low key

Fujifilm X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipe: Low Key

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Cactus Spiderweb – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

Fujifilm cameras have a feature in Advanced Filter Settings called “Low Key” that I recently discovered is based on the Provia film simulation, and can be mimicked. While this “Low Key” setting can produce nice-looking images, I felt that it could be better, so I set out to create a Film Simulation Recipe to serve as an alternative to it, with an aesthetic that I appreciate a little more. Specifically, I wanted a recipe based on the Classic Negative film simulation instead of Provia because I like Classic Negative better. My “Bright Kodak” recipe is an alternative to the “High Key” feature found in the Advanced Filter Settings.

Low Key photography is purposefully underexposing for a darker image. It works well when the subject is brightly lit, and the rest of the frame isn’t, so the image is predominately dark, and the brightly lit subject stands out in the otherwise dim frame. I hope this explanation makes sense. This “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe and the Low Key feature in the Advanced Filter Settings work similarly, and produce nice results when used in the correct situations. While not for everyday use, some of you will certainly appreciate this recipe for when the light is right. I did not model this recipe after any specific emulsion.

Petersen’s Ice Cream – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

This “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with newer X-Trans IV cameras: Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, & X-T30 II. Because it uses Classic Negative, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity, it is not compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30. Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too, although results will be slightly different.

Classic Negative
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +1
Shadow: +2
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -1
Clarity: -2
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: Daylight, -2 Red & -4 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to -1 1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:

Cactus & Palm Shadow – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Very Tiny Flowers – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Green Cactus Pads – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Spiky – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Blue Sky Cacti – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Bougainvillea Sky – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Light Bulb Evening – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Lit Leaves – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Cinderblock Wall Girl – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
oyride – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
The Queen’s – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

Low Key Film Simulation Recipe vs. Low Key Advanced Filter Setting

Low Key Film Simulation Recipe
Low Key Advanced Filter Setting

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Highs & Lows (Key)

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Golden Palms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”

I pretty much know Fujifilm cameras backwards and forwards. I’ve got to admit, though, that there are a few features that I never⁠—or almost never⁠—use. I recently rediscovered two of these tools that I tried once, didn’t like the results, and so I never used them again… until now. I didn’t realize that I was actually missing out on something kind of cool! I’ve had a lot of fun with these over the last few days, and I bet some of you will, too⁠—and I also bet that you don’t use these features, and perhaps have never even tried them.

What are they? High Key and Low Key.

Note: This was a Creative Collective article, but now it’s available to everyone.

Backlit Cactus – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

What is high key and low key? The former is purposely overexposing a frame for a bright image, and the latter is purposefully underexposing a frame for a dark image. There’s actually a High Key and Low Key mode found on your Fujifilm camera in Advanced Filters (and I believe most Fujifilm cameras have this option). I can hear you say, “But aren’t the ‘Advanced Filters’ gimmicky and there’s nothing actually ‘advanced’ about them?” Yes. This is different, though, and I’ll explain why. It’s actually interesting what the camera is doing when you use these.

First, though, let’s talk about how to find Advanced Filters. For some cameras it is found on the Drive knob on the top plate, and for other cameras it is found via the Drive button on the back of the camera. If you’re not sure where it is on your model, look for it in the user manual. It’s pretty easy to get to once you know where to look. Once you locate Advanced Filters, you’ll want to select either High Key or Low Key.

Both High Key and Low Key are JPEG options that are based on the Provia film simulation. It uses DR100 (DR-Auto is available to choose, but I could not get the camera to use DR200 even when pointed directly at the sun). Color, Highlight, Shadow, Sharpness, Noise Reduction, Clarity, etc., are all set to 0, and cannot be adjusted. Color Chrome Effect, Grain, etc., are Off and cannot be used (for those cameras with those functions). White Balance is Auto 0R & 0B and cannot be changed. On newer cameras, if you shoot RAW+JPEG, you’ll also get a RAW file, which can be reprocessed in-camera (or with X RAW Studio) if you’d like. Even though Highlight & Shadow are set to 0, you do not get the same result as setting Highlight & Shadow to 0. There’s a curve applied, but more importantly, there’s an underexposure (for Low Key) or overexposure (for High Key) automatically being applied.

So what’s going on? For Low Key, the camera is underexposing by two stops and using Highlight 0 & Shadow +1. For High Key, the camera is overexposing by two and two-thirds stops and applying -2 Highlight & -2 Shadow. You can actually replicate both of these⁠—it took me a little bit to figure that out, but I did!

If you use Low Key, I discovered that increasing the exposure by +2/3 to +1 1/3 produces good results (because the pictures are too dark with Exposure Compensation set to 0). Low Key works well when the subject is brightly lit, especially backlit. For High Key, decreasing the exposure by -1 to -2 produces good results (because the pictures are too bright with Exposure Compensation set to 0). High Key works well in warm “golden hour” light or contrasty midday light. Both of the Low Key and High Key options are good ways to easily achieve certain aesthetics without needing to program a new Film Simulation Recipe into the C1-C7 custom presets (which is precious real estate).

If you don’t want to use the High Key and Low Key options in Advanced Filters, but want to get identical results, try this:

Low Key
Provia
Dynamic Range: DR100
Highlight: 0
Shadow: +1
Color: 0
Noise Reduction: 0
Sharpness: 0
Clarity: 0
Grain Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue
ISO: Whatever you want, I did Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to -1 1/3 (typically)

High Key
Provia
Dynamic Range: DR100
Highlight: -2
Shadow: -2
Color: 0
Noise Reduction: 0
Sharpness: 0
Clarity: 0
Grain Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue
ISO: Whatever you want, I did Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 2/3 (typically)

Of course, the great thing is that these can be customized (unlike High Key and Low Key in Advanced Filters, which cannot be customized). You can use DR200 or even DR400 if you want. You can select Grain or Clarity or Color Chrome Effect (for those cameras with those options). You can adjust Color, Sharpness, and Noise Reduction. You can adjust the White Balance and WB Shift. You can even change the Film Simulation if you want to. There’s a ton of potential!

Here are some sample pictures captured using High Key & Low Key on my Fujifilm X-E4:

Two Palms at Sunset – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Ducks & Boat at Sunset – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Reaching High Cacti – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Midday Palms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Colorful Little Flowers – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”
Cactus Pads – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”
Reaching Cacti – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”
Highlighted Thorns – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

Fujifilm Used My Photo!

Posted on by Ritchie Roesch

Did you see this? Fujifilm used one of my pictures!

They, of course, received my permission first. And, yes, that means I have spoken with Fujifilm, and they know that this website exists. I’m not sponsored by them or have any official association—I’m not an X-Photographer, for example. It’s good to know that they know what’s being published on Fuji X Weekly, because this audience is filled with their best customers. I published an article, Shrinking Camera Market: What Fujifilm Should Do In 2021 & Beyond, which contained what I feel is solid advice, but the best suggestions are from you all, found in the comments section. I hope Fujifilm read it, and there’s a chance they might have. I want your voice to be heard.

Back to the picture!

Duskflower – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100V

The image that Fujifilm used, which is the picture above, is from my article, Fujifilm X100V Hack: Turn Daylight Into Blue Hour. It was captured during the day and not during dusk or dawn like it appears to have been. Read my article if you want to know how I did it. The Fujifilm article, Using Low Key To Create High Drama, is about low-key photography, which is basically an overall dark picture where light is emphasized on only a small part of the frame. In my picture, the flower is where the light is emphasized, and the rest is pretty dark.

It’s cool to see my picture used in an educational piece by Fujifilm. I hope that it inspires you to try low-key photography, or maybe even experiment with flash and white balance. But perhaps, more importantly, it is an indication that Fujifilm is aware of what’s happening on this website, and maybe—just maybe—they’ll be influenced by this community in some way.