Fujifilm X-Trans IV Recipes

These film simulation recipes are for Fujifilm X-Trans IV sensor cameras. X-Trans IV can be divided into two categories: X-T3 & X-T30, and X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4, X-S10 & X-E4. The X-T3 & X-T30 cameras don’t have all of the JPEG options that later X-Trans IV models have. All of the X-T3 & X-T30 (as well as X-Trans III) film simulation recipes are compatible with the X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4, X-S10 & X-E4; however, Grain, Toning (for B&W), and Double-Exposure (for those recipes that call for it) are different, so you’ll have to decide for yourself which equivalent settings should be used on your camera.

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X-Trans IV Recipes for X100V, X-Pro3, X-T4 & X-S10:

X-Trans IV Recipes for X-T3 & X-T30:

Note: Kodak Tri-X 400, Kodak T-Max 400, and Verano Tostado recipes are compatible with all X-Trans III & IV cameras, just follow the directions explained in those recipes.

X-Trans III film simulation recipes are compatible with X-Trans IV cameras.

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96 comments

  1. Anders Pearson · October 23

    Love the new layout! makes it super easy to find the simulations I’m looking for.

    Liked by 1 person

  2. Stephen Davidson · October 28

    How to I save all these profiles to my X-t30? Amazing thank you !!!!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · October 28

      You can up to seven. You are very welcome! I’m just glad to be helpful.

      Like

  3. Harold · November 5

    Thanks so much for this, is well designed and easy accesible, so pro.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. Muyang Yu · November 8

    Can WB setting be saved? When I switch between different settings, I feel I have to manually set WB.

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Jamesthorpe50@hotmail.com · November 9

    Hi
    Just came across this site, and love what you are doing! Thank you .

    I have a question though, when I create a sustom film simulation ( and save it in the custom film sim settings) , use it , but then decide I want to use one of the Fuji default film simulations, the settings in the camera created by the custom setting remain, thereby messing up the default Fuji simulations .

    How do I switch from let’s say your custom classic slide , to the Fuji film classic chrome quickly without having to go through the entire menu system re-setting the different setting that have been changed by shooting the the custom classic slide.

    Am I missing something?

    I’m using x-pro 3.

    Thanks

    James

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · November 10

      Fujifilm cameras used to have a “Base” setting (in addition to the Custom preset settings in the Q menu). But now, you have to assign one of the custom presets to be a base setting, with everything set to 0 (or whatever you want it to be). I hope this helps!

      Like

      • James · November 10

        Yes it does, thank you Richie,
        Keep up the good work!

        James

        Like

  6. Simon Guillemin · November 12

    Stunning !

    Would you make some for GFX ?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · November 12

      I would love to! If I ever get my hands on a GFX camera. I have heard that some recipes work well on GFX, but I really don’t know which ones.

      Like

  7. Kristinn Snær Agnarsson · November 14

    is it possible to get the Superia 100 or Classic Neg. for X-T3?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · November 16

      I wish! There were rumors for over a year that Fujifilm was going to bring Classic Negative to the X-T3, but it seems like that’s not happening. It’s really a shame!

      Like

  8. Servet · November 16

    how can i get?

    Like

  9. nickhartwp · November 29

    Just found this site. Outstanding!

    Liked by 1 person

  10. imaging23al · December 7

    G’day Ritchie, Thank you so much for the work you’ve put in for these recipes, it’s given me a new lease on life ……dramatic I know… but after 50 years, it’s like a new toy for all my bodies. Speaking of which, I noticed in one of your recipe comments about nor being able to change wb options on “older’ cameras – I had the same problem but realized there can be up to 3 wb setting that can be -4r,-2b eg and the one can choose wb1 etc for a particular recipe. It only leaves 3 recipes ready but it’s something.
    I’ve “bought” 2 of your recipes so far and will get more and hope people are doing the right thing to help in at least a small way.
    Thanks again, Adrian

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · December 7

      Awesome! I’m so glad to read this comment! I’m very glad to be helpful. You suggestion is great! I appreciate you kind words of encouragement and your support!

      Like

  11. Ian Goldspink · December 19

    Any suggestions for overcast days? I live on NW Oregon coast and can stay a little grey up here.

    Liked by 1 person

  12. Vladimir B. · December 28

    Hey i love your red scale recipe, but i was wondering if it is possible to create a aerochrome simulation for my fuji x s10. I have seen it in phone apps, but would love it for my camera.

    Like

    • Ritchie Roesch · December 28

      I would love to create an aerochrome recipe. That would be amazing! I’m not sure how possible it is (I’m thinking not likely), but it would be great if I could. Thank you for the suggestion!

      Like

  13. lakis lambrianides · December 29

    which recipy you recomment for street photography with dep rich shadows while protcting the highlights ?

    Liked by 1 person

  14. Auromi · December 30

    Hello Ritchie..
    Thank you so much for these amazing film simulation recipes. So could you give me a suggestion, whats top of 7 film simulation recipes for xpro3 based on your experience? Thank you

    Liked by 1 person

  15. Karin Lizana · January 3

    Hi Ritchie, Thanks for taking the time to do this and to share it with everybody. I love the Fuji Reala film simulation.

    Liked by 1 person

  16. Herve · January 7

    Hi Ritchie,
    All the best for 2021 !
    I love to shoot in B&W and until now, I did not find the correct config with my FujiX100V.

    Is it possible that you try to create a recipe B&W equal to LEICA Q2 MONOCHROM. I am sure it will be very appreciated by the community !

    Thanks a lot for your feedback/advice

    Regards

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · January 10

      I appreciate the feedback! I’m not real sure exactly what the images from the Leica Q2 Monochrom look like. I’ve never used it myself, and it’s difficult to know on the internet when I’m looking at a sooc picture or software edited picture, or even which of those two options are most desired. It’s my understanding the advantage of the B&W Leica camera is higher resolution/detail, kind of like a Foveon camera without the high-ISO limitation.

      Like

  17. Deda · January 10

    Hello Ritchie,
    Wish you all the best in 2021!
    And thank you very much for all your efforts!
    Any chance to see one day recipe for Ferrania P30? ))

    Like

  18. Jules · January 12

    Hello Ritchie,
    Thanks for the amazing content.
    Been wondering, why do you separate between X-T30 and X-S10 recipes. Don’t they have the same sensor?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · January 12

      Great question! While they have the same sensor, they don’t have the same options. Fujifilm redid some things starting with the X-Pro3, which leaves the X-T3 and X-T30 on an island, in a category by themselves. X-T30 recipes will work on the X-S10 (although, depending on the recipe, there are some decisions you’ll have to make, such as Grain size or B&W Toning, because the options are different), but recipes made for the newer X-Trans IV cameras won’t likely work on the X-T30. Same sensor, different JPEG options. Fujifilm could fix this, though, if they wanted to, and I really hoped that they wanted to, but it doesn’t seem like they do, unfortunately.

      Like

  19. fernando j val · January 13

    Hi. Thank you very much for your work and for the iPhone application. What would you say is the Fuji setting to get these kinds of pictures? https://martaperezfotografia.com/ Greetings from Spain.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · January 14

      I appreciate it! Some of those pictures almost have a Pro Neg Hi feel, and some have a Classic Negative vibe, so it’ll be fun to try. Thanks for your suggestion!

      Like

  20. Stefan du Plessis · January 16

    Hi there Ritchie. This might be a stupid question: I was wondering if I could use the Kodachrome 64 recipe (X trans IV) on my (X trans III XH1) camera? Or would this dramatically change the color output? Can one use the X trans IV recipes on the older sensors?
    Thanks you

    Liked by 1 person

  21. Adit · February 3

    Any suggestions for wedding days? Thanks before

    Like

  22. Andr Predz · February 26

    Is there a resource for sharing settings to the camera X-T30 via the FUJIFILM X Acquire backup? So that I can just download the settings and upload to my camera.
    Sorry for my English, I translated by google translate.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · February 27

      Not that I’m aware of. There could be a resource somewhere on the internet, but I have never looked into it myself. Sorry that I’m not more helpful.

      Like

  23. Mario · March 2

    Thanks for sharing this. You changed the game for jpeg shooters.

    Fellow Fuji photographers I encourage you to pay this man $5.00 … he earned it for such a valuable resource.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · March 2

      I appreciate your feedback and encouragement! I’m happy to be helpful.

      Like

  24. Philippe Luyckx · March 6

    I just love *Colour Negative 400* which is in the X-Trans IV Recipes , could I get almost the same or close enough result with a x-t1 which is X-Trans I ?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · March 7

      That would be really tough to do, but I will try. The Classic Negative look is tough to mimic. I appreciate the question!

      Like

  25. Walter Thomson · March 9

    Just started using the Kodachrome 64 recipe. Outstanding. Each time I try a new recipe I’m convinced it’s the one I’ll use all the time…. this will be the one I use all the time, LOL!
    Thank you very much for the work put into these and the site itself. Great work, great help.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · March 15

      Thanks so much! I used the Kodachrome 64 recipe a whole bunch last week, it’s one of my favorites, too. I appreciate the comment!

      Like

  26. Kevin Buchholz · March 11

    Is it possible to use these without setting each individual thing during RAW conversion in the X-pro 3? I made them into custom settings but I haven’t been able to figure out how to access those when converting! Also, amazing site!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · March 15

      I appreciate the kind words!

      X RAW Studio is the only software I know of where you can do a RAW conversion using these recipes. Otherwise, the different programs–Lightroom, Capture One, etc.–apply their interpretation of some of the JPEG data to the RAW file, but it’s not every setting, and it’s not quite the same.

      Like

  27. Chris · March 15

    This site is so great. But I do wonder about the clarity setting, I had some buffering every time I took a pic and it seems it’s due to clarity setting that needs to be set to 0 to avoid that. Is there any workaround ? I’m using x100v.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · March 15

      The workaround Fujifilm recommends is to shoot RAW (or RAW+JPEG) and add Clarity when reprocessing the RAW file, either in-camera or with X RAW Studio.
      I think if you use a diffusion filter (like Black Pro Mist), that acts like negative Clarity. For recipes that require negative Clarity, you can use a diffusion filter instead.
      Otherwise I don’t know of any workaround. I just let the delay slow me down. When I need to shoot faster, I’ll throw the camera into a continuous shooting mode, which disables Clarity, and for those images I just add it in later as recommended by Fujifilm.

      Like

      • doncristobal33 · March 17

        Thanks for the answer, but yeah this seems to add a lot of time in the workflow, or is there a way to bulk apply this parameter in X-RAW ?
        Maybe I’ll put clarity in the Q mode so I can disable if need to shoot fast.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Ian Goldspink · March 17

        If you shoot in slow burst mode it doesn’t take that long. No loading speed.

        Liked by 1 person

  28. Wolfgang Rücker · March 16

    Ich sage einfach mal herzlichen Dank für diese wertvolle Seite. Meine X100V und jetzt auch die X-S10 erleben jetzt eine Vielseitigkeit, die ich nie für möglich gehalten hätte.

    Beste Grüße von Wolfgang

    Liked by 1 person

  29. Walter · April 1

    Hi Ritchie,
    Maybe I am reading the recipes wrong but I am wondering why when you have a recipe for a film, i.e., Kodachrome 64, Kodak Portra 400 or many of the others, you suggest an ISO of Auto, up to 6400? When film was loaded into our cameras we would have to use the ISO of that film i.e. 64, or 400 or 100 whatever it was. There was no Auto for film. What is the rational behind the Auto setting if we are looking for a particular film look. Like I said I may be reading this incorrectly or something. Thank you for any info. By the way you are doing the work of a Wizard and I may not be getting the idea behind you method.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · April 2

      The rational is that, back in the film days, ISO was a much bigger deal than now, because camera technology has come so far. Back when I shot film, ISO 400 was considered high-ISO. For example, in Fujicolor Pro 400H, the H was Fujifilm’s designation for high-ISO. Many higher-ISO films weren’t especially great, and getting decent results above ISO 1600 was unlikely for color and barely likely for B&W. But with digital, you can get pretty good results at much higher ISOs. I think, for Kodachrome 64, not going above ISO 1600 would likely produce more accurate results, but I find ISO 6400 to still produce decent results. You certainly don’t have to use Auto-ISO if you don’t want to, but the ISO does have to allow for the appropriate DR selection. I hope this makes sense.

      Liked by 1 person

      • Walter · April 2

        Thank you very much for your quick response. This does make sense and thanks for the explanation. I am going to try using 1600 as the limit for the Kodachrome 64 recipe that I love, to see if I can tell a difference. I would like to be getting the most accurate results as possible with these. Working with Dramatic Monochrome recently and loving the results. Well done there. I just found the Vintage Kodachrome on the sight and I’m excited to try that. Thanks again and all the best to you.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Ritchie Roesch · April 3

        I’m glad that you like those recipes! Thank you for the encouragement and kind words!

        Like

  30. b_wel · April 21

    Hello friend!
    Gonna try some of the your settings for X-T30, however, i would like to ask. If you say some setting requires specific DR option, like DR200 or DR400.. what is the reason for it? Does it mean you mean this setting for high contrast scenes, but in some cases it may work well with DR100?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · April 26

      So the DR settings affect highlights and helps prevent them from clipping. It has a an indirect affect on shadows. Mid-tones are affected, too, but mostly it’s highlights. So DR400 will prevent clipped highlights the most, but it also produces the lowest contrast. DR100 prevents clipped highlights the least, but has the most contrast. The DR settings work hand-in-hand with highlight and shadow and also the film simulation to achieve the desired luminosity curve. But, with that said, some low-contrast scenes might seem flat with certain recipes, and using DR100 instead of DR200 or DR400 can help a little. Or, perhaps, a recipe calls for DR100, but the scene is high contrast, so maybe DR200 or DR400 is more appropriate. It’s good to evaluate each situation on its own and “season to taste” the recipe to make it work for you. I appreciate the comment!

      Like

      • b_wel · April 27

        Thank you for the answer. I kind of thought that the only downside of DR200 and 400 is higher base ISO, now i understand the reasoning a bit better.
        WIll you be posting more recipes for X-T3 and X-T30 anytime soon? There are many cool ones for newer cameras based on Classic Negative – shame it’s not available for older cameras.

        Liked by 1 person

      • Ritchie Roesch · April 27

        It is a shame that Fujifilm has not given the X-T3 and X-T30 Classic Negative. They absolutely could without a huge amount of effort. It’s disappointing.
        I just posted a new recipe that you can (if you follow the suggested modifications) use on the X-T3 and X-T30. I do have a few different ones that I’m working on for those cameras, too. Hopefully not much longer now. I literally have at least 15 different recipes that I’m currently working on right now. Most will eventually come out, I think, but some won’t. It all takes time, something that I wish I had more of. I appreciate the comment!

        Like

  31. Sam · May 10

    Hey. Do these film simulations also apply to the x-e4?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · May 11

      Yes!
      The ones towards the bottom that are for the X-T3 and X-T30 aren’t 100% compatible because Fujifilm changed some JPEG settings. Essentially, you’ll have to decide what Grain size you prefer (Small or Large), and, for B&W recipes that require Toning, what Toning is equivalent.

      Like

  32. paul · May 24

    Hello. Can these film simulations also be used to shoot videos?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · May 24

      Yes, sort of. Things like Clarity, Grain, and Color Chrome Effect aren’t available in video, but otherwise, yes.

      Like

  33. Wayne · May 26

    Hi Ritchie, I recently found this absolute gem of a website. Many thanks for putting everything together!
    I apologize if you get this question a lot but I am wondering if I can use the X-Trans IV (and other X-Trans) recipes on my Bayer filter camera? I currently only own the XT100 with the Bayer filter.
    Thank you in advance.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · May 29

      Hi! I appreciate the kind words!

      You can’t really use X-Trans III or IV recipes on the Bayer cameras. You can use X-Trans II recipes, but the results will be different. X-Trans I is the closest–it’ll still be a little different, but very similar. Try the X-Trans I & II recipes, and see if you like any of them on the X-T100.

      Like

  34. bzhangphoto · May 29

    I’m thinking if we can convince Fujifilm to open the APP API, so that fujixweekly APP can load recipes to camera’s custom settings directly. Furthermore, can save existing camera settings to recipes and exchange through a community.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · May 29

      That would be amazing! I don’t know how open Fujifilm would be to it, but it would be epic if they did!

      Like

  35. Doug Hamilton · June 6

    I’m looking for an X-Trans IV film sim that has the vividness of Velvia but the deeper and richer greens that I can get out of my Nikon Z7 images. Any suggestions?

    Liked by 1 person

  36. Alexander Tvorogov · 29 Days Ago

    Thanks a lot for your job!
    Are there any special recipes for color portraits in natural sunlight? Or maybe you may recommend some of the above.

    Liked by 1 person

  37. Sandrix · 17 Days Ago

    At first thank u so much! i want to ask u, can i save for example at classic negative two white balance ?
    Or do i have to make setting (exp,shadows…) again every time. p.s sorry for my english 🙂
    i just bought xt4

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · 16 Days Ago

      If I understand your question, you want to have one preset with two different white balance options? I’m not 100% sure what the question is, but maybe I can still answer it anyway.
      Your camera has seven custom presets that can be saved: C1-C7. You access these by pressing the Q button and then pressing and holding the Q button until the Edit/Save Custom Settings menu appears (you can also access this on page 3 of the IQ Menu). You can set the settings to whatever you want (for example, program film simulation recipes) and save them for easy access later. Each preset can have just one white balance, so if you want one with Daylight WB and another with Florescent 2 (and all other settings the same), you’d have to have two custom presets. Or, set one of the buttons as a shortcut to White Balance so that you can quickly change it when you need to.
      I hope this answers your question. Let me know if it doesn’t.

      Like

  38. milt ko · 14 Days Ago

    i have a xt30. what would be a good recipe for shooting flat artwork(oil paintings) i am using 300W, 3000k ushio halogens. in order to eliminate glare i must use a hoya circular polarizer in conjunction with two sheet polarizers over the lights. thanks

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · 12 Days Ago

      That’s a great question and one I’m not 100% sure I know the answer to. I would think that you wouldn’t want to use one of these recipes because you’d want something that faithfully reproduces the art, and doesn’t alter the colors and such.

      I would suggest:
      Pro Neg. Std
      DR200
      Highlight ? (maybe -1, 0, or +1)
      Shadow ? (maybe -1, 0, or +1)
      Color 0 (or maybe up to +2)
      Color Chrome Effect Off
      Sharpness +2
      Noise Reduction -4
      Grain Off
      White Balance ? (Auto might work, but maybe dialing in the Kelvin temperature could prove better?)

      I hope this helps in some way. Sorry that I’m not more helpful.

      Like

  39. Leonardo Amorim · 2 Days Ago

    Hi Ritchie, thank you for all the great work you’ve done with this blog, you created a really nice community and some amazing recipes that brought back the fun into photography for me. I recently bought a X100V camera and started to experiment with some recipes, the Kodak Tri-X 400, Eterna v2 and Bright Summer are three recipes that I don’t see taking out of the camera anytime soon for instance, but I’ve yet failed to find an all rounder recipe that would work for most if not all situations. I tried Kodachrome 64 and Kodak Portra 160 for instance but neither work well in yellow lit scenarios for instance, do you have any suggestions? Thanks in advance!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · 15 Hours Ago

      Maybe a recipe like Kodak Ultramax 400, Kodachrome II, Superia Xtra 400, Fujicolor Negative, Color Negative 400, Nostalgic Negative, or Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled, which use Auto White Balance. See of one of those will work well for you. I appreciate the comment!

      Like

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