Oak Creek in Monochrome – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5 – FRGMT B&W
A couple of weeks ago Fujifilm announced the GFX100RF Fragment Edition, a limited-edition version of the GFX100RF, which will only be available in Japan. The camera was modified by fashion designer, producer, and artist Hiroshi Fujiwara, the founder of Fragment. Interestingly, it comes preloaded with a Film Simulation Recipe by Hiroshi called FRGMT B&W, which is in the Film Simulation menu in lieu of the Monochrome Film Simulation. This is the first official Fujifilm Recipe, and the first (as far as I’m aware) by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Fujifilm published the details of this Recipe within the GFX100RF Fragment Edition announcement, which means that anyone can use it, and not just those in Japan who purchase the limited-edition camera.
When I saw this, I knew that some of you would want to try the FRGMT B&W Recipe, so I shared it. I wasn’t going to make it an “official” Fuji X Weekly Recipe or include it in the Fuji X Weekly App unless I had permission to do so from those involved. I reached out to Fujifilm and asked for permission, but I knew it was a long shot. My request was forwarded up the chain all the way to Japan. I didn’t think the odds were very good, but, perhaps as a Christmas miracle, the answer came back pretty quickly. To my shock, yes, I do have permission, both from Fujifilm and from Fragment, to publish this Recipe. Wow!
Cheers – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5 – FRGMT B&W
It’s such an honor to get this permission, not only because it’s the first Recipe included in any of Fujifilm’s cameras, but also because it was created by Hiroshi Fujiwara. For those unaware, that’s a really big deal. Hiroshi has collaborated with Eric Clapton twice. He appeared on the big screen in Lost in Translation. If someone like Pharrell Williams created a Film Simulation Recipe and then gave me permission to include it on this website and in the Fuji X Weekly App, that would be fairly equivalent to this (obviously, there is only one Hiroshi Fujiwara).
The FRGMT B&W Recipe produces a contrasty and grainy black-and-white aesthetic. It reminds me of Ilford Delta 400 pushed one stop. I didn’t study or research that; it’s more of a “memory color” (as Fujifilm puts it) of using Ilford Delta 400 and push-processing it 25 years ago or so. I don’t believe this Recipe was intended to resemble any specific film or process, but if you were to ask me what film this Recipe most closely mimics, it’s Ilford Delta 400 pushed one stop. Again, that’s not based on research, but just what I remember from way back in my film days.
Shadow Shapes – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – FRGMT B&W
With the exception of the X-T3 and X-T30, this FRGMT B&W Recipe is compatible with all of the fourth and fifth generation models: Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III. It’s also compatible with the GFX100S, GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF. Because this Recipe uses Clarity set to something other than 0, there is a short storing pause after capturing a photo, with a similar delay as advancing to the next frame on a film camera. I want to give a big shoutout to both Fujifilm and Fragment for allowing me to publish this, and also to Hiroshi Fujiwara for creating it. Thank you!
Film Simulation: Acros (including +Ye, +R, or +G) Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC 0 & MG 0 (Off) Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue Highlight: +4 Shadow: +2 Sharpness: -4 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +5 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically) — Hiroshi says +1/3
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this FRGMT B&W Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E5, X-T5 and GFX100S II:
Notice – Gatlinburg, TN – Fujifilm X-E5
Regular – Gatlinburg, TN – Fujifilm X-E5
Abandoned Gas Pumps – Gatlinburg, TN – Fujifilm X-E5
Mercedes-Benz – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Broken Shelving – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
West Fork – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Fujifilm Photographer – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Monochrome Leaves – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Flowing Creek – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Lost Creek, Found – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Creek in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Rural Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Supai – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Rocks in the Sky – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Pirate – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Classic Design – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
The Man in Black & White – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Tall Bank, Empty Lot – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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A couple of days ago I saw that Fujifilm is releasing a limited run special-edition of the GFX100RF, designed by fashion designer, producer, and artist Hiroshi Fujiwara, called the GFX100RF Fragment Edition. It looks pretty much the same as a regular GFX100RF, except with smoother leather and a different engraving on the top plate. There’s also a few accessories, including a strap, lens hood, and more. The GFX100RF Fragment Edition will only be available in Japan. It’s pretty cool, I guess.
I didn’t think much of it until yesterday, when a reader emailed me to take a closer look. Aside from a couple of physical changes, there is one internal change to the camera. The Monochrome Film Simulation was removed, and in its place is a custom black-and-white Recipe called FRGMT BW created by Hiroshi. It’s Acros with “stronger grain, tweaked highlight and shadow tone curves, reduced sharpness, less noise reduction, more clarity, and a bit of positive exposure compensation.” This Recipe, instead of being found in C1-C7, is in the Film Simulation Menu.
This is quite interesting. First, before we let this fact slip by, the Recipe includes an exposure compensation boost, which currently isn’t possible to program. You have to adjust the exposure manually, which makes sense, but Fujifilm just demonstrated that they have the ability to include an exposure adjustment within a Recipe. Is this something we’ll see in the future? Perhaps so. Fujifilm also demonstrated that it’s possible to replace a Film Simulation with a Recipe. Maybe you don’t use PRO Neg. Std or Eterna Bleach Bypass or Sepia—wouldn’t it be nice to replace the ones that you don’t use with a Recipe? Or maybe you replace all of the Film Simulations in the Film Simulation Menu with Recipes? There’s a lot of room for customization, and Fujifilm just showed us that it’s possible for them to do it.
I think this is also an indication of what’s to come regarding the future of the Film Dial or Film Era Dial. I suspect that Fujifilm will open up the Film Dial to allow Recipes for all of the positions, and not just FS1/FS2/FS3 (on the X-E5 and X-T30 III, anyway). I suspect that the Film Era Dial will be hard-set Recipes designed by Fujifilm (or photographers they have partnered with), similar to FRGMT B&W. This is speculation, of course.
FRGMT BW Recipe — Fujifilm GFX100RF — Photo by Manabu Nakanishi via Fujifilm
I don’t want to read too much into this. It could be a one-time thing, and we’ll never see anything like this again. Nothing may come of it, other than this one special-edition model sold only in Japan. But it is intriguing to consider what it could possibly mean for future models.
So for those wondering what the FRGMT B&W Recipe is, well, here you go! It’s found on Fujifilm’s webpage for the GFX100RF Fragment Edition.
Film Simulation: Acros Grain: Strong / Large Highlight: +4 Shadow: +2 Sharpness: -4 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +5 Exposure Compensation: +1/3
Obviously not every setting is included, so let’s take a guess on the blanks. Most likely it is Dynamic Range Auto, White Balance Auto (0R & 0B for the WB Shift), Color Chrome Effect and Color Chrome FX Blue Off, Toning Off (WC 0 MG 0), and ISO up to 12800 (based on one of the sample pictures). So if you’re interested in trying it yourself, you absolutely can. In fact, here are a few of my photos, which look pretty good, reprocessed on my Fujifilm X-E5 using the FRGMT B&W Recipe (choosing DR200 in lieu of DR-Auto).
Coastal Photographer – San Francisco, CA – Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak Plus-X 125
This new Kodak Plus-X 125 Film Simulation Recipes comes to us curtesy of Dylan Van Matre. “The short story is that I’ve been a film shooter for a long time,” Dylan told me, “and one of my favorite films during that time has been Kodak Plus-X 125. When I moved to Fuji and discovered Film Simulation Recipes, one of the films I looked for was Kodak Plus-X 125. It was a favorite of mine during the early 90’s. I couldn’t find one published by someone else, so I endeavored to make my own. I enlisted the help of Anders Linborg to learn about Recipes and how to create them.”
“When I decided to try and create this Recipe,” Dylan continued, “I thought that I should try and learn from someone who has created ones that I enjoyed and felt were accurate. Anders with his Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe (and others) immediately came to mind. I emailed him inquiring about his creation process. Anders was kind enough to respond, and he gave me a great check list on how to go about creating a Recipes. I download the specification sheet for Plus-X 125 film and found the spectrum analysis chart. I found the most prominent peak on the chart and made a note on the frequency that it’s located. That’s how I decide upon my white balance.”
Irrigation Pipe – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Plus-X 125
“From there I picked the response curve that I felt was most appropriate,” Dylan said, “which led me to the Acros film simulation. After that I used the reference images I had, which were a bunch of Plus-X scans from the early 90’s, and I starting shooting with my Fujifilm camera. I’ve shot in all kinds of lighting conditions over the last couple years, making tweaks here and there. After some fine-tuning, I had created a Recipe that I feel most represents Plus-X 125 film. I want to thank Andors Linborg for his amazing advise, and I want to thank Ritchie for his amazing website.”
Included in the email was a private link to some of Dylan’s photos captured with this Kodak Plus-X 125 Film Simulation Recipe, as well as some of his scans of actual Kodak Plus-X 125 film. It was quite obvious to me comparing the two that this Recipe is a good match, and Dylan did an excellent job creating it. He certainly put in a lot of research and effort to get this right. Thank you, Dylan Van Matre, for creating and sharing this Recipe!
Cactus & Barbed Wire Fence – Rock Springs, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodak Plus-X 125
Plus-X was a long-running classic B&W negative film by Kodak, known for its fine grain, sharpness, and moderate contrast that made it popular for both professional and amateur photographers. Originally introduced in 1938 as a motion picture film, it evolved over the decades. The ISO 125 version was released in 1954. After more than 70 years in production, Kodak discontinued Plus-X in 2010, with the last batch shipping in 2011, marking the end of an era for one of the company’s longest-running emulsions. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) and X-Trans V cameras, as well as newer GFX models.
Film Simulation: Acros (including +Ye, +R, or +G) Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC 0 & MG 0 (Off) Dynamic Range: DR200 Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +9 Red & +9 Blue Highlight: -1 Shadow: +1 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to -2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Plus-X 125 Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T5, X100VI, X-E4 & GFX100S II:
Distant Dust Storm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Estrella Mountains from White Tank Foothills – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spewing Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Truck Junk Yard – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Table 18 – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Sunlit Banister – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Saguaro & Dark Storm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifim X-E4
Closed for Storm Damage – Navarro, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Post in the Water – Bodega Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Coastal Cove – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Wild at Heart – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Photo by Amanda Roesch
Angled Doorway – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
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Monochrome Founders – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Agfa 400S
This is my first B&W Film Simulation Recipe for Fujifilm full spectrum cameras, like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”). It’s not for “normal” cameras; you must have a full spectrum X-Trans IV or X-Trans V model, which requires an expensive and invasive procedure from a third-party vendor like LifePixel, Kolari Vision, or Spenser’s Camera. Otherwise, the Fujifilm X-T4 ES is a full spectrum camera (is sensitive to light outside the visible gamut) briefly offered by Fujifilm to the general public. As of this writing, I believe that you can still buy the Fujifilm X-T4 ES from B&H, but it requires a phone call or stopping by in-person, and cannot be order from the internet.
The reason why it took me so long to publish a B&W Recipe for full spectrum IR cameras is because I had trouble creating one that I was fully satisfied with. I experimented with many different filters and settings, but just couldn’t find the right combination that produced the results that I desired. Initially, this was another one of those failed experiments, until I added a third filter (QB2), and instantly fell in love with the aesthetic that this Recipe creates.
Water in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Agfa 400S
The emulsion that this Recipe is most reminiscent of is Agfa AviPhot 400S, which is also sold under Rollei Retro 400S, Rollei 400 IR, Japan Camera Hunter Street Pan 400, Astrum Foto 400, and Svema Foto 400. This film was made for aerial surveillance—hence: AviPhot, which is short for “Aviation Photography”, and “S” for surveillance—and is both infrared and UV sensitive, although only a little. In order to get good IR results, the film requires a 720nm filter and adding two or three stops to the exposure.
This Agfa 400S Film Simulation Recipe doesn’t use a 720nm filter; instead, it requires three filters: Kolari Vision IR Chrome, Tiffen Deep Yellow 15, and QB2 blue. The QB2 was given to me and I have no idea what brand it is, but here are some that I found online: JTSF, PMP, Nantong, Shanghai Longway, Tangsinuo. This is a fairly uncommon filter (that’s why none of the name brands make it), but it is used by some in the IR world (my Cotton Candy Chrome Recipe also uses the QB2 filter). I’m not sure if the order matters, but I have the Deep Yellow filter first (closest to the lens), the IR Chrome next, and the QB2 last (furthest from the lens).
Tree in Grey – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Agfa 400S
While this Recipe was designed on and intended for the Fujifilm X-T4 ES camera, it should be fully compatible with any full spectrum converted X-Trans IV (except the X-T3 and X-T30) and X-Trans V models. For a grainier look, use higher ISOs, such as 6400 and 12800 (Water in the Desert is an ISO 12800 image). For a cleaner look, use lower ISOs.
Filters: Tiffen Deep Yellow 15, Kolari Vision IR Chrome, & QB2 Blue Film Simulation: Acros+R Monochromatic Color: WC 0 MG 0 (Off) Dynamic Range: DR200 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 2500K, +9 Red & -2 Blue Highlight: +4 Shadow: +4 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Agfa 400S Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T4 ES:
Sunlit Jon – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Sunglasses – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Flower Girl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Photographer Jon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Hand in Hand – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Dogs out a Truck Window – Laveen, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Dramatic Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Lamp Post – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Second Floor Windows – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Neighborhood Eucalyptus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
White Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Grey Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
17th Green – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Closed Umbrella in Monochrome – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Second Floor – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Sunlit Stucco – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Empty Cart – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Shade – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Coffee Work – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Open Umbrellas – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
White Bougainvillea 1 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
White Bougainvillea 2 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Palm Fronds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
V Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Evening Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Tis but a Scratch– Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Desert Road – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Last Light on the Peaks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Cash for your Scrap – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Kentmere Pan 400 – Photo by Jon Roesch
Even though Kentmere Pan 400 is a fairly new film, the history of it is a bit grey (pun intended). Harman Technologies is the parent company of both Ilford and Kentmere; prior to the Harman purchase, Kentmere did not produce any photographic films (they did make photo paper), so it would seem that Kentmere 400, which was introduced in 2009, is essentially an Ilford emulsion. Sometime a few years ago “Pan” was added to the name, although it is unclear if the emulsion was modified, or if it stayed the same and the name change was only marketing.
Kentmere Pan 400 is a low-budget black-and-white negative film marketed towards photography students. Harman has stated that Kentmere Pan 400 is similar to Ilford HP5 Plus 400, and the reason that they can sell it for cheaper is that it contains less silver. For this reason some people have speculated that it is simply HP5 Plus with less silver; however, Ilford also makes a Pan 400 film, and so some others have speculated that Kentmere Pan 400 is actually Ilford Pan 400 with less silver. Oh, and then there’s AgfaPhoto APX 400 (2013 and onward, anyway), which apparently is the same emulsion as Kentmere Pan 400, and possibly even Rollei RPX 400. It’s hard to know exactly what the truth is, other than Kentmere Pan 400 is a cheap B&W film made by Ilford, who has produced many excellent B&W films for a long time.
This Film Simulation Recipe was developed by Dan Allen. He shot a few rolls of Kentmere Pan 400 film, and during that time also shot a bunch of frames side-by-side with his Fujifilm X-Pro3. Using X RAW Studio, he fiddled with the Fujifilm files until they closely matched the Kentmere scans. One film can produce many different looks—depending on a host of factors, including how shot, developed, and printed and/or scanned—and even within this experiment, Dan discovered that there were some variances; these settings aim at the middle ground of those results. For many pictures, this Recipe is strikingly similar to the film, and you can tell that he put a lot of work and care into creating it. Thank you, Dan!
Lockers – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Kentmere Pan 400
This Kentmere Pan 400 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with all X-Trans IV cameras—except the X-T3 and X-T30—and all X-Trans V cameras: the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, and X100VI (as of this writing). I’m sure you can also use it on newer GFX models, although it might render very slightly different (try it anyway). Because Kentmere Pan 400 film is intended for student photographers, I had my 14-year-old son, Jonathan, use this Recipe—half of the pictures in this article are his.
Film Simulation: Acros+G Monochromatic Color (Toning): Off (WC 0 & MG 0) Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +7 Red & +6 Blue Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Highlight: +1 Shadow: +1 Sharpness: +3 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +1 ISO: up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kentmere Pan 400 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Rentals – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Street Lamp – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Power Pole & Street Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Slug Bug – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Crushed Monster – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Back Alley – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Dark Parking Garage – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
I C – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Roadrunner – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Table & Chair – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
FED 5c & Yosemite – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Snowman – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Photo by Jon Roesch
Nicolas in a Window – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
White Flower – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Courtyard – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Education Building – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Twin Palms & Building Corner – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Two Palms, One Shadow – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
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The story that I found in that email was absolutely incredible! Whether or not you ever use the Film Simulation Recipe that Anders sent to me, the story itself makes this article a worthwhile read. I was (and still am) just blown away by it! It’s funny how life comes full circle in surprising ways sometimes.
“Some years back,” Anders Lindborg wrote me, “I found myself being totally photographically stuck. People liked my photos, but I could feel there was something missing from them and I thought they were still too amateurish. By chance, a photography magazine published an article called Learning How to See in which they mentioned a photographer named John Sevigny, an art teacher at a university in Mexico City. The magazine referenced Mr. Sevigny because he often talked with his students—and had also written some papers—about the subject of the article. Anyway, I started searching the internet and found many articles about him and his work. I also found some of his papers on the subject. Afterwards, I noticed that something gradually happened to my photos, and I realized that I could often see a deeper meaning in random ordinary things, people’s expressions and behavior. It really helped me, and I swore to never forget about this guy.”
“Life is funny,” Anders continued, “and I think I’m slowly starting to believe in this karma stuff. As it happens, awhile back I was contacted out of the blue by no other than John Sevigny himself! He had apparently found my stuff published on Fuji X Weekly very interesting and asked very kindly if I could help him out with the final touches on his upcoming book. The project that he had been working on was really heavy stuff, so he was temporarily burned out and needed some technical assistance, which I gladly provided. After the material for the book was finished, we continued chatting and I’m now proud to call him my friend.”
“After weeks of talking about photography, John mentioned that he really missed shooting with Kodak T-Max P3200 that he used to use all of the time while working as a news photographer. So, he said, how about making a recipe for it? I couldn’t resist, so we started developing it immediately. John provided me with all the information about the emulsion that I could possibly need, including a bunch of his own 25-year-old scans, but most important was his experience of shooting it daily for years. According to John, anytime there was a request for something that was going to be an article inside the newspaper, that’s the film they used since the available light would almost always be ranging from bad to worse. It didn’t matter if it was a sports event or a murder, they used Kodak T-Max P3200. After reading up about it (since I never shot it myself, sadly), I understood why: it was optimized to create sharp and (reasonably) detailed photos in generally bad light.”
Now Serving Bacon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodak T-Max P3200 Recipe
“Much care and testing has been put into this recipe by both John and myself,” Anders concluded, “and since John had all this experienced with the film, he had to be the one to officially approve it, which he did. I couldn’t be happier with the results we got from the tests! I actually put his scans in a photo album together with my test shots and the only thing revealing was the lens quality. When using the recipe with a vintage lens, I promise that you’ll have a really hard time telling your photos apart from the real film! Even some of the film’s tell-tale quirks have been replicated.”
Wow! Thank you, Anders Lindborg and John Sevigny, for creating this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe and allowing me to share it with the Fujifilm community on Fuji X Weekly—your work is much appreciated! I really love how Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes are bringing people together across the world—it’s truly amazing! As great as this Recipe is—and it is great—the story behind it is even better.
Like Anders, I have also (sadly) never shot with Kodak T-Max P3200 black-and-white negative film (I went with Ilford Delta 3200 instead). Originally released in 1988 (the ISO 100 and ISO 400 versions were released two years prior), Kodak discontinued T-Max P3200 in 2012, but reintroduced it (with an “improved” emulsion) in 2018. It’s actually an ISO 800 (some say ISO 1000) film that labs automatically develop with two stops of push-processing, unless you tell them otherwise. But you can shoot it at ISO 800 and not push or ISO 400 and pull one stop (for less contrast) or ISO 1600 and push one stop. Some (brave? crazy? desperate?) photographers even shot it at ISO 6400 and pushed it three stops! Kodak T-Max P3200 can basically be anywhere from an ISO 400 to an ISO 6400 film, and it can go from a fairly flat and fine-grained emulsion to a punchy and gritty film, just depending on how you shot and developed it.
With this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe, the higher the ISO you shoot with, the more it will resemble shooting the film at a higher ISO and push-processing, and the lower the ISO it will more resemble shooting at ISO 800 and not pushing in development. In other words, you are going to get somewhat different results at ISO 640 than ISO 6400; I especially appreciate how this Recipe looks from ISO 3200 to ISO 12800. You will need to consider if you want a cleaner or more grainy aesthetic, and choose an ISO that will produce those results.
If you have a Fujifilm X-Trans IV camera (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-S10, X-T30 II) or X-Trans V (X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, X-S20, and any other released after publication), I invite you to give this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe a try! It’s not compatible with the X-T3 or X-T30 or X-Trans III, unfortunately; however, if you ignore Toning, Grain size, and Clarity, it should still produce good results, so don’t be afraid to give it a try. This Recipe should also work with GFX cameras, although I haven’t tested it and have no firsthand experience if it will look similar or not.
Film Simulation: Acros (orAcros+Y, Acros+R, Acros+G) Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC -1 & MG -1 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5500K, +4 Red & +7 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +3 Sharpness: +2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +1 ISO: up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5, X-E4 and X100V cameras:
Tall Flower Vine – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Tiny White Blooms – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Garden Bulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Forest Stream – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
38th Way – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Palm in the Contrail Sky – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Tall Cactus – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Highlight & Shadow Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Backyard Barrel – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Water Wheel – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Castle Rock – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jet Above the Rocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cloud Above the Desert – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Arizona’s High Desert – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Oak Creek & Cathedral Rock – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Rocks & Big Sky – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Busy Parking Lot – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Delilah – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sunlit Suburban Tree Branch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Peaceful Pool – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Josh by the Pool – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Closed Umbrella 2 – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Towel on Chair – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Empty Bench – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Please Don’t Litter – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilom X100V
Basket – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Hoop & Pine – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Bus Rider – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Camera Fight 1 – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Camera Fight 2 – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sisters in the Back of the Bus – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Lady with Paw-Print Earring – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Joy’s Smile – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Girl Along a Wall – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Preparing Hands – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sink Full of Dirty Dishes – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Fake Plant – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Floor – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Table Lamp – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Outdoor Patio Lights – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Betty Elyse – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
ISO 640 vs ISO 12800:
ISO 640 Crop
ISO 12800 Crop
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Of the different faux filter options for Acros, +Y is the one I use the least. I think it goes back to my film days when I used color filters with B&W film. I would select Orange or Red before Yellow, because Yellow is fairly subtle, but the advantage of the Yellow filter is that it doesn’t block as much light. Of course, the faux filters on Fujifilm cameras don’t affect the exposure like real filters with film. Anyway, recognizing that I infrequently use Acros+Y, I set out to make a Film Simulation Recipe that uses +Y and produces an aesthetic that I like. I think it is important to challenge myself sometimes, so if there’s some setting or gear or option that I don’t use often, forcing myself to use it helps me to grow as a photographer. That’s why I made this recipe.
I wanted something with an overall darker curve, so that it would produce a moody look. Maybe deep blacks reminiscent of Tri-X, and maybe a push-process feel. I didn’t have any specific film in mind, but I’m reminded of this time that I push-processed a roll of Ilford Delta 400, but inadvertently got it wrong—I underexposed two stops, and only had the lab push it by one stop, so the pictures were largely underexposed, and they were darker and moodier (yet less contrasty and grainy) than I had intended. This isn’t exactly the same as that, but not too dissimilar, either, so that’s why I call this recipe Moody Monochrome.
Early Blossoms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Moody Monochrome”
Because this film simulation recipe uses Clarity, it is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. If you have an X-T3 or X-T30 or X-Trans III camera, ignore Clarity and Grain size, and use a diffusion filter, like a 10% CineBloom or 1/4 Black Pro Mist, to get similar results.
Acros+Y Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Fluorescent 3, -4 Red & -9 Blue ISO: 3200 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Moody Monochrome” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Stop West – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Watch For Falling Bikes – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Sun Beams – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Tower in the Middle of Nowhere – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Path Through The Grass – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Wetland Boardwalk – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Wetland Grass – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Creek in the Trees – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Creek, Stick & Vines – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Log Above The Water – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Grey Brush – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Cat on a Log – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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Old Tractor 15 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Analog Monochrome”
This film simulation recipe began as an attempt to fulfill a need. You see, there are many Fujifilm cameras (like the X-H1) that are not capable of saving the White Balance Shift within Custom Presets, but there’s a solution: if each Custom Preset uses a different White Balance type, the camera will remember one White Balance Shift per type, and you won’t have to remember to adjust the shift when switching presets. This makes the camera experience more enjoyable.
The problem is that most film simulation recipes use the Auto, Daylight, or Kelvin White Balance types, and you have seven Custom Preset slots. The remaining White Balance types have a limited number of choices. Prior to this recipe, Incandescent had only one option: Eterna Bleach Bypass. Now, if you are using this solution, you can choose either this Analog Monochrome recipe or the Eterna Bleach Bypass recipe—one color and one B&W—for one of your C1-C7 slots.
Doll – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Analog Monochrome”
I didn’t model this Analog Monochrome recipe after any specific film. Instead, I simply set out to create some settings that look good. This recipe has nice contrast with deep blacks, and whites that are bright yet don’t easily clip. I set Grain to Weak for a clean look, but feel free to try Strong for a grittier look. I feel that it has a very nice classic B&W film aesthetic that some of you will really appreciate.
Acros+G Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -1 Grain Effect: Weak White Balance: Incandescent, -8 Red & -8 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Analog Monochrome” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-H1:
Minolta SRT303b – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Car Console – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Jon Smiling for the Camera – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Joy Laughing at a Funny Message – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Horse Close Up – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
You Shall Not Pass – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Jesus Loves You! – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Friendly Neighborhood Snowman – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Winter Walking Path – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Farmington Creek in Winter – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Three Ducks in the Creek – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Snow and Creek – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Winter Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Stump In Snow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Wild Grass in Snow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Melting Snow In The Tall Grass – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
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Freightliner – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Ilford XP2 Super 400”
I was asked to create a film simulation recipe for Ilford XP2 Super 400 monochrome film. This is a currently-available black-and-white negative film that’s designed to be in developed in color negative (C41) chemistry. While this is unusual it’s definitely not unique. I’ve shot with some of these films before (namely Kodak BW400CN), and they’re surprisingly good, but a disadvantage is their archival characteristics. While I’ve used many Ilford films in the past (Delta 100 and Delta 400 were my two favorites back in the day), I’ve never shot with XP2 Super, and so I have no firsthand experience with it. Thankfully, I was able to find some good sample images (and other information) to help with the process. The film is somewhat contrasty and bright with fairly fine grain. It can be shot anywhere from ISO 50 to ISO 800, although ISO 400 is what Ilford suggests to shoot it at; whatever ISO you choose will affect the exact outcome.
I wasn’t having good luck with this recipe at first, but as I experimented, I stumbled into what I believe is a fairly accurate facsimile to the film. The White Balance settings (combined with Acros+R) turned out to be the key. Getting the exposure correct can sometimes be tricky, depending on the light and scene, so that’s why the “typical” exposure compensation is such a wide range.
Farmington Train Station – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Ilford XP2 Super 400”
This “Ilford XP2 Super 400” film simulation recipe is compatible with all X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 and X-T30. If you have a newer X-Trans IV camera, you can use this recipe, but you’ll have to decide on the Grain size (I suggest Small).
Acros+R Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -2 Grain Effect: Strong White Balance: 10000K, +7 Red & +7 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Ilford XP2 Super 400” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-H1:
Francis Peak on a Sunny Day – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Waterway – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Reed by the Lake – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Swan Season Closed – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Do Not Block Access – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Boat Launch Area – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Littering Prohibited – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Long Road to Nowhere – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Rural Tractor – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Cat & Honey Bucket – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Caterpillar – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Tractor – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Lamp & Side Mirrors – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
A Y – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Empty Benches – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Tracks with no Train – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
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Windows Within Windows – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Monochrome Negative”
It’s been awhile since I created a black-and-white film simulation recipe. Part of it is that my favorite recipe is Kodak Tri-X 400, and I often choose to shoot with that. Another factor is that the differences between monochrome recipes are often much more subtle than color. For this, I didn’t start out with the intention of making a black-and-white recipe—in fact, it began with Classic Negative—and I wasn’t satisfied with the look, so I switched to Acros, and immediately liked what I saw. A few small changes later, and this recipe was born. It’s not modeled after any specific film, so I named it Monochrome Negative, as it does have a nice film-like quality to it.
The trick to this film simulation recipe is underexposure. I found myself most often lowering the exposure by 1/3 or 2/3 stops (many of my recipes often call for the opposite). Highlight set to +3 will keep the image bright, while the underexposure will deepen the shadows and provide good contrast. Obviously each exposure should be judged individually, so don’t be afraid to deviate from this advice.
This recipe was designed on and intended for the Fujifilm X100V, which has a newer X-Trans IV sensor, but because I didn’t use any of the new tools, such as Clarity and the Color Chrome Effects, this recipe is compatible with all X-Trans III & IV cameras. On X-Pro3 and newer, choose Grain size Small; on all other cameras, which don’t have Grain size as an option, simply select Grain Strong. If your camera has the Acros film simulation, you can use this recipe!
Acros (+Y, +R, +G) Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +3 Shadow: 0 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -2 Clarity: 0 Grain Effect: Strong, Small (Strong for those cameras without Grain Size) Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, 0 Red & 0 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to -2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Monochrome Negative” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
1104B – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Withering Flowers Along a Wall – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
City Roses – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Backlit Turning Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Pikachu is a Little Hungry – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Space Fish – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Release – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Geese by a Tackle Box – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Do or Don’t Follow the Crowd – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Approaching Storm – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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Fuji X Weekly reader Thomas Schwab took my Fujicolor Superia 1600 recipe and made a few changes, most notably Acros instead of Classic Negative. There are a few other differences, such as Grain and White Balance, but it’s mostly the Superia 1600 recipe, yet in monochrome instead of color. There never was a black-and-white Superia film, but it is possible to develop Superia in black-and-white chemistry as a monochrome film (technically, this is cross-processing). While there might be some similarities to Superia film developed as B&W and this recipe, they’re completely coincidental, as these settings aren’t intended to mimic anything specific.
Even though this B&W Superia recipe isn’t intended to look like any particular film, it nonetheless produces very nice results. It calls for a little Toning, which resembles a quick Sepia bath, a common archival technique in monochrome printing, but that’s optional. The Clarity setting will slow down the camera considerably, so be aware of that. This recipe is only compatible (as of this writing) with the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4 cameras.
Acros (+Y, +R, +G) Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: 0 Shadow: +2 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -1 Clarity: -4 Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong Toning: WC +2 MG 0 White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this B&W Superia film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Sunlight & Structure – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Urban Canopy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Bakery Thriftshop – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Curved Corner – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100V
We’re Open! – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Oct 09 – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Window Vase – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Monochrome Leaf – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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Photographer Omar Gonzales made a video about turning your Fujifilm X camera into the Fujifilm Noir, a dedicated black-and-white camera. This post will make much more sense if you watch the video first, so take a moment to do that right now if you haven’t already done so.
Did you watch it? Don’t read anything below until the video is finished!
Done? Okay, let’s move on.
I made my own Fujifilm Noir camera using my X-T30. I have the silver version, so gaffer tape didn’t make a whole lot of sense for the new label that I wanted to attach to the front. I asked my daughter to create something using paper and pencils that might better match the camera. For those wondering, these labels are available for $25 each (only kidding, of course). And, yes, gluing a paper label to a camera is much less heart-stopping than sandpapering a camera.
The Fujifilm Noir camera.
My Fujifilm Noir is an X-T30 with an Asahi Super-Takumar 55mm f/2 attached to the front. I screwed an 1/2 Black Pro Mist filter to the lens (not pictured, sorry) to further enhance the film-like aesthetic. I shot the camera in manual mode using a black-and-white film simulation recipe that I created just for this project. What’s the film simulation recipe? Well, you’ll find it below!
Acros+G Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +4 Shadow: +1 Grain: Strong Color Chrome Effect: Off Toning: 0 Sharpening: -4 Noise Reduction: -4 White Balance: 2500K, +9 Red & +9 Blue Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to +2/3 (typically) ISO 3200
This film simulation recipe was actually an experiment (from when I was creating my B&W IR recipe) that I didn’t love, but I thought it was good enough to use here. I won’t make it an official recipe, this is simply a bonus for you. Feel free to use it in your own photography, as it’s compatible with all X-Trans III and IV cameras. It reminds me of Kodak BW400CN, a black-and-white film that used the C-41 (color) development process. These settings weren’t intended to look like that film, but that’s what it reminds me of.
Kodak BW400CN was not likely ever a popular choice for Noir photography. Noir is French for Black, and Noir photographs are often dark and moody, inspired by 1940’s through 1960’s monochrome crime movies. This recipe isn’t especially Noir, but I used it anyway. There are probably ten different film simulation recipes that are more appropriate for Noir than this one.
I didn’t follow all of Omar’s rules. I shot RAW+JPEG, but only because I used a 2GB memory card, which has enough space for 27 exposures. On a 24-exposure roll of film, you could typically get 25 or 26 frames on it if you were careful. 27 exposures was possible but not commonly achieved (outside of disposable cameras). To make this more of a film-like experience, I used the 2GB SD Card to limit myself to a maximum of 27 exposures, and I refused to change the “film” (recipe) until I had exposed the card. I deleted the RAW files and just used the out-of-camera JPEGs. I got the memory card idea from Fuji X Weekly reader Josh Gagnon.
All of the pictures below were from the first 27-exposure “roll” of “Kodak BW400CN” that I captured using my “Fujifilm Noir” camera. Yes, they’re all camera-made JPEGs, unedited except for some minor cropping here and there.
Smile – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Lamp Top – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Girl, Drawing – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Tortilla Flour – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Drink – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Top Ten – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Building Stack – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Building Tree – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
TheNature of Structure – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Campus Skateboarder – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
One of You – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
$5 Pizza Bus – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Fallen Tree at the Capital – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Fallen Tree – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Tree & Stormy Mountain – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm Noir
Not bad for one “roll” of “film” on my “Noir” camera, right?
Now the ball is in your court! Turn your Fujifilm X camera into a Fujifilm Noir camera and shoot some black-and-white pictures with it! I don’t have any specific rules, but try to give yourself some limitations because limitations improve art. I enjoyed the 2GB card thing. Share with me your Noir pictures using #fujixweekly on Instagram. Let me know in the comments if you like this project and what you think of this “Kodak BW400CN” film simulation recipe!
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Stop Here on Infrared – Yellowstone NP, WY – Fujifilm X100V – “Black & White Infrared”
Infrared photographing is capturing light beyond the visible spectrum. It requires special film, or a digital sensor that has had the infrared filter removed. Any digital camera has the potential to be infrared sensitive, but the process isn’t easy or cheap. Full spectrum photography is similar to infrared, but also includes ultraviolet and visible light (not just infrared light). With full spectrum photography you can choose by the use of filters which light you want to capture. You can use filters with infrared, too, to control what light comes through, but not to the extent of full-spectrum. A characteristic of both infrared and full-spectrum in black-and-white is deep contrast, with dark skies and white foliage. One of my favorite photographers is Mitch Dobrowner, who converted his Canon cameras to full-spectrum for dramatic monochrome storm photography.
When I purchased my Fujifilm X-T1, I had the intentions of converting it to full-spectrum, but the cost of the conversion has prevented me from doing it. I still hope to do so, maybe later this year or perhaps next year. We’ll see. But I figured out a way to simulate something that’s in the neighborhood of infrared or full-spectrum on my Fujifilm X100V without any conversions. In the right light and with the right subject, it can be quite convincing! Even though you are only using the visible spectrum of light, it can appear as though you are actually doing infrared photography. Amazing!
Even in situations where this recipe doesn’t resemble infrared or full-spectrum, it will still produce a dramatic, high-contrast look that you might find appealing. Those who have said that Acros+R doesn’t actually resemble the use of a red filter on black-and-white film will appreciate these settings. Many landscape photographers, including Ansel Adams, employed a red filter to achieve a dark sky (for example, Moonrise Over Hernandez).
White Tree Black Sky – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Black & White Infrared”
The trick is to use a low Kelvin white balance in conjunction with a dramatic white balance shift when using Acros+R. I got the idea from Fuji X Weekly reader James Clinich, who uses between 3800K and 4500K with a 0 Red & +8 shift to achieve a darker sky, which is something you can apply to other B&W recipes if you’d like to better mimic the use of a red filter. I just took his idea a step further to make it even more dramatic for this recipe.
My Black & White Infrared film simulation recipe can be difficult to use. I find that it doesn’t always work well. It can be very tough to gauge the best exposure, and I’ve had to go anywhere from -1 to +3 on the exposure compensation dial to get it right. It’s one of the more difficult to use recipes that I’ve created, yet it is highly rewarding. If you like dramatic black and white photographs, you’ll want to give this one a try! As of this writing, it’s only compatible with the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4 cameras.
Acros+R
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +4
Shadow: +3
B&W Toning: 0
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -4
Clarity: +5
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: 2750K, -5 Red & +9 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Black & White Infrared film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Crafts & Hobbies – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Cloud Above The Wall – Draper, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Flags Over IKEA Infrared – Draper, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Pinnacle – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Suburban Abstract – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Suites – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Paved Paradise – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Accessible Parking – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Done Shopping – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Soda Glass – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Couch Stripes – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Flowers in the Sky – Big Sky, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Grey Hills – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Abandoned Dream Infrared – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Abandoned House by the Hill IR – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Henry’s Fork River – Island Park, ID – Fujifilm X100V
Upper Red Rock Lake IR – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Red Rock Road Monochrome – Red Rock Lakes NWR, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Aspen Leaves Infrared – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Illuminated Tree – West Valley City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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Leaves in the Forest – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200 – “Kodak Tri-X 400”
The number one black-and-white film simulation recipe that I’ve been asked to create is Kodak Tri-X 400, but I’ve never been satisfied with my own attempts. Thankfully for you, Fuji X Weekly reader Anders Lindborg (Instagram) was able to do it! This is brilliant, and I’m sure you’ll love it. It’s the only B&W recipe I’m using on my Fujifilm X100V right now.
Kodak introduced Tri-X in the early 1940’s, and in the 1950’s they began selling it in 35mm format. Ever since, it has been the “standard” high-ISO black-and-white film for photographers. It’s been made in ISO 160, 200, 320 and 400 versions; this recipe is based on Tri-X 400. Kodak re-engineered Tri-X 400 in 2007 with finer grain and lower contrast, but it’s still nearly identical to the old stock.
Anders actually made three recipes in one: low-contrast, mid-contrast, and high-contrast. Tri-X, like most films, can be made more contrasty or less contrasty based on how it’s developed (chemicals used and/or development times) or printed (contrast filters). The recipe further down this article is the mid-contrast version. For low contrast, set Highlight to -1 and Shadow to +2. For high contrast, set Highlight to +1 and Shadow to +4. This film simulation recipe was designed for the X-T3 and X-T30, but I changed a couple of things for the X100V: I set Clarity to +4 (which isn’t available on the X-T3 and X-T30) and Grain to Strong & Large (on the X-T3 and X-T30, Grain is set to Strong). Because it adds contrast, setting Clarity to +4 actually makes this look more like the high-contrast version. If you are using this on the X100V, X-Pro3 or X-T4, feel free to try all three contrast versions, with or without Clarity, to see which you like better. For X-Trans III cameras, which don’t have Color Chrome Effect, you can still use this recipe; while it won’t look exactly the same, it will still look very similar. In other words, even though the title says “Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe” you can actually use it on any camera with the Acros film simulation—I’ve tried it on an X-T30 and X-T20, and it looks great!
Forest Edge – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600 – “Kodak Tri-X 400”
I found that this recipe looks best when set to ISO 1600 or higher. From ISO 1600 to 3200, the results more resemble newer Tri-X 400 film. From ISO 6400 to ISO 12800, the results more resemble older Tri-X 400 film. I want to give a big thank-you to Anders Lindborg for creating this recipe, sharing it, and allowing me to publish it here—you are appreciated! Thank you!
Acros (+Y, +R, +G)
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: 0
Shadow: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: +1
Clarity: +4
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off
White Balance: Daylight,+9 Red & -9 Blue
ISO: ISO 1600 – 12800
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Tri-X 400 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Fallen Trunk – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
The Forest – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Light in a Dark Canopy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Sunlight & Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800
Monochrome Backlit Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Drops on a Window – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Half Leaf In The Road – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Footstep – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Barrier – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Corner Benches – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 6400
Drinking Fountains – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Feel Like A Kid Again – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Walking at an Amusement Park – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 1600
Waiting at the Exit – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Diagonal Light Boy – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800
FED 5c Film Camera – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Coffee Grounds in a Filter – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Rainbow Feet on the Floor – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Girl in Zebra Shirt – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800
Rainy Day Siblings – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Level Up – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800
Wet Leaf in the Grass – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 5000
Wet Tree Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Leaf of a Different Color – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Emptiness – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Empty Boxes in an Abandoned Home – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800
Nobody’s Home – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
White Truck – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 3200
Dead End Night – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800
Trolley Bus – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800
Wrong Way – Centerville, UT – Fujifilm X100V – ISO 12800
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Ball Flowers – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Cyanotype”
Cyanotype is an early photographic process that produces blue prints. It was invented in 1842 by Sir John Herschel, and was popular in Victorian England. The chemicals needed are simple: ferric ammonium citrate and potassium ferricyanid. It’s a contact process, so positives have to be placed right over the paper. Sunlight or UV light is required for the exposure. Cyanotypes are pretty simple, and anyone can do them at home.
I thought it would be fun to make a film simulation recipe to mimic cyanotype prints. Fujifilm X-Trans IV cameras have the ability to tone black-and-white pictures, either warm or cool. By toning the pictures blue, I was able to get in the neighborhood of cyanotype photography. Unfortunately, going all the way cool, which is -9 on toning, is only marginally blue enough to pass for cyanotype. Still, this was a fun experiment. If you are bored, why not give it a try yourself?
Blue Blossom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Cyanotype”
Acros
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +3
Shadow: +3
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -4
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Toning: -9
White Balance: Auto ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Cyanotype” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:
Orbit – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Caged Bloom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Blue Bloom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Succulent Blue – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Light Bulb Blues – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Stems – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Welcome – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Daffodil Blue – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Falling Water – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Post & Wire – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Threatening – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Growth in the Rocky Place – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
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Light on the Wall – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Monochrome Kodachrome”
Kodachrome was a black-and-white film. No, really, it was! The color dyes were actually added during development. The process to develop Kodachrome color transparencies was complex and toxic. As demand for the film decreased and Kodak experienced financial troubles, both the film and the chemicals to develop it were discontinued. If you still have some undeveloped Kodachrome film sitting around, there’s absolutely no place in the world that can process it; that is, except as black-and-white negatives. It’s true: Kodachrome can be developed to this day as a black-and-white film!
While I think that this recipe does more-or-less mimic the look of Kodachrome developed as black-and-white, that’s not necessarily the intent of it. This recipe began as an experiment by Fuji X Weekly reader Thomas Schwab, who created the Urban Vintage Chrome recipe. He took my Vintage Kodachrome recipe and replaced the Classic Chrome film simulation with Acros, Monochrome and Sepia, and the results were quite interesting! I made a couple of minor adjustments to create this recipe. This is definitely a joint effort, and it wouldn’t exist without Thomas Schwab’s experiments and willingness to share the results. Thank you!
What I like about this Monochrome Kodachrome film simulation recipe is that it has a great film-like quality to it. This recipe pairs especially well with vintage lenses (I used an Asahi Super-Takumar 28mm for about half of these pictures). Even though it says “Fujifilm X-T30” in the title, it can be used on any X-Trans III & IV camera. You can also use this same recipe with the Monocrome+R film simulation, for a slightly different result.
Acros+R
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +4
Shadow: -2
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: +1
Grain Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Toning: 0
White Balance: AWB, 0 Red & +9 Blue ISO: Auto, ISO 3200 to ISO 12800
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Monochrome Kodachrome film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:
Roman – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Cleaning Cart – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Fake Potted Plant – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tree Shadow on a Brick Wall – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Small Bridge – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Rural Road – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Monochrome Mountain Landscape – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
B&W Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tennis Swing – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Engaged In Television – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Little Jo – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Hand Washing – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Faceless – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Muffins – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Pronto! – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Daylight Balanced – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
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Vintage Bolsey Camera – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Split-Toned B&W”
While creating my “Bleach Bypass” film simulation recipe, which requires double exposures, I also discovered how to split-tone black-and-white pictures in-camera using double exposures. Split toning was originally a darkroom technique where one would give their black-and-white print a bath in two different toning chemicals, which resulted in shadows and highlights having two different colors. There are many different ways to split tone and many different potential results. This Split-Toned B&W recipe loosely mimics the aesthetic of ferrocyanide toning (blue) with diluted sepia (reddish-brown). You can get similar results very easily with software, but it’s fun to achieve a split tone effect straight out of camera.
For this recipe, you’ll capture the first exposure as normal. I find that increasing the exposure by 1/3 to 2/3 stop over what you might normally do produces better results. For the second exposure, photograph blue paper. I used an 8.5″ x 11″ medium-blue construction paper for my pictures. I like to purposefully make the second exposure out of focus, although I’m not sure that it matters much if you do. You can control the strength of the blue tone by how bright the second exposure is. The darker the exposure, the less blue there will be and the less faded the picture will appear. The brighter the exposure, the more blue there will be and the more faded the picture will appear. It’s fun to experiment with this, because you can vary the look significantly by how you expose the second image. If you want the highlights to be warmer, simply increase the tone of the first exposure to be more warm, or even use the Sepia film simulation instead of Acros. You could use a different color paper, or even use a cool tone instead of warm on the first exposure, if you wanted. You could really play around with this and come up with all sots of different looks.
Exposure 1
Acros
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +4
Shadow: +4
Tone: +6 (warm)
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Sharpening: +1
Noise Reduction: -4
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Exposure 2
Velvia
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +4
Shadow: +4
Color: +2
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Weak
Sharpening: +1
Noise Reduction: -4
White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1 to -3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Split-Toned B&W film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:
Open Blinds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Ocean – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
White Faux Blooms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Monochrome Floral Arrangement – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Lily Bloom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Throw Pillows – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Dirt Play – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Girl In The Sunlight – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
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Instamatic Morning – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 “Bleach Bypass”
The upcoming Fujifilm X-T4 will have a new film simulation: Bleach Bypass. This new film simulation might eventually come to other X-Trans IV cameras, such as the X-T30, X-T3, X-Pro3 and X100V, but it might not, as Fujifilm has yet to add Classic Negative to the X-T3 and X-T30. It would certainly be nice if Fujifilm gave those of us with “older” X-Trans IV cameras the new film simulations. Even if they never do, you are in luck, as I have created a film simulation recipe to mimic the look of bleach bypass!
Bleach bypass is a darkroom technique where you skip or limit the bleach during development of color film, which causes it to retain the silver. Results will vary greatly depending on the film used and exactly how you develop it, but generally speaking what you get with bleach bypass is a high-contrast, low-saturation, grainy picture that appears as if a black-and-white and color picture were combined together. This technique is more common for motion picture film than still photography, but some people do bleach bypass with C-41 film.
I experimented with the techniques that I used for this film simulation back in June of last year. Much came out of those experiments, including both the Faded Color and Faded Monochrome film simulation recipes, as well as in-camera texturing. I created something similar to this recipe, but gave up on it before completing it. Last week Fuji X Weekly reader James Clinich reached out to me to share some experiments he had been doing, which turned out to be very similar to what I had done back in June. This rekindled my interest, and with inspiration drawn from James, I made this “Bleach Bypass” film simulation recipe.
This film simulation recipe requires the use of the double exposure feature of your camera. You will need a tripod, and there can’t be any movement in the scene. You have to make two identical exposures, one in color and one in black-and-white. After the first exposure is made, you must change the film simulation before making the second exposure. You can have both sets of settings programmed into the custom menu as separate presets, and toggle between them, or just change the film simulation, making sure that the tone is set correctly when making the Acros exposure. It’s a bit tricky and limited, but the results are nice. If you don’t want to do double exposures, but want something that will produce similar results to this recipe, try my Dramatic Classic Chrome recipe except set color to -4. That’s about as close as you can get. Otherwise, if you want to create a bleach bypass look in-camera, this recipe is your best option.
Exposure 1
Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +3
Shadow: +4
Color: +2
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Strong
Sharpening: +1
Noise Reduction: -4
White Balance: Auto, -1 Red & +3 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Exposure 2
Acros
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +3
Shadow: +4
Tone: +2 (warm)
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Grain: Strong
Sharpening: +1
Noise Reduction: -4
White Balance: Auto, -1 Red & +3 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Bleach Bypass” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:
Pillows – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Window Robot – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Illuminated Faux Flowers – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Pronto! – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Touch of Green – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Rooftops & Mountaintops – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tracks Under The Bridge – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Do Not Cross Tracks – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
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All Aboard Boy – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Faded Monochrome”
I love the results of my Faded Color recipe, so creating a Faded Monochrome recipe was a natural next step. This film simulation recipe requires the use of the double-exposure feature of the camera. The first exposure is a normal photo, and the second exposure is of something plain white. I’ve tried different things, but for me a 4″ x 6″ plain white index card works well. No need for the second exposure to be in focus. It’s a simple idea that I wish I had thought of earlier. I think I’ve just scratched the surface of what can be created using this technique.
In film photography, you could achieve a similar look by printing with a low-contrast filter. You could also develop the film for low contrast by adjusting any number of things in the lab. You might also get this look by accident if you reused the fixer one too many times. Sometimes underexposed pushed-processed film has a very similar aesthetic. It’s possible for negatives to fade over time, especially if not stored correctly, and that, too, might create a similar look. While “faded” is in the title of this recipe, the look isn’t so much faded as it is low-contrast with “milky” blacks. It works especially well for high-contrast scenes.
Morning Coffee – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Faded Monochrome”
To use this recipe, you will create two exposures using the double-exposure feature of your camera. The first exposure is the main image, and the second exposure is of something plain white, such as a 4″ x 6″ plain white index card. There is no need for the second exposure to be in focus. The exposure compensation for the second exposure can vary greatly depending on how bright the white is and how you want the picture to look. You will have to play around with it to figure out what works for you. The good news is that your camera will give you a preview of the finished image and will allow do-overs.
Acros (Acros+Y, Acros+R, Acros+G) Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: +4 Shadow: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: +2 Grain Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect: Strong Toning: 0 (Neutral)
ISO: Auto up to ISO 12800
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (main exposure), 0 to -2 (second exposure)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using my Faded Monochrome recipe on a Fujifilm X-T30:
Grey Rose – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Grey Lake – East Canyon SP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Lake Boat – Willard Bay SP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Tree Limbs – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Well – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Don’t Give – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Urban Escape – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Big Brick Buildings – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Center Reflection – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Urbanscape Monochrome – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Less Is More – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Urban Leaves – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Small Flower In The Big City – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Park Bench – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Joshua Monochrome – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Happy Girl – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Children On A Park Slide – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Instax Photographer – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Joy In The City – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Bank Time – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Water On The Glass – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Club – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Stepping By – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Vibes – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Quiet – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Urban Cloud – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Angles & Lines – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Utah Artist – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Treading Lightly – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Marlboro Man – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Come Inside – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Mono Chrome – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Stop In Ogden – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
UTA Station – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Train Ride Abstract – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Empty Train Seats – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Train Passenger – Roy, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Passenger Window – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Train 19 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
UTA 19 – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Train Host – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Hungry Traveler – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Caboose Steps Monochrome – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Caboose Display – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Industrial Sunlight – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Ladder Climb – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
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This film simulation recipe was a mistake. I discovered it when I accidentally chose ISO 51200 instead of Auto-3 ISO. In my hurry, I scrolled down one too far, which took me from the bottom to the top, and I didn’t notice that I had inadvertently selected the highest possible ISO. I wouldn’t normally, or really ever, use ISO 51200. Even on most full-frame cameras, that high of an ISO is pushing the capabilities of the camera. It’s beyond what most would ever think of using on an APS-C camera. I’ve often wondered why Fujifilm even made it an option. Yet on Memorial Day I made a few exposures with it, not even realizing it.
Memorials – South Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – ISO 51200
Little Flags – South Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – ISO 51200
When I reviewed the images that I had captured, I was reminded of some photographs I made four years ago when I pushed a roll of Ilford HP5 Plus 400 film by one stop. Push-processing is a technique where you underexpose film and increase the development time to make up for it. You are essentially increasing the exposure in the lab using chemicals. The result is a higher-contrast image with more pronounced grain. Sometimes you would do this because the ISO of the film wasn’t high enough to make a good exposure, and sometimes you’d do this just for the aesthetics of it. Different films respond differently to push-processing, and different films have different tolerances to how much they can be pushed. While HP5 Plus is a good film, it’s not typically considered one of the best for push-processing, but the results can still be good, especially if you don’t push it too much.
Here are some push-processed Ilford HP5 Plus 400 pictures that I captured several years back:
Grand View – Las Vegas, NV – FED 5c – Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Pushed 1 Stop
I-15 Travelers – Las Vegas, NV – Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Pushed 1 Stop
After seeing the ISO 51200 results from my Fujifilm X-T30, I decided to make some more ultra-high ISO black-and-white pictures. What I discovered is that for contrasty and grainy B&W pictures, ISO 51200 on the X-T30 is not only usable, but it can produce film-like results that are similar to push-processed Ilford HP5 Plus 400 film. A negative aspect of ISO 51200 is that it can sometimes produce “smudgy” results, especially in grass. It doesn’t always do that, but it sometimes does, so I would say that this maximum ISO should be used with care. Taking the ISO down one stop to 25600 seems to remedy this, and delivers similar results to the higher ISO images. ISO 12800 is almost not grainy or contrasty enough, but it’s very close and is also usable for this recipe should you need to drop the ISO.
You might notice that this recipe is quite similar to my Tri-X Push Process recipe, mostly just a higher ISO and added grain. I like that recipe a lot and I think it also delivers analog-like results. Even though it’s based on the same film, there are several differences between this recipe and my original Ilford HP5 Plus recipe. This one is much less “clean” and is fun to pair with vintage lenses. Also, this recipe can be used on X-Trans III cameras, except (obviously) you ignore Color Chrome Effect. I tried it on an X-T20 and it looked good, even at ISO 51200 (see the very top picture in this article).
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