Limitations Improve Art: The Creative Power of Constraints

Round Window – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400

There’s been a lot of talk lately on the subject of limitations. Can a camera with fewer features actually make you a better photographer? Does the restraint of straight-out-of-camera photography force you to consider more deeply your creative choices? Were the autofocus woes of 2024 actually a blessing in disguise for some because they used that opportunity to learn new techniques and better anticipate the decisive moment? It seems counterintuitive, but can limitations actually improve your photography?

Many artists, including photographers, have discovered that constraints—whether intentional or unintentional—can actually improve creativity and technical skills. Composer Igor Stravinsky famously stated, “The more constraints one imposes, the more one frees oneself of the chains that shackle the spirit.” Simply put, less is more.

Red Yucca in the White Sand – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

Photography, like any other art form, thrives on creative problem-solving. When you limit your tools, you’re forced to think outside-the-box. For example, if you self-imposed the limitation of using just one prime lens for an entire month, you’d quickly learn how to frame shots differently, how to move to get the best composition, and how to make the most of the gear you have. Instead of endlessly swapping lenses (or constantly zooming in-and-out), you’d refine your eye.

Film Simulation Recipes are an excellent example of how restrictions can fuel creativity. In order to choose the most appropriate Recipe for your style and the specific situation, you may have to consider more deeply the colors and light of the scene in front of you. This might help improve both your vision and execution.

11th Avenue – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI – SantaColor

Another benefit of limitations is technical improvement. When you take away some of your tools—perhaps some features that you’ve convinced yourself you need—it forces you to master the fundamentals. Let’s say you decide to shoot fully manual for a week. It might be frustrating for the first few days, but then your ability to judge exposure, your understanding of the exposure-triangle, and your manual-focus skills will skyrocket.

The same applies to using a single film simulation for a project. You’ll gain a deeper understanding of how color and tonality interact. You’ll learn when Classic Chrome’s Kodak-like palette works best, or when Velvia’s vibrant colors are more appropriate. The more experience you have with film simulations and Recipes, the better you will be at getting the most out of them.

Flowers & Fruit – Austin, TX – Fujifilm X100VI – Fujicolor Blue

Pablo Picasso once said, “If you have five elements available, use only four. If you have four elements, use only three.” Working within a framework forces us to be more deliberate, more thoughtful, and ultimately more innovative. This is where creativity lives. Orson Wells put it this way: “The enemy of art is the absence of limitations.”

If you want to push your photography further, try setting some limits. Use only one camera and one lens for a month. Or shoot only black and white for a week. Stick to a single Film Simulation Recipe for an entire project. Maybe try an older, less capable camera for awhile. Or disable a feature that you often rely on, like auto-ISO or IBIS. If a certain limitation is forced on you—you didn’t choose it—don’t fret; instead, let it propel you to greater heights. You might be surprised at just how much you grow as a photographer. In the end, art isn’t about having the most or best tools—it’s about how well you use the ones you have. Limitations aren’t roadblocks; they’re opportunities, stepping stones to mastery. Constraints aren’t just a path to creativity, they are the path.

Can ChatGPT Replicate a Recipe??

Someone pointed out to me that ChatGPT can create a Film Simulation Recipe that replicates the look of any photo that you upload. Just share a picture with AI, and it will analyze the look and produce a Recipe that matches. But can it really do that? And, if so, is it accurate?

So I gave it a try. I uploaded a picture and asked AI to replicate the aesthetic of it with a Fujifilm Recipe. Sure enough, it produced one. I also asked ChatGPT to tell me which Fuji X Weekly Recipes are the closest. Let’s examine the results.

Test 1

The top picture is the camera-made JPEG captured on my Fujifilm GFX100S II using the Nostalgic Film Recipe (a Film Dial Recipe). I uploaded it to ChatGPT and asked it to make a Recipe based on that image. The second picture was reprocessed in-camera using the settings that AI provided. Quite obviously, they are pretty far apart and are not a good match.

Some of the settings are the same. Both pictures use DR400. Both are Grain Weak (although ChatGPT chose Grain size Large). Both have Color Chrome Effect Strong and Color Chrome FX Blue Weak. Noise Reduction is -4 on both. The White Balance Shift is +2 Red & -4 Blue. All of the other settings were different—for example, the Nostalgic Film Recipe calls for the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, while AI chose Classic Chrome. The Recipe made by AI isn’t too dissimilar to Kodachrome II, although not an exact match. I asked ChatGPT to tell me which Fuji X Weekly Recipes were the closest, and it suggested Kodak Ektar 100 and Kodak Gold 200.

Test 2

The top picture is the camera-made JPEG captured on my Fujifilm GFX100S II using the Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe (which is also a Film Dial Recipe). The bottom picture was reprocessed in-camera using the settings that ChatGPT provided. They are far apart, and are not an especially good match, although it is slightly better than the first test.

The Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe uses the Reala Ace film simulation, while ChatGPT chose Eterna. Most of the settings are divergent. I don’t have a Recipe that’s especially close to the one made by ChatGPT, but Timeless Negative is probably the most similar. The Fuji X Weekly Recipes that AI suggested are the closest are CineStill 800T, Kodak Ektachrome 100SW, and Kodak Vision3 250D.

Test 3

The top picture is the bottom image from Test 1. I asked ChatGPT to make a Recipe that matches it, to see if it would suggest the same settings that I used to make it (which is the Recipe AI had made just a few minutes earlier). The Recipe that it came up with was not the same, and also not a great match. Instead of Classic Chrome, it wen’t with Classic Negative. While only somewhat similar, Fujicolor Blue is probably my closest Recipe. The Fuji X Weekly Recipes that AI thought were the closest are Kodak Portra 400 and Kodak Portra 160.

Test 4

I re-uploaded the first photo from Test 1, and asked the same question to see if it would suggest the same settings, or if it would change them. Unsurprisingly, it was completely different, this time choosing Astia for the film simulation (I didn’t bother to reprocess). It suggested that my Kodak Portra 400 Recipe would be the closest match.

Conclusion

I’ve said before that ChatGPT is a neat little card trick, but once you know how it works, it isn’t nearly as impressive. I’ve also said that it will only get better with time. Both of those statements still seem to be true. While AI can analyze a picture and produce some Fujifilm settings to try—which is amazing—it isn’t very accurate. It can also suggest Fuji X Weekly Recipes that might be similar, and it is a little better at that, but still not especially good.

I have zero doubts that with enough time—and it may only be a couple of years—ChatGPT will be able to analyze a photo and produce a Fujifilm Recipe that is pretty similar. It might be even closer to suggesting an existing Recipe that isn’t far off. It’s not there yet, though.

I’m certain that ChatGPT was trained on my website. When asked directly, it says that it wasn’t, but states that it was trained on various photography blogs and forums. When I asked it to name some specific ones, the very first it listed was Fuji X Weekly. So, yeah, AI did some of its learning from my website, which of course I did not consent to nor was I compensated for. I believe that this training is ongoing, and it probably will even learn from this article that you are reading right now. This is wrong, and eventually the courts will likely determine that it is completely illegal; however, by then, the damage is done, and there’s nothing that can be done.

With all of that said, I had a conversation with a friend of mine who is super intelligent (he’s a scientist) about AI and ChatGPT. He said that he is not concerned about being replaced by AI, but he is concerned about being replaced by someone who knows how to use it better than he does. I don’t think it is prudent to ignore ChatGPT completely. While undoubtably ethically sketchy, it is a tool that can sometimes be used effectively, if you understand its strengths and weaknesses. I’m not sure what that means for me specifically, other than it is good to test it now and again to see how far it has or hasn’t come. It definitely has made some progress since the last time I tested, but not a lot.

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 5

Visit Palms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Week 4

This is a one-year photo-a-day project called 52 Weeks of Photography. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time, because it’s a little easier to manage many small blocks than one large chunk. This is the fifth week, so the fifth set of seven images.

The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping this will help with that.

Toilet Trash – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Upcoming Recipe

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

I had three especially productive days this week, and four not-so-productive ones. On two of the days, I barely met the minimum obligation, and nearly chalked them up as losses; however, I decided that there was one photo on each day that was just good enough to share, so by the skin-of-my-teeth I made it. I have built into this project two days that I can miss, just knowing that life happens, and it would have been a shame to have used both of them on week five, especially since I didn’t have a good excuse. Thankfully, I didn’t have to, but I do need to be a bit more careful and purposeful moving forward.

Below are the fifth set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, January 21st, 2025

Red Tree Trunk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 90mm f/2 – Provia Summer

Wednesday, January 22nd, 2025

Bougainvillea Blossom Bunches – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Thursday, January 23rd, 2025

Light, Color, Texture – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Upcoming Recipe

Friday, January 24th, 2025

Orange Desert – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Upcoming Recipe

Saturday, January 25th, 2025

Balloons – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Sunday, January 26th, 2025

Amphibious Vehicle Ramp – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgic Film

Monday, January 27th, 2025

Leaf Pile – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + 27mm f/2.8 – Pacific Blues

Week 6

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8:
AmazonB&HMomentWex
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in black:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in silver:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex

Fujifilm’s JPEGs Are Revolutionizing Photography

Sentinel & Merced – Yosemite NP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Vintage Color

When I first picked up a Fujifilm camera, I didn’t expect it to transform the way I approached photography. Like many others, I’d grown accustomed to shooting RAW, spending hours editing, and often feeling overwhelmed by it all, which can zap the joy right out of creating images. But then I discovered that Fujifilm’s straight-out-of-camera JPEGs are actually really good. I realized that I didn’t need to spend so much time tethered to a screen to create the photographs I loved. It wasn’t just a convenience; it was a revelation.

A lot of people are surprised to learn that Ansel Adams—the master of the darkroom—was a big fan of Polaroid cameras. He wrote a whole book about it, and dedicated a chapter to the concept of what he called one-step photography. Typically, the first step is image capture, and the second is image development, but Polaroids only required the first step (hence, one-step photography). Adams wrote, “The effect of one-step processing on both amateur and professional creative photography has been revolutionary.”

Manhattan from Pulaski Bridge – Fujifilm X-T50 – PRO Negative 160C

That’s exactly what Fujifilm cameras have achieved with their camera-made JPEGs. It’s the modern version of one-step photography. It’s not just about convenience (although it is certainly convenient); it’s a transformative approach to how we think about photography. It was a game-changer for me, and it might be for you, as well.

Fujifilm’s film simulations are at the heart of the SOOC JPEG magic. Drawing on their rich history in film photography, they’ve poured decades of analog expertise into their digital cameras. These film simulations—such as Classic Negative, Velvia, and Nostalgic Neg.—were inspired by iconic film stocks that once defined entire eras of photography. Each film simulation carries its own personality—Classic Chrome has muted tones and punchy contrast, Acros has rich monochrome depth, Eterna has cinematic softness—that give photographers a starting point that already feels curated and intentional, as if they were post-processed. The connection to Fujifilm’s film heritage makes their JPEGs feel authentic, reminiscent of analog photography—a nostalgic yet modern blend, fusing the convenience of digital with the soul of film.

Doggles – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X-T50 – Nostalgic Americana

While Fujifilm’s film simulations are good on their own, what really sets the images apart is how customizable the JPEGs are. You can tweak the settings to create Film Simulation Recipes, which empowers photographers to achieve their style straight from the camera. It’s like having a personal darkroom built into your gear, which enables you to spend less time in front of a computer and more time actually making pictures. I have published nearly 400 Recipes for Fujifilm cameras, so there’s bound to be at least one that is a match for your personal style.

Fujifilm’s SOOC JPEGs encourage photographers to slow down and think more intentionally about their craft. Choosing a Recipe for the scene that is in front of you forces you to consider your creative choices upfront. This process brings a sense of mindfulness that some find refreshing. Getting the image right in-camera is a liberating shift. You can shoot with intent, knowing that the aesthetic you’re aiming for is baked into the photo as you press the shutter. Instead of relying on post-processing to fix an image, photographers are encouraged to get it right in-camera, which is a return to the ethos of film photography, where each frame mattered, and decisions were made before the shutter clicked.

Sign on the Roof – Gila Bend, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Classic Color

This one-step philosophy—made possible by Fujifilm and Film Simulation Recipes—is sparking conversations about the value of simplicity, the importance of craft, and the joy of photography as an experience rather than a chore. While technology can sometimes complicate photography, Fujifilm has managed to simplify it without compromising quality. In my opinion, the results speak for themselves: more time spent shooting, less time stuck behind a computer screen, and photographs that feel authentic and look great. It challenges the “RAW is best” mindset. Beginners, who might feel intimidated by the complexities of editing software, can achieve excellent results right out of the gate, while seasoned photographers are finding new inspiration in the simplicity and authenticity of this approach.

Camera-made JPEGs are more than just a convenience; they represent a shift in how to think about photography. Fujifilm has created a system that celebrates the art of getting it right in-camera by leveraging their film heritage with creative customization, which allows users to focus on intentionality. Because of this, many Fujifilm photographers are rediscovering the pure joy of making photographs. The revolution may be quiet, but—as more and more choose this approach—its impact is undeniable.

Pacific Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues

Find Film Simulation Recipes for your Fujifilm cameras in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Full Spectrum Infrared Recipes are now in the Fuji X Weekly App

Red Yucca in the White Sand – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

The Full Spectrum Infrared Film Simulation Recipes are now in the Fuji X Weekly App! If your phone didn’t automatically update to the new version, I recommend manually doing so now (Android, Apple). Because those Recipes are different than those for “normal” (non-infrared) cameras, a lot of little tweaks had to be made to the App in order to display them correctly. It was significantly more work to get these into the Fuji X Weekly App than I had anticipated, but I’m happy they are available there now.

So far, I have published six Full Spectrum Infrared Recipes for Fujifilm cameras: Aerochrome v1, Aerochrome v2, Aerochrome v3, PurpleChrome, Cotton Candy Chrome, and Agfa 400S. These Recipes require a full spectrum X-Trans IV or X-Trans V model. Converting a normal camera to full spectrum is an expensive and invasive procedure from a third-party vendor, such as LifePixelKolari Vision, or Spenser’s Camera (to name a few). Otherwise, the Fujifilm X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”) is a full spectrum camera (is sensitive to light outside the visible gamut) briefly offered by Fujifilm to the general public. As of this writing, I believe that you can still buy the Fujifilm X-T4 ES from B&H, but it requires a phone call or in-person visit, and cannot be ordered from the internet. Additionally, these Recipes require specific filters.

I know that the vast majority of people don’t own a full spectrum camera like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES, but I have seen a growing interest in infrared since I started posting these Recipes last summer. The general rule of thumb was that extensive editing was required—including channel swaps—in order to achieve good infrared results, particularly for color images. Thankfully, with the right filters and camera settings, that’s just not true, and excellent straight-out-of-camera infrared photography can be quite easy. While the number of people who will use these Full Spectrum Recipes will always be small, I do believe it will grow significantly in the coming months and years—I suspect there may be a small infrared resurgence of sorts.

Also, for those who may have missed it, I added several GFX cameras to the Fuji X Weekly App. If you haven’t opened it in the last few days, you’ll likely notice some changes. There are many more improvements in the works, and hopefully those will be ready in the coming months. While the Fuji X Weekly App has come a long ways since it was first released, it will continue to get better and better.

Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm GFX Cameras

One of the first things that I hoped to accomplish after buying a Fujifilm GFX100S II camera last month is to understand how compatible X-series Film Simulation Recipes are with GFX, and what adjustments should be made, if any. I had anticipated this being a fairly easy task, and in a sense it was, but I really struggled with this project.

Fujifilm has made a number of GFX models since February of 2017: GFX50S, GFX50R, GFX100, GFX100S, GFX50S II, GFX100 II, and GFX100S II. There are a few different sensors and processors, and the cameras can be separated into different generations. The GFX50S, GFX50R and GFX50S II share the same sensor, but the GFX50S II falls into a different generation than the original two. The GFX100 and GFX100S share the same sensor, but are different generations. The GFX100 II and GFX100S II share the same sensor, but not the same sensor as the first two 100mp GFX models. It’s a bit of a puzzle. The only GFX camera that I own is the GFX100S II, and I briefly had the opportunity to borrow a GFX50S four years ago. My GFX experience is very limited at this point.

One issue that I found when comparing Recipes captured on X-Trans vs GFX is that the lenses are not the same. Different lenses can produce slightly different results depending on the micro-contrast and coatings. While not a big deal, it would have been preferable to have used the same lens across all the tests; however, even if I could, the focal length wouldn’t be the same. For example, when I adapt my vintage Helios 44-2 lens, the focal length on X-Trans is 87mm while it is 46mm on GFX; aside from that, the Helios is noticeably softer on the GFX. So the comparisons I made were never fully 1:1, unfortunately.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & Helios 44-2 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

I did make a number of comparisons between the photos captured with the GFX100S II and those made on an X-T5 and X-E4, utilizing the same Recipes. The main difference between X-Trans IV and X-Trans V rendering is that blue is a little deeper on X-Trans V with the Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulations—there are some other minor differences, but the blue rendering is the main one. On the GFX100S II, blue behaves more like X-Trans V. The overall rendering is very similar to X-Trans V, but not 100% identical. For example, Grain is scaled differently on GFX. There are several insignificant differences that I noticed upon close side-by-side comparisons, but without carefully studying deep crops, the GFX images look pretty identical to the X-Trans V photos. Except they also don’t.

This is the paradox I discovered: the pictures look so similar when comparing colors, tints, shadows, etc., etc., but there is something that’s clearly different. But what? I couldn’t put my finger on it.

I asked a few people I know who have a GFX camera, and one suggested color fidelity, that the same exact colors just seem more alive (or maybe more lifelike) on GFX. My wife, Amanda, suggested that it’s depth, that it feels like you can step into the GFX photos, while the X-series photos seem a little flat in comparison. This could simply be the depth-of-field or the micro-contrast of the GFX lenses (or both). As I thought about it, I was reminded of the Sigma DP2 Merrill camera I used to own that similarly had a (so-called) “3D pop” to the pictures. High-ISO digital noise looks different on GFX, with splotchy colors that are typical from a Bayer sensor (and not the more film-grain-like noise from X-Trans); however, it’s not particularly obvious, buried in all that resolution. It’s probably a combination of all of those things and more that make the nearly identical colors and contrast appear different in a way that is difficult to describe, but it’s all so subtle that it’s easy to miss and dismiss, so perhaps it doesn’t matter.

Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Kodachrome 64

With that information, I made a decision regarding Film Simulation Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App. I added the GFX100 II and GFX100S II as compatible cameras to all X-Trans V Recipes, as well as X-Trans IV Recipes (excluding those for the X-T3/X-T30) that don’t use Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna or Eterna Bleach Bypass (the same Recipes as the X-T5, for example). Use those Recipes on the GFX100 II and GFX100S II, as they look great. I updated the App yesterday to show those Recipes as compatible with those two cameras. For the other (non-X-T3/X-T30) X-Trans IV Recipes, dropping Color Chrome FX Blue down one spot (Weak instead of Strong, Off instead of Weak) also makes them compatible.

After that, I thought about the other GFX models. Shouldn’t they be in the App, too? Why should they be left out? I don’t own any of those other GFX models, so I dug through the manuals—plus did several Google searches—to try to piece together how they should be categorized in the Fuji X Weekly App. That took a few verified and unverified assumptions. Also, I realized an assumption I made several years back was incorrect.

I categorized GFX100S the same as the newer X-Trans IV cameras; Recipes that are compatible with (for example) the X-T4 are also compatible with the GFX100S. I categorized the GFX100 the same as the X-T3 and X-T30.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f/1.7 – 1970’s Summer

The 50mp GFX cameras are a bit of a problem because shadows are rendered slightly lighter, and a .5 Shadow increase is necessary for those models (the GFX50S and GFX50R don’t have .5 Highlight and Shadow adjustments). A few years ago when I had the GFX50S for a few weeks, I created three Recipes for 50mp GFX. I made an assumption that those Recipes would also be compatible with the GFX100, but I believe that camera has deeper shadow rendering like the other 100mp cameras, so that assumption was incorrect; however, I left it alone in the App. If not for the shadow rendering, X-T3/X-T30 Recipes would be compatible with the GFX50S and GFX50R—you can still use those Recipes, just know that it will look slightly different (try them anyway, you might like the results). The one camera that was left out of the App is the GFX50S II. You can use X-Trans IV Recipes the same as the GFX100S; however, a .5 Shadow adjustment should be made. If a Recipe calls for -1 Shadow, use -0.5 instead, and if a Recipe calls for +2 Shadow, use +2.5 instead.

This isn’t a perfect categorization of the GFX models, but I think it’s good. If I made a mistake in this, please let me know—like I said, my GFX experience is quite limited. For those with GFX cameras, I hope this provides a little clarity as to which Recipes to use. I’m sure that having these cameras in the App will be helpful to some photographers with GFX models, so if you have a GFX camera, open up the Fuji X Weekly App and take a look.

Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f/1.7 – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired

Find Film Simulation Recipes for your Fujifilm cameras in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

See also: 10 Frames in New Mexico — Fujifilm GFX100S II XPan Photographs

Provia Summer — Fujifilm X-Trans IV & X-Trans V FXW App Patron Early-Access Recipe

Evening Palm Fronds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Provia Summer

This Provia Summer Film Simulation Recipe kicks off a new series. Each Recipe in this series will use a different film simulation, beginning with Provia and ending with Sepia. None of them will be modeled after any specific emulsions, but more simply will be aesthetics that I like, that I want to create photographs with. Even though they won’t be mimicking specific films, I do intend for them to have an analog vibe. My goal is to publish a new Recipe in this series every three or four weeks. Lastly, they will each begin as an App Patron Early-Access Recipe.

I never wanted the Early-Access Recipes to be unavailable to non-subscribers for so long. Some have been 18 months or longer, most over a year. My initial idea was that they would be Patron-only for about six months or so, and then be made available to everyone; however, I’ve only reached that goal a few times. This series of Recipes will hopefully clear out the backlog, and the Recipes that some of you have long been waiting for will be available soon.

Golden CVS – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-S20 – Provia Summer – Photo by Jonathan Roesch

Provia Summer is in a similar neighborhood as Bright Summer, Bright Kodak, Eterna Summer, Summer of ’59, 1970’s Summer, and I’m sure a few others. Obviously it’s not exactly like any of them, as it has its own unique aesthetic. This Recipe is warm and colorful, producing images that have a summer-like feel. It’s not the most ideal option for artificial light indoors or nighttime photography, but in the right situations it can be alright for that; for best results, use on a sunny day.

This is an App Patron Early-Access Recipe. If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, you have access to it right now. If not, no worries, as it will eventually be made available to everyone, once it is replaced by a new Early-Access Recipe. With the exception of the X-T3 and X-T30, it is compatible with all fourth and fifth-generation X-Trans cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, and X-M5. It can also be used on the newer GFX models, and I’ve included a few examples of that at that bottom.

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Provia Summer Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4 and X-S20:

Vibrant Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Dying Frond – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Sunlit Window – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Golden Arch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Bright Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Palm Grove – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Tower Window – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-S20 – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Duel Window View – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Welcome to Wellness – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Water Drops – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-S20 – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Faux Beauty – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Dusk Steeple – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Electric Open – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-S20 – Photo by Jonathan Roesch
Red Tree Trunk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Yellow Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-S20 – Photo by Jonathan Roesch

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Provia Summer Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm GFX100S II:

Bougainvillea Trestle – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Broken Palm Bark – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II
Jonathan in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II

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1981 Kodak — Fujifilm X100V (X-Trans IV) Film Simulation Recipe

Vintage Barn – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – 1981 Kodak Recipe

My wife, Amanda, ran across some old family pictures in her mom’s photo box. These prints were made in July of 1981—a date stamped on the back—and printed on Kodak paper. The other technical details are unknown, but most likely they were captured with a cheap point-and-shoot of some sort (possibly even a 110 camera) with Kodacolor II color negative film, which was the most popular amateur emulsion of that era. Due to age and improper storage, the prints are fading, with a pronounced orange (sometimes yellow, sometimes red) cast, and colors overall less vibrant than they once were. The set was mostly personal family pictures, and many of them were scratched and damaged, but I did scan two of the prints, which you’ll find below.

I thought that the aesthetic was interesting, so I began to develop a Film Simulation Recipe inspired by these photographs. It took a couple of days—and a few compromises, as I was unable to match it exactly—but I was able to create a look that mimics the general feel of those old pictures made in 1981 and printed on Kodak paper, which is the reason why I call this Recipe 1981 Kodak.

Scan from print
Scan from print

This 1981 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with all Fujifilm X-Trans IV cameras except the X-T3 and X-T30, which is to say that you can use it on the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. For the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30, ignore Grain size and Color Chrome FX Blue, and use a diffusion filter (such as a 10% or 20% CineBloom) in lieu of Clarity. For X-Trans V, because some film sims render blue more deeply, it will look slightly different, but try it anyway.

Film Simulation: Eterna
Dynamic Range: DR200
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off 
White Balance: Daylight, +7 Red & -7 Blue
Highlight: -0
Shadow: +4
Color: -4
Sharpness: -2

High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -4
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this 1981 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:

Coastal Hills – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Dilapidated Barn – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Rural Rancher – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Tree Fallen on Abandoned Car – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Old Ford – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Classic Grill – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Tree-Covered Road – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Light over Fallen Tree – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Sawed Log – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Cliffs of Pismo – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Ken Rockwell & ’61 Pontiac Tempest – Cayucos, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Old Van – Cayucos, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Classic Rear Fender – Cayucos, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Beach Boys – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Mrs. Peacock – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Guitar Neck – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Drummer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Corner – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Suburban Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Orange Car – Laveen, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Biting Horses – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X100V

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52 Weeks of Photography: Week 4

Pool Palm Pruned – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – PRO Negative 160C

Week 3

I started a new 365 Day photo project, which I’m calling 52 Weeks of Photography, back on Christmas Eve. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time. This is the fourth week, the fourth set of seven images, which means that I’m 1/13th finished. While there’s a long ways to go, it’s crazy that 28 days are already in the books.

The reason why I’m doing this photo-a-day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping this will help with that.

Shadow & Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – PRO Negative 160C

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

This week was a bit up and down. Some days were far more productive than others. With that said, I find myself getting back into the habit of always having a camera on me, making sure to grab one before leaving the house. I used to do that, but kind of fell away from it in 2024.

Below are the fourth set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, January 14th, 2025

Air Dancer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Aerochrome v3

Wednesday, January 15th, 2025

Sunkissed Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & Helios 44-2 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Thursday, January 16th, 2025

We Are Open – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & Helios 44-2 – Nostalgic Film

Friday, January 17th, 2025

I Saw A Saw – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – PRO Negative 160C

Saturday, January 18th, 2025

Backlit Infrared Joy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Aerochrome v3

Sunday, January 19th, 2025

Not Abbey Road – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Aerochrome v3

Monday, January 20th, 2025

Faux Beauty – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + 90mm f/2 – Upcoming Recipe

Week 5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in black:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in silver:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex

Aerochrome v3 — Fujifilm X-T4 ES (Full Spectrum Infrared) Film Simulation Recipe

Red Palm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v3

This is a brand new Aerochrome-like Infrared Recipe. It’s not for “normal” cameras; you must have a full spectrum X-Trans IV or X-Trans V model, which requires an expensive and invasive procedure from a third-party vendor like LifePixelKolari Vision, or Spenser’s Camera (to name a few). Otherwise, the Fujifilm X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”) is a full spectrum camera (is sensitive to light outside the visible gamut) briefly offered by Fujifilm to the general public. As of this writing, I believe that you can still buy the Fujifilm X-T4 ES from B&H, but it requires a phone call or in-person visit, and cannot be ordered from the internet.

Aerochrome v3 sits in-between—and bridges the gap between—Aerochrome v1 and Aerochrome v2; however, it is notably different from both, and even has some surprising commonality to Cotton Candy Chrome upon close inspection. That’s because it uses the Classic Negative film simulation instead of Velvia, which gives it a more pronounced analog feel, but also is more of a negative film look than slide film (real Aerochrome was a slide film). In that sense, this might be viewed as the least accurate version, but it’s also very easy to appreciate the aesthetic of this Aerochrome v3 Recipe, which is just lovely. While v2 is my personal favorite, I think some of you are really going to like this one. Because X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, including Classic Negative, if you have a full spectrum converted X-Trans V camera, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.

Iowa Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v3

Aside from having a full spectrum camera (like the X-T4 ES), this Recipe requires three filters: True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise)Hoya G(XO) Yellow-Green filter and Tiffen Yellow 2 #8 filter. The True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise) filter is simply a QB19 Blue filter and LB18 Green filter combined into one, and can be found on AliExpress. If you choose to use a QB19 and LB18, then you’d have four filters instead of three. I was a little hesitant to buy the Autumnizer (Turquoise) filter (because I had never purchased anything from AliExpress before, and saw mixed reviews regarding the platform), but thankfully the process turned out to be smooth. The Autumnizer is intended for infrared photography, while the Yellow-Green and Yellow filters are for B&W film. I’m not sure if the order matters, but I have the Yellow filter first (closest to the lens), the Autumnizer next, and the Yellow-Green last (furthest from the lens).

Filters: True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise), Hoya G(XO) Yellow-Green & Tiffen Yellow 2 #8
Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: Daylight, +9 Red & +8 Blue
Highlight: -1.5
Shadow: -0.5
Color: +4
Sharpness: -1

High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Aerochrome v3 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T4 ES:

Air Dancer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Four Lamps – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Tree Fingers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Bright Tree, Dark Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Pink Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Hidden Craftsman – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Two Palms in the Suburbs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Little Flag – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Backlit Infrared Joy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Joshua, Indoor Infrared – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Jon, A Cut Above the Rest – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Not Abbey Road – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Brick Staircase & Jeep – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Brick Staircase – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Parking – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Nike Walk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Buckeyes – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Chicken – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Cardinal – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Lonely Chair – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Sunlit Bougainvillea Branch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Desert Bricks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Cool Cat – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Skyjack – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Descending Stairs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Globe – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

10 Frames: Infrared in the Desert — White Sands National Park with Aerochrome v2

Red Yucca in the White Sand – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

A few weeks back, in-between Christmas and New Years, I briefly stopped in White Sands National Park in southern New Mexico for a couple of hours. Since it was the holiday season, the park was very crowded. There were so many cars, and people were everywhere! It was difficult to capture images without someone somewhere in the frame, and it was nearly impossible to find scenes without footprints.

My main objective for this stop was to photograph the White Sands with the Fujifilm GFX100S II at golden hour, with the hope of achieving one or two good XPan pictures. Secondarily, I wanted to create a few images with my Fujifilm X-T4 ES full spectrum infrared camera. I love using this camera, especially for the unusual pictures that it makes. My favorite Film Simulation Recipe for the X-T4 ES is Aerochrome v2, which I’ve used coast-to-coast and many places in-between, so that is what I chose for the White Sands.

The 10 frames in this article were made during about a two hour window in White Sands National Park using my Fujifilm X-T4 ES camera with a Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens and the Aerochrome v2 Recipe. It was partly overcast. Winter probably isn’t the best time to do infrared photography at this location, since much of the vegetation is dormant. Still, I came away with a couple good pictures, so I’m happy. But I know that I need to revisit the White Sands—hopefully next time I can dedicate a little more time to it. In the meantime, I hope that you enjoy these pictures.

Pink Brush – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
Yucca on a Sand Hill – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
Yucca & Brush – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
Yucca at the Top of a Hill – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
Yucca Hanging Over – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
Bush in the Sand – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
Desert Yucca – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
Yucca & Brush – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2
Infrared Yucca – White Sand NP, NM – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Aerochrome v2

See also:
Photographing in Aerochrome
Philadelphia in Aerochrome — Infrared Photography in the City of Brotherly Love

The Curious Case of D-Range Priority Auto

Fujifilm GFX100S II – PRO Negative 160C except with D-Range Priority Auto

Someone pointed out to me that D-Range Priority Auto behaves differently on his Fujifilm X-T5 than he thought it would. I don’t use D-Range Priority Auto all that often, and it’s been awhile since I’ve done any sort of serious testing with it, so I took the opportunity to see what’s going on. I was quite surprised by what I found.

D-Range Priority (abbreviated DR-P) was a feature first found on old Fujifilm EXR models (this was before X-Trans) that utilized pixel-binning, and it worked much different than the current iteration of it. The modern version of DR-P was introduced in 2018 with the X-H1 and X-T3, and is modeled after a feature called Hypertone found on Fujifilm’s Frontier scanners. DR-P is used in lieu of the Dynamic Range (DR) settings and the Tone Curve (Highlight and Shadow).

Like the DR settings, DR-P is ISO dependent. DR-P Weak requires the same minimum ISO as DR200, and DR-P Strong requires the same minimum ISO as DR400. DR-P Auto should work the same as DR-Auto, and seemingly it does, but upon closer review it is significantly divergent. At least it is now. The way it works has evolved over time, largely unnoticed.

Fujifilm GFX100S II – PRO Negative 160C except with D-Range Priority Auto

Someone reported to me awhile back that they couldn’t get their X-T5 to choose DR-P Strong with DR-P Auto selected. With my X-Trans IV models, in DR-P Auto, the camera will almost always choose DR-P Weak, and only DR-P Strong in extreme high-contrast situations, with both bright highlights and deep shadows. The camera will do it, but not very often. I assumed that this person probably just hadn’t encountered the right situation where the camera would choose DR-P Strong. I can see now that my assumption was wrong.

Let’s backtrack a bit. D-Range Priority works a certain way on the X-H1 and X-T3/X-T30 (at least when the X-T30 was released and I tested DR-P on it back then …it might work differently today after firmware updates, I’m not certain). On those cameras, DR-P Auto will choose DR-P Weak most of the time, and DR-P Strong only in extreme situations. DR-P Weak is the same as DR200 with both Highlight and Shadow set to -1. In the set of three very identical images below, captured with a Fujifilm X-H1 this morning, one is DR-P Auto (which chose DR-P Weak), one is in-camera reprocessed as DR-P Weak, and one is in-camera reprocessed as DR200 with Highlight and Shadow both set to -1. They look exactly alike.

Now let’s fast forward a little. DR-P Auto works a little different on my Fujifilm X100V and X-E4, but not exactly as I remember it working, or as I expected it to. I’m not certain if the way it works changed after some firmware update, or if my memory of it is incorrect (it could go either way). Let’s take a look at a photograph that I captured today on my X-E4 using DR-P Auto, which chose DR-P Strong. I then reprocessed the image in-camera.

Fujifilm X-E4 as shot in DR-P Auto, which selected DR-P Strong
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR-P Strong—surprisingly, it’s not the same.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR-P Weak; it’s getting closer, but not identical.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR200 + Highlight & Shadow set to -1; it’s divergent from all of the above images.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR400 + Highlight & Shadow set to -2. This is identical to the as-shot photograph.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR200 + Highlight & Shadow set to -2. This is identical to the reprocessed DR-P Weak image.

On the X-H1, DR-P Auto is more straightforward than on the X-E4; on the X-E4, it did not behave as I expected it to. While I could get it to choose DR-P Strong, it didn’t actually create a DR-P Strong image, or even a DR-P Weak image; instead, it created an image identical to DR400 with Highlight and Shadow set to -2 (“DR-P Medium”?). DR-P Weak is the same as DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -2; however, on the X-H1, DR-P Weak is identical to DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -1. Clear as mud?

Now let’s look at the newer cameras. On X-Trans V, as well as the latest GFX, it works even differently. Check out this set of photographs:

Fujifilm GFX100S II as shot in DR-P Auto, which selected DR-P Weak
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR200 + Highlight & Shadow set to -1. It’s identical to the above photograph.
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR-P Weak.

As you can see, the camera is not using DR-P Weak when in DR-P Auto. Like the X-H1, it is using DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -1; however, unlike the X-H1, DR-P Weak is not the same as DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -1. On the newer models, DR-P Auto is actually “DR-P Extra Weak” (if such a setting existed, which incidentally is the same as DR-P Weak on the X-H1). DR-P Weak is actually more like DR200 with Highlight set to -2 and Shadow set to -3 (if such a setting existed—in other words, it can’t really be replicated). Also, no matter how hard I tried, I could not get my X-T5 or GFX100S II cameras to choose DR-P Strong when in DR-P Auto; only DR-P Weak (except that the picture is “DR-P Extra Weak” instead of DR-P Weak).

Fujifilm GFX100S II shot with DR-P Strong and in-camera reprocessed to DR-P Weak
Same image, except reprocessed in-camera using DR400 + Highlight & Shadow set to -2. This is the closest I could get the shadows, but the highlights are divergent.

So what is the practical application of this? Since we know on the newer models—X-Trans V and the latest GFX—that the picture you get using DR-P Auto is the same as DR200 with Highlight and Shadow set to -1, you can replace any Film Simulation Recipe that calls for those settings (such as PRO Negative 160C) with DR-P Auto. There isn’t necessarily a practical advantage to doing that, except if you accidentally overexpose the frame, you can recover it by reprocessing the file in-camera with DR-P Weak. Below is an example of that:

Fujifilm GFX100S II as shot in DR-P Auto, overexposed
Same image, simply reprocessed in-camera with DR-P Weak with no other adjustments

I’m not really sure how to conclude this other than to say that D-Range Priority Auto works differently depending on what generation of camera you have. DR-P Weak and DR-P Strong are also a little divergent. I reached out to Anders Lindborg to ask his opinion and see if he had any insights on DR-P Auto, since he’s researched this topic pretty extensively. “The answer is actually in the manual,” he told me. “It says, ‘When an option other than Off is selected, Highlight Tone, Shadow Tone, and Dynamic Range will be adjusted automatically.'” On the newest models, that means Highlight and Shadow both set to -1 and Dynamic Range set to DR200 …and nothing else, unless you reprocess as DR-P Weak. Unfortunately, if you want to shoot with DR-P Weak or DR-P Strong straight-out-of-camera, then don’t use DR-P Auto. I suppose you could look at this way: DR-P Auto is actually DR-P Weak, DR-P Weak is actually DR-P Medium, and DR-P Strong is still DR-P Strong. I hope this somehow clears things up for those confused by it.

Below are a few pictures I created in preparation for this article, using my Fujifilm GFX100S II with the PRO Negative 160C Recipe (except for DR-P Auto in lieu of the DR and Tone Curve settings).

Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7
Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7
Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 3

Moon Palms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Kodachrome 64

Week 2

I started a new 365 Day photo project, which I’m calling 52 Weeks of Photography, back on Christmas Eve. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m doing it one week at a time. This is the third week, the third set of seven images. I’m pretty excited to do this, and hope you appreciate following along on this journey.

The reason why I’m doing this photo-a-day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images over the last year. I haven’t been picking up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping this will help with that.

Dry Leaves in the Green Grass – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Reala Ace

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

I used my Fujifilm X-T4 ES full spectrum infrared camera a lot during this seven day period. IR photography is a ton of fun, so I grab the X-T4 ES frequently. Unfortunately, that only delays other projects that I’m working on, so I need to be a little more deliberate about the gear I’m choosing, and do a better job at spreading the love between my various cameras.

Below are the second set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, January 7th, 2025

Dogs out a Truck Window – Laveen, AZ- Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Agfa 400S

Wednesday, January 8th, 2025

Bicycles on a Dirt Road – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Velvia Film

Thursday, January 9th, 2025

Golden Hills – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Velvia Film

Friday, January 10th, 2025

Sun Through Yellow Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Aerochrome v2

Saturday, January 11th, 2025

Red Tree Canopy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Aerochrome v2

Sunday, January 12th, 2025

Sunday Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + 27mm f/2.8 – Fujicolor Natura 1600

Monday, January 13th, 2025

Iowa Water– Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES + 35mm f/2 – Upcoming IR Recipe

Week 4

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in black:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in silver:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8:
AmazonB&HMomentWex

Godox iM30 Flash

Godox sent me their new iM30 flash to try. I have a number of Godox flashes, including the Lux Junior, Lux Cadet, and Lux Master. Of those, the Lux Master is the most capable, but also the largest and heaviest. The Lux Cadet has a cool retro look, but I like the Lux Junior the most because it is smaller, and a tend to prefer compact gear. The iM30 is significantly smaller than the Lux Junior, so is it an ideal flash to pair with compact Fujifilm X-series gear, like my Fujifilm X-E4? Let’s find out.

Surprisingly, the Godox iM30 uses two AAA batteries. In one sense this is good, because you can easily carry a spare pair of AAA batteries, and if not, they are easy to find. You could also get yourself some rechargeable batteries and a charger. Personally, I would have preferred an internal rechargeable battery with a USB charging port. I’m not sure how many flashes you can get from a pair of copper-tops because I’m still on the original two after about 50 activations, and I have no idea if the batteries have a lot of life left or if they’re nearly depleted; however, Godox suggests that you can get about 230 flashes, so I might have a long ways to go.

Without a doubt, I can say that the iM30 is for those who want a compact flash. It is 2″ deep, 2.4″ wide, and 1.8″ tall (including the hotshoe mount). It weighs only 0.17 pounds without batteries, and 0.23 pounds with the batteries. It’s not the smallest flash I’ve ever used, but it is certainly one of the smallest. It looks great on cameras like the Fujifilm X-E4. Recycle time is just under four seconds.

The oddity of this flash is that it is cheap, so you might think that it is for beginners, but that is not true. While it is fairly simple, beginners might find it challenging, and perhaps even frustrating. You have to have some prior experience with flashes to use the iM30 effectively (or this might be your opportunity to learn). Also, the lowest setting, which is designated as 1/64, is sometimes too strong, and I wish that there was a lower power option.

My Fujifilm X-E4 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 + Godox iM30 & Lux Master – Pacific Blues

For only $35 on Amazon, the Godox iM30 offers cheap thrills. There’s a lot of fun that you can have with it. For instance, it can be used as a secondary flash triggered by a primary flash. While you can’t use colored gels with the iM30 (without tape, anyway), you can shoot through a color correction or B&W film filter. That’s what I did for the above photo. I had a Godox Lux Master attached to the camera (and set to its lowest power), and the iM30 off to the side with a Tiffen 47B filter placed in front of the flash, giving a splash of blue to the otherwise warm scene. Is it ideal for that purpose? No, but it certainly can be done, and without spending a lot of money.

If you want a compact flash and have experience with flashes, and also don’t want to spend much money, the Godox iM30 is for you. It can be a lot of fun, and the opportunity to use it creatively is certainly there. It’s not my favorite Godox flash, but I can see bringing it on trips simply because it doesn’t take up much space in the bag. I do plan to use it in the coming months, but I don’t anticipate it being a tool that I reach for frequently.

Example photos, all camera-made JPEGs captured using the Godox iM30 flash on my Fujifilm cameras:

Backyard Boy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI + Godox iM30 – Nostalgic Americana
Loves Her Dress – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Godox iM30 (w/Hoya G(XO) Yellow-Green filter) – Nostalgia Color
Jump Over It – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI + Godox iM30 – Kodak Max 800
Distracted – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Godox iM30 (w/Tiffen 47B filter) – Redscale
Jon, at Night – Tonopah, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Godox iM30 – Classic Color
Slow Shutter Portrait – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 + Godox iM30 – Color Negative 400

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Infrared Photography on Fujifilm Full Spectrum Cameras

Did you know that you can photograph invisible light? Full spectrum infrared cameras can see beyond what you and I can perceive with our eyes, providing a unique way to view the world.

Lightwaves within the visible spectrum are between about 380-780 nanometers, but there is light outside of what the human eyes can see. On one end is Infrared, also called Thermal Radiation, which is from 780nm to 1 millimeter (700nm to 780nm is sometimes referred to as near-IR). On the other side is Ultra Violet, which is from 380nm to 10nm. Camera sensors are sensitive to these lightwaves, so manufacturers place a filter over the sensor to block the invisible light. If not for this filter, your pictures would look abnormal compared to what your eyes see. Full spectrum cameras don’t have this filter, and are sensitive to the full range of lightwaves.

Above: Full spectrum images without filters, photographed on a Fujifilm X-T4 ES.

Fujifilm has made several full spectrum cameras. First was the S3 Pro UVIR in 2006, followed by the IS-1 (infrared version of the FinePix S9100) in 2007, then X-T1 IR in 2015, then GFX100 IR in 2020, and finally the X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”) in 2024. Typically, Fujifilm does not offer these models to the general public; instead, they are strictly only for “forensic, scientific, and cultural preservation applications.” The X-T4 ES is the first full spectrum model that Fujifilm has sold to the general public, albeit quite quietly. As of this writing, I believe that the only place you can buy the Fujifilm X-T4 ES is from B&H, but it requires a phone call or in-person visit, and cannot be ordered from the internet. If that changes, I’ll be sure to let you know.

For those unable to buy a Fujifilm X-T4 ES (which is a standard X-T4 just without the infrared/UV filter over the sensor), you can convert any Fujifilm camera to full spectrum. It requires an expensive and invasive procedure from a third-party vendor like LifePixelKolari Vision, or Spenser’s Camera (there are others, too). Sometimes you can find an already converted camera for sell. You can also get a specific infrared filter over the sensor in place of the removed filter, but that is a much more limiting approach than a full spectrum conversion, and you have to know that you’ll be happy with your filter choice before committing to it, or else you might find yourself regretting your decision. The easiest option—if you can find it, which might be a big if—is the X-T4 ES. I hope that Fujifilm makes this model (or something similar) more easily available to purchase.

One consideration for full spectrum cameras is the lens. Many lenses suffer from IR hotspots, and can perform less than optimally when used with a full spectrum camera. Many lenses are good wide-open at maximum aperture, but as you stop down the hotspot appears. The Fujinon 35mm f/2 is good at all apertures, and that is the one that I most commonly use with the X-T4 ES. There are several databases (here, here, here) for which lenses are good for full spectrum cameras, and which ones to avoid.

Another consideration is filters. You don’t need a filter to use your full spectrum camera, but you can use various filters, such as the Kolari Vision IR Chrome, to control the wavelengths of light that hit the sensor. You can achieve many various looks by the filters you use in conjunction with the camera settings, including film simulation and white balance. These filter and camera setting combinations are called Full Spectrum Film Simulation Recipes, which allows you to achieve striking photos without editing. As of this writing, I have published five Recipes: Aerochrome v1, Aerochrome v2, PurpleChrome, Cotton Candy Chrome, and Agfa 400S. More are in the works, so stay tuned for that.

Clockwise, from top-left: Aerochrome v1, Aerochrome v2, PurpleChrome, Cotton Candy Chrome, Agfa 400S.

Capturing the invisible light spectrum is extremely fun and rewarding because it transforms an ordinary scene into something truly extraordinary. The world becomes a fanciful place filled with unexpected colors. It’s like a crazy dream, except that it’s real, if only you could see it—full spectrum cameras allow you to peel back the curtain and take a peek.

Interestingly, you can actually do infrared photography with non-converted Fujifilm cameras, because the X-Trans sensors are sensitive to near-IR light. My Full Spectrum Film Simulation Recipes won’t work, because those require a full spectrum camera like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES, but nonetheless you can still do IR photography with a 720nm IR filter (which blocks most visible light) on a regular, non-converted model. It’s fun to try! Since most of the light is blocked, you will be using high-ISOs and/or longer exposure times. If you do this, be warned: you might get bit by the IR bug, and find yourself converting a camera, or searching out an X-T4 ES.

Above: B&W IR photo from a non-converted Fujifilm X-E4 & 720nm filter.

See also:
Photographing in Aerochrome
Philadelphia in Aerochrome — Infrared Photography in the City of Brotherly Love

Some Thoughts on Leading Lines

Bicycles on a Dirt Road – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Velvia Film

My 15-year-old son, Jonathan, has shown a strong interest in photography for a few years now, so for Christmas my wife and I got him a camera. He just began a high school photography class this semester. Jon told me that one of the first lessons was on composition, including leading lines.

A couple days ago, Jon and I were walking down a dirt road out in the desert with our cameras, so I took the opportunity to talk with him about leading lines. I told him that lines are great for taking the viewer on a journey through the picture. Lines that come from the corners (or near the corners) tend to lead into the frame, while lines that are from the edges (top-middle, bottom-middle, left-middle or right-middle) tend to lead the viewer’s eyes out of the frame. Leading lines are great, but they must lead to something to be effective; leading lines that lead to nothing are disappointing and boring.

Desert Road – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Agfa 400S

I pointed out the road that we were walking on, showing that the sides of the road, or even the tire tracks in the dirt, are lines. They can be used to take the viewer from the bottom corners into the middle of the frame somewhere. But you have to think about what the viewers are going to find when they get to the end, as there should be something for them to discover.

In the Desert Road image above, the lines take the viewer from the bottom of the frame to the base of the darker mountain in the middle-left of the picture, then up the ridge of the closer hill towards the top-right; your eyes might follow the ridge of the distant hill to the left, or they might leave the frame altogether. It would have been more interesting if a hiker, bicyclist, car, coyote, etc., were at the end of the road just before it disappears around the corner. Or a brightly lit saguaro partway up the closer ridge contrasted with the shadow behind. The image itself is ok, but if the viewer had found a surprise element on their journey through the picture, it would have been much more compelling.

Sunset Bicyclists – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-S20 – Kodak Negative – Photo by Jonathan Roesch

As we were heading back to the car to go home because the sun had dipped below the ridge, we came across a row of drainage pipes that I suppose will someday serve a purpose. I told him that those could be used as leading lines, too. I noted that there was a dark spot in the road at the end of the pipes, and told him that if only there was something there in that spot, it could make for an interesting picture.

We hadn’t seen another person the entire time, so I didn’t expect anything interesting to happen, but then two bicyclists showed up. I told Jon to wait, that this was a fortuitous opportunity, and be ready to compose his picture. We waved to the two men as they pedaled by, then we set up our shots.

Jon Composing His Shot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Film

My picture is Bicycles on a Dirt Road at the very top, and Jon’s is Sunset Bicyclists two images above. I used the pipes to take the viewer from the bottom-right to the bicyclists at the middle-left. Jon used the lines in the dirt road to lead to the bicyclists, and the pipes served as a secondary element. Even though we photographed the same thing at the same time while standing next to each other, our pictures are much different. Two photographers will rarely see the same scene exactly the same way, because each person has different experiences, emotions, perspectives, etc., to form and execute their visions.

There are a several quick takeaways from this article. First, look for and use lines to thoughtfully direct viewers through your photographs, and try to give them a little surprise if you can. Second, your photographs are your unique voice, and as such are meaningful and important; however, you want to communicate your voice as strongly as possible with each shutter click—it takes much practice to develop strong photographic communication. Next, good pictures often involve some level of luck, but you can greatly increase your chances by being out with your camera—luck has a way of finding you if you give it the opportunity. Finally, if you are a straight-out-of-camera photographer, choose the most appropriate Film Simulation Recipe for how you want the scene to look. It takes some level of experience (oftentimes, trial-and-error) to figure that out, and each person has their own tastes and styles, so what works for one might not for another. I chose Velvia Film (one of the Film Dial Recipes… I use this approach even without the dial) because I wanted a bright and vibrant picture; Jon chose Kodak Negative because he wanted a warm retro aesthetic.

Agfa 400S — Fujifilm X-T4 ES (Full Spectrum Infrared) Film Simulation Recipe

Monochrome Founders – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Agfa 400S

This is my first B&W Film Simulation Recipe for Fujifilm full spectrum cameras, like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”). It’s not for “normal” cameras; you must have a full spectrum X-Trans IV or X-Trans V model, which requires an expensive and invasive procedure from a third-party vendor like LifePixelKolari Vision, or Spenser’s Camera. Otherwise, the Fujifilm X-T4 ES is a full spectrum camera (is sensitive to light outside the visible gamut) briefly offered by Fujifilm to the general public. As of this writing, I believe that you can still buy the Fujifilm X-T4 ES from B&H, but it requires a phone call or stopping by in-person, and cannot be order from the internet.

The reason why it took me so long to publish a B&W Recipe for full spectrum IR cameras is because I had trouble creating one that I was fully satisfied with. I experimented with many different filters and settings, but just couldn’t find the right combination that produced the results that I desired. Initially, this was another one of those failed experiments, until I added a third filter (QB2), and instantly fell in love with the aesthetic that this Recipe creates.

Water in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Agfa 400S

The emulsion that this Recipe is most reminiscent of is Agfa AviPhot 400S, which is also sold under Rollei Retro 400S, Rollei 400 IR, Japan Camera Hunter Street Pan 400, Astrum Foto 400, and Svema Foto 400. This film was made for aerial surveillance—hence: AviPhot, which is short for “Aviation Photography”, and “S” for surveillance—and is both infrared and UV sensitive, although only a little. In order to get good IR results, the film requires a 720nm filter and adding two or three stops to the exposure.

This Agfa 400S Film Simulation Recipe doesn’t use a 720nm filter; instead, it requires three filters: Kolari Vision IR Chrome, Tiffen Deep Yellow 15, and QB2 blue. The QB2 was given to me and I have no idea what brand it is, but here are some that I found online: JTSFPMPNantongShanghai LongwayTangsinuo. This is a fairly uncommon filter (that’s why none of the name brands make it), but it is used by some in the IR world (my Cotton Candy Chrome Recipe also uses the QB2 filter). I’m not sure if the order matters, but I have the Deep Yellow filter first (closest to the lens), the IR Chrome next, and the QB2 last (furthest from the lens).

Tree in Grey – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – Agfa 400S

While this Recipe was designed on and intended for the Fujifilm X-T4 ES camera, it should be fully compatible with any full spectrum converted X-Trans IV (except the X-T3 and X-T30) and X-Trans V models. For a grainier look, use higher ISOs, such as 6400 and 12800 (Water in the Desert is an ISO 12800 image). For a cleaner look, use lower ISOs.

Filters: Tiffen Deep Yellow 15, Kolari Vision IR Chrome, & QB2 Blue
Film Simulation: Acros+R
Monochromatic Color: WC 0 MG 0 (Off)
Dynamic Range: DR200
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: 2500K, +9 Red & -2 Blue
Highlight: +4
Shadow: +4
Sharpness: -1

High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 12800
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Agfa 400S Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T4 ES:

Sunlit Jon – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Sunglasses – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Flower Girl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Photographer Jon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Hand in Hand – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Dogs out a Truck Window – Laveen, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Dramatic Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Lamp Post – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Second Floor Windows – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Neighborhood Eucalyptus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
White Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Grey Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
17th Green – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Closed Umbrella in Monochrome – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Second Floor – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Sunlit Stucco – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Empty Cart – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Shade – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Coffee Work – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Open Umbrellas – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
White Bougainvillea 1 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
White Bougainvillea 2 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Palm Fronds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
V Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Evening Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Tis but a Scratch– Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Desert Road – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Last Light on the Peaks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Trees & Flare – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES
Saguaro Fingers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

See also: Full Spectrum Recipes

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 2

Water in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES + 35mm f/2 – Upcoming IR Recipe

Introduction & Week 1

I started a new 365 Day photo project, which I’m calling 52 Weeks of Photography, back on Christmas Eve. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m doing it one week at a time. This is the second week—the second set of seven images. I’m pretty excited to do this, and hope you appreciate following along on this journey.

The reason why I’m doing this photo-a-day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images over the last year. I haven’t been picking up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping this will help with that.

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

Below are the second set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, December 31th, 2024

Raspberry Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES & 35mm f/2 – Aerochrome v2

Wednesday, January 1st, 2025

Window Ladder – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 + Pentax-110 50mm f/2.8 – Pacific Blues

Thursday, January 2nd, 2025

Backyard Boy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI + Flash – Nostalgic Americana

Friday, January 3rd, 2025

Unfair Comparisons – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f/1.7 – Astia Summer

Saturday, January 4th, 2025

Office Space – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 + 56mm f/1.2 + Flash – Pacific Blues

Sunday, January 5th, 2025

Sunglasses – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES + 35mm f/2 – Upcoming IR Recipe

Monday, January 6th, 2025

Tis but a Scratch– Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES + 35mm f/2 – Upcoming IR Recipe

Week 3

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm GFX100S II:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
AmazonB&HWex
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
AmazonB&HWexNuzira
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in black:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 35mm f/2 in silver:
AmazonB&HMoment, Wex, Nuzira

Now, You Probably Don’t Need A Permit to Film in a National Park (Yea!!)

Young Yucca – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

A year ago, I published an article entitled My Experience Obtaining a Permit to Film in a National Park (you probably need one, too), which detailed my ordeal getting a permit to film a YouTube video at the Grand Canyon National Park. It was my first time going through the process, and I found it to be unnecessarily arduous and frustrating. The article got some attention, and I was even interviewed by the press regarding this topic.

The good news is that you probably no longer need a permit to film in a National Park, unless you are an actual production crew or are doing something that requires special permission. Just this last weekend, the President signed into law the Explore Act, which allows most people to freely film within the National Park Service. Essentially, the Explore Act allows photography and filming without a permit for parties of five or fewer people as long as it involves allowed activity in a National Park, regardless of whether those documenting are receiving compensation for their work.

Cold Rim, Warm Light – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Vision3 250D v2

Because my small YouTube channel was monetized, a year ago I needed a permit, even if the video I made didn’t earn hardly anything (and cost way more to make than it earned). Even the potential of one penny of Adsense revenue meant I was a for-profit film production crew, and as a for-profit film production crew a permit was required to film, even if I were merely recording on my cellphone or a GoPro. Today, that’s not the case at all. As long as you have five or less people and you’re doing normal things that tourists are allowed to do, you can film, and can skip the permit process. This is definitely a win for small creators.

I understand why not everyone is celebrating. The National Park Service has two equal missions that oppose each other: conservation and access. They have to preserve the land, and they have to open the land to visitors. To best conserve requires closing the gate to visitors, and to best allow access greatly risks conservation. They have to walk a fine line, which is not easy to do, and not everyone will be happy. The law—as it was on Friday prior to the Explore Act—leaned more towards conservation (even if awkwardly and ineffectively), and now, as of Saturday, it leans more towards access. There are some who prefer preservation over people. I get it, and am sympathetic towards that; however, I believe that this was the right thing to do, and I’m quite happy to see this new law on the books.

Fujifilm Grain Comparison: GFX100S II vs. X-T5

Unfair Comparisons – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Astia Summer

I’m planning to do a number of comparison tests between the JPEGs from the Fujifilm GFX100S II and my X-series models, like the Fujifilm X-T5. What’s different? What’s the same? I haven’t come to very many conclusions yet. There’s clearly a difference, but it seems so subtle it is tough to put a finger on what exactly is divergent.

For this article, I’m comparing the faux Grain between the GFX100S II and the X-T5. This isn’t a carefully controlled scientific test. When my wife (on the X-T5) and I (on the GFX100S II) captured these images, we did not intend for them to be used in any sort of comparison test. I chose these because they were made in the same location (White Sands National Park in New Mexico). They were captured with the new Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired Recipe, and reprocessed in-camera with the Astia Summer Recipe. I chose those two Recipes because of their Grain: Weak/Small and Strong/Large.

Fujifilm X-T5 – Astia Summer – Grain Weak/Small
Fujifilm GFX100S II – Astia Summer – Grain Weak/Small
Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired – Grain Strong/Large
Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired – Grain Strong/Large

You cannot tell much at all from the above photos. From examining the pictures more closely, I can state that the size of the faux grain is a little larger in the X-T5 JPEGs than the GFX100S II, but you can’t really tell without cropping in. So let’s crop in!

In the first set (identified simply by “Crop”), I’ve made the pictures roughly the same size. If you look carefully, the Weak/Small Grain is slightly more visible in the X-T5 pictures, but it’s not overtly obvious. In the second set (identified by “Bigger Crop”), I’ve tried to match the Grain, and I had to crop much more deeply on the GFX100S II pictures to do so. These are significant crops, and you’d have to print large to view them this big. I think if a Grain size Medium existed on GFX, that would more closely match Grain size Small on the X-series.

Crop – Fujifilm X-T5 – Astia Summer – Grain Weak/Small
Crop – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Astia Summer – Grain Weak/Small
Bigger Crop – Fujifilm X-T5 – Astia Summer – Grain Weak/Small
Bigger Crop – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Astia Summer – Grain Weak/Small

Below is a repeat, except for with Strong/Large Grain. I think if a Grain size Medium existed on the X-T5, it would more closely match Grain size Large on the GFX100S II.

Crop – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired – Grain Strong/Large
Crop – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired – Grain Strong/Large
Bigger Crop – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired – Grain Strong/Large
Bigger Crop – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired – Grain Strong/Large

I don’t know that it makes any practical real-world difference, but the size of the Grain—whether Small or Large—is not identical on GFX as it is on X-series cameras. It’s not scaled the same. It’s smaller on GFX and larger on X-series, specifically when comparing the 100mp images from the GFX100S II to the 40mp images from the X-T5. There are also likely variances between the 26mp APS-C sensor and the 50mp GFX sensor.

The way to look at this, I suppose, is that film grain appears more fine on medium-format film than 35mm. The difference in silver grain between—say—120 film and Advanced Photo System Type-C film is much, much more significant than the difference in Grain between GFX and X. I think you’d expect the Grain to be more “fine” on GFX—and that’s what you find—but it isn’t nearly as much of a difference as with actual film.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm GFX100S II:
AmazonB&HWex