Fujifilm – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro2 & 60mm
I’ve shared many film simulation recipes for Fujifilm X-Trans III cameras, such as the X100F and X-Pro2, and some of them have become quite popular. I’ve been asked a few times to share which ones are my favorites. Which film simulation recipes do I use?
I have used all of them at one time or another, but there are a handful of recipes that I really appreciate and use regularly. I have my favorites! Let me share with you which ones I currently use.
Kodachrome II
Quaker State – Midway, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro2 & 60mm
My favorite film simulation recipe that I created is my Kodachrome II Film Simulation recipe, which I initially made for the X-Pro2 but I also use on the X100F. I really love the way these settings render color images. It gives my exposures a beautiful vintage analog look right out of camera. It takes Classic Chrome to a whole new level of goodness! I use this recipe as much as the scenes allow because I love it so much.
Velvia
Red Leaves In The Forest – Wasatch Mountain SP, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro2 & 60mm
Typically I use my Velvia Film Simulation recipe only occasionally, but with the autumn season I’m currently using it often. However, I’ve modified the original recipe to be Highlight +1, Shadow +2 and color +3 to give it more punch, while also setting Noise Reduction to -3 and Sharpening to +1. This is a better version of the recipe, except when there is a lot of contrast, which is where the original settings will likely produce better results. The great thing about these different recipes is that they can be seasoned to taste.
Upcoming Recipe??
Sundance Chair Lift – Sundance, UT – Fujifilm X100F
I’ve been working on a new film simulation recipe that I’m currently only moderately happy with. It’s a work-in-progress, and right now it only produces good results occasionally. It seems to be very situation specific, and that means it’s difficult to get enough quality example photographs to publish an article. Even if I get everything ironed out and I find the best settings, it may still be awhile before I can share it. I’ve been shooting with this now and then over the last couple of weeks, and I’ll probably continue to do so over the next several weeks or months.
Honorable Mentions
Flat Tire – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro2 & 60mm
There are other recipes that I use for color photography, including PRO Neg. Hi, Ektar 100 and Portra 400, but as I was going over my recent photographs I realized that I haven’t used these much at all lately. It seems that my Kodachrome II recipe has essentially replaced them. That’s not to say that I won’t use them, as I like these recipes and they have their place, but I just haven’t picked them very often lately.
Tri-X Push Process
Disc 4000 – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro2 & 60mm
This Tri-X Push Process recipe is my favorite black-and-white film simulation option, but it’s not my invention. I stole it from Luis Costa who published it on his blog. It’s absolute genius, but its limitation is that it doesn’t always work in bright-light situations because it requires a high ISO. Whenever I can use it I do use it. It produces the most film-like results that I’ve ever seen from a digital camera.
Acros Push Process
Clouds Around Timpanogos – Heber City, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro2 & 50-230mm
Whenever I want results that are similar to the Tri-X Push Process settings but I need to use a lower ISO, I choose my Acros Push Process recipe. It’s not quite as good as Tri-X Push Process, but it’s a close second best. It was my favorite monochrome recipe until I discovered Luis Costa’s settings.
Agfa Scala
Epic Zip Line – Sundance, UT – Fujifilm X100F
When I want a black-and-white image with a little less contrast, I use my Agfa Scale Film Simulation recipe. It produces great results in higher-contrast scenes or whenever you need something that’s a little less bold than the two “push process” options. I don’t use it all of the time, but it definitely comes in handy from time-to-time.
Your Turn
Which film simulation recipes are your favorites? It can be one of mine or your own creation. Please share in the comments what JPEG settings you use on your Fujifilm cameras because I want to know!
I’m still using your original Kodachrome recipe as my main film simulation, but I think I’m gonna give the 2nd version another try. I’ve used it a few times but didn’t warm up to it as much as the original one, but your photos with it always look amazing!
PS: I’m really flattered that you’re still using my “pushed tri-x” simulation! 🙂
Thank you for sharing! I think I’m going to give Vintage Kodachrome another go as I haven’t used it in awhile. I’m pretty happy with how it turned out, but I have neglected it over the last several months, I think because of all the other recipes I made. By the way, your “Pushed Tri-X” recipe is fantastic!
Thank you! It’s wonderful to see it put to good use in your beautiful photographs! 🙂
I’m using the stock Velvia film simulation for landscapes, and slightly modified versions of your ACROS and Kodachrome II film simulation recipes.
The Kodachrome II sometimes produces results are too dark. I need to play more with the exposure compensation when shooting.
I’m waiting for the fall foliage to come into play to see what I may want to tweak with the Velvia. Hopefully I’ll see some sunny weekend days soon.
We had the effects of two tropical storms fill the skies with rain clouds for a few weeks and now we’ve entered fall I can expect more overcast (100% cloud coverage) days. I’m wondering how these recipes will perform under those flat lighting conditions.
Thank you for commenting! On those overcast days try this one for some interesting results: https://fujixweekly.wordpress.com/2018/02/03/my-fujifilm-x100f-fujicolor-superia-800-film-simulation-recipe-pro-neg-std/
Thank you. Will give that a try.
For B&W the Tri-X Push Process will work great on those overcast days.
I tried them all, I tried my own ones and I was never satisfied with the results. I like your Kodachrome II in your pictures but for me it is too dark. I like your Fujifilm Superia 800 the most. It is beautiful and elegant. As for me I now shoot with CC, shadows -1, highlights -1, red -1, blue -2, NR -4, sharpness +1, and I shoot all manually. I don’t understand Fujifilm shadows settings from +1 to +4. For me anything higher than 0 in shadows is too dark.
Thank you for participating! I like the Superia recipe, too, and I really need to use it more often. I will have to give your settings a try.
I have also taken a liking to your Kodachrome II, so thanks again! However, with a newborn in the house, too many of my photos are taken inside these days. With the fluorescent lights it gets a bit too yellow, hence I use auto white balance inside and also tend to use shadow 0. Perhaps there is a middle ground I should explore further regarding the white balance…
Acros green with weak grain on b/w portraits and acros red in b/w landscapes, no grain. The only editing I generally do is on my phone where I add a slight s-curve, and tweak the blues if the sky is prominent (as much as the jpeg will allow). It would be great if we were able to brighten the blacks somewhat in camera, to get the s-curve effect!
I love the controls that Fujifilm provides on X-Trans III cameras, but I would appreciate even more controls on future models. Maybe an s-curve option will be added someday.
Thank you for commenting!
I know this is not your most recent post but I actually favour your original Classic Chrome recipe. It’s a really good, every day, suits most subjects recipe. Alternating between that and your Velvia recipe covers just about everything I need. Thanks!
You are welcome! I appreciate your feedback. I’m glad to be of service.
I am a recent follower of your blog and in terms of preference, Kodachrome II is tops! However will it work well on the original Fuji X100?
Thanks! I’m particularly fond of my Kodachrome II recipe, as well. Unfortunately, it only will work on X-Trans III and IV cameras, and doesn’t translate to the other Fujifilm cameras.
The simulations look great, but I’m disppointed to know they won’t work on older cameras. Is it because older cameras don’t support customization at all or these in particular aren’t compatible? (I have an XT1 and an XE2)
X-Trans III & IV recipes aren’t compatible with X-Trans I & II cameras because Fujifilm changed the settings available on the camera. You can still use them as a basis to make something for the older models, but it’s going to be a little different.
Thanks for your reply. I started playing with my settings for something similar, I hope I can get something good 🙂
Keep at it and I’m confident that you will succeed.
Hi Ritchie!
Thanks for all putting your time and great effort to come up with these amazing recipes and share them with us. Do you have any go-to film simulation(s) or any particular setting for low-light shooting (especially at night or in-door)?
Depends on the situation and if I am shooting color or b&w. A lot also depends on the look I am after. I guess I don’t have one, but many different ones. I find the CineStill recipe is especially good for night pictures, but any of them could be. I don’t think I am being particularly helpful with this answer. I will think about it more and get back to you.
Thanks for your answer. I actually thought so that CineStill recipe was good for night urban pictures.
I’ve also used Velvia with some success. I think any of them could work, but CineStill and Velvia would be my top two options for color night photography.
Hello Ritchie! H
Have you ever thought about creating some in-production consumer grade film stocks like Kodak Color Plus 200, Kodak ProImage 100, Fujifilm Color 200, and Fujifilm X-Tra Superia 400?
I have this thought to bring the X-Pro2 and Canon A-1 with me on the next trip to Georgia and Souther Europe and to shoot some photos on the two camera side-by-side. After the trip, I’d like to make two photo books ( just for fun), one for those photos taken by a film camera and another for those photos taken by the X-Pro2
I’d very much appreciate it if you could help coming up with any of the above mentioned film stock.
So I have made Color Plus 200:
https://fujixweekly.com/2019/07/19/my-fujifilm-x-t30-kodacolor-film-simulation-recipe/
I have made a couple failed attempts at Superia 400 but I will keep trying as time allows.
I do think it would be an interesting experiment shooting with actual film juxtaposed with the corresponding film simulation recipe. I would be curious of the results.
Take care!
Thank you this Kodacolor recipe. After the trip, if the result is somewhat satisfied I will let you know.
I have just taken these test shots:
https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPi__IqxUb-G4CMamoJ-NzvPi6Y-Ow3mVIoebajuYYfT4XiEfUxKdTensAgZiOoNQ?key=NVc1ZUJsNllaRTlJTG1Kb1otSkdvUndCZWpKYWl3
On the left was taken by Kodak Color Plus 200 (normal exposure), developed by C-41 (as per manual instruction), scanned by Fujifilm SP3000.
On the right was a straight of our camera, taken by the X-Pro2 using your Kodacolor recipe. I didn’t do any post-processing.
What do you think?
That’s incredibly interesting. Obviously the one on the right is warmer. I’m not super familiar with the characteristics of the scanner to know what it might be doing to the image. I wonder if a warming filter on the film or a cooling filter on the X-Pro2 would have made them more identical. Very fascinating, thank you for sharing!
Hello Ritchie! H
Have you ever thought about creating some in-production consumer grade film stocks like Kodak Color Plus 200, Kodak ProImage 100, Fujifilm Color 200, and Fujifilm X-Tra Superia 400?
I have this thought to bring the X-Pro2 and Canon A-1 with me on the next trip to Georgia and Souther Europe and to shoot some photos on the two camera side-by-side. After the trip, I’d like to make two photo books ( just for fun), one for those photos taken by a film camera and another for those photos taken by the X-Pro2
I’d very much appreciate it if you could help coming up with any of the above mentioned film stock.
Cheers!!!
Kawin
Many thanks, Ritchie for all your fantastic work on your recipies of film simulations…I´ve tryied a few of them using my already old Fujifilm X100T with very interesting results…
You are welcome!
I have been using Silver Efex Pro in Photoshop but wondered if you have a recipe that adds Silver to Acros or Monochrome in Fuji X Series camera (I have XPRO-3 and X100F).
I’m not sure what you mean. Are you asking about toning?
Yes the silver effect on tining
No. The new cameras (X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4) do have more toning options, but not a metallic color. Maybe this is something Fujifilm might add in the future, who knows?
Are fuji shooters JPG fans or ?
Sure, some are.
Considering the capabilities for Fuji cameras to render film like images, would you consider making a recipe designed for scanning film? I want to start digitizing my film collection, and using my X-T3 would make it much simpler than buying a scanner or sending off my negatives. I’ve tried making a neutral, one-size-fits-all look for scanning in the X-T3, but I can’t seem to get it right. Do you think matching a recipe with a film stock would yield good results? For example, scanning a roll of Kodak Gold with a Kodak Gold recipe?
Thanks for all your hard work!
I’ve never thought of that. Of course, negatives would be a whole different story than slides. I don’t think using a recipe that matches the film (such as Kodak Gold recipe with Kodak Gold film) because it would be adding that look onto a look (I mean, it could produce interesting results maybe). I’m sure there’s a way that could work; I’d really have to think about it (and experiment) to figure it out. I appreciate the suggestion!