. You are delivering some amazing stuff!
I have a question about the WB-shift. Is it possible to make it from the Q menu, and have it stored in different pressets, or do I have to go to the General menu and adjust it there every time?
Thanks, David, for your comment! I appreciate your kind words! Unfortunately, there are no presets or shortcuts (that I know of) for white balance shift, and so you have to set it ahead of time and not forget to change it later.
First of all, let me say that I absolutely LOVE your film simulation recipes, the kodakchrome became an instant favorite the minute I tried it and I’m actually starting to ditch raw PP in favor of the camera jpgs!
As for the white balance, you can save 3 custom WB shift presets, I use that all to time to switch between personalized settings.
Thanks for the tip!
I’ve been using this simulation a lot these last few days and I’m loving it, great tones straight out of the camera! Here’s some examples: https://life-unintended.tumblr.com/post/174852183085/lake-life-lake-como-13th-of-june-2018
It really fits the mood of a rainy day. Nice shots, thanks for sharing!
That’s what I thought too. Fortunately it has been sunny these last couple of days, so your Kodachrome simulation has been my default for that classic summer vibe! 🙂
I am so happy that I found your website. I love your color recipes! However, I found your Superia preset to be a bit greenish, is that the case with original film as well?
Thank you! Yes, the film has a bit of a yellow-green color cast.
Funny. I grew up with the same impression: 400 iso was the film for complete darkness, 800 was something zi knew existed, 1600 was something I read about once or twice. My dad loaded his Olympus pen EE3 almost exclusively with Gold 200. When I used 400 iso, he said “are you CRAZY? Do you plan to shoot pitch black scenes?..”
That’s really funny! It’s amazing how far digital camera technology has taken us, and how quickly we have forgotten the way things used to be. Thanks for sharing, Sharon!
Hey! Love your recipes. Quick question, can you set a different white balance shift for different recipes becuase I just noticed when I switch to a different recipe, it keeps the same white balance.
Thank you! Unfortunately, there’s no way to save custom white balance shifts with each preset.
I absolutely love these settings for my x100f!
Glad that you like it!
Hi Ritchie, Thanks for all the amazing recipes. I recently bought an x100f and of the 7 custom settings available 4 of them have been set up by from your amazing recipes. I could not get the custom WB right for the Kodak Portra 400 one. Would you be able to make an blog on how you did set it up. May I please know if you use centre weighed metering or spot metering. I use spot and could see some images a bit overexposed on some images even at 1/3 exp.
One of the things that surprise me is the fact that all your recipes are typically requiring positive exposure compensation. I’ve always shot my photos on the left of the histogram to protect my highlights as I’ve always felt shadows are the easiest to recover, plus I like shadows. Speaking strictly in terms of digital photography. I’m always worried that shooting +2.3 for example, and digital cameras often over expose to begin with, will affect my raw files negatively. Any feedback would be welcome. Thanks
These recipes are designed for and are typically used by those who shoot JPEGs, so they’re not worried about RAW. I personally try to get the exposure right to start with, and I don’t bother with neither highlight nor shadow recovery because I am not usually manipulating my pictures. But feel free to “season to taste” any recipe, and find what settings work best for you. If underexposing and adjusting in post works for you, then do it. That’s my advice.
Great recipe. Will you be creating a Classic Negative for those of us who cannot afford and Xpro3?
I will certainly try! I have to get a better look at it first, though.
Believe me it is much appreciated. I love your Eterna recipe but this may replace it.
I like this recipe a lot. But may I ask if you know how to tweak the recipe a little to resemble the ISO 200 version (Superia 200) of this film? Thanks in advance!
Thank you! I’ve tried a few times, but never satisfied with the results. The new Classic Negative film simulation on the X-Pro3 looks like a close match, though.
Back in the day I only ever used two films: Superia 800 and Tri-X 400. A few news paper photographers I knew back then, that hadn’t yet switched to digital, swore to the Superia 800 and I quickly understood why and “copied” their approach. Your film simulation recipe of Superia 800 is spot on! Excellent work.
Thank you so much for the feedback! I really appreciate it. I’m glad to hear that you find it to be accurate. Take care!
Are you planning to try creating a fujicolor PRO 800Z?
I did try before without success, but I would love to. I’ll try again when I get a chance.
Great simulation as always. How do you think it would need to be tweaked in order for it to mimic my favourite film of all time – Fujicolor Press 800? It looks pretty close already.
Hmmm, I’m not real sure. I’ve never shot Press 800, and I haven’t researched it much at all (yet), but I’ll have to add that to my list. Thank you!
Hi again Ritchie, I’d be happy to email you some Press 800 scans if you think it would be helpful. 🙂
(sorry this was supposed to be in reply to your reply!)
Yeah, or if you have them somewhere else (Flickr, IG, etc), that works, too. My email is firstname.lastname@example.org
I greatly appreciate all your efforts in composing these film simulations! May you receive all the encouragement and commendation for a job well done. My question is, would this specific X-Trans III simulation as well as Vintage Kodachrome and Kodachrome II work on a Fujifilm XT3?
Yes, they do! There’s very little difference between how X-Trans III & X-Trans IV renders pictures, so it will look nearly identical on the X-T3 (I’ve used both this recipe and Vintage Kodachrome on my X-T30 with great success). I appreciate your kind words!
Alright. Though, as one of the issues with regards to saving film simulations, WB, it’s going to be tough managing the figures (R, B) by memory (https://fujixweekly.com/2018/05/20/possible-workaround-for-custom-white-balance-shift/). Just want to clarify if such an issue is found on the XT3 as well? (and that only the newer cameras like the XPro3, X100v, XT4, XS10 could adjust the white balance independently per preset). The Auto Custom WB’s banks don’t really exhibit AUTO WB but would depend on the gray card you would need to shoot and adjust the WB with? Thanks again, Ritchie.
Yeah, only the X-Pro3, X100V, and X-T4 can save WB Shifts in the presets (maybe the X-S10, too, although I’ve heard it doesn’t save custom presets, but is more like the X-T200; I haven’t verified this). So the X-T3 doesn’t have this capability, which is something that Fujifilm could fix with a firmware update (hint, hint, Fujifilm, if you’re listening).
Correct, Custom WB is a custom measurement, so you’ll have to remeasure anytime the light changes.
I hope this helps!
• Definitely. It helps me to motivate myself to use my brains to remember them WB shift settings. OR, just write it down on the custom name presets.
• What are recommended Film Sims for indoors? I kind of preferred the Portra 400 over the Kodachrome 64 as the latter’s shadow tones seem to be harsh.
•Also, any word on the release of the “Top 10 Film simulation presets of 2020” article? 🙂
• Thanks again, Ritchie. 🙂
Just published the Top 20 of 2020!
For indoors, kind of depends on what you’re after, but Agfa Optima, X100F Fujicolor Superia 800, Fujicolor 100 Industrial, and Analog Color are good options.
Thank you so much for the recommendations! I’ll look into them. I wad requesting for ideal indoor situations simply because we’re avoiding going out that much due to our circumstances.
By the way, I came across this comment of yours from the X100F Portra 400 page: “Custom white balance is a custom measurement. For things like “Daylight” it might be feasible to use Custom WB (simply measure a typical daylight lightening situation), but for AWB or a specific Kelvin value, it seems to me that Custom WB wouldn’t work. I guess for AWB, if you are constantly remeasuring the WB every time the light changes, that might also work, but is perhaps more effort than it’s worth?”— With that said, so I could use CWB for this specific film recipe on the XT3 such that lighting changes won’t affect white balance? (Actually, I really like the XT3/30 Portra 400 film recipe that I kind of want the “set it and forget it” for it on my custom presets).
THANKS AGAIN, RITCHIE.
Yeah, so you could, but indoor light changes significantly depending on if it’s natural or artificial (and what artificial). But you could find a measurement that you are happy with and “set it and forget it.” Really, it’s finding what works for you. It might take some experiments.
I see, Ritchie. Oooh, FUJI, please acknowledge Ritchie’s Fuji X Weekly Film Sim compositions AND update all the XT3/XT30 FWs such that White Balance Shifts can be independently set for each custom setting using similar White Balance presets.
As usual, Ritchie, I really appreciate your immediate responses despite doing this site on the side. And I’m pretty certain others are grateful for your contributions as well. Definitely, it will take you to new heights that you would think it’s unimaginable.
I appreciate it so much! Fujifilm knows about this website, but I don’t know how much they dig into it or how often they read it, but I hope they listen! Take care!
Can I use this for my xt200
You can, and feel free to try, but it won’t look exactly the same. You might or might not like the results. If you do try it, let me know what you think.
I have to say, Ritchie, that this particular Simulation is on its way to becoming possibly my favorite FujiXWeekly recipe of all time – and for that, again, I cannot thank you enough.
Quick explanation: I recently literally ‘downsized’ from an X-Pro3, which I had been using extensively for the last year or so, to an X-T3, for several reasons (I like smaller camera bodies, and also I am addicted to detailed EVF’s, two categories which the XT3 wins hands down against the XPro3). But in the process I lost both the X-Trans IV recipes I had been fond of, as well as the XPro3’s default Classic Neg setting. Hence my new interest in X-Trans III (and X-T3 specific) recipes. And—
From my admittedly unscientific and subjective perspective, your Superia 800 comes closer to what I liked about Classic Neg… than anything else I’ve run across. So, sorry for repeating those two words again, but…THANK YOU.
Also, for your amusement, you might want to take a quick look at this short link–
–where I posted some comparison shots of the current X-Trans III/X-T3 recipes I am experimenting with. As you’ll see if you skim through it, most of my favorite recipes come from your own Mad-Fujiholic-Scientist’s brain… something I am grateful for.
Thank you very much for your kindness! I’m so glad that you like this Superia 800 recipe—it’s perhaps my favorite recipe of all-time for cloudy/dreary days, so be sure to use it on a day like that 🙂 . Your experiment with the typewriter was quite fascinating, thanks for sharing!