Fujifilm X-Trans III Recipes

These film simulation recipes are compatible with all Fujifilm X-Trans III sensor cameras, which include the X-Pro2, X100F, X-E3, X-T2, X-T20, and X-H1. A few of the X-T3 and X-T30 X-Trans IV recipes are fully compatible with X-Trans III cameras; however, most are partially compatible, which means that you don’t have every required setting on your camera, so it won’t look exactly the same, but feel free to try anyway. These X-Trans III recipes can be used on X-Trans IV cameras.

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X-Trans III Recipes:

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  1. John Platt · November 1

    To say I love the Kodak Tri-X simulation is an understatement. I have contributed via Paypal, thank you
    posting on Instagram tonight. @johnplattphotos

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · November 2

      Awesome! I’m so glad that you like it, and I appreciate your support. Your portraits are wonderful!


  2. River Uhing · November 28

    Dude I love these recipes. Big fan of your Kodak series.

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Very Nice, looks like its leaning more on the red filter side.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Eelco · January 18

    Are you considering a recipe for the Ilford SFX200? I used to love that film. Would welcome it!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. RICHY · March 11

    Hello, has anyone reported back if these simulations work for the XT200 or other BAYER cameras?

    Liked by 1 person

  6. Hank · March 24

    Can I download full size files of the examples somewhere. I have been looking but have been unable to find them both on the site and in general.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · March 28

      I don’t put up full size pictures because the website would run painfully slow and because people would steal them (happens too frequently, unfortunately).


  7. chi lung cheung · April 27

    Thx so much

    Liked by 1 person

  8. Tylor Kim · 26 Days Ago

    I love all your receipes. Taking pictures with Fuji makes more fun now. I was wondering if you would consider the receipe for Ferrania Solaris FG Plus 100.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · 25 Days Ago

      That’s a great suggestion! Ferrania Solaris FG Plus has some similarities to Classic Negative.


  9. tonyyphoto · 25 Days Ago

    Thank you so much for all of your genius and hard work! I could never figure these out by myself.

    Liked by 1 person

  10. John Zorex · 20 Days Ago

    Thanks so much for this! One question: when using a film simulation recipe, do you shoot in manual mode, or in aperture priority (or something else)? (Given that you sometimes mention exposure compensation, I’m thinking maybe not manual?)

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · 20 Days Ago

      Great question! I most often shoot in Aperture Priority. Sometimes Shutter Priority. Sometimes Manual. For Manual, the exposure compensation is a guide to know how far above or below the meter you should consider shooting. Of course, each exposure should be judged individually. I hope this helps!


  11. First off, I appreciate you taking the time to figure out these recipes. So far I’ve tried Kodachrome II, Pro 400H, Ektar 100, and Classic Chrome and my shadows seem to be getting crushed. I have an X100F and I’ve been using VSCO desktop for years with this camera and other cameras previously owned. The only film simulation I can compare is their Pro 400H, which keeps more detail in the shadows. I also used to shoot a lot of Portra 400 and Ektar 100 in my old Canon AE-1 and I don’t remember the shadows looking so flat. I feel like most, if not all, of the recipes I’ve tried need at least a -1 to the recommended shadow tone setting. Of course, this could all just be my personal preference.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · 13 Days Ago

      Not really knowing exactly what’s happening, I’d recommend adding a little more exposure. That does well to lift the shadows. Of course that’s a tough balancing act because you don’t want to blow out the highlights. It’s perfectly ok to “season to taste” the recipes to your liking, so adjusting the shadows is perfectly fine. Another option is to pull up the shadows using software… the details are there in the JPEGs. That takes a little of the fun out of it, though, but if it works, it works.


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