Fujifilm X-E4 (X-Trans IV) Film Simulation Recipe: Scanned Superia

Brownie on a Shelf – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Scanned Superia”

After Anders Lindborg shared with me his interesting discovery that D-Range Priority (DR-P) is essentially the same thing as Hypertone on Fujifilm Frontier scanners, I immediately went to work creating a couple film simulation recipes that use D-Range Priority, since I didn’t have any. Like many of you, I thought that DR-P was a feature reserved only for extreme situations, and not for everyday use, but (as it turns out) it doesn’t have to be—DR-P can be utilized all of the time if you want.

What is DR-P? It’s basically a tone curve intended to maximize dynamic range. There are four options: Off, Auto, Weak, and Strong. When DR-P is Off, the camera uses DR (DR100, DR200, DR400) instead, and when DR-P is On (Auto, Weak, or Strong), DR is disabled. When DR-P is On, Highlight and Shadow are “greyed out” so those can’t be adjusted—the curve is built into DR-P. You get what you get. DR-P Weak is similar to using DR400 with both Highlight and Shadow -2, but with a very subtle mid-tone boost. This recipe calls for DR-P Auto, and the camera will usually select DR-P Weak unless there is a bright light source (such as the sun) in the frame, such as the picture below.

Big Grass Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Scanned Superia”

This recipe was inspired by pictures I found that were captured with Fujicolor Superia 100 film scanned with a Frontier SP-3000. Of course, how the film was shot, or even the scanner settings selected, can effect the exact aesthetic of an image. Even the same emulsion captured the same way and scanned on the same scanner can look a little different if the settings on the scanner are different (more on this in an upcoming article). I didn’t spend a lot of time trying to precisely match this recipe to those scans—it was more of a quick attempt, but I liked the results so I didn’t fine-tune it any further. It has a pretty good feel, I think, that produces pleasing results in many circumstances, although it isn’t the best for artificial light, and you might consider using Auto White Balance when not in natural light situations. This recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras.

Classic Negative
Dynamic Range: D-Range Priority Auto
Color: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -3
Clarity: +3
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: Daylight, -2 Red & +3 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Scanned Superia” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:

RADAR Peak – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Colorful Blooms of Summer – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Last Red Rose – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
White Rose of Summer – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Yellow Country Flowers – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Little Yellow Flowers in the Wetlands – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Suburban Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
No Parking Any Time – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Morning Flag – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Succulent Shelf – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4

Find this film simulation recipe and many more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!

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  1. wolverineinnc · September 15, 2021

    Hi Ritchie… Lifelong Nikon shooter here who just sold ALL my Nikon gear and totally dove into Fuji equipment. I purchased a Fuji x100v and loved it, and the results of shooting with your Kodachrome 64 film simulation, so much I decided to go full bore Fuji for *everything*. So I went to MPB.COM and bought a “like new/mint” Fuji X-Pro2 (like its features better than the X-Pro3), four “Excellent” Fuji lenses, and now am *slowlyyyyyyy *learning how to use all this Fuji gear. Naturally I have a stupid question, which is this: I wish to “store” a few of your simulations, and name them for what they are, e.g., Kodachrome II, Kodachrome 64, Tri-X, etc. Do you have an article somewhere, kind of like a “Fuji for dummies” set of guidelines I can read to learn how to do what I want? Right now I just changed my settings for ClassicChrome so that sim is now set up as Kodachrome 64, and no longer Fuji’s ClassicChrome sim. Can you please point me in the right direction to be able to set, name and store *multiple* “Ritchie” simulations on both my Fuji cameras? I’d appreciate it. Thanks so much. Sending you another $10 right now…. Bob

  2. viewpix · September 15, 2021

    WOW Thank you so much, that you provide the recipe so quickly. I can’t wait to try out what is possible with it.

    Cheers Torsten

    • Ritchie Roesch · September 15, 2021

      Awesome! A lot more is coming on this topic, too!

  3. Fujilala · September 15, 2021

    Um, to try the recepies of urs with dr- p on.

  4. Pasha Calabasha · September 16, 2021

    Hey Ritchie, big fan of your film simulations, I recommend them to anyone and everyone because they’re real fun. I might try to emulate this on my X-H1, any tips?? Probably gonna use Classic Chrome to see how it looks

    • Ritchie Roesch · September 18, 2021

      Unfortunately, there’s nothing that can really replace Classic Negative, it’s just so unique. But definitely feel free to try it with Classic Chrome instead, maybe it will still look good.

  5. Fabio · October 2, 2021

    Hi Ritchie, thank you for this recipe.
    Dumb question: my X-E4 won’t show the current shutter speed when set to Auto shutter. This happens only when using this recipe. What am I doing wrong?

    • Ritchie Roesch · October 3, 2021

      That’s strange. Could it be a display setting that is saved into the custom preset? That’s where I’d look first.

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  12. Alexie Kocso Sandor · July 6, 2022

    thank you for te lovely recipes!
    anyone know another recipe that looks like this that could work on xt3?

    • Ritchie Roesch · July 7, 2022

      Your camera doesn’t have Classic Negative so you cannot achieve that look. What you can do is something like this: take a recipe with low-contrast, such as Portra 160, and use D-Range Priority Auto instead of the Dynamic Range setting. I hope this helps!

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