Fujifilm takes a little different approach to their JPEG settings than other camera makers. They use what they call Film Simulations, which are designed to mimic (to an extent) the look of actual film. Fujifilm, after all, knows a thing or two about film.
My favorite color Film Simulation on the X100F is called Classic Chrome. Fuji has not said what exact film this Film Simulation is supposed to be simulating, but a lot of people have speculated Kodachrome. Fujifilm would never call it Kodachrome since that brand is owned by their longtime rival, so they chose the Classic Chrome name instead.
Classic Chrome does look Kodak-ish, but having shot a lot of Kodachrome, I’m not convinced that it’s supposed to look just like Kodachrome. I’m actually reminded more of Kodak’s Ektachrome 100SW, but that’s not an exact match either. I believe that Fuji was going for a look similar to what was found in the pages of National Geographic before digital (think Steve McCurry), and that means not copying a specific film but leaning heavily on a late-1970’s through 1990’s generic Kodak slide film look.
And that’s exactly what Classic Chrome looks like. It can be manipulated (by adjusting the settings) to look more like Kodachrome or one of several different variants of Ektachrome, but whatever the settings are, it always comes out looking distinctly Kodak.
Haugen – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100F
I really appreciate the look and it takes me back to the days when I shot a lot of Kodak 35mm color transparency film. It’s a look that for years I’ve tried to manipulate my digital images to resemble. But now I can do it in-camera, and not rely on post-processing software.
While I have one specific custom Classic Chrome recipe programmed, I’m not afraid to deviate from it when necessary. I might adjust the highlights and shadows to increase or decrease contrast. I might change the dynamic range setting. I might adjust the white balance to something warmer or cooler. I try to look at each picture as unique and dynamically adjust whatever I need for each situation.
Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -1
Shadow: +1
Color: +2
Noise Reduction: -2
Sharpening: +2
Grain Effect: Weak
White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -1 Blue
ISO: Auto up to 12800
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 (typically)
Example photos, all camera-made JPEGs captured using my Classic Chrome Film Simulation recipe:
Let’s Roll The Moon Across The Sun – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
The Joy of Fishing – Huntsville, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Stud & Stripes – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Stargazer Lily – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Fruity Pebbles – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Yashica Rangefinder & Fujicolor – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Bowling Shoes – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X100F
No Soda Here – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Closed Drive Thru Window – South Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F
CF Trailer – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Pacific X-26 – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Bicycle Blue – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Sky Keepers – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Hair & Lips – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Lightning Strikes Antelope Island – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100F
See also: My Fujifilm X100F Acros Film Simulation Recipe
Help Fuji X Weekly
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There's a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
$5.00
This has been my go to recipe for a while now. I now I have the X100V. Wondering if you have played with any minor adjustments on this recipe with some of the new settings available.
You know, I haven’t, but I totally should! Thanks for the suggestion!
Why a classic chrome recepie when there is a classic chrome bild in on the x trans III sensor? Just wondering cause im new at this.
Keep up with the good worl. Love your community my friend.
Best reguards!
This recipe is an improvement over using the bland default settings (with everything set to 0, Off or Auto).
Can this beautiful recipe compatible to use in X-Pro 3? If not what are the changes that needs to be done please. Thanks man great work as always
Yes! There is a slight rendering difference between X-Trans III and X-Trans IV, but it’s very minor. To use it on the X-Pro3, set Color Chrome Effect and Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choose a Grain size (I recommend Small).
Seeing dose shoes… are you subscribed to the youtube channel of “Take”? @bigheadtaco rings a bell?
Hi, I’m not familiar with Take. I believe that I’ve seen a couple of videos from bigheadtaco, although I couldn’t tell you what they were about. I think he talks Fujifilm gear, right?
Yeas, they are one and the same. One perpetual subject for him to photograph are the shoes… combined with various other objects. He did that one time to demonstrate his choice of Classic Chrome 🙂 . That photo of yours reminded me of him.
Oh, ok. I’ll have to watch more of his videos. 😀
Hi Ritchie, love this recipe! But I’m having some trouble with blown out highlights going with the +2/3 EV. I guess I’m just not quite sure when to dial it back. Should I be using a histogram? Any tips would be appreciated!
The +2/3 Exposure Compensation is merely a suggested starting point and not a “rule”; each exposure should be judged individually. The Histogram is a good tool to help, and/or highlight warning (if your camera is equipped). Using DR400 (instead of DR200) is another potential solution. I hope this helps!
I used to love this recipe on my x100f, but when I try to replicate it on my x100vi I just don’t seem to get the same kind of output. The blues in particular don’t seem to come through as well – any suggestions?
It’s not going to look the same on the X100VI, with blue being one of the main reasons. Fujifilm changed how blue renders on the Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass film sims on X-Trans V (compared to X-Trans IV). It’s a subtle change, but definitely noticeable. If you set Grain size to Small, both Color Chrome Effects to Off, and Clarity to 0, that’s as close as you’re going to get, which won’t be 100% identical.