IR photography | FUJI X WEEKLY

See Beyond the Visible with Infrared Photography

*Pacific Vista* – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

I’ve been asked about infrared photography quite a bit lately, especially after sharing pictures captured with my full-spectrum Fujifilm X-T4 ES and the Aerochrome v2 Film Simulation Recipe on Instagram. Infrared is a fascinating genre of photography because it allows you to See Beyond the Visible™ (someone should trademark that…) by capturing light that your eyes can’t see. The results can be stunning and surreal. It’s definitely abstract, but in the best way possible.

Infrared photography is not new. It dates back to the early 1900’s, when special emulsions made it possible to record wavelengths just beyond visible light. At first, infrared film was used primarily for scientific and military purposes. In the 1940s, Kodak developed Aerochrome, a color infrared film designed for aerial reconnaissance. Soldiers could spot camouflaged objects because foliage would render in vivid reds and pinks, while man-made materials appeared in other colors. Artists later adopted Aerochrome for its unique false-color palette, using it to transform ordinary landscapes into psychedelic dreamscapes. Jimi Hendrix Are You Experienced? and Frank Zappa Hot Rats album covers brought infrared photography a bit more into the mainstream in the late-1960’s. While it was always a niche genre, infrared photography became less popular in the 1990’s, forcing Kodak to scale back production of their IR films. The rise of digital cameras was the final nail in the infrared film coffin.

*Bird, Watching* – Bodega Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

Kodak discontinued Aerochrome production in 2009 (they continued to sell their stock for another two years, until they ran out). Nowadays, color infrared film is very difficult to find, and extremely expensive when you do find it. Digital cameras, however, opened up new possibilities. Modern camera sensors are inherently sensitive to infrared light, but an internal filter blocks it. By removing that filter—what’s called a full-spectrum conversion—you can once again see and photograph the invisible. The Fujifilm X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”) is a factory-modified, full-spectrum version of the X-T4, and it’s perfect for exploring infrared photography. B&H had some available for purchase, but you had to inquire either over-the-phone or in-person; however, it’s now listed as discontinued, so they’re likely all sold out.

I have three Aerochrome Recipes for X-Trans IV and X-Trans V full-spectrum infrared cameras: Aerochrome v1, Aerochrome v2, and Aerochrome v3. Each mimics a different possible aesthetic of the film to various degrees. Of the three, Aerochrome v2 is my personal favorite. The Recipe was created specifically for full-spectrum Fujifilm cameras (particularly the X-T4 ES) paired with specific filters—in this case: Kolari Vision IR Chrome, Hoya G(XO) Yellow-Green & Tiffen Yellow 2 #8. It’s intended to replicate the look of Kodak Aerochrome, with pink/red foliage and cyan skies—delivering bold, dreamlike colors. Like all Fuji X Weekly Recipes, the goal is to get the desired aesthetic straight-out-of-camera. No lengthy editing sessions required; just program the settings, attach the right filters, and shoot.

*Pacific Dusk* – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

I’ve used the Aerochrome v2 Recipe in a variety of locations—from the White Sands National Park in New Mexico to the streets of Philadelphia—and each time I’m amazed at how it transforms a scene. I especially love using it at the coast, which I was doing just last week (and where I photographed the pictures in this article). The way it renders foliage is stunning, and the overall color palette is wonderfully surreal. It’s a creative tool that makes you see the world differently.

If you want to dive deeper into infrared photography, go get yourself a full-spectrum converted camera, or have one you already own converted. The Fuji X Weekly App includes full-spectrum Recipes; in addition to the three Aerochrome options, you’ll find PurpleChrome, Cotton Candy Chrome, and Agfa 400S. Whether you’re chasing the look of discontinued films or just exploring unseen light, there’s likely a Recipe to suit your style; if not, I’m sure I’ll create several more over the coming months and years.

Infrared photography lets you step into a hidden world—one where the ordinary becomes extraordinary. With the right Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes, you can experience the excitement of seeing beyond the visible yourself. No channel swaps or extensive edits. You can achieve the look straight-out-of-camera, just like Aerochrome shooters did decades ago… only now, you don’t need a darkroom (or patience as your film is at the lab), just a little curiosity and the right settings.

10 Frames: Infrared in the Desert — White Sands National Park with Aerochrome v2

Posted on January 20, 2025 by Ritchie Roesch

*Red Yucca in the White Sand* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

A few weeks back, in-between Christmas and New Years, I briefly stopped in White Sands National Park in southern New Mexico for a couple of hours. Since it was the holiday season, the park was very crowded. There were so many cars, and people were everywhere! It was difficult to capture images without someone somewhere in the frame, and it was nearly impossible to find scenes without footprints.

My main objective for this stop was to photograph the White Sands with the Fujifilm GFX100S II at golden hour, with the hope of achieving one or two good XPan pictures. Secondarily, I wanted to create a few images with my Fujifilm X-T4 ES full spectrum infrared camera. I love using this camera, especially for the unusual pictures that it makes. My favorite Film Simulation Recipe for the X-T4 ES is Aerochrome v2, which I’ve used coast-to-coast and many places in-between, so that is what I chose for the White Sands.

The 10 frames in this article were made during about a two hour window in White Sands National Park using my Fujifilm X-T4 ES camera with a Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens and the Aerochrome v2 Recipe. It was partly overcast. Winter probably isn’t the best time to do infrared photography at this location, since much of the vegetation is dormant. Still, I came away with a couple good pictures, so I’m happy. But I know that I need to revisit the White Sands—hopefully next time I can dedicate a little more time to it. In the meantime, I hope that you enjoy these pictures.

*Pink Brush* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

*Yucca on a Sand Hill* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

*Yucca & Brush* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

*Yucca at the Top of a Hill* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

*Yucca Hanging Over* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

*Bush in the Sand* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

*Desert Yucca* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

*Infrared Yucca* – White Sand NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

Infrared Photography on Fujifilm Full Spectrum Cameras

Posted on January 13, 2025 by Ritchie Roesch

Did you know that you can photograph invisible light? Full spectrum infrared cameras can see beyond what you and I can perceive with our eyes, providing a unique way to view the world.

Lightwaves within the visible spectrum are between about 380-780 nanometers, but there is light outside of what the human eyes can see. On one end is Infrared, also called Thermal Radiation, which is from 780nm to 1 millimeter (700nm to 780nm is sometimes referred to as near-IR). On the other side is Ultra Violet, which is from 380nm to 10nm. Camera sensors are sensitive to these lightwaves, so manufacturers place a filter over the sensor to block the invisible light. If not for this filter, your pictures would look abnormal compared to what your eyes see. Full spectrum cameras don’t have this filter, and are sensitive to the full range of lightwaves.

Above: Full spectrum images without filters, photographed on a Fujifilm X-T4 ES.

Fujifilm has made several full spectrum cameras. First was the S3 Pro UVIR in 2006, followed by the IS-1 (infrared version of the FinePix S9100) in 2007, then X-T1 IR in 2015, then GFX100 IR in 2020, and finally the X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”) in 2024. Typically, Fujifilm does not offer these models to the general public; instead, they are strictly only for “forensic, scientific, and cultural preservation applications.” The X-T4 ES is the first full spectrum model that Fujifilm has sold to the general public, albeit quite quietly. As of this writing, I believe that the only place you can buy the Fujifilm X-T4 ES is from B&H, but it requires a phone call or in-person visit, and cannot be ordered from the internet. If that changes, I’ll be sure to let you know.

For those unable to buy a Fujifilm X-T4 ES (which is a standard X-T4 just without the infrared/UV filter over the sensor), you can convert any Fujifilm camera to full spectrum. It requires an expensive and invasive procedure from a third-party vendor like LifePixel, Kolari Vision, or Spenser’s Camera (there are others, too). Sometimes you can find an already converted camera for sell. You can also get a specific infrared filter over the sensor in place of the removed filter, but that is a much more limiting approach than a full spectrum conversion, and you have to know that you’ll be happy with your filter choice before committing to it, or else you might find yourself regretting your decision. The easiest option—if you can find it, which might be a big if—is the X-T4 ES. I hope that Fujifilm makes this model (or something similar) more easily available to purchase.

One consideration for full spectrum cameras is the lens. Many lenses suffer from IR hotspots, and can perform less than optimally when used with a full spectrum camera. Many lenses are good wide-open at maximum aperture, but as you stop down the hotspot appears. The Fujinon 35mm f/2 is good at all apertures, and that is the one that I most commonly use with the X-T4 ES. There are several databases (here, here, here) for which lenses are good for full spectrum cameras, and which ones to avoid.

Another consideration is filters. You don’t need a filter to use your full spectrum camera, but you can use various filters, such as the Kolari Vision IR Chrome, to control the wavelengths of light that hit the sensor. You can achieve many various looks by the filters you use in conjunction with the camera settings, including film simulation and white balance. These filter and camera setting combinations are called Full Spectrum Film Simulation Recipes, which allows you to achieve striking photos without editing. As of this writing, I have published five Recipes: Aerochrome v1, Aerochrome v2, PurpleChrome, Cotton Candy Chrome, and Agfa 400S. More are in the works, so stay tuned for that.

Clockwise, from top-left: Aerochrome v1, Aerochrome v2, PurpleChrome, Cotton Candy Chrome, Agfa 400S.

Capturing the invisible light spectrum is extremely fun and rewarding because it transforms an ordinary scene into something truly extraordinary. The world becomes a fanciful place filled with unexpected colors. It’s like a crazy dream, except that it’s real, if only you could see it—full spectrum cameras allow you to peel back the curtain and take a peek.

Interestingly, you can actually do infrared photography with non-converted Fujifilm cameras, because the X-Trans sensors are sensitive to near-IR light. My Full Spectrum Film Simulation Recipes won’t work, because those require a full spectrum camera like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES, but nonetheless you can still do IR photography with a 720nm IR filter (which blocks most visible light) on a regular, non-converted model. It’s fun to try! Since most of the light is blocked, you will be using high-ISOs and/or longer exposure times. If you do this, be warned: you might get bit by the IR bug, and find yourself converting a camera, or searching out an X-T4 ES.

Above: B&W IR photo from a non-converted Fujifilm X-E4 & 720nm filter.

Aerochrome v2 — Fujifilm X-T4 ES (Full Spectrum Infrared) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on August 29, 2024 by Ritchie Roesch

*Yellow Bus* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

I’m in love with this Aerochrome v2 Film Simulation Recipe! It’s for full-spectrum infrared cameras like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES, and not “normal” cameras. You must have a full-spectrum X-Trans IV or X-Trans V model, which requires an expensive and invasive procedure from a third-party vendor; otherwise, the X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”) is a full-spectrum camera briefly offered by Fujifilm (it’s very difficult to find, but in my opinion totally worth owning). So if you have the right gear, you’ll want to try out this Aerochrome v2 Recipe today!

Not only do you need the “right” camera—a full-spectrum model like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES—but you also need the “right” filters. This Recipe requires three: Kolari Vision IR Chrome filter, Hoya G(XO) Yellow-Green filter and Tiffen Yellow 2 #8 filter. The IR Chrome filter is intended for infrared photography, while the Yellow-Green and Yellow filters are for B&W film. I’m not sure if the order matters, but I have the Yellow filter first (closest to the lens), the IR Chrome next, and the Yellow-Green last (furthest from the lens).

*Architecture* – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

This Recipe produces Aerochrome-like pictures, but it doesn’t behave exactly like the film. Even so, the fact that you can get this look straight-out-of-camera is amazing! If this was the only Recipe that I could ever use on my Fujifilm X-T4 ES, I’d be very happy. I do have an Aerochrome v1 Recipe that has less green and yellow hues and a more pronounced blue tint, plus I’m working on a handful of others, so if this isn’t the look that you want, there are (or will be shortly) other options. But this Recipe… it’s what I hoped to achieve when I purchased the camera a couple of months ago. Oh, and surprisingly, it’s excellent for night photography.

Filters: Kolari Vision IR Chrome, Hoya G(XO) Yellow-Green & Tiffen Yellow 2 #8
Film Simulation: Velvia
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: Daylight, +7 Red & +6 Blue
Highlight: +2.5
Shadow: -0.5
Color: +4
Sharpness: 0
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Aerochrome v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T4 ES:

*Grass & Sand* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Driftwood Log* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Red Beach* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Red Rock* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Boards & Boats* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Vans* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Red Trees Behind Rooftop* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*House at Dusk* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Flowers in the front Yard* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Seaweed by the Rocks* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Girl Holding a Dead Crab* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Mayflower* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Boats in the Bay* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Tree behind Columns* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Parthenon* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Parthenon Pillars* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Patina* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Kids at a Lake* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Steps to the Water* – Plymouth, MA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Reflected Red* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*CSX Train* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Turning* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*City Trees* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Boats off the Water* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Little Dam* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Palm, Architecture & Moon* – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Lily Pond* – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Palms & Structure* – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Kelp Washing Ashore* – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Surfer* – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Sidecar Dog* – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Not Always Sunny* – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Autumn in August* – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Window with a View* – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Lifeguard Tower 5* – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Luke’s 32* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Cookin’ & Drinkin’* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Food Mart* – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Broadway* – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

Comparison:

The Colorful World of Infrared — Experiments in Full Spectrum Photography

Posted on July 19, 2024 by Ritchie Roesch

The Fujifilm X-T4 ES is an ordinary X-T4 but without the IR filter—it’s actually full-spectrum. Fujifilm has produced several IR cameras in the past, but the X-T4 ES is the first that they made available to the general public. Despite no fanfare, the camera sold-out quickly. Hopefully Fujifilm will produce and sell some more copies of the X-T4 ES (or another similar model), because I’m certain there is demand for such a camera.

While I’ve only had my Fujifilm X-T4 ES for a few days now, I’ve been busily photographing with it any chance that I get. Already I’ve made some wonderful discoveries that I cannot wait to share with you in the coming weeks and months. Capturing the invisible light spectrum is extremely fun and rewarding because it transforms an ordinary scene into something truly extraordinary. The world becomes a fanciful place filled with unexpected colors.

Common advice found everywhere on the internet is that you need some specific infrared filters (which are often expensive), and most likely you will need to significantly edit the RAW files, which likely includes color channel swaps. With a couple exceptions, there’s not a good way to get good straight-out-of-camera results. I’m happy to report that that is not true. You will (for the most part) need some filters, but probably not the ones you’ve been told that you need. And you can get excellent results straight-out-of-camera, no editing needed.

The pictures below demonstrate several different looks that I’ve been able to achieve right out of the Fujifilm X-T4 ES. They’re unedited JPEGs (other than some cropping and straightening). Capturing striking pictures like these on a full-spectrum Fujifilm camera is very easy. You can expect some Film Simulation Recipes for infrared photography to come soon. I haven’t named the Recipes yet (or even finalized them… they still might be tweaked), so I’ve sorted them by prominent color.

Purple/Lavender

Sort of reminiscent of LomoChrome Purple film.

Raspberry/Red

An Aerochrome film aesthetic.

Salmon/Pink

Also an Aerochrome film aesthetic.

Brown

The color of late-autumn.

Yellow

Yellow fall-like rendering.

B&W

No color, but interesting nonetheless.

Fujifilm X-T4 ES (Extended Spectrum) Infrared Camera

Posted on July 16, 2024 by Ritchie Roesch

Fujifilm quietly released a special edition of the Fujifilm X-T4, and nobody noticed. Specifically, it’s the X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”), which is a full-spectrum infrared camera. Digital camera sensors are sensitive to light outside of what humans can see, and a filter is added to the top of the sensor to block those wavelengths so that you get normal-looking colors. The Fujifilm X-T4 ES is an ordinary X-T4, just without the infrared filter over the sensor, allowing the camera to capture invisible light, which dramatically transforms an ordinary scene into something dreamlike.

I’ve wanted to try infrared photography for decades. A long time ago I shot one roll (I believe it was Ektachrome EIR, but I don’t remember for certain); however, none of the frames turned out—mostly because I really didn’t know what I was doing way back then. More recently, I learned that many Fujifilm cameras have some IR sensitivity, so I made several infrared photographs with a non-converted camera; however, that was only a tease.

The problem with modern infrared photography is that (with a few exceptions) it requires you to ship out your old gear to have an expensive and invasive procedure performed in order to remove the IR filter. There are a couple of places that will do it, and at a few different times I strongly considered sending out my old X-T1 to be converted to full-spectrum. You can also buy one that’s already done, but it will either be a used model with a roughly $500 premium, or a new model with that same premium and without a warranty. Two years ago I suggested that Fujifilm should offer an IR camera, and now they have, so I bought it!

The Fujifilm X-T4 ES is not the first infrared camera made by Fujifilm. The first was the S3 Pro UVIR in 2006, followed by the IS-1 (infrared version of the FinePix S9100) in 2007, then X-T1 IR in 2015, then GFX100 IR in 2020, and finally the X-T4 ES in 2024. However, the X-T4 ES is the first made available to the general public, as the others were specifically for “forensic, scientific, and cultural preservation applications.” Fujifilm very quietly released the X-T4 ES only on their website and with almost no promotion. Nobody even noticed it! Well, almost nobody—the camera was sold out within about a week. I’m not sure how many copies were produced—whatever the number, they were gone very quickly. I think it goes to show that there is a demand for such a camera, and Fujifilm should do something similar soon, but have more units available for purchase.

Yesterday a Fujifilm X-T4 ES arrived at my doorstep. I’m very underprepared, and excitedly waiting for some infrared filters to arrive in the mail (you need various filters to control the light to achieve different outcomes) within the coming week; however, I was surprised to learn that my old color filters for B&W film photography work for infrared. Also, unfiltered full-spectrum pictures can be quite interesting, too. I have so much to learn, and a ton of experiments to do, but so far I’m thrilled and amazed by the results—there’s a ton of potential!

I’ve only captured a small number of photographs with the new camera, and just right around the house—nothing even remotely series. The general rule of thumb that I have seen online is that IR pictures require significant editing (including color channel swaps) to get good results, particularly for color images. Of course—you know me—I’m interested in straight-out-of-camera pictures that don’t require editing, so my goal is to create Film Simulation Recipes for use with the full-spectrum Fujifilm X-T4 ES. I have a long ways to go, so it will likely be awhile before I publish anything. With that said, the pictures below are all unedited camera-made JPEGs that I’ve captured with my Fujifilm X-T4 ES, so maybe it won’t take so long afterall.

Fujifilm Infrared Experiments

Posted on April 8, 2021 by Ritchie Roesch

*A straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph captured with a Fujifilm X-E4.*

I’ve had a fascination with infrared photography for a very long time. Using light beyond the visible spectrum to create pictures often produces unusual results—an ordinary scene can become extraordinary with infrared photography. While I’ve been interested in this type of photography for awhile, I’ve not experimented much with it. Many years ago I shot a roll of IR film, but it didn’t turn out very well; up until these experiments, that was my entire IR experience. I’m an infrared novice.

A little more than a year ago I purchased a Fujifilm X-T1 with the intentions of doing a full-spectrum conversion. Digital camera sensors are sensitive to light beyond the visible spectrum, so manufacturers put a filter over the sensor to block that extra light. There are a couple of companies that will remove the filter, but the process isn’t cheap. I’ve yet to send off my X-T1 to get a full-spectrum conversion, but I still hope to do so someday.

Even though digital cameras have a filter to block infrared light, many cameras are still IR sensitive. You can test your camera by pointing a TV remote (which works via infrared light) at it. When you press a button on the remote, if your camera is IR sensitive, you’ll see the infrared light in the LCD or electronic viewfinder. It turns out that my new Fujifilm X-E4 is indeed IR sensitive!

I didn’t want to spend a lot of money on this experiment, so I purchased a Fotga IR720 filter on Amazon for $20. The number corresponds to light wavelength. Visible light falls between 400nm and 700nm. Ultraviolet light is below 400nm, and infrared light is beyond 700nm. The filter number—in this case 720—refers to the light cutoff point. In other words, the IR720 filter blocks light below 720nm, and allows light 720nm and above to pass through. Because this filter blocks visible light, it allows a heck-of-a-lot less light to reach the sensor, which means you will be using larger apertures, higher ISOs, and/or slower shutter speeds—a tripod is helpful tool.

Another consideration is the lens. Many lenses have IR hotspots, which makes them not especially great for infrared photography. Thankfully, there’s a large database that shows which lenses are good and which ones aren’t. It turns out that my Fujinon XF 35mm f/2 R WR is a good lens for IR, so I purchased a 43mm-threaded filter for it.

One thing that I knew going into this project is that digital infrared photography often involves significant editing. Some of the classic infrared looks involve swapping color channels and making large adjustments to the color curves. My photographic philosophy has evolved into: as best you can, get it in-camera. My goal with this experiment was to get good infrared results in-camera without editing, or perhaps minimal editing at most.

What I discovered is that it’s not really possible to get good color IR photographs straight-out-of-camera because the filter puts a strong red color cast on the picture. I set the white balance to 2500K with a shift of -9 Red (and Blue set to anywhere between 0 and +7), but unfortunately that drastic white balance adjustment isn’t strong enough to combat the red. For whatever reason, I liked the Astia and Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulations better than the others. For black-and-white, Acros+R with Highlight and Shadow set to +4 looked good, although I think it’s possible to get similar results without the use of an IR filter.

These are straight-out-of-camera pictures from my Fujifilm X-E4 with a 35mm f/2 lens and IR720 filter:

*Straight-out-of-camera infrared photograph*.

The black-and-white pictures are good, but the color images aren’t anything great. I wanted to see if the color pictures could be improved by using an app like Snapseed. Maybe a quick edit could make a big improvement. If I couldn’t achieve desired results straight-out-of-camera, perhaps the next best thing would be a simple edit on my phone.

I gave the same exposure two different treatments in Snapseed. Take a look!

*This is straight-out-of-camera unedited.*

*White Balance and other adjustments in Snapseed.*

*Color Curves and other adjustments in Snapseed.*

The two strategies that I explored in Snapseed were adjusting the White Balance and changing the Color Curves, and these two methods produced much different results. Adjusting the White Balance or messing with the Color Curves in Snapseed can have a big impact on the image; either strategy works, with varying results. Still, using these methods in Snapseed was more involved than I wanted, and delivered mediocre results. Better than straight-out-of-camera? Yes, definitely. But not as good as I would have liked.

I also tried using Capture One to post-process some RAW files, and the results weren’t all that much better than using Snapseed—yet it adds another step and takes extra time. Really, the best software for editing infrared pictures is Lightroom or Photoshop, not Capture One, because you need the ability to swap color channels. You can get alright results editing infrared pictures with Capture One, just keep expectations low. Or maybe there’s a trick that I haven’t discovered.

*An infrared picture edited with Capture One.*

Overall I was disappointed with my color infrared photographs. It’s not possible to get anything other than a picture with a strong red color cast straight-out-of-camera, which is alright sometimes but certainly not all of the time. I didn’t find any good quick fixes. Maybe there’s a shortcut that I’m missing, but I think good digital infrared photography in general typically requires significant editing, and using the right post-processing program.

The black-and-white photographs look good straight-out-of-camera, but I don’t think that I achieved anything special using the IR filter (compared to what I could have done without it). I’m not sure that it’s worth the hassle of the infrared filter for black-and-white photography, although I might play around with it more; perhaps there’s a potential that I’ve yet to discover.

Not being one to quickly give up, I kept looking for a solid solution to easily achieve good-looking color infrared pictures. I had to think outside-the-box. Was the IR filter necessary? Was a good facsimile possible? I knew it wasn’t possible straight-out-of-camera, but maybe a simple filter in an app could do the trick? That’s when I discovered RNI Aero! The app is free, but requires a $10 annual subscription to unlock its usefulness. RNI also makes an infrared simulation plugin for Lightroom (that’s significantly more expensive than the app). This post isn’t sponsored by them (or anyone), but I have been enjoying this simple solution for simulating infrared photography, so I wanted to share it with you. While I would prefer to do this in-camera (Fujifilm, please make an infrared film simulation), the RNI Aero app is the simplest and quickest way to get infrared-looking pictures without fuss. I’m happy with the results—more happy than using an actual infrared filter on my X-E4.

Below are pictures edited with the RNI Aero app:

*Non-infrared picture edited with RNI Aero.*

I’m not giving up on actual infrared photography. I still hope to someday do a full-spectrum conversion on my X-T1, and attach the Kolari IR Chrome filter to mimic Kodak Aerochrome straight-out-of-camera. That would be a lot of fun! Maybe I’ll discover some other method I’ve overlooked to easily get good results without the need for significant editing. In the meantime, I’ll use the app to get infrared-like results whenever I feel the need for an IR look.

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