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Exposure Triangle, Part 2: Understanding Shutter Speed

*Fujifilm X100VI – f/11, ISO 500, 1/15 shutter – Kodak Gold 200*

Shutter speed simply controls the amount of time that light is exposed to the camera’s sensor. How motion is rendered—either frozen still or as a blur—will depend on the shutter speed. There are a few key things to know, but overall this is all fairly easy to understand.

Before we dive in, I want to quickly revisit aperture, because there’s something I forgot to mention in Part 1. How sunstars and lens flare will appear depends on a number of factors, including (among other things) the aperture you’ve selected. For more pronounced sunstars, use a small aperture, such as f/16. If you want to minimize sunstars and lens flare, use a large aperture, such as f/2. This is just one more factor to consider when choosing the most appropriate aperture for the scene in front of you.

*Forest Sunstar* – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50 & Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens at f/14 – California Summer

Now, with that out of the way, let’s talk about shutter speeds. What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want?

The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is that it is the amount of time the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light in. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and ISO, and must be used in balance with the other two elements. On many Fujifilm cameras, the shutter speed is controlled by a knob on the top of the camera, marked with numbers like 125, 250, 500, etc., etc..

*Fujifilm X-T30 & Rokinon 12mm f/2 + tripod – 0.4 second exposure – Kodak Gold 200*

Some common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30. Like aperture, there are intermediate stops in-between the full stops—most commonly one-third stops, but sometimes half-stops.

Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion as a blur, while a fast shutter speed will freeze it. In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/450 shutter speed*

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/80 shutter speed*

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/60 shutter speed*

In order to freeze motion, there are a few considerations: the focal length of the lens, the distance of the moving object, and it’s speed. The longer the focal length of the lens, the faster the minimum shutter speed needs to be; the shorter the focal length, the slower the minimum shutter speed needs to be. The closer and faster the moving object is, the faster the shutter speed needs to be; the further and slower the moving object is, the slower the shutter needs to be in order to freeze it.

If nothing is moving in the frame, the only motion is the photographer. A tripod will eliminate camera shake; if you don’t have a tripod, in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS) or optical-image-stabilization (OIS) can help to a degree. If your gear doesn’t have stabilization, you’ll want to use this rule of thumb: whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 18mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 27mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/30. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 – f/9, ISO 320, 1/680 shutter – 1970’s Summer*

In order to freeze motion, for portraits, events, kids, and pets, I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/125, but faster is better, such as 1/250. For sports and moving wildlife, the minimum shutter speed should be 1/250, but faster is better, such as 1/500. If the motion is blurry, increase the shutter speed. In order to show motion as a blur, the maximum shutter speed will likely need to be under 1/125, and probably under 1/30, just depending on the situation. If the blur is insufficient, decrease the shutter speed.

Another shutter speed consideration is in regards to flash photography. Some cameras, such as the X100-series, have a leaf shutter, which allows for high-speed flash sync; however, most cameras don’t have a leaf shutter, and have a maximum shutter speed for flash. On Fujifilm models, this is marked by an “X” next to the shutter speed—for example, on the X-T5, the maximum shutter speed for flash photography is 1/250, which is marked as 250X on the shutter knob. The fastest shutter speed you should use with flash photography is the one with the X next to it.

*Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 + flash – f/4, ISO 500, 1/250 shutter – Nostalgic Americana*

The two main things to remember about shutter speed are 1) that it is used to show motion, either frozen still or as a blur, and 2) it is one aspect of the exposure triangle, and must be balanced with both aperture and ISO. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the light, so you may need to use a larger aperture and/or a higher ISO to compensate; reducing the shutter speed increases the light, so you may need to use a smaller aperture and/or lower ISO. It’s a balancing act. Used thoughtfully, shutter speed can express movement in creative ways, so take a moment to consider how to best use it for the scene in front of you.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
Amazon, B&H, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

Fujifilm X-E5 should have the Combo Shutter/ISO Dial

Posted on September 7, 2024 by Ritchie Roesch

Fujirumors posted a poll today asking whether people would prefer the (someday upcoming) Fujifilm X-E5 to have the same Shutter Knob as the X-E4, or replace the Shutter Knob with a Film Dial, or use a Shutter/ISO combo Knob like the X100/X-Pro cameras. As of this writing, a little over 70% would prefer the Shutter/ISO Knob, according to the poll.

Way back in March of 2021 when the X-E4 was brand-new, I said “It would have been a nice touch if Fujifilm had included an ISO ring around the shutter knob.” It should not surprise anyone that my vote is for the Shutter/ISO combo. In my opinion, if the X-E4 had had that combo Knob, had kept the M/C/S switch, and had kept the rear Command Dial, the camera would have been pretty much perfect. I understand that the Shutter/ISO combo Knob is much more complicated and more expensive, but it would be worthwhile to include it on X-E series cameras, in my opinion.

There’s a vocal group of people who didn’t like the X-E4, but prefer the X-E3 instead, and want the X-E5 to be more similar to the X-E3 than the X-E4. That’s because the X-E4 was slimmed down with a minimalistic approach, but perhaps just a bit too minimalistic. It’s completely understandable that not everyone appreciated it. The reason why the X-E5 is much more likely to have more in common with the X-E4 than the X-E3 is simple: the Fujifilm X-E3 did not meet sales expectations, while the X-E4 exceeded them. Fujifilm had to steeply discount the already affordable X-E3 just to clear the warehouse, and even then had trouble selling them (the X-E3 could be found rather easily a year after it was discontinued, and for a discount). The X-E4 was difficult to find in-stock throughout its production life, and had months-long backorder lists when it was suddenly discontinued, presumably because Fujifilm ran out of parts and couldn’t secure enough to justify keeping the assembly line open. Now, the X-E4 sells for a few hundred more used than it did brand-new. I’m not saying that the X-E3 is a lesser camera, only that Fujifilm had trouble selling it and had trouble meeting the demand of its successor, so it is logical that they’d follow the formula that worked well for sales.

The less that Fujifilm changes from the X-E4, the better in my opinion. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Give it the X Processor 5, an improved EVF, the M/C/S switch, rear Command Dial, and that combination Shutter/ISO Knob, and you’ve got a really compelling camera. But, who knows, Fujifilm might do a complete overhaul. I have no idea.

While I actually really like the Film Dial on the Fujifilm X-T50, and I found a way to make it work quite well, I would not replace the Shutter or Exposure Compensation Knobs with it. That just doesn’t make any sense. If Fujifilm really wants to include the Film Dial on the X-E5, it would need to be an additional feature, and not a replacement of something already existing. Maybe similar to how Leica integrated the ISO Dial into the M11?

It will be interesting to see how Fujifilm evolves the X-E line. It’s much beloved by those who have owned them, but always on the chopping block, it seems. Apparently it’s not mainstream enough to have a secure spot in the X-series lineup, but the passionate fanbase prevents Fujifilm from axing it. If the X-E5 existed today, it would sell like hotcakes; heck, if the X-E4 was still being manufactured, it would be selling like hotcakes right now. Whenever the X-E5 is eventually released, perhaps next year, it will likely do very well for Fujifilm. But, I do think it’s important to strike while the iron is hot, and it’s hot at this very moment—so the sooner the better.

Camera Basics: Shutter Speed

Posted on November 2, 2020 by Ritchie Roesch

Fujifilm X-T30 & Rokinon 12mm – 0.4 Second Shutter Speed

Let’s talk about shutter speed! What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want? For many of you, this is something you already know very well, but for others this will be helpful information.

The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is this: the amount of time that the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the camera’s sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor or film, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light to expose the sensor or film. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, with aperture and ISO being the other two.

Some examples of common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30.

If the shutter speed is too slow, you’ll have blur from camera shake, unless you’re using a tripod. A rule of thumb for the slowest hand-held shutter speed (without the help of image stabilization) is this: whatever the focal-length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm X, the 35mm-equivalent focal-length), the shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 12mm, which has a 35mm-equivalent focal-length of about 18mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/15 or 1/20. If the lens is 90mm, which has a 35mm-equivalent focal-length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice. Otherwise, you’ll have to use a tripod.

Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing it or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion (such as the picture at the top of this article, where the water is blurred), while a fast shutter speed will freeze it (such as the picture directly below this paragraph, where the moving car is sharp). In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.

You can show motion in a photograph using a slow shutter speed, and some of that motion might not be immediately obvious. In the first picture below, the firework is moving during the exposure, showing colorful light streaks. In the second picture, the earth’s rotation makes the stars streak. In the third picture, intentionally shaking the lens creates an abstract picture through the camera’s movement.

Fujifilm X100V – 20 second shutter speed

Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 100-400mm – 30 second shutter speed

Fujifilm X-T20 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/15 shutter speed

A fast shutter speed will freeze motion. If there’s some fast-moving object that you want to capture still without blur, you need a quick shutter. This might be a car driving down the road, running kids or jumping pets. Just how fast the shutter needs to be depends on how fast the object is moving, how close it is to the lens, and the focal-length of the lens. The picture below is an example of freezing a moving object with a fast shutter speed.

Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/2000 shutter speed

It takes much practice to master the shutter, but with practice you’ll know exactly what shutter speed you need to get the picture that you want. There are many variables, so there’s no one-size-fits-all recommendation. Don’t be afraid to experiment. You might fail, but you’ll learn, which will lead to success. Be creative! Put the camera on a tripod and try some different slow shutter speeds. Try photographing your kids or pets using a fast shutter. Pretty soon you’ll be a master of the shutter, totally in control of your camera.

Leaf Shutter & Flash & X100F – Oh, My!

Posted on September 6, 2017 by Ritchie Roesch

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The Fujifilm X100F has two built-in shutters: electronic and mechanical. The electronic is a silent focal-plane shutter and has a maximum speed of 1/32,768. The mechanical is a nearly silent leaf shutter and has a maximum speed between 1/1000 and 1/4000, depending on the aperture. You can choose one or the other or have the camera automatically choose which it thinks is most appropriate for the situation.

When I purchased my X100F I didn’t think that the leaf shutter would be a big deal. I don’t do a whole lot of flash photography. I figured it would be a rarely used feature. Boy was I wrong!

A leaf shutter works more like an iris. There are blades, similar to aperture blades, inside the lens that open and close. It opens from the center outward. For this reason you can sync it to the flash at much higher shutter speeds. A traditional focal-plane shutter (which is found on most cameras) rolls across the frame, and doesn’t pair particularly well with flashes.

The Joy of Fishing – Huntsville, UT – Fujifilm X100F w/Flash

Leaf shutters are typically found on expensive medium-format gear. You rarely see them on other cameras. The exception is that Fujifilm has included leaf shutters on their X100 series, such as the X100F.

The Fujifilm X100F has a great built-in flash. There is a hotshoe should you want to add an external flash, but the fill-flash is more than adequate for most pictures. And Fujifilm has programmed the camera to perfectly balance the built-in flash with whatever lighting is available.

It’s truly amazing! The camera almost never gets it wrong. It just seems to know the perfect amount of light to add to the scene. The results are very natural looking. The pictures don’t scream that a flash was used.

Man In The Straw Hat – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F w/Flash

I wasn’t much of a flash-photography guy, but now I am. I find myself frequently using the built-in flash on the X100F. The flash and the leaf shutter are key features of this camera!

It makes anything from family snapshots to portraits to back-lit scenes to dim-light situations a breeze to shoot. Any setting with unwanted shadows can be made better by using the flash built into the camera.

There are many things to love about the X100F. The retro look. The classic controls. The film simulations. The camera’s exceptional ability to balance fill-flash with the rest of the frame is perhaps the best part of it. And it is all made possible by the leaf shutter.

Let’s Roll The Moon Across The Sun – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F w/Flash