Fujifilm GFX100S II – PRO Negative 160C except with D-Range Priority Auto
Someone pointed out to me that D-Range Priority Auto behaves differently on his Fujifilm X-T5 than he thought it would. I don’t use D-Range Priority Auto all that often, and it’s been awhile since I’ve done any sort of serious testing with it, so I took the opportunity to see what’s going on. I was quite surprised by what I found.
D-Range Priority (abbreviated DR-P) was a feature first found on old Fujifilm EXR models (this was before X-Trans) that utilized pixel-binning, and it worked much different than the current iteration of it. The modern version of DR-P was introduced in 2018 with the X-H1 and X-T3, and is modeled after a feature called Hypertone found on Fujifilm’s Frontier scanners. DR-P is used in lieu of the Dynamic Range (DR) settings and the Tone Curve (Highlight and Shadow).
Like the DR settings, DR-P is ISO dependent. DR-P Weak requires the same minimum ISO as DR200, and DR-P Strong requires the same minimum ISO as DR400. DR-P Auto should work the same as DR-Auto, and seemingly it does, but upon closer review it is significantly divergent. At least it is now. The way it works has evolved over time, largely unnoticed.
Fujifilm GFX100S II – PRO Negative 160C except with D-Range Priority Auto
Someone reported to me awhile back that they couldn’t get their X-T5 to choose DR-P Strong with DR-P Auto selected. With my X-Trans IV models, in DR-P Auto, the camera will almost always choose DR-P Weak, and only DR-P Strong in extreme high-contrast situations, with both bright highlights and deep shadows. The camera will do it, but not very often. I assumed that this person probably just hadn’t encountered the right situation where the camera would choose DR-P Strong. I can see now that my assumption was wrong.
Let’s backtrack a bit. D-Range Priority works a certain way on the X-H1 and X-T3/X-T30 (at least when the X-T30 was released and I tested DR-P on it back then …it might work differently today after firmware updates, I’m not certain). On those cameras, DR-P Auto will choose DR-P Weak most of the time, and DR-P Strong only in extreme situations. DR-P Weak is the same as DR200 with both Highlight and Shadow set to -1. In the set of three very identical images below, captured with a Fujifilm X-H1 this morning, one is DR-P Auto (which chose DR-P Weak), one is in-camera reprocessed as DR-P Weak, and one is in-camera reprocessed as DR200 with Highlight and Shadow both set to -1. They look exactly alike.
Now let’s fast forward a little. DR-P Auto works a little different on my Fujifilm X100V and X-E4, but not exactly as I remember it working, or as I expected it to. I’m not certain if the way it works changed after some firmware update, or if my memory of it is incorrect (it could go either way). Let’s take a look at a photograph that I captured today on my X-E4 using DR-P Auto, which chose DR-P Strong. I then reprocessed the image in-camera.
Fujifilm X-E4 as shot in DR-P Auto, which selected DR-P Strong
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR-P Strong—surprisingly, it’s not the same.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR-P Weak; it’s getting closer, but not identical.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR200 + Highlight & Shadow set to -1; it’s divergent from all of the above images.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR400 + Highlight & Shadow set to -2. This is identical to the as-shot photograph.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR200 + Highlight & Shadow set to -2. This is identical to the reprocessed DR-P Weak image.
On the X-H1, DR-P Auto is more straightforward than on the X-E4; on the X-E4, it did not behave as I expected it to. While I could get it to choose DR-P Strong, it didn’t actually create a DR-P Strong image, or even a DR-P Weak image; instead, it created an image identical to DR400 with Highlight and Shadow set to -2 (“DR-P Medium”?). DR-P Weak is the same as DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -2; however, on the X-H1, DR-P Weak is identical to DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -1. Clear as mud?
Now let’s look at the newer cameras. On X-Trans V, as well as the latest GFX, it works even differently. Check out this set of photographs:
Fujifilm GFX100S II as shot in DR-P Auto, which selected DR-P Weak
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR200 + Highlight & Shadow set to -1. It’s identical to the above photograph.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR-P Weak.
As you can see, the camera is not using DR-P Weak when in DR-P Auto. Like the X-H1, it is using DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -1; however, unlike the X-H1, DR-P Weak is not the same as DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -1. On the newer models, DR-P Auto is actually “DR-P Extra Weak” (if such a setting existed, which incidentally is the same as DR-P Weak on the X-H1). DR-P Weak is actually more like DR200 with Highlight set to -2 and Shadow set to -3 (if such a setting existed—in other words, it can’t really be replicated). Also, no matter how hard I tried, I could not get my X-T5 or GFX100S II cameras to choose DR-P Strong when in DR-P Auto; only DR-P Weak (except that the picture is “DR-P Extra Weak” instead of DR-P Weak).
Fujifilm GFX100S II shot with DR-P Strong and in-camera reprocessed to DR-P Weak
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR400 + Highlight & Shadow set to -2. This is the closest I could get the shadows, but the highlights are divergent.
So what is the practical application of this? Since we know on the newer models—X-Trans V and the latest GFX—that the picture you get using DR-P Auto is the same as DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -1, you can replace any Film Simulation Recipe that calls for those settings (such as PRO Negative 160C) with DR-P Auto. There isn’t necessarily a practical advantage to doing that, except if you accidentally overexpose the frame, you can recover it by reprocessing the file in-camera with DR-P Weak. Below is an example of that:
Fujifilm GFX100S II as shot in DR-P Auto, overexposed
Same image, simply reprocessed in-camera with DR-P Weak with no other adjustments
I’m not really sure how to conclude this other than to say that D-Range Priority Auto works differently depending on what generation of camera you have. DR-P Weak and DR-P Strong are also a little divergent. I reached out to Anders Lindborg to ask his opinion and see if he had any insights on DR-P Auto, since he’s researched this topic pretty extensively. “The answer is actually in the manual,” he told me. “It says, ‘When an option other than Off is selected, Highlight Tone, Shadow Tone, and Dynamic Range will be adjusted automatically.'” On the newest models, that means Highlight and Shadow both set to -1 and Dynamic Range set to DR200 …and nothing else, unless you reprocess as DR-P Weak. Unfortunately, if you want to shoot with DR-P Weak or DR-P Strong straight-out-of-camera, then don’t use DR-P Auto. I suppose you could look at this way: DR-P Auto is actually DR-P Weak, DR-P Weak is actually DR-P Medium, and DR-P Strong is still DR-P Strong. I hope this somehow clears things up for those confused by it.
Below are a few pictures I created in preparation for this article, using my Fujifilm GFX100S II with the PRO Negative 160C Recipe (except for DR-P Auto in lieu of the DR and Tone Curve settings).
Yellow Aspen Forest – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 160 v2 – DR-P Auto
Fujifilm introduced a feature called D-Range Priority (abbreviated DR-P) on the Fujifilm X-T3 in late-2018. Except that’s not entirely true, as the history of DR-P goes back much further than that. You see, Fujifilm EXR cameras, which were before X-Trans and utilized pixel-binning, also had something called D-Range Priority. Oh, and on their Frontier scanners, Fujifilm had something nearly identical to DR-P called Hypertone. The origins of DR-P seem to be found somewhere in the 1990’s.
My first camera that had D-Range Priority—a Fujifilm X-T30—arrived at my doorstep in early-2019, but I haven’t utilized the feature all that much, only sparingly. I get questions about it fairly regularly, particularly after I publish a Film Simulation Recipe that uses it, so I thought I’d take a moment and explain what DR-P is, plus how, when, and why to use it.
Let’s go back to Fujifilm’s Frontier scanners, which were common in photo labs in the 1990’s and 2000’s. Fujifilm modeled their film simulations—at least in part—after scans of films with corrections applied. Those scans were likely from Frontier scanners, and one of the corrections that Fujifilm recommended was Hypertone set to Auto. One limitation of digital camera sensors compared to color negative film is dynamic range. Negative film often has a larger dynamic range than digital cameras (especially in the early days of digital). Film tends to be more forgiving to overexposure (highlights), where digital tends to be more forgiving to underexposure (shadows). Hypertone was a software trick to maximize dynamic range so that it would digitally render more similarly to printed film on Fujicolor paper. D-Range Priority is a trick to achieve a dynamic range more similar to Frontier film scans that had Hypertone enabled.
Which answers the question of why to use it. D-Range Priority maximizes dynamic range, so as to keep highlights and shadows in check, but especially highlights. It’s more difficult to blow out highlights when you use DR-P. If you want to have the greatest dynamic range so as to avoid clipped highlights and blocked-up shadows, this is your best tool.
A few notes. First, like the regular Dynamic Range options (you know, DR100, DR200, DR400, and DR-Auto), D-Range Priority is ISO dependent. In this regard, DR-P Weak is like using DR200, and DR-P Strong is like using DR400. D-Range Priority is used in lieu of the Dynamic Range settings, so you cannot choose (for example) both DR200 and DR-P Weak simultaneously, only one or the other. Also, D-Range Priority disables the Tone Curve, so you cannot select a Highlight and Shadow setting. When enabled, DR-P is the Tone Curve. Interestingly, DR400 with both Highlight and Shadow set to -2 produces similar results to DR-P Weak. DR-P Auto chooses DR-P Weak almost always, and only selects DR-P Strong when there is a very bright light source, like shooting directly at the sun. D-Range Priority Strong produces a very low-contrast image, while DR-P Weak is a little less flat, but is still low-contrast.
To choose D-Range Priority, within the IQ section of the camera’s main Menu find D-Range Priority and select Auto, Strong, or Weak. Normally, D-Range Priority is set to Off. You only enable it when you want to use it. You can also choose D-Range Priority within Edit/Save Custom Presets, and have it enabled on any of your C1-C7 (or C1-C4, depending on your model) options.
To answer the when to use D-Range Priority question, it’s important to remember what DR-P does: produce a low-contrast picture that maximizes dynamic range to protect shadows and especially highlights. If you want punchy pictures, DR-P is not what you want to use (although in high contrast situations, you might still get dramatic results). If you want light pictures that might more closely resemble film scans (particularly from Frontier scanners), then DR-P is an option that you’ll want to consider.
While D-Range Priority is a fairly recent addition to X-Trans cameras—first introduced on X-Trans IV models—it turns out to have a much longer history. For years I assumed that D-Range Priority was for emergency use in extreme situations only, so I pretty much ignored it. I have since warmed up to DR-P, and I use it much more often than I used to. I still feel it’s probably not an option to utilize all of the time, but in the right situations or for a certain look, it works really well.
When I first watched the trailer for the upcoming Wes Anderson movie Asteroid City, I thought perhaps it might be possible to mimic the aesthetic on my Fujifilm X-T5; however, I quickly realized that it’s not possible straight-out-of-camera. The movie has an orange and teal look, and I’ve tried unsuccessfully for years to achieve that on Fujifilm. In order to get orange and teal, the White Balance Shift requires plus red for orange and minus red for teal; it’s not possible to do both, so you must decide which one you want: orange or teal? After a few hours of unsuccessfully trying to get the settings right, I gave up.
Then I saw your pictures on Instagram. Specifically, there were photos captured using the Bright Summer, Bright Kodak, Kodak Portra 400 Warm, and Pacific BluesFilm Simulation Recipes that had some Wes Anderson vibes to them, which convinced me to try again. I directly compared those four Recipes to Asteroid City screenshots, and decided that Bright Summer and Bright Kodak were the closest; however, none of them were quite right. So I set out to get a little closer—as close as I could—knowing that I wouldn’t be able to achieve a perfect match, but I hoped it would be similar enough that at a cursory glance it would pass for Asteroid City.
Popeyes – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Vibrant Arizona Recipe
Knowing that most of you don’t have an X-Trans V camera, I made a version for X-Trans IV models, too, since the majority of those who shoot with Recipes do so on X-Trans IV cameras. Also, I figured that some of you won’t be satisfied with the results, and are after an even closer facsimile of Asteroid City, so I have some advice for that, too, a little further down, but it does require a small amount of post-editing with Capture One.
While attempting to mimic Asteroid City, I was inspired by another Wes Anderson film: The French Dispatch, specifically, the indoor scenes of the newspaper office, so I made Film Simulation Recipes for that, too—one for X-Trans V and another for X-Trans IV. I don’t know what the light situation was exactly in those scenes, so I don’t know if it would render similarly under identical light, but it does produce convincing results in certain artificial and mixed light scenarios.
If you are after a Wes Anderson look, check out the four Film Simulation Recipes below!
Vibrant Arizona (X-Trans V)
Look that Way – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Vibrant Arizona Recipe
The Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe can be characterized as bright, colorful, and warm, yet still classic-analog-like, with some similarities to overexposed Kodak negative film. While not an exact match, I’m confident that it is as close as you’re going to get to an Asteroid City aesthetic straight-out-of-camera. The movie takes place in a fictional northern-Arizona town (although it was filmed in Spain, apparently), so that is why I’m calling it Vibrant Arizona.
An important note is that this Recipe uses D-Range Priority (a.k.a. DR-P), which takes the place of Dynamic Range and the Tone Curve (Highlight and Shadow). I don’t have a lot of Film Simulation Recipes which utilize D-Range Priority, but there are a few, including Pulled Fujicolor Superia, Scanned Superia, and Portra-Style, the last of which has some similarities to Vibrant Arizona.
This particular Recipe is for X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2s. For best results, use in sunny daylight. I shot in both the 3:2 and 16:9 aspect ratios, and preferred the latter for a more cinematic feel.
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: 4350K, +6 Red & -8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR-P Strong Color: +4 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to + 1 1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Backyard Spring – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spring or Fall? – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blue Star – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ocotillo & Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Palo Verde on Rocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rocks & Vista – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Arizona View – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Girl with a Camera – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Contemplation – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Over There – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Please Let Me Get Back to Playing – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Neil’s – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Deere in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Apartment Palm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sonoran Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
The Yellow Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
A Cactus Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Main Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Vibrant Arizona (X-Trans IV)
Red Light – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Vibrant Arizona Recipe
Because X-Trans V cameras render blue more deeply on some film simulations, the X-Trans IV version of this Recipe calls for Color Chrome FX Blue to be set to Strong instead of Weak, and is otherwise identical. This Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. For the X-T3 and X-T30, you can ignore Grain size and Color Chrome FX Blue (since your camera doesn’t have those options), and use a 1/4 Black Pro Mist or 10% CineBloom diffusion filter in lieu of Clarity; however, it will look slightly different. For newer GFX models… I’m not sure if you should use this version or the X-Trans V version, but one of the two should work well on your camera—try them both, and see which you prefer.
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 4350K, +6 Red & -8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR-P Strong Color: +4 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to + 1 1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Bird in a Palm – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Green Sign – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Two Palm Building – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Indicative? – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Spring or Autumn? – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Caged – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Bougainvillea Branch Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Pink & Yellow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Bougainvillea Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Green Meets Red – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Asteroid City Edit
Asteroid City Edit
If you aren’t satisfied with how well the Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe matches Asteroid City, there is a quick and easy Capture One edit that will make your pictures even closer to the aesthetic of the motion picture film. Simply import your straight-out-of-camera JPEGs (not the RAW!) into Capture One, find the Basic Color Editor, and make these adjustments:
Cyan Hue -30 Lightness -20
Blue Hue -20 Saturation +50
Those are the adjustments that I made to the picture above plus the five images below. You might have to stray from the above settings and modify the exact parameters, just depending on the photographs, but for these six, I followed them precisely and made no other changes. With this edit, the pictures are pretty convincing, and there’s no doubt that we’re mimicking Wes Anderson’s Asteroid City. Even though this will get you closer to the movie aesthetic, I personally prefer the unedited versions.
There was a moment while creating the above Recipes that I became particularly frustrated with the process, so I took a break, and instead worked on a different Wes Anderson look. I was inspired by the indoor scenes inside the newspaper office in the movie The French Dispatch, so I began working on a Film Simulation Recipe to mimic that aesthetic. The look is warm when shot in warm light, with somewhat muted colors and low contrast. This is a much different aesthetic than Asteroid City, but it is another Wes Anderson film that’s popular right now.
While the movie takes place in a fictional French town, it was filmed in the real town of Angouleme, which apparently (and appropriately) is known as the City of the Image. While these Recipes look quite interesting in outdoor daylight situations, they are intended for artificial and mixed indoor lighting, which is where they really shine. That’s why I’ve named the two Film Simulation Recipes below Indoor Angouleme. Although none of the movie was filmed in the 16:9 aspect ratio, I used it for these Recipes, but feel free to use whichever aspect ratio you prefer.
Indoor Angouleme (X-Trans V)
Red Chair – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Indoor Angouleme Recipe
This version of the Indoor Angouleme Film Simulation Recipe uses the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. It also utilizes the Auto Ambience Priority White Balance, which I’ve only used once before (on the Ektachrome 320T Recipe). Indoor Angouleme is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2s. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too; however, it will likely render slightly differently.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto Ambience Priority, -2 Red & -6 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: -2 Color: -1 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Indoor Angouleme Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Dessert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Nutmeg – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Iced or Hot? – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pumps – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Mmmm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tea Cup – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Artist at Work – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Making Salad – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joshua in Front of a Curtain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spectacular Suburban Sunset – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pergola Corner – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Roof Ridge – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sun Peeking Behind Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Big Bloom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
A Pink Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Indoor Angouleme (X-Trans IV)
Water, Fish, and View – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Indoor Angouleme Recipe
The Nostalgic Neg. film sim is somewhat similar to Eterna, and can sometimes be closely mimicked with it. Since X-Trans IV models don’t have Nostalgic Neg., I used Eterna instead. While this version isn’t 100% identical to the X-Trans V Recipe, it is pretty close overall, and retains the same feel.
This version of Indoor Angouleme is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. To use it on the X-T3 and X-T30, ignore Color Chrome FX Blue and Grain size (since your camera doesn’t have those options), select regular AWB (since your camera doesn’t have the Ambience option), and use a 1/4 Black Pro Mist or 10% CineBloom diffusion filter in lieu of Clarity; however, it will look slightly different.
Film Simulation: Eterna Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: Auto Ambience Priority, -1 Red & -6 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -1 Shadow: -1 Color: +4 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Indoor Angouleme Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Tabletop Succulent – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Bookshelf Plant – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Sugar & Creamer – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
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I call this recipe “Pulled Fujicolor Superia” because it is similar to Fujicolor Superia Xtra 400 film that’s been pulled one stop. Of course, how any emulsion is shot, developed, printed and/or scanned has an impact on its aesthetic, and one film can have many different looks. I didn’t set out to recreate the look of pulled Superia film, but, in fact, it does look surprisingly close to some examples I found. It’s better to be lucky than good, right? I wouldn’t say that this is 100% spot-on for pulled Superia 400 film, but it’s not far off at all.
Break – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Pulled Fujicolor Superia”
Because this recipe uses the Classic Negative film simulation, Clarity, and Color Chrome Effect Blue, it is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. I think it works best on sunny days, but I did use it with some success in overcast and indoor situations.
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: D-Range Priority Strong Color: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -2 Clarity: +2 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong White Balance: Daylight, -4 Red & -2 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Pulled Fujicolor Superia” film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Packed Parking Garage – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Dee’s – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Salt Lake Shoreland Preserve Boardwalk – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Wetland Grass & Mountains – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Grass – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Fence & Hidden Building – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Playing Pokemon – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Looking Through Binoculars – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
My Four Kids – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Jonathan at f/3.6 – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Yellow & Green Grass – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Pops of Fall – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V
A Little Splash of Autumn – Fruit Heights, UT – Fujifilm X100V
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I received an email earlier this week from Anders Lindborg with an interesting discovery he made. You might remember that Anders is the creator of the Kodak Tri-X 400 film simulation recipe, as well as the Fujicolor Pro 160NS and Fujicolor Pro 400H recipes, which are actually much more than just recipes—they’re a new way to approach using recipes on your Fujifilm camera. Needless to say, I was intrigued!
“After reading the information on Fujifilm’s subsites about how they develop their film simulations for the 999th time,” Anders wrote, “I had a small revelation. The base for the simulations are professional photos scanned with their Frontier scanner with corrections applied, so apparently that scanner plays a major role in the final look. I googled around for a bit and found a PDF version of the software manual for the Frontier SP-3000. Here are the really interesting parts: 1) The image settings in Fuji’s cameras are more or less exactly the same as those found in the image correction settings in their Frontier scanner software; 2) There is a correction called Hypertone that turns out to be exactly the same thing as the dreaded D-Range Priority (DR-P) modes; 3) A bit of further research revealed that almost all Fujifilm associated photo labs used the Frontier scanner since the early 90’s and the recommended method was fully automatic mode which included both white balancing as well as Hypertone—both on auto.”
After reading this, I dug around the internet for articles on Fujifilm’s Frontier SP-3000 scanner. I immediately recognized Fujifilm’s “color science” in the photographs I found. There was a distinct similarity between the images that I was seeing, which were scanned negatives, and the pictures from my Fujifilm X cameras. Another tidbit I found was a remark that negatives scanned using the Frontier scanner have a similar aesthetic to negatives printed on Fujicolor paper, which makes sense, because you’d want the digital images to closely match the prints. All of this is to say that, based on these discoveries, I believe Fujifilm’s JPEG programming is heavily influenced by their scanner technology, which was heavily influenced by their photographic paper. This was a surprise to me, although it shouldn’t have been because it is very logical.
The similarities between Hypertone and D-Range Priority are interesting. I’ve written a couple articles that discuss D-Range Priority (here and here), but I’ve always thought of it as a “use only in extreme circumstances” kind of feature, and not a particularly useful tool for everyday photography. But if it was commonly used by photo labs around the world (as Hypertone), maybe it should be more commonly used now (as DR-P)?
It’s one thing to theorize about these things, and a whole other thing to put it into practice, so I created two different “recipes” that utilize D-Range Priority (which I will share in future articles). I wanted to see if this feature could be left on for extended shooting and produce good results, or would the results be flat and uninteresting? Here are a few pictures captured with each recipe:
Recipe 1
Tall Grass – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Peach Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Summer Tree – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Northstar – Orem, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Arrow & Cones – Sandy, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Recipe 2
Brownie on a Shelf – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
White Rose of Summer – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Last Red Rose – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Big Grass Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Suburban Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
D-Range Priority Weak is very similar to using DR400 with Highlight and Shadow both set to -2. When you compare the highlights and shadows of pictures captured with D-Range Priority Weak and those captured with DR400 with Highlight and Shadow both set to -2, you’ll notice that they’re nearly identical. What is a little different—subtly different—are the mid-tones. Anders observed, “I noticed that DR-P, just like its predecessor Hypertone, also applies a slight mid-contrast boost.” There is an advantage to using D-Range Priority Weak over DR400 with Highlight and Shadow reduced to their lowest option, but it is subtle. Another note is that D-Range Priority Weak requires a minimum ISO of 320 while DR400 requires a minimum ISO of 640.
If you use D-Range Priority Auto, the camera will almost always select DR-P Weak, and only DR-P Strong if there is a bright light source, such as the sun, in the frame (like Big Grass Leaves above). D-Range Priority Strong produces a very flat image, and it only looks good if there is a lot of contrast in the scene. Anders noted that both Hypertone and DR-P can produce “weird” results if applied too strongly, but the camera seems to do a good job of knowing when to use which DR-P option. D-Range Priority Strong requires a minimum ISO of 640.
“You have to be really careful with the exposure compensation when using it,” Anders advised. “A bit too much or too little can quickly kill the whole photo. I tried to keep it at 0 most of the time and only use Fujis recommendations for correct exposure.” I found this to be true, too, and rarely needed to go beyond +1/3 or -1/3 exposure compensation.
D-Range Priority is only found in Fujifilm X-Trans IV cameras. Using D-Range Priority Weak or Auto seems to be an effective strategy; DR-P Strong is more useful in extreme circumstances. Those who created this feature (and the other JPEG options) were influenced by Frontier scanners, and the programmers likely intended D-Range Priority and White Balance to be set to Auto. Of course, there’s no “right” or “wrong” way to do anything, and I’m certainly not afraid of doing things outside-the-box (as you know). D-Range Priority is something that I shouldn’t have ignored so much, because it is more useful than I originally thought. I’ve created two film simulation recipes to take advantage of DR-P (and I’ll probably create more down the road), which I’ll publish very soon.
Thank you, Anders Lindborg, for making this discovery and sharing it with us!
Let me know in the comments which recipe—1 or 2—above you are most excited for.
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Since my Fujifilm X-T30 arrived last week, I have been trying out all of the different new features, and over the coming days I will be sharing with you my findings. Today I will discuss D-Range Priority. This new feature first appeared on the X-H1, then the X-T3, and now the X-T30. I’m sure it will be included in all future X-Trans cameras, such as the X-Pro3 and X100V, which might be released before the end of the year. I wasn’t sure exactly what D-Range Priority is, how it works, or how to best use it, so I was eager to try it out. And I made some interesting discoveries.
The manual doesn’t give a lot of information on what exactly D-Range Priority is, except that it reduces contrast when activated. When you select D-Range Priority, you no longer have control of the Dynamic Range (DR) setting, Highlight and Shadow. You get what you get, which is a lower-contrast image. There are three D-Range Priority options: Weak, Strong and Auto (as well as Off). I’m not sure exactly how this might effect RAW, as (thanks to Fujifilm’s excellent camera-made JPEGs) I haven’t post-processed a RAW file in over a year (with the exception of using the in-camera RAW conversion to reprocess some images). For the JPEG shooter, D-Range Priority applies a flat curve to help control blown highlights and blocked shadows in high-contrast scenes.
D-Range Priority Strong
The best way to think about D-Range Priority is an extension of the Dynamic Range settings. You have DR100, DR200, DR400, and now D-Range Priority Weak and D-Range Priority Strong. D-Range Priority Auto selects either Weak, Strong or Off, whatever the camera thinks it should be. I haven’t tried Auto, so I can’t comment on how well it does or doesn’t work. The only times that you’d want to use D-Range Priority are those rare circumstances when DR400 isn’t enough, and you need to squeeze a little more dynamic range out of the camera (again, this is for JPEGs, as you could make these same adjustments yourself from an underexposed RAW file in software).
The first D-Range Priority test that I conducted can be seen below. I captured a scene with a little bit of contrast in it and applied the two D-Range Priority options. As you can see, the DR100 version could use a little boost in the shadows, but D-Range Priority Weak is slightly too flat and D-Range Priority Strong is much too flat. This is a case where using DR200, or simply adjusting Shadow down a notch, probably would have been sufficient.
DR100
D-Range Priority Weak
D-Range Priority Strong
I did another test, this time with a higher contrast scene. This is a case where you might actually benefit from D-Range Priority. The first image shows what DR400 looks like (Pro NEG Hi, with Highlight and Shadow at 0), the second shows DR400 with Shadow and Highlight at -2, the third shows D-Range Priority Weak, and the last image shows D-Range Priority Strong. You might notice that D-Range Priority Weak has only subtly less contrast than DR400 with Shadow and Highlight set to -2. There’s a clear difference between using DR400 and D-Range Priority Strong, but you can almost achieve D-Range Priority Weak by using DR400 and setting Shadow and Highlight to -2. I can’t imagine you’ll encounter all that many situations where DR400 isn’t enough, but you might and Fujifilm has given you the option to go beyond it when you need to.
DR400
DR400 with -2 Shadow & -2 Highlight
D-Range Priority Weak
D-Range Priority Strong
I wondered what exactly the camera is doing when I select D-Range Priority. As I said, the DR setting, Shadow and Highlight are no longer adjustable when D-Range Priority has been activated. I didn’t find the answer, but I do have a theory. I believe that Fujifilm programmed a very flat tone curve that it applies to D-Range Priority images. It’s the same curve whether you use the Weak or Strong option. For D-Range Priority Weak I believe that it is applying this flat curve to a DR200 setting, and for D-Range Priority Strong it is applying the same curve to a DR400 setting. There’s no option to adjust Shadow or Highlight because the curve has already been set. That’s what I think is going on, but I have no proof. It’s just a theory.
Whatever the technical mumbo-jumbo might be, the practical aspect of D-Range Priority is that in very high contrast scenes, this setting might help you achieve the look that you want in-camera. I did one final test, where I used some very normal settings and made an image that’s not particularly good, and I also used D-Range Priority to create a more usable (but perhaps still not very good) image of the same high contrast scene. This is the type of situation where this new option is beneficial. It’s not something that I suspect anyone will use every day, but it’s good to know that it’s there when you need it, however infrequent that might be.
