Peach City Drive-In – Brigham City, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
When Fuji X Weekly reader Jackie asked if I could make a film simulation recipe that mimics the look of Kodak Ektar 100 film, I thought that it would be a simple task. Classic Chrome is halfway there already, providing a Kodak-esque look right out of the bag. But, as it turns out, creating an Ektar look wasn’t easy for one reason: Classic Chrome isn’t vibrant enough, even with color set to +4. Velvia was my next choice, but I couldn’t make it work. It turns out Astia is the key.
Before I get ahead of myself too much, let’s roll things back a little. Ektar is a color negative film made by Kodak. It’s known for vibrant colors, high contrast and fine grain, and, even though it is a negative film, it is more like reversal (slide) film. I would say that, while the results aren’t 100% identical, there are a lot of similarities between Ektar 100 and Ektachrome 100VS. In fact, when Kodak discontinued Ektachrome 100VS, they recommended Ektar 100 as the closest film.
Ektar is ideal for vibrant landscapes or any situation where you want lots of contrast and saturated colors. It’s not usually one’s first choice for portrait photography because skin tones can be off. Some people use it extensively for portraits, but the general advice is to use Ektar for everything other than people pictures. I’ve shot a few rolls of it in the past, but it’s been probably seven or eight years.
Summer Boy – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
I’m actually a little hesitant to call this film simulation recipe Kodak Ektar 100 because it’s not quite right. It’s close, but a little off. The color palette is slightly askew. Unfortunately, I couldn’t get it any closer to being right. I do feel that, if you like Ektar 100 film, you’ll like this film simulation recipe, even though it’s not an exact match.
One thing about this recipe that I’d like to mention is, while I have Dynamic Range set to Auto, almost always the camera selected DR100. If you don’t want to use DR-Auto, set it to DR100 instead and you’ll get the same results. Also, I did not use the faux grain effect for this recipe. I think you could use weak grain if the ISO is 800 or less, but once you get to ISO 1600 and higher the digital noise acts like a convincing weak grain, and adding more grain on top of it is too much. So I elected to set grain to off, but you might consider using weak grain, particularly at the lower ISOs.
Astia
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: +1
Shadow: +3
Color: +4
Noise Reduction: -3
Sharpening: +1
Grain Effect: Off
White Balance: Auto, +3 Red & -2 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photos, all straight-out-of-camera JPEGs captured using my Kodak Ektar 100 Film Simulation recipe:
Ice Cream Sandwiches – Brigham City, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
Open Fountain – Brigham City, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
Peach City Fun – Brigham City, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
Sunlit Sisters – Brigham City, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
Happy & Sad – Brigham City, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
Splash Time – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
Summer Wildflower Blossom – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
Birds In The Window – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
Crates & Dollies – Brigham City, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Ektar 100”
See also:
My Fujifilm X100F Kodak Porta 400 Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Fujicolor Superia 800 Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Vintage Kodachrome Film Simulation Recipe
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FUJI X WEEKLY 
I adapted your recipes to my X-E1 to great results, including this one, it gives great worm tones in occasions where this stand out the scene. But one of your recipes that I would love to adapt I couldn’t until now given X-E1 doesn’t have classic chrome and that’s Kodachrome II, any chance to achieve the look with any of the simulations available within X-E1?
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Perhaps try Astia. You will likely have to lower the saturation to -2, and maybe set the dynamic range to DR100. I think that should get you in the ballpark.
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Got these results
https://photos.app.goo.gl/DK7wkoerWpLJ13hr9
https://photos.app.goo.gl/xrsptwaRP8Gvrw3s6
getting closer to the look I guess
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I would say that you are certainly close. Maybe experiment with the settings until you find the right combination that gives you the results you want.
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I am newbie to Fujifilm having just purchased a XT-3. How do I set WB to “Auto, +3 Red & -2 Blue” in custom setting? Once is set to “Auto”, I can’t seem to get to the screen to set to Red or Blue. Any help would be appreciated.
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On the menu, when you select Auto White Balance, if you arrow to the right, it should bring up the white balance shift menu. I hope this helps!
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I have the same issue. When I am in edit/save custom setting I cannot shift the white balance to +3 red -2 blue it only allows auto. If I come out of the menu and shift it there and go back to custom menu settings and hit save the whitebalance will just remain the same no matter what profile im on. Any tips? Thanks!
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Only the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4 can save custom white balance shifts. Otherwise, you’ll have to adjust them each time you change recipes.
This might be helpful: https://fujixweekly.com/2019/11/06/my-white-balance-shift-solution/
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I don’t understand how the changes in Color are implemented in Fuji RAW application, is it the one that comes up with a color wheel? Great series! I just returned from a month in Tuscany, Rome, Naples and the Amalfi Coast and want to try out your recipes. THANKS.
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I appreciate your kind words. I’m not sure exactly how you use these recipes with a RAW developer, I suppose it depends on the software of choice. I rely on in-camera JPEGs, and that’s what these settings are intended for, although there very well could be other applications, I’m just not sure exactly how. Sounds like an amazing trip!
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White balance once again 😉
I try this recipe in XT2. I put + 3 Red& -2 Blue as Custom white balance. I chose this Custom in my Ektar simulation. Is this good way?
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Custom white balance could work. I prefer Auto White Balance for this recipe.
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Lovely blog! I’ve owned a X100T for 3 years, but only found your blog now that I bought a X100F 🙂
I used to love Ektar 100 on my Canonet QL GIII 17, I definitely will try it on the X100F.
Thank you!
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I appreciate your kind words and feedback! I hope you enjoy the recipe!
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Hi Ritchie, I’m loving the blog and trying out your different recipes. Are you able to have a go at recreating Kodak Gold, or suggest a current sim which may give a similar appearance?
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Thank you! I think, with Gold, it has a split-tone look, and so I haven’t had success. However, the new Classic Negative film simulation has a split-tone aesthetic, so I suspect that would be the best starting point. I don’t own an X-Pro3, so I haven’t tried. I hope to someday be able to recreate Gold, though.
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Thanks for your brilliant series Ritchie, I’m new to Film Sims. I have the 50R but when you choose Astia – the Color option is disabled. Does this only happen with the 50R?
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I have never heard of that issue. Is it just Astia? Or is color disabled on all of the film simulations?
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it’s only disabled on Astia. But the 50R is also missing WB R and B options. Maybe that is only on the X series? Anyway have asked Fuji techs about it. Thanks for the reply
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Let me know what they say, in case someone else encounters the same issue. I hope it’s a simple solution.
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Sorry, my error: I asked Fuji – some of those settings are deep in the Image Quality menus. All works fine now on the 50R. Thanks,
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Awesome to hear!
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Would you be willing to take an ektar variant request? I love the look of a certain film photographer who shoots with Ektar 100, and I just love the colors from her photos! I’ll add her instagram here: https://instagram.com/jenniferlawrencephoto?igshid=1p0whbjsyedpj
My request is if you can make a recipe that resembles her photos, nice, bright and vibrant 😍
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I’ll take a look. I appreciate the suggestion!
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I’m using an XT-2 and for those who are wondering why auto white balance coordinates can’t be saved is because they can’t, so what I’ve been doing is including the +- RGB numbers in the title of the recipes being careful to leave enough room in the window. It’s working!
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Awesome! Great tip! Thank you for sharing.
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Hi Ritchie. I’ve plugged this into my X-E4 as many of my other simulations (from you and others online) are classic chrome based so wanted to try this Astia version. What you recommend use of clarity and anything else X-Trans IV related, or keep strictly as is?
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I would consider Clarity -2, Color Chrome Effect Weak or Strong and Color Chrome FX Blue Weak, and maybe Shadow +2 (to compensate for the Color Chrome settings). But, more than that, I would recommend this:
https://fujixweekly.com/2020/08/10/fujifilm-x100v-film-simulation-recipe-kodak-ektar-100/
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By the way, scans from the Nikon coolscan 9000 ED have the same tones and if wb will be daylight the hit will be almost full.
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That’s really interesting! I appreciate the input!
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Hi, the Ektar 100 looks amazing. Would adjusting the DR to 200 affect the colours please?
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DR200 works fine! DR-Auto will choose DR100 in flat-light situations, and DR200 in contrasty situations. So the only difference is that in low-contrast scenes, the recipe will produce a slightly flatter result. Otherwise it should look the same.
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Thank you Ritchie, hopefully it will be an easy D/R adjustment within the X100 F Q menu. I love the colours and contrast provided by Ektar 100 and looking forward to using this on holiday in Cornwall. Thank you, Steve
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I’ve become fan of this recipe. However, since I just ordered a x-t30 ii, I’m wondering how these (or similar) settings will look with Classic Neg. Perhaps the higher saturation than Classic Chrome could solve the limitations when trying to match Ektar 100 film?
I’m curious what your thoughts on this idea are, and if you have any recommendations about changes to the settings to adapt this recipe to Classic Neg.
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It’s an interesting suggestion that’s worth trying. It won’t look “more” Ektar like, but might still look good. +3 Shadow might be too much because Classic Neg has a lot of contrast. I appreciate the input!
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