LoFi Pancake For Digital Lomo Photography

Fujifilm X-E4 with Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 Body Cap Lens

With film photography, there are more-or-less two groups: those who used rangefinders, SLRs, TLRs, etc., and those who used cheap point-and-shoots and disposable cameras. Generally speaking, pros and hobbyists used SLRs, while novices who didn’t have much interest in photography primary used point-and-shoots (my parents’ and grandparents’ photo albums are full of these pictures). Of course, there are always exceptions, such as the novice who insisted on using their SLR despite not understanding how it worked, or the artist who used cheap gear for artistic effect.

As you probably know, I like to create approximations of classic analog looks on Fujifilm cameras with Film Simulation Recipes. Much of the time, the facsimile aesthetic is based on film shot on SLRs, etc., but occasionally I like to replicate the look of cheaper gear, such as disposable cameras, Holga, pinhole, 126, light leaks, etc.. I do crazy things occasionally—like when I distressed a camera or when I used tiny lenses—so I’m not afraid to try something that’s a bit unconventional. In the case of this article, it’s the Xuan Focus Free 30mm f/10 Body Cap Lens.

Rain, Not Rhein – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color

What is the Xuan Focus Free 30mm f/10 Body Cap Lens, you ask? Well, someone took a cheap third-party Fujifilm body cap, drilled a hole in it, and attached (via glue) a recycled 30mm f/10 lens from a Kodak Funsaver disposable camera. They’re selling them for $26 each. You can actually do this yourself without too much trouble, but for such a cheap price (and with free next-day delivery), it made sense to go the easy route.

The reason why it’s called a “focus free” lens is because it’s pre-focused, and you cannot adjust it (nor can the aperture be changed). I don’t think the distance from the lens to the sensor on my Fujifilm X-E4 is exactly the same as the lens to the film on a disposable camera, so the focus point is slightly different. Xuan claims that from roughly 5′ to infinity is in focus, but that’s not my experience. I believe the focus point is set to about 11′, and the depth-of-field is more like 6.5′ to 37′, and 8′ to 15′ seems to be the sharpest zone.

Bougainvillea Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”

If you want to shoot with a pancake lens on your Fujifilm X camera, your options are limited. You have options—some excellent options, in fact—but only a handful in total. The Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 Body Cap Lens is another pancake choice, but is it good? Is it even worth $26? I used this lens recently on my X-E4, attempting to capture beautiful LoFi pictures—more resembling those found in picture albums, and less like those printing in magazines and hanging on gallery walls. How was my experience? What do I think of the Xuan 30mm lens? Read on to find out!

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Xuan 30mm Amazon

Note: This was originally a Creative Collective article that required a subscription, but now it is available to everyone.

Fujifilm X-E4 with Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 Body Cap Lens

The Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 Body Cap Lens is surprisingly good and unsurprisingly terrible at the same time. The center is sharper than I anticipated—a little soft, yes, but not any less than many kit zooms or even the Nikkor 28mm pancake. The lens is noticeably softer as you move towards the corners, and is especially soft in the corners and along the edges, none of which is surprising. I think if the subject is in the middle of the frame and anywhere from 8′ to 15′ from the camera is where you’ll achieve the sharpest results. There’s vignetting in the corners, which is sometimes obvious and sometimes not. The 35mm-equivalent focal-length is 45mm, making it a “standard” lens on Fujifilm X cameras.

Bokeh is the quality of the out-of-focus area of an image. The depth-of-field of the Xuan 30mm is pretty large, and where you’ll find it out-of-focus are close foreground objects and distant background objects. Bokeh is not especially great, but it’s not typically a distraction, either, so I don’t think it even matters. I had a hard time achieving lens flare, but when I did I thought it was interesting. I did notice some chromatic aberrations, but nothing terrible.

Because of the fixed f/10 aperture, the lens isn’t a good option for low-light or indoor situations, unless you use a flash with it—something that I didn’t do, but that’s how the disposable camera that the optics came from worked. Or use a tripod (I didn’t do that, either).

Wet Sidewalk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”

I used the Nostalgia Color Film Simulation Recipe with this lens because it resembles to some extent the analog aesthetic of pictures captured with point-and-shoot or disposable cameras. I think Fujicolor Superia 800, Fujicolor Superia 1600, Fujicolor Natura 1600, Scanned Superia, Nostalgic Print, Kodak Gold 200, or Kodacolor could all be good options—and I’m sure there are many others, too.

What I enjoy about the Xuan 30mm is that it is literally point-and-shoot. No focusing. No adjusting the aperture. I set both Shutter and ISO to Auto, and walk around snapping pictures whenever I think there might be an interesting image. In a way, it’s similar to using Snap Focus on Ricoh GR cameras. As Rob Morgan put it, “See a moment, grab the camera, snap the shutter, put it down, and get back to rocking out.” Well, maybe “rocking out” won’t apply to you, but you get the idea. The only real consideration is where the subject is, because there’s a somewhat narrow window where the subject is sharp, and is otherwise soft, and can sometimes be almost painterly or impressionist, which could be good or bad.

I’ve had a lot of fun with the Xuan 30mm lens, and very quickly got my $26 worth out of it! It’s not something I’d want to use all of the time—only when I’m in the “right” nostalgic mood. I think it would be interesting for a project, such as using one camera, this one lens, and one Film Simulation Recipe to photograph a singular subject over a period of time. Maybe I’ll do that, but I’m not sure what the subject should be.

Example pictures:

Trumpets & Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Wicker Chair Through Window – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Triangle & Stones – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Window Rain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Dark Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Sunlight & Tree Branches – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Tree, Clouds & Blue Sky – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Two Dark Trees – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Backyard Playing – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Not Another Picture, Dad – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Teeter Totter – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Puddle Field – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”
Abstract Sky – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Xuan 30mm – “Nostalgia Color”

The Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 Body Cap Lens is a super-cheap LoFi pancake option that produces soft Lomo-like pictures reminiscent of images captured with disposable cameras. It’s not something to use all of the time, but for only $26 it doesn’t need to be. I’ve had a lot of fun with it, and I plan to use it even more, perhaps for a personal project of some sort.

Creative Collective 014: Using a Fujifilm X100V as a Disposable Film Camera

Well, this is going to sound crazy, but I turned my Fujifilm X100V into a disposable film camera. No, I didn’t disassemble my digital camera, rip out the sensor, and adapt a film spool. Instead, I configured my X100V to capture pictures that appear as though they were captured with a cheap throwaway film camera. Why? I’ve done crazier things before, including distressing a camera, so it shouldn’t be too shocking that I’d do this—perhaps it was just a matter of time.

The inspiration for this project has been building for awhile. I have a picture displayed on my dresser that’s over 20 years old—it’s my wife and I, captured sometime shortly after we got married. A friend took the picture with a disposable camera. I can tell that it was a Fujifilm QuickSnap camera by the color palette, which is clearly Fujicolor. The picture is special to me because it’s a very personal (and happy) moment that’s been frozen in time through photography. It’s nothing more than a snapshot captured on a cheap camera, and would be completely meaningless to almost anyone else. I have a box full of these type of pictures, mostly 4″ x 6″ prints. You might have a box like this, too—snapshots that are meaningful to you.

Bread Truck – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

Fujifilm developed the QuickSnap camera, a “one-time-use” 35mm film camera, in the mid-1980’s (Kodak released its version, called FunSaver, a couple years later), and it was an instant hit. These “disposable” cameras were extremely popular in the 1990’s and 2000’s. They came preloaded with 27 frames (a 24-exposure roll of film, but you got three extra shots), and were point-and-shoot. You’d push the shutter-release and advance the film, but otherwise there typically weren’t any other controls, so anyone could use these cameras—no skill required. Once you exposed all of the frames, you’d take the camera to the 1-hour lab, where they removed the film for development and recycled the camera. 60 minutes later you’d have a packet of 4″ x 6″ prints.

Cheap digital point-and-shoots made a dent in disposable camera sales, but it was really the cellphone camera that rendered them obsolete; however, you might be surprised to learn that you can still buy disposable cameras today. Thanks to the Lomography movement and an increased interest in film photography, there’s enough of a market for these cameras to continue to exist in 2022. I briefly considered purchasing one, but instead of that, I decided to capture QuickSnap-like images on my Fujifilm X100V.

Now you know the why, so let’s get into the how.

Note: This was a Creative Collective article, but now it is available to everyone.

I started with research. I discovered that the Fujifilm QuickSnap cameras have a fixed 32mm f/10 lens with focus preset to somewhere near 6 feet. The shutter is permanently set to 1/140. Depending on the unit, the flash is either permanently on or can be powered on-and-off. The film… depends. Nowadays, Superia 400 is what you’ll find in QuickSnap cameras. Superia 800 was also commonly used in these for awhile, but it’s been discontinued for a number of years now. Superia 200 and Superia 1600 had very brief runs in disposable cameras, although they were “specialty” versions: Superia 200 for bright daylight, Superia 1600 for indoors/night. Before Superia, there was Super G Plus, Super HG, Super HR, and probably others. These cameras have no exposure control. Basically, the latitude of the film was the exposure control. Any overexposure and underexposure would be “fixed” when printing. You could overexpose Superia by three stops, arguably four, and still get a usable picture, and underexpose by a stop or maybe two.

The Fujifilm X100V has a full-frame-equivalent 34.5mm focal-length lens, which is slightly less wide-angle than QuickSnap cameras, but pretty close to the 32mm focal-length of the disposable. I figured it was close-enough for this project. I set the aperture to f/10 and the shutter to 1/160, as 1/140 wasn’t an option (I could have alternatively used 1/125). I set ISO to Auto, up to ISO 6400. The X100V doesn’t have the same exposure latitude of the film, so it was important to have some level of exposure control. In bright daylight conditions, I activated the ND filter to prevent overexposure (I programmed the ND filter to the Fn button on the top, as an On/Off switch). The Exposure Compensation Dial was set to +1/3. I manually focused to six-and-a-half feet and left it there. I set the flash to be be On (TTL +1/3), and let it fire on every exposure.

For the film simulation recipe, I went with Fujicolor Superia 800, except that I set Sharpness to -4, Grain to Strong Small, and the White Balance Shift to be -1 Red & -2 Blue. This seemed to be a pretty close match to the prints I was hoping to mimic the aesthetic of.

The X100V’s lens is too sharp and flawless to mimic a cheap one-time-use camera, so I needed some help. I used a 10% CineBloom filter to take the digital edge off of the pictures, and also a UV filter that just so happened to have a thin layer of dust on it (not sure if the dust made a difference or not, but I figured it was worth trying). I briefly considered very lightly sandpapering a UV lens, but decided against that, just because I didn’t want to ruin the filter without knowing whether it would work or not.

I wanted it to be a disposable camera experience, so, after I got the camera set, I disabled the rear screen and the electronic viewfinder, and used only the optical viewfinder. I turned off all of the display information (except for the ND filter, because I wanted to know if it was On or Off). With everything set, I went out and captured 27 exposures!

I didn’t review any of the pictures until after all 27 images were captured. I had no idea what the pictures would look like until the project was complete. The only controls I used were the shutter-release and the ND filter—it really was a point-and-shoot experience, with aperture, shutter, focus, and flash all preset.

Here are my 27 exposures captured using my X100V-as-a-disposable-camera:

Frame 01
Frame 02
Frame 03
Frame 04
Frame 05
Frame 06
Frame 07
Frame 08
Frame 09
Frame 10
Frame 11
Frame 12
Frame 13
Frame 14
Frame 15
Frame 16
Frame 17
Frame 18
Frame 19
Frame 20
Frame 21
Frame 22
Frame 23
Frame 24
Frame 25
Frame 26
Frame 27

I think some of these shots are very convincing as disposable camera images. If I had them made into 4″ x 6″ prints, I could probably trick some people into thinking I actually used a QuickSnap camera. To that end, I think this project was a success. More importantly, I had fun. I really appreciated not seeing the pictures until the end—I might use the optical viewfinder more often, and keep the rear screen off.

The biggest challenge was keeping track of the exposures. I used the notes section (under the recipe) in the Fuji X Weekly App to help remember, but that wasn’t ideal, and I ended up going over by one, thinking that it was the 27th frame when it was actually the 28th. If I do this again, I’ll have to figure out a better method.

I think you could do this technique with any camera, but the JPEG tools, built-in flash, ND filter, and optical viewfinder make the X100V particularly ideal for this. I tried a few shots on my X-T30 using a kit zoom and the Kodak Gold 200 recipe, and it seemed to do alright, but it wasn’t the same experience as the X100V. If you don’t own an X100V, I invite you to try this on whichever Fujifilm camera you do own. You might just discover something fun, and capture some meaningful moments in the process.

Digital Is Disposable

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Fujifilm X-E1 & Meike 35mm

Digital cameras are disposable.

Camera manufacturers introduce the replacement models, the next generation, about every two years on average. This isn’t always true–the X100T came out just one year after the X100S while the X-Pro2 came out four years after the X-Pro1–but, generally speaking, it’s true. Your new camera will be “last year’s model” soon enough.

It’s no surprise that photographers, on average, upgrade roughly every two years, as well. When that new model comes out, it’s very tempting to buy it. The new model is better in this way and that way–faster, more resolution, etc.–you know the song and dance. You might still keep your current camera as a “backup body” once the new one arrives in the mail, and it will mostly collect dust.

There are plenty of photographers who don’t buy new. They’ll wait awhile until they can get a good deal on a gently used camera. But it’s still the same story of “upgrading” every other year or so. They’re just a model behind what’s current.

There are some who keep their cameras for many years. There are plenty of photographers who happily use their five-year-old camera. A much smaller number happily use their ten-year-old camera. Almost nobody happily uses their fifteen-year-old camera, because the cheapest interchangeable-lens cameras today are more advanced and capable of better image quality than the best “pro” cameras of 2003. Digital technology changes quickly, and advancements have come at breakneck speed.

We’ve reached a point of diminishing returns. Digital technology is still advancing quickly and the cameras released in 2017 are better in every way to their counterparts released in 2012. But how much better do they need to be? If a camera already has more resolution than what most need, what does even more resolution do? If a camera is already quick enough for most photographers, how does a faster camera help? If a camera already has amazing high-ISO performance, do you really need a stop more? Yes, there are people who need more, but that’s a small percentage. Most photographers already had everything that they needed in cameras from years past, and all the advancements since then have just been overkill. Cameras are becoming better all the time, but they were already more than good enough before.

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Barn By The Tetons – Grand Teton NP, WY – Fujifilm X-E1

I’m not suggesting that camera manufacturers should stop pushing forward. What I am suggesting is that this habit of upgrading to the latest camera model every couple of years is unnecessary. If you want to buy a new camera, go ahead and do it, I’m not trying to stop you. But I do want to make aware to the photographic community that many very good and highly capable cameras are being disposed simply because they’re several years old. I’m telling myself this just as much as I’m telling others, because I’ve been caught up in this routine just as much as the next guy.

My first “real” camera, a Canon AE-1, was over 20-years-old when I bought it. I used it for several years, and even at 25 it was still going strong. I sold it, and that’s one of my photographic regrets, because, even though it is around 40-years-old now, I’m sure someone out there is still capturing wonderful pictures with it. I have several film cameras on my shelf that I occasionally dust off, a couple of which are over 50-years-old, that still function properly and are still capable of capturing excellent pictures.

The idea of someone using a 50-year-old digital camera for anything remotely serious is laughable, and not just because a 50-year-old digital camera doesn’t exist, but because of the poor image quality and usability of the early models. Someday, though, the cameras manufactured today will be 50-years-old, and I can see some of them, if they’re still working, being used by photographers who want that “retro digital” feel. I don’t think too many cameras made before 2010 will ever be used at age 50 or even when they’re 20-year-old. A few of the higher-end models, perhaps, but by-and-large the technology just wasn’t there yet. However, the ones being made today, and even five to eight years ago, have advanced enough that they could still be used to capture quality photographs well into the future.

The Fujifilm X-E1 is not as good as the X-E3, but it is more than good enough for creating wonderful photographs. It is five-years-old, almost six, but it is still an excellent camera. You can find them for under $300 pretty easily because people have moved on. The X-E2 replaced it, and then the X-E2S came out a couple years later, and now the X-E3 is approaching the one year mark and there’s already talk about an X-E4. In the realm of digital cameras it might as well be 50-years-old because it is three and soon-to-be four models old. It’s archaic. It’s a has-been. It’s disposable.

I recently picked up an old X-E1 because they’re so cheap. I liked the one that I used to own, and I wish that I had kept it. I sold it to help fund the purchase of my X100F, which is another camera that I love. The X-E1, or “Sexy One” as it was nicknamed back in 2012, is still an excellent little camera, and for the price that it currently goes for, why wouldn’t you want one? It’s great for travel because of its size and weight, and if it gets stolen or damaged it’s not a huge deal because it didn’t cost much. It’s not as good as the cameras made in 2018, but it’s more than good enough to capture great pictures for years to come.

Digital cameras are disposable, or, perhaps they used to be. We’re at the point now, and have been for several years, where we can hold onto our cameras longer because they’re more than capable photographic tools. The latest and greatest cameras are wonderful, but, really, the advancements are mostly overkill stacked on top of overkill. Maybe it’s time to be content with what we have, myself included. Maybe it’s time to rediscover these wonderful “vintage” digital cameras, such as the original X100, the X-Pro1 and the X-E1. There was a time not very long ago when people raved over these models and stores had a hard time keeping them in stock. Now they go for a few hundred bucks on eBay.