Bridge Over Stream – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Portra 400”
This is a brand-new version of my X-T30 Kodak Portra 400 film simulation recipe, designed specifically for the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4. My “old” recipe isn’t, in fact, old, as I published it only one month ago, but already I have improved on it, thanks to Fujifilm’s new tools, and also thanks to Fuji X Weekly reader Thomas Schwab, who helped tremendously refine the recipe to be more accurate to actual Portra 400 film. You see, he captured some pictures with Portra 400 film and made some identical pictures with his X-Pro3. After a few small changes, this new recipe emerged. It’s very similar to the X-T30 Portra 400 recipe, the differences aren’t huge, but it is subtly better in my opinion.
Portra 400 was introduced by Kodak in 1998, and was redesigned in 2006 and again in 2010. As the name implies, it’s intended for portrait photography, but can be used for many other types of photography. It’s similar to Portra 160, but with more contrast, saturation and grain. Believe it or not, ISO 400 was considered “high ISO” by many photographers back in the film days, and Portra 400 was one of the absolute best “high ISO” color films ever made. Like all films, results can vary greatly depending on how it’s shot, developed and printed or scanned, and even which version of the film you’re talking about.
Backlit Forest Leaves – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Portra 400”
This new Portra 400 film simulation recipe requires the use of Clarity, which slows down the camera considerably. Fujifilm suggests shooting RAW and adding Clarity later, but I just use the pause to slow myself down. The use of Clarity also means that this recipe can’t be used on “older” cameras, only the X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4 (as of this writing), but feel free to apply the white balance shift of this recipe to the X-T30 version and see if you like it better.
Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -2
Color: +2
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Clarity: +2
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: Daylight, +3 Red & -5 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this new Kodak Portra 400 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Light Green Leaves – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Sunlight In The Tree – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Forest – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Creek Through The Trees – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Light on the Water – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Creek – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Big Green Leaf – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Sunshine & Tree Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Sunlit – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Stone & Blooms – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Jo Swinging – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Brother & Sister Driving – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Protect & Serve – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Seagull on a Lamp – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Stormy Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
See also: Film Simulation Recipes
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Hey – thank you so much for all your great work on these recipes. I’m in love with my new X-E1 and wish Fuji would revive that sensor. I came across an awesome Interpretation of Portra 400 there which is based on pro neg high (don’t like color chrome – mostly boring). I spend the day trying to mimic that result on the x100v – it is unbelievable how different the base settings need to be if you want to achieve the same results. It comes down to whitebalalance a lot and color saturation. Whereas the xe-1 only needs a – 1 redshift – the x100v needed a +3 redshift (x-e1 is at 6300k, x100v is at 6700) and plus 3 color setting. It’s all about the warmth these newer sensors are missing. Pretty happy with the result though. Have you had similar experiences?
The X-Trans I and X-Trans II sensors (X-Trans II even more than X-Trans I) are warmer than X-Trans III, IV or V. I think that’s why some believe they have some sort of magical quality to them. The adjustments (+/- 2) on X-Trans I & II don’t equate to +/- 2 on X-Trans III and newer. It can be difficult to recreate the results going forward to a newer model from an older one, or vice versa.
In general, PRO Neg. Hi isn’t going to be a good starting point for emulating Kodak Portra 400 film. The color palette is wrong, as it’s more Fujifilm than Kodak. But more important than being “accurate” is whether or not it works for you, so it’s great that it does work well for you—in the end, that’s what’s important.
Thanks for the comment!