These film simulation recipes are for Fujifilm X-Trans IV sensor cameras. X-Trans IV can be divided into two categories: X-T3 & X-T30, and X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4, X-S10 & X-E4. The X-T3 & X-T30 cameras don’t have all of the JPEG options that later X-Trans IV models have. All of the X-T3 & X-T30 (as well as X-Trans III) film simulation recipes are compatible with the X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4, X-S10 & X-E4; however, Grain, Toning (for B&W), and Double-Exposure (for those recipes that call for it) are different, so you’ll have to decide for yourself which equivalent settings should be used on your camera.
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X-Trans IV Recipes for X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4 & X-S10:
X-Trans IV Recipes for X-T3 & X-T30:
Note: Kodak Tri-X 400, Kodak T-Max 400, and Verano Tostado recipes are compatible with all X-Trans III & IV cameras, just follow the directions explained in those recipes.
X-Trans III film simulation recipes are compatible with X-Trans IV cameras.
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Have a Ricoh GR series camera? Check out Ritchie’s Ricoh Recipes!
Love the new layout! makes it super easy to find the simulations I’m looking for.
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Thanks so much! I appreciate the input!
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How to I save all these profiles to my X-t30? Amazing thank you !!!!
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You can up to seven. You are very welcome! I’m just glad to be helpful.
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Thanks so much for this, is well designed and easy accesible, so pro.
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I appreciate the feedback! Thank you!
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Can WB setting be saved? When I switch between different settings, I feel I have to manually set WB.
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BTW, Thank you so much for this!
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You are welcome!
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Unfortunately, WB Shift cannot be saved, except for the X-Pro3 and newer cameras.
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You can write the WB settings into the title of your custom settings profile. For example, if you would like to save the custom settings for the Kodak Portra 160 recipe, you can save the title of this profile as “Kodak Portra 160 (WB Daylight +4R -5B)”. You still have to change the WB manually after selecting the custom settings profile, but at least you dont have to check the settings every time on this website, or in the app.
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Thank you for the great suggestion! That’s probably the best workaround, for those cameras that can have custom names for the C1-C7 presets.
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Hi
Just came across this site, and love what you are doing! Thank you .
I have a question though, when I create a sustom film simulation ( and save it in the custom film sim settings) , use it , but then decide I want to use one of the Fuji default film simulations, the settings in the camera created by the custom setting remain, thereby messing up the default Fuji simulations .
How do I switch from let’s say your custom classic slide , to the Fuji film classic chrome quickly without having to go through the entire menu system re-setting the different setting that have been changed by shooting the the custom classic slide.
Am I missing something?
I’m using x-pro 3.
Thanks
James
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Fujifilm cameras used to have a “Base” setting (in addition to the Custom preset settings in the Q menu). But now, you have to assign one of the custom presets to be a base setting, with everything set to 0 (or whatever you want it to be). I hope this helps!
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Yes it does, thank you Richie,
Keep up the good work!
James
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Stunning !
Would you make some for GFX ?
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I would love to! If I ever get my hands on a GFX camera. I have heard that some recipes work well on GFX, but I really don’t know which ones.
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is it possible to get the Superia 100 or Classic Neg. for X-T3?
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I wish! There were rumors for over a year that Fujifilm was going to bring Classic Negative to the X-T3, but it seems like that’s not happening. It’s really a shame!
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how can i get?
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I’m not certain of your question.
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Just found this site. Outstanding!
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Thank you!
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G’day Ritchie, Thank you so much for the work you’ve put in for these recipes, it’s given me a new lease on life ……dramatic I know… but after 50 years, it’s like a new toy for all my bodies. Speaking of which, I noticed in one of your recipe comments about nor being able to change wb options on “older’ cameras – I had the same problem but realized there can be up to 3 wb setting that can be -4r,-2b eg and the one can choose wb1 etc for a particular recipe. It only leaves 3 recipes ready but it’s something.
I’ve “bought” 2 of your recipes so far and will get more and hope people are doing the right thing to help in at least a small way.
Thanks again, Adrian
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Awesome! I’m so glad to read this comment! I’m very glad to be helpful. You suggestion is great! I appreciate you kind words of encouragement and your support!
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Any suggestions for overcast days? I live on NW Oregon coast and can stay a little grey up here.
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I think any of the Superia recipes are good, especially the X-Trans III Superia 800 recipe ( https://fujixweekly.com/2018/02/03/my-fujifilm-x100f-fujicolor-superia-800-film-simulation-recipe-pro-neg-std/ ). Agfa Vista 100 can be good, too, as well as Analog Color, Classic Slide, and Fujicolor 100 Industrial.
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Hey i love your red scale recipe, but i was wondering if it is possible to create a aerochrome simulation for my fuji x s10. I have seen it in phone apps, but would love it for my camera.
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I would love to create an aerochrome recipe. That would be amazing! I’m not sure how possible it is (I’m thinking not likely), but it would be great if I could. Thank you for the suggestion!
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which recipy you recomment for street photography with dep rich shadows while protcting the highlights ?
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It’s always tough to recommend recipes because each person has different tastes. I assume you are asking for color (and not B&W), is this correct?
Kodachrome 64 is my first choice. It will have your deep blacks, but it won’t necessarily protect highlights: https://fujixweekly.com/2020/05/27/my-fujifilm-x100v-kodachrome-64-film-simulation-recipe/
Portra 400 is another option. It won’t have as deep of blacks, but it will better protect highlights: https://fujixweekly.com/2020/06/10/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-kodak-portra-400/
I think this Superia 800 recipe could be great option for you: https://fujixweekly.com/2020/07/27/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-fujicolor-superia-800/
I hope this is helpful!
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Hello Ritchie..
Thank you so much for these amazing film simulation recipes. So could you give me a suggestion, whats top of 7 film simulation recipes for xpro3 based on your experience? Thank you
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So much depends on your style and subject. Color or B&W? My best recommendation is to look at the sample pictures and see what you like best. But, here are 7 that I personally like:
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/05/27/my-fujifilm-x100v-kodachrome-64-film-simulation-recipe/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/12/30/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-kodak-portra-400-v2/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/08/09/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-kodak-ultramax-400/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/12/07/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-superia-premium-400/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/09/28/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-agfa-vista-100/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/07/18/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-the-rockwell-velvia/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/06/18/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-kodak-tri-x-400/
There are so many others that you might like, so please just think of this as a starting point in your search.
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Hi Ritchie, Thanks for taking the time to do this and to share it with everybody. I love the Fuji Reala film simulation.
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You are very welcome! I appreciate the feedback!
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Hi Ritchie,
All the best for 2021 !
I love to shoot in B&W and until now, I did not find the correct config with my FujiX100V.
Is it possible that you try to create a recipe B&W equal to LEICA Q2 MONOCHROM. I am sure it will be very appreciated by the community !
Thanks a lot for your feedback/advice
Regards
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I appreciate the feedback! I’m not real sure exactly what the images from the Leica Q2 Monochrom look like. I’ve never used it myself, and it’s difficult to know on the internet when I’m looking at a sooc picture or software edited picture, or even which of those two options are most desired. It’s my understanding the advantage of the B&W Leica camera is higher resolution/detail, kind of like a Foveon camera without the high-ISO limitation.
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Hello Ritchie,
Wish you all the best in 2021!
And thank you very much for all your efforts!
Any chance to see one day recipe for Ferrania P30? ))
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Thanks so much! I’ll look into it, I appreciate the suggestion!
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Hello Ritchie,
Thanks for the amazing content.
Been wondering, why do you separate between X-T30 and X-S10 recipes. Don’t they have the same sensor?
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Great question! While they have the same sensor, they don’t have the same options. Fujifilm redid some things starting with the X-Pro3, which leaves the X-T3 and X-T30 on an island, in a category by themselves. X-T30 recipes will work on the X-S10 (although, depending on the recipe, there are some decisions you’ll have to make, such as Grain size or B&W Toning, because the options are different), but recipes made for the newer X-Trans IV cameras won’t likely work on the X-T30. Same sensor, different JPEG options. Fujifilm could fix this, though, if they wanted to, and I really hoped that they wanted to, but it doesn’t seem like they do, unfortunately.
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Makes a lot more sense now, many thanks for info!
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You are welcome!
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Hi. Thank you very much for your work and for the iPhone application. What would you say is the Fuji setting to get these kinds of pictures? https://martaperezfotografia.com/ Greetings from Spain.
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I appreciate it! Some of those pictures almost have a Pro Neg Hi feel, and some have a Classic Negative vibe, so it’ll be fun to try. Thanks for your suggestion!
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Hi there Ritchie. This might be a stupid question: I was wondering if I could use the Kodachrome 64 recipe (X trans IV) on my (X trans III XH1) camera? Or would this dramatically change the color output? Can one use the X trans IV recipes on the older sensors?
Thanks you
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It’s not a stupid question, but you can’t. You can use this one, just disregard Color Chrome Effect:
https://fujixweekly.com/2019/08/02/my-fujifilm-x-t30-kodachrome-64-film-simulation-recipe/
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Any suggestions for wedding days? Thanks before
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Is there a resource for sharing settings to the camera X-T30 via the FUJIFILM X Acquire backup? So that I can just download the settings and upload to my camera.
Sorry for my English, I translated by google translate.
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Not that I’m aware of. There could be a resource somewhere on the internet, but I have never looked into it myself. Sorry that I’m not more helpful.
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Thanks for sharing this. You changed the game for jpeg shooters.
Fellow Fuji photographers I encourage you to pay this man $5.00 … he earned it for such a valuable resource.
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I appreciate your feedback and encouragement! I’m happy to be helpful.
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I just love *Colour Negative 400* which is in the X-Trans IV Recipes , could I get almost the same or close enough result with a x-t1 which is X-Trans I ?
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That would be really tough to do, but I will try. The Classic Negative look is tough to mimic. I appreciate the question!
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Just started using the Kodachrome 64 recipe. Outstanding. Each time I try a new recipe I’m convinced it’s the one I’ll use all the time…. this will be the one I use all the time, LOL!
Thank you very much for the work put into these and the site itself. Great work, great help.
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Thanks so much! I used the Kodachrome 64 recipe a whole bunch last week, it’s one of my favorites, too. I appreciate the comment!
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Is it possible to use these without setting each individual thing during RAW conversion in the X-pro 3? I made them into custom settings but I haven’t been able to figure out how to access those when converting! Also, amazing site!
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I appreciate the kind words!
X RAW Studio is the only software I know of where you can do a RAW conversion using these recipes. Otherwise, the different programs–Lightroom, Capture One, etc.–apply their interpretation of some of the JPEG data to the RAW file, but it’s not every setting, and it’s not quite the same.
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This site is so great. But I do wonder about the clarity setting, I had some buffering every time I took a pic and it seems it’s due to clarity setting that needs to be set to 0 to avoid that. Is there any workaround ? I’m using x100v.
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The workaround Fujifilm recommends is to shoot RAW (or RAW+JPEG) and add Clarity when reprocessing the RAW file, either in-camera or with X RAW Studio.
I think if you use a diffusion filter (like Black Pro Mist), that acts like negative Clarity. For recipes that require negative Clarity, you can use a diffusion filter instead.
Otherwise I don’t know of any workaround. I just let the delay slow me down. When I need to shoot faster, I’ll throw the camera into a continuous shooting mode, which disables Clarity, and for those images I just add it in later as recommended by Fujifilm.
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Thanks for the answer, but yeah this seems to add a lot of time in the workflow, or is there a way to bulk apply this parameter in X-RAW ?
Maybe I’ll put clarity in the Q mode so I can disable if need to shoot fast.
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If you shoot in slow burst mode it doesn’t take that long. No loading speed.
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Ich sage einfach mal herzlichen Dank für diese wertvolle Seite. Meine X100V und jetzt auch die X-S10 erleben jetzt eine Vielseitigkeit, die ich nie für möglich gehalten hätte.
Beste Grüße von Wolfgang
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Du bist herzlich Willkommen! Danke für die Rückmeldung!
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Hi Ritchie,
Maybe I am reading the recipes wrong but I am wondering why when you have a recipe for a film, i.e., Kodachrome 64, Kodak Portra 400 or many of the others, you suggest an ISO of Auto, up to 6400? When film was loaded into our cameras we would have to use the ISO of that film i.e. 64, or 400 or 100 whatever it was. There was no Auto for film. What is the rational behind the Auto setting if we are looking for a particular film look. Like I said I may be reading this incorrectly or something. Thank you for any info. By the way you are doing the work of a Wizard and I may not be getting the idea behind you method.
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The rational is that, back in the film days, ISO was a much bigger deal than now, because camera technology has come so far. Back when I shot film, ISO 400 was considered high-ISO. For example, in Fujicolor Pro 400H, the H was Fujifilm’s designation for high-ISO. Many higher-ISO films weren’t especially great, and getting decent results above ISO 1600 was unlikely for color and barely likely for B&W. But with digital, you can get pretty good results at much higher ISOs. I think, for Kodachrome 64, not going above ISO 1600 would likely produce more accurate results, but I find ISO 6400 to still produce decent results. You certainly don’t have to use Auto-ISO if you don’t want to, but the ISO does have to allow for the appropriate DR selection. I hope this makes sense.
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Thank you very much for your quick response. This does make sense and thanks for the explanation. I am going to try using 1600 as the limit for the Kodachrome 64 recipe that I love, to see if I can tell a difference. I would like to be getting the most accurate results as possible with these. Working with Dramatic Monochrome recently and loving the results. Well done there. I just found the Vintage Kodachrome on the sight and I’m excited to try that. Thanks again and all the best to you.
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I’m glad that you like those recipes! Thank you for the encouragement and kind words!
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Hello friend!
Gonna try some of the your settings for X-T30, however, i would like to ask. If you say some setting requires specific DR option, like DR200 or DR400.. what is the reason for it? Does it mean you mean this setting for high contrast scenes, but in some cases it may work well with DR100?
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So the DR settings affect highlights and helps prevent them from clipping. It has a an indirect affect on shadows. Mid-tones are affected, too, but mostly it’s highlights. So DR400 will prevent clipped highlights the most, but it also produces the lowest contrast. DR100 prevents clipped highlights the least, but has the most contrast. The DR settings work hand-in-hand with highlight and shadow and also the film simulation to achieve the desired luminosity curve. But, with that said, some low-contrast scenes might seem flat with certain recipes, and using DR100 instead of DR200 or DR400 can help a little. Or, perhaps, a recipe calls for DR100, but the scene is high contrast, so maybe DR200 or DR400 is more appropriate. It’s good to evaluate each situation on its own and “season to taste” the recipe to make it work for you. I appreciate the comment!
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Thank you for the answer. I kind of thought that the only downside of DR200 and 400 is higher base ISO, now i understand the reasoning a bit better.
WIll you be posting more recipes for X-T3 and X-T30 anytime soon? There are many cool ones for newer cameras based on Classic Negative – shame it’s not available for older cameras.
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It is a shame that Fujifilm has not given the X-T3 and X-T30 Classic Negative. They absolutely could without a huge amount of effort. It’s disappointing.
I just posted a new recipe that you can (if you follow the suggested modifications) use on the X-T3 and X-T30. I do have a few different ones that I’m working on for those cameras, too. Hopefully not much longer now. I literally have at least 15 different recipes that I’m currently working on right now. Most will eventually come out, I think, but some won’t. It all takes time, something that I wish I had more of. I appreciate the comment!
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Hey. Do these film simulations also apply to the x-e4?
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Yes!
The ones towards the bottom that are for the X-T3 and X-T30 aren’t 100% compatible because Fujifilm changed some JPEG settings. Essentially, you’ll have to decide what Grain size you prefer (Small or Large), and, for B&W recipes that require Toning, what Toning is equivalent.
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Hello. Can these film simulations also be used to shoot videos?
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Yes, sort of. Things like Clarity, Grain, and Color Chrome Effect aren’t available in video, but otherwise, yes.
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Hi Ritchie, I recently found this absolute gem of a website. Many thanks for putting everything together!
I apologize if you get this question a lot but I am wondering if I can use the X-Trans IV (and other X-Trans) recipes on my Bayer filter camera? I currently only own the XT100 with the Bayer filter.
Thank you in advance.
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Hi! I appreciate the kind words!
You can’t really use X-Trans III or IV recipes on the Bayer cameras. You can use X-Trans II recipes, but the results will be different. X-Trans I is the closest–it’ll still be a little different, but very similar. Try the X-Trans I & II recipes, and see if you like any of them on the X-T100.
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I’m thinking if we can convince Fujifilm to open the APP API, so that fujixweekly APP can load recipes to camera’s custom settings directly. Furthermore, can save existing camera settings to recipes and exchange through a community.
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That would be amazing! I don’t know how open Fujifilm would be to it, but it would be epic if they did!
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I’m looking for an X-Trans IV film sim that has the vividness of Velvia but the deeper and richer greens that I can get out of my Nikon Z7 images. Any suggestions?
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I’m not very familiar with the Nikon Z7. Can you share some examples?
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Hi Ritchie,
Thanks. I was actually experimenting a bit more with Velvia last night and, when I upped the colour to +4, I was able to approximate the Nikon Vivid picture style so I think I’ll try that setting and see how it works out in the field..
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Have you tried this?
https://fujixweekly.com/2021/02/16/fujifilm-x-t30-x-trans-iv-film-simulation-recipe-velvia-v2/
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No, but thanks! I’ll try it out.
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Thanks a lot for your job!
Are there any special recipes for color portraits in natural sunlight? Or maybe you may recommend some of the above.
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Which camera do you have?
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X-T4
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So much depends on the look that you’re after and the conditions, but I know that some people use these:
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/06/10/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-kodak-portra-400/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/12/30/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-kodak-portra-400-v2/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/06/09/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-fujicolor-superia-100/
https://fujixweekly.com/2021/05/30/fujifilm-x-trans-iv-x-pro3-x100v-x-t4-x-s10-x-e4-film-simulation-recipe-fujicolor-nps-160-pulled/
https://fujixweekly.com/2021/01/04/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-color-negative-400/
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Thank you! I’ll try all of them. It’s distinctly less than 100 🙂
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Sorry, I forgot my wife – she has X-T20 🙂
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Consider these:
https://fujixweekly.com/2018/01/21/my-fujifilm-x100f-pro-neg-hi-film-simulation-recipe-portraits/
https://fujixweekly.com/2021/05/24/a-different-approach-7-new-fujicolor-pro-160ns-film-simulation-recipes-yes-7/
https://fujixweekly.com/2018/08/19/my-fujifilm-x-pro2-kodachrome-ii-film-simulation-recipe/
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/03/16/kodacolor-film-simulation-recipe-part-2/
https://fujixweekly.com/2017/08/27/my-fujifilm-x100f-classic-chrome-film-simulation-recipe/
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At first thank u so much! i want to ask u, can i save for example at classic negative two white balance ?
Or do i have to make setting (exp,shadows…) again every time. p.s sorry for my english 🙂
i just bought xt4
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If I understand your question, you want to have one preset with two different white balance options? I’m not 100% sure what the question is, but maybe I can still answer it anyway.
Your camera has seven custom presets that can be saved: C1-C7. You access these by pressing the Q button and then pressing and holding the Q button until the Edit/Save Custom Settings menu appears (you can also access this on page 3 of the IQ Menu). You can set the settings to whatever you want (for example, program film simulation recipes) and save them for easy access later. Each preset can have just one white balance, so if you want one with Daylight WB and another with Florescent 2 (and all other settings the same), you’d have to have two custom presets. Or, set one of the buttons as a shortcut to White Balance so that you can quickly change it when you need to.
I hope this answers your question. Let me know if it doesn’t.
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i have a xt30. what would be a good recipe for shooting flat artwork(oil paintings) i am using 300W, 3000k ushio halogens. in order to eliminate glare i must use a hoya circular polarizer in conjunction with two sheet polarizers over the lights. thanks
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That’s a great question and one I’m not 100% sure I know the answer to. I would think that you wouldn’t want to use one of these recipes because you’d want something that faithfully reproduces the art, and doesn’t alter the colors and such.
I would suggest:
Pro Neg. Std
DR200
Highlight ? (maybe -1, 0, or +1)
Shadow ? (maybe -1, 0, or +1)
Color 0 (or maybe up to +2)
Color Chrome Effect Off
Sharpness +2
Noise Reduction -4
Grain Off
White Balance ? (Auto might work, but maybe dialing in the Kelvin temperature could prove better?)
I hope this helps in some way. Sorry that I’m not more helpful.
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Hi Ritchie, thank you for all the great work you’ve done with this blog, you created a really nice community and some amazing recipes that brought back the fun into photography for me. I recently bought a X100V camera and started to experiment with some recipes, the Kodak Tri-X 400, Eterna v2 and Bright Summer are three recipes that I don’t see taking out of the camera anytime soon for instance, but I’ve yet failed to find an all rounder recipe that would work for most if not all situations. I tried Kodachrome 64 and Kodak Portra 160 for instance but neither work well in yellow lit scenarios for instance, do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance!
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Maybe a recipe like Kodak Ultramax 400, Kodachrome II, Superia Xtra 400, Fujicolor Negative, Color Negative 400, Nostalgic Negative, or Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled, which use Auto White Balance. See of one of those will work well for you. I appreciate the comment!
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Hi! I love your recipe work, especially the cinetsill 800t recipe. Any chance of you making a Silbersalz 35 inspired filmrecipe?
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Thanks! That’s a great suggestion!
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Hi 🙂
Great website! just purchased the x100v. I really like the porta 400 look. First question is – how dramatic is it to have clarity at 0 to remove the processing delay? Does it affect the image in a negative way enough that its not worth turning off clarity?
Second question is a film noob one, cause maybe i dont know how wb worked back then. It says daylight wb in the recipe, and I dont understand if that should be left as is all the time, because then when i am indoors at night for example everything is waaaay too orange obviously. So maybe you can give a short explanation about how im supposed to handle wb with the porta 400 recipe?
Thank you so much!
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Both are great questions!
Clarity doesn’t have a huge impact, but it does have an impact. A filter like 1/8 or 1/4 Black Pro Mist can replace negative Clarity, but I haven’t found a good replacement for positive Clarity. However, you’ve got to make it work for you, so if Clarity set to 0 is better for your photography, don’t be afraid to do it. Another option, if you shoot RAW+JPEG, is to have Clarity set to 0 and add it in after the fact by reprocessing the RAW file in-camera (or X RAW Studio).
As far as WB, in film days there was Daylight balanced and Tungsten balanced, and that’s it. It was not uncommon to have some warming and cooling filters to adjust the white balance (didn’t call it white balance back then). You could, in theory, do that with the recipes: use warming and cooling filters. But a great aspect of digital photography is that you don’t have to carry those filters anymore. It’s ok to adjust the white balance to make it work for you. Try Auto, or try one of the Fluorescent options or even dialing in a Kelvin number. It won’t be the same as the film, but maybe like using the film with a filter.
I would say that it’s more important to make the recipes work for you than to follow them strictly. I like to say “season to taste”. I hope this helps!
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Thank you for the detailed answer!
I think I will leave clarity at 0 for now, and see how I like the results.
I really like the recipes warmer vibe in daytime, so maybe I will have an outdoor and indoor wb setting that will do the job.
Thanks again 🙂
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I think those strategies should work well for you, and you can tweak them later if necessary. Glad to help!
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Hey! Thanks so much for all the amazing work on the recipes, hugely inspiring!
I’m doing some street photography in London and Lisbon, colour and B&W – please can you recommend some recipes to experiment with on my X100V? Quite different conditions, Lisbon likely to be very sunny and colourful, London a bit more muted. Was thinking about 5 colour presets and 2 B&W.
Open to all thoughts and suggestions! Generally shoot auto-ISO and manual shutter/aperture.
Thanks!
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For B&W, Tri-X 400 is a must. B&W Superia, Ortho Plus 80, and B&W Infrared are a few other fun ones. You could also try Monochrome Kodachrome, Dramatic Monochrome, Agfa Scala, etc.
For color, I’d try Kodachrome 64, Portra 400 v2, maybe Fujicolor Pro 400H, perhaps a Fujicolor option like Superia 100 or Super HG, and (if you’re a Patron on the App) Vintage Color. Others to consider are Portra 800 v2, Kodachrome II, Xpro ’62 (for fun), Vintage Vibes, Positive Film, Ultramax 400.
I hope this helps!
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Thanks so much! Super helpful
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Glad to hear it!
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Just donated Ritchie! – Your blog has transformed my XT30! (I mainly shoot film on old Nikons these days)
Spent ages looking at all the recipes and WB’s. Have adopted the different WB for different recipes approach so that I don’t need to change WB Shift. The end of the name of each recipe has the Exposure Comp. Range for a quick shoot – 1.3-2.3 etc)
Sharing my setup and definitely keen to hear thoughts about possible substitutions;
Mainly urban shots on 50mm F2 or 18mm F2
C1 – Portra 400 “xt30 V2” [Daylight] – XT30 but with V2 WB – Daylight and R+1 / B-6
C2 – Kodachrome 64 [Customer WB 1] – Set up custom measured “Daylight” white Balance
C3 – Kodak Ektar 100 [Auto WB]
C4 – Kodak Vision 3 250D [Fluroscent 1]
C5 – Lomography 100 [Shade]
C6 – Kodacolor II 126 [6300k]
C7 – Kodak Trix 400 [Custom WB 2 + Warm =2] Set up custom measured “Daylight” white Balance
Keep up the awesome work. Cheers
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Awesome! That’s wonderful! Thank you for sharing! Maybe try Fujichrome Sensia 100 (which uses Fluorescent 2)?
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Will definitely check out Sensia 100 – Great idea. I was trying to work out if I could fit a “cooler” temp fuji film into the 7 somewhere
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Hey Ritchie
Again, there is some great work you’re doing here. Thank you.
I think it was on this site that I saw someone asking about getting the look that Alan Schaller gets. I don’t know exactly where I saw it or who it was that gave a recipe that they said was close to that look. I do remember you giving an answer to him explaining Schaller’s use of a Leica and processing his captures. Do you recall that and who it was that asked about it? I would like to get that recipe he gave if I could. Thank you for any help with this.
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I don’t remember exactly where that was posted, but this video is what was shared:
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That’s it. Thank you so very much.
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Thank you mate, the work you did finding these recipes is simply amazing – it will change my approach to photography. I just donated and I’ll make sure to tell all my Fuji-user friends about this website. Keep up the good work!
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Thank you so much, Lorenzo!
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Hi Ritchie, Do you have Kodak Portra 160 recipe? By the way, thank you for your hard work…
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You are welcome!
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/04/03/my-fujifilm-x-t30-kodak-portra-160-film-simulation-recipe/
For newer cameras, simply select Grain size Small.
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Pro Tip: Download the app, where you can sort all the recipes by name 😉
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😀
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Hello
Thanks for this awesome list of film simulations!
I have a question regarding my XT3 settings.
Depending on the film simulation, sometimes I have highlights blowned out. Seems to be related to the preview of the processed image.
If I turn on ‘natural live view’ highlights are not blowned out as a result of real image exposed to the sensor.
>> Isn’t worth using raw only + ‘natural live view’ with any monochrome film simulation (that are meant to not display specific custom settings through the EVF or LCD using the ‘natural live view’), and the applying any saved simulation in Fuji Raw Studio?
That would probably help having a correct exposure, as it seems that sometimes the camera sends an incorrect exposure due to the chosen film simulations?
Thanks for your feedback!
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That’s a strange issue. Do you ever display the histogram? I think it has got to be a case where you think the image is exposed incorrectly because of the screen, so you increase exposure (or you think it is exposed correctly so you don’t decrease it to where it should be). Maybe look at the screen brightness? I don’t think it is a case of the camera meter making an incorrect read, but something leading you to believe the exposure is correct when it isn’t.
I hope the answer is found in here:
https://fujifilm-dsc.com/en/manual/x-t3/menu_setup/screen_set-up/index.html
I think your workaround would certainly work, but seems inconvenient.
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Thanks for your feedback. I watched this video to bring this to your attention: https://youtu.be/0ycqCgEdM2k?t=74
What do you thinks?
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Yeah, so “Natural Live View On” is for if you shoot in RAW and edit in Lightroom or other software, while “Natural Live View Off” is for using recipes and JPEGs. Use the tools in the camera (such as the Histogram and Highlight Clip Warning) to help get a correct exposure.
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