My Post-Processing Workflow

Red Barn – Ronks, PA – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodachrome 64

Sometimes I like to go back through the archives of this website, just to see what I wrote years ago. For example, on this day in 2018, I published My Fujifilm Post-Processing Workflow, which, looking back, wasn’t my best work. I had to reread one of the paragraphs twice just to understand what I meant—and I was the one who write it! That’s embarrassing. So I decided to rewrite the article, and make it relevant to 2025.

The question is: What is my post-processing workflow? In other words, what do I do with my photographs after they’ve been recorded to the SD Card? The answer is very simple: Download, crop/straighten, and upload. Of course, that’s the short, simplified answer. Let’s get right into a longer explanation.

Horsetail Falls from Bridge – Columbia River Gorge, OR – Fujifilm X100V – Improved Velvia

I’m a straight-out-of-camera photographer. I use Film Simulation Recipes to get the looks that I want in-camera, and avoid editing. This isn’t how I always did it. I used to shoot RAW and post-process my photographs in software on a computer. Once I realized that I could achieve my desired aesthetics in-camera without editing, I abandoned post-processing. This was immensely freeing, and it quite literally changed my life (no hyperbole). I became more productive, photography became more enjoyable, and my at-home life benefitted significantly, too.

When I wrote the original version of this in 2018, I was strictly JPEG-only at that time. I stopped shooting RAW altogether for awhile; however, RAW+JPEG has significant benefits, and for years now I’ve been shooting RAW+JPEG. One benefit of having the RAW file is that it can be reprocessed in-camera or with X RAW Studio (which, essentially, are the same thing—I don’t use X RAW Studio personally; I reprocess in-camera). First, it makes creating new Recipes much, much simpler (not simple, just simpler than doing so in a strict JPEG-only process). Second, I’m able to correct small exposure mistakes by reprocessing in-camera using the Push/Pull Processing feature (which is an exposure adjustment, and does not mimic push or pull processing in a darkroom). Third, I can change to a different Recipe altogether if I decide that I used the wrong one—this is something I try to avoid (it’s better to select the right one in-the-field), but it is sometimes worthwhile when the picture would have been better with a different Recipe. To reprocess a RAW file in-camera, simply push the Q-button while in playback mode.

Fire, Truck – Lordburg, NM – Fujifilm GFX100S II – 1970’s Summer

The RAW files never leave my SD Card. Some people will keep them just incase they may wish to edit them in the future. It gives them a backup. I will keep the RAW file on the SD Card for awhile, but when the card fills up, I erase it. I don’t keep the RAW files. I see the JPEG as the finished photo, so I don’t desire to fill up an external hard drive or cloud storage with RAW files that I’m unlikely to ever have any use for.

Once I’m done photographing and ready to do something with my photos, I will cull through the images on my camera. Which ones do I want to keep? I select the frames I want, and transfer those JPEGs from my camera to my phone using the Cam Remote App or X App. I have both apps on my phone, and much prefer the old Cam Remote App, because 1) I’ve been able to get it to work for me consistently and flawlessly and 2) it is compatible with all of my cameras, and not just some (although the latest firmware updates for the newer cameras remove compatibility with the old app). The main point here is that I use one of Fujifilm’s apps to transfer the photos to my phone.

Pool Remnant – Rodanthe, NC – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Tri-X 400

After that, I use the Photos app on my iPhone to crop and/or straighten the pictures that need it. Even with the electronic level, I am so bad at getting a straight picture. For Recipes that use Strong/Large Grain, the Photos app will sometimes put a weird grid pattern on the picture (mainly with the Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe), so for those I will use the Snapseed app for cropping/straightening. Most of my post-processing edits are complete at this point. For the majority of pictures, that’s it; however, some picture do require a minor exposure/brightness adjustment, and I also use the Photos app for that. For 99%+ of my photographs, that is the full extent of the editing. On a rare occasion, I will use Snapseed or the RNI app to apply further edits, but that’s pretty unusual nowadays, especially for pictures from my Fujifilm cameras.

Once I’m done with the editing stage, I upload the pictures to cloud storage. That’s it! I’m done, and ready for more photography. Downloading the pictures from the camera and uploading them to the cloud is probably the most time-consuming part of the process. The edit stage is pretty quick because not every picture needs an edit, and for those that do, it’s mostly just a quick tilt or a crop to remove a small distraction from the edge of the frame. I can have a whole vacation completely finished within a couple of hours.

Orange Twist – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI – California Summer

A question that I often get is: If you print those pictures do they look good? Absolutely, they look great! I recently did some 2′ x 3′ prints from straight-out-of-camera JPEGs that look amazing. I’ve had great results with 16″ x 24″ prints from the 24mp and 26mp sensor cameras, and 12″ x 18″ prints from the 16mp sensor cameras. I think you can go larger than those sizes, but for sure you can go that large. I don’t do anything to prepare the images for print, I just have them printed at a quality lab, who I know will do a good job.

Post-processing can be as complicated or as simple as you’d like it to be. I much prefer a simple workflow, which has made a world of difference for me personally. I avoid editing, and mostly just crop and/or straighten, and sometimes make minor exposure adjustments. I can get through a whole day’s worth of pictures pretty quickly, which allows me to move onto other things, like more photography or spending time with my family.

My Fujifilm Post-Processing Workflow

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Sunlight Through The Forest – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm XF10 – Unedited JPEG

I was asked today to explain my post-processing workflow, which isn’t the first time that I’ve been asked this question. It reminded me that I should explain this as it’s something that people are obviously interested in. Without wasting another minute, I’ll dive right into the topic of my Fujifilm post-processing workflow.

Here it is: shoot, download, upload. Repeat.

That’s oversimplified, but not far from the truth. I use my film simulation recipes and adjust as needed to get the look that I want straight from the camera, no editing required. Most of the time I don’t post-process my photographs, relying on camera-made JPEGs instead. Fujifilm cameras are capable of producing wonderful JPEGs that resemble what other people get after fiddling with RAW files for awhile in software on a computer, only no fiddling is needed.

I have spent so many years shooting RAW and post-processing the files on my computer at home. I was spending more time developing the pictures than capturing the pictures. I won’t do that anymore! My time is too important to me. I love that I don’t need to do that song-and-dance with cameras like the X100F and X-Pro2. I can get the look that I want right from the camera 95% of the time. I snap the picture and already I have a finished photograph.

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Hazy Sun Behind The Ridge – Ogden Canyon, UT – Fujifilm X-Pro2 – Edited with RNI Films

Sometimes I’m not quite able to get the photograph that I want straight from the camera and occasionally I do need to manipulate the exposure using software. About half of my post-processing involves nothing more than minor cropping and straightening crooked horizons. Maybe 10% of my photographs require this, and I use the Snapseed app on my phone for this type of editing. It’s real quick and simple. I will also sometimes make small manipulations, such as changes to brightness, shadows, contrast and saturation, using Snapseed, but it’s not often that I do this. To get a certain look that requires a heavier edit, I use the RNI Films app on my phone. I’m able to mimic the look of any number of different films with one touch. I try to produce a JPEG out of camera that’s as close as I can get to the look that I want, and layer the film preset over that using the strength (opacity) slider to achieve the finished look. I resort to this technique with perhaps 5% of my photographs.

All that I wrote above is true for my X-Trans III cameras, but with the XF10 that I sometimes shoot with and the X-E1 and X-A3 that I used earlier in the year, I find that I’m post-processing a little more, and perhaps 30% of the photographs receive some editing. It is a little harder to get straight out of camera the look that I want with these cameras. Still, I try to achieve the results I’m after in-camera, and often times I can successfully do so. When I do need to edit I want to keep it to a minimum and spend as little time as possible on post-processing.

Using apps like Snapseed and RNI Films is great because I upload the photographs from my camera to my phone using WiFi, so there’s no need for a computer. Most of the pictures go directly from my phone into digital storage within minutes of leaving the camera. Some receive a level of post-processing using one of the two apps, but most do not. Often it’s shoot, download and upload, and that’s the extent of my post-processing. Occasionally I do manipulate my photographs, but I keep in mind that less is usually more, and I try to put the minimal amount of time and energy into it as I can get away with.