Fujifilm takes a little different approach to their JPEG settings than other camera makers. They use what they call Film Simulations, which are designed to mimic (to an extent) the look of actual film. Fujifilm, after all, knows a thing or two about film.
My favorite color Film Simulation on the X100F is called Classic Chrome. Fuji has not said what exact film this Film Simulation is supposed to be simulating, but a lot of people have speculated Kodachrome. Fujifilm would never call it Kodachrome since that brand is owned by their longtime rival, so they chose the Classic Chrome name instead.
Classic Chrome does look Kodak-ish, but having shot a lot of Kodachrome, I’m not convinced that it’s supposed to look just like Kodachrome. I’m actually reminded more of Kodak’s Ektachrome 100SW, but that’s not an exact match either. I believe that Fuji was going for a look similar to what was found in the pages of National Geographic before digital (think Steve McCurry), and that means not copying a specific film but leaning heavily on a late-1970’s through 1990’s generic Kodak slide film look.
And that’s exactly what Classic Chrome looks like. It can be manipulated (by adjusting the settings) to look more like Kodachrome or one of several different variants of Ektachrome, but whatever the settings are, it always comes out looking distinctly Kodak.
Haugen – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100F
I really appreciate the look and it takes me back to the days when I shot a lot of Kodak 35mm color transparency film. It’s a look that for years I’ve tried to manipulate my digital images to resemble. But now I can do it in-camera, and not rely on post-processing software.
While I have one specific custom Classic Chrome recipe programmed, I’m not afraid to deviate from it when necessary. I might adjust the highlights and shadows to increase or decrease contrast. I might change the dynamic range setting. I might adjust the white balance to something warmer or cooler. I try to look at each picture as unique and dynamically adjust whatever I need for each situation.
Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -1
Shadow: +1
Color: +2
Noise Reduction: -2
Sharpening: +2
Grain Effect: Weak
White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -1 Blue
ISO: Auto up to 12800
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 (typically)
Example photos, all camera-made JPEGs captured using my Classic Chrome Film Simulation recipe:
Let’s Roll The Moon Across The Sun – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
The Joy of Fishing – Huntsville, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Stud & Stripes – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Stargazer Lily – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Fruity Pebbles – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Yashica Rangefinder & Fujicolor – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Bowling Shoes – Kaysville, UT – Fujifilm X100F
No Soda Here – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Closed Drive Thru Window – South Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F
CF Trailer – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Pacific X-26 – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Bicycle Blue – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Sky Keepers – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Hair & Lips – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F
Lightning Strikes Antelope Island – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100F
See also: My Fujifilm X100F Acros Film Simulation Recipe
Is there a way to create auto white balance presets with different dominant or color deviations (blue / red)? I understand that it is not possible, but it would be good to create our simulations, or copy yours, and not have to be remembering how much red or blue you need. That and to be able to write a custom name to identify movie simulations.
thanks for your contributions
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I really wish that one could create custom white balance presets. Maybe the next generation X100 will have that feature. My workaround is simply to remember what the settings should be for my desired look, and adjust as I shoot. Not necessarily convenient, but it is good enough to get the job done. The hard part is remembering where the red and blue should be, but after a little while I have it memorized.
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I have X-M1 but i like Classic Chrome Film Simulation, can you help me setup 😀
Thank you so much!
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I’m not real familiar with the X-M1, but I assume it has Astia. Use Astia with Highlight set to +1, Shadow set to -1, Color set -2, and white balance shift set to +2 red and -1 blue. That should be pretty close.
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What made me switch from Nikon to Fuji was the awesome CC colors of the XT-1. I sold all of my Nikon gears and bought an XT2 body with some nice fuji glasses. But I really dissapointed of the colors of the XT2 which is not even close to the XT1 I experienced. I do not know why but it is clear for me that the colors of XT1 and XT2 is not the same. Have you ever experienced the same? The classic crome of the XT1 was so nice,that I immediatelly fell in love. Since I bought the XT2 I’m strugling to find something which can deliver the same results, I loved so much in the XT-1. What I realized that the XT-1 CC had more magenta color shift,but If I change the wb, let’s say set up +1 red or +2red it doesn’t bring me the same results… Thanks very much for your work! I like your page very much! Best regards from Hungary.
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They’re very similar, but each version of X-Trans produces slightly different results. I have heard some people prefer X-Trans I over X-Trans II and vice versa. I have heard some people prefer X-Trans II over X-Trans III and vice versa. I would say that X-Trans I & II and X-Trans III & IV are quite similar, with the biggest difference taking place between X-Trans II and III. My advice is if you really like the way the X-T1 produces pictures, it might be good to stick with that camera. No reason to fix what’s not broken. Sorry that the X-T2 isn’t doing it for you. Take care!
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Yes,but 16mp is slighty less what I need for landscape photography, mainly if I have to crop. That’s why I decided to get XT2…
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If you have to crop, it can be a problem. I have printed 16” x 24” from cropped files from an X-E1 that looked good, and I have printed 2’ x 3’ from an uncropped file that looked good but you could tell when viewing it closely that it was pushed to the limit for printing sizes. So a lot depends on how much you crop and how big you print.
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Thank you! What program do you use for editing Fuji raw files?
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I rely on the camera. I use camera-made JPEGs. There was a time when I used Alien Skin Exposure (just called Exposure now) to edit Fujifilm RAW files, and I briefly tried On1 and X RAW Studio, but very briefly on both.
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