This “Pure Negative” Film Simulation Recipe was created by Thomas Schwab, who has made several recipes published on this website, including Superia Xtra 400, Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled, Urban Vintage Chrome, Kodachrome II, Kodak Portra 800 v2, Kodak Brilliance, Classic Monochrome, B&W Superia, and Monochrome Kodachrome. Thomas has also collaborated on other recipes, playing an important role in getting them right, including Kodak Portra 800, Kodak Ektar 100, Kodachrome 1, Kodak Portra 400, and Kodak T-Max 400. I’m sure I’ve missed a few, and for that I apologize.
Thomas told me that this “Pure Negative” recipe is basically a modification of his X-Trans I Kodachrome II recipe for use on X-Trans IV cameras. Because X-Trans I doesn’t have Classic Chrome, Thomas used the PRO Neg. Std film simulation to emulate a Kodachrome aesthetic as best as possible, and his recipe does a good job of that for the X-Pro1 and X-E1 cameras. There are already several excellent Kodachrome options for X-Trans IV; this recipe isn’t intended to replicate Kodachrome, but instead produce good natural-looking results—perhaps there is a little unintentional Kodachrome 25 resemblance, too. Thank you, Thomas, for creating this recipe and allowing me to share it on Fuji X Weekly!
This Film Simulation Recipe is a great general-purpose option. It’s very versatile, delivering excellent results in a variety of situations. The only modification that I made to Thomas’ recipe is Dynamic Range: he prefers DR-Auto, but I set it to DR200. That’s not a big change, as DR-Auto chooses DR200 whenever there is bright highlights in the frame. Select whichever you prefer—either DR-Auto or DR200 is fine. For the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30 cameras, ignore Grain size and use a 5% CineBloom in lieu of Clarity (or just ignore Clarity)—the results will be similar. For X-Trans III, you’ll additionally have to ignore Color Chrome Effect, since your camera doesn’t have it. This recipe should be fully compatible with the new X-H2s, although I have not tested it to know for certain.
PRO Neg. Std
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +1
Shadow: +2
Color: -4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: +1
Clarity: -2
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -2 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Pure Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
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Fujifilm X-E4 Black Amazon B&H
Fujifilm X-E4 Silver Amazon B&H
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Hi Ritchie, thanks for sharing! Since I always use diffusion filters like Tiffen Black Pro Mist and Tiffen Glimmerglass on my xf 35mmf1.4 and xf 27mm f2.8 wr, would you say it is best then to turn clarity off on my X-Pro3 for this and all the recipes in general? If I understood well, either I use diffusion filters or clarity but not both at the same time? Thanks!
I think it’s ok to use both, especially if you like the results you are getting, but to be “most accurate” to the recipe I’d choose one or the the other (most accurate would be Clarity). If you aren’t worried about being “most accurate” and you like the results that you are getting, don’t be afraid whatsoever to use both. Do what works best for you and your photography.
Ritchie, The turbulent water shot with this recipe is just perfect!
Thanks!
Hi Ritchie.
For the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30 cameras, ignore Grain size and use a 5% CineBloom in lieu of Clarity (or just ignore Clarity)—the results will be similar.
How do I get this 5% CineBloom on my X-T3, and X-T4 if I ignore Clarity?
Thank you for the great sharing as always.
Sincerely,
Ongtk @tkphotosz
https://www.shopmoment.com/cinebloom-diffusion-filters
There are other brands, too, but I personally prefer this one because it doesn’t add a color cast.
The colors are very beautiful! there is quite a gentle coloring that seems to feel like recalling the happy moments of the day in the night, warm but not faded memories.
Very poetic! Well said! 🙂