How to Find Fujifilm Recipes Without Clarity

One of my favorite in-camera tools for Film Simulation Recipes is Clarity. This feature goes a long way towards emulating a soft negative film aesthetic or a crisp slide film look seemingly captured through a lens with great micro contrast. But if Clarity is set to anything other than 0 (a.k.a. Off), it causes a brief storing pause. This pause, which is about the same amount of time as advancing to the next frame on a film camera, can be used to slow yourself down and be more deliberate, but it can also be annoying and cause you to miss the shot in fast moving situations. Not everyone wants to be subject to this delay.
Clarity primarily (but not exclusively) adjusts the middle tone contrast of a photo, which can have a significant impact on the overall look of your pictures. Increasing Clarity (up to +5) enhances local contrast, making textures and fine details appear more pronounced, giving photographs a crisp, gritty, and sometimes dramatic appearance. Decreasing Clarity (down to -5) does the opposite, softening the transitions between tones and producing a smoother, gentler, and sometimes dreamy aesthetic. Clarity is different from Sharpness, although the two can have a somewhat similar effect on the perceived details in a photograph.

A negative Clarity value can have a similar affect of using a diffusion filter. Very roughly speaking, -1 or -2 Clarity is along the lines of using a 1/8 Pro Mist or 5% CineBloom filter, -3 or -4 Clarity is similar to 1/4 Pro Mist or 10% CineBloom, and -5 Clarity is more like a 1/2 Pro Mist or 20% CineBloom. You could use a diffusion filter in lieu of minus Clarity to avoid the storing pause. A positive Clarity value can have a similar affect as using a crisp lens, such as a Zeiss, Leica or maybe Voigtlander, or a sharp slide film like Kodachrome 25. Unfortunately, there is no alternative to a plus Clarity setting other than using a lens with high micro-contrast.
I don’t have a ton of Fujifilm Recipes that have Clarity set to 0. Most of my Recipes utilize this feature. I have hoped for many years now that Fujifilm would reduce or even eliminate the storing pause, but that has yet to happen. Maybe with the next generation of cameras this will finally be addressed. But I do have some Recipes—such as the new KinaColor 26—that have Clarity set to Off. If you don’t want the storing pause, how do you find those?

The answer is actually pretty simple. Late last year I introduced a new feature in the Fuji X Weekly App called Categories. There are two different ways that you can interact with Categories, one that’s available to everyone and one that is for Patron subscribers only. I just added a new Category to this called Clarity Off. Whether you are using this feature as a subscriber or non-subscriber, it is now possible to find the Film Simulation Recipes that don’t call for Clarity. The easiest way is for Patron subscribers: tap Filter, select By Category, and choose Clarity Off. If you are not a Patron subscriber, open the KinaColor 26 Recipe in the App, scroll to the bottom, and tap Clarity Off. This is only for cameras that have Clarity available (X-Trans IV and V), so don’t use this option if your camera is older and doesn’t even have Clarity (which basically are X-Trans III and older, plus the X-T3 and X-T30). If you don’t have the Fuji X Weekly App, it’s available on both Apple and Android.
If you don’t like the Clarity storing pause but want to use Recipes that utilizes Clarity, you do have a few options. First, you can simply set it to 0. If a Recipe calls for between -2 and +2 Clarity, the difference is subtle enough that it might not matter enough to you, and simply setting it to 0 is an easy solution. Since a lot of Recipes use a minus Clarity value, you could use a diffusion filter instead. Another idea is if you are not in a hurry, simply have Clarity on, but when you need to be quick, set the camera to a burst mode (CL or CH), which disables Clarity (sets it to 0); simply switch back to Still Image (S) when you no longer need to be quick. Fujifilm’s suggestion is to shoot RAW+JPEG with Clarity set to 0, but reprocess the RAW in-camera or with X RAW Studio and add the Clarity setting at that time. Personally, I just use the pause to slow myself down, which helps me to be more deliberate and in the moment. There’s no right or wrong approach, only whatever works best for you.































































