Great Salt Lake Evening – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T20 – PRO Neg. Std
PRO Neg. Std is one of the least popular film simulations available on Fujifilm X-Trans cameras, so you might be surprised by the number of different film simulation recipes I created that use it as the base. At first PRO Neg. Std may seem flat and dull. It has the softest tonality of all the film simulation options, and it is one of the least saturated. Fujifilm modeled it after Fujicolor Pro 160 NS film printed on Fujicolor paper. It has a great analog print quality to it that can be quite appealing!
The PRO Neg. Std film simulation was inspired by a portrait film, so it’s no surprise that it is great for skin tones. By adjusting the settings, it can be made to resemble different negative films or produce different analog looks. I particularly appreciate how this film simulation handles shadows. Many of the different color film simulations that Fujifilm offers on their cameras handle shadows similar to reversal film, but not PRO Neg. Std, which has a negative film quality, particularly in the shadows.
Below you will find all of my different film simulation recipes that I have created that use PRO Neg. Std. If you haven’t tried them all, I personally invite you to do so and see which are your favorites! My personal favorites are Superia 800 and Pro 400H, but they each have their own usefulness and charm. Let me know in the comments which recipe you like most!
Even though the different recipes say X100F and X-T20, they are completely compatible with any Fujifilm X-Trans III or newer camera. For example, you don’t have to use the X100F recipes exclusively on the X100F. You can use any of my recipes on any X-Trans III camera.
I Like youre articles and recipes. Today I went to the ssea shore and there was this gold and silver lght. I shot a vew pictures with your Superia 800 recipe (difference: colour +2, white -1, no grain). I think it worked really well. Thank you for this recipe. you can see some pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/gcouonzg3iukzpo/AAB-3Lc3-RTWQoHi2sZ30KD7a?dl=0
I’m glad that you found it useful! Thank you for sharing and thanks for the feedback!
You’re welcome Ritchie. Today the sun was shining, and I photographed some more with this ProNegS/Superia. I think it’s awesome for coast and sun: a lot of contrast. I’ve load the new pictures in the same folder of the Dropbox. See previous comment. Thank you for al your’e good work!
You are welcome! I agree, that recipe seems especially good for coastal photography.
Hi,Ritchie, I am a fan of your work and your recipes, it helps alot, just want tonsay thanks here to you from Malaysia.
Btw, did you shoot raw and post process or shoot JPEG only?
Thank you again,
Jack
Thank you for the comment and kind words! I really appreciate them. For about a year I shot JPEG only, then switched to RAW+JPEG so that I could have the opportunity to reprocess a picture if I wanted to. Even though I use RAW+JPEG, I mostly use the JPEG files as shot.
Thank you for sharing your workflow. Appreciate it. And yes, i do have asimilar habbi as yours. Raw is more of an insurance. Not that i don’t enjoy post processing using software like lightroom or C1.a But most of the time, i enjoyed thr Jpeg output ( your recipe) so much that little to no PP is needed for the look i strive for. Sometimrs just add abit of saturation and do some correction of horizon lines. But most of the time, these can be done of a JPEG with no effects on the IQ what not.
In the case where i want to experiment with other film sim/ needed to push/ pull, theres raw files that come in handy as well.
Wish you a good day, Mr Ritche.
Jack
Thank you for your input! The RAW files make for good insurance and are great for experimenting, just as you said. I very rarely use editing software anymore. If I do need to post process, which I do more often with the XF10 than X-Trans cameras, I usually use Snapseed or RNI Films on my phone. It’s infrequent enough that using an app makes sense. Thank you again!
Hi Thank you Ritchie for your Articles.
I shoot with Fujifilm since 2014 but I am still really intrigue with what we can get with the in camera JPEG engine.
My favourite one is 400H although experiencing with X-Raw Studio I customized it a bit to my taste. Differences:
Shadows +2
Highlights: -1 (or even -2) because it is often blown out with exposure compensation +2/3
Color:+2
WB: only +1 for the reds
It’s because I love bright soft and airy film photos look.
I wonder which exposure metering mode you use? Because for me in some of them with +2/3 of 1 stop compensation I have a lot of blown out areas.
Many thanks
Fred
I typically use matrix metering, although sometimes I will use spot metering. I always look at the first shot to make sure that exposure compensation is good, not over or under exposed, and adjust accordingly. Thank you for your input! I appreciate the feedback.
Is there a way to get the Classic Chrome look with the X Pro 1?
Try using Astia, color -2, highlight +1, shadow +1, white balance shift +2 red and -1 blue. That should get you in the ballpark.
when you say “softest tonality” can i assume you mean the transition of tonal light/dark and also of color? in my world the skintone variations go from neutral to warm,,,occasionally but not often even cool to warm. so does “softest tonality” mean the way the camera picks up these transitions evenly and not abruptly? thx ritch
The tone transitions are most even (not abrupt), although Eterna is probably the winner of this now.