Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation Recipe: Kodak Portra 400 v2

Sage Sunset – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Portra 400 v2”

One film can have many different looks depending on how it’s shot, developed, scanned or printed. This new Portra 400 film simulation recipe, called Kodak Portra 400 v2, is an alternative aesthetic, created by studying examples of actual Portra 400 film (thanks to Julien Jarry). The “other” Fujifilm X100V Kodak Portra 400 recipe was also created by studying examples of actual film (thanks to Thomas Schwab). They’re both good options for achieving a Portra look, and neither is more “right” than the other.

This isn’t exactly a brand-new recipe. It was published as a Patron early-access recipe on the Fuji X Weekly App back on December 1st, and now another early-access recipe has replaced it, so this one is now available to everyone! You might remember that this Kodak Porta 400 v2 recipe was mentioned in the Kyle McDougall preset comparison article.

Ford Truck – Centerville, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Portra 400 v2”

If you like my other Portra recipes, you’re sure to like this one, too. Because it uses Clarity, it slows down the camera considerably. I hope that Fujifilm speeds this up with a firmware update at some point, but in the meantime, if you can, my recommendation is to embrace the slowdown. This recipe is only compatible with the latest Fujifilm X cameras: the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4 and X-S10.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: 0
Shadow: -2
Color: +2
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Clarity: -2
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: 5200K, +1 Red & -6 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this new Kodak Portra 400 v2 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:

Stacked Pallets – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Now Hiring – Centerville, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Double-Double – Centerville, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Burger Roof – Centerville, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Julien Jarry with RED Camera – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Julien Filming – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Yellow Rabbitbrush – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Frary Peak Peeking – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Desert Brush – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Light Log – Big Fork, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Sunlight Through the Forest Trees – Big Arm, MT – Fujifilm X100V
One Lane Bridge – Big Fork, MT – Fujifilm X100V
String of Lightbulbs – Flathead Lake, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Dock at Night – Flathead Lake, MT – Fujifilm X100V
Moon Over RV – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Sunset RED – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Buffalo Point Sunset – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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  1. Roger Solbakke · December 30

    It looks great. I look forward to try it. No I use Kk 64 and Bright Summer a lot and this one is an alternative. I should like more b&w 😬 I wish you and your family a very happy new year
    Best regards Roger

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · December 30

      Thanks so much! I think a lot of people are going to really appreciate this one. Report back what you think once you’ve had a chance to use it. You have a happy New Year, too!


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  3. Khürt Williams · January 1

    Love the colours.

    Liked by 1 person

  4. benedict · January 5

    Just got the X100F.. Any chances you’d make a Portra 400 V2 on that one? Thanks!

    Liked by 1 person

  5. Carn Patrick · January 9

    Just a quick word about the Clarity slowing down the camera. If you save your preset as normal you can simply switch the drive mode to one of the burst settings and Clarity will be deactivated automatically on all presets. I’ve added a 1/8 Tiffen Black Pro-Mist filter to my X100V which kind of adds a bit of a film look/clarity anyway. It works really well! I imagine a 1/4 filter would be really nice but possibly too strong for some tastes.

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · January 10

      Going negative on Clarity is a lot like using a Pro Mist filter, I’m thinking 1/8 or 1/4 is probably the best choices. I appreciate the tips!


  6. Jimmy · January 11

    Love this recipe, been interesting to see how it differs from the original look. I’ve also tried to replicate another Portra 400 look recently – the trendy one you see from plenty of analog photographers these days with pastel blues and cotton candy pink. I’ve tried using https://www.reddit.com/r/analog/comments/krx9vf/leica_m2_portra_400/ and https://www.reddit.com/r/analog/comments/ktj21m/winter_wonderland_yashica_t5_35mm_portra_400/ as a reference. I’m pretty sure that there’s editing involved with these, but I have tried to replicate it with little success. I’ve tried pinkish white balance shifts on classic chrome but it doesn’t look right, do you have any tips/ideas?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · January 11

      That first picture of the blue buildings in the snow, is either pushed or (more likely) edited with software. The second picture, that one seems possible to replicate. I’ll work on it and see if I can come up with something. I appreciate the suggestion, thanks!


  7. CEN DAI · January 18

    Hi! “Because it uses Clarity, it slows down the camera considerably. ” I can’t understand what slows down which function of the camera? Thanks!

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · January 18

      When you use Clarity the camera takes an extra second or two to save the image to the memory card.


      • Jacob Juul · 24 Days Ago

        I acutally took that first picture in the snow. It’s not editied, but it’s scanned on my Fuji Frontier sp-3000


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  10. Christian · March 15

    Hey! So I am curious. Since I have a 1/4 promist on my x100V, do turn off the clarity functions or…?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · March 15

      I would say, for negative Clarity, the Pro Mist filter pretty much accomplishes the same thing. So you can set Clarity to 0 for those recipes that call for a negative Clarity.


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  15. Gerardo Reyes · July 9

    so in order to use the recopies correctly, would you say is best to leave shutter speed in auto and the iso in auto ?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · July 13

      That’s how I shoot most of the time (aperture priority), but not always. There’s no right or wrong way. In manual mode, use the “typical” exposure compensation as a guide of how much to decrease or increase from what the meter suggests, but know that this is just a general guide and not a rule; each exposure should be judged individually. I hope this helps!


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  17. Brrrr · 24 Days Ago

    Love this recipe, but having trouble at night shooting indoor in my own place (way too “yellow”). Is there any recommendation on how to adjust perhaps WB or sth else to get better result?
    Also, are there specific recipes that’s best suited for indoor shooting in your opinion?

    Liked by 1 person

    • Ritchie Roesch · 24 Days Ago

      Back in the film days I carried warming and cooling filters to change the “white balance” of the film when shooting in various lighting situations. You could do that, but much more practically speaking, you could adjust the WB to Auto or one of the Fluorescent or Incandescent options instead, to get better results in that situation.


      • Brrrr · 9 Days Ago

        Thank you very much, Ritchie. Just a follow up question on WB, so the reason some of the recipes (like this one) choose a specific WB setting instead of auto is to more closely mimic the film property?

        Liked by 1 person

      • Ritchie Roesch · 9 Days Ago

        That’s exactly right! Although truly faithfully mimicking any film in all situations is impossible, but I try to get as close as I can.


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