Oak Creek in Monochrome – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5 – FRGMT B&W
A couple of weeks ago Fujifilm announced the GFX100RF Fragment Edition, a limited-edition version of the GFX100RF, which will only be available in Japan. The camera was modified by fashion designer, producer, and artist Hiroshi Fujiwara, the founder of Fragment. Interestingly, it comes preloaded with a Film Simulation Recipe by Hiroshi called FRGMT B&W, which is in the Film Simulation menu in lieu of the Monochrome Film Simulation. This is the first official Fujifilm Recipe, and the first (as far as I’m aware) by Hiroshi Fujiwara. Fujifilm published the details of this Recipe within the GFX100RF Fragment Edition announcement, which means that anyone can use it, and not just those in Japan who purchase the limited-edition camera.
When I saw this, I knew that some of you would want to try the FRGMT B&W Recipe, so I shared it. I wasn’t going to make it an “official” Fuji X Weekly Recipe or include it in the Fuji X Weekly App unless I had permission to do so from those involved. I reached out to Fujifilm and asked for permission, but I knew it was a long shot. My request was forwarded up the chain all the way to Japan. I didn’t think the odds were very good, but, perhaps as a Christmas miracle, the answer came back pretty quickly. To my shock, yes, I do have permission, both from Fujifilm and from Fragment, to publish this Recipe. Wow!
Cheers – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5 – FRGMT B&W
It’s such an honor to get this permission, not only because it’s the first Recipe included in any of Fujifilm’s cameras, but also because it was created by Hiroshi Fujiwara. For those unaware, that’s a really big deal. Hiroshi has collaborated with Eric Clapton twice. He appeared on the big screen in Lost in Translation. If someone like Pharrell Williams created a Film Simulation Recipe and then gave me permission to include it on this website and in the Fuji X Weekly App, that would be fairly equivalent to this (obviously, there is only one Hiroshi Fujiwara).
The FRGMT B&W Recipe produces a contrasty and grainy black-and-white aesthetic. It reminds me of Ilford Delta 400 pushed one stop. I didn’t study or research that; it’s more of a “memory color” (as Fujifilm puts it) of using Ilford Delta 400 and push-processing it 25 years ago or so. I don’t believe this Recipe was intended to resemble any specific film or process, but if you were to ask me what film this Recipe most closely mimics, it’s Ilford Delta 400 pushed one stop. Again, that’s not based on research, but just what I remember from way back in my film days.
Shadow Shapes – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – FRGMT B&W
With the exception of the X-T3 and X-T30, this FRGMT B&W Recipe is compatible with all of the fourth and fifth generation models: Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III. It’s also compatible with the GFX100S, GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF. Because this Recipe uses Clarity set to something other than 0, there is a short storing pause after capturing a photo, with a similar delay as advancing to the next frame on a film camera. I want to give a big shoutout to both Fujifilm and Fragment for allowing me to publish this, and also to Hiroshi Fujiwara for creating it. Thank you!
Film Simulation: Acros (including +Ye, +R, or +G) Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC 0 & MG 0 (Off) Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue Highlight: +4 Shadow: +2 Sharpness: -4 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +5 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically) — Hiroshi says +1/3
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this FRGMT B&W Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E5, X-T5 and GFX100S II:
Notice – Gatlinburg, TN – Fujifilm X-E5
Regular – Gatlinburg, TN – Fujifilm X-E5
Abandoned Gas Pumps – Gatlinburg, TN – Fujifilm X-E5
Mercedes-Benz – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Broken Shelving – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
West Fork – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Fujifilm Photographer – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Monochrome Leaves – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Flowing Creek – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Lost Creek, Found – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Creek in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Rural Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Supai – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Rocks in the Sky – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Pirate – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Classic Design – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
The Man in Black & White – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Tall Bank, Empty Lot – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 400 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Coastal Photographer – San Francisco, CA – Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak Plus-X 125
This new Kodak Plus-X 125 Film Simulation Recipes comes to us curtesy of Dylan Van Matre. “The short story is that I’ve been a film shooter for a long time,” Dylan told me, “and one of my favorite films during that time has been Kodak Plus-X 125. When I moved to Fuji and discovered Film Simulation Recipes, one of the films I looked for was Kodak Plus-X 125. It was a favorite of mine during the early 90’s. I couldn’t find one published by someone else, so I endeavored to make my own. I enlisted the help of Anders Linborg to learn about Recipes and how to create them.”
“When I decided to try and create this Recipe,” Dylan continued, “I thought that I should try and learn from someone who has created ones that I enjoyed and felt were accurate. Anders with his Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe (and others) immediately came to mind. I emailed him inquiring about his creation process. Anders was kind enough to respond, and he gave me a great check list on how to go about creating a Recipes. I download the specification sheet for Plus-X 125 film and found the spectrum analysis chart. I found the most prominent peak on the chart and made a note on the frequency that it’s located. That’s how I decide upon my white balance.”
Irrigation Pipe – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Plus-X 125
“From there I picked the response curve that I felt was most appropriate,” Dylan said, “which led me to the Acros film simulation. After that I used the reference images I had, which were a bunch of Plus-X scans from the early 90’s, and I starting shooting with my Fujifilm camera. I’ve shot in all kinds of lighting conditions over the last couple years, making tweaks here and there. After some fine-tuning, I had created a Recipe that I feel most represents Plus-X 125 film. I want to thank Andors Linborg for his amazing advise, and I want to thank Ritchie for his amazing website.”
Included in the email was a private link to some of Dylan’s photos captured with this Kodak Plus-X 125 Film Simulation Recipe, as well as some of his scans of actual Kodak Plus-X 125 film. It was quite obvious to me comparing the two that this Recipe is a good match, and Dylan did an excellent job creating it. He certainly put in a lot of research and effort to get this right. Thank you, Dylan Van Matre, for creating and sharing this Recipe!
Cactus & Barbed Wire Fence – Rock Springs, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodak Plus-X 125
Plus-X was a long-running classic B&W negative film by Kodak, known for its fine grain, sharpness, and moderate contrast that made it popular for both professional and amateur photographers. Originally introduced in 1938 as a motion picture film, it evolved over the decades. The ISO 125 version was released in 1954. After more than 70 years in production, Kodak discontinued Plus-X in 2010, with the last batch shipping in 2011, marking the end of an era for one of the company’s longest-running emulsions. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) and X-Trans V cameras, as well as newer GFX models.
Film Simulation: Acros (including +Ye, +R, or +G) Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC 0 & MG 0 (Off) Dynamic Range: DR200 Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +9 Red & +9 Blue Highlight: -1 Shadow: +1 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to -2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Plus-X 125 Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T5, X100VI, X-E4 & GFX100S II:
Distant Dust Storm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Estrella Mountains from White Tank Foothills – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spewing Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Truck Junk Yard – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Table 18 – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Sunlit Banister – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Saguaro & Dark Storm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifim X-E4
Closed for Storm Damage – Navarro, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Post in the Water – Bodega Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Coastal Cove – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Wild at Heart – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Photo by Amanda Roesch
Angled Doorway – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 400 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Old Church – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5 – Classic B&W
I love black-and-white photography. Kodak Tri-X 400 is my favorite monochromatic option, and (unsurprisingly) it’s by far the most popular B&W Recipe. For whatever reason, color Film Simulation Recipes tend to be a lot more popular than monochrome, so there are quite a few more of them; however, I really enjoy publishing a good B&W Recipe, and I’m quite excited about this one in particular. It’s really good, in my humble opinion.
The story behind this Classic B&W Recipe is unusual. While leading a photowalk in Manitou Springs, Colorado, with Mike’s Camera, someone asked me to explain the process of creating a Recipe. So I walked him through the process right there in Manitou Springs on a Fujifilm X-E5, and created this JPEG settings combo while doing so. I remember thinking that it looked nice, but pretty much forgot about it until after I returned home and reviewed the photos. After using it a little more, it quickly became one of my favorite B&W Recipes. Kodak Tri-X 400 still ranks a little higher in my book, but this one is easily a Top 5 for me.
Coffee – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5 – Classic B&W
While I only used this Classic B&W Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E5 and X100VI, it is fully compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3 and X-T30) and X-Trans V cameras. For those keeping score, that’s (as of this writing) the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, and X-E5. You can also use this on the latest GFX cameras, including the GFX100S, GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF. For the Fujifilm X-T3, X-T30, and X-Trans III models, consider trying the Analog Monochrome Recipe, which isn’t too dissimilar.
Film Simulation: Acros+G Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC 0 & MG 0 (Off) Dynamic Range: DR200 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Incandescent, -9 Red & +9 Blue Highlight: +3 Shadow: +4 Sharpness: +1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Classic B&W Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E5 and X100VI:
Monochrome Umbrella – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Empty Chair in a Dark Room – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Lonely Chair – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Hanging Shadows – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Grey Odadiuc – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Shadow Abstract – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Suburban Palm Shadow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Coffee Cups – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
In the Raw – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Facing North – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Horse on a Ledge – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Baldwin 2 – Manitou Springs, CO – Fujifilm X-E5
Mission Church – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 400 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Round Window – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
I get asked fairly regularly which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular. For me, this is a fascinating topic, but it’s definitely hard to know definitively. While I get a glimpse on social media, my best gauge is the Fuji X Weekly website statistics; specifically, which Recipe articles are viewed the most. I don’t collect any data on the Fuji X Weekly App, so that’s no help—although, if I did, it would likely offer the most accurate picture; however, it would still be impossible to know which Recipes people programmed into their Fujifilm cameras, or how often they used each. Perhaps a survey would be particularly useful, yet even it has its limitations. While certainly a flawed method, page-view website statics offer the best glimpse at which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular, so that’s what I’m using for this article. These are simply the Top 10 most-viewed B&W Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly website so far in 2024.
It’s close enough to the end of the year that there is unlikely to be much movement, if any, between now and January 1st, so I thought it would be a good time to begin looking at year-end statistics. When I share the Top 25 most popular Recipes of any given month, the results are pretty predictable: color Recipes dominate, especially those that mimic Kodak film stocks and use Classic Chrome. On the suggestion of a Fuji X Weekly reader, I’m going to share some Top 10 articles for Recipe categories where few are likely to crack the Top 25 overall. I’m starting with black-and-white, and we’ll see where this all goes from here.
I knew that Kodak Tri-X 400 would be Number One. It’s far-and-away the most popular black-and-white Film Simulation Recipe for Fujifilm cameras, and is in the Top 15 overall. Second place is a distant second, and not close to cracking the Top 25. I really didn’t know how the others would rank, and I was quite surprised by some of them. Four of these use the Acros film simulation (I thought more would), and six use the Monochrome film simulation.
Without any further delay, below are the most popular B&W Recipes of 2024!
Top 10 Most Popular B&W Film Simulation Recipes of 2024
This is the long-time most popular B&W Recipe on Fuji X Weekly. It’s based on the Acros film simulation, and has compatibility with X-Trans III, X-Trans IV, and X-Trans V models.
This is the highest ranked Recipe that uses the Monochrome film simulation. It is compatible with X-Trans IV (except the X-T3/X-T30) and X-Trans V cameras.
Based on Acros, this was one of the very first Film Simulation Recipes published on Fuji X Weekly. It is compatible with X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 and X-T30.
Another Monochrome-based Recipe, this one is compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30; for use on X-Trans III, simply ignore the settings that your camera doesn’t have.
Last but certainly not least is Kodak T-Max 400, which also uses the Monochrome film simulation. It has compatibility with X-Trans III, X-Trans IV, and X-Trans V models.
Dan Allen, who created this Film Simulation Recipe after shooting with Kodak T-Max 100 film and his Fujifilm X-T5 side-by-side, noticed that there are a lot of subtle variances in the film. Even within the same roll, there can be small differences from frame-to-frame, and one Recipe can’t mimic them all; however, instead of creating five or six different versions of a Kodak T-Max 100 Recipe, Dan made two that were “close enough” to the emulsion to be convincing: Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone and Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone.
The “Hard Tone” version has a little more contrast, with brighter highlights and deeper shadows, and this Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone Recipe has less contrast, with softer highlights and lifted shadows. The difference between the two isn’t huge, nor should it be. And it is perfectly alright to customize them further—”season to taste”—by making small adjustments to Highlight, Shadow, etc., especially since the variances cannot be fully mimicked by just two Recipes. You might try using the Highlight setting from one version with the Shadow setting of the other—or just use them as they are, and appreciate the excellent results.
Above photos by Dan Allen. Left: Kodak T-Max 100 Film / Right: Fujifilm X-T5 & Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone Recipe
This Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible (as of this writing) with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, and X-T50 cameras. Presumably it will also be compatible with the camera that Fujifilm is about to announce (rumored to be the X-M5). You can also use this Recipe on the latest GFX models, although it will likely render slightly differently (try it anyway).
Film Simulation: Monochrome+G Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC 0 & MG 0 (Off) Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, -6 Red & -3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: +1.5 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -1 ISO: up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone Film Simulation Recipe using a Fujifilm X-T5 and X100VI:
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Ritchie Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Joy Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Joy Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Ritchie Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Ritchie Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Ritchie Roesch
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Comparison:
Left: Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone / Right: Kodak T-Max 100 Soft Tone
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 350 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Joy Roesch
Kodak introduced T-Max 100 and T-Max 400 in 1986, and T-Max P3200 two years later. It was touted as a fine-grained, sharp and detail-rich black-and-white negative film. Interestingly, ever since T-Max was released, there has been a divide in the photographic community around this emulsion: people either loved it or hated it. Those who loved it tended to not like Tri-X, and those who hated it tended to love Tri-X; you were likely in one camp or the other. Tri-X was more gritty, dramatic and versatile, while T-Max was softer, cleaner, and more finicky. All-in-all, you are not likely to spot huge differences between the two as a casual observer, but those who regularly shot with these films could easily distinguish the nuances.
This particular Film Simulation Recipe, called Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone, was created by Dan Allen after shooting some rolls of Kodak T-Max 100 film side-by-side with his Fujifilm X-T5. He did his best to match the X-T5 photos to the T-Max frames. This was not an easy task, and took a lot of adjustments and refinements. Dan spent a lot of time and effort on this. He discovered that it would take a handful of versions of the Recipe to replicate all of the variances that can be found even within the same roll, and ultimately determined that one Recipe cannot mimic them all. His solution was to create two versions—one with a higher contrast and one with a lower contrast—that are “close enough” to be acceptable facsimiles for most of the variabilities.
Above photos by Dan Allen. Left: Kodak T-Max 100 Film / Right: Fujifilm X-T5 & Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone Recipe
Even though this Recipe does a pretty darn good job of replicating Kodak T-Max 100, it is always ok to “season to taste” the settings. Don’t be afraid to increase or decrease Highlight and Shadow, for example. There are a lot of factors that can determine the exact aesthetic of the film, so some small tweaks might be necessary to get it precisely as you want it. Or, just leave them as Dan created, and enjoy the lovely results.
This Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible (as of this writing) with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, and X-T50 cameras. Presumably it will also be compatible with the camera that Fujifilm is about to announce (rumored to be the X-M5). You can also use this Recipe on the latest GFX models, although it will likely render slightly differently (try it anyway).
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Film Simulation: Monochrome+G Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC 0 & MG 0 (Off) Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, -6 Red & -3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +0.5 Shadow: +2.5 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -1 ISO: up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone Film Simulation Recipe using a Fujifilm X-T5 and X100VI:
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Ritchie Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Ritchie Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Joy Roesch
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Dan Allen
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Joy Roesch
Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak T-Max 100 Hard Tone – Photo by Ritchie Roesch
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 350 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Black-and-white pictures are abstract by nature. They’re not faithful reproductions of the world as we see it. Because it is abstract, the photographer is invited to capture the scene in a unique way, with a vision that is dissimilar to—and perhaps even the opposite of—reality. It’s not so much about what the scene is, but about how we see the scene through a divergent eye, and how we can express that to the viewer. It’s a timeless approach to fine-art photography.
The strength of color photographs is color, but it’s also its weakness. When color works within a color theory—perhaps contrasting or harmonious—it can create an especially dramatic or beautiful picture; however, when the colors within an image work against each other, it can be a distraction. B&W photos remove the distraction of color, allowing the viewer to see the important elements without color fighting for their attention—it’s the art of subtraction.
Black-and-white photography is about light and shadow. It’s about contrast. It’s about shape. Texture. Pattern. Space. Emotion. Those are very important elements to color photography, too, but they’re even more critical to B&W pictures. Mastering monochrome will make you a better photographer, even for your color work.
Join myself and Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry as we finish our discussion of B&W photography in-depth on SOOC Livethis Friday, August 25th, at 10:00 AM Pacific Time, 1:00 PM Eastern. I’ve included the video below so that you can easily find it on Friday. Also, if you haven’t uploaded your photographs captured with the Kodak Tri-X 400, Kodak T-Max P3200, Ilford HP5 Plus 400, and/or Acros Film Simulation Recipes, be sure to do so ASAP (click here)! There’s not much time, so don’t delay. I hope to see you on Friday!
Also, if you missed our the initial discussion of black-and-white photography, check it out below:
The world is full of color, so why would one want to photograph in black-and-white? It’s so old-fashioned anyway. Are there any good reasons to make monochrome pictures in 2023?
In 1826, the first photograph was captured by Joseph Nicéphore Niépce in France. It was black-and-white because the first process was B&W. But then in 1861 the first color picture was made by James Clerk Maxwell and Thomas Sutton in Scotland. That should have been the end of B&W photos, right? Actually, color photography didn’t catch on for a very long time because the process to create them was much more complex than B&W, and their color reproduction not particularly accurate. Kodak launched Kodachrome slide film in 1935, which was the first reasonably accurate color process. That should have been the end of B&W, but it wasn’t. In fact, many photographers shunned color photography, and derided it as for amateurs. Black-and-white was for the serious, while color was not.
The New American Color movement of the 1960’s and ’70’s is really what made color photography an acceptable art form. It challenged the idea that “real” photography was only in monochrome. Color images could be just as good as, or perhaps even better than, B&W pictures. It revolutionized photography.
Epic Zip Line – Sundance, UT – Fujifilm X100F – Agfa Scala Recipe
That was so long ago. Color photography is the norm now, not black-and-white. Your digital camera captures a color picture, and you have to convert it to B&W if you want to see in shades of grey. B&W has become a niche of sorts.
So why should you shoot black-and-white photographs in 2023? What reasons are there, other than nostalgia for a time long gone? I love B&W photography, so let me offer a few to you.
Black-and-white pictures are abstract by nature. They’re not faithful reproductions of the world as we see it. Because it is abstract, the photographer is invited to capture the scene in a unique way, with a vision that is dissimilar to, and perhaps even the opposite of, reality. It’s not so much about what the scene is, but about how we see the scene through a divergent eye, and how we can express that to the viewer. It’s a timeless approach to fine-art photography.
The strength of color photographs is color, but it’s also its weakness. When color works within a color theory—perhaps contrasting or harmonious—it can create an especially dramatic or beautiful picture; however, when the colors within an image work against each other, it can be a distraction. B&W photos remove the distraction of color, allowing the viewer to see the important elements without color fighting for their attention—it’s the art of subtraction.
Playing with Waves – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe
Black-and-white photography is about light and shadow. It’s about contrast. It’s about shape. Texture. Pattern. Space. Emotion. Those are very important elements to color photography, too, but they’re even more critical to B&W pictures. Mastering monochrome will make you a better photographer, even for your color work.
Fujifilm cameras are particularly great for black-and-white photography thanks to their wonderful film simulations: Monochrome and especially Acros. Many different Film Simulation Recipes can be made using these as the base, with a wide variety of characteristics. Pick one that looks interesting to you, and shoot with it for a day or two to see what you get. My personal favorite is Kodak Tri-X 400, but there are so many that are really good, it’s hard to go wrong with any of them.
Whether you’ve been shooting black-and-white for decades and decades, or if you never have before but are interested, I invite you to join myself and Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry as we discuss B&W photography in-depth on SOOC Livethis Thursday, August 3rd, at 10:00 AM Pacific Time, 1:00 PM Eastern. I’ve included it below so that you can easily find in on Thursday.
If you missed last Thursday’s SOOC Live broadcast, where Nathalie and I finished our discussion of travel photography, be sure to watch it now. I’ve included it below, or visit the SOOC Live YouTube Channel. Also, if you haven’t seen the Viewers’ Images slideshow (your pictures!), I’ve added that to the bottom of this article—be sure to watch!
The story that I found in that email was absolutely incredible! Whether or not you ever use the Film Simulation Recipe that Anders sent to me, the story itself makes this article a worthwhile read. I was (and still am) just blown away by it! It’s funny how life comes full circle in surprising ways sometimes.
“Some years back,” Anders Lindborg wrote me, “I found myself being totally photographically stuck. People liked my photos, but I could feel there was something missing from them and I thought they were still too amateurish. By chance, a photography magazine published an article called Learning How to See in which they mentioned a photographer named John Sevigny, an art teacher at a university in Mexico City. The magazine referenced Mr. Sevigny because he often talked with his students—and had also written some papers—about the subject of the article. Anyway, I started searching the internet and found many articles about him and his work. I also found some of his papers on the subject. Afterwards, I noticed that something gradually happened to my photos, and I realized that I could often see a deeper meaning in random ordinary things, people’s expressions and behavior. It really helped me, and I swore to never forget about this guy.”
“Life is funny,” Anders continued, “and I think I’m slowly starting to believe in this karma stuff. As it happens, awhile back I was contacted out of the blue by no other than John Sevigny himself! He had apparently found my stuff published on Fuji X Weekly very interesting and asked very kindly if I could help him out with the final touches on his upcoming book. The project that he had been working on was really heavy stuff, so he was temporarily burned out and needed some technical assistance, which I gladly provided. After the material for the book was finished, we continued chatting and I’m now proud to call him my friend.”
“After weeks of talking about photography, John mentioned that he really missed shooting with Kodak T-Max P3200 that he used to use all of the time while working as a news photographer. So, he said, how about making a recipe for it? I couldn’t resist, so we started developing it immediately. John provided me with all the information about the emulsion that I could possibly need, including a bunch of his own 25-year-old scans, but most important was his experience of shooting it daily for years. According to John, anytime there was a request for something that was going to be an article inside the newspaper, that’s the film they used since the available light would almost always be ranging from bad to worse. It didn’t matter if it was a sports event or a murder, they used Kodak T-Max P3200. After reading up about it (since I never shot it myself, sadly), I understood why: it was optimized to create sharp and (reasonably) detailed photos in generally bad light.”
Now Serving Bacon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodak T-Max P3200 Recipe
“Much care and testing has been put into this recipe by both John and myself,” Anders concluded, “and since John had all this experienced with the film, he had to be the one to officially approve it, which he did. I couldn’t be happier with the results we got from the tests! I actually put his scans in a photo album together with my test shots and the only thing revealing was the lens quality. When using the recipe with a vintage lens, I promise that you’ll have a really hard time telling your photos apart from the real film! Even some of the film’s tell-tale quirks have been replicated.”
Wow! Thank you, Anders Lindborg and John Sevigny, for creating this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe and allowing me to share it with the Fujifilm community on Fuji X Weekly—your work is much appreciated! I really love how Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes are bringing people together across the world—it’s truly amazing! As great as this Recipe is—and it is great—the story behind it is even better.
Like Anders, I have also (sadly) never shot with Kodak T-Max P3200 black-and-white negative film (I went with Ilford Delta 3200 instead). Originally released in 1988 (the ISO 100 and ISO 400 versions were released two years prior), Kodak discontinued T-Max P3200 in 2012, but reintroduced it (with an “improved” emulsion) in 2018. It’s actually an ISO 800 (some say ISO 1000) film that labs automatically develop with two stops of push-processing, unless you tell them otherwise. But you can shoot it at ISO 800 and not push or ISO 400 and pull one stop (for less contrast) or ISO 1600 and push one stop. Some (brave? crazy? desperate?) photographers even shot it at ISO 6400 and pushed it three stops! Kodak T-Max P3200 can basically be anywhere from an ISO 400 to an ISO 6400 film, and it can go from a fairly flat and fine-grained emulsion to a punchy and gritty film, just depending on how you shot and developed it.
With this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe, the higher the ISO you shoot with, the more it will resemble shooting the film at a higher ISO and push-processing, and the lower the ISO it will more resemble shooting at ISO 800 and not pushing in development. In other words, you are going to get somewhat different results at ISO 640 than ISO 6400; I especially appreciate how this Recipe looks from ISO 3200 to ISO 12800. You will need to consider if you want a cleaner or more grainy aesthetic, and choose an ISO that will produce those results.
If you have a Fujifilm X-Trans IV camera (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-S10, X-T30 II) or X-Trans V (X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, X-S20, and any other released after publication), I invite you to give this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe a try! It’s not compatible with the X-T3 or X-T30 or X-Trans III, unfortunately; however, if you ignore Toning, Grain size, and Clarity, it should still produce good results, so don’t be afraid to give it a try. This Recipe should also work with GFX cameras, although I haven’t tested it and have no firsthand experience if it will look similar or not.
Film Simulation: Acros (orAcros+Y, Acros+R, Acros+G) Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC -1 & MG -1 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5500K, +4 Red & +7 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +3 Sharpness: +2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +1 ISO: up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5, X-E4 and X100V cameras:
Tall Flower Vine – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Tiny White Blooms – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Garden Bulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Forest Stream – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
38th Way – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Palm in the Contrail Sky – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Tall Cactus – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Highlight & Shadow Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Backyard Barrel – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Water Wheel – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Castle Rock – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jet Above the Rocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cloud Above the Desert – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Arizona’s High Desert – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Oak Creek & Cathedral Rock – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Rocks & Big Sky – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Busy Parking Lot – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Delilah – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sunlit Suburban Tree Branch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Peaceful Pool – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Josh by the Pool – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Closed Umbrella 2 – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Towel on Chair – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Empty Bench – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Please Don’t Litter – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilom X100V
Basket – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Hoop & Pine – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Bus Rider – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Camera Fight 1 – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Camera Fight 2 – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sisters in the Back of the Bus – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Lady with Paw-Print Earring – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Joy’s Smile – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Girl Along a Wall – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Preparing Hands – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sink Full of Dirty Dishes – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Fake Plant – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Floor – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Table Lamp – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Outdoor Patio Lights – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Betty Elyse – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
ISO 640 vs ISO 12800:
ISO 640 Crop
ISO 12800 Crop
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I find a few things intriguing by this. First, a lot of people say that there’s no market for such a camera, that only the Leica enthusiasts with Leica-like budgets will buy a monochrome-only camera. Yet Pentax apparently disagrees. I hope they’re right. It’s certainly a risk that they’re taking, but I think it will do well enough simply based on all the initial hype, which there’s quite a bit of.
The Pentax K3 III Monochrome (such an uninspired name, right?) has a 26-megapixel APS-C sensor inside. Sound familiar? My guess is that it’s the same Sony sensor that’s found in Fujifilm X-Trans IV models, just with the color filter array removed. I could be wrong about that. Perhaps more importantly, this monochrome sensor is clearly available for camera makers to buy, because Pentax is doing so, which means Fujifilm could, too.
The price difference that Pentax is charging for the monochrome vs the regular model is $500. That seems pretty steep, but it’s a niche product, so a premium should be expected. I suspect that Fujifilm would likely charge a similar amount—$300 to $500—for a monochrome version of one of their models, if they were to make one.
I’ve been suggesting for years that Fujifilm should make a dedicated black-and-white camera, and call it the Acros Edition. Why? With an X-Trans sensor, 55% of the light-sensitive sensor elements are recording luminosity information while 45% are recording color information. With a monochrome sensor, 100% of the light-sensitive sensor elements are recording luminosity information. Because of this, you get higher perceived resolution, as pictures will appear more richly detailed, and there’s more shadow latitude, which improves dynamic range and high-ISO capabilities. You can also use color filters just like with black-and-white film. It’s definitely not a camera that everyone will want, but some—myself included—will line up for it the day it is announced.
Basically, it will have only the Acros film simulation, and the same JPEG options as other X-Trans cameras (except no Color or White Balance). I can imagine Fujifilm offering a stronger Grain option than what’s currently available on the other models, and perhaps an Acros Hi and Acros Low, for higher or lower contrast rendering. I’d also like to see a lifted shadow option for a faded look. The X-Pan aspect ratio should absolutely be included. Otherwise, I don’t think too many modifications will be required to the menu.
Hopefully Fujifilm is already working on this. They should be, anyway, but they’re probably not. Ideally, it would be an X-Pro or X100 model, but at this point I’d take any, except for the X-S or X-H lines. Seriously, a Fujifilm X-Pro3 Acros Edition or X100V Acros Edition would be simply incredible! It would definitely catch people’s attention. If Fujifilm wants a WOW product, this is it right here.
The story doesn’t end there. Recently, Fuji X Weekly reader Dan Allen wanted to help create an Ilford FP4 Plus 125 recipe, and he purchased some rolls of the film to shoot side-by-side with his Fujifilm camera. When he told me this, I sent him Anders’ recipe to try. After he did his experiment, Dan shared with me the results, which were quite fascinating. It turns out that Dan’s Ilford frames and his Fujifilm digital pictures (using Anders’ recipe) looked similar, but the Ilford frames had less contrast, with softer highlights and shadows, so I made a few small modifications to Anders’ recipe to better match Dan’s pictures. Of course, one film can have many different looks, depending on how it was shot, developed, printed, and/or scanned. “This particular film stock,” Anders told me, “is highly tunable, ranging from super clean to ultra gritty.” No single recipe will ever recreate every possible aesthetic from the film.
“Just like the real thing,” Anders explained to me, “a slight underexposure protects the highlights and improves contrast. Centered around the upper half of the grayscale, this recipe ranges from soft and dreamy to sharp and almost graphic with pencil-like lines. It will almost never go entirely black and is great for shadow details.” Ilford originally introduced FP4 Plus 125 way back in 1968, and in 2014 they improved the emulsion, which is what’s currently available.
Bougainvillea Grey – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Ilford FP4 Plus 125”
If you want to use Anders Lindborg’s recipe as he created it, set Dynamic Range to DR100, Highlight to 0, and Shadow to -1. He says that you can “really go crazy” with Clarity and Grain—try Clarity anywhere from -2 to +4, with Grain Weak/Small when using less Clarity (for a cleaner look) and Grain Strong/Large when using more Clarity (for a grittier look). Also, feel free to use the different faux filter options (+Ye, +R, +G) with this recipe.
The Ilford FP4 Plus 125 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S, and newer X-Trans IV cameras: X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. If you have an X100V or X-Pro3, you can use Anders’ unmodified version (explained above); for the X-T3, X-T30, plus X-Trans III, additionally ignore Clarity and Grain size. This recipe is especially well suited for mid-to-high contrast scenes, paying careful attention to the highlights so as to not clip them.
Film Simulation: Monochrome Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +6 Red & -8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: -1.5 Monochromatic Color: 0 WC & 0 MG Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1 to -1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Ilford FP4 Plus 125” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Projector Light – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fog Lights – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Disco Ball – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Christmas Concert – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Light Lines – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Shade Pull – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Light on a Small Rug – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Call it a Fuji X Weekly Holiday – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Christmas Gift – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Legos for Christmas – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Was a Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Backlit Petunia – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dark Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lizard on a Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Block Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gate – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joy – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Waiting by the Pool – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Butcher – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tamale TV – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reading the Morning Paper – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Coffee Sugar – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hydrant Top – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Geometric – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Rooftop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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I just learned that Chuck Drummond passed away this last Friday at 79-years-old. I met him once, and he was very kind. My deepest sympathies go out to the Drummond family, who I’m sure are still mourning.
This last summer my family and I embarked on an epic roadtrip that took us through Oklahoma. Pawhuska was a little out of the way, but we made sure to detour through it so that we could visit The Mercantile, the restaurant/coffee shop/bakery/gift store owned by Ree Drummond, who is also known as The Pioneer Woman.
For those unfamiliar, Ree Drummond became famous for her cooking blog, where she shared recipes used to feed her family and the hungry ranchmen, which turned into books, television shows, product lines, and The Mercantile, among other things. She lives on a large ranch in rural Oklahoma. Pawhuska was barely on the map before Ree became famous—now it’s still barely on the map, although it certainly has seen a significant resurgence, and it can become quite busy with tourists. Yes, for The Pioneer Woman fans, Pawhuska is a destination.
I’ve written about Pawhuska before, and I don’t want to rehash that; instead, I want to share a serendipitous encounter while in the small town, which I’ll remember for some time to come.
We awoke to steel grey sky and light rain. After getting ourselves put together, my family and I strolled around the small town of Pawhuska, which was almost deserted—the weather seemed to scare people off, or at least keep them indoors. We explored the streets, and I captured photographs with my Fujifilm X100V using the Kodak Tri-X 400 Film Simulation Recipe—black and white seemed especially appropriate for the weather. Eventually we made our way inside The Mercantile for breakfast, something that everyone should experience at least once in their lives—to say that it’s good is as big of an understatement as saying the Grand Canyon is big; both are true, but neither truly describe it.
While waiting for our food, an old man wearing a cowboy hat walked in by himself. He appeared weathered and worn, but in good spirits, with a smile on his face. My wife stated in a whisper just loud enough for our children to hear, “Look, there’s a real cowboy.” A true ranchman. An iconic stature of the American west. He sat at a small table near ours.
My wife knew right away who he was. This was Chuck. Ladd’s dad. Ree’s father-in-law. When the waitress came by, my wife asked if it would be alright to say hi to him. “Oh, sure,” she answered with a wink, “he loves the attention.” So my wife stood up, walked to his table, and introduced herself.
Chuck grinned, and he, too, stood up. He shook my wife’s hand, then he shook mine. He noticed my little girl’s cowboy boots, and made a comment to her about how nice they were and that he liked them. The waitress asked if she could take our picture, so with my wife’s phone she snapped one with Chuck, myself and my wife standing together. It was all very quick. Then we sat back down. Our food came, and we ate. His food came, and he ate alone, although other people also recognized him and he would pause to shake their hands and maybe take a picture. Chuck was a celebrity of sorts.
Our encounter was brief, but memorable. His kindness was obvious. His cheerfulness contagious. We met a genuine cowboy in rural Oklahoma. Just now I showed my daughter the picture I captured of Chuck Drummond (at the top of this article), and asked if she remembered him. “Oh, yeah,” she stated without hesitation, “that man said he liked my boots.” We’ll forever remember this chance encounter on a rainy day in May.
I’d yet to share any of these pictures, which were all captured on that drizzly morning in Pawhuska. I hope that you enjoy them!
Open All Year – Pawhuska, OK – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Tri-X 400”
Houses, Reflected – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Monochrome Red”
Back when I shot black-and-white film, I usually used a color filter to manipulate the shades of grey, and for landscape photography the Red filter was my most-used option. You cannot use these filters on your Fujifilm camera, but Fujifilm does provide you with three faux filters: +Y, +R, & +G. These mimic the aesthetic of using a Yellow, Red, or Green filter (sort of). In my opinion, +R doesn’t actually replicate the use of a Red filter very well; it’s more like an Orange filter. This recipe is intended to produce a look more similar to a Red filter on black-and-white film, which means that it will darken blues and lighten reds.
I actually created this “Monochrome Red” Film Simulation Recipe several months back on my Fujifilm X-T1, but that camera has a dirty sensor in need of a cleaning, so I never shared the results. Then I moved, and the X-T1 got packed away for awhile. Just recently I purchased a different X-Trans II camera—an X70—so I plugged this recipe into it and began shooting. This is an excellent option if you are looking for a black-and-white recipe, and is especially good for landscape photography.
Sunlit Flowers – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Monochrome Red”
The “Monochrome Red” recipe is compatible with all X-Trans II cameras. If you have an X-Trans I or Bayer model, the results will be ever slightly different, but very similar, and you can definitely use it—if you have an X-Pro1 or X-T200 or anything like that, feel free to give this recipe a try.
Monochrome+R Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 (Medium-Soft) Shadow: +2 (Hard) Sharpness: +1 (Medium-Hard) Noise Reduction: -2 (Low) White Balance: Fluorescent 1, -4 Red & +7 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured on my Fujifilm X70 using this “Monochrome Red” Film Simulation Recipe:
Josh Intently Gaming – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Jonathan with a Smile – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Backlit Jo – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Boy Fishing – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Dock Abstract – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Lock & Chain – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Pole & Chain – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Fishing Pole on Dock – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Young Boy Fishing – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
Lakeside Tree – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X70
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I recently visited a vista in Arizona that overlooks The Valley of the Sun, which is the nickname given to the Phoenix metropolitan area (beginning back in the 1930’s); the official name is The Salt River Valley. I brought along my Fujifilm X-H1, plus my Fujinon 90mm f/2, Vivitar 135mm f/2.8, and Fujinon 100-400mm lenses. Programmed into the X-H1 was my Acros Push Process Film Simulation Recipe. I thought it would be interesting to use these longer lenses to capture the views of the vast valley, plus the desert bluff behind me—never forget to check behind you when photographing, because it can be easy to miss something great when you’re not focused on it.
When I was a kid, my friends and I often played “catch” with a football. Sometimes whoever the quarterback was would shout, “Go long!” You’d run as fast as you could for a good distance, turn around to see the ball wizzing through the air—maybe you’d catch it and it would be amazing, maybe you ran too far or not far enough and the ball hit the ground.
Let’s see what happens when you “go long” with your lenses.
Empty Lumber Yard – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
The first stop on the epic road trip that I’m currently on was Panguitch, a small town in southern Utah. Panguitch is close to Bryce Canyon National Park, not too far from Zion National Park, and within reach of Capital Reef National Park. Tourism is the main reason Panguitch is even on the map. People eat, sleep, and get gas here, while visiting the various natural wonders of the region. That’s why we were there.
I only stayed one night in Panguitch, but I was able to get out with my camera and photograph the quaint town. It’s obvious that Panguitch has seen better days—it seems to be just hanging on. The town has a lot of character, though. It was a great location for photography—if I had a few weeks, it would make for an incredible photo project—but alas I only had one night, as we left early the next morning.
For the pictures in this article I used my Fujifilm X100V loaded with the Kodak TRi-X 400 Film Simulation Recipe. I also had a 5% CineBloom filter attached to the camera. The X100V is such the perfect travel tool (and my “desert island” camera), and I always make sure that I have it with me. I love black-and-white photography, and the Kodak Tri-X 400 recipe is my favorite. The camera and recipe combo were ideal for Panguitch, and I’m quite happy with this set of pictures; however, I realize that I need to go back. This town (and so many others) are yearning for the camera’s attention. There is so much photographic potential, and I barely scratched the surface.
Thanks For Shopping Local – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Auto Entrance – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Chairs Along A Fence – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Fake News – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Folding Chairs – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Window Canopy – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Souvenir & Gift – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Delicious Dinner – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Raya – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Condiments – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
The Duke – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Henrie’s – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Old Sign – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
House Roof – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
One Way Garage – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Motel – Panguitch, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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Please make a black-and-white-only camera. I’m writing this because I want one, but—more importantly—it has become quite obvious to me that many Fujifilm photographers want one, too.
How do I know this? A few days ago I published a Creative Collective article entitled Introducing the Fujifilm X100V Acros Edition, and the response that I’ve received has been overwhelming (in a good way). If Fujifilm made a monochrome model (which I propose is called “Acros Edition”), people would buy it. I have zero doubts about this. I’d buy one. A number of Fuji X Weekly readers would buy one. I’m not suggesting that it would do as well as the X-T3, but it would get a lot of attention. People would talk about it. There is a real interest and demand for a black-and-white-only Fujifilm camera.
I know that it’s not as simple as just removing the X-Trans color array from the filter and—presto!—a B&W-only camera. It’s far, far more complicated than that. Because of this, it’s understood that the camera will cost more than the X-Trans version. I personally think that the X100V or X-Pro3 would be the best base for an “Acros Edition” model, but the X-E4 could also work if you want to reduce the cost of the camera. Even if it was in an X-T3 or X-T30 body, I’d definitely still buy one—just don’t put it into a body with a PASM dial and I’ll be happy.
There needs to be some schtick, too, because people will say, “I’ll just use the Acros film simulation, and it’s basically the same thing, yet I can still get color pictures if I want.” There are advantages to monochrome-only, and while it might seem that making such a camera would be enough on its own, it isn’t—there has to be at least one more trick that makes the camera unique, in my opinion. Something that not only further separates it from other Fujifilm models, but other monochrome-only models. What exactly? I have a few ideas. Perhaps a new film simulation: Neopan (based on Neopan 400 Pro, Neopan 1600 Pro, or Neopan 400CN)—the “Acros Edition” camera would have Acros, Neopan, Monochrome, and Sepia (I suppose) as the four film simulation options. I think it would also be cool if there were push and pull process options for these simulations, where the pictures become more or less contrasty and grainy (much like push and pull processing film), depending on the settings selected. Another idea is to have a removable IR filter like Sigma did with their SD Quattro cameras, allowing photographers to easily use their cameras for full-spectrum B&W photography whenever they want. How about built-in colored filters? Since there would be no +Y, +R, & +G faux filters, it would be interesting to have real color filters built into the camera, sort of like the ND filter on the X100V. Adding some sort of extra uniqueness would give the camera even more buzz and would make it even more desirable.
My only point here is that I know for certain that there is an interest in a black-and-white-only camera made by Fujifilm. So, if there’s anyone at Fujifilm who happens to read this, please pass it up the chain that such a demand exists. People would pay a premium for a monochrome model. I personally would.
Sincerely, Ritchie Roesch Fuji X Weekly
Now it’s your turn! Would you be interested in an “Acros Edition” Fujifilm camera? Which body would you want it in? What special feature should it have? Leave a comment! I don’t know if Fujifilm will ever read it, but they might, so it’s worth a try!
I’ve said for awhile now that Fujifilm should make a black-and-white only camera. There’s actually an advantage to a monochrome sensor. With a typical Bayer color array, only 50% of the light-sensitive sensor elements are recording luminosity information, while the other 50% are recording color information. With an X-Trans sensor, 55% of the light-sensitive sensor elements are recording luminosity information while 45% are recording color information. With a monochrome sensor, 100% of the light-sensitive sensor elements are recording luminosity information. Because of this, you get a higher perceived resolution, as pictures will appear more richly detailed, and there’s more shadow latitude, which also improves high-ISO capabilities. You can also use color filters like with black-and-white film.
Fujifilm has said that they have no plans currently to make a monochrome camera. You can actually convert any Fujifilm camera to be black-and-white only, but it is expensive and extreme. I’ve wanted a monochrome-only Fujifilm camera for awhile, but I’m not willing to convert one, and I’m impatient waiting for an official model to come out. So what did I do? I made my own.
Introducing the Fujifilm X100V Acros Edition!
Note: this was a Creative Collective article, but now it’s available to everyone.
Of course I didn’t actually make a black-and-white only camera. My X100V-Acros is just an X100V, and is capable of capturing color images. There’s nothing unique about it, other than it now says “Acros” underneath Fujifilm X100V on the top. What makes this camera an “Acros Edition” (other than the additional word) is that the C1-C7 Custom Presets programmed into it are all black-and-white Film Simulation Recipes.
The idea for this wasn’t mine. A Fuji X Weekly reader actually used just one recipe—a black-and-white recipe—on his Fujifilm camera for a whole year. Another reader was seriously considering doing the monochrome conversion to his X-Trans II camera, but then he realized that the resolution increase was going to be similar to his X-Trans IV camera, so instead of going through with the conversion he decided to dedicate his X-Trans IV camera to black-and-white recipes. I simply copied his idea.
Let’s talk about that resolution bump of monochrome-only cameras. Because you’re able to tap into the full-resolution potential of the sensor, you get a more detail-rich image. A converted 16mp X-Trans I or II sensor would be equivalent to a 23mp Bayer camera, a 24mp X-Trans III sensor would be equivalent to 35mp, and a 26mp X-Trans IV sensor would be equivalent to 37.5mp, roughly speaking. But, of course, it would also require a lens capable of resolving that much resolution, which many (but not all) Fujinon lenses can. Also, as I pointed out in my Fujifilm X vs GFX article, such a resolution increase only really matters if you print large or crop deep, and otherwise isn’t a big deal at all. In other words, the 26mp sensor in the X100V is already a lot of resolution, so it doesn’t matter that the camera isn’t actually monochrome-only. I can simply pretend, and be happy with that.
Yesterday I took my Fujifilm X100V Acros Edition out for the first time. I went to Antelope Island State Park, and also stopped at a local park along the way. The purpose of this outing was to try out all seven of these recipes. Below are the pictures!
Blooms Among Pine – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Kodak Tri-X 400”
Two Tree Trunks – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “B&W Infrared”
Unneeded Boat Cleat – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Moody Monochrome”
Please Stay Out – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Moody Monochrome”
Dry Dock – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Moody Monochrome”
Deserted Dock – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Ilford HP5 Plus 400”
Boaters Beware!! – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Ilford HP5 Plus 400”
Drought – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Ilford HP5 Plus 400”
Sage & Sand – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Ilford HP5 Plus 400”
Layers of Grey – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Moody Monochrome”
Rocks Reflected – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Monochrome Negative”
Bush in the Rocks – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Monochrome Negative”
Brush & Lakeshore – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “Monochrome Negative”
Crushed Brush – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “B&W Superia”
Francis Peak and Brush – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “B&W Superia”
Buffalo Peek – Antelope Island SP, UT – Fujifilm X100V-Acros – “B&W Superia”
I love black-and-white photography, probably because I first learned photography on black-and-white film. If you love it, too, I invite you to try using only black-and-white recipes on your Fujifilm camera—make your own “Acros Edition” of whatever camera you have. I like the idea of a Fujifilm monochrome camera, so I think it was inevitable that I decided to do this—I now wonder why it took so long. Once I have my seven recipes nailed down, the next project will be to capture 24 or 36 exposures with each before changing recipes, kind of mimicking that limitation of film.
Of the different faux filter options for Acros, +Y is the one I use the least. I think it goes back to my film days when I used color filters with B&W film. I would select Orange or Red before Yellow, because Yellow is fairly subtle, but the advantage of the Yellow filter is that it doesn’t block as much light. Of course, the faux filters on Fujifilm cameras don’t affect the exposure like real filters with film. Anyway, recognizing that I infrequently use Acros+Y, I set out to make a Film Simulation Recipe that uses +Y and produces an aesthetic that I like. I think it is important to challenge myself sometimes, so if there’s some setting or gear or option that I don’t use often, forcing myself to use it helps me to grow as a photographer. That’s why I made this recipe.
I wanted something with an overall darker curve, so that it would produce a moody look. Maybe deep blacks reminiscent of Tri-X, and maybe a push-process feel. I didn’t have any specific film in mind, but I’m reminded of this time that I push-processed a roll of Ilford Delta 400, but inadvertently got it wrong—I underexposed two stops, and only had the lab push it by one stop, so the pictures were largely underexposed, and they were darker and moodier (yet less contrasty and grainy) than I had intended. This isn’t exactly the same as that, but not too dissimilar, either, so that’s why I call this recipe Moody Monochrome.
Early Blossoms – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Moody Monochrome”
Because this film simulation recipe uses Clarity, it is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. If you have an X-T3 or X-T30 or X-Trans III camera, ignore Clarity and Grain size, and use a diffusion filter, like a 10% CineBloom or 1/4 Black Pro Mist, to get similar results.
Acros+Y Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Fluorescent 3, -4 Red & -9 Blue ISO: 3200 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Moody Monochrome” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Stop West – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Watch For Falling Bikes – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Sun Beams – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Tower in the Middle of Nowhere – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Path Through The Grass – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Wetland Boardwalk – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Wetland Grass – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Creek in the Trees – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Creek, Stick & Vines – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Log Above The Water – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Grey Brush – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Cat on a Log – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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Old Tractor 15 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Analog Monochrome”
This film simulation recipe began as an attempt to fulfill a need. You see, there are many Fujifilm cameras (like the X-H1) that are not capable of saving the White Balance Shift within Custom Presets, but there’s a solution: if each Custom Preset uses a different White Balance type, the camera will remember one White Balance Shift per type, and you won’t have to remember to adjust the shift when switching presets. This makes the camera experience more enjoyable.
The problem is that most film simulation recipes use the Auto, Daylight, or Kelvin White Balance types, and you have seven Custom Preset slots. The remaining White Balance types have a limited number of choices. Prior to this recipe, Incandescent had only one option: Eterna Bleach Bypass. Now, if you are using this solution, you can choose either this Analog Monochrome recipe or the Eterna Bleach Bypass recipe—one color and one B&W—for one of your C1-C7 slots.
Doll – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Analog Monochrome”
I didn’t model this Analog Monochrome recipe after any specific film. Instead, I simply set out to create some settings that look good. This recipe has nice contrast with deep blacks, and whites that are bright yet don’t easily clip. I set Grain to Weak for a clean look, but feel free to try Strong for a grittier look. I feel that it has a very nice classic B&W film aesthetic that some of you will really appreciate.
Acros+G Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -1 Grain Effect: Weak White Balance: Incandescent, -8 Red & -8 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Analog Monochrome” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-H1:
Minolta SRT303b – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Car Console – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Jon Smiling for the Camera – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Joy Laughing at a Funny Message – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Horse Close Up – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
You Shall Not Pass – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Jesus Loves You! – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Friendly Neighborhood Snowman – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Winter Walking Path – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Farmington Creek in Winter – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Three Ducks in the Creek – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Snow and Creek – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Winter Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Stump In Snow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Wild Grass in Snow – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
Melting Snow In The Tall Grass – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-H1
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And hard work it was! Anders sent me a lengthy note on his process to create this recipe, and I want to share with you a short snippet just so you get an idea of the effort put into this. “I checked the spectrum sensitivity chart and looked for any significant bumps in the wavelengths,” he wrote. “For the largest bump, I checked what color it represents to try to match it as close as possible with the white balance shift. This recreated the bump in the recipe to make the simulation a bit extra sensitive to that specific color.” This was point four of seven in his process, and shows the kind of effort that can go into creating film simulation recipes.
Ilford Pan F 50 Plus is a low-ISO, contrasty, sharp, detailed, fine-grain, black-and-white negative film. It has the punchiness of a mid-ISO film, but is very clean, and can be printed large and still appear crisp and fine-detailed. Of course, how a film is exposed, developed, scanned and/or printed will affect the exact aesthetic. Ilford Pan F 50 Plus is one of the best black-and-white films you can buy today, and this recipe is a pretty darn good facsimile of it.
Sugar House Traffic District – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Ilford Pan F Plus 50”
“This one needs some care,” Anders wrote of this recipe, “and really soft light is recommended for portraits, but the reward is wonderful! If you’re looking for drama, this is it. Great in studio where lighting can be controlled, but can sometimes also work nicely for certain kinds of street photography. High contrast with a really classic black and white look, emphasis on the black.”
I modified Anders recipe a little. His version calls for Shadows to be +2 and Clarity set to 0, but he says that +2 Shadow can sometimes be too strong, and that +1 is not always strong enough, but +1.5 (for those cameras that are capable) is probably just right. I wanted to use this recipe on my Fujifilm X100V, which isn’t capable of .5 Shadow adjustments, so I set Shadow to +1 and Clarity to +2 (to increase the contrast, similar to what +1.5 Shadow might be)… alternatively, Shadow +2 and Clarity -2 is an option, too, but I didn’t like it quite as much. Because of Clarity, I decreased Sharpening to 0 from +1 (what the original recipe calls for). Instead of -3, I set Noise Reduction to -4, which is my preference. If you want to use Anders full recipe, set Shadow to +2 (or +1.5 if your camera is capable), Clarity to 0, Sharpness to +1, and Noise Reduction to -3. Otherwise, you’ll find my slightly modified version below. This recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 and X-T30 II cameras.
Monochrome Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: 0 Shadow: +1 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: 0 Clarity: +2 Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +1 Red & -6 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 (for best results, try to limit the ISO to 1600 and lower when able) Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Ilford Pan F Plus 50” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Item Number – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Snow on Seat – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Wheelchair Shopping – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Face Masks For Everyone – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V