Coastal Blooms – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Pacific Blues”
Sometimes—like “Arizona Analog“—Film Simulation Recipes come together quickly, and sometimes—like this recipe—they don’t. This particular recipe has been in the works for over a year! I’ve made several attempts, and I finally feel satisfied that it is right—or at least as “right” as I’m going to get it. But what is it?
I’ve had a few requests to mimic the aesthetic of Lucy Laucht‘s Spirit of Summer series, particularly the Positano Bluesphotographs. Lucy is most known for shooting with Leica cameras—both film and digital—but she also uses others, and I wasn’t sure what she employed for this project. Recently I discovered that Positano Blues was shot on film, but (as far as I’ve found) she doesn’t discuss which film. I did find a reference (not related to this specific project) that mentioned she has used Kodak Gold and Kodak Portra, and that she digitally edits the film scans to some degree. She mentions using VSCO with her digital images, and I wonder if she also utilizes it with her film, too. When I first saw the pictures in this series, I thought it had a Classic Negative vibe—a film simulation that emulates Fujicolor Superia film. Lucy’s pictures are warmer than Superia typically is, but so much depends on how a film is shot, developed, scanned, etc., on how exactly it looks, and she certainly could have used warming filter. No matter the film and process used by Lucy, there’s a certain “look” to the Positano Blues photographs that is recognizable and beautiful—no wonder why people want to emulate it!
Coast Blue – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Pacific Blues”
While Lucy Laucht’s pictures have a recognizable aesthetic, there are subtle differences between the images. Once you study them closely, you realize that some are warmer and some are cooler. Colors are rendered slightly different in some pictures. In past attempts, I felt like I’d get it “right” for one picture but “wrong” for others; however, with this final attempt, I feel like it’s possible to get close to the “look” of most of the Positano Blues photos. I’m very satisfied with how this one turned out, and I know that many of you will appreciate it, too. Obviously it is intended for a summer day at the beach, but it will do well in many different daylight situations. This “Pacific Blues” Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. I assume that it will also work on the X-H2s and newer GFX cameras, but I haven’t tried it to know for sure.
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: +3 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong White Balance: 5800K, +1 Red & -3 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Pacific Blues” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
Pier Feet – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Water Taxi – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Harford Pier – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Bird & Boats – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Bird ‘Bout To Get Wet – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Ocean Post – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Pacific Plants – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Rocks in the Water – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Central California Coast – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Grass in the Sand – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Beach Frisbee – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Sax at the Beach – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
Building Storm Over Desert Ridge – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Arizona Analog”
Inspiration can come suddenly and unexpectedly, and it’s important to be open to it when it comes.
I was at the grocery store the other day, waiting in line to checkout, standing right next to the magazine stand. My wife points out the latest issue of Arizona Highways, which I previously subscribed to, but (with my move from Utah) I let the renewal lapse. She says, “Wanna get it?” I shake my head no, then begin to load the groceries onto the belt. I didn’t want to get it because the subscription price for a year is the same price as four issues at the stand, and because I’m pretty busy right now (still unpacking boxes and such) and I might not read it anyway.
“Do you mind getting me an iced coffee?” My wife asked a moment later. Then, pointing at the stuff on the belt, she stated, “I’ve got this.” There’s a Starbucks in the grocery store, and I was happy to jump out of the line and get a couple of coffees. A few minutes later, just as the barista was done with our order, my wife walks up with the basket of bagged groceries. Sitting right on top was the Arizona Highways magazine.
Old Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Arizona Analog”
When we got home, after unloading the car and putting everything away, I thumbed through the August issue. On page 10 was a photograph by Scott Baxter of a rancher wrangling cattle, which was in a small article called Sierra Bonita Ranch (the picture can be seen if you click the link—click on the picture to see the whole thing—I find it interesting how different it appears on my screen vs in the magazine). I grabbed my Fujifilm X-E4 and threw in some settings that I thought might be close.
I snapped a few photos in the yard, then showed my wife. “Those look good,” she said. “This is where I got the inspiration,” I stated as I showed her Scott’s picture in the magazine. She viewed the picture, then gave me a puzzled look. “We’ve only been home 10 minutes. You made this recipe from that picture?”
“Yes!” I replied with a smile. “Wow,” she said, “that’s really amazing!”
Suburban Americana – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Arizona Analog”
This recipe isn’t a 100% accurate match to Scott’s picture—it’s pretty close, but not perfect. Not surprising, it’s closer to the printed aesthetic than the digital look, as I hadn’t yet seen it online when I created the recipe. I considered attempting to more closely replicate the aesthetic of the picture, but I really like the look of this recipe—accurate or not—so I decided not to change it. I have no idea what Scott used to capture his picture… apparently he shoots a mix of film and digital.
Thanks to Scott Baxter, Arizona Highways, and my wife’s thoughtful gesture, the inspiration for this recipe came quickly. It was one of the fastest recipes that I’ve ever created. Certainly it’s not for every person or every situation, but I’m sure for some of you in the right situations, you’ll appreciate the aesthetic that this “Arizona Analog” Film Simulation Recipe delivers. It’s compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras—I assume the new X-H2s, too, but I haven’t yet tested it on X-Trans V.
Eterna Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +3 Color: -2 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: Daylight, +6 Red & -3 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Arizona Analog” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
Pavillion – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
The New West – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Curved Trellis – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Evening Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Flower Garden Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Real Bloom over Artificial Turf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Trunk & Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Wall Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Fishhook Barrel Cactus Blossom – Mesa, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
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Bougainvillea Color – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – “Faux Classic Chrome”
A little over two years ago I figured out how to replicate default Classic Chrome using the PRO Neg. Std film simulation. I published my findings in a blog post, to hopefully be helpful to those with cameras which don’t have the Classic Chrome film simulations, such as the X-Pro1, X-E1, X100, and X100S. I didn’t make this an official Film Simulation Recipe because it was just emulating Classic Chrome without adjustments (other than Noise Reduction), which I didn’t think was especially exciting; however, I recently found out that this recipe is being used and there’s a desire for it to be included in the Fuji X Weekly App. I’m simply turning those two-year-old settings into an official Fuji X Weekly Film Simulation Recipe.
If you want a recipe that resembles Classic Chrome with DR100, Highlight 0, Shadow 0, Color 0, Sharpness 0, and AWB (without a shift), this recipe is a good facsimile of that. It’s not possible to 100% faithfully mimic Classic Chrome without Classic Chrome, but these settings are pretty close, and as close as you’re likely going to get.
Laughing at a Joke – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – “Faux Classic Chrome”
I created these settings on an X-Trans II camera, but all of these images were captured on my Fujifilm X-Pro1. If you have an X-Trans I or X-Trans II sensor that doesn’t have Classic Chrome but does have PRO Neg. Std, you can use this recipe to approximate default Classic Chrome. The results are pretty decent; it’s a solid all-around recipe that’s good for a variety of subjects and situations.
PRO Neg. Std Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +1 (Medium-Hard) Shadow: +1 (Medium-Hard) Color: +1 (Medium-High) Sharpness: 0 (Standard) Noise Reduction: -2 (Low) White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & -1 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 3200 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Faux Classic Chrome” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-Pro1:
Midday Palm – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Building, Clouds – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Mostly Sunny Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Garden Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Reaching Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Pergola Roof Design – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Pop of Pink – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Hiding Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Scraggly Bloom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Josh Looking at Something – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
I wanted to make another recipe that uses the Fluorescent 2 (or “warm white fluorescent”) white balance. Why? Because this is a very underutilized and under appreciated option. I have only four other recipes that use it—Provia 400, Fujicolor Super HG, Super HG Astia, and Fujichrome Sensia 100—and those are all very good recipes. I didn’t have any specific film in mind when I made this, I was simply attempting something that looked good.
After shooting with it awhile, and looking at the pictures, the results looked familiar, but I couldn’t put a finger on it. I started digging through my old pictures, and wasn’t finding anything. Then I stumbled on a few Kodak Ektachrome E100GX frames, and the results were similar.
Ektachrome E100GX was a color transparency film made by Kodak from 2001-2009, and is what replaced E100SW. It was known for vibrant saturation, a warm color cast, and fine grain. It wasn’t quite as warm, vibrant, or sharp as E100SW, but overall very similar, yet with finer grain. Some people thought it was better than E100SW, some people thought it was worse. I liked E100SW a bit better, but E100GX was still a good film, particularly if you wanted something warm, colorful, and contrasty, but not overly so.
Intelligent Children – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – “Ektachrome E100GX”
This recipe is compatible with Fujifilm X-Trans III, X-T3 and X-T30 cameras. For those with newer X-Trans IV cameras, to use this recipe simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and Grain size to Small.
Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -2 Shadow: +2 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Grain Effect: Weak Color Chrome Effect: Off/NA White Balance: Fluorescent 2, -1 Red & -6 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Ektachrome E100GX” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30 & Fujifilm X-H1 cameras:
Yellow Glow of Iowa – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Sunlight Reflected on Window – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Dark Red Tree & Partly Cloudy Sky – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Dead Leaves in a Dry Drinking Fountain – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Small Waterfall – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Forest Graffiti – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Growing Out of the Side – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Two Boys Going Down a Trail – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Reflection in the River – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Left – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-T30
Warm Pink Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Bougainvillea Pink – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Little Orange Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 200 more on the Fuji X Weekly App!
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Thomas told me that this “Pure Negative” recipe is basically a modification of his X-Trans I Kodachrome II recipe for use on X-Trans IV cameras. Because X-Trans I doesn’t have Classic Chrome, Thomas used the PRO Neg. Std film simulation to emulate a Kodachrome aesthetic as best as possible, and his recipe does a good job of that for the X-Pro1 and X-E1 cameras. There are already several excellent Kodachrome options for X-Trans IV; this recipe isn’t intended to replicate Kodachrome, but instead produce good natural-looking results—perhaps there is a little unintentional Kodachrome 25 resemblance, too. Thank you, Thomas, for creating this recipe and allowing me to share it on Fuji X Weekly!
This Film Simulation Recipe is a great general-purpose option. It’s very versatile, delivering excellent results in a variety of situations. The only modification that I made to Thomas’ recipe is Dynamic Range: he prefers DR-Auto, but I set it to DR200. That’s not a big change, as DR-Auto chooses DR200 whenever there is bright highlights in the frame. Select whichever you prefer—either DR-Auto or DR200 is fine. For the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30 cameras, ignore Grain size and use a 5% CineBloom in lieu of Clarity (or just ignore Clarity)—the results will be similar. For X-Trans III, you’ll additionally have to ignore Color Chrome Effect, since your camera doesn’t have it. This recipe should be fully compatible with the new X-H2s, although I have not tested it to know for certain.
PRO Neg. Std Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +2 Color: -4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: +1 Clarity: -2 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -2 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Pure Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
Bougainvillea Branch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
One Blossom Remains – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Prickly Pear – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Arching Palms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Veiled Wasatch – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Pismo – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Brad’s – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Turbulent Waters – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Wave Rider – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Surfer – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Standing on Water – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Golden Ocean – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
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One of my favorite X-Trans I Film Simulation Recipes is Color Negative Film, which has a white balance shift inspired by my Fujicolor 100 Industrial recipe. This recipe, which was a Patron Early-Access Recipe on the Fuji X Weekly App but is now available to everyone, is an adaptation of the X-Trans I recipe for X-Trans II. It doesn’t mimic any specific film, but just has a more generic film aesthetic. It’s not an exact match to the X-Trans I recipe, but it’s pretty close.
This “Color Negative Film” recipe is a great allrounder for daylight situations. My Fujifilm X-T1 was boxed away for over two months as I moved, and when I unboxed it last week this recipe is the one that I programmed and used first. It’s a recipe that I know many of you will love, too. If you have an X-Trans II camera, give this one a try!
No Swimming – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T1 – “Color Negative Film”
Provia Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +2 (Hard) Shadow: +2 (Hard) Color: -2 (Low) Sharpness: -1 (Medium-Soft) Noise Reduction: -2 (Low) White Balance: 3200K, +8 Red & -8 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 3200 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Color Negative Film” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T1:
Sunlit Leaves – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Green Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1 – Photo by Jon Roesch
Early Autumn – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Forest Trail – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
One Dead Leaf – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Backlit Autumn Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Autumn Flare – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Changing Leaves in the Woods – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Yellow Shrub – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Trail to the Trees – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Water Logged – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1 – Photo by Jon Roesch
Little Purple Blooms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Reeds of Summer – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-T1
Magenta Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T1
Trumpet Flower – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T1
Pride of Barbados – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T1
Jon by a Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T1
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 200 more on the Fuji X Weekly App!
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On the day when the Nikon Zfc was announced, I placed my preorder for it. I’m a sucker for retro-styled cameras, and I used to shoot with Nikon DSLRs many years ago, so I was very curious about the Zfc. When it arrived I eagerly removed the packaging, and was very soon disappointed. The camera looked beautiful, but was bigger, heavier, and cheaper (as in quality, not price) than I had anticipated, and with questionable design decisions (such as PASM). Still, I put it through its paces, and published an article comparing the Nikon Zfc to Fujifilm cameras, which was more-or-less my review of it. Then I put the Zfc back in the box, which is where it remains today. I might dust it off and give it another chance, or maybe I’ll just sell it—I haven’t yet decided. For certain, I was unimpressed by Nikon’s efforts, and my advice to them would be to try again, but this time don’t be afraid to take the extra steps to give their customers a unique experience. I feel like they had the right idea, but didn’t have the guts to really see it through, and instead produced a mediocre camera dressed in lovely styling—kind of the lipstick-on-a-pig thing, but that’s a little harsher than I mean.
There was one bright spot with the Nikon camera: Picture Control (and the Creative Picture Control subset). While Fujifilm’s Film Simulations are inspired by film, Nikon’s Picture Controls are inspired by feelings and mood. It’s a much different take, and not necessarily better or worse—simply a divergent approach that’s worth noting. Fujifilm infuses an analog soul into their digital images, while Nikon infuses emotions that may or may not be analog-esque into their images. I found this to be intriguing, and I excitedly created some Film Simulation Recipes, which are JPEG camera settings, for it (like I do for Fujifilm cameras)—I crafted 11 Film Simulation Recipes for the Zfc before I boxed it back up.
I never did anything with those recipes, other than store them on my computer. Nobody knew that I had even made them, yet, because of my Zfc article, a number of people have requested that I publish Nikon Z Film Simulation Recipes. I briefly considered making a website and app, like I did for Fujifilm and Ricoh, but decided that I really don’t have the time, energy, or desire to do that, at least for now. Instead, I decided to simply publish those 11 Film Simulation Recipes for Nikon Z in this article—you’ll find them below! These recipes are fully compatible with the Nikon Zfc, Z50, and Z30 (the APS-C models). They are likely also compatible with the full-frame Z cameras—Z5, Z6, Z6 II, Z7, Z7 II, and Z9—but I’m really not 100% sure, and most likely they’ll render just a little differently—if you have one of those cameras, give it a try and see what happens.
For those who don’t own a Nikon Z camera, you might find the similarities and differences between these and Fujifilm recipes to be fascinating. I hope that those who come to this website for Fujifilm-related articles aren’t too disappointed by this post, but instead find something about it worthwhile. Likely a few of you have both a Fujifilm and Nikon Z camera, so this article should be beneficial to at least a handful of people. If it is, let me know in the comments! Also, if there’s a certain recipe in this list that you are drawn to, let me know!
Nostalgic Print
Nikon Zfc – “Nostalgic Print”
Resembles the aesthetic of classic Kodak prints that have been stored in a box for many years.
Picture Control: Dream Effect Level: 90 Quick Sharp: 0.00 Sharpening: -0.50 Mid-Range Sharpening: -2.00 Clarity: -4.00 Contrast: +3.00 Saturation: -2.00 Active D-Lighting: Normal High ISO NR: Low White Balance: Natural Light Auto WB Adjust: B2.0 G0.5 ISO: up to 3200
Nikon Zfc – “Nostalgic Print”
Nikon Zfc – “Nostalgic Print”
Nikon Zfc – “Nostalgic Print”
Nikon Zfc – “Nostalgic Print”
Silver Slide
Nikon Zfc – “Silver Slide”
Some similarities to color transparency film with the bleach step reduced (but not skipped).
Picture Control: Dramatic Effect Level: 70 Quick Sharp: 0.00 Sharpening: +2.00 Mid-Range Sharpening: +1.00 Clarity: +1.00 Contrast: -1.00 Saturation: +3.00 Active D-Lighting: High High ISO NR: Low White Balance: Direct Sunlight WB Adjust: A3.0 M1.0 ISO: up to 3200
Nikon Zfc – “Silver Slide”
Nikon Zfc – “Silver Slide”
Nikon Zfc – “Silver Slide”
Nikon Zfc – “Silver Slide”
Weekend Negative
Nikon Zfc – “Weekend Negative”
Inspired by inexpensive consumer-grade color negative film, printed at the one-hour lab.
Picture Control: Sunday Effect Level: 60 Quick Sharp: 0.00 Sharpening: -2.00 Mid-Range Sharpening: 0.00 Clarity: +3.00 Contrast: +1.00 Saturation: -3.00 Active D-Lighting: Normal High ISO NR: Low White Balance: 6500K WB Adjust: A/B0.0 G2.0 ISO: up to 3200
Nikon Zfc – “Weekend Negative”
Nikon Zfc – “Weekend Negative”
Nikon Zfc – “Weekend Negative”
Nikon Zfc – “Weekend Negative”
Tungsten Dawn
Nikon Zfc – “Tungsten Dawn”
Great for mixed light situations, with some similarities to Tungsten film—also, great for toning down the intensity of warm “golden hour” light.
Picture Control: Morning Effect Level: 70 Quick Sharp: 0.00 Sharpening: -2.00 Mid-Range Sharpening: +2.00 Clarity: -2.00 Contrast: +1.00 Saturation: +2.00 Active D-Lighting: High High ISO NR: Low White Balance: Day White Fluorescent WB Adjust: A2.0 M1.0 ISO: up to 3200
Nikon Zfc – “Tungsten Dawn”
Nikon Zfc – “Tungsten Dawn”
Nikon Zfc – “Tungsten Dawn”
Nikon Zfc – “Tungsten Dawn”
Fujichrome
Nikon Zfc – “Fujichrome”
Color palette reminiscent of Fujichrome Astia but with vibrancy more similar to Fujichrome Provia.
Picture Control: Somber Effect Level: 90 Quick Sharp: -2.00 Sharpening: 0.00 Mid-Range Sharpening: 0.00 Clarity: -3.00 Contrast: -3.00 Saturation: +1.00 Active D-Lighting: Extra High High ISO NR: Low White Balance: Direct Sunlight WB Adjust: A2.0 M1.25 ISO: up to 3200
Nikon Zfc – “Fujichrome”
Nikon Zfc – “Fujichrome”
Nikon Zfc – “Fujichrome”
Nikon Zfc – “Fujichrome”
Classic Slide
Nikon Zfc – “Classic Slide”
Some similarities to Kodak Elite Chrome emulsions.
Picture Control: Pop Effect Level: 30 Quick Sharp: 0.00 Sharpening: 0.00 Mid-Range Sharpening: +1.00 Clarity: +2.00 Contrast: +1.00 Saturation: -2.00 Active D-Lighting: Normal High ISO NR: Low White Balance: 5200K WB Adjust: A/B0.0 M0.75 ISO: up to 3200
Nikon Zfc – “Classic Slide”
Nikon Zfc – “Classic Slide”
Nikon Zfc – “Classic Slide”
Nikon Zfc – “Classic Slide”
CineFilm
Nikon Zfc – “CineFilm”
Resembles the aesthetic of low-saturation cinema film.
Picture Control: Silence Effect Level: 70 Quick Sharp: 0.00 Sharpening: +1.00 Mid-Range Sharpening: +2.00 Clarity: -2.00 Contrast: +1.00 Saturation: +3.00 Active D-Lighting: Auto High ISO NR: Low White Balance: Auto (0) Keep White WB Adjust: A5.0 M0.50 ISO: up to 3200
Nikon Zfc – “CineFilm”
Nikon Zfc – “CineFilm”
Nikon Zfc – “CineFilm”
Nikon Zfc – “CineFilm”
Cinema Color
Nikon Zfc – “Cinema Color”
Produces a cinematic filmic look.
Picture Control: Bleached Effect Level: 60 Quick Sharp: 0.00 Sharpening: +2.00 Mid-Range Sharpening: +1.00 Clarity: -3.00 Contrast: -1.00 Saturation: +3.00 Active D-Lighting: High High ISO NR: Low White Balance: Direct Sunlight WB Adjust: A5.0 M1.00 ISO: up to 3200
Nikon Zfc – “Cinema Color”
Nikon Zfc – “Cinema Color”
Nikon Zfc – “Cinema Color”
Nikon Zfc – “Cinema Color”
Vintage Color
Nikon Zfc – “Vintage Color”
Reminiscent of color pictures from the 1970’s and 1980’s.
Picture Control: Melancholic Effect Level: 90 Quick Sharp: -1.00 Sharpening: +1.00 Mid-Range Sharpening: 0.00 Clarity: -2.00 Contrast: +1.00 Saturation: -1.00 Active D-Lighting: Normal High ISO NR: Low White Balance: Daylight Fluorescent WB Adjust: A3.0 G2.25 ISO: up to 3200
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VW Bus – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – “SantaColor”
There’s a brand-new color negative film stock called SantaColor 100, which is actually repurposed Kodak AeroColor 125, an emulsion intended for areal photography. I don’t believe that AeroColor is still produced (although it can still be found if you look hard enough); SantaColor 100 could be an old batch that’s been stored for awhile and is now surplus. This film has a reddish-orange color cast, which (depending on how it was shot, developed, and scanned) can be somewhat subtle or quite pronounced. This Film Simulation Recipe is an attempt to mimic that film; however, I’m not 100% satisfied with how closely it does (or doesn’t) replicate it—I think it can be really close sometimes, and other times not so much. Still, I like how this recipe looks, so I thought I’d share it with you in case some of you like it, too.
Why are special films used for aerial mapping? I tried to find an answer to this, but couldn’t. My suspicion is that atmosphere/haze can obscure “regular” film, and aerial films are made to be less susceptible to that. Another thought is that the temperature at high altitude is cold, so maybe the film has to work well in cold temperatures. Still, another idea is that the angle of the sun is different, so the film needs to be adjusted for that. It could be one, all, or none of those things—if you know the answer, please enlighten me by commenting below!
Sport Fishing – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – “SantaColor”
This “SantaColor” Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. For those with an X-T3 and X-T30, you will need to ignore Grain size (since your camera doesn’t have that), and use a diffusion filter (such as 10% CineBloom) in lieu of Clarity. For those with an X-H1, you will need to additionally ignore Color Chrome Effect (the results will be just a little different).
Eterna Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -2 Shadow: +4 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: 5100K, +5 Red & -3 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “SantaColor” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
Last Limelight – Redlands, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
We Hot – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Fish out of Water – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Agave Garden – Pasadena, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Plymouth – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Palm & Rooftop – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Rooftop Stairs – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Houses on the Hillside – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Irregular – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Life Ring – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Wishing Posts – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Ball & Blue Boat – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Red Rowboats – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Beach-Walking Seagull – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Grassy Sand Dune – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
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My wife, Amanda, visited her mom, and when she returned home she had a 4″ x 6″ print. “I thought you’d find this interesting,” she said as she handed it to me. I looked at it carefully—front and back—then set out to recreate the look on my Fujifilm X-E4. I have no idea what film was used to capture the picture (other than it was a color negative film), but it was about 20-years-old (based on the subject), definitely from a cheap point-and-shoot of some sort (possibly a disposable camera), it was printed on Fujicolor paper at a one-hour lab, and was likely faded from improper storage. I only had one picture to go off of, but I feel I nailed the aesthetic of it pretty darn closely.
Perhaps more importantly, I really like the look of this recipe. It is the most nostalgic-analog-like results that I’ve ever achieved from the PRO Neg. Std film simulation. It reminds me a little of the Kodak High Definition Plus 200 recipe, but with less contrast and less saturation. I’ve enjoyed shooting with this one—it’s definitely not for everyone or every situation; however, some of you will really appreciate it in the “right” situations.
This “Nostalgic Print” Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too. For those with the X-T3 and X-T30 (or older GFX cameras), if you ignore Color Chrome FX Blue and Grain size (since your camera doesn’t have those), and replace Clarity with a diffusion filter (such as a 10% CineBloom), you can get pretty close to this look; for X-Trans III, you’ll have to additionally ignore Color Chrome Effect (since you don’t have it)—the results will be slightly more different, but still pretty similar overall.
PRO Neg. Std Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: 0 Color: -4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: 4700K, -3 Red & -4 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Nostalgic Print” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
Red Train – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Five Palms – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Eagle 5 – Ehrenberg, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Morning Mountain Palms – Riverside, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
76 Pretzel – Ehrenberg, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Palm Leaves – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Tropical Plant – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Ice Bloom – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Sam’s Market – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Green House – Redlands, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Cupboard & Curtain – Redlands, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
A Sub Above the Dumpster – Pasadena, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Three Bikes & Pedestrian – Pasadena, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
Fujifilm cameras have a feature in Advanced Filter Settings called “Low Key” that I recently discovered is based on the Provia film simulation, and can be mimicked. While this “Low Key” setting can produce nice-looking images, I felt that it could be better, so I set out to create a Film Simulation Recipe to serve as an alternative to it, with an aesthetic that I appreciate a little more. Specifically, I wanted a recipe based on the Classic Negative film simulation instead of Provia because I like Classic Negative better. My “Bright Kodak” recipe is an alternative to the “High Key” feature found in the Advanced Filter Settings.
Low Key photography is purposefully underexposing for a darker image. It works well when the subject is brightly lit, and the rest of the frame isn’t, so the image is predominately dark, and the brightly lit subject stands out in the otherwise dim frame. I hope this explanation makes sense. This “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe and the Low Key feature in the Advanced Filter Settings work similarly, and produce nice results when used in the correct situations. While not for everyday use, some of you will certainly appreciate this recipe for when the light is right. I did not model this recipe after any specific emulsion.
This “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with newer X-Trans IV cameras: Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, & X-T30 II. Because it uses Classic Negative, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity, it is not compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30. Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too, although results will be slightly different.
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +2 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -1 Clarity: -2 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: Daylight, -2 Red & -4 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to -1 1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Low Key” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Cactus & Palm Shadow – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Very Tiny Flowers – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Green Cactus Pads – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Spiky – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Blue Sky Cacti – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
BougainvilleaSky – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Light Bulb Evening – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Lit Leaves – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Cinderblock Wall Girl – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
oyride – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
The Queen’s – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Low Key Film Simulation Recipe vs. Low Key Advanced Filter Setting
Low Key Film Simulation Recipe
Low Key Advanced Filter Setting
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
City Roses – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Pushed CineStill 800T”
This “Pushed CineStill 800T” Film Simulation Recipe came about after I stumbled across an amazing picture that was captured on CineStill 800T film during daytime with an overcast sky. It turned out that the film was push-processed, but I never learned by how many stops (I’m guessing one-stop). After some extensive Googling, I was able to find several more examples of push-processed CineStill 800T film shot in overcast daytime light. I then set out to mimic that aesthetic on my Fujifilm camera, and I figured it out; however, my first recipe was only compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras, so I made this alternative version that works on the X-Pro3 and X100V (you can use it on those “newer” cameras, too, if you’d like).
Interestingly enough, even though this recipe is intended for daytime photography, it does quite well at night, too; however, I do believe it more faithfully mimics the film in cloudy daytime conditions. It does produce nice results in daylight or night, so feel free to use it anytime. Film can look different depending on how it is shot, developed, or scanned (among many other things). This recipe doesn’t replicate pushed CineStill 800T film under all circumstances, but in certain conditions it’s a good facsimile. I really like how this one looks, and I think some of you will really appreciate it, too!
This was a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe, so App Patrons have had access to it since October, but now it’s available to everyone! A new Early-Access Recipe replaced it—find it in the Fuji X Weekly App!
Eterna Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +3 Shadow: +1 Color: -2 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong White Balance: 7700K, -9 Red & +7 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Pushed CineStill 800T” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V & Fujifilm X-E4:
Gas Pumps at Night – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Nighttime Neighborhood – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Night Walkway – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Nighttime Flowerpot – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
Reggie Ballesteros (website, YouTube, Instagram, Instagram), also known as Reggie B Photo, is an official Fujifilm X-Photographer based in San Fransisco, California. He shoots both film and digital, and on his Fujifilm cameras he likes to use both RAW and JPEG. For his JPEGs, Reggie developed a Film Simulation Recipe that’s a close match to the Kodak Portra 400 film that he shoots and has developed and scanned (on a Noritsu) at Richard Photo Lab. He was very kind to allow me to share his Portra recipe with you on this website and the Fuji X Weekly App. Thanks, Reggie!
Portra 400 was introduced by Kodak in 1998. It used to come in two varieties: “NC” (Neutral Color, which had less saturation) and “VC” (Vivid Color, which had more saturation). I shot a little of both Kodak Portra 400NC and Kodak Portra 400VC back in the day, and I preferred the more colorful version. The film was redesigned in 2006 to improve grain and scanning. It was again redesigned in 2010, with the NC and VC emulsions dropped, replaced by a new mid-saturation version (simply called Portra 400), with more improvements to scanning.
I’m Your Huckleberry – Ridgedale, MO – Fujifilm X100V – “Reggie’s Portra”
As the name implies, Kodak Portra 400 is intended for portrait photography, but can be used for many other genres of photography. It’s similar to Portra 160, but with more contrast, saturation and grain. Believe it or not, ISO 400 was considered “high ISO” by many photographers back in the film days, and Portra 400 was one of the absolute best “high ISO” color films ever made. It’s still available today, and is very popular among film photographers.
When developing his Portra recipe, Reggie used the Kodak Portra 400 Film Simulation Recipe from this website as his starting point, and he tweaked it to more closely match his Portra scans and to better suit his photography. One film can have many different aesthetics, depending on how it’s shot, developed, scanned, and a whole host of other factors, so it’s great that Reggie made this alternative version, which might be closer to the exact look that you are after. Also, because this recipe uses Auto White Balance and doesn’t use Clarity, you might find that this one is more versatile than some other recipes. Oh, and take a look at the Kodak Portra 400 v2 and Kodak Portra 400 Warm recipes, which could potentially produce your desired aesthetic.
Pines – Lake Catherine SP, AR – Fujifilm X100V – “Reggie’s Portra”
One special note: Reggie has a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter attached to his lens whenever he shoots with this particular recipe. I have been using my Fujifilm X100V as a monochrome-only camera, but because I, too, have a 5% CineBloom filter attached to it, I made an exception so that I could test this recipe on that camera with the diffusion filter. For the shots captured on my X-E4, I did not use a diffusion filter; however, I do like how the 5% CineBloom subtly affects the image, and I recommend pairing it with this recipe if you can.
This Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, & X-T30 II cameras. To use it on the X-T3 and X-T30, simply ignore Grain size and Color Chrome FX Blue, since your camera doesn’t have those options—the results will be slightly different, but nearly identical. More than likely this recipe is compatible with GFX and X-Trans V, but I haven’t tested it to know for sure.
Abandoned Long John Silver’s – Elk City, OK – Fujifilm X100V – “Reggie’s Portra”
Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Highlight: -1 Shadow: -1 Color: +2 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -2 Clarity: 0 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto, +2 Red & -4 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using “Reggie’s Portra” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4 and Fujifilm X100V cameras:
Below is a video that Reggie made which illustrates his Portra recipe quite well (he notes that the Shadow setting is incorrect in the video—it should say -1, not -2). Be sure to like and subscribe and all that stuff. Enjoy!
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
Golden Palms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
I pretty much know Fujifilm cameras backwards and forwards. I’ve got to admit, though, that there are a few features that I never—or almost never—use. I recently rediscovered two of these tools that I tried once, didn’t like the results, and so I never used them again… until now. I didn’t realize that I was actually missing out on something kind of cool! I’ve had a lot of fun with these over the last few days, and I bet some of you will, too—and I also bet that you don’t use these features, and perhaps have never even tried them.
What are they? High Key and Low Key.
Note: This was a Creative Collective article, but now it’s available to everyone.
What is high key and low key? The former is purposely overexposing a frame for a bright image, and the latter is purposefully underexposing a frame for a dark image. There’s actually a High Key and Low Key mode found on your Fujifilm camera in Advanced Filters (and I believe most Fujifilm cameras have this option). I can hear you say, “But aren’t the ‘Advanced Filters’ gimmicky and there’s nothing actually ‘advanced’ about them?” Yes. This is different, though, and I’ll explain why. It’s actually interesting what the camera is doing when you use these.
First, though, let’s talk about how to find Advanced Filters. For some cameras it is found on the Drive knob on the top plate, and for other cameras it is found via the Drive button on the back of the camera. If you’re not sure where it is on your model, look for it in the user manual. It’s pretty easy to get to once you know where to look. Once you locate Advanced Filters, you’ll want to select either High Key or Low Key.
Both High Key and Low Key are JPEG options that are based on the Provia film simulation. It uses DR100 (DR-Auto is available to choose, but I could not get the camera to use DR200 even when pointed directly at the sun). Color, Highlight, Shadow, Sharpness, Noise Reduction, Clarity, etc., are all set to 0, and cannot be adjusted. Color Chrome Effect, Grain, etc., are Off and cannot be used (for those cameras with those functions). White Balance is Auto 0R & 0B and cannot be changed. On newer cameras, if you shoot RAW+JPEG, you’ll also get a RAW file, which can be reprocessed in-camera (or with X RAW Studio) if you’d like. Even though Highlight & Shadow are set to 0, you do not get the same result as setting Highlight & Shadow to 0. There’s a curve applied, but more importantly, there’s an underexposure (for Low Key) or overexposure (for High Key) automatically being applied.
So what’s going on? For Low Key, the camera is underexposing by two stops and using Highlight 0 & Shadow +1. For High Key, the camera is overexposing by two and two-thirds stops and applying -2 Highlight & -2 Shadow. You can actually replicate both of these—it took me a little bit to figure that out, but I did!
If you use Low Key, I discovered that increasing the exposure by +2/3 to +1 1/3 produces good results (because the pictures are too dark with Exposure Compensation set to 0). Low Key works well when the subject is brightly lit, especially backlit. For High Key, decreasing the exposure by -1 to -2 produces good results (because the pictures are too bright with Exposure Compensation set to 0). High Key works well in warm “golden hour” light or contrasty midday light. Both of the Low Key and High Key options are good ways to easily achieve certain aesthetics without needing to program a new Film Simulation Recipe into the C1-C7 custom presets (which is precious real estate).
If you don’t want to use the High Key and Low Key options in Advanced Filters, but want to get identical results, try this:
Low Key Provia Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: 0 Shadow: +1 Color: 0 Noise Reduction: 0 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: 0 Grain Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue ISO: Whatever you want, I did Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to -1 1/3 (typically)
High Key Provia Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: -2 Shadow: -2 Color: 0 Noise Reduction: 0 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: 0 Grain Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue ISO: Whatever you want, I did Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 2/3 (typically)
Of course, the great thing is that these can be customized (unlike High Key and Low Key in Advanced Filters, which cannot be customized). You can use DR200 or even DR400 if you want. You can select Grain or Clarity or Color Chrome Effect (for those cameras with those options). You can adjust Color, Sharpness, and Noise Reduction. You can adjust the White Balance and WB Shift. You can even change the Film Simulation if you want to. There’s a ton of potential!
Here are some sample pictures captured using High Key & Low Key on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Two Palms at Sunset – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Ducks & Boat at Sunset – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Reaching High Cacti – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Snow on the Stormy Mountain – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Pushed CineStill 800T”
This “Pushed CineStill 800T” Film Simulation Recipe came about after I stumbled across an amazing picture that was captured on CineStill 800T film during daytime with an overcast sky. It turned out that the film was push-processed, but I never learned by how many stops (I’m guessing one-stop). After some extensive Googling, I was able to find several more examples of push-processed CineStill 800T film shot in overcast daytime light. I then set out to mimic that aesthetic on my Fujifilm camera.
Interestingly enough, even though this recipe is intended for daytime photography, it does quite well at night, too; however, I do believe it more faithfully mimics the film in cloudy daytime conditions. It does produce nice results in daylight or night, so feel free to use it anytime. Film can look different depending on how it is shot, developed, or scanned (among many other things). This recipe doesn’t replicate pushed CineStill 800T film under all circumstances, but in certain conditions it’s a good facsimile. I really like how this one looks, and I think some of you will really appreciate it, too!
Book & Minolta – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Pushed CineStill 800T”
Because this “Pushed CineStill 800T” recipe uses the Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulation, it is only compatible with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. It’s possible that this recipe is also compatible with the GFX100S and GFX 50S II, but I’ve never tested it to be certain. This was a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe, so App Patrons have had access to it since October, but now it’s available to everyone! A new Early-Access Recipe replaced it find—it in the Fuji X Weekly App!
Eterna Bleach Bypass Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: -1.5 Color: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong White Balance: 7700K, -9 Red & +5 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Pushed CineStill 800T” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Happy Birthday Wish – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Ready To Go Nowhere – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Pipe Door – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Night Urban Path – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Empty Parking Garage – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Empty Harmons Fuel Stop – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Night Hydrant – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Wet White Blooms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Little Wild Berries – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Clouds Building Over Green Ridge – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Pumpkins In A Patch – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
SOOC Season 02 Episode 03 will be live this Thursday! We’ll conclude our discussion of the Kodak Vision3 250D Film Simulation Recipe and introduce the next recipe-of-the-month: Fujicolor Superia 800 (the X-Trans III version). Tune in at 10:00 AM Pacific, 1:00 PM Eastern—be sure to show up 30 minutes early for the Pre-Show!
For those who don’t know, SOOC is a monthly live video series, with each episode focused on a different Film Simulation Recipe. It is a collaboration between Tame Your Fujifilm (Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry) and Fuji X Weekly (Ritchie Roesch). SOOC is a fun and educational experience where we not only talk about Fujifilm camera settings, but also answer your questions and give tips and tricks. Basically, we’re trying to help you master your Fujifilm camera, with a focus on simplifying your photographic workflow.
If you missed the first two episodes of Season 02, you can watch them below.
Tree Blossom Sky – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Fujicolor Natura 1600”
Fujifilm produced Fujicolor Natura 1600, a high-ISO color negative film, from 2003 through 2017. It was only sold in Japan, but it became renown worldwide as word got out about this wonderful film. A lot of speculation has surrounded it. Is it simply renamed Fujicolor Superia 1600? Many people think so. Is it slightly modified Superia 1600 for Japanese skin-tones? Some people think so. Is it slightly modified Superia 1600 made specifically for the Fujifilm Natura camera? Perhaps so. I haven’t found any definitive evidence to conclude if Natura 1600 is unmodified Supera 1600 or a slightly modified variant of it—if it isn’t identical, it’s very similar.
I have a Fujicolor Superia 1600 Film Simulation Recipe already, and it’s a recipe that I personally quite like. I had no desire to remake it, but (you know) one film can have many different aesthetics, depending on a whole host of factors, including (but not limited to) how it was shot, developed, and scanned. With that in mind, I looked at Fujicolor Natura 1600 examples that I found online, and from scratch (not using the Superia 1600 recipe as a starting point) I made a whole new recipe to mimic Natura 1600—not surprisingly, the settings ended up being similar to the Superia 1600 recipe. Alternatively, this could be called Fujicolor Superia 1600 v2.
Clown Truck & Geo – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Fujicolor Natura 1600”
A fun thing that I did for some of these pictures is set the ISO to 1600—I think the results are especially good at that particular ISO; however, it’s more practical to use a larger range of ISOs. So set the ISO to 1600 if you’d like, or set it to Auto (up to ISO 6400) if you’d prefer—I tried both, and found either to be acceptable. This particular recipe is only compatible with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. If you have an X100V or X-Pro3 and want to use this recipe, I suggest setting Highlight to -1 and Shadow to +2. The results will be similar, but not identical.
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1.5 Shadow: +1.5 Color: -2 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -4 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong White Balance: 5500K, -1 Red & -2 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Fujicolor Natura 1600” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
Carpet & Curtain – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Crown Railroad Cafe – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Dinner Conversations – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Daily Specials – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Dynalift – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Ice Cream – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Concrete Blossoms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Tulips for Sale – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Hazy Blossom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Evening Sun Through Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Flower Cluster – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Easter Egg Hunt – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Pine Tree & Rocks – Bryce Canyon NP, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Two Bridges – Bryce Canyon NP, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Fujicolor Natura 1600 recipe compared to the Fujicolor Superia 1600 recipe:
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Wind from the West – Hammond, OR – Fujifilm X-E4 – “CineStill 50D”
CineStill 50D is Kodak Vision3 50D (a low-ISO daylight color negative motion picture film) with the remjet layer removed so that it can be developed via the C-41 process. I’ve been asked many times to recreate the look of this film for Fujifilm X cameras. I’ve attempted multiple times, but never succeeded—even this recipe I’m a little hesitant to share because it is “as close as I can get” but perhaps not as close as I’d like it to be. I think some of you will really appreciate it, and I hope everyone else can excuse that it isn’t perhaps the most accurate recipe I’ve ever made.
There were a few tricky parts creating this CineStill 50D recipe. First, I’ve never shot the film, and had to rely on examples from the internet. Second, there are at least three distinct aesthetics produced by this film, which I assume is from how it was shot, developed, and scanned. All films can vary in looks depending on a lengthy host of factors, and this one seems especially so. I picked one specific aesthetic that I came across as the basis of this recipe, and I think this recipe mimics that pretty well. Third, I came across an article stating that CineStill 50D scans must be treated as RAW images, as “they’re not finished straight out of the scanner.” That made me wonder how much editing had been done to the picture samples I found—how much of the look was from the film and how much was from the software. These were just some of the challenges.
Spring & Winter on Wasatch – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “CineStill 50D”
Because the film is missing the remjet layer, it is particularly prone to halation, so I used a 10% CineBloom filter for a couple of these pictures (such as the one above) to mimic that. I don’t think it helped as much as I thought it might, so I discontinued that pretty quickly, but it certainly something you can try. I think this recipe looks best in direct sunlight. Under overcast, shade, indoor, or nighttime light it can produce interesting results, but is “most accurate” to the film when photographing in blue-sky daylight. Because it uses Clarity, this recipe is not compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30; however, if you use a diffusion filter—such as 10% CineBloom or 1/4 Black Pro Mist—in lieu of Clarity, that will give you similar (but not identical) results.
Astia Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -1 Shadow: 0 Color: -4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: 0 Clarity: -4 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: 6800K, -5 Red & -3 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “CineStill 50D” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Seagulls Circling Haystack Rock – Cannon Beach, OR – Fujifilm X-E4
Small Church – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Cracker Barrel – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Bread Truck – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Red Flag Truck – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Tulip Sale – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Tree & Block Wall – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
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Diesel – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – “Ektachrome”
Ektachrome is a line of color transparency film introduced by Kodak in the 1940’s. I did some research, and counted 40 different emulsions over the years that carried the Ektachrome name! Generally speaking, Ektachrome was less warm than Kodachrome (although it depends on which Ektachrome you’re referring to), and also less archival. While Kodachrome was discontinued in 2009, Ektachrome can still be purchased today. I’m not certain which (of the 40) Ektachrome films this recipe most closely resembles. It has more of a general Ektachrome feel rather than being an exact copy of a specific emulsion.
This was a Patron Early-Access recipe, but has been replaced by another, so it is now available to everyone! If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, be sure to look for the recipe that replaced this one. This “Ektachrome” recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-E1 and X-Pro1 cameras. Unfortunately, even though the X-M1 is X-Trans I, this recipe is not compatible with that camera. I really like how this one looks, and I think some of you will really appreciate it, too!
Two Cans – Weber Canyon, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Pro Neg. Std Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 (Medium-Hard) Shadow: +2 (Hard) Color: -1 (Medium-Low) Sharpness: +2 (Hard) Noise Reduction: -2 (Low) White Balance: Daylight/Fine, -1 Red & +3 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 3200 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Ektachrome” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-Pro1:
House Flag – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Dead Wood – Farmington Bay, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Cattails – Farmington Bay, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Succulent Shelf – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1 – “Ektachrome”
Boy On Couch Watching TV – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Drinking Fountain – Weber Canyon, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Two Trees – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Berries in a Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Blackberry Bush – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
Francis Peak Summer – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro1
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This new version of the recipe isn’t intended to more accurately replicate the film, but instead offer a nice-looking alternative that still retains a vintage Kodak essence. It has a “memory color” that is reminiscent of classic Kodak slide film. I especially like how this recipe renders blues.
Tetons in March – Grand Teton NP, WY – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Brilliance”
Because the Kodak Brilliance recipe uses Clarity and Color Chrome FX Blue, it’s only compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. I believe that you could also use it on newer GFX cameras, although I have not personally tested it. For the X-T3 and X-T30, feel free to try it, ignoring Clarity, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Grain size—it won’t look exactly the same, but will be pretty similar.
Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +4 Shadow: -2 Color: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -1 Clarity: +2 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: Daylight, +2 Red & -1 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1 to 0 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Brilliance” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V and Fujifilm X-E4:
On the Cusp of Spring – Hammond, OR – Fujifilm X-E4
Wet Fern – Columbia River Gorge, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Hanging Orange – Hammond, OR – Fujifilm X-E4
Blowing East – Hammond, OR – Fujifilm X-E4
Beach Staircase – Cannon Beach, OR – Fujifilm X-E4
Misty Ocean – Cannon Beach, OR – Fujifilm X-E4
Haystack Rock – Cannon Beach, OR – Fujifilm X-E4
Helicopter Behind Haystack Rock – Cannon Beach, OR – Fujifilm X-E4
Shipwreck Shell – Fort Stevens SP, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Peter Iredale at Sunset – Fort Stevens SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Anders sent me a lengthy note on his process to create this recipe, and I want to share with you a short snippet just so you get an idea of the effort put into this. “I checked the spectrum sensitivity chart and looked for any significant bumps in the wavelengths,” he wrote. “For the largest bump, I checked what color it represents to try to match it as close as possible with the white balance shift. This recreated the bump in the recipe to make the simulation a bit extra sensitive to that specific color.” This was point four of seven in his process, and shows the kind of effort that can go into creating Film Simulation Recipes.
Specifically about this recipe, Anders noted, “Middle gray is the game here. Soft highlights and things disappearing into deep dark shadows, but never as black as Tri-X. Great for all day shooting in just about any weather. Looks totally awesome on winter shots!” I can add that it looks great on both sunny days and rainy days, too. I think it does especially well in moderate and high contrast situations.
Footbridge & Falls – Multnomah Falls, OR – Fujifilm X100V – “Ilford HP5 Plus 400”
Ilford began the Hypersensitive Panchromatic (HP) series in 1931. HP5 Plus 400 is the latest version, released in 1989, and still available today. This is a classic black-and-white film stock that has stood the test of time, and Anders did a great job mimicking it on Fujifilm cameras. This recipe is intended for use on the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras; however, for the X-T3 and X-T30, as well as X-Trans III cameras, simply ignore Grain size, and this recipe is compatible with those cameras, so anyone with an X-Trans III or IV camera can use this.
A side note: this recipe is different than my old Ilford HP5 Plus and Ilford HP5 Push Process recipes, which I still quite like, and are both excellent in low and mid contrast situations. Try those or Anders’ version—or all three if you are feeling adventurous!
Monochrome Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +1 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: 0 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -8 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Ilford HP5 Plus 400” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Horsetail Falls From Bridge – Columbia River Gorge, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Horsetail Falls – Columbia River Gorge, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Upper Falls – Multnomah Falls, OR – Fujifilm X100V
36 CFR 261.53(e) – Multnomah Falls, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Use Caution For Slipping Bandits – Multnomah Falls, OR – Fujifilm X100V
No Cars – Astoria, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Two Elk in a Yard – Warrenton, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Spiral Stairs – Fort Stevens SP, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Old Fireplace – Fort Stevens SP, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Stairs in the Forest – Fort Stevens SP, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Astoria & Columbia River – Astoria, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Two Ships in the Columbia River – Astoria, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Tetons, As Seen By Oneskies – Grand Teton NP, WY – Fujifilm X100V
South Jetty – Fort Stevens SP, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Pointing To The Pacific – Cannon Beach, OR – Fujifilm X100V
Haystack Sticks – Cannon Beach, OR – Fujifilm X100V
