Exposure Triangle | FUJI X WEEKLY

Exposure Triangle, Part 3: Understanding ISO

*Fujifilm X-T30 – ISO 25600 – Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Push Process*

Part 1: Aperture, Part 2: Shutter

As we’ve already discussed, aperture determines the amount of light that enters the camera, and shutter speed determines for how long that light is allowed to expose the camera’s sensor. The third aspect of the exposure triangle is ISO, which is how sensitive the sensor is to that light. Well, that’s not exactly true. ISO works much different with digital sensors than it did with silver halide film, but the basic premise is similar: the higher the ISO, the brighter and “grainer” the image; the lower the ISO, the darker and “cleaner” the image. ISO is found in the camera’s menu, and on some models is controlled by a knob on the top plate or via a wheel around the shutter knob.

This is the simplest of the three exposure triangle elements to grasp, and yet maybe the most difficult. With things like dual-native ISO and ISO invariance, it can be quite confusing. I don’t want to get too deep into the weeds here, because it doesn’t really matter all that much. Basically, Fujifilm cameras technically have just two ISOs: base gain (ISO 200 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 160 on X-Trans IV, ISO 125 on X-Trans V) and second gain (ISO 800 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 640 on X-Trans IV, and ISO 500 on X-Trans V). The base gain is the cleanest of the two. As the ISO is increased from the base gain, the picture becomes “noisier” (a.k.a. “grainier” or “grittier”) because the brightness is being turned up, making the digital noise more obvious. At the second gain point, a switch activates the second base ISO, and the image is actually cleaner than the ISO directly below it. As the ISO is increased from the second gain, it becomes “noisier” because the brightness is being turned up, making the digital noise more obvious. You could photograph at just those two ISOs, and using software increase the brightness, and the results will be the same as increasing the ISO in-camera. Clear as mud?

Another point worth mentioning is that Dynamic Range (DR) and D-Range Priority (DR-P) settings are ISO-dependent. In order to use DR400 or DR-P Strong, the minimum ISO required is ISO 800 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 640 on X-Trans IV, and ISO 500 on X-Trans V. For DR200 or DR-P Weak, the minimum ISOs are 400, 320, and 250, respectively. DR200 and DR400 are unavailable at the extended ISOs. This illustrates another point of confusion: while the maximum dynamic range (range of details between deep shadow and bright highlight) for DR100 is at base ISO, the maximum dynamic range in general is at the second gain point with the camera set to DR400 or DR-P Strong. Confusing, right?

*Fujifilm X-T50 – ISO 51200 – Nostalgic Neg. film simulation*

The old rule of thumb for ISO was to keep it as low as possible, and only increase it when necessary. I think that advice is a little outdated. Fujifilm cameras produce clean results that are very difficult to distinguish from each other at and below the second gain point, and are still pretty clean at and below ISO 1600. Above ISO 1600 the noise becomes more obvious, and it’s up to each person to determine just how high is too high, how much noise is too much noise. Generally speaking, on X-Trans III and newer cameras, I personally find that color photographs are good up to ISO 6400 and black-and-white up to ISO 12800. There are, of course, exceptions to this. You might desire the gritty aesthetic produced by using ultra-high ISOs. Each person’s tastes are different.

Because (for the most part) ISO isn’t all that important, I like to let the camera choose it for me with Auto-ISO. This works with either the Aperture or Shutter set to “A” (Aperture-Priority or Shutter-Priority). In Auto-ISO, the camera will choose the lowest ISO possible, and only increase it when necessary. You can choose the top and bottom ISO values, and the minimum shutter speed. It works really well most of the time. Also, like aperture and shutter, there are full stops (ISO 200, 400, 800 etc.) and intermediate third stops (ISO 250, 320, 500, 640, etc.).

Unless you desire a “grainy” photo, you want to keep the ISO low (however, no lower than the minimum for the Dynamic Range setting used). Find the maximum ISO that you are comfortable with, and set that as the top value of your Auto-ISO (basically, you can set-and-forget). I think a lot of people worry too much about ISO and digital noise—I invite you to try a higher ISO than you might otherwise set as the maximum, as you might find it to be more useful than you previously thought. For the cleanest photographs, keep the ISO low, no higher than the second gain point for your camera.

Exposure Triangle, Part 2: Understanding Shutter Speed

Posted on February 9 by Ritchie Roesch

*Fujifilm X100VI – f/11, ISO 500, 1/15 shutter – Kodak Gold 200*

Part 1: Aperture, Part 3: ISO

Shutter speed simply controls the amount of time that light is exposed to the camera’s sensor. How motion is rendered—either frozen still or as a blur—will depend on the shutter speed. There are a few key things to know, but overall this is all fairly easy to understand.

Before we dive in, I want to quickly revisit aperture, because there’s something I forgot to mention in Part 1. How sunstars and lens flare will appear depends on a number of factors, including (among other things) the aperture you’ve selected. For more pronounced sunstars, use a small aperture, such as f/16. If you want to minimize sunstars and lens flare, use a large aperture, such as f/2. This is just one more factor to consider when choosing the most appropriate aperture for the scene in front of you.

*Forest Sunstar* – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50 & Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens at f/14 – California Summer

Now, with that out of the way, let’s talk about shutter speeds. What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want?

The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is that it is the amount of time the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light in. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and ISO, and must be used in balance with the other two elements. On many Fujifilm cameras, the shutter speed is controlled by a knob on the top of the camera, marked with numbers like 125, 250, 500, etc., etc..

*Fujifilm X-T30 & Rokinon 12mm f/2 + tripod – 0.4 second exposure – Kodak Gold 200*

Some common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30. Like aperture, there are intermediate stops in-between the full stops—most commonly one-third stops, but sometimes half-stops.

Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion as a blur, while a fast shutter speed will freeze it. In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/450 shutter speed*

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/80 shutter speed*

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/60 shutter speed*

In order to freeze motion, there are a few considerations: the focal length of the lens, the distance of the moving object, and it’s speed. The longer the focal length of the lens, the faster the minimum shutter speed needs to be; the shorter the focal length, the slower the minimum shutter speed needs to be. The closer and faster the moving object is, the faster the shutter speed needs to be; the further and slower the moving object is, the slower the shutter needs to be in order to freeze it.

If nothing is moving in the frame, the only motion is the photographer. A tripod will eliminate camera shake; if you don’t have a tripod, in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS) or optical-image-stabilization (OIS) can help to a degree. If your gear doesn’t have stabilization, you’ll want to use this rule of thumb: whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 18mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 27mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/30. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 – f/9, ISO 320, 1/680 shutter – 1970’s Summer*

In order to freeze motion, for portraits, events, kids, and pets, I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/125, but faster is better, such as 1/250. For sports and moving wildlife, the minimum shutter speed should be 1/250, but faster is better, such as 1/500. If the motion is blurry, increase the shutter speed. In order to show motion as a blur, the maximum shutter speed will likely need to be under 1/125, and probably under 1/30, just depending on the situation. If the blur is insufficient, decrease the shutter speed.

Another shutter speed consideration is in regards to flash photography. Some cameras, such as the X100-series, have a leaf shutter, which allows for high-speed flash sync; however, most cameras don’t have a leaf shutter, and have a maximum shutter speed for flash. On Fujifilm models, this is marked by an “X” next to the shutter speed—for example, on the X-T5, the maximum shutter speed for flash photography is 1/250, which is marked as 250X on the shutter knob. The fastest shutter speed you should use with flash photography is the one with the X next to it.

*Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 + flash – f/4, ISO 500, 1/250 shutter – Nostalgic Americana*

The two main things to remember about shutter speed are 1) that it is used to show motion, either frozen still or as a blur, and 2) it is one aspect of the exposure triangle, and must be balanced with both aperture and ISO. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the light, so you may need to use a larger aperture and/or a higher ISO to compensate; reducing the shutter speed increases the light, so you may need to use a smaller aperture and/or lower ISO. It’s a balancing act. Used thoughtfully, shutter speed can express movement in creative ways, so take a moment to consider how to best use it for the scene in front of you.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
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Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
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Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
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Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
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Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
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Fujinon 90mm f/2:
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Fujifilm X100VI in black:
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Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
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Exposure Triangle, Part 1: Understanding Aperture

Posted on February 3 by Ritchie Roesch

*Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujinon 56mm f/1.4 lens at f/4 + Nostalgic Americana*

Aperture is a fundamental aspect of photography. The exposure (brightness) of an image is determined by the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO (referred to collectively as the “exposure triangle”). Yet many photographers don’t fully understand aperture, and when to choose which f-stop. It’s more than just a setting—it’s a creative tool that can dramatically impact the look and feel of your images. Understanding how aperture affects depth-of-field, exposure, and sharpness will help you take control of your photography and achieve your artistic vision.

With Fujifilm cameras, you’ll typically control the aperture via a ring on the lens, which are marked in f-stops. A large aperture has a low f-stop number, such as f/2, while a small aperture has a high f-stop number, like f/16. There are full-stops (e.g. f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22); in-between the full stops are intermediate stops, which are most commonly third-stops (e.g. (f/1.8, f/2.2, f/2.5, f/3.2, f/3.5, f/4.5, f/5, etc., etc.) and less commonly half-stops (e.g. f/1.7, f/2.4, f/3.3, f/4.8, etc.). A large aperture (low f-stop number, such as f/1.4 or f/2.8) allows more light into the camera and also creates a shallow depth-of-field (only a narrow slice in focus), making the subject stand out against a blurred background and/or foreground—common for portraits, where you want to separate the subject from distractions. A small aperture (high f-stop number, such as f/11 or f/16) allows less light into the camera and also creates a large depth-of-field (lots in focus), which is common for landscapes where you have several compositional elements at various distances from the camera.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Reggie’s Portra*

The closer the subject is to the end of the lens, the more shallow the depth-of-field will be, and the further the subject is, the larger the depth-of-field will be, regardless of the aperture. In other words, the focus distance and aperture work together to create the depth-of-field, whether narrow or expansive. To achieve a narrow slice that is in focus (a small depth-of-field), one should position the subject close to the camera and use a large aperture (for example, f/2); to achieve a broad slice that is in focus (a large depth-of-field), one should position the subject further from the camera and use a small aperture (for example, f/11).

The aperture you choose determines how much light enters the camera (shutter speed determines for how long the sensor will be exposed to that light). A large aperture (such as f/1.7 or f/2) allows more light to enter, which is useful in low-light conditions, such as indoors or at night. A small aperture (such as f/13 or f/16) reduces the amount of light, which is useful in bright daylight situations. Even though you might wish for a shallow or large depth-of-field, the conditions might prevent you from using the most ideal aperture for what you want to achieve.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/20 + Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm*

Adjusting the aperture affects other exposure settings. If you open up the aperture for more light, you may need a faster shutter speed and/or a lower ISO to compensate. Conversely, if you stop down the aperture, which allows less light, you might need to increase the ISO or use a slower shutter speed. This is a balancing act that should be thoughtfully considered—compromises are often necessary.

Aperture also influences sharpness. While stopping down (using a smaller aperture) generally increases the area of sharpness (depth-of-field), it might actually decrease sharpness. Every lens has a “sweet spot”—an aperture range where it delivers the best overall sharpness. For many lenses, this is between f/4 and f/8 (this is generally speaking, and varies from lens-to-lens, and even sensor-to-sensor). At large apertures (such as f/1.4), lenses can exhibit softness around the edges due to optical imperfections, and also decreased overall sharpness. At small apertures (such as f/16), diffraction can reduce overall image sharpness. Selecting the optimal aperture range for your lens will ensure the sharpest photographs.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm*

F-stop is more than just a technical setting, it’s an artistic choice. Large apertures can create dreamy backgrounds and subject isolation, small apertures ensure everything is in focus, while the middle apertures produce sharply detailed pictures. Whether you’re shooting portraits, landscapes, street photography, still-life, macro, or any other genre, the aperture choice will significantly effect the outcome, giving you creative control over your photography. Experimenting with different apertures will deepen your understanding of how they impact your pictures—the more you practice, the more intuitive it will become. The next time that you’re out with your camera, take a moment to consider the f-stop, because it’s one of the most powerful tools at your disposal.

Part 2: Shutter Speed, Part 3: ISO

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Clarifying (Typical) Exposure Compensation

Posted on January 25, 2023 by Ritchie Roesch

One aspect of Film Simulation Recipes that I get asked about a lot is Exposure Compensation. It has caused much confusion. This article is intended to clarify it, and hopefully by the end this puzzling parameter will be fully understood.

First, let’s briefly talk about the exposure triangle. In photography, the exposure triangle refers to the three main elements that control the brightness of an image: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. Aperture controls the amount of light entering the camera through the lens by adjusting the size of the opening, measured in f-stops. Shutter speed controls the amount of time that the camera’s sensor (or the film) is exposed to light, measured in seconds or fractions of a second. ISO measures the sensitivity of the camera’s sensor (or the film) to light, with lower ISO values indicating lower sensitivity and higher ISO values indicating higher sensitivity. These three elements work together to determine the overall exposure of an image.

*Illumination in the Dark Desert* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “CineStill 400D v1” Recipe – Exposure Compensation: 0

Whenever you are not shooting fully manual, but are relying on an auto or semi-auto feature, such as Aperture-Priority (you choose the Aperture, but the camera chooses the Shutter and possibly the ISO) and Shutter-Priority (you choose the Shutter, but the camera chooses the Aperture and possibly the ISO), you adjust the exposure using Exposure Compensation, which on most Fujifilm cameras is via a knob on top of the camera. You can increase or decrease the exposure in 1/3-stop increments. While some people do shoot fully manual, including myself on occasion, many photographers choose to use a semi-auto mode so that the camera handles some lesser important tasks for them. Because more people shoot semi-auto than fully manual, in the Film Simulation Recipes I state the appropriate Auto-ISO and typical Exposure Compensation, but this causes a point of confusion for the fully manual shooter: what do you do? The solution is simple: increase or decrease the exposure over what the light meter suggests by whatever the recipe says. If a particular recipe calls for +1/3 to +2/3 Exposure Compensation, simply increase the exposure over what the light meter says by that amount.

Which brings me to an important point. The suggested Exposure Compensation is not intended to be a rule, but merely a starting point. There are a lot of factors that determine the luminosity curve—the film simulation, Dynamic Range settings, Highlight, Shadow, and even Color Chrome Effect, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity play a role—and that curve is applied to the exposure (the entirety of the triangle). Because of this, it’s important to judge each exposure individually, to determine how the luminosity curve best fits within an exposure, depending on the exact light situation. In other words, “typical” Exposure Compensation is nothing more than a suggestion, which will work sometimes and won’t work other times, and it is up to you to figure out what will work best for each image.

*Cactus Evening* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Bright Kodak” Recipe – Exposure Compensation: +1

Another important point is metering. I use Multi most of the time, but sometimes I use Spot instead. It doesn’t really matter which one you use, because whichever you choose, you’ll still need to judge each exposure individually. However, it can be helpful to know that the typical metering mode used for suggested Exposure Compensations is Multi. If you are using the “typical” Exposure Compensation as a starting point, it will likely work better for you more often if you are also using Multi metering mode. It’s not critical to use any particular metering mode, but, if you are using something other than Multi, you should be aware that the suggested Exposure Compensation will be a little less helpful.

You cannot save an Exposure Compensation within the C1-C7 Custom Presets. Instead, you adjust it (on most Fujifilm cameras) via the Exposure Compensation Knob on the top plate. If your camera has the ability to Custom Name each preset, you could add the “typical” Exposure Compensation to the name as a reminder if you want to. Since you get immediate feedback on what your picture will look like, I wouldn’t get too caught up in worrying about “typical” Exposure Compensation; instead, simply look at the image, and determine if it is too dark or bright, and adjust if necessary.

*Cactus Spiderweb* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “Low Key” Recipe – Exposure Compensation: -1 1/3

Most Film Simulation Recipes often look better with a little boost in exposure over what the light meter says, and some look better with a decrease in exposure. But, it’s also situationally dependent. You might find that with a certain recipe you often use +2/3 Exposure Compensation, but then for a certain picture you set it to -1/3. Flexibility is key. To an extent, using Film Simulation Recipes is kind of like shooting slide film, in that you have to get the exposure correct in-the-field at the time of the exposure; however, your camera allows you to see exactly what the picture is going to look like, and you have some excellent tools in-camera to help, such as a histogram and highlight alert.

The takeaways are 1) the “typical” Exposure Compensation listed in each recipe is merely a suggested starting point and nothing more, and 2) each exposure should be judged individually. It’s understandable why this setting is confusing, and why I get so many questions about it. My best advice is to carefully examine the instant feedback your camera is providing you in a situation, and adjust the exposure, either brighter or darker, until it is how you want it to be. I hope this clears things up a bit.