I got a surprise package in the mail from Fujifilm: the brand-new X half! I will write a review of the camera in a few weeks probably—I haven’t had it nearly long enough to provide any proper insights. It’s a fun little camera, with some positive and negative aspects. We’ll talk about all of that at some point in the future. Today I want to write about how Fujifilm could implement some features of this camera into future X-series models.
Specifically, I want to discuss a few of the new Filters. Filters are not Film Simulations (although some of them are based on Provia); on all other X-series models, these are known as Advanced Filters. The X half has the usual array: Toy Camera, Miniature Effect, Pop Color, High-Key, Low-Key, Dynamic Tone, Soft Focus, and Partial Color. There are also some new ones, that apparently are borrowed from the Instax Evo line: Canvas, Retro, Vignette, Blur, Fisheye, Color Shift, Mirror, Double Exposure, Light Leak, Halation, and Expired Film. Some of these are uninteresting, and probably should have been left off the camera so that one could navigate the menu faster. But some of these are great, and should be included in future X-series models—just maybe not in the same way.
My favorite is Light Leak. With this filter, the camera puts a random faux light leak on your images. You don’t know what you’re going to get, and that serendipity can be thrilling, especially when it just really works with the image. I would love Light Leak to become a JPEG option (like Color Chrome Effect and Grain) on all X-series cameras moving forward. You should have three choices: All (where every picture gets a light leak), Random (where some pictures get it, but most don’t), or Off (for those who don’t want it at all). This would be such a fun thing for Fujifilm to add, and it seems like it wouldn’t be very difficult to do.
Film Leak Filter — Fujifilm X half
Next up is Expired Film, which has three options: Green, Red, and Neutral. This should be a new Advanced Filter on future X-series cameras. On the X half, your Grain settings get applied to the Filters (at least some of them; I haven’t tested them all yet), and not just the Film Simulations; however, on the X-series, you can’t apply Grain to the Advanced Filters. So this is actually two suggestions for Fujifilm: add Expired Film to Advanced Filters, and allow Grain to be selected for Advanced Filters.
Expired Film (Green) Filter — Fujifilm X half diptych
Third is Halation, which puts a red glow around bright highlights. This Filter should be a JPEG option that can be applied to any Film Simulation. I suggest three choices: Off, Weak, Strong. I would love to pair this effect with my CineStill 800T Recipe to more accurately mimic the film. The X half is not necessarily a great option for nighttime photography, so it’s almost a waste on this camera, but I definitely see potential for this effect on other X-series models.
Halation Filter — Fujifilm X half
I haven’t used Retro yet, but I’m sure it would be fine to join the Advanced Filter club. Vignette should probably be added as a JPEG option (like Color Chrome Effect and Grain). In my opinion, Fujifilm should graduate Pop Color to Film Simulation, and call it Fortia. In-camera diptychs are just a ton of fun, but I don’t see that coming to other cameras. The Film Camera Mode is pretty cool, and I’d like to see something similar be included in the next X-Pro or X100-series model (although maybe implemented slightly differently). The X half has plenty of unique features and functions, which is what makes it an interesting camera. In my opinion, some of these need to find their way into other models, and not remain solely on the X half.
There’s a feature on most Fujifilm cameras that few use—you might not even be aware that they exist—called Advanced Filters. Fujifilm introduced it in 2013 with the X100S and X20 models. With the exception of a few early models, your Fujifilm camera has Advanced Filters—find it on the Drive Dial or Drive Menu (depending on the specifics of your model). For older models, Advanced Filters are JPEG only; however, on newer models, you can save a RAW file in addition to the JPEG.
So why are the Advanced Filters so obscure and not widely used? Worse, why is it actually detested by some who have tried it? Well, the short answer is that Advanced Filters aren’t “advanced” at all, and are probably the most gimmicky and sometimes cringy thing Fujifilm has included in what are otherwise sophisticated cameras. My personal opinion is that some of the Advanced Filters aren’t half bad, and some are indeed bad and definitely out-of-date; none are especially good (although a couple have potential). Below I’ll briefly explain what each one of the Advanced Filters do. Also, this will serve as an open letter to Fujifilm, with suggestions on how to improve this feature for future cameras.
Here we go!
Toy Camera
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Toy Camera
Fujifilm describes this Advanced Filter as “a retro toy camera effect”, which is to say that it is roughly modeled after a Holga or Diana film camera aesthetic. The Toy Camera Advanced Filter is ok, but the big issue—and this is a problem with all the filters—is that it cannot be customized. You get what you get, and what you get is mediocre. I have used Toy Camera several times over the years because I like the idea, but I’m always a bit disappointed in the execution.
Fujifilm could make the Toy Camera filter much better by allowing it to be customizable. First, you should be able to choose any film simulation to use with it. Second, the vignetting should be adjustable, such as Weak or Strong, with the current amount being the Strong option. You should be able to add Grain (Weak or Strong, and Small or Large). Soft Focus—which we’ll talk more about in a moment—should be merged into Toy Camera, with the options of Off, Weak or Strong (Strong being the current Soft Focus, and Off being default). You should be able to adjust the contrast: Low, Standard, and High. Finally, Fujifilm should allow you to use any White Balance that you’d like, so that you can control the tint.
Miniature
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Miniature
This filter adds blur to the top and bottom of the frame, similar to using a tilt-shift lens. When you are photographing from an elevated vantage point, this Advanced Filter can give the illusion that the subject is a miniature model. It’s better to use an actual tilt-shift lens to get this effect, but if you don’t own one, this is an easy way to approximate it.
The Miniature filter, along with many of the others, are modeled after photography trends that were popular 15 years ago. By the time Fujifilm introduced Advanced Filters in 2013, these trends were already on their way out. Now, eleven years later, they’re very dated. While I don’t have any issues with Miniature being included, I also don’t think anyone would mind of Fujifilm axed it, or replaced it with something different entirely. How about a filter that gives an Aerochorme-like infrared aesthetic?
Pop Color
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Pop Color
Pop Color is my favorite Advanced Filter; however, it suffers from the same problem that they all do—it cannot be customized. The solution for Fujifilm is quite simple, actually: make Pop Color the next film simulation. Obviously it wouldn’t be called Pop Color; instead, Fujifilm should call it Fortia, as it resembles Fujichrome Fortia 50 film. Perhaps they’ll need to fine-tune some aspects of it in some way in order to make it a film simulation—whatever it is that they need to do, I believe that Pop Color absolutely should graduate from Advanced Filters into the film simulation list as Fortia.
High Key / Low Key
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – High Key
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Low Key
There’s nothing especially special about the High Key and Low Key Advanced Filters—both can be easily replicated using the Provia film simulation. You might occasionally use these two in lieu of having a Film Simulation Recipe programmed into C1-C7 with a similar look, but I don’t believe many people are doing that. Instead, you could use Recipes like Bright Kodak or Low Key for better results.
Fujifilm should replace these two Advanced Filters with something else entirely. How about a split-tone effect? Select any of the film simulations, have three-to-five different split-tone options (highlight and shadow with a different tints), plus have grain and contrast options for further customization.
Dynamic Tone
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Dynamic Tone
“Dynamic tone expression is used for a fantasy effect,” is how Fujifilm describes it. What it reminds me of is HDR photography with aggressive tonemapping, which was all the rage 15 years ago despite being hideous. This is one that Fujifilm should definitely axe, in my opinion. They could replace it with something like a high-contrast effect, where you can choose any film sim, but where the contrast is stronger than Highlight and Shadow set to +4 (Dynamic Range, White Balance and Grain should be customizable).
Soft Focus
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Soft Focus
This is kind of like setting Clarity to -20 and Sharpness to -10 on your Fujifilm camera. Obviously that’s not possible, but it it were, Soft Focus is what it would look like. Aside from being much too strong generally speaking, Soft Focus should be integrated into the Toy Camera filter instead of being standalone. A better Advanced Filter might be a faded effect similar to my Film Simulation Recipes that utilize double exposures like Faded Color, Vintage Color Fade, Bleach Bypass, and Faded Monochrome.
Partial Color (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Purple)
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Partial Color Red
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Partial Color Green
The six Partial Color filters are the Monochrome film simulation (with everything set to factory defaults), but with one color recorded (either red, orange, yellow, green, blue, or purple—the singular color is the Provia film simulation). This is another effect that was popular 15 years ago, and I’m sure very few utilize it in 2024. If Fujifilm wants to keep Partial Color, they should allow it to be customized similar to how I described for the other effects; however, I doubt that many would miss it if Fujifilm got rid of it entirely. I think a cross-process filter would be much more interesting—perhaps like cross-processed Velvia, with deep contrast, vibrant colors, pronounced grain, and shifted hues. Something along the lines of the picture below, which is actual cross-processed Velvia 50 film.
To conclude, your Fujifilm camera has something called Advanced Filters that are rather mediocre at best and cringeworthy at worst. Pop Color is my personal favorite—it’s the closest your camera can get to straight-out-of-camera Fujichrome Fortia 50—and it should be made into a film simulation so that it can be customized with Grain, Color Chrome Effects, Highlight, Shadow, etc., etc.. Most of the Advanced Filters should be replaced with something else entirely, and I think I offered a number of good suggestions for that (for those keeping score, that’s Aerochrome, Split-Tone, High Contrast, Faded, and Cross Process, plus an improved Toy Camera). If you find yourself bored one day, perhaps try out some of the Advanced Filters for yourself—Pop Color is my recommendation if you’re only going to try one; otherwise, just know that you’re not missing out on much. If you are Fujifilm reading this, I would suggest working right away on new-and-improved Advanced Filters for the next generation of Fujifilm cameras.
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Golden Palms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
I pretty much know Fujifilm cameras backwards and forwards. I’ve got to admit, though, that there are a few features that I never—or almost never—use. I recently rediscovered two of these tools that I tried once, didn’t like the results, and so I never used them again… until now. I didn’t realize that I was actually missing out on something kind of cool! I’ve had a lot of fun with these over the last few days, and I bet some of you will, too—and I also bet that you don’t use these features, and perhaps have never even tried them.
What are they? High Key and Low Key.
Note: This was a Creative Collective article, but now it’s available to everyone.
What is high key and low key? The former is purposely overexposing a frame for a bright image, and the latter is purposefully underexposing a frame for a dark image. There’s actually a High Key and Low Key mode found on your Fujifilm camera in Advanced Filters (and I believe most Fujifilm cameras have this option). I can hear you say, “But aren’t the ‘Advanced Filters’ gimmicky and there’s nothing actually ‘advanced’ about them?” Yes. This is different, though, and I’ll explain why. It’s actually interesting what the camera is doing when you use these.
First, though, let’s talk about how to find Advanced Filters. For some cameras it is found on the Drive knob on the top plate, and for other cameras it is found via the Drive button on the back of the camera. If you’re not sure where it is on your model, look for it in the user manual. It’s pretty easy to get to once you know where to look. Once you locate Advanced Filters, you’ll want to select either High Key or Low Key.
Both High Key and Low Key are JPEG options that are based on the Provia film simulation. It uses DR100 (DR-Auto is available to choose, but I could not get the camera to use DR200 even when pointed directly at the sun). Color, Highlight, Shadow, Sharpness, Noise Reduction, Clarity, etc., are all set to 0, and cannot be adjusted. Color Chrome Effect, Grain, etc., are Off and cannot be used (for those cameras with those functions). White Balance is Auto 0R & 0B and cannot be changed. On newer cameras, if you shoot RAW+JPEG, you’ll also get a RAW file, which can be reprocessed in-camera (or with X RAW Studio) if you’d like. Even though Highlight & Shadow are set to 0, you do not get the same result as setting Highlight & Shadow to 0. There’s a curve applied, but more importantly, there’s an underexposure (for Low Key) or overexposure (for High Key) automatically being applied.
So what’s going on? For Low Key, the camera is underexposing by two stops and using Highlight 0 & Shadow +1. For High Key, the camera is overexposing by two and two-thirds stops and applying -2 Highlight & -2 Shadow. You can actually replicate both of these—it took me a little bit to figure that out, but I did!
If you use Low Key, I discovered that increasing the exposure by +2/3 to +1 1/3 produces good results (because the pictures are too dark with Exposure Compensation set to 0). Low Key works well when the subject is brightly lit, especially backlit. For High Key, decreasing the exposure by -1 to -2 produces good results (because the pictures are too bright with Exposure Compensation set to 0). High Key works well in warm “golden hour” light or contrasty midday light. Both of the Low Key and High Key options are good ways to easily achieve certain aesthetics without needing to program a new Film Simulation Recipe into the C1-C7 custom presets (which is precious real estate).
If you don’t want to use the High Key and Low Key options in Advanced Filters, but want to get identical results, try this:
Low Key Provia Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: 0 Shadow: +1 Color: 0 Noise Reduction: 0 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: 0 Grain Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue ISO: Whatever you want, I did Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to -1 1/3 (typically)
High Key Provia Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: -2 Shadow: -2 Color: 0 Noise Reduction: 0 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: 0 Grain Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, 0 Red & 0 Blue ISO: Whatever you want, I did Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 2/3 (typically)
Of course, the great thing is that these can be customized (unlike High Key and Low Key in Advanced Filters, which cannot be customized). You can use DR200 or even DR400 if you want. You can select Grain or Clarity or Color Chrome Effect (for those cameras with those options). You can adjust Color, Sharpness, and Noise Reduction. You can adjust the White Balance and WB Shift. You can even change the Film Simulation if you want to. There’s a ton of potential!
Here are some sample pictures captured using High Key & Low Key on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Two Palms at Sunset – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Ducks & Boat at Sunset – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
Reaching High Cacti – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – “High Key”
The Holga is a line of cheap Chinese “toy” cameras that (mostly) use medium-format film. Introduced in 1982, this inexpensive camera was designed to be the everyday tool to capture family moments, although poor quality made it only somewhat successful commercially. It’s known for heavy vignetting, soft focus, blur, and light leaks. While the Holga is not generally considered a good option for serious photographers, it has been used as such, and some famous pictures have been captured with this humble camera. The flaws are what make the Holga special.
I own a Holga 120N, which is perhaps the most common Holga model. I don’t use it often, but I do dust it off every once in awhile, load it with 120 film, and capture 12 square frames. Holga cameras can capture square or rectangular frames, or, if you are feeling really frisky, you can load it with 35mm film. Here are a few photographs that I’ve captured with my Holga camera:
Like most of you, I’m staying home as much as possible right now due to the worldwide pandemic. For the most part, going places is out of the question, and I wouldn’t really want to even if I could. To foster my creative mind and prevent boredom, I decided to “convert” my Fujifilm X-T30 into a digital Holga camera. I set out to capture Holga-like images out-of-camera. Yes, I could do this by shooting RAW and using software, such as Exposure X5, but I didn’t want to. For me, that would be much less fun.
In “Advanced Filters” Fujifilm has included a “Toy Camera” effect. It’s designed to produce something similar to what you might get out of a Holga camera. Advanced Filters is misnamed, as it’s not well-designed for advanced users. It’s gimmicky. You can’t really change much with it, so what you see is what you get, for better or worse. I set my X-T30 to the Toy Camera effect, set the aspect ratio to 1:1 (square), and Dynamic Range (the only thing you can control) to DR400. To further the Holga effect, I attached my “worst” lens to the camera, an Industar 69, which has flaws not too dissimilar to the lens on my Holga camera. For some pictures, I used page markers to simulate light leaks.
Here are some straight-out-of-camera “Holga” pictures from my X-T30:
Next, I opened up a rarely-used app on my phone called RNI Films to apply a film preset to the pictures. I used an Agfa Scala option for black-and-white and a Kodak Portra 160 for color. Below you’ll find some pictures where I used the RNI Films app.
B&W
Color
Of course, a Holga experience wouldn’t be complete without double exposures. With a Holga camera, if you don’t advance the film (or you forget to), you can capture multiple exposures by simply opening the shutter again. Unfortunately, you cannot make double exposures on the X-T30 using the Toy Camera effect, so I used the Snapseed app on my phone to combine two exposures. Here are a few examples of using Snapseed to combine two Toy Camera images into one double exposure picture:
While this was a fun experiment, and I’m glad that I did this, the Fujifilm X-T30 isn’t an especially good or practical way of achieving an out-of-camera Holga look. Can you? Sure, to an extent. The use of a couple of apps improves the results. Even so, there are only a few of these pictures that I really like. I think next time I’ll just load a roll of film into my Holga 120N.
