The Fujifilm X-T4 ES is an ordinary X-T4 but without the IR filter—it’s actually full-spectrum. Fujifilm has produced several IR cameras in the past, but the X-T4 ES is the first that they made available to the general public. Despite no fanfare, the camera sold-out quickly. Hopefully Fujifilm will produce and sell some more copies of the X-T4 ES (or another similar model), because I’m certain there is demand for such a camera.
While I’ve only had my Fujifilm X-T4 ES for a few days now, I’ve been busily photographing with it any chance that I get. Already I’ve made some wonderful discoveries that I cannot wait to share with you in the coming weeks and months. Capturing the invisible light spectrum is extremely fun and rewarding because it transforms an ordinary scene into something truly extraordinary. The world becomes a fanciful place filled with unexpected colors.
Common advice found everywhere on the internet is that you need some specific infrared filters (which are often expensive), and most likely you will need to significantly edit the RAW files, which likely includes color channel swaps. With a couple exceptions, there’s not a good way to get good straight-out-of-camera results. I’m happy to report that that is not true. You will (for the most part) need some filters, but probably not the ones you’ve been told that you need. And you can get excellent results straight-out-of-camera, no editing needed.
The pictures below demonstrate several different looks that I’ve been able to achieve right out of the Fujifilm X-T4 ES. They’re unedited JPEGs (other than some cropping and straightening). Capturing striking pictures like these on a full-spectrum Fujifilm camera is very easy. You can expect some Film Simulation Recipes for infrared photography to come soon. I haven’t named the Recipes yet (or even finalized them… they still might be tweaked), so I’ve sorted them by prominent color.
Fujifilm quietly released a special edition of the Fujifilm X-T4, and nobody noticed. Specifically, it’s the X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”), which is a full-spectrum infrared camera. Digital camera sensors are sensitive to light outside of what humans can see, and a filter is added to the top of the sensor to block those wavelengths so that you get normal-looking colors. The Fujifilm X-T4 ES is an ordinary X-T4, just without the infrared filter over the sensor, allowing the camera to capture invisible light, which dramatically transforms an ordinary scene into something dreamlike.
I’ve wanted to try infrared photography for decades. A long time ago I shot one roll (I believe it was Ektachrome EIR, but I don’t remember for certain); however, none of the frames turned out—mostly because I really didn’t know what I was doing way back then. More recently, I learned that many Fujifilm cameras have some IR sensitivity, so I made several infrared photographs with a non-converted camera; however, that was only a tease.
The problem with modern infrared photography is that (with a few exceptions) it requires you to ship out your old gear to have an expensive and invasive procedure performed in order to remove the IR filter. There are a couple of places that will do it, and at a few different times I strongly considered sending out my old X-T1 to be converted to full-spectrum. You can also buy one that’s already done, but it will either be a used model with a roughly $500 premium, or a new model with that same premium and without a warranty. Two years ago I suggested that Fujifilm should offer an IR camera, and now they have, so I bought it!
The Fujifilm X-T4 ES is not the first infrared camera made by Fujifilm. The first was the S3 Pro UVIR in 2006, followed by the IS-1 (infrared version of the FinePix S9100) in 2007, then X-T1 IR in 2015, then GFX100 IR in 2020, and finally the X-T4 ES in 2024. However, the X-T4 ES is the first made available to the general public, as the others were specifically for “forensic, scientific, and cultural preservation applications.” Fujifilm very quietly released the X-T4 ES only on their website and with almost no promotion. Nobody even noticed it! Well, almost nobody—the camera was sold out within about a week. I’m not sure how many copies were produced—whatever the number, they were gone very quickly. I think it goes to show that there is a demand for such a camera, and Fujifilm should do something similar soon, but have more units available for purchase.
Yesterday a Fujifilm X-T4 ES arrived at my doorstep. I’m very underprepared, and excitedly waiting for some infrared filters to arrive in the mail (you need various filters to control the light to achieve different outcomes) within the coming week; however, I was surprised to learn that my old color filters for B&W film photography work for infrared. Also, unfiltered full-spectrum pictures can be quite interesting, too. I have so much to learn, and a ton of experiments to do, but so far I’m thrilled and amazed by the results—there’s a ton of potential!
I’ve only captured a small number of photographs with the new camera, and just right around the house—nothing even remotely series. The general rule of thumb that I have seen online is that IR pictures require significant editing (including color channel swaps) to get good results, particularly for color images. Of course—you know me—I’m interested in straight-out-of-camera pictures that don’t require editing, so my goal is to create Film Simulation Recipes for use with the full-spectrum Fujifilm X-T4 ES. I have a long ways to go, so it will likely be awhile before I publish anything. With that said, the pictures below are all unedited camera-made JPEGs that I’ve captured with my Fujifilm X-T4 ES, so maybe it won’t take so long afterall.
A straight-out-of-camera B&W IR picture from my Fujifilm X-E4
I’ve had a fascination with infrared photography for a very long time. Using light beyond the visible spectrum to create pictures often produces unusual results—an ordinary scene can become extraordinary with infrared photography. While I’ve been interested in this type of photography for awhile, I’ve not experimented much with it. Many years ago I shot a roll of IR film, but it didn’t turn out very well; that’s mostly my entire IR experience. I’m an infrared novice.
Even though digital cameras have a filter to block infrared light, many cameras are still IR sensitive. You can test your camera by pointing a TV remote (which works via infrared light) at it. When you press a button on the remote, if your camera is IR sensitive, you’ll see the infrared light in the LCD or electronic viewfinder. It turns out that my Fujifilm X-E4 is indeed IR sensitive (I believe that many Fujifilm cameras are). A few years ago I experimented using a non-IR converted X-E4 with a 720nm IR filter, and I indeed got some infrared pictures.
The big problem with IR photography, of course, is that—at least for color pictures—it requires significant editing, including swapping color channels. If you are a JPEG photographer who doesn’t want to hassle with all that, your options are quite limited. Black-and-white IR is a completely different story; you can get dramatic results out-of-camera without much trouble. For color, either you’ve got to be happy with a red picture, or you’ve got to edit. If you have a full-spectrum camera, there is one option that doesn’t require editing, but it does require that the camera be full-spectrum and not just IR converted.
SOOC JPEG from my Fujifilm X-E4 using a 720nm IR filter.
Same picture after a crude R/B color channel swap and a quick edit.
Anyway, I’m writing all of this because I told you that I’d update you regarding the Fujifilm X-T4 ES (Extended Spectrum) camera that I ordered from the Fujifilm website. Right in the middle of my move, I received an email from Fujifilm (the “monthly content roundup” email that many of you might also receive), and towards the bottom of it was an add for the Fujifilm X-T4 ES. “Look into the infrared extended spectrum and document the results in beautiful detail with this specialist version of the popular X-T4.”
There was a link in the email to the official Fujifilm online store where the X-T4 ES was listed with very little information about what it is exactly. Even though I did not know much about the specifics of its IR capabilities, I decided to order the camera anyway. The link no longer works (and hasn’t for a week-and-a-half), and the X-T4 ES can no longer be found on the website. I assumed that either the listing was a mistake, or it was sold out quickly.
Then today (two weeks after ordering) I received an email stating that the camera has shipped. Apparently the Fujifilm X-T4 ES has traversed from New Jersey to Tennessee, and just departed Memphis for Arizona within the last few minutes. It’s supposed to arrive at my door on Monday. Yea!
I searched the internet, and found very little information about the Fujifilm X-T4 ES. It was briefly listed at B&H (apparently mistakenly) back in February of last year. Fujifilm has made two other IR models—the X-T1 and GFX100—but those were specifically for “forensic, scientific, and cultural preservation applications, and will not be made available to general customers for personal use.” But the X-T4 ES was made available to the general public, just in a very limited quantity and without much fanfare. I’m not sure what “extended spectrum” even means, so that’s something I look forward to finding out.
It won’t be much longer before I’m capturing infrared pictures on a dedicated Fujifilm IR camera, but in the meantime, I have a lot of questions and very few answers. Once I have the Fujifilm X-T4 ES in my hands, I’ll be able to tell you a lot more about it. Stay tuned!
A straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph captured with a Fujifilm X-E4.
I’ve had a fascination with infrared photography for a very long time. Using light beyond the visible spectrum to create pictures often produces unusual results—an ordinary scene can become extraordinary with infrared photography. While I’ve been interested in this type of photography for awhile, I’ve not experimented much with it. Many years ago I shot a roll of IR film, but it didn’t turn out very well; up until these experiments, that was my entire IR experience. I’m an infrared novice.
A little more than a year ago I purchased a Fujifilm X-T1 with the intentions of doing a full-spectrum conversion. Digital camera sensors are sensitive to light beyond the visible spectrum, so manufacturers put a filter over the sensor to block that extra light. There are a couple of companies that will remove the filter, but the process isn’t cheap. I’ve yet to send off my X-T1 to get a full-spectrum conversion, but I still hope to do so someday.
Even though digital cameras have a filter to block infrared light, many cameras are still IR sensitive. You can test your camera by pointing a TV remote (which works via infrared light) at it. When you press a button on the remote, if your camera is IR sensitive, you’ll see the infrared light in the LCD or electronic viewfinder. It turns out that my new Fujifilm X-E4 is indeed IR sensitive!
I didn’t want to spend a lot of money on this experiment, so I purchased a Fotga IR720 filter on Amazon for $20. The number corresponds to light wavelength. Visible light falls between 400nm and 700nm. Ultraviolet light is below 400nm, and infrared light is beyond 700nm. The filter number—in this case 720—refers to the light cutoff point. In other words, the IR720 filter blocks light below 720nm, and allows light 720nm and above to pass through. Because this filter blocks visible light, it allows a heck-of-a-lot less light to reach the sensor, which means you will be using larger apertures, higher ISOs, and/or slower shutter speeds—a tripod is helpful tool.
Another consideration is the lens. Many lenses have IR hotspots, which makes them not especially great for infrared photography. Thankfully, there’s a large database that shows which lenses are good and which ones aren’t. It turns out that my Fujinon XF 35mm f/2 R WR is a good lens for IR, so I purchased a 43mm-threaded filter for it.
One thing that I knew going into this project is that digital infrared photography often involves significant editing. Some of the classic infrared looks involve swapping color channels and making large adjustments to the color curves. My photographic philosophy has evolved into: as best you can, get it in-camera. My goal with this experiment was to get good infrared results in-camera without editing, or perhaps minimal editing at most.
What I discovered is that it’s not really possible to get good color IR photographs straight-out-of-camera because the filter puts a strong red color cast on the picture. I set the white balance to 2500K with a shift of -9 Red (and Blue set to anywhere between 0 and +7), but unfortunately that drastic white balance adjustment isn’t strong enough to combat the red. For whatever reason, I liked the Astia and Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulations better than the others. For black-and-white, Acros+R with Highlight and Shadow set to +4 looked good, although I think it’s possible to get similar results without the use of an IR filter.
These are straight-out-of-camera pictures from my Fujifilm X-E4 with a 35mm f/2 lens and IR720 filter:
Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph.
Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph.
Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph.
Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph.
Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph.
Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph.
Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph.
Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph.
The black-and-white pictures are good, but the color images aren’t anything great. I wanted to see if the color pictures could be improved by using an app like Snapseed. Maybe a quick edit could make a big improvement. If I couldn’t achieve desired results straight-out-of-camera, perhaps the next best thing would be a simple edit on my phone.
I gave the same exposure two different treatments in Snapseed. Take a look!
This is straight-out-of-camera unedited.
White Balance and other adjustments in Snapseed.
Color Curves and other adjustments in Snapseed.
The two strategies that I explored in Snapseed were adjusting the White Balance and changing the Color Curves, and these two methods produced much different results. Adjusting the White Balance or messing with the Color Curves in Snapseed can have a big impact on the image; either strategy works, with varying results. Still, using these methods in Snapseed was more involved than I wanted, and delivered mediocre results. Better than straight-out-of-camera? Yes, definitely. But not as good as I would have liked.
I also tried using Capture One to post-process some RAW files, and the results weren’t all that much better than using Snapseed—yet it adds another step and takes extra time. Really, the best software for editing infrared pictures is Lightroom or Photoshop, not Capture One, because you need the ability to swap color channels. You can get alright results editing infrared pictures with Capture One, just keep expectations low. Or maybe there’s a trick that I haven’t discovered.
An infrared picture edited with Capture One.
An infrared picture edited with Capture One.
Overall I was disappointed with my color infrared photographs. It’s not possible to get anything other than a picture with a strong red color cast straight-out-of-camera, which is alright sometimes but certainly not all of the time. I didn’t find any good quick fixes. Maybe there’s a shortcut that I’m missing, but I think good digital infrared photography in general typically requires significant editing, and using the right post-processing program.
The black-and-white photographs look good straight-out-of-camera, but I don’t think that I achieved anything special using the IR filter (compared to what I could have done without it). I’m not sure that it’s worth the hassle of the infrared filter for black-and-white photography, although I might play around with it more; perhaps there’s a potential that I’ve yet to discover.
Not being one to quickly give up, I kept looking for a solid solution to easily achieve good-looking color infrared pictures. I had to think outside-the-box. Was the IR filter necessary? Was a good facsimile possible? I knew it wasn’t possible straight-out-of-camera, but maybe a simple filter in an app could do the trick? That’s when I discovered RNI Aero! The app is free, but requires a $10 annual subscription to unlock its usefulness. RNI also makes an infrared simulation plugin for Lightroom (that’s significantly more expensive than the app). This post isn’t sponsored by them (or anyone), but I have been enjoying this simple solution for simulating infrared photography, so I wanted to share it with you. While I would prefer to do this in-camera (Fujifilm, please make an infrared film simulation), the RNI Aero app is the simplest and quickest way to get infrared-looking pictures without fuss. I’m happy with the results—more happy than using an actual infrared filter on my X-E4.
Below are pictures edited with the RNI Aero app:
Non-infrared picture edited with RNI Aero.
Non-infrared picture edited with RNI Aero.
Non-infrared picture edited with RNI Aero.
Non-infrared picture edited with RNI Aero.
Non-infrared picture edited with RNI Aero.
Non-infrared picture edited with RNI Aero.
Non-infrared picture edited with RNI Aero.
I’m not giving up on actual infrared photography. I still hope to someday do a full-spectrum conversion on my X-T1, and attach the Kolari IR Chrome filter to mimic Kodak Aerochrome straight-out-of-camera. That would be a lot of fun! Maybe I’ll discover some other method I’ve overlooked to easily get good results without the need for significant editing. In the meantime, I’ll use the app to get infrared-like results whenever I feel the need for an IR look.
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Stop Here on Infrared – Yellowstone NP, WY – Fujifilm X100V – “Black & White Infrared”
Infrared photographing is capturing light beyond the visible spectrum. It requires special film, or a digital sensor that has had the infrared filter removed. Any digital camera has the potential to be infrared sensitive, but the process isn’t easy or cheap. Full spectrum photography is similar to infrared, but also includes ultraviolet and visible light (not just infrared light). With full spectrum photography you can choose by the use of filters which light you want to capture. You can use filters with infrared, too, to control what light comes through, but not to the extent of full-spectrum. A characteristic of both infrared and full-spectrum in black-and-white is deep contrast, with dark skies and white foliage. One of my favorite photographers is Mitch Dobrowner, who converted his Canon cameras to full-spectrum for dramatic monochrome storm photography.
When I purchased my Fujifilm X-T1, I had the intentions of converting it to full-spectrum, but the cost of the conversion has prevented me from doing it. I still hope to do so, maybe later this year or perhaps next year. We’ll see. But I figured out a way to simulate something that’s in the neighborhood of infrared or full-spectrum on my Fujifilm X100V without any conversions. In the right light and with the right subject, it can be quite convincing! Even though you are only using the visible spectrum of light, it can appear as though you are actually doing infrared photography. Amazing!
Even in situations where this recipe doesn’t resemble infrared or full-spectrum, it will still produce a dramatic, high-contrast look that you might find appealing. Those who have said that Acros+R doesn’t actually resemble the use of a red filter on black-and-white film will appreciate these settings. Many landscape photographers, including Ansel Adams, employed a red filter to achieve a dark sky (for example, Moonrise Over Hernandez).
White Tree Black Sky – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Black & White Infrared”
The trick is to use a low Kelvin white balance in conjunction with a dramatic white balance shift when using Acros+R. I got the idea from Fuji X Weekly reader James Clinich, who uses between 3800K and 4500K with a 0 Red & +8 shift to achieve a darker sky, which is something you can apply to other B&W recipes if you’d like to better mimic the use of a red filter. I just took his idea a step further to make it even more dramatic for this recipe.
My Black & White Infrared film simulation recipe can be difficult to use. I find that it doesn’t always work well. It can be very tough to gauge the best exposure, and I’ve had to go anywhere from -1 to +3 on the exposure compensation dial to get it right. It’s one of the more difficult to use recipes that I’ve created, yet it is highly rewarding. If you like dramatic black and white photographs, you’ll want to give this one a try! As of this writing, it’s only compatible with the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4 cameras.
Acros+R
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +4
Shadow: +3
B&W Toning: 0
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -4
Clarity: +5
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: 2750K, -5 Red & +9 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Black & White Infrared film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Crafts & Hobbies – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Cloud Above The Wall – Draper, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Flags Over IKEA Infrared – Draper, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Pinnacle – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Suburban Abstract – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Suites – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Paved Paradise – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Accessible Parking – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Done Shopping – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Soda Glass – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Couch Stripes – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Flowers in the Sky – Big Sky, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Grey Hills – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Abandoned Dream Infrared – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Abandoned House by the Hill IR – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Henry’s Fork River – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V
Upper Red Rock Lake IR – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Red Rock Road Monochrome – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Aspen Leaves Infrared – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Illuminated Tree – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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This is a fake infrared picture that I captured in Yosemite National Park several years ago.
I would love a full-spectrum Fujifilm camera for infrared photography. I’ve had an interest in infrared photography for some time, but I have yet to actually try it. Yes, I shot a roll of infrared film many, many years ago, but I didn’t understand what I was doing and the results were disappointing. I’ve also used software to make faux infrared, but I don’t particularly like the results from that, either. No, what I need is a Fujifilm camera that has been modified for full-spectrum, and then a bunch of filters to achieve various affects. You can find these cameras sometimes on eBay, like this X-E3 for $900, this X-T1 for $850, or this X-T100 for $590. [Edit: This X100F is the one I want, but at $1,300 it is outside of my budget.] I would especially love to buy the X-E3, but honestly I’d be happy with the X-T100. You also need filters, which can be cheap (like this one) and can be expensive (like this one), depending on the brand, filter thread size, and the exact effect you are after. Additionally, you need to know what lenses are good for infrared, but thankfully there’s a good database, so it’s not too difficult to know which lenses will work well and which ones won’t.
It would be great if Fujifilm made a full-spectrum version of one of their cameras (the X100F, perhaps). I doubt that will ever happen, unless there’s a sudden interest in infrared photography. Sigma cameras have a removable IR filter over the sensor, which when removed turns the camera into full-spectrum. The filter just pops in and out. An option like that would be pretty cool on Fujifilm cameras, but it’s unlikely. The best bet is to buy a camera that’s had the conversion done to it. Someday, when I have some extra money burning a hole in my pocket, I will do that. Until then, I will dream in the unusual colors of infrared.
