About (Typical) Exposure Compensation

I wanted to give a real quick word about the Exposure Compensation found within each Fuji X Weekly Recipe. I get questions about this fairly regularly, and there seems to be some confusion. Let me give a short explanation of what is meant when a Recipe says (for example) Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically).

The “typical exposure compensation” provided with each Recipe is intended to be a starting point and nothing more. It was never meant to be a rule, only general directions. For some recipes it’s a little more critical than others. For example, Vintage Kodachrome really does need a little underexposure in order to look right; conversely, Bright Kodak really does need a little overexposure to render correctly. But for the most part, this isn’t a critical aspect of a Recipe. It’s simply intended to give a little direction for those unsure.

One question that I get sometimes is: what about those who shoot in all-manual, and don’t use the Exposure Compensation Dial? Well, instead of “exposure compensation”, it’s just exposure. In other words, simply increase or decrease the exposure suggested by the meter by whatever the Recipe says. If your meter says (for example) f/4, 1/250, and ISO 400, and the Recipe says +1 exposure, simply use f/2.8 instead of f/4, or select 1/125 instead of 1/250, or choose ISO 800 instead of ISO 400 (choose one, not all three).

Another question that I get is: how do I program Exposure Compensation into my camera? There are some models that can save an exposure compensation within each Custom Setting preset (it won’t save a range—like +1/3 to +1—but it can save one, such as +2/3); however, most Fujifilm cameras cannot do that. For the majority of cameras, Exposure Compensation is a manual process done by turning the Exposure Compensation Dial on the top of the camera.

Each time you activate the shutter, the appropriate exposure for each scene should be judged individually. Even though a Recipe might say Exposure Compensation +2/3 to +1 (typically), perhaps for the unique lighting scenario in front of you, maybe -1/3 is most appropriate. Aside from that, we each have our own tastes and styles, and maybe for you, a slightly brighter or darker image is better. In other words, don’t take the typical exposure compensation values of a Recipe too seriously. It’s only meant to help you go in the right direction; however, each situation should be judged for what it is, which might be different each time.

Which brings me to two Recipes specifically: Reggie’s Portra and Reggie’s Superia. For Reggie’s Portra, I had listed +1/3 to +1 as the typical exposure compensation range. For Reggie’s Superia, I had listed it as +1/3 to +2/3. But Reggie Ballesteros—the creator of those two Recipes—never gave them, nor intended for them to have, any suggested exposures. The exposure for each picture should be judged individually. At his request, I removed the suggested exposure compensation range. Reggie is not wrong in this assessment, and it’s for a similar reason that I did not include a suggested exposure range for the Video Recipes.

I never intended for the Exposure Compensation field of Fujifilm Recipes to be so confusing. I hope this clears it up a little for those who may have struggled with it. I never intended for it to be a rule, only a rough starting point for those unsure what the exposure should be. If it’s not helpful to you, feel free to ignore it.

Reggie’s Portra in X-Trans V Cameras

A Girl and Her Horse – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 – Reggie’s Portra

It’s been interesting to watch Reggie’s Portra Recipe grow in popularity over the years. It was created by Reggie Ballesteros (websiteYouTubeInstagram), and I published it in the summer of 2022 with his permission. I’m not sure where it ranked in 2022, but it didn’t crack the Top 10. In 2023 it was the 9th most popular. It climbed to #3 in 2024. This year, Reggie’s Portra is the number one most popular Film Simulation Recipe on Fuji X Weekly, just edging out Kodachrome 64, which was the long-time reigning champion.

A few days ago, Reggie posted a video on YouTube explaining what changes, if any, he has made to the Recipe for use in 2025. When it was made, Reggie’s Portra was for X-Trans IV cameras, but now we’re well into the fifth-generation. So what adjustments did he make? I’ve included the video below, so that you can watch it for yourself.

Not trying to give away the answer, but the short of it is that Reggie doesn’t adjust anything. He uses the same exact Reggie’s Portra settings on fifth-generation models as he did on fourth-generation X-series cameras. He doesn’t make any adjustments whatsoever. The only change is the diffusion filter that he often uses.

On the Fuji X Weekly App, I’ve only included Reggie’s Portra as compatible with X-Trans IV models, specifically the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II (as well as the GFX100S). I didn’t include fifth-generation cameras (X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III, as well as GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF) because, on those cameras, there are some aesthetic differences—the largest being how deeply the color blue is rendered on certain film simulations, including Classic Chrome. It’s quite similar, but not identical; however, there is a simple fix to get them to be more similar: reduce Color Chrome FX Blue by one.

Jon Dressed Up – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 – Reggie’s Portra – by Amanda Roesch

The difference between Color Chrome FX Blue Weak and Off is pretty subtle. If you’re not comparing photos side-by-side, you probably won’t even notice (even when directly comparing, you still might not see the difference immediately). It’s honestly not a big deal, but, if you’re trying to get Reggie’s Portra to most closely match the X-Trans IV results on a fifth-generation camera, then adjusting Color Chrome FX Blue from Weak to Off will do that. This is an adjustment that I make personally, and one that I recommend; however, there’s nothing wrong with not making that small change. Feel free to set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak (as called for in the Recipe and as Reggie himself does it) or Off (as I do) on the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III cameras, as well as the GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF. Either way works.

People have asked me why I haven’t updated Reggie’s Portra in the App for X-Trans V cameras, and the answer is simple: it’s not my Recipe to make a change to. It belongs to Reggie Ballesteros, and I certainly didn’t want to step on his toes by modifying it. Now that he has clarified how he uses it on fifth-generation cameras, I have updated the App to reflect that. It now shows in the Fuji X Weekly App as compatible with the latest cameras. It won’t render exactly the same as on X-Trans IV, but pretty similar—not enough of a difference to be concerned about (only very subtly divergent). I want to close this out by giving a shoutout to Reggie. His Recipe is great—both my wife and I use it ourselves. It’s a real honor to have it available to you on Fuji X Weekly. If you’ve never tried it, well, it’s almost a right of passage at this point, so be sure to program it into your camera today.

Dodge – Boulder, CO – Fujifilm X100VI – Reggie’s Portra

Five Fantastic Film Simulation Recipes that are Versatile

Tattoo & Turkish Pizza – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Reala Ace Recipe

Color film almost always is either Daylight balanced or Tungsten balanced. The majority of emulsions are Daylight balanced. Use film intended for sunny light in the daytime, and use film intended for artificial light at night. If the light condition is something else, color correction filters can be used to achieve a correct color cast.

Film Simulation Recipes are often quite similar, and many are meant for use during daylight hours or (less commonly) at night. I get asked sometimes if there are good Recipes that can be used anytime, no matter the light. I think it’s a great strategy to have at least one versatile option programmed into your Custom Presets ready to go. It may or may not be your favorite Recipe, but you know it’s going to deliver good results no matter the situation.

There are actually quite a few of these types of Recipes. The easiest way to find them is, if you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, is to Filter by White Balance in the App, and look for Auto White Balance (or Auto White Priority) Recipes. Some are more all-purpose than others, but all of those will be at least somewhat versatile. Even some Recipes that are don’t use Auto White Balance can be surprisingly capable in a variety of light situations—just because it doesn’t use AWB doesn’t mean that it can only be used in one scenario—but those that do use Auto are going to be more so.

Night Snakes – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2

Below I have five personal picks for versatile Film Simulation Recipes. These are options that I know from my own use are going to be good for when the light condition is uncertain or changing. These are fantastic all-purpose Recipes that you should considered having at-the-ready in your C1-C7 (or C1-C4 if you have an X-S camera) Custom Presets. I like to have at least one programmed, just in case I need it.

Everyday Astia is an X-Trans III plus X-T3 and X-T30 Recipe; to use it on newer X-Trans IV cameras, set Grain size to Small, Color Chrome Effect and Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and Clarity to 0. Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled is my go-to Recipe for indoor artificial light (including a wedding reception); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak. Fujicolor Super HG v2 has both an X-Trans IV version and an X-Trans V. Reggie’s Portra is a very popular for X-Trans IV, to use it on X-Trans V set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off. Reala Ace, which is for X-Trans V, is pretty new but currently getting a lot of buzz—join Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry and myself this coming Thursday (November 2nd) as we discuss the Reala Ace Film Simulation Recipe!