Streaming Light Through the Mountains – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 400
When Fujifilm first introduced the fifth-generation of X-series cameras, I spent some time updated fourth-generation Film Simulation Recipes for the new models. There are several small differences in how fourth and fifth generation cameras render images, most notably how deeply blue is on the Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulations. It’s an easy fix: if a fourth-generation Recipe uses one of those four film sims, reduce Color Chrome FX Blue by one (Weak instead of Strong; Off instead of Weak) on the fifth-generation camera. Or don’t make that adjustment, because you might not notice the difference anyway, and you’re perfectly happy with the results.
After republishing a number of “old” Recipes for use on the new cameras, I began to receive some feedback: stop rehashing existing Recipes. “You’re just publishing ones you’ve already made,” is one example. So I stopped. There are about 100 Recipes that I could do this with (make an X-Trans V version of an X-Trans IV Recipe). Not only would that take a lot of time to accomplish, but it would end up constituting most of the Recipes published for a couple of years. In other words, I totally get why some people would get annoyed by it. Still, there are a lot of fourth-generation Recipes that people want to use on their fifth-generation cameras.
Uptown at Sunset – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 400
One such Recipe is Kodak Portra 400, which is quite popular. Although I prefer Kodak Portra 400 v2 just a little more (that’s just my personal taste), which I did make an X-Trans V version of, I still really like this one and use it sometimes. I never did make a fifth-generation version of Kodak Portra 400, though; however, the Recipe can be used on the new cameras simply by either 1) leaving the Recipe as-is and accepting the results for what they are (which is nearly the same), or 2) do what I do, and adjust Color Chrome FX Blue to Off instead of Weak. There are a lot of people with newer models that have no idea that they can use the Kodak Portra 400 Recipe.
In other words, if you have a fifth-generation camera, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III (plus the GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF), you can use any fourth-generation Recipe—if it calls for Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, or Eterna Bleach Bypass, simply adjust Color Chrome FX Blue down one position (or don’t make that adjustment, it’s ok if you don’t). Even though I didn’t make an updated version specifically for the new cameras, the Recipe is still available for you to use. So, if you have a newer model, take a look at the X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipes, because your next favorite might be found there, just waiting to be discovered.
I have a box in my closet filled with old photos. Some are from my or my wife’s childhood in the ’80’s and ’90’s. Some are from early in our marriage. Some are of my oldest daughter when she was a baby. Many of these pictures are from point-and-shoot film cameras, like QuickSnap or Kodak FunSaver disposable cameras, which were developed at one-hour photo labs. These express photo labs used to be everywhere, but nowadays they’re pretty rare. I was looking through the photo box recently, reminiscing on old times, and I was captivated by the aesthetic of some of the pictures.
The images that caught my attention were in a few different envelopes, but the commonality is that they were captured with Fujicolor Superia 400 film on a QuickSnap camera, and printed on Fujicolor Chrystal Archive paper at Ritz photo in Tucson, Arizona. During that time, Ritz was the photo store that I most commonly visited, so it makes sense that I’d drop off film for one-hour development while I purchased some rolls for my Pentax K1000 (the “real” camera I had at that time). This Recipe, which I’ve called 1-Hour Photo, is modeled after the aesthetic of those prints—not so much the look from the lens, but the colors and tonality. I suppose a Dispo-lens (or something like that) would further the look. Also, I sometimes used flash on my X100VI.
Dramatic Desert Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – 1-Hour Photo Recipe
This is a Fuji X Weekly App Early-Access Recipe, which means that it is currently only available to App Patrons; however, in time it will be available to everyone. The Early-Access Recipes have been backlogged, remaining restricted much longer than I want them to be. For example, the Recipe that this one replaces has been on the App for two years now, available only to subscribers. Last year I started a series in hopes to rectify this problem, creating a new Early-Access Recipe with each Film Simulation. I got Provia and Velvia knocked out without too much trouble, then got stuck on Astia for awhile. I’m still working on the Classic Chrome Recipe, but completed Classic Negative first; instead of waiting to release this, I decided to skip Classic Chrome for the moment, and get this one out. If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron subscriber, it’s available to you right now.
This 1-Hour Photo Recipe is compatible with all fifth-generation models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III models. You can use it on fourth-generation cameras, too; however, it will render slightly different. It’s also compatible with newer GFX models like the GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF.
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this 1-Hour Photo Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100VI, X-E5, and X-T5:
Alleyway at Night – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hotel San Carlos – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tom At Night – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
3rd St & Van Buren – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Diner Lamp – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Young Guitarist – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI (Flash On)
Barbie Skates – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI (Flash On)
Done Dining – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Tom’s Famous X-Pro3 – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Waffle House Kitchen – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Lunch is Over – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Waffle House – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Federal Express – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Backseat Dog – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Volkswagen – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bicycle Rider – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Mando Skater – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Faux Bamboo – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Raindrops & Sun – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Roadrunner – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Dilapidated Roof – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Pool Reflection – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Yellow Tree Beneath Rock – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Row of Yellow Leaves – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Logs Across Oak Creek – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Mini Subway – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Flowing Creek – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E5
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 400 more in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
I’ve never clicked with zoom lenses. For the last—oh, geez, it’s approaching 30 years now, going back to the film days—I have been using prime lenses almost exclusively. I’ve dabbled with zooms here and there, but invariably they end up collecting dust, and oftentimes eventually sold. I love my primes.
The reasons why I prefer primes over zooms are 1) they’re almost always sharper, 2) they typically have more good character and less bad characteristics, 3) they usually have larger maximum apertures, 4) they’re often smaller, and 5) they force you to remain within the constraints of that focal length. Composer Igor Stravinsky famously stated, “The more constraints one imposes, the more one frees oneself of the chains that shackle the spirit.” Pablo Picasso said, “If you have five elements available, use only four; if you have four elements, use three.” For me, prime lenses help with that; however, it doesn’t mean I’m anti-zoom, only that most of the time I prefer primes. Ideally, I’d purchase two or three primes instead of a single zoom that covers those focal lengths.
Fujifilm has an obvious hole in the prime-lens lineup: long telephoto. There’s the wonderful Fujinon 90mm f/2, which is one of my favorite lenses. The 135mm full-frame equivalent focal-length used to be quite common, but it’s not nearly as popular nowadays. After that there’s the 200mm f/2 and the new 500mm f/5.6, both of which are bulky and expensive (although I’m sure they’re quite excellent). What’s missing are a couple of smaller, more affordable options. Something like a 135mm f/2.8 (or f/3.5) that’s not more than 20% larger and heavier than the 90mm f/2, and not more than $1,500—the smaller, lighter, and less expensive the better. I’d also like to see something around a 330mm (500mm full-frame equivalent) f/4 (or f/4.5) that’s maybe roughly around the same size of the 70-300mm zoom, and under $2,000. But those two lenses don’t exist.
I’m strongly considering purchasing something more telephoto than the 90mm f/2, and the 200mm f/2 and 500mm f/5.6 are not an option. So that leaves me with zooms. I used to own the 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6, and as much as I tried to like it because I spent a lot of money on it, I just couldn’t. It was a disappointment, so I sold it. Last weekend, at a local Fujifilm event, I was able to try out two zooms: Fujinon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 and Fujinon 150-600mm f/5.6-8. I want to briefly talk about those two, and at the end I’ll tell you what I decided.
The first lens that I tried was the 70-300mm f/4-5.6. It’s very lightweight for what it is. I was quite impressed with the image quality and overall performance. At the long end, there’s some obvious vignetting when wide open that seems to improve but not completely disappear as you stop down. I noticed some minor chromatic aberrations in a couple instances. It does seem slightly softer at 300mm than 200mm, but I didn’t use it enough to feel confident in that judgement, and it was still more than sufficiently sharp at 300mm. I feel like this lens isn’t perfect, but it significantly outpaced my expectations for a $950 zoom.
The second lens that I tried was the 150-600mm f/5.6-8. This lens is much larger, heavier, and more expensive than the 70-300mm. I was impressed by the reach. I was able to photograph mountains that were far away. I wasn’t close to downtown, but I was able to photograph it nonetheless. It was definitely more difficult to use than the 70-300mm because oftentimes one doesn’t need 150mm, let alone 600mm. Still, the pictures are beautiful, and the overall sharpness and IQ seems to be just a little better than 70-300mm; however, at the longer end, say beyond 400mm and getting increasingly worse as you reach 600mm, the pictures become softer. Some reasons for this might be 1) atmospheric haze and heatwaves, 2) higher ISOs to compensate for the smaller maximum aperture and faster shutter speeds necessary, and 3) diffraction from the smaller apertures. I liked the image quality from the 70-300mm more at 300mm than the 150-600mm at 600mm; however, the 150-600mm seems to have slightly better IQ at 300mm than the 70-300mm has at 300mm. I also noticed some vignetting at 600mm.
The lens that I decided on is the Fujinon 70-300mm. I’m also planning to purchase the 1.4x TC to occasionally give it just a little more reach when needed. I’ve heard good things about that combination. It seems like it will be more than good enough for what I need it for. If Fujifilm ever made that 135mm f/2.8 and 330mm f/4, I’d prefer that over the zoom. With the options available, the 70-300mm appears to be the best choice for me. It’s surprisingly good, and a bonus is that it’s reasonably affordable.
Now that you have the BewareMyVelvia Recipe programmed into your Fujifilm camera, it’s time to make some multiple-exposure photographs using that Recipe. The process I’m discussing here comes from Tom Baumgaertel, a.k.a. bewaremyfuji. This is fairly easy to do, but also quite tricky. You can expect to make a lot of mistakes and have plenty of failures, but, as you get more and more experience, it will begin to make sense, and you’ll get better with it. Pretty soon you’ll begin to achieve striking results. This won’t come naturally to most people, but it’s something that anyone can learn. Just be patient, and don’t give up.
For this technique, you do need a fourth or fifth generation X-series camera, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III. You can also do this with a GFX100, GFX100S, GFX 50S II, GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF. On most Fujifilm cameras you can do multiple-exposure photography, but only the “newer” cameras (X-Trans IV and V) are capable of this particular technique. I recommend Large image size, and either JPEG or RAW+JPEG (I select L 3:2 Fine+RAW, personally).
Neon Dog – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – BewareMyVelvia Recipe – Triple Exposure
Step one is to set up Multi Exposure in the camera. There is some variance in how this is done depending on the model. Many cameras have a Drive button (for example, X100VI, X-E5, GFX100S II, X-S20), and when you press that, a menu appears—simply scroll until you find Multi Exposure. On other cameras (for example, the X-T5), it’s in Shooting Setting subset of the main Menu. If you can’t find it, refer to your camera’s manual. Once you locate Multi Exposure, you are presented with four options: Additive, Average, Comparative Light, and Comparative Dark. Choose Additive. You can use the BewareMyVelvia Recipe with Average, too, but for this exercise you’ll want to use Additive.
The Additive option in Multi Exposure will (as the name implies) add each exposure on top of the others, increasing the brightness. Because of this, it’s very easy to overexpose the image. This is a major piece of caution. Underexposure will be your best friend. I avoid anything brighter than -1 Exposure Compensation, and find myself often using -2 or even -3 sometimes. It’s very easy to add too much exposure, so less is often more.
Once you find something to photograph, compose your image and press the shutter release button. The camera will say: OK Next; ◀︎ Retry; Back Exit. If you are satisfied with your photo and want to layer another image, choose OK. If you are satisfied with your photo but don’t want it to be a multiple-exposure picture (only a single-exposure image), select Back, and the camera will save the photo, and restart the Multi Exposure process. If you are unsatisfied with your picture, arrow to the left and try again (the picture will not be saved).
If you are satisfied and ready to layer the next image, select OK and look for another scene to add to what you’ve already captured. It’s important to carefully consider shadows and highlights, as well as space. Light areas over light areas will look bright and possibly muddy. Dark areas over dark areas will hide details. Placing something bright within a dark area will stand out the most. Since your previous image is superimposed over the current scene, that will help you to align it. Be creative, and experiment with composition and element placement. If you mess it up, simply arrow to the left and retry—you have unlimited redos, as long as you don’t power off the camera. There were instances that I retried an exposure 10 or more times before I was finally satisfied with it.
You can stop at two exposures, or blend as many as nine. Two or three is often enough. I would avoid going beyond five, but feel free to try. The camera will save each individual frame used in the multiple-exposure image, in addition to the multiple-exposure image itself. You can get creative with the exposures, by adding intentional movement or going out of focus with one or more of the shots. Sometimes a subtle splash of color within the negative space can make a major difference. There’s a lot of experimentation that you can do here, so don’t be afraid to try different things.
Another important creative step, which is optional but highly encouraged, is to change the White Balance between exposures. The easiest way to do this is adjust the WB Shift from -9 Red to +9 Red in between the first and second (or second and third) exposures, which I did frequently but not always. This is something that you can go crazy with, so don’t be afraid to try wild ideas. Adjusting the Kelvin value to something cool (like 3200K) or warm (like 9000K) can be fun; however, simply changing the WB Shift is probably enough. I encourage you to experiment with this, but at the very least, try using a -9 Red WB Shift on some exposures and +9 Red on other exposures within the same multiple-exposure image. That tip alone is both mind blowing and mind opening, so be sure to thank Tom for it.
First Exposure, BewareMyVelvia Recipe, -2 Exposure Comp
Second Exposure, BewareMyVelvia Recipe, -2 Exposure Comp
Third Exposure, BewareMyVelvia Recipe with +9 Red WB Shift, -2 Exposure Comp
Triple exposure photograph, cropped slightly
The example above shows how this works. All three exposures are dark, but when combined together they’re much brighter (that’s how Additive Multi Exposure works). Also, the three frames on their own are nothing spectacular, but when combined together, it’s actually kind of interesting. Had I not adjusted the WB Shift in between the second and third exposure, the picture would have been boring—I know this because that’s what I initially did; however, I redid the third exposure, making sure to adjust the WB Shift from -9 Red to +9 Red. Sometimes multiple-exposures work well without that WB Shift adjustment (see the BewareMyVelvia Recipe examples in Part 1), but oftentimes that WB Shift adjustment is what makes the photo pop.
Below is another triple exposure image example. This time, I adjusted the WB Shift in between the first and second exposure, and then switched it back in between the second and third. I also used a slow shutter speed and intentional movement (while purposefully out of focus) for the third exposure. Oftentimes I use a blurry exposure within my multiple-exposure images.
First Exposure, BewareMyVelvia Recipe, -2 1/3 Exposure Comp(it looks kind of like a double-exposure already because it was shot through glass with reflections)
Second Exposure, BewareMyVelvia Recipe with +9 Red WB Shift, -2 1/3 Exposure Comp
Third Exposure, BewareMyVelvia Recipe, -3 Exposure Comp, 1/8 Shutter
The conclusion is that, when you do multiple-exposure photography, the whole is greater than the parts. Two or three or more uninteresting frames can become something extraordinary when combined together in a thoughtful way. You’ll have the most success with this technique as the sun is going down and into the night. It’s more difficult to get good results during the day, but it’s not impossible, so be sure to try it once you’ve had a chance to practice at night.
Using the BewareMyVelvia Recipe for multiple-exposure photography was extremely enjoyable. It was really invigorating and inspiring! I had so much fun photographing with Tom, and I’m really looking forward to the next opportunity, whenever that happens. I want to give a big thank you to Tom Baumgaertel for allowing me to share his Recipe and technique—if you appreciate it, too, be sure to let him know in the comments! Below you’ll find a few more multiple-exposure example pictures.
Billboard – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Triple Exposure
DOE – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Triple Exposure
Never be Invisible – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – BewareMyVelvia Recipe – Triple Exposure
I first met Tom Baumgaertel, a.k.a. bewaremyfuji, in 2024 at a Fujifilm creator’s retreat in New York. In the time since, we’ve been a part of a few other Fujifilm events, including leading a photowalk together in San Diego. We’ve kept in touch, and even met up for some street photography in L.A. once. Tom just drove out to Arizona this last weekend to lead two photowalks in Phoenix. We’ve wanted to do some sort of collaboration for awhile now, but it just wasn’t the right timing; however, we were able to get this project sorted out while Tom was out here.
Let’s get to some important notes right off the top. First, this is a two-part article—you’re reading Part 1 right now. You’ll find a Film Simulation Recipe below that Tom created and uses for his iconic multiple-exposure images, but Part 2 will explain how to use it to actually make multiple-exposure photographs. Second, this Recipe is intended as the ground floor. You are highly encouraged to experiment with it, modify it, and make it your own. Tom doesn’t strictly stick to it, but makes changes sometimes depending on the exact situation. His Recipe has evolved over time, and will likely continue to evolve. You are not only welcomed to make changes to it, but it is recommended that you do, as you practice more and more with multiple-exposure photography, so that it reflects your style and matches your specific photographic situations. All of the pictures in this article were made with the Recipe as-is, unmodified.
Lime City – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – BewareMyVelvia Recipe
You will notice that most of the example pictures are not multiple-exposures, but single-exposure images. This Recipe, which I’ve named BewareMyVelvia in honor of Tom’s social media handle, was created for and is intended for multiple-exposure photos; however, it works well for regular pictures, too. You don’t have to use it for its intended purpose. I saved most of the multiple-exposure images for Part 2, and that’s where you’ll find more example pictures.
Tom’s Recipe reminds me a lot of cross-processed Fujichrome Velvia 50, a low-ISO slide film made by Fujifilm. Cross-processing is developing film in chemistry other than what it’s supposed to be developed with. It can mean a lot of different things, but most commonly it’s E6 slide film developed in C41 negative film chemistry. Results can vary greatly, but Velvia 50 becomes more grainy and contrasty, with a strong color cast that is often yellow or green. I’ve included some examples of actual cross-processed Fujichrome Velvia 50 below, which I photographed way back in 2014.
Above: Fujichrome Velvia 50 35mm film that’s been cross-processed.
If you are after that cross-processed look, one modification that you might consider is increasing Grain to Strong/Large—or, at the very least, using higher ISOs (like 3200 or 6400), which can make the picture appear more grainy (see Abstract Reflections in the example images). Tom sets Grain to Off; personally, I like the texture of film grain, so I set it to Weak/Small. It’s completely up to you, though. Also, Tom prefers more Noise Reduction than I do, so he sets High ISO NR to 0; I set it to -4 because I want less of it. Again, feel free to choose whatever you want.
This Recipe is intended for night photography. Most commonly (but not exclusively), Tom begins shooting as the sun is going down, continues through “blue hour”, and goes well into the night. But you can use it in sunny daylight, too. There are many examples in this article of daytime use, such as the picture below. In my short experience with this Recipe, I find that it oftentimes works best for multiple-exposures near or after sunset, and it oftentimes works best for single-exposure images during daylight.
If you have a fourth or fifth generation X-series camera, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III, I invite you to give this Recipe a try today. You can also use it on the GFX100, GFX100S, GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF (for the GFX50S II, I recommend increasing Shadow by +0.5). Regarding typical exposure compensation, for multiple-exposure images, you’re likely to be more in the -1 to -3 range, but we’ll talk about that in Part 2.
Film Simulation: Velvia Dynamic Range: DR200 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 6590K, -9 Red & 0 Blue Highlight: +2 Shadow: +2 Color: +4 Sharpness: +1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: 0 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photos, all camera-made JPEGs using this BewareMyVelvia Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Jaywalk – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Parking Lot – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Downtown Police – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tom at Night – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Triple Exposure
Bar – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Triple Exposure
Electric Train – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Triple Exposure
Squares – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Reflection Abstract – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Walking Reflection – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Composing on the Rear Screen – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Just Have Fun – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Stripes – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Abstract Reflections – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Patios – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Unit – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Electric Towers – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Broken Saguaro – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Saguaro Behind Yellow Blossoms – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Abstract Palm Tree Reflections – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tiny Hiker, Large Rocks – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Oasis – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tom’s Silhouette – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lime Mountains – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Southwest – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sky Harbor Tower – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Power Lines – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Uptown Sunset – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tower Against the Yellow Light – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Last Light Over the Smoky Mountain – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Adorama has a crazy good deal on the black Fujifilm X-T5 bundled with the 16-80mm f/4 lens. Not only is it $100 off (that’s Fujifilm’s discount), but they’ll throw in a free black Fujifilm X half (that’s Adorama’s discount)! Wow.
Of course, the X-T5 is great. I just used it last night for some cool multiple-exposure pictures. I definitely recommend the camera. I’ve never used the 16-80mm (I’m just not much of a zoom lens guy), but I’ve heard good things about it. And I really like the X half as a fun camera for everyday snapshots and family vacations. Altogether, that’s $2,400 for what would have cost you $3,350 just two months ago.
I don’t know why Adorama created this bundle sale, but my assumption is that they have an overstock of black X-T5 with the 16-80mm kits, plus they have too many black X half cameras sitting around. Creating this super bundle clears some of the excess stock for both. I don’t know if that’s the reason, but it seems like it must be.
I wouldn’t read too much into what any of this “means” other than one camera store has an extra supply of the black version of two different cameras. Maybe we can conclude that silver Fujifilm models tend to sell better than their all-black counterparts, but even that is speculation at best. In any event, if you’ve been thinking about getting a Fujifilm X-T5 bundled with the 16-80mm lens and have had the X half on your radar, this seems like a great opportunity for you. Or, if you’re not already using X-series gear and have been considering taking a plunge into the Fujifilm world, this might be your time. Get it before it’s gone, because this sale will probably end soon.
Last night I had the great opportunity to photograph with the one-and-only Tom Baumgaertel, better known as bewaremyfuji on Instagram. We’ll be doing a photowalk later today and tomorrow, but yesterday we were able to get out with our cameras for some night street photography. Tom is very kind, and he shared with me some of his tips and tricks for his unique multiple-exposure technique, and I was able to practice that a little. Tom pretty much invented this fascinating approach, which can lead to some incredible photos. Best of all, it’s done in-camera, and not with software.
I’m very much still learning, and nowhere near as talented as Tom is. His photography is on another level. I don’t want to necessarily copy him, either, only be inspired by him. Anyway, the pictures below are my best multiple-exposure from last night. I’m hoping to make a more detailed how-to article with the settings and such in the future, so that you, too, can do something similar. In the meantime, I hope that you enjoy the images.
2nd Ave Garage – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Never be Invisible – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tattoo Tracks – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Renaissance – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bar – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Stroh’s – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5Pool – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
A Fuji X Weekly reader shared with me some scans of expired Kodak Vision2 250D motion picture film that he shot on a Canon camera and had developed using the ECN-2 process. The pictures were very interesting, and I thought it would be fun to recreate the aesthetic for my Fujifilm cameras. I don’t feel that this Recipe is a 100% perfect match, but it’s pretty darn close, and definitely has the right vibe.
Kodak made Vision2 250D, a daylight-balanced color negative motion picture film, from 1997 to 2005. It was replaced by the very similar Vision3 250D. I have two Film Simulation Recipes for Kodak Vision3 250D (here and here), which renders noticeably different than this Expired Kodak Vision2 250D Recipe. I doubt this will be anyone’s go-to option for everyday use, but it is a fun Recipe to use occasionally, especially if you like warm pictures. Some people enjoy purposely using expired film, and this Recipe—plus a handful of others, like Kodak Farbwelt 200 Expired, Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired, Expired Velvia, etc., etc.—allows you to replicate the experience with your Fujifilm camera.
For “newer” fourth-generation cameras—specifically, the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II—set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak; for fifth-generation cameras, which are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off. Those with newer GFX models can use this Recipe, too. The Tone Curve options (Highlight and Shadow) are not included below because this Recipe uses D-Range Priority, which disables the Tone Curve plus Dynamic Range. Fuji X Weekly App Patron subscribers have had access to this Recipe for two years now, but it’s been replaced by a different Early-Access Recipe, so it’s now available to everyone.
Film Simulation: Eterna Bleach Bypass D-Range Priority: DR-P Auto Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off (X-Trans V); Weak (X-Trans IV) White Balance: 8700K, -4 Red & -3 Blue Color: -2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Expired Kodak Vision2 250D Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4 and Fujifilm X-T5:
X-Trans IV
Sun Below the Trees and Above a Building – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Waterless Fountain Detail – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Fountain Corrosion – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Reflection & Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Architectural Abstract – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Four Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Sunlight through Tree Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
End of the Road – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Cactus Moon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
X-Trans V
Fresh Blooms, Fading Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Electric Wheels – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Pathway, Empty Chairs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Indoor Joy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Concrete Shapes – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sun-Kissed Shrub Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Garden Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Stucco & Spanish Tiles – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
CVS Pharmacy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunlit Bulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Red Vans – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Watering Pot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Backyard Girl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Happy Boy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea & Blurry Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pink Oleander Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cactus Spikes – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Curious Dog – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Enjoying the Outdoors – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunstar through Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Arizona Sunset & Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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I made this Classic Amber Film Simulation Recipe before leaving on my trip to Tennessee last month, with the intention of using it on that adventure. I had in mind a warm and contrasty negative film rendering that would pair well with autumn colors. It turned out that I was a little early for the peak fall display, and only found pops of color here-and-there; however, this Recipe ended up being absolutely perfect for the early morning forest, which was still shadowed despite being past sunrise. I also liked it in some other situations, such as sunrise, daytime, and even for concert photography. It works most ideally in low-contrast situations with cool light. This Recipe can easily be too warm and too contrasty, so it’s not for every subject or situation—you may have to use it cautiously. When it works, it really works; when it doesn’t, it really doesn’t.
I didn’t model this Recipe after any specific film. Interestingly enough, after I returned home I researched what it might be closest to, and I was surprised by what I found. This Classic Amber Recipe seems to be the most similar to Kodak Portra 400 that’s been push processed by one stop, and scanned with a Noritsu. I would add that maybe the use of a warming filter with the film, such as an 81B, might help solidify the similarities. If you Google search “Portra 400 push process” you’ll find a number of examples that are surprisingly similar to this Recipe (but, like with any film, you’ll also find many non-similar examples). If push-processed Kodak Portra 400 (perhaps with a warming filter) is the look you’re after, this Recipe (unintentionally) is a good facsimile of it. In the right situations, it’s easy to love the results.
The Classic Amber Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with all fifth-generation X-Trans cameras, which are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III. It’s also compatible with the GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF. While you can technically use it on some fourth-generation X-Trans cameras (X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II), it will render slightly different (try it anyway, though, and see if you like the results).
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: Fluorescent 1, +1 Red & -6 Blue Highlight: -1.5 Shadow: +2.5 Color: +4 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Classic Amber Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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A little over three years ago, I published Is Fujifilm Losing Its Soul?, which was my personal criticism of the direction the brand seemed to be heading at that time. “Fujifilm has already lost its soul,” I wrote. “It’s done gone. Elvis left the building awhile ago.”
In that article, I argued, “Fujifilm’s philosophy for their X-series cameras was analog-inspired innovations with a focus on the photographer’s experience (both while using the camera for photography, and as customers of the brand). This was their soul. That philosophy, which seemed to be clearly understood, is what drove the camera department of the company. From the design decisions to the Kaizen firmware updates and everything in-between, this philosophy oozed out—it was both obvious and attractive, and is why Fujifilm was suddenly successful….”
Photowalk in Infrared – Ann Arbor, MI – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
My two main arguments were that Fujifilm had abandoned Kaizen (which, for a time, they had… hello, X-T3, and even X100V and X-Pro3), and they were more focused on attracting new customers from Canikony brands than they were on making their long-time loyal customer base happy. There was a time when that seemed to be very true. But we’re more than three years since now, is it still true today? Or has Fujifilm regained its soul?
While I’d love to see even more Kaizen (such as giving the X-T50 and X-M5 the ability to save Recipes in FS1/FS2/FS3), Fujifilm did show some love when they gave the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20 the Reala Ace Film Simulation. After a pause, Fujifilm did bring back Kaizen, but it’s time for a little more of it. I understand that the firmware department is probably swamped, and providing updates for older models probably isn’t as large of a priority as making firmware for upcoming cameras, but this should still be an important aspect of the brand, and not neglected. So I would say that progress has been made on this front, but there’s room for improvement.
Camera Conversations – Ann Arbor, MI – Fujifilm X-T50 – Superia Negative
As for the types of cameras that Fujifilm makes and what the intended customer base is for those models, I think Fujifilm has done a great job over the last couple of years with this. They listened to their customers, and took some risks. I think they have begun to realize what their actual advantage is over the other brands, and have done a much better job communicating why that might be preferable. Again, there’s definitely room for improvement, but they seem to have pivoted slightly, and they’re on a better course now, in my opinion.
Fujifilm’s largest asset is not a product—it’s the community that has sprung up around straight-out-of-camera photography from their cameras (think Film Simulations and/or Film Simulation Recipes). This community is passionate, helpful, and kind—generally, just good people. And this community, which has grown and grown and grown, has done far more to sell Fujifilm cameras than any marketing campaign could ever dare to achieve. Fujifilm could do more to support and facilitate the growth of this community, but 1) they recognized the existence and importance of this large group and 2) they’re doing a heck-of-a-lot more now than three years ago. Fujifilm has made large strides, and are even making products and design choices with these people in mind. This community is an important part of the brand, and Fujifilm finally figured that out. Much of the success that Fujifilm has experienced over the last few years has been because of these people.
Photowalk Discussion – Ann Arbor, MI – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Negative – by Amanda Roesch
The question is: what should Fujifilm do moving forward? I already mentioned more Kaizen. An X-Pro3 successor is already in the works, so I’ll skip past that. I think a flagship model with retro styling and traditional tactile controls should be high on Fujifilm’s to-do list… that could be the upcoming X-Pro, an upgraded X-T6, or a brand-new line—the long-time loyal base shouldn’t have to settle for PASM (I know that some people prefer PASM) in order to have the best-of-the-best X-series camera. The GFX100RF shouldn’t be the only retro-styled GFX offering, either. Fujifilm should make programming Recipes into their cameras easier (I’m happy to help with that, btw, if Fujifilm is interested). There are probably a thousand ideas that I could propose, these are just scratching the surface—hopefully someday I’ll have the opportunity to share them with the company.
To answer the question asked in this article’s title, Fujifilm has taken many steps towards regaining its soul in the three years since I wrote that article. Elvis has returned for an encore, and what an encore it has been! But there’s certainly more that they could and should do. It’s not all rainbows and lollipops, but I’m quite happy with the path that Fujifilm currently seems to be heading down. In my opinion, I think they briefly lost their way, but they’re back on track, and have been for a couple of years now.
I’m not a concert photographer. I attend maybe one or two each year, and generally don’t have good seats; besides, the events often have a “no camera” policy. But I get asked quite frequently which Film Simulation Recipes are best for concert photography. I never have a good answer (only guesses), so when the opportunity came to try out various Recipes at a rock concert, I jumped at the chance. All of these pictures were captured from my seat at the back-right corner of the venue—not the best spot, but not terrible, either.
This will be a series of articles, with this post serving as Part 1. I loaded eight Recipes into my Fujifilm X-T5 (plus 11 in my X-E5), and reshuffled a bit at intermission. This was actually a three-day concert, so I did this multiple times. Later, I reprocessed some of the RAW files in-camera to see how some additional Recipes would do. For Part 1, the twelve Recipes are Superia Negative, Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm, Velvia Film, Cinematic Film (those four are all Film Dial Recipes), Reala Ace, Pacific Blues, Superia Xtra 400, Nostalgic Americana, Nostalgia Negative, Kodak Negative, Kodak Portra 400 v2, and Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1. The one requirement that I gave myself is that the Recipes needed to use DR400 to help keep the highlights in check.
All of these 12 Recipes seemed to do well. None were busts. My favorites were the Classic Negative-based Recipes: Superia Negative, Pacific Blues, Reala Ace, and Superia Xtra 400. I can definitely recommend those, especially Superia Negative and Reala Ace. I also liked the Nostalgic Neg.-based Recipes: Nostalgic Americana, Nostalgia Negative, and Kodak Negative. My least favorite were the Velvia-based Recipes: Velvia Film and Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1. That’s not to say those Recipes were bad, only that I liked the others better. I think any of these 12 would work, but, in the future, I’d probably choose a few Classic Negative options, plus one or two Nostalgic Neg., and call it good.
The band in top photo is We Came From Space, which you’ll see a little more of in the upcoming parts (I’m not sure yet just how many posts there will be in this series, but likely three). They’re a classic rock/synth rock/blues rock/prog rock/pop fusion with out-of-this-world talent (sorry for the pun). All the remaining photos are of Cosmic Cathedral, a groove-oriented progressive rock super group featuring Phil Keaggy on guitars/vocals, Neal Morse on keyboards/guitar/vocals, Bryon House on bass, and Chester Thompson on drums (if you’ve ever seen Genesis or Phil Collins live, you’ve likely heard Chester keeping time). A number of additional musicians joined the band to complete the sound. This was their first concert as a band, and it was such a great show!
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Hillside – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Pro 400
One film can produce many various looks depending on a whole host of factors. How was it shot: overexposed (and by how much), box speed, or underexposed (and by how much)? What gear was used, especially which lens? Were any filters used? What was the exact light situation? How was the film stored and handled? How was it developed, including how fresh were the chemicals, and what was the temperature and pH of the water? If it was printed, how was that handled and what paper was used? If it was scanned, which scanner was used, what were the settings, and what post-processing was done? How are you viewing the photo: print, light table, computer monitor, cellphone screen? There are a thousand factors that can affect the outcome—some a little, some a lot.
Sometimes I’ll get contradicting feedback on a certain Film Simulation Recipe. One person will say, I’ve shot with that film, and the Recipe matches almost exactly; another will say, I’ve shot with that film, and the Recipe is way off. That shouldn’t be surprising for the reasons pointed out in the last paragraph—both statements are probably quite true. There are other factors, of course, that are worth considering. One is called “memory color” (which is often mentioned by Fujifilm), in which we remember a film looking a certain way, but in reality our memory of it is a little off. I’ve experienced this personally, where I thought a certain group of settings looked exactly like some emulsion, but when I actually compared them side-by-side it was not such a close match after all. Which is preferable: memory color accuracy or technical accuracy? There’s no correct answer to that question, but you may prefer one over the other. Another significant factor is that, although Fujifilm does provide a fair amount of tools to customize aesthetics in-camera, there’s only so much that you can do with the options available to achieve a certain look. You can only get so close, and not a 100% match; however, it is surprising how close a Recipe will get sometimes. Also worth mentioning is that digital sensors and silver film behave quite divergently sometimes.
Fujifilm modeled the Classic Chrome Film Simulation after (non-specific) Kodak slide films from the 1980’s and ’90’s. Classic Chrome has some obvious similarities to both Kodachrome and Ektachrome; however, it’s not an exact facsimile of either (think of it more like a fictitious Kodak slide film). It does have a distinct Kodak-esque color palette, so it is a great Film Simulation to build Kodak Recipes on. The Nostalgic Neg. Film Simulation also has a Kodak-like palette, but it is intended to resemble prints from the 1970’s, and not projected slides or scanned film. Eterna and (to a lesser extent) PRO Neg. Std can be modified into Kodak aesthetics; however, they’re not modeled after any Kodak stocks. Circling back to Classic Chrome, I want to emphasize that it is primarily intended to replicate color reversal (slide) film, and not negative film.
Garden Lake – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak Pro 400
The newest Film Simulation, called Reala Ace, is modeled after color negative film, and most closely resembled Fujicolor PRO 160C. Despite its name, it’s quite obviously inspired by the ISO 160 Fujicolor PRO line of films; basically, it’s a new-and-improved PRO Neg. Film Simulation—a similar yet better iteration of PRO Neg. Std and PRO Neg. Hi (kind of like when Kodak replaced the NC and VC versions of Portra and introduced a new iteration of the films in 2011, except we still have the two PRO Neg. options…). Reala Ace doesn’t have a distinct Kodak palette, but, like PRO Neg. Std, it can be made into a Kodak-like look. The advantage of using Reala Ace instead of Classic Chrome is that it retains that “print film” quality of the Film Simulation.
This new Kodak Pro 400 Recipe came about after some feedback that Reala Ace might be a better foundation for a Kodak Portra 400 look than Classic Chrome. I had previously considered the possibility, but hadn’t put any effort into creating it. So I researched pictures and fiddled with the camera settings. I made a few different versions, which matched some certain examples but were notably off from others. I had to narrow it down to which specific Kodak Portra 400 look I wanted to replicate, and get as close to that as I could, with some compromises. It was definitely a process, and sometimes quite frustrating, but I settled on these settings. One disadvantage of using Reala Ace, obviously, is that, at its core, it’s a Fujicolor look, and sometimes that still comes through. You could think of it as printing Kodak film on Crystal Archive paper instead of Endura or Ektacolor. That’s not what this Recipe mimics, but it is a way to make peace with the issue. Most of these pictures were reprocessed in-camera using this Recipe, and not directly captured with it; however, I do have a bunch of other pictures (that are perhaps “less inspiring”) that were actually captured with the Recipe, but I only included a couple of them.
In the end, I feel that I got close-but-no-cigar. I think, in certain situations with certain subjects and lighting, this Recipe can be quite convincing at mimicking Kodak Portra 400 film. There are pictures in this article that you could put side-by-side with certain Kodak Portra 400 frames, and it would be difficult to distinguish which was the film and which was the Recipe. But there are other images that are so far off that I could not find a matching Portra 400 look (trust me, I tried). So I would say that this Recipe is hit-or-miss, and that’s why I didn’t name it Kodak Portra 400 v3 (although that’s what it’s named in my cameras right now). It’s definitely Portra 400 related. The full name of the film is Kodak Professional Portra 400, so I’m calling this Recipe Kodak Pro 400. There’s also Pro Image 100, another Kodak negative film, and this Recipe by chance isn’t terribly far off from that, either; however, it’s not intended to resemble that emulsion, and isn’t quite as good of a match. Either way, like the other Portra Recipes, how close it is or isn’t depends on which pictures you are looking at.
Walking the Museum Grounds – Savannah, GA – Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak Pro 400
I included a lot of sample pictures in this article, which will hopefully help to determine when this Recipe works well and when maybe it’s less than ideal. Like the film, it thrives in daylight, but this might be a better choice than some others in overcast situations. I also included a comparison of this Kodak Pro 400 Recipe with Reggie’s Portra, Kodak Portra 400, and Kodak Portra 400 v2 at the bottom of this article (for Reggie’s Portra and Kodak Portra 400, I set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off). I find it interesting that there are some common settings between this and the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe, and also some opposite settings—that’s unintentional, just the way it worked out. Because this Recipe uses Reala Ace, it’s compatible with fifth-generation models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, and X-E5. It’s also compatible with the latest GFX cameras: GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF. Those who have been dissatisfied with the Portra 400 Recipes may find that they like this one better; those who love the Portra 400 Recipes might not be convinced that this is an improvement. Personally, I really like it, and I might keep both this and Kodak Portra 400 v2 in my C1-C7, as there are times when one might be preferable over the other.
Film Simulation: Reala Ace Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 5200K, +2 Red & -3 Blue Highlight: -2 Shadow: 0 Color: +1 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Kodak Pro 400 Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T5 and X100VI:
Birthday Boy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
(Not) Riding a Trolley – Washington, D.C. – Fujifilm X100VI
We’re on a Roll – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
AMC – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Electric Sunset – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
California Sunset – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Full Moonrise – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Light, Reflected Light – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Canon Camera – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Sunset in the Mirror – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Terminally Waiting – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Warm Wood – Elk, CA- Fujifilm X-T5
Stairs – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Underground Station – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Roundhouse Locomotive – Savannah, GA – Fujifilm X100VI
Shop Interior – Savannah, GA – Fujifilm X100VI
The Tides – Bodega Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Bodega Bay – Bodega Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Greenwood Cove – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Turquoise Pacific – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Fog over Wild Brush – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Fog Rolling In – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Highway 1 – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Coastal Fog – Elk, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Magnolia – Savannah, GA – Fujifilm X100VI
Wet Sidewalk – Savannah, GA – Fujifilm X100VI
Wet Alley – Savannah, GA – Fujifilm X100VI
Red Bull – Savannah, GA – Fujifilm X100VI
Squirrel Box – Washington, D.C. – Fujifilm X100VI
Turn Arrow – Washington, D.C. – Fujifilm X100VI
Corridor – Arlington, VA – Fujifilm X100VI
Gravestones – Arlington, VA – Fujifilm X100VI
Empty Trail – Navarro, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Southwest Sky – Arlington, VA – Fujifilm X100VI
Pilot Paused – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Bus Stop – San Francisco, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Box Truck – South San Francisco, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Jackpot – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Bike, Parking – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI
Blue Car – San Francisco, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
99 – San Francisco, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
No Parking, unless it’s an RV – Fort Bragg, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Tall Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Comparison
Kodak Pro 400 Recipe
Reggie’s Portra Recipe
Kodak Portra 400 Recipe
Kodak Portra 400 v2
Kodak Pro 400 Recipe
Reggie’s Portra Recipe
Kodak Portra 400 Recipe
Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe
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I made a mistake in the Week 16 update. The photo listed as “Wednesday, April 9th, 2025” was actually captured on Thursday, April 10th. And the photo purportedly captured on April 10th was actually made on the 11th. And so on. Each photo is off by one day, except for the first, which really was photographed on Tuesday, April 8th. That’s the only one that is correct. I’m sorry for getting that wrong.
The photo that should have been listed as Wednesday, April 9th, is below. It’s the only picture that I made on that day, and I failed to upload it, which is why I overlooked it. I noticed the discrepancy yesterday when I was preparing this article. In order to get back on track, I’ve changed the formatting just a little—I hope you don’t mind.
The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. Most days are easy, but some are not. I’ve managed at least a small handful of photographs on most days, but on a few occasions (like April 9th above), it’s been only one picture.
Without further ado, below are the 17th set of pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.
This is a one-year photo-a-day project called 52 Weeks of Photography. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time, because it’s a little easier to manage many small blocks than one large chunk. This is the 10th week, so the 10th set of seven images. I can’t believe that I’m nearly 1/5th finished!
The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping that this will help.
Ford Falcon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe
The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment. And maybe when the whole project is complete, there will be 12 significant pictures (out of the 365) that I’m particularly proud of.
A lot of personal things came up this week. There were a couple of time that I thought I was going to fail. Somehow I managed to photograph each day, and I think it is because of the habits formed during the first nine weeks—if the same obstacles had presented themselves earlier in the project, I’m confident that I wouldn’t have completed it. Because those habits had cemented themselves already, it helped tremendously. Life happens, so I built into this project two days that can be missed. At some point I know that I’ll need to use those, but I’d rather save them for later if possible, and thankfully it was possible.
Below are the 10th set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.
Shutter speed simply controls the amount of time that light is exposed to the camera’s sensor. How motion is rendered—either frozen still or as a blur—will depend on the shutter speed. There are a few key things to know, but overall this is all fairly easy to understand.
Before we dive in, I want to quickly revisit aperture, because there’s something I forgot to mention in Part 1. How sunstars and lens flare will appear depends on a number of factors, including (among other things) the aperture you’ve selected. For more pronounced sunstars, use a small aperture, such as f/16. If you want to minimize sunstars and lens flare, use a large aperture, such as f/2. This is just one more factor to consider when choosing the most appropriate aperture for the scene in front of you.
Forest Sunstar – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50 & Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens at f/14 – California Summer
Now, with that out of the way, let’s talk about shutter speeds. What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want?
The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is that it is the amount of time the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light in. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and ISO, and must be used in balance with the other two elements. On many Fujifilm cameras, the shutter speed is controlled by a knob on the top of the camera, marked with numbers like 125, 250, 500, etc., etc..
Some common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30. Like aperture, there are intermediate stops in-between the full stops—most commonly one-third stops, but sometimes half-stops.
Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion as a blur, while a fast shutter speed will freeze it. In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.
In order to freeze motion, there are a few considerations: the focal length of the lens, the distance of the moving object, and it’s speed. The longer the focal length of the lens, the faster the minimum shutter speed needs to be; the shorter the focal length, the slower the minimum shutter speed needs to be. The closer and faster the moving object is, the faster the shutter speed needs to be; the further and slower the moving object is, the slower the shutter needs to be in order to freeze it.
If nothing is moving in the frame, the only motion is the photographer. A tripod will eliminate camera shake; if you don’t have a tripod, in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS) or optical-image-stabilization (OIS) can help to a degree. If your gear doesn’t have stabilization, you’ll want to use this rule of thumb: whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 18mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 27mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/30. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice.
Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 – f/9, ISO 320, 1/680 shutter – 1970’s Summer
In order to freeze motion, for portraits, events, kids, and pets, I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/125, but faster is better, such as 1/250. For sports and moving wildlife, the minimum shutter speed should be 1/250, but faster is better, such as 1/500. If the motion is blurry, increase the shutter speed. In order to show motion as a blur, the maximum shutter speed will likely need to be under 1/125, and probably under 1/30, just depending on the situation. If the blur is insufficient, decrease the shutter speed.
Another shutter speed consideration is in regards to flash photography. Some cameras, such as the X100-series, have a leaf shutter, which allows for high-speed flash sync; however, most cameras don’t have a leaf shutter, and have a maximum shutter speed for flash. On Fujifilm models, this is marked by an “X” next to the shutter speed—for example, on the X-T5, the maximum shutter speed for flash photography is 1/250, which is marked as 250X on the shutter knob. The fastest shutter speed you should use with flash photography is the one with the X next to it.
The two main things to remember about shutter speed are 1) that it is used to show motion, either frozen still or as a blur, and 2) it is one aspect of the exposure triangle, and must be balanced with both aperture and ISO. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the light, so you may need to use a larger aperture and/or a higher ISO to compensate; reducing the shutter speed increases the light, so you may need to use a smaller aperture and/or lower ISO. It’s a balancing act. Used thoughtfully, shutter speed can express movement in creative ways, so take a moment to consider how to best use it for the scene in front of you.
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Aperture is a fundamental aspect of photography. The exposure (brightness) of an image is determined by the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO (referred to collectively as the “exposure triangle”). Yet many photographers don’t fully understand aperture, and when to choose which f-stop. It’s more than just a setting—it’s a creative tool that can dramatically impact the look and feel of your images. Understanding how aperture affects depth-of-field, exposure, and sharpness will help you take control of your photography and achieve your artistic vision.
With Fujifilm cameras, you’ll typically control the aperture via a ring on the lens, which are marked in f-stops. A large aperture has a low f-stop number, such as f/2, while a small aperture has a high f-stop number, like f/16. There are full-stops (e.g. f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22); in-between the full stops are intermediate stops, which are most commonly third-stops (e.g. (f/1.8, f/2.2, f/2.5, f/3.2, f/3.5, f/4.5, f/5, etc., etc.) and less commonly half-stops (e.g. f/1.7, f/2.4, f/3.3, f/4.8, etc.). A large aperture (low f-stop number, such as f/1.4 or f/2.8) allows more light into the camera and also creates a shallow depth-of-field (only a narrow slice in focus), making the subject stand out against a blurred background and/or foreground—common for portraits, where you want to separate the subject from distractions. A small aperture (high f-stop number, such as f/11 or f/16) allows less light into the camera and also creates a large depth-of-field (lots in focus), which is common for landscapes where you have several compositional elements at various distances from the camera.
Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Reggie’s Portra
The closer the subject is to the end of the lens, the more shallow the depth-of-field will be, and the further the subject is, the larger the depth-of-field will be, regardless of the aperture. In other words, the focus distance and aperture work together to create the depth-of-field, whether narrow or expansive. To achieve a narrow slice that is in focus (a small depth-of-field), one should position the subject close to the camera and use a large aperture (for example, f/2); to achieve a broad slice that is in focus (a large depth-of-field), one should position the subject further from the camera and use a small aperture (for example, f/11).
The aperture you choose determines how much light enters the camera (shutter speed determines for how long the sensor will be exposed to that light). A large aperture (such as f/1.7 or f/2) allows more light to enter, which is useful in low-light conditions, such as indoors or at night. A small aperture (such as f/13 or f/16) reduces the amount of light, which is useful in bright daylight situations. Even though you might wish for a shallow or large depth-of-field, the conditions might prevent you from using the most ideal aperture for what you want to achieve.
Adjusting the aperture affects other exposure settings. If you open up the aperture for more light, you may need a faster shutter speed and/or a lower ISO to compensate. Conversely, if you stop down the aperture, which allows less light, you might need to increase the ISO or use a slower shutter speed. This is a balancing act that should be thoughtfully considered—compromises are often necessary.
Aperture also influences sharpness. While stopping down (using a smaller aperture) generally increases the area of sharpness (depth-of-field), it might actually decrease sharpness. Every lens has a “sweet spot”—an aperture range where it delivers the best overall sharpness. For many lenses, this is between f/4 and f/8 (this is generally speaking, and varies from lens-to-lens, and even sensor-to-sensor). At large apertures (such as f/1.4), lenses can exhibit softness around the edges due to optical imperfections, and also decreased overall sharpness. At small apertures (such as f/16), diffraction can reduce overall image sharpness. Selecting the optimal aperture range for your lens will ensure the sharpest photographs.
F-stop is more than just a technical setting, it’s an artistic choice. Large apertures can create dreamy backgrounds and subject isolation, small apertures ensure everything is in focus, while the middle apertures produce sharply detailed pictures. Whether you’re shooting portraits, landscapes, street photography, still-life, macro, or any other genre, the aperture choice will significantly effect the outcome, giving you creative control over your photography. Experimenting with different apertures will deepen your understanding of how they impact your pictures—the more you practice, the more intuitive it will become. The next time that you’re out with your camera, take a moment to consider the f-stop, because it’s one of the most powerful tools at your disposal.
I started a new 365 Day photo project, which I’m calling 52 Weeks of Photography, back on Christmas Eve. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m doing it one week at a time. This is the second week—the second set of seven images. I’m pretty excited to do this, and hope you appreciate following along on this journey.
The reason why I’m doing this photo-a-day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images over the last year. I haven’t been picking up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping this will help with that.
The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.
Below are the second set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.
Unfair Comparisons – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Astia Summer
I’m planning to do a number of comparison tests between the JPEGs from the Fujifilm GFX100S II and my X-series models, like the Fujifilm X-T5. What’s different? What’s the same? I haven’t come to very many conclusions yet. There’s clearly a difference, but it seems so subtle it is tough to put a finger on what exactly is divergent.
For this article, I’m comparing the faux Grain between the GFX100S II and the X-T5. This isn’t a carefully controlled scientific test. When my wife (on the X-T5) and I (on the GFX100S II) captured these images, we did not intend for them to be used in any sort of comparison test. I chose these because they were made in the same location (White Sands National Park in New Mexico). They were captured with the new Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired Recipe, and reprocessed in-camera with the Astia Summer Recipe. I chose those two Recipes because of their Grain: Weak/Small and Strong/Large.
Fujifilm X-T5 – Astia Summer – Grain Weak/Small
Fujifilm GFX100S II – Astia Summer – Grain Weak/Small
Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired – Grain Strong/Large
You cannot tell much at all from the above photos. From examining the pictures more closely, I can state that the size of the faux grain is a little larger in the X-T5 JPEGs than the GFX100S II, but you can’t really tell without cropping in. So let’s crop in!
In the first set (identified simply by “Crop”), I’ve made the pictures roughly the same size. If you look carefully, the Weak/Small Grain is slightly more visible in the X-T5 pictures, but it’s not overtly obvious. In the second set (identified by “Bigger Crop”), I’ve tried to match the Grain, and I had to crop much more deeply on the GFX100S II pictures to do so. These are significant crops, and you’d have to print large to view them this big. I think if a Grain size Medium existed on GFX, that would more closely match Grain size Small on the X-series.
Below is a repeat, except for with Strong/Large Grain. I think if a Grain size Medium existed on the X-T5, it would more closely match Grain size Large on the GFX100S II.
Bigger Crop – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired – Grain Strong/Large
I don’t know that it makes any practical real-world difference, but the size of the Grain—whether Small or Large—is not identical on GFX as it is on X-series cameras. It’s not scaled the same. It’s smaller on GFX and larger on X-series, specifically when comparing the 100mp images from the GFX100S II to the 40mp images from the X-T5. There are also likely variances between the 26mp APS-C sensor and the 50mp GFX sensor.
The way to look at this, I suppose, is that film grain appears more fine on medium-format film than 35mm. The difference in silver grain between—say—120 film and Advanced Photo System Type-C film is much, much more significant than the difference in Grain between GFX and X. I think you’d expect the Grain to be more “fine” on GFX—and that’s what you find—but it isn’t nearly as much of a difference as with actual film.
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Young Yucca – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm
It’s officially 2025! Happy New Year’s Day, everyone!
I started a new 365 Day photo project, which I’m calling 52 Weeks of Photography, back on Christmas Eve. This article is simply the introduction of the project, and the first set of seven images. I’m pretty excited to do this, and hope you appreciate following along on this journey.
This isn’t the first time that I’ve done a 365 Day photo project—I did one from August 2018 through August 2019. I developed the habit of picking up a camera daily, and my photography improved from start to finish. Also, I captured some photographs that I wouldn’t have otherwise, a few of which I was quite happy with. There is definitely a benefit to doing this type of thing. Professional athletes and musicians practice daily, so why shouldn’t photographers?
The reason why I’m doing this now is because I noticed gaps in-between my images. I haven’t been picking up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days have gone by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, a whole week passed. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping this will help with that.
Full Service – Idalou, TX – Fujifilm X-T5 + 56mm f/1.2 – Superia Negative
I’ve set some ground rules for myself. I’m taking things one week at a time. That’s a little easier mentally than looking at it as one whole year chunk. If I mess up on a week, I’ll simply extend the project by a week; however, I’m also giving myself two grace days. I’d actually like to finish this on Christmas Day, which is 367 days from the start. If I miss two days, that’s perfectly ok. If I miss three to seven days, this project will be extended by one week. I think it’s good to build-in some breathing room, because life happens.
My hope is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.
Below are the first set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.
Over the last several months, my wife, Amanda, and I have been sharing our Fujifilm X-T5, which I purchased in November 2022 when it first came out. Her camera is an X-T4 that she’s used for years, but lately has been drawn more to the newer model. Amanda does portrait, event and theater photography, but she really loves videography. By far, the Film Simulation Recipe that she uses the most for still photography is Reggie’s Portra; Reala Ace and Pacific Blues are a distant second and third. We used this new Fujifilm Negative Recipe for some of our photos captured on the X-T5 as we traveled across the country over the last few months.
My inspiration for this Recipe was Fujicolor PRO 160NS color negative film, although it wasn’t necessarily closely modeled after it—I just looked at a number of frames captured with that emulsion when I was creating this, so there is a noticeable similarity. Fujicolor PRO 160NS was produced by Fujifilm between 2010 and 2021; however, before that it was named PRO 160S, and before that—in the 1990’s—it was called NPS 160, with small changes and improvements over the years. While this doesn’t exactly match those emulsions, it certainly has a Fujifilm color negative film vibe, and just feels analog-like.
Camera Conversation – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujifilm Negative – by Amanda Roesch
This Fujifilm Negative Film Simulation Recipe is intended for sunny daylight photography. It works well in overcast conditions, too, and indoor natural light. It might not be the best choice for artificial light situations (can be a bit too yellow), and can be a bit too cool in the shade. This Recipe is compatible with all fifth generation X-Trans models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, and X-M5 cameras. It can be used on the latest GFX models, too, but will likely render slightly different (try it anyway).
Film Simulation: Reala Ace Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5000K, 0 Red & -2 Blue Highlight: -1 Shadow: -0.5 Color:+2 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Fujifilm Negative Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-T5:
Indoor Grass – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T5
Modeling – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Friendly Conversation – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Hot Dog Stand – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Photowalk – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Stories – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Talking About Cameras – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Reviewing Pictures – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Setting a Recipe – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T5 – by Amanda Roesch
Crosses on Steeples – Denver, CO – Fujifilm X-T5
Oak Leaf – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Lake Morning – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
First Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Third Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Fourth Catch – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Shore Fishing – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Dock Fishing – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Breakfast – Clinton, CT – Fujifilm X-T5
Camera on a Bookshelf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset over the Eucalyptus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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