I Will Always Love You – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Fujicolor Pro 400H Overexposed”
Fujifilm introduced Fujicolor Pro 400H in 2004 and it’s been a popular film ever since. Photographers often overexpose this film by as many as four stops. When overexposed, the film turns from a somewhat ordinary high-ISO (that’s what the “H” stands for in the name) portrait film into something almost magical. Colors become vibrant and pastel. The exact look of overexposed Pro 400H varies, depending on how much overexposed, how developed, and how printed or scanned. The effect can range from subtle to pronounced. I have been trying for some time now to create a film simulation recipe that mimics the aesthetic of overexposed Pro 400H, and, despite creating a Fujicolor Pro 400H film simulation recipe already, achieving an overexposed look has eluded me.
I had read that one of the films that was the inspiration for the PRO Neg. Hi film simulation was Pro 400H. I tried and tried using that film simulation, and even PRO Neg. Std and Astia, to get the look that I was after, but I just couldn’t get it right. Yesterday, following some inspiration, as I was playing around with the Provia film simulation, I created a look that I thought might work. It was close! A few adjustments here and there, and this Fujicolor Pro 400H Overexposed film simulation recipe was born, and I spent the afternoon shooting a bunch of exposures with it. I just couldn’t believe that I finally did it!
Green Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Fujicolor Pro 400H Overexposed”
Something that I went back and forth on with this recipe is the shadows. I feel like +4 is too much sometimes, and +3 is too little sometimes. I ended up choosing +4, but I think +3 would be just as acceptable. You might try some shots with +4 and some with +3 and decide which you like better. Perhaps use +4 in low-contrast scenes and +3 in high-contrast scenes. I also debated on Color, settling on +1, which might be too high. You might consider setting Color to 0 if you think it’s too saturated. Even though I created this on my Fujifilm X-T30, it’s fully compatible with all X-Trans III and IV cameras.
Provia
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -2
Shadow: +4
Color: +1
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Grain: Weak
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: 1
White Balance: Auto, +2 Red & +2 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1 2/3 to +2 1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all straight-out-of-camera JPEGs captured using my Fujifilm X-T30 Fujicolor Pro 400H Overexposed film simulation recipe:
Annoyed – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Fujicolor Pro 400H Overexposed”
Happy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Reading – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Markers – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Lego Car – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Ocean of Books – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Suburban Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Neighborhood – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tree Trunk Between Shrubs – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Liquid Obscurity – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Evening Windows – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Closed Umbrella – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Raining In The Pool – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Observing – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Outdoor Mall – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
String of Lights – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Disconnected – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
See also: Film Simulation Recipes
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This is a very unique look. In my mind, I’m thinking of the blue hour,pre-sunrise, and indoor events where a stylized look would be appreciated. The other simulations I’ve used from you I have shot as is. Excuse me, you can laugh but do I also overexpose or do I still meter for a correct exposure? Thanks. I guess I’ll just refer to you as the professor!
You overexpose this recipe by about 2 stops from what might normally be the correct exposure.
So, if I read it correctly, this recipe will also work on a x-h1 right?
Great work on this website. Love the great info you share with us!
So that was THE recipe I was looking for for so long! Since 2014 to be precise ! Thank you so much for sharing 😉
I can’t wait to test it out!.
The only thing I am “afraid” is with DR400 (so at least 800ISO) and exposure compensation at least above +1 is to blow out a big part of the image for outdoor shoot. But I should try before, I am sure the HT -2 will help.
Greetings from France
The -2 Highlight will help keep the highlights from blowing out. You will have to report back if you like it.
Hello, Frederic!
I believe you don’t have to worry, because what actually happens when you set DR400 in an X-camera, is that it silently underexposes the shot to keep the highlights and then, also silently, bumps shadows to match overall brightness.
With this in mind, when you force the camera to overexpose by two stops, you basically even out the amount of light hitting the sensor. But still, the combination given us by Ritchie ensures splendid effects! It’s a kind of magic 😉
Ritchie – chapeau bas! Your knowledge and hard work gives us plenty of joy using our cameras!
Thanks for the precisions Michal !
I only tested with my X70 so far (X-Trans 2 sensor processor) I prefer the results with color at 0 and +1 for shadows (it only go to +2) and decrease the sharpness I find it more organic, filmic.
I will try to report with my X-Trans 3 camera
Cheers
I appreciate the kind words!
With DR400 the reason its only available over iso800 is because it secretly uses iso200, then bumps up the underexposed image digitally, preserving highlights. Presumably something like exposure, curves, highlight controls in Lightroom in a seemless combination.
Maybe not as pristine as a pure 200 shot exposed correctly (but this recipe overexposes anyway) as there is a digital adjustment and potentially some underexposure noise.
I find the DR an important part of some of these film negative looks, because…film has a higher DR in its highlights.
Well, when i have used it sometimes i really can find myself ‘exposing for the shadows’ at the other end of the histogram, or going for no clipping before adding two stops on the exposure dial (i do manual, histogram)
That’s a great explanation, thanks! I appreciate the comment!
Hi Ritchie, I think the results are interesting. Under what conditions and scenes do you think this recipe is useful?
I think it can produce interesting results in a variety of conditions. I was initially thinking outdoor wedding and portraits, but I used it for street, blue hour, architecture, even midday desert landscape, so it can be used in all sorts of situations.
I think the skin tones are a little off; a bit too reddish-pink.
The skin-tones can be a little on the riddish-pink side, for sure. The film could get that way, too, especially when overexposed 3-4 stops. Color set to 0 or -1 will reduce that effect a little.
Wow Ritchie, you’ve been busy. Lots of new film simulations to look at. I’m just catching upon the newest articles, thanks for all your hard work, I know it must take a lot of time to tweak and get these just right.
I have been incredibly busy! I hope you like one or two of the new film simulation recipes.
Hi Ritchie, thanks for another great recipe. The look kinda reminds me of “Hamada Hideaki tone” but it’s not exactly that. Do you think you could simulate the tone in-camera using film simulation? AFAIK he’s shooting film using the either Pro 400H or Kodak Protra 400 to achieve those look.
I think he uses Portra 400 overexposed, but he also shoots a lot of digital (Canon and iPhone) and uses VSCO. It might be possible to recreate this look, I will look into it.
Hi Ritchie, thanks for another great recipe!
Somehow I find that Japanese’s interpretation of the pro 400h film seems to be very different. They tend to be in colder tone, with a blue or green cast on in rather than a more magenta like yours..
What do you think about the difference in the film interpretation? Is it possible to re-create that look using your recipe?
Below are some links on how Japanese’s final outcome on different films.
https://nicostop.nikon-image.com/entry/film/lecture/2019/09/10/1
https://freewheeling.me/tag/pro400h
I’ve heard that Fujifilm’s film sold in Japan is a little different than what’s sold elsewhere. I’ve heard that Fujifilm does this because of skin tones. I’ve also heard that Fujifilm keeps their best films in Japan. I have no idea if any of that is true. It might simply be a difference in how the film is shot, developed and/or printed or scanned. I’ll take a look at that and see what I can come up with.
So, if I read it correctly, this recipe will also work on a x-h1 right?
Great work on this website. Love the great info you share with us!
Yes, it will! I appreciate your kind words.
Yes, it will work on the X-H1! Sorry for the delay in the reply, it slipped through the cracks somehow.