Fujifilm officially announced the X-T30 II today. This “new” camera is just like the “old” camera (including the X-T30 nameplate on the front… it says “X-T30” and not “X-T30 II”), except for a few key things. The rear screen is higher resolution. The camera has some additional built-in memory. It has (basically) the same firmware as the X-T4, X-S10, and X-E4. Otherwise, the two models are identical.
It is possible that the X-T30 doesn’t have the internal memory, processing power, or heat dispersion capacity to receive this firmware update. It is possible that there is a hardware limitation that prevents it.
It seems that “internal memory” was indeed an issue, although I believe that the memory issue has more to do with the video side of things than still pictures. That’s just my opinion, not anything I have any evidence for. So the X-T30 II firmware can’t just be uploaded onto the X-T30, but a scaled down version, perhaps without the improved video features, certain could, and definitely should! It’s long, long overdue.
Fujifilm, if you happen to read this, please visit the comments section of my previous article. These are your customers, and those are their opinions.
The X-T30 II will be available on October 21, and if you have been thinking about getting an X-T30, you are better off waiting until October and buying the X-T30 II. I assume that the “original” X-T30 will be discontinued and discounted around that time, so perhaps a good deal on that model will be coming soon.
Also announced was the X-T3 WW, which is an X-T3 without a battery charger, and a $100 cheaper price-tag. The X-T3 and X-T3 WW are 100% identical. If you don’t need a battery charger, this might be a good option to save a little money.
I’ve always felt that, for me, a weather sealed camera isn’t essential. It’s certainly a nice feature, but not something I just have to have. Cameras that aren’t weather sealed can handle the elements to an extent, and oftentimes there are easy steps to mitigate the weather conditions (such as an umbrella), so I haven’t found it to be a limiting factor to my photography. Yet, there have been times that having a weather sealed camera has allowed me to “get the shot” when I might not have otherwise.
Fujifilm has a few cameras with weather sealing. The X-T0, X-Pro, and X-H series are all weather sealed, while the X-T00, X-T000, X-A, X-M, XF, X-E, X100, and X00 series (am I missing any?) are not. I’ve owned a few of these non-weather-sealed cameras, and I’ve used them with success in conditions that might warrant weather sealing. Take a look at the pictures below:
Monte Cristo Mountain Snow – Monte Cristo Mountains, UT – Fujifilm X-E1
Out In The Cold – Cedar City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Umbrella Overpass – Edmonds, WA – Fujifilm X100F
Dust In The Wind – Bonneville Salt Flats, UT – Fujifilm X-E1
The photographs above were all captured in conditions where a weather sealed camera would have been nice, but I got along just fine without it. The X-E1, X100F and X-T30, which are the cameras that I used for those pictures, are not weather sealed; despite that, I was able to get the picture that I wanted. I didn’t allow it limit my photography.
A weather sealed camera allows you to photograph with confidence in more extreme conditions, such as cold, rain, snow and dust. While non-weather-sealed cameras might get the job done, a weather sealed camera definitely will. Each time that I pushed the envelope on what my camera was designed to handle, it worked fine, but I worried about it. I hoped that I wasn’t ruining an expensive photographic tool.
There was one situation where I know that if I hadn’t used a weather sealed camera, I would have ruined the camera, or at least would have had to have it serviced. More likely, I wouldn’t have photographed at all, knowing that the camera couldn’t handle it, and I would have missed some great pictures. But I did have a weather sealed camera, and I have the shots that I wanted. Those pictures, which were captured on a windy day at Great Sand Dunes National Park in Colorado using an X-Pro2, are below:
From Dust To Dust – Great Sand Dunes NP, CO – Fujifilm X-Pro2
Sandal – Great Sand Dunes NP, CO – Fujifilm X-Pro2
Passerby – Great Sand Dunes NP, CO – Fujifilm X-Pro2
The conclusion is this: you don’t need a weather sealed camera until you do. Almost always your non-weather-sealed camera will suffice, especially if you take action to mitigate the conditions, but occasionally you might run into a situation where you really do need weather sealed gear. In those circumstances, you’ll either get the shot because of your camera, you’ll get the shot in spite of your camera (and you might find yourself in the market for a new one), or you won’t get the shot because of your camera. I do think those situations are rare for most people, and whether or not you have weather sealed gear is unimportant for most, but it’s sure nice to have it when you need it.
Last week I introduced the Film Simulation Challenge, which is where you pick one film simulation recipe and shoot either 24 or 36 frames before changing settings. It’s kind of like loading your camera with a roll of film, and you are stuck with whatever film you loaded until that roll is completely exposed. This challenge is the digital equivalent of that analog issue. I thought it would be a fun experiment to encourage photographic vision while sharing the joy of Fujifilm X cameras.
For my first attempt at the Film Simulation Challenge, I chose my Kodachrome 64 recipe. I “loaded a roll” of “Kodachrome” into my Fujifilm X-T30, which had a Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens attached to it, and shot 36 exposures at a park in Layton, Utah. I did this in the late morning, and unsurprisingly the light was quite harsh, which wasn’t the best match for this particular film simulation recipe. But I stuck with it, just like I would have done in the film days. I used quite a few of the middle frames attempting hand-held slow-shutter exposures to blur moving water, making a number of tries, and ending up with a few frames that were sharp and a bunch that weren’t. I didn’t capture any spectacular pictures, but sometimes that happens with a roll of film, too. I will try another day in a different light and hopefully get better results.
Is this camera for me? That’s the number one question those searching the web for camera reviews are hoping to find the answer to. Usually you wait until the bottom of the article to find the reviewer’s opinion. To save you time, I’m placing my answer to the question right at the top: the Fujifilm X-T30 is indeed the camera for you! Or, really, any of the X-T00 series, which also include the X-T10 and X-T20. These cameras combine the right design, features, usability, image quality, build quality, size, weight and price to be appealing to anyone, no matter your skill level. This could be a great option for a beginner’s first interchangeable-lens camera, and this could be a great option for a pro’s take-anywhere camera or backup body. This series is the Goldilocks of cameras, and it is no wonder that it’s Fujifilm’s best-selling line. Now that I’ve got that out of the way, let’s move onto the rest of the review.
The Fujifilm X-T30 is a mirrorless interchangeable-lens camera with design inspiration from classic film-era SLRs. It has an APS-C sized 26-megapixel X-Trans IV sensor. The advantage of X-Trans, aside from not being susceptible to moire pattern distortion, is that it contains more green-light sensitive sensor elements (which is where luminosity information comes from) than an equivalent Bayer-pattern sensor with the same pixel count. Because of this, X-Trans has a slightly higher apparent resolution, a larger dynamic range, and better high-ISO performance than a Bayer-pattern sensor. Of course, “slightly” is the key word in that last sentence, but every bit counts, so it’s worth mentioning for those who might not know. X-Trans takes more processing power, and the big challenge that Fujifilm has faced is heat dispersion. This new X-Trans IV sensor, which is back-side illuminated, runs cooler, and that allows Fujifilm to crank up the speed of the camera. Quickness is the advantage the new sensor.
I want to make my point-of-view for this review clear, which is probably a little different than most. I’m an experienced Fujifilm user and a JPEG shooter. That’s the lens from which my opinions are coming through. There are things about the X-T30 that other reviewers might focus on that I won’t, and there are things that I will talk about that might not get much attention from others. You can expect this review to be a little different than many others that you’ll find on the internet. Hopefully this will be useful to some of you, as I suspect there are others with a similar point-of-view as myself.
This last weekend I went to Moab, Utah, and made almost one thousand exposures with the Fujifilm X-T30. I kept about 25% of the pictures. The time it took me to post-process the trip, from reviewing to editing to transferring to storing the images, was less than three hours total. That’s actually quite amazing, and it’s all thanks to Fujifilm’s wonderful in-camera JPEG engine. Before using Fujifilm cameras, I used Sony and Nikon for a little while and shot RAW. With those cameras it would have taken me a minimum of eight hours to finish post-processing that amount of exposures. Five years ago I had a Sigma Merrill camera that would have taken me eight hours to finish only half of the exposures! I’m thrilled with all of the time that I save by using Fujifilm and shooting JPEGs.
Red Mesa – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Red Rock Castles – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
One thing that I have noticed with the X-T30, and I have not seen much discussion on this, is the improved sharpening that the camera is applying to JPEGs. Fujifilm has programmed a better sharpening algorithm into the X-T30 than the X-T20. On X-Trans III cameras, such as the X100F, X-Pro2 and X-T20, all of which I have used, I felt that +2 was the highest Sharpness setting that one should use, and even at +2 there were occasionally artifacts and weird side-effects of over sharpening. Eventually I settled on 0 as my standard Sharpness setting for those cameras. On the X-T30, which has the new X-Trans IV sensor and processor, I can go all the way to +4 Sharpness, and I’m not experiencing artifacts or weird side-effects. Besides that, the amount of sharpening that’s being applied at each setting is slightly more heavy-handed on X-Trans IV than on X-Trans III. For example, at +1, it’s noticeable to my eyes that the X-T30 is applying a slightly stronger amount of sharpening to the file than the X-T20, yet without negative consequence. The outcome is a crisper, more detailed picture. I wonder if this stems from the collaboration between Fujifilm and Phase One.
Between the improved sharpening and the extra 2-megapixels of resolution, JPEGs from the X-T30 appear more crisp, rich and detailed than those from the X-T20. There’s a noticeable difference. I saw it but didn’t say anything about it to my wife (who is the actual owner of the X-T20), and when I showed her some of the pictures that I had captured with the X-T30, she spotted it pretty quickly and commented, “This is more clear than what I get with my camera, like I’m actually there!” The out-of-camera JPEGs from the X-T30 remind me of post-processed RAW files from a Sigma Merrill captured at low ISO, which is saying a lot if you know anything about the Sigma Merrill cameras. I would bet that the JPEGs from the X-T30 can hold their own against post-processed RAW files from older full-frame cameras like the Nikon D610, or even newer full-frame cameras like the Canon 5D IV. I’m not going to do any side-by-side comparisons, but simply state that I believe the X-T30 delivers fantastic JPEGs that go beyond anything from any other APS-C camera (except for the X-T3, which it is equal to since they share the same sensor and processor).
Horse & Girl – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Massive crop from the above photo. I printed this crop and it looks surprisingly good.
So far I have only made a few prints from X-T30 exposures, but I do believe that 24″ x 36″ prints will look great even when viewed up close, and 40″ x 60″ prints will look good at a normal viewing distance but will show a some softness and pixelation when viewed up close. It seems like, if you use ISO 800 or less, set Sharpness to +4, set Noise Reduction to -4, use a sharp prime lens and don’t crop, the sky is the limit for printing sizes. The photographs from the X-T30 look great even when you pixel-peep.
While Fujifilm has clearly improved sharpening on the X-T30, I don’t feel the same about noise reduction, specifically at the higher ISOs. At ISO 3200 and below there’s no difference in noise between the X-T20 and X-T30, but above that there is, and I prefer the X-T20 when it comes to high-ISO color photographs (for black-and-white it doesn’t matter). In fact, I don’t really like ISO 12800 for color images on the X-T30 (which I found usable on the X-T20) as there are blotchy colors that just don’t look good. However, for grainy black-and-white photographs I find that ISO 25600 is good on the X-T30, which I didn’t find usable on the X-T20. My opinion is that high-ISO has worsened by one stop on the X-T30 for color photographs and improved by one stop for black-and-white.
Bolsey Brownie – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – ISO 25600
Church Seats Empty – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – ISO 12800
The X-T30 has several new JPEG features, including D-Range Priority, B&W toning, Eterna Film Simulation and Color Chrome Effect. They are all good tools for better achieving your desired look in-camera. I don’t know if any of them are particularly useful to the RAW shooter, but for the JPEG shooter you might appreciate these new features. I will give a short synopsis of each, but you can click on the links above for a more detailed explanation.
D-Range Priority is essentially a step beyond DR400. It produces a flat image to help combat high contrast scenes. The options are Weak, which might remind you of DR400 with both Shadow and Highlight set to -2, and Strong, which is appropriately titled. In very harsh lighting situations, this allows you to maximize the dynamic range of the sensor for your JPEGs beyond anything Fujifilm has offered before. It works, but it requires the right situation to work well. I’ve actually used it more than I thought I would, but it is definitely an every-once-in-a-while type thing.
Green Tree On Red Cliff – Dead Horse Point SP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – D-Range Priority Weak – captured in harsh midday light.
Clouds Over Canyonlands – Dead Horse Point SP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – toned +1 warm
The ability to tone your black-and-white images, either warm or cool, is a highly welcomed feature. I love it! It’s something I suggested awhile back, and now Fujifilm has included it on the X-T30. This is one of my favorite new features of the camera!
Eterna is the lowest saturated and lowest contrast color film simulation option on the X-T30. It’s the antithesis of Velvia. It has a lovely quality to it, but requires the right subject and light to be effective. I’m looking forward to experimenting more with it.
Eating Crackers – South Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Eterna
North Window Arch – Arches NP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Color Chrome Effect Strong
Color Chrome Effect, which can be enabled for any film simulation, deepens the shade of bright colors so as to retain tonality. It’s intended for highly saturated scenes and pairs well with Velvia. There are two options, Weak and Strong, and they’re both pretty subtle, especially Weak. It’s a neat trick, but it’s not a big difference maker for many photographs.
For those who use camera-made JPEGs, the X-T30 is a better camera than the X-T20. Between the improved sharpening and the new features, I appreciate the results more on this camera than the old model. It’s not a night-and-day difference, but there is indeed a difference! Since the image is whats important, I’m thrilled with the upgrade. Fujifilm already had the best JPEG engine in the business with X-Trans III, and X-Trans IV is even better.
Dead Desert Tree – Moab, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Rock Castles – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
There are, of course, other changes, some of which are improvements and some are not. The focus joystick on the X-T30 is nice sometimes, but so is the D-Pad on the X-T20. I’m still undecided which I prefer, but I’m leaning towards the D-Pad. The best setup is both a joystick and D-Pad, but you’ll have to go with a higher-end model, such as the X-T3, to get that. The location of the Q button, which is now on the thumb grip, is also nice sometimes, and not so nice other times. I have accidentally pushed it more than I can count, but on the flip side it’s easy to find without looking.
What everyone has been talking about regarding the X-T30 is focus speed. It’s fast! It’s much quicker in dim-light situations than the X-T20. Fujifilm has improved focus tracking and facial recognition, as well. The X-T30 is undoubtedly better at auto-focus, but I never found the X-T20 to be lacking in this department. If your subject or style requires super quick auto-focusing, the X-T30 is the camera for you. If not, then the improved auto-focusing is more gee-whiz than anything that’s especially practical.
Perhaps the biggest difference between the X-T30 and X-T20 is video capability and quality. The X-T30 is a highly capable video camera that can be used by serious videographers. I’m not a video guy myself, so this upgrade doesn’t matter much to me, but for those who might use this camera for video, it’s a pretty big deal. If that’s you, you will definitely want to choose the X-T30 over the X-T20. I made a short test video just to demonstrate the quality.
There’s a lot more that I could talk about. I could discuss all of the different menu changes. I could give a rundown of everything on the stat sheet. I could add some graphs that show this or that. However, that’s not my style, so I won’t bore you. I want to give you my impressions of actually using the camera. In real world use, the Fujifilm X-T30 is an impressive little camera. Is it as good as the X-T3? No, but it’s not very far from it, and yet in a smaller, lighter and less expensive package. Is it better than the X-T20? Yes, in most regards, it is better, but is it worth the upgrade? If you already own an X-T20, unless you just need the improved video or auto-focus capabilities, I would not recommend upgrading. Use the money for a new lens or a photographic adventure instead. Are you trying to decide between the X-T20 and X-T30? If you rely on camera-made JPEGs, need super fast auto-focus, or shoot a lot of video, the X-T30 is the camera to get, otherwise save yourself a little money and buy the nearly as good X-T20.
Desert River – Dead Horse Point SP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Water & Stone – Moab, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
To conclude, the Fujifilm X-T30 is a rare Goldilocks camera that anyone could be happy using. It’s not perfect, as no camera is, but it is very good. It has a lot of attractive features and delivers beautiful images. It’s a great example of just how far camera technology has come! The X-T30 has a very reasonable MSRP of $900 for the camera body. I have no doubt that it will be successful for Fujifilm, just as the X-T10 and X-T20 were before it. If you decide to buy the X-T30, I’m sure you’ll be quite happy with it. You can purchase the Fujifilm X-T30 from Amazon by clicking here, which helps to support this website. I hope that you found something in this review that has been useful to your camera purchase decision.
Below are example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using the Fujifilm X-T30.
Balance Rock Evening – Arches NP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Castles To The Sky – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Red Hill – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
River Colors – Moab, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Fresh Neighborhood Snow – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Snowfall In Downtown Park City – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Castle Spire – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Rock Balanced – Arches NP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Monochrome Mesa – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Two Pots – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Collecting Rain – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Piano Wire – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Microwave – Moab, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
It’s Lit – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Storm Beyond The Frozen Lake – Echo Lake, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
White Tree – Moab, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
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I don’t know if you saw these deals on the upcoming Fujifilm X-T30 camera, but I wanted to point them out to you in case you missed them. The body is $900, and you can bundle it with the kit 15-45mm lens for $100 more. But right now, if you pre-order, there are some intriguing prime-lens bundle options available. Instead of a cheap zoom, you could get the X-T30 with the 35mm f/2 for $1,000. Essentially, you get a $400 lens for only $100! You could also get the X-T30 bundled with the 23mm f/2 or the 50mm f/2 for $1,050, which means you are getting a $450 lens for only $150. These are great deals!
If you’ve been considering the X-T30, and perhaps you have no interest in any of these lenses, you could potentially get the bundle deal and sell the lens, and use the profit from the lens sale to make the camera body cost less. In fact, if you go that route, you might be able to get the X-T30 for less than what the X-T20 is currently going for!
I don’t know how long these X-T30 bundle discounts will last. It’s a great bargain if you have been thinking about getting the new camera. If you use my links to buy it, I will get a small payment from Amazon, and you’ll help to support this website. Nobody pays me to write the content that you find on this blog. If you were already going to order this camera through Amazon, I would appreciate it if you used my links to do so. Thank you so much!
Fujifilm just announced the upcoming X-T30. It’s expected to be released in late-March for $900 for the camera body. This camera replaces the X-T20, which was my top recommended Fuji camera. What’s new? What’s improved? Which should you buy? I will attempt to answer those questions by listing five reasons to choose each one. Only you can decide if either of these cameras are right for you, but hopefully I can help add some clarity to your decision.
Besides all-black and silver-and-black, Fujifilm has made a third color option for the X-T30 camera body: grey-and-black. I’m on the fence if I love it or hate it, but if you love it, it’s available on the X-T30.
#3 – New JPEG Features
The X-T30 has a few new features not available on the X-T20, including Color Chrome effect, Eterna film simulation, and color toning of Acros. If you shoot JPEG, these are nice options that Fujifilm has included to help you achieve your desired look in-camera.
#2 – Improved Auto-Focus
The X-T30 has the new X-Trans IV sensor and processor, which produces less heat that in turn allows for quicker operations. The X-T30 is a faster camera than the X-T20, and it’s most prevalent in the improved auto-focus. If you shoot fast moving subjects, the X-T30 will be the better choice.
#1 – Impressive Video
Perhaps the biggest improvements found on the X-T30 are with regards to video. Things like DCI 4K 30fps, H.264 4:2:2 10-bit external, and F-Log make this a better option for video than the X-T20. It’s not quite as good as the X-T3, which is to be expected, but it’s definitely a step up from the camera it is replacing. No doubt, the X-T30 could be used for serious videography.
5 Reasons To Choose The Fujifilm X-T20:
#5 – D-Pad
While some people might prefer the joystick on the X-T30, others will prefer the D-Pad on the X-T20. If that’s you, you might appreciate the X-T20 more. Want both the joystick and D-Pad? You’ll have to get an X-T3 or other high-end model.
#4 – It’s Essentially the Same Camera
Aside from some small changes and improvements, the X-T20 and X-T30 are not much different from each other. The X-T20 has a good auto-focus system and decent video capabilities, and if you don’t need them to be better, there’s not a big advantage to owning the new camera.
#3 – You Have Another X-Trans III Camera
Although still image quality is nearly identical between X-Trans III and X-Trans IV sensors, there are still some very minor differences that might require processing exposures slightly different. If you already have a different X-Trans III camera (say, and X-T2, X-Pro2 or X100F) you might want to choose the X-T20 just to keep post-processing the same.
The X-T30 won’t be released until late-March. It’s not even available yet for pre-order (although it should be soon), and if you don’t pre-order you won’t likely get your hands on one until sometime in April, and, depending on how popular it is, maybe not even until May. The X-T20 is in-stock and could be in your hands within a couple of days.