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Fujifilm’s Hidden Feature: Advanced Filters (plus, what Fujifilm should do with it on future cameras)

There’s a feature on most Fujifilm cameras that few use—you might not be aware that it even exists—called Advanced Filters. Fujifilm introduced Advanced Filters in 2013 with the X100S and X20. With the exception of a few early models, your Fujifilm X-series camera has Advanced Filters (however, GFX models does not have it). Find Advanced Filters on the Drive Dial or Drive Menu (depending on the specifics of your model). For older cameras, Advanced Filters are JPEG only; however, on newer models, you can save a RAW file in addition to the JPEG. Since its initial implementation, Fujifilm has left this feature unmodified, offering the same options on each camera generation.

Why are the Advanced Filters so obscure and not widely used? Worse, why is it actually detested by some who have tried it? Well, the short answer is that Advanced Filters aren’t “advanced” at all, and are probably the most gimmicky and sometimes cringy thing Fujifilm has included in what are otherwise sophisticated cameras. My personal opinion is that some of the Advanced Filters are okay, others aren’t particularly good, and some are definitely out-of-date. Let’s take a look at each Advanced Filter.

Toy Camera

Fujifilm describes this Advanced Filter as “a retro toy camera effect”, which is to say that it is roughly modeled after a Holga or Diana film camera aesthetic. It’s intended to be a “lomo” look. It seems to be the Provia Film Simulation with a yellow cast and some vignetting.

Miniature

This adds blur to the top and bottom of the frame, similar to using a tilt-shift lens. When you are photographing from an elevated vantage point, the Miniature Advanced Filter can give the illusion that the subject is a miniature model. It’s better to use an actual tilt-shift lens to get this effect, but if you don’t own one, this is an easy way to approximate it. Like a lot of the Advanced Filters, I believe that it is based on the Provia Film Simulation.

Pop Color

Pop Color is my favorite Advanced Filter. It more-or-less resembles Fujichrome Fortia 50 film, and in my opinion Fujifilm should make Pop Color the next Film Simulation and call it Fortia. Perhaps they’ll need to fine-tune some aspects of it, but whatever it is that they need to do, I believe that Pop Color absolutely should graduate from Advanced Filters.

High Key/Low Key

Above Left: High Key Advanced Filter; Above Right: Low Key Advanced Filter

The High Key Advanced Filter creates a bright overexposed image, while the Low Key Advanced Filter creates a dark underexposed image. There’s nothing especially special about High Key and Low Key, as both can be easily replicated using the Provia film simulation. You might occasionally use these two in lieu of having a Film Simulation Recipe programmed into C1-C7 with a similar look, but I don’t believe many people are doing that. Instead, you could use Recipes like Bright Kodak or Low Key for better results.

Dynamic Tone

“Dynamic tone expression is used for a fantasy effect,” is how Fujifilm describes it. What it reminds me of is HDR photography with aggressive tonemapping, which was all the rage 15 to 20 years ago despite being hideous.

Soft Focus

The Soft Focus Advanced Filter is kind of like setting Clarity to -20 and Sharpness to -10 on your Fujifilm camera (if that were possible) while using the Provia Film Simulation. In my opinion, it’s much too strong; instead, it should be integrated into the Toy Camera Advanced Filter with the options of Off, Weak, or Strong (with the current iteration being Strong).

Partial Color (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Purple)

Above left: Partial Color Red Advanced Filter; Above right: Partial Color Green Advanced Filter

The six Partial Color filters are the Monochrome film simulation (with everything set to factory defaults), but with one color recorded (either red, orange, yellow, green, blue, or purple—the singular color is the Provia Film Simulation). This is another effect that was popular 15 to 20 years ago, but is not currently trendy.

In the past when I’ve suggested that Fujifilm should consider overhauling Advanced Filters, I was surprised by the pushback. There are people who use these, and surprisingly some of the options are beloved by some photographers. The best thing that Fujifilm could do is to allow them to be customized with White Balance, Dynamic Range, Grain, etc.. For Toy Camera, it would be cool if you could choose the Film Simulation, too. If Fujifilm were to ax half of the Advanced Filters, I don’t think most people would mind (or even notice).

Let’s hypothesize that on the next generation of Fujifilm cameras, which are likely coming within the next handful of months, that they overhaul Advanced Filters. Fujifilm is probably not doing this, but let’s just pretend that they are (because they should). Let’s say that Pop Color is gone because it’s now the Fortia Film Simulation. Let’s also say that High Key and Low Key are removed because they are unnecessary and their inclusion is a bit silly. Additionally, let’s say that Dynamic Tone and Soft Focus are axed because they’re cringy. That leaves Toy Camera, Miniature, and Partial Color, which Fujifilm should allow customization for, so that they can be modified for each person’s tastes.

Obviously, some new Advanced Filters will need to be added to replaced the ones that were removed. Fujifilm needs to look no further than the X half to find the answer. The Fujifilm X half has Filters, which are the Advanced Filters plus some new ones taken from the Instax Evo series. Some of these are really good, and should make their way into other X-series cameras. Let’s look at a few that Fujifilm should add to Advanced Filters.

Retro

The best that I can describe the Retro Filter is push-processed Ektachrome slide film from the late 1960’s and 1970’s (think Ormond Gigli’s color work from that era). This is one of my favorite X half filters, and would be a great addition to the X-series.

Expired Film

Above: Expired Film Filter — Fujifilm X half

The Expired Film Filter on the X half has three options: Green, Red, and Neutral. These aren’t Filters that I would use all the time, but on occasion they can be a lot of fun. As long as Grain can be selected (or maybe Fujifilm has Grain built into it), then it doesn’t need to be customized any further.

Light Leak & Halation

Above left: Light Leak Filter; Above right: Halation filter

There are two other X half Filters that I would like to see added to the X-series: Light Leak and Halation; however, I would like these to be JPEG options and not stand-alone Advanced Filters. You should be able to apply them to any Film Simulation, and make them a part of Fujifilm Recipes. For Light Leak, the options should be: Low, High, On, Off. If set to On, every image has a light leak; if set to Low, only a small percentage of random images (say 5%) get a light leak; if set to High, a larger percentage of random images (say 20%) get a light leak. The Halation effect, which should have the options of Off, Weak, and Strong, would be great for Cinestill Recipes. If Fujifilm is unwilling to do that, at the very least they should add these two to Advanced Filters.

Cross Process

This is a bonus, but I think an Advanced Filter that resembles cross-processed Fujichrome Velvia 50 film would be really cool. I used to develop E6 slide film in C41 chemistry for fun many years ago, and if my Fujifilm camera could replicate that aesthetic, I would love it.

If Fujifilm asked for my input on how to improve the Advanced Filters, I would get rid of a few of them (namely, High Key, Low Key, Dynamic Tone, and Soft Focus). I would graduate Pop Color to a Film Simulation named Fortia. I would allow Toy Camera, Miniature, and Partial Color to be customized with various JPEG options. I would add Retro and Expired Film from the X half to the list of Advanced Filters, as well as Light Leak and Halation if Fujifilm is unwilling to make them JPEG options that can be applied to any Film Simulation. And I would add a Cross Process Advance Filter that resembles Fujichrome Velvia 50 developed in C41 chemistry, because that would be really cool. This would turn what is often viewed as a cringy feature into something more useful and better appreciated. Will Fujifilm take this advice? I hope so, but my guess is that Advanced Filters will continue to be identical to what it was way back in 2013 when it was first introduced.

Fujifilm X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipe: Low Key

Posted on June 15, 2022 by Ritchie Roesch

*Cactus Spiderweb* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

Fujifilm cameras have a feature in Advanced Filter Settings called “Low Key” that I recently discovered is based on the Provia film simulation, and can be mimicked. While this “Low Key” setting can produce nice-looking images, I felt that it could be better, so I set out to create a Film Simulation Recipe to serve as an alternative to it, with an aesthetic that I appreciate a little more. Specifically, I wanted a recipe based on the Classic Negative film simulation instead of Provia because I like Classic Negative better. My “Bright Kodak” recipe is an alternative to the “High Key” feature found in the Advanced Filter Settings.

Low Key photography is purposefully underexposing for a darker image. It works well when the subject is brightly lit, and the rest of the frame isn’t, so the image is predominately dark, and the brightly lit subject stands out in the otherwise dim frame. I hope this explanation makes sense. This “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe and the Low Key feature in the Advanced Filter Settings work similarly, and produce nice results when used in the correct situations. While not for everyday use, some of you will certainly appreciate this recipe for when the light is right. I did not model this recipe after any specific emulsion.

*Petersen’s Ice Cream* – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

This “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with newer X-Trans IV cameras: Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, & X-T30 II. Because it uses Classic Negative, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity, it is not compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30. Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too, although results will be slightly different.

Classic Negative
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +1
Shadow: +2
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -1
Clarity: -2
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: Daylight, -2 Red & -4 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to -1 1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:

*Cactus & Palm Shadow* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Very Tiny Flowers* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Green Cactus Pads* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Blue Sky Cacti* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Bougainvillea* *Sky* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Light Bulb Evening* – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Lit Leaves* – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Cinderblock Wall Girl* – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*The Queen’s* – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

Low Key Film Simulation Recipe vs. Low Key Advanced Filter Setting

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Highs & Lows (Key)

Posted on June 5, 2022 by Ritchie Roesch

*Golden Palms* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”

I pretty much know Fujifilm cameras backwards and forwards. I’ve got to admit, though, that there are a few features that I never⁠—or almost never⁠—use. I recently rediscovered two of these tools that I tried once, didn’t like the results, and so I never used them again… until now. I didn’t realize that I was actually missing out on something kind of cool! I’ve had a lot of fun with these over the last few days, and I bet some of you will, too⁠—and I also bet that you don’t use these features, and perhaps have never even tried them.

What are they? High Key and Low Key.

Note: This was a Creative Collective article, but now it’s available to everyone.

*Backlit Cactus* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

What is high key and low key? The former is purposely overexposing a frame for a bright image, and the latter is purposefully underexposing a frame for a dark image. There’s actually a High Key and Low Key mode found on your Fujifilm camera in Advanced Filters (and I believe most Fujifilm cameras have this option). I can hear you say, “But aren’t the ‘Advanced Filters’ gimmicky and there’s nothing actually ‘advanced’ about them?” Yes. This is different, though, and I’ll explain why. It’s actually interesting what the camera is doing when you use these.

First, though, let’s talk about how to find Advanced Filters. For some cameras it is found on the Drive knob on the top plate, and for other cameras it is found via the Drive button on the back of the camera. If you’re not sure where it is on your model, look for it in the user manual. It’s pretty easy to get to once you know where to look. Once you locate Advanced Filters, you’ll want to select either High Key or Low Key.

Both High Key and Low Key are JPEG options that are based on the Provia film simulation. It uses DR100 (DR-Auto is available to choose, but I could not get the camera to use DR200 even when pointed directly at the sun). Color, Highlight, Shadow, Sharpness, Noise Reduction, Clarity, etc., are all set to 0, and cannot be adjusted. Color Chrome Effect, Grain, etc., are Off and cannot be used (for those cameras with those functions). White Balance is Auto 0R & 0B and cannot be changed. On newer cameras, if you shoot RAW+JPEG, you’ll also get a RAW file, which can be reprocessed in-camera (or with X RAW Studio) if you’d like. Even though Highlight & Shadow are set to 0, you do not get the same result as setting Highlight & Shadow to 0. There’s a curve applied, but more importantly, there’s an underexposure (for Low Key) or overexposure (for High Key) automatically being applied.

So what’s going on? For Low Key, the camera is underexposing by two stops and using Highlight 0 & Shadow +1. For High Key, the camera is overexposing by two and two-thirds stops and applying -2 Highlight & -2 Shadow. You can actually replicate both of these⁠—it took me a little bit to figure that out, but I did!

If you use Low Key, I discovered that increasing the exposure by +2/3 to +1 1/3 produces good results (because the pictures are too dark with Exposure Compensation set to 0). Low Key works well when the subject is brightly lit, especially backlit. For High Key, decreasing the exposure by -1 to -2 produces good results (because the pictures are too bright with Exposure Compensation set to 0). High Key works well in warm “golden hour” light or contrasty midday light. Both of the Low Key and High Key options are good ways to easily achieve certain aesthetics without needing to program a new Film Simulation Recipe into the C1-C7 custom presets (which is precious real estate).

If you don’t want to use the High Key and Low Key options in Advanced Filters, but want to get identical results, try this:

Low Key
Provia
Dynamic Range: DR100
Highlight: 0
Shadow: +1
Color: 0
Noise Reduction: 0
Sharpness: 0
Clarity: 0
Grain Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue
ISO: Whatever you want, I did Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to -1 1/3 (typically)

High Key
Provia
Dynamic Range: DR100
Highlight: -2
Shadow: -2
Color: 0
Noise Reduction: 0
Sharpness: 0
Clarity: 0
Grain Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue
ISO: Whatever you want, I did Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 2/3 (typically)

Of course, the great thing is that these can be customized (unlike High Key and Low Key in Advanced Filters, which cannot be customized). You can use DR200 or even DR400 if you want. You can select Grain or Clarity or Color Chrome Effect (for those cameras with those options). You can adjust Color, Sharpness, and Noise Reduction. You can adjust the White Balance and WB Shift. You can even change the Film Simulation if you want to. There’s a ton of potential!

Here are some sample pictures captured using High Key & Low Key on my Fujifilm X-E4:

*Two Palms at Sunset* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”

*Ducks & Boat at Sunset* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”

*Reaching High Cacti* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”

*Midday Palms* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”

*Colorful Little Flowers* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

*Cactus Pads* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

*Reaching Cacti* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

*Highlighted Thorns* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key”

Fujifilm Used My Photo!

Posted on November 19, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Did you see this? Fujifilm used one of my pictures!

They, of course, received my permission first. And, yes, that means I have spoken with Fujifilm, and they know that this website exists. I’m not sponsored by them or have any official association—I’m not an X-Photographer, for example. It’s good to know that they know what’s being published on Fuji X Weekly, because this audience is filled with their best customers. I published an article, Shrinking Camera Market: What Fujifilm Should Do In 2021 & Beyond, which contained what I feel is solid advice, but the best suggestions are from you all, found in the comments section. I hope Fujifilm read it, and there’s a chance they might have. I want your voice to be heard.

Back to the picture!

*Duskflower* – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100V

The image that Fujifilm used, which is the picture above, is from my article, Fujifilm X100V Hack: Turn Daylight Into Blue Hour. It was captured during the day and not during dusk or dawn like it appears to have been. Read my article if you want to know how I did it. The Fujifilm article, Using Low Key To Create High Drama, is about low-key photography, which is basically an overall dark picture where light is emphasized on only a small part of the frame. In my picture, the flower is where the light is emphasized, and the rest is pretty dark.

It’s cool to see my picture used in an educational piece by Fujifilm. I hope that it inspires you to try low-key photography, or maybe even experiment with flash and white balance. But perhaps, more importantly, it is an indication that Fujifilm is aware of what’s happening on this website, and maybe—just maybe—they’ll be influenced by this community in some way.