The Obscurity of Light – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Dramatic Monochrome”
A couple of weeks ago when I was discussing the possibility of Fujifilm creating a black-and-white only camera, something that I came to learn by accident is that the Monochrome film simulation is pretty darn good. On X-Trans III & IV cameras, I have always used the Acros film simulation because it is beautiful and has a film-like quality to it. But there’s something about the “old-fashioned” Monochrome film simulation that’s nice, as well. I had never made a Monochrome film simulation for X-Trans III & IV cameras, so I set out to do so.
At first I wasn’t sure exactly what I wanted, so I decided that the best starting point was to revisit the iconic photographs of the great photographers from the 1930’s, ’40’s and ’50’s—people like Ansel Adams, Andre Kertesz, Robert Doisneau, Weegee, Pual Strand, Elliott Erwitt and others. I realized that I was drawn to the high-contrast pictures that these photographers had created. I wanted to create a recipe that mimics that look in-camera. These settings, which I call Dramatic Monochrome, are what resulted from that.
Francis Peak – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Dramatic Monochrome”
For those with X-Trans III sensors, which don’t have the Color Chrome Effect, you’ll get similar results, but it won’t be quite as dramatic. The difference isn’t very big, so don’t worry about it. I would consider using +2 for Sharpness on X-Trans III instead of +3. On X-Trans IV cameras, you could give a +1 toning for a subtle warm look, such as what would happen if you gave a print a quick Sepia bath.
Monochrome (+Y, +R, +G)
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +4
Shadow: +4
Grain: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Toning: 0
Sharpening: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
ISO: Auto up to ISO 12800
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Dramatic Monochrome film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:
Chair Near a Window – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Shadow Ware – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
White Pillow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Santa Fe – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Young Piano Hands – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Clouds Above The Snow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Wasatch Ridge Winter – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Lines In The Snow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Clouds Over The Frosted Hill – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
White Beyond Dark – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Frosted – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Darkness & Light – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
See also: Film Simulation Recipes
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Love it, now need to figure this out on the X100F 🙂
You can! You just don’t have Color Chrome Effect, but that’s not a big deal.
Working hard to keep my custom film settings the same on the xt2 and the. X200f , looking forward to seeing how this one matches up.
Great work, thank you
You are welcome!
Great blackandwhite recipe! Xpro3: added FX Blue Strong and Clarity +3.
LG Thomas
Thank you! I hope to someday try those X-Pro3 adjustments!
Saw monochrome images with the X-Pro1 with the color filter removed and the images were gorgeous compared to a typical B&W/Mono picture. Theres something to be said for monochrome cameras with raw monochrome sensors.
Yes, and even though it’s not for “most people” I do believe that there’s enough interest that Fujifilm should do it.
Thanks for another B&W recipe to try out! Can’t wait to “load this film” into my X-T3 and give it a go.
You will have to let me know what you think!
Great stuff – works a treat on my X-E3!
Awesome!
Thanks for your work! Do the xt30 recipes work on the xt3?
They absolutely do!
Nice. Does your portra 400 recipe for the x100f work on the xt3 as well?
Yeah, it’s completely compatible.
Thanks for a very interesting and useful blog Ritchie. And regarding this Dramatic Monochrome simulation, I used it for a day on my X100V and find it very interesting for strong and dramatic contrast. I’ve tried many of your recipes by the way, and several have become my favorites. They have also inspired me to try out my own ideas and I especially like a B&W with “old looks”. If you wish, I will be happy to send it to you!
I appreciate the feedback and kind words! I’d love to see your recipe, feel free to share.
Here you are Ritchie:
My Fujifilm X100V Vintage Acros Film Simulation Recipe, Inspired by Ritchie Roesch:
Acros (STD)
Monochromatic Color: WC +2, MG +2
Grain: Weak, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect Blue: OFF
White Balance: Auto, Red +2, Blue-2
Dynamic Range: DR200
Tone Curve: Highlight: +1, Shadow: +1
Sharpness: -2
Noise Reduction: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3
Three pictures with this Recipe:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CA7NGb3jtnc/
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBLSUNJH-S0/
Looks great! I look forward to trying it out. Thank you for sharing!
Top top top
J’ai mis 7 “recettes” dont la noir et blanc “dramatique”. Elle est géniale pour les portraits 👍
J’apprécie les commentaires!
Thanks for these! When you say “(+Y, +R, +G)” is that just monochrome standard, or are you saying to pick whatever we like best, or is there a way to select all three? I can only select one at a time on the X-T4.
Pick which one you like best. They’re meant to mimic the use of color filters on b&w film (yellow, red or green), or use the standard film simulation if you don’t want to mimic using a filter.
Got it, thanks!
Loving this look, really reminds me of Ferrania P30
Thanks so much!
Setting up a few custom sims on my XT-3. Looking for a ‘standard’ bw and a ‘moody’ bw. I’m wondering how this recipe would translate to using AcrosR as the base, instead of standard mono, since Acros seems to be an attempt at moody/gritty already? I’m going to give it a try but turn the grain effect to weak or off since Acros has some grain baked in. Wondering if you have any thoughts on that or other suggestion for modifying? Thanks!
Believe it or not, I think Acros is actually going to be slightly less moody. Acros has more subtle toning gradations. It’s a more of a “beautiful” b&w if that makes any sense. Definitely give it a try, though. I’d still add some Grain if you are going for moody. I’d also shoot at higher ISOs if you can, that will help add to the grittiness.
Thanks. I’ll have to plug it in both ways and compare results. I set up a ‘standard’ BW sim and a “dramatic’ BW sim based on the recipes here yesterday and took a few test shots and I really like both. The dramatic recipe is pretty stark compared to standard, so not sure Id be able to tell the diff between the base sim modes.
Awesome! If you post the pictures somewhere, be sure to share.
Will do, was planning a short blog post about how I use sims alongside shooting raw for processing, with a link back here for the recipes! I shoot mostly BW for my own work, but set up some color recipes for other stuff/family images which I tend to use the jpgs for. Really excited to play with the recipes I added from your site. Thanks for all the hard work!
I appreciate your kindness!
In regards the Dramatic Monochrome, I see the recipe but how about the other settings?
Monochrome (+Y, +R, +G) -> DOES IT MEANS THAT I HAVE TO CHOOSE ONE OF THEM, RIGHT?
Dynamic Range: DR200
MONOCHROMATIC COLOR? WC ? MG ?
COLOUR CHROME FX BLUE?
Highlight: +4
Shadow: +4
Grain: Strong LARGE OR SMALL?
WHITE BALANCE?
D RANGE PRIORITY?
CLARITY?
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Toning: 0
Sharpening: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
ISO: Auto up to ISO 12800
Lots of questions here.
You can select Monochrome, Monochrome+Y, Monochrome+R, or Monochrome+G, whichever is most appropriate. This article might help:
https://fujixweekly.com/2019/03/07/understanding-acros-film-simulation-options-on-fujifilm-x-cameras/
The article says “Acros” but just replace that word with “Monochrome” and it’s the same thing.
No Monochromatic Color, unless you want it. The recipe doesn’t call for it.
Color Chrome FX Blue Off. This recipe was created before CCEB was even a thing, and the X-T3 & X-T30 camera, which this recipe was made for, doesn’t have it. Also, CCEB doesn’t affect B&W.
You’ll have to decide yourself if you want the Grain size to be Large or Small. The X-T3 & X-T30, which this recipe is intended for, doesn’t have Grain size as an option.
The White Balance I use is Auto 0R & 0B, but feel free to try something else if you’d like. You might find this article interesting:
https://fujixweekly.com/2018/11/12/using-white-balance-shift-for-black-white/
D-Range Priority Off. You cannot use DR200 and D-Range Priority simultaneously—it’s one or the other—so if a recipe calls for a specific DR setting, it automatically means that D-Range Priority is Off, and if a recipe calls for D-Range Priority, the DR setting will automatically be disabled. It’s not possible to select both.
Set Clarity to 0 (unless you want to try something like +2 or -2). The X-T3 and X-T30, which this recipe was intended for, doesn’t have Clarity as an option.
You can use X-Trans III and X-T3/X-T30 recipes on your “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, but things like Monochromatic Color, Color Chrome FX Blue (plus Color Chrome Effect for X-Trans III recipes), Clarity, and Grain size, are all settings that will have to be resolved.
I hope this helps!
How come i cant se any grain in your images. You use grain effect Strong and iso up to 12800 and still i cant se grain in those images in this article.
Here’s the full-res file of the first image so that you can see the grain:
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49514367492_2ebe943706_6k.jpg
Cool thank you Ritchie. I aprishiate that. The grain is nice. I feel like grain gives images some kind of life or a more organic feeling to it.
Hello. What is the fundamental difference between monochrome and across? And does monochrome work as well with high iso (grain) as across?
Monochrome is Provia with the color removed, while Acros was designed specifically as a B&W film sim. Acros has a little more gentle gradations, and is slightly less punchy than Monochrome. Acros has built-in Grain that’s a little different than the faux Grain options. I think Acros does do better at ultra-high ISOs (12800 and above) than Monochrome. I hope this helps!
I was able to establish that Acros has a slightly stronger micro contrast, which may make it seem sharper. Perhaps this is a consequence of the built-in grain.
More micro-contrast but less overall contrast, if that makes sense. Not sure if that is a byproduct of the built-in grain or not.
Hi great rreading your post
😀