Fujifilm offers “Film Simulations” on their cameras instead of traditional JPEG settings. One of the most popular, available only on X-Trans III cameras, such as the X100F, is Acros.
Neopan Acros is an ISO 100 film made by Fujifilm available in 35mm and 120 formats. I’ve used it before and it’s quite good. While Fuji recycled the Acros name for their black-and-white digital Film Simulation, it’s not an exact match to the film. But that’s OK.
The Acros Film Simulation is a wonderful option that has great contrast, beautiful tonality and lovely faux film grain. An interesting fact is that the amount of film grain applied increases as the ISO increases, like what you would find if you shot actual film. So an image shot at ISO 1600 has noticeably more grain than an image shot at ISO 200.
And it really does have a film look! You’d be hard pressed to tell apart an image shot on real black-and-white film and one shot using the Acros Film Simulation. Straight-out-of-camera JPEGs look like black-and-white prints made from 35mm film. Amazing!

Sitting Large – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F
There are four Acros options: Acros (no filter), Acros+R (red filter), Acros+Y (yellow filter) and Acros+G (green filter). Acros+R is more like using a real orange filter on actual film than a red filter. Acros+Y and Acros+G are a little more subtle than if you used real filters on actual film.
I use Acros+R for landscapes (which darkens blues and lightens reds), Acros+G for people pictures (which darkens reds and lightens greens) and standard Acros for everything else. If you know what each one does, you can choose what’s best for each situation. The rest of the settings are the same.
While I have my Acros recipe programmed (custom settings 3, 4 and 5), I’m not afraid to deviate when necessary. Sometimes a little more or less contrast is needed, so I increase or decrease the highlights and shadows. If I want more grain, I will turn the Film Grain to weak (which adds more faux grain to what’s already included in the Acros Film Simulation). I might add or decrease the Dynamic Range. Each situation is different, so I try to be dynamic when shooting.
Acros/Acros+R/Acros+G
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +2
Shadows: +2
Noise Reduction: -2
Sharpening: +2
Grain Effect: Off
ISO: Auto up to 12800
Exposure Compensation: +1 (typically)
Example photos, all camera-made JPEGs captured using my Acros Film Simulation recipe:

Ilford Harman Technology – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Train Watching – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Track 1 Platform – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Black Conduit – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Safety Features – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Diversity – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Industrial Spur – North Salt Lake, Utah – Fujifilm X100F

KeyBank Building – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Salt Lake Cityscape – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Building Through The Tree Leaves – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Light Bulb Shadow – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Building Storm Over Ridge – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Man In The Straw Hat – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Joy’s Joy – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Look What I Drew – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F
See also: My Fujifilm X100F Classic Chrome Film Simulation Recipe

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Hi,
Your recipes are pretty interrested, and your blog is good reading and source of inspiration !
However, I’d like to know if there any way to set your lightroom import preset with those recipes ?
Thank you
Thank you for your kind words! I’m glad you have found inspiration here. I’m sorry that I cannot answer your question as I don’t use Lightroom (shocking, I know). Best of luck!
Hi Ritchie,
I have been following your site with great interest for a long time. Their film simulation is very exciting and close to the analogue target.
Could you please help me? I prefer B & W styles to Film Noir and more recently to Sinn City. As I am dissatisfied with my simulations, I would like to ask you to share with me for the 2 styles of the X100F, your suggestions of settings.
Thanks and greetings Klaus
I would take a look at this page, and see which b&w recipes you like:
https://fujixweekly.com/recipes/
You can use any of them on your X100F. Thank you for commenting!
Hi Ritchie,
Thanks for your quick reply. I know the simulations. Unfortunately, only the push version meets my requirements a bit. Sinn City look is very darmatic (blast flooded / whitewashed white and a Gaustufe), FilmNoir similar with dtarker vignette. I think it’s almost software only – too bad.
Thanks and greetings Klaus
I’m honored that you tried them all, and I’m sorry that you didn’t find one that works for you and your photography. It might be a limitation of the camera’s software. Thank you for your input! —Ritchie
Hi! so you can leave the Compensation: at +1 all the time in aperture priority mode?
You can. I recommend judging each exposure independently, and adjusting as needed.
The white balance is this recipe is missing. Is it Auto?
PS: I really love this simolutaion here and the trix on my xpro3!!
Auto WB, with the shift 0R & 0B. But feel free to try other White Balance option (like the Tri-X or B&W IR recipes).
I purchased a roll of ADOX Scala 160which is supposedly a replacement for Scalia 200. Maybe I’ll be able to compare the results with your recipe.
That would be interesting to see!
Hi Ritchie! I am reading your whole website as a maniac fuji girl, haha! It’s such an incredible work! Thank YOU!
I love BnW in street photography, that is mainly my bigger interest when I am shooting. Moreover, since I am a big BnW fan, I choose bnw even in indoors most of the time. I love Acros with my x-t30! It is my go-to settings of my camera. I almost use the same settings as the ones you have in this article – I just noticed that! What I wanted to ask you is about the Dynamic Range. How does this affect Acros? Can you please help me to figure out? I have set mine to DR Auto. Looking forward to hearing from you!
So DR-Auto chooses either DR100 or DR200, depending on the light (low contrast vs high contrast scenes). The Dynamic Range settings are all about protecting highlights. Each increase in DR (from DR100 to DR200 to DR400) reduces contrast a little, which also affects shadows a little, but mostly it’s highlights that are changed. Using a higher DR (such as DR400) allows you to increase the exposure some without clipping highlights, which brightens everything (except highlights). I hope this makes sense.