Reeds & Mountain – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1 “Agfa Optima”
The film simulation recipe in this article is my Agfa Optima recipe, which is compatible with X-Trans III & IV cameras, converted for use on my Fujifilm X-T1. While the X-T1 is an X-Trans II camera, you can also use this recipe on X-Trans I and Bayer sensor cameras. Agfa Optima is a color negative film that was around from the mid-1990’s to the mid-2000’s.
Provia
Dynamic Range: DR100
Highlight: -1 (Medium-Low)
Shadow: +1 (Medium-High)
Color: -2 (Low)
Sharpness: 0 (Medium)
Noise Reduction: -2 (Low)
White Balance: Daylight, -3 Red & +1 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 3200
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Agfa Optima recipe on my Fujifilm X-T1:
Eggs in a Bowl – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Take a Picture Pronto – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Fruity Cereal – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Stealth Mode – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Suburban Alleyway – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Windows & Shadows – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Pine Tree & Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Green & Fence – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Rural Metal Fence – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Marshland Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
See also: Film Simulation Recipes
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The other day I saw a side by side of two photos, one Provia and the other Classic Neg, both SOOC. To me it seems that Classic Neg is like a slightly desaturated version of Provia, and with a slightly blue-ish WB shift. Actually, it reminded me a lot of this Agfa Optima recipe.
Classic Negative definitely has more contrast and less saturation than Provia, and with a different color shift. Classic Negative also acts different depending on how its exposed. I can see the resemblance to the Agfa Optima recipe. That’s something I might have to dig deeper into. Thank you for the comment!
Hi,
Firstly, thanks for all your amazing work on these older recipes. I will think I can speak for all X100T users when I say we are very appreciative for the effort.
My question is regarding the available WB slots. I am running out of white balance ‘space’ and was looking to see if I could use the underwater WB preset and apply the above white balance colour shift? I understand the kelvin might be off but is there anything that can be done to compensate for this? My daylight and my custom WB are currently configured for other recipes.
Thanks
Yeah, it’s definitely an issue. I think I will have to create some recipes that use other white balance options.
You can use the custom white balance options instead of AWB, but you have to make a new custom measurement each time the light changes. Or make a custom measurement under normal daylight conditions and use it in place of Daylight (Fujifilm calls it “Fine” on my X-T1 for some reason).
Used “Agfa Optima” recently on my X-T1 but accidently dialed in “Velvia” instead of “Provia”. The result was a bit warmer and perfectly fitting to the current autumn colors. Like it.
Nonetheless, I do not know if it deviates strongly from real Agfa Optima film as I never used that color negative film in the past (only Agfa B/W) but some of Kodak or Fuji.
Sometimes accidents are very happy 😃
Hi Ritchie!
New Fujifilm user here with an old X-T10 just to try the Fuji system and have a more compact “classic/filmic” look camera than my workhorse (A7C with big 2.8 zooms).
I´m not only in love with the ergonomics of this mini-camera, but with the jpg´s that it can create! As someone who learned with a 90´s Pentax and films, your web is a goldmine. I used a lot this real Agfa Film (as well as Kodak Gold) and the first time I tried it in the XT10, instant smile.
Now it´s my standard image option, althoug I add a bit of fine grain in LR later (the X-Trans II can´t do it in camera).
Thanks for your efforts doing this recipes, i´m afraid that i´m getting hooked on the fuji system. If only their tracking capabilities where similar to my A7C…
I appreciate your kindness! 😀
Fujifilm has improved the tracking AF on the latest cameras, but it’s not the same as Sony’s. Personally, I think you’ve got to consider other strategies… I use “S” and not “C”, and even on a camera like the X-T10, with some prefocusing and anticipation, you can have some good success on quickly moving subjects. It just requires a little different approach and a little more practice, but it shouldn’t be a limitation.