February | 2025 | FUJI X WEEKLY

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 9

*Ready to Fly* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 & 90mm f/2 – Fujicolor 100 Gold

This is a one-year photo-a-day project called 52 Weeks of Photography. Even though it is a year-long undertaking, I’m taking it one week at a time, because it’s a little easier to manage many small blocks than one large chunk. This is the ninth week, so the ninth set of seven images.

The reason why I’m doing this 365 Day project is because I noticed some gaps in-between my images last year. I didn’t pick up my cameras daily. On several occasions, four or five days passed by without a single picture created. Twice in 2024, I skipped a whole week. I want to rectify this, and get back into the habit of daily photography. I also want to elevate the quality of my craft in 2025, and am hoping that this will help.

*Mill* – Queen Creek, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

The plan is to capture a year’s worth of notable images, either personally or artistically. Ansel Adams famously stated, “Twelve significant photographs in any one year is a good crop.” It’s important to keep expectations realistic, but I’m also trying to avoid thoughtless snapshots just to fulfill the day’s requirement. I want to push myself to be better, and hopefully that will happen. Not every photo will be great—in fact, most won’t—but I hope they are all at least decent enough to be shared without embarrassment.

I have some big projects in the works, and made good progress on them during this week. I can’t wait to share them with you! In the meantime, there are a lot of “Upcoming Recipe” placeholders. I hope you don’t mind.

Below are the ninth set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, February 18th, 2025

*Curved* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Wednesday, February 19th, 2025

*Potted Dolly* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Thursday, February 20th, 2025

*Stumped* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Friday, February 21st, 2025

*Creek* at Dusk – Queen Creek, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Saturday, February 22nd, 2025

*Minecraft Glow* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgic Film

Sunday, February 23rd, 2025

*Golden Hour Leaves* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 & 90mm f/2 – Kodak Portra 400 v2

Monday, February 24th, 2025

*Spring Seeds* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Week 10

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

Is $5,000 a Bargain or Bust?

Posted on February 26 by Ritchie Roesch

Purportedly, Fujifilm is about to shake up the medium-format world with their upcoming 100mp fixed-lens GFX camera: GFX100RF. This upcoming model, rumored to be priced around $5,000, will feature a high resolution 100mp sensor paired with a fixed 35mm f/4 lens (28mm full-frame-equivalent, or 18.5mm APS-C-equivalent). Apparently, it will be about the same size as an X-Pro model. While this might sound like a dream camera for some, others may wonder whether it’s actually a good value—will it even be worthwhile at that price point. Let’s talk about this.

I want to start with this disclaimer: I don’t have any inside information on the upcoming camera. Fujifilm hasn’t shared anything about it with me, not even if there is a camera forthcoming, or if any camera is forthcoming. I only know as much as the next person, and what I do know I read on Fujirumors. Patrick has a pretty solid track record, so there’s a good chance that everything he has shared about the camera is correct, but until it is announced by Fujifilm, nothing can be known with 100% certainty. In other words, anytime that we’re discussing rumors, it should be taken with a grain of salt. We will all know everything when it is announced in March, and, until then, it’s only speculation.

Some might see the upcoming Fujifilm GFX100RF camera as a fantastic value. Not all that long ago, a digital medium-format camera would set you back at least $10,000, if not $30,000 or even $60,000. When Pentax released the 50mp 645Z in 2014 at “only” $8,500, it shocked the camera world because it seemed to be impossibly inexpensive for what it was. Beginning in 2017, Fujifilm basically took things a step further, and in the process became the leader in medium-format, by offering the GFX50S and GFX50R for $6,500 and $4,500 respectively. Since then, prices have continued to come down while the capabilities of these cameras have increased.

*Balloons* – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

The Fujifilm GFX100S II has an MSRP of $5,000. It has the same sensor and processor as the upcoming GFX100RF. A couple advantages of the GFX100S II are that it is an interchangeable-lens model, and it has IBIS; some disadvantages are that it is much bigger/heavier, it requires the purchase of a lens, and it is PASM (not the traditional Fujifilm tactile controls). Essentially, you exchange IBIS for a lens, and get a retro-styled body about the size of an X-Pro3. The most similar lenses in the GF lineup are the 30mm f/3.5 (closest focal-length) and 50mm f/3.5 (closest size), which cost $1,700 and $1,000 respectively. An argument can be made that the GFX100RF is an excellent value at “only” $5,000, considering that the lens is included.

The big advantage of the upcoming camera is, of course, size and weight, and the retro design. My speculation is that it will be the thinest ever digital medium-format body/lens combination, and maybe even the “smallest” (depending on exactly how one defines that). Comparisons will be made to the Hasselblad 907X (plus CFV 100C back) with the 45mm f/4 or 28mm f/4 lens, which is much more expensive at over $9,000 (interestingly, the Hasselblad does not have IBIS, and we’re talking about f/4 lenses…).

I think a lot of the complaints circling the internet about the upcoming GFX100RF are from those who were unlikely to buy the camera in the first place. There was always going to be an excuse. It doesn’t have IBIS. The maximum aperture is too small. It has a fixed lens. The cost is too much. If only the engineers had pulled off miracle after miracle after miracle, then they would purchase. But since the designers were limited to things like reality, what a stupid camera that nobody will buy! Of course, I disagree with that completely.

*Oak Creek* – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgia Negative

The lack of IBIS will deter some, no doubt. There’s a myth that more megapixels make camera shake more noticeable, but that’s simply not true. A blurry picture is blurry no matter the resolution, and a sharp picture is sharp no matter the resolution. The same rules for achieving sharp photos apply exactly the same to 10mp as 100mp. But that doesn’t mean IBIS isn’t a useful feature that’s worthwhile to have. Some see it as essential, and the lack of it on the GFX100RF will prevent them from purchasing; however, I don’t see this as a big issue for most potential buyers.

Also, the f/4 lens is not especially exciting. This maximum aperture is not uncommon on GFX lenses, and produces a depth-of-field similar to f/2 on APS-C. People looking at it from an APS-C or full-frame perspective might find it shocking, but those in the medium-format world will see it as pretty normal, similar to how f/2 is common for the X-series.

The proper take, in my opinion, is that this camera isn’t for everyone, or even for most. The GFX system as a whole is not for everyone, or even for most. The vast majority of photographers don’t need a GFX camera. Some do, and it is available for them. Some don’t, yet enjoy the system anyway. For the majority, the X-system is a better option, in terms of value, enjoyment, size, and even capabilities. It’s not “trash” or “dumb” just because you personally don’t need it, or because it doesn’t have all of the specs that you wished it would, or because it is priced above what you can reasonably pay for a new camera. I think it’s ok to say, “That camera will be nice, but it’s not for me.”

*Fire, Truck* – Lordburg, NM – Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f/1.7 – 1970’s Summer

So, then, who will the GFX100RF be for? First, it will be compelling for those who want a compact and lightweight medium-format camera. The size/weight aspect alone will make it desirable. This camera will be great for roadtrips and exploring, something that the other GFX models are not especially ideal for. I suspect that a significant group of GFX owners will buy it as a second camera for this purpose. Second, it will be for those who prefer retro styling and traditional tactile controls. The only other retro GFX camera is the 50R, which is long-discontinued and approaching seven-years-old. While that camera was considered a bit of a sales flop, it has since gained a cult-like following. Retro for Fujifilm isn’t just about trendy styling, it’s about functionality and fun. Third, it will be seen by some as the long-overdue and long-hoped-for successor to the Fujifilm X70, which has grown in popularity over the last several years. The upcoming camera is certainly not a direct followup to the X70, but I think there are enough similarities that some will see it as a spiritual successor nonetheless. Fourth, it will be seen as a larger-sensor X100-like camera, so some of the hype of the X100VI will carry over to the GFX100RF. Fifth, it will serve as a gateway into GFX. The X100-series has been a lot of people’s introduction to Fujifilm; likewise, the GFX100RF will be some people’s first GFX camera. This is because it’s an all-in-one model, and no further investment is needed to get started. It’s a way to dip your toes into the pool before deciding if you want to jump all the way in. Between those five groups, I suspect that sales will be strong, but only time will tell just how well it does.

I really hope for conversion lenses—both wide and telephoto—like the X100-series has. I highly doubt that the WCL-X100 and TCL-X100 will work on it (although it would blow my mind if they somehow did), but something similar should be made for the GFX100RF. A 0.9x wide-converter (25mm full-frame-equivalent, or 16.5mm APS-C-equivalent) or 0.8x wide-converter (22mm full-frame-equivalent, or 14.5mm APS-C-equivalent), and a 1.4x teleconverter (39mm full-frame-equivalent, 26mm APS-C-equivalent), would make the camera much more compelling. If these two conversion lenses were $500 or less each, and a compact three-lens “system” was possible for only $6,000, that would make it seem like a better bargain.

While some are suggesting that the price will cause the upcoming Fujifilm GFX100RF to be a bust, I really don’t think that will be the case; however, GFX is a niche line, and sales figures will never approach that of the X-series. It won’t sell nearly as many copies as the X100VI, or X-M5, or X-T5, etc.. But will it prove to be profitable? I’m pretty confident that it will. And if it is, I’m hopeful that it will convince Fujifilm to begin work on the GFX100R, a long-overdue successor to the GFX50R. If this camera does well, it might bring with it a whole new era of retro-style medium-format cameras.

*Yellow Brush, Pink Sand* – White Sands NP, NM – Fujifilm GFX100S II + 80mm f1.7 – Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex

Classic Negative is Perfect for Everyday Moments and Vacation Snapshots

Posted on February 24 by Ritchie Roesch

*Hello, I am at Disneyland* – Anaheim, CA – Fujifilm X100VI – Fujicolor Superia 800

If there’s one film simulation that perfectly captures the nostalgia of family vacations and everyday moments, it’s Classic Negative. Modeled after the Fujicolor Superia line of film, Classic Negative has a way of making images feel like cherished memories straight-out-of-camera. With its unique color palette and strong contrast, this film simulation is ideal for those who want their snapshots to have analog character.

Because of its distinctive colors—with a familiar retro aesthetic—Classic Negative works quite well for family and travel photography. Skin tones are rendered with a touch of warmth. Greens are subdued, while reds lean orange. Classic Negative is unique among the film simulations in that the exposure—whether brighter or darker—affects how the pictures are rendered, similar to how Superia film behaves to overexposure and underexposure. This produces photos that are reminiscent of prints from the ’90’s and 2000’s, evoking nostalgic emotions.

When you use Classic Negative, you get pictures that feel like instant memories. If you’ve ever flipped through an old photo album—perhaps filled with pictures from your childhood—you’ll recognize the charm. The colors and tones are reminiscent of one-hour photo lab prints. For many, this film simulation isn’t just about the colors—it’s about the built-in nostalgia.

*Spooner Cove* – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor 100 Gold

The last thing you want to do upon returning from vacation is to spend hours and hours at a computer editing hundreds or even thousands of RAW files. Classic Negative ensures that your images have a timeless quality right from the camera. It’s well-suited for candid moments, like kids running through the ocean waves, grandparents smiling at a birthday party, or lunch along a quiet street in a new city. Whether you’re on a roadtrip, at a amusement park, or simply documenting everyday family life, Classic Negative is a storytelling tool with a film-like aesthetic.

This film simulation turns everyday snapshots into pictures filled with emotion and nostalgia. Whether you’re documenting a once-in-a-lifetime vacation or a quiet moment at home, Classic Negative ensures that your photos feel as special as the memories themselves. The next time that you’re out with your Fujifilm camera, try a Classic Negative Film Simulation Recipe—watch your photographs come to life with timeless charm. There are nearly 60 Classic Negative Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App; if you’re unsure which ones to try, below are 10 Recipes that are quite excellent for everyday moments and vacation snapshots.

Reala Ace

Pacific Blues

Fujicolor Superia 100

Fujicolor Reala 100

Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled

Superia Premium 400

Fujicolor Superia 800

Fujicolor Natura 1600

Kodak Max 800

Fujicolor 100 Gold

Introducing the Fuji X Weekly + WEX Photo Video Fujifilm X-T50 Collaborative Bundle

Posted on February 21 by Ritchie Roesch

Last year, WEX Photo Video asked if I’d be interested in assembling a Fujifilm-related camera bundle. It could be anything that I wanted, just as long as the products made sense together. I decided on a first-time-Fujifilm type of kit. If you are in the market for your very first Fujifilm camera, this bundle would serve as an excellent all-in-one starting point.

The camera I chose for this bundle is the Fujifilm X-T50. It’s simple and fun enough for beginners, yet sophisticated and capable enough for advanced users—in other words, the camera will keep up with you as you grow. No matter where you are on your photographic journey—from brand-new hobbyist to experienced pro—the Fujifilm X-T50 is an excellent camera, so it’s easy to recommend. The silver version is my favorite, so that’s what I chose for the bundle.

“Fuji X Weekly is an amazing resource for photography enthusiasts, especially those diving into the world of Fujifilm. Created by Ritchie Roesch, Fuji X Weekly has become the go-to for Fujifilm photographers looking to explore their camera’s potential. Known for its collection of Film Simulation Recipes, Fuji X Weekly empowers users to recreate the iconic looks of classic film stocks directly in their cameras without the need for post-processing. This bundle celebrates the creativity that Fuji X Weekly represents and is picked by Ritchie to offer you a perfect starting point to explore the Fujifilm system and capture stunning images with ease.”
—Wex Photo Video

What’s a camera without a lens? The Fujinon 35mm f/2 is one of my favorites. It’s small, lightweight, optically excellent, and affordable. I’ve owned this lens for a long time, and still use it regularly. On X-series cameras, because of the APS-C crop factor, it’s a “nifty-fifty” standard prime, something every photographer should have, and the perfect lens for learning composition. The silver version of the Fujinon 35mm f/2 looks strikingly good on the silver X-T50.

To complete the kit, included is a spare NP-W126S battery, SanDisk Extreme 256GB SD Card, and SmallRig Leather Half Case. A memory card is essential to get started, and this SanDisk is one that I personally have in a few of my cameras. The extra battery isn’t essential, but very nice to have—especially for traveling—so I wanted it included. The SmallRig Half Case adds a little style and extra protection.

Altogether, these five items—silver Fujifilm X-T50 camera, silver Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens, spare battery, 256GB SD Card, and leather half case—is an excellent kit for someone just getting started with Fujifilm. With this bundle, you’re good to go—there’s nothing else you need to buy to begin your photographic journey.

This Fuji X Weekly + Wex Photo Video collaborative bundle is not available anywhere else. Fujifilm doesn’t offer the X-T50 and 35mm f/2 as a kit (they should!). The only place you can get these bundled together is at Wex. Right now, this kit is only £1,661.90 (about $2,100 USD). The MSRP for these five items, if purchased separately, is £1,841.90; however, because the X-T50 and 35mm lens are currently on sale, the price is £180 less. There’s no extra discount for purchasing these items together; this is meant to simplify the purchasing process for someone in the market for their first Fujifilm camera.

Fuji X Weekly + Wex Photo Video Fujifilm X-T50 Collaborative Bundle
Included:
– Silver Fujifilm X-T50 camera
– Silver Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens
– Spare NP-W126S battery
– SanDisk 256GB SD Card
– Small Rig Leather Half Case

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Find nearly 400 Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm cameras in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Classic Chrome is the Ideal Film Simulation for Travel Photography

Posted on February 20 by Ritchie Roesch

*Across the Grand Expanse* – Grand Canyon, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 64

When it comes to travel photography, nothing quite matches Fujifilm’s Classic Chrome film simulation. Inspired by Kodak’s color slide films—such as Kodachrome and Ektachrome—that were commonly used for documentary photography, Classic Chrome delivers muted tones, rich contrast, and a subtle warmth that evoke the look of classic photojournalism. Whether you’re exploring bustling cities, vast landscapes, or quiet villages, this film simulation brings a distinct analog feel reminiscent of past eras to your images.

The magic of Classic Chrome for travel photography is that it adapts well to various lighting environments, from golden-hour sunsets to harsh midday light to dreary overcast scenes to neon nightscapes. The balance of true-to-life yet expressive colors and rich contrast make it perfect for unpredictable travel conditions, enhancing the mood of a scene, and producing images with a timeless and immersive feel. Classic Chrome doesn’t exaggerate colors—it enhances them in a way that lets the subject take center stage.

*Two Caballeros* – Culleoka, TX – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodachrome 64

Whether you’re capturing a quaint coastal town, the details of a historic city, the vastness of a dusty desert, the vibrancy of a street market, or the bustle of an urban sidewalk, Classic Chrome adapts beautifully. It provides a vintage, editorial look that is just as effective for street photography as it is for landscapes. This film simulation enhances the story within the image, where emotion and authenticity matter more than exaggerated aesthetics.

Classic Chrome is the most popular film simulation among those who use Film Simulation Recipes, and it’s easy to understand why. With 90 Classic Chrome Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App, there’s bound to be a few that match your style. If you’re unsure which ones to try, below are 10 Recipes that are quite excellent for travel photography.

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 8

Posted on February 19 by Ritchie Roesch

*Lonely Table* – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Week 7

*GFX100S II & 30mm* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 & 90mm f/2 – Reggie’s Portra

I wasn’t especially productive or unproductive this week. There are a handful of photographs that I really like, and a fair number of mediocre ones. I do feel that grabbing a camera and making pictures daily is becoming more natural—I believe the habit is setting in; however, I do need to press myself to be more creative on some days.

Below are the eighth set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, February 11th, 2025

*Cat Under Arch* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Wednesday, February 12th, 2025

*Night Owl* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 30mm f/3.5 – Kodak Tri-X 400

Thursday, February 13th, 2025

*Leaf on a Wet Windshield* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Friday, February 14th, 2025

*Seat Stripes* – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Saturday, February 15th, 2025

*Light on a Dark Wall* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 27mm f/2.8 – RedScale

Sunday, February 16th, 2025

*Handle Shadows* – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Monday, February 17th, 2025

*Nature & Structure* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – RedScale

Week 9

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

RedScale — Fujifilm X-Trans IV & V Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on February 18 by Ritchie Roesch

*The Red Desert* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – RedScale

Redscale is an analog film technique where you load a roll of color film into the camera backwards. The film is exposed from the wrong side—through the plastic backing—exposing the red layer first. The results are photographs with a predominately red color cast. Sometimes it’s yellow-ish, sometimes it’s orange-ish, sometimes it’s peach-ish, sometimes it’s purple-ish, but mainly it is red. Results can very from film-to-film, and also how the film is exposed and developed/scanned; however, a redscale photo is unmistakable—you know it when you see it.

You can buy film preloaded for redscale photography. Lomography has Redscale XR, which is an unknown Kodak emulsion loaded into the canister backwards (some have speculated it’s Ultramax 400). On Valentine’s Day, Harman released Red 125, which is backwards-loaded Phoenix 200. Harman Red 125 is what this RedScale Recipe was inspired by. Because the film is new, there aren’t a lot of examples yet. I’m not convinced that this Recipe is perfectly accurate, but it seems to be pretty close from the limited number of pictures I found online.

*Light on a Dark Wall* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – RedScale

Redscale photography isn’t for everyone or every situation—it’s a niche lomo-esque aesthetic. But if you want to get that look straight-out-of-camera, this RedScale Film Simulation Recipe will do that very convincingly. This is compatible with Fujifilm X-Trans IV (excluding the X-T3 and X-T30; use this Redscale Recipe instead) and X-Trans V cameras. While Classic Negative renders blue more deeply on X-Trans V than on X-Trans IV, because the color blue doesn’t really come through with this Recipe, it looks the same on both sensor generations. You can also use it on most GFX cameras.

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Dynamic Range: DR200
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: 10000K, +9 Red & -9 Blue
Highlight: 0
Shadow: +2
Color: +4
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this RedScale Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4, X100VI & GFX100S II:

*Classic Circles* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*The Very Best* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Tall Chair* – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Hat Rack* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Nature & Structure* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI

*Chairs & Cart* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Promenade* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V

*CVS Sign* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Two Bikes* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI

*Suburban Bike* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Son, Shadow* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Reflected Structure* – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Unlikely Friends* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II

*Palm Canopy* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI

*Suburban Tree* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Palm Abstract* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Closed for the Evening* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Fire Flowers* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Red Hair* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4

*Red Saguaro Fingers* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex

Find this RedScale Film Simulation Recipe and nearly 400 more in the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Exposure Triangle, Part 3: Understanding ISO

Posted on February 17 by Ritchie Roesch

*Fujifilm X-T30 – ISO 25600 – Ilford HP5 Plus 400 Push Process*

Part 1: Aperture, Part 2: Shutter

As we’ve already discussed, aperture determines the amount of light that enters the camera, and shutter speed determines for how long that light is allowed to expose the camera’s sensor. The third aspect of the exposure triangle is ISO, which is how sensitive the sensor is to that light. Well, that’s not exactly true. ISO works much different with digital sensors than it did with silver halide film, but the basic premise is similar: the higher the ISO, the brighter and “grainer” the image; the lower the ISO, the darker and “cleaner” the image. ISO is found in the camera’s menu, and on some models is controlled by a knob on the top plate or via a wheel around the shutter knob.

This is the simplest of the three exposure triangle elements to grasp, and yet maybe the most difficult. With things like dual-native ISO and ISO invariance, it can be quite confusing. I don’t want to get too deep into the weeds here, because it doesn’t really matter all that much. Basically, Fujifilm cameras technically have just two ISOs: base gain (ISO 200 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 160 on X-Trans IV, ISO 125 on X-Trans V) and second gain (ISO 800 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 640 on X-Trans IV, and ISO 500 on X-Trans V). The base gain is the cleanest of the two. As the ISO is increased from the base gain, the picture becomes “noisier” (a.k.a. “grainier” or “grittier”) because the brightness is being turned up, making the digital noise more obvious. At the second gain point, a switch activates the second base ISO, and the image is actually cleaner than the ISO directly below it. As the ISO is increased from the second gain, it becomes “noisier” because the brightness is being turned up, making the digital noise more obvious. You could photograph at just those two ISOs, and using software increase the brightness, and the results will be the same as increasing the ISO in-camera. Clear as mud?

Another point worth mentioning is that Dynamic Range (DR) and D-Range Priority (DR-P) settings are ISO-dependent. In order to use DR400 or DR-P Strong, the minimum ISO required is ISO 800 on X-Trans III and older, ISO 640 on X-Trans IV, and ISO 500 on X-Trans V. For DR200 or DR-P Weak, the minimum ISOs are 400, 320, and 250, respectively. DR200 and DR400 are unavailable at the extended ISOs. This illustrates another point of confusion: while the maximum dynamic range (range of details between deep shadow and bright highlight) for DR100 is at base ISO, the maximum dynamic range in general is at the second gain point with the camera set to DR400 or DR-P Strong. Confusing, right?

*Fujifilm X-T50 – ISO 51200 – Nostalgic Neg. film simulation*

The old rule of thumb for ISO was to keep it as low as possible, and only increase it when necessary. I think that advice is a little outdated. Fujifilm cameras produce clean results that are very difficult to distinguish from each other at and below the second gain point, and are still pretty clean at and below ISO 1600. Above ISO 1600 the noise becomes more obvious, and it’s up to each person to determine just how high is too high, how much noise is too much noise. Generally speaking, on X-Trans III and newer cameras, I personally find that color photographs are good up to ISO 6400 and black-and-white up to ISO 12800. There are, of course, exceptions to this. You might desire the gritty aesthetic produced by using ultra-high ISOs. Each person’s tastes are different.

Because (for the most part) ISO isn’t all that important, I like to let the camera choose it for me with Auto-ISO. This works with either the Aperture or Shutter set to “A” (Aperture-Priority or Shutter-Priority). In Auto-ISO, the camera will choose the lowest ISO possible, and only increase it when necessary. You can choose the top and bottom ISO values, and the minimum shutter speed. It works really well most of the time. Also, like aperture and shutter, there are full stops (ISO 200, 400, 800 etc.) and intermediate third stops (ISO 250, 320, 500, 640, etc.).

Unless you desire a “grainy” photo, you want to keep the ISO low (however, no lower than the minimum for the Dynamic Range setting used). Find the maximum ISO that you are comfortable with, and set that as the top value of your Auto-ISO (basically, you can set-and-forget). I think a lot of people worry too much about ISO and digital noise—I invite you to try a higher ISO than you might otherwise set as the maximum, as you might find it to be more useful than you previously thought. For the cleanest photographs, keep the ISO low, no higher than the second gain point for your camera.

Is IBIS Really Necessary? Is F/4 too Small?

Posted on February 13 by Ritchie Roesch

There’s been a lot of discussions about the rumored upcoming Fujifilm GFX100RF, which might get announced next month. Supposedly, it will be a compact 100mp medium-format fixed-lens camera similar to the X100-series and about the size of an X-Pro3. It won’t have IBIS, and the lens will be 35mm f/4, which are major points of contention for some. I figured that this might be a good opportunity to explore if those two design choices will be crippling for the camera, or if it is much ado about nothing.

I don’t have any inside information on the upcoming camera. Fujifilm hasn’t shared anything about it with me, not even if there is a camera forthcoming. I only know as much as the next person, and what I do know I read on Fujirumors. Patrick has a pretty solid track record, so there’s a good chance that everything he has shared about the camera is correct, but until it is announced by Fujifilm, nothing can be known with 100% certainty. In other words, anytime that we’re discussing rumors, it should be taken with a grain of salt.

Personally, I’m really excited for the GFX100RF. I believe that an X100-like GFX camera is going to be a major success for Fujifilm. While I don’t anticipate it being as viral as the X100VI, I do think it will have strong demand. It’s also about time that Fujifilm offers a GFX camera with manual tactile controls (is not PASM). The only other one is the long-discontinued GFX50R. If the GFX100RF is a big success, I bet that Fujifilm will begin work on a long-hoped-for GFX50R successor. If sales of the GFX100RF turn out to be disappointing, I don’t anticipate a retro-styled GFX camera for a long time, if ever. In my opinion, this is a crucial release, a lot hinges on it.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/4 – PRO Negative 160C*

The upcoming GFX100RF will essentially be the digital version of the Fujifilm GA645W, a fixed-lens 120 film camera from the 1990’s. The GA645W has a 45mm f/5.6 lens, which is 25mm full-frame-equivalent, and with a depth-of-field similar to f/3.2. The GFX100RF will have a 35mm f/4 lens, which is 28mm full-frame-equivalent, and with a depth-of-field similar to f/3.2. It’s not quite as wide as the GA645W, but pretty close. The Fujifilm X70, with its 18.5mm (28mm full-frame-equivalent) lens, might also be considered comparable.

Some people have said that f/4 is much too small for a maximum aperture on the upcoming GFX camera, since f/4 is not especially impressive. Unfortunately, a larger maximum aperture lens would require the camera to be bigger and heavier. Would an f/2.8 lens be nice? For sure, yes. But, at what cost? I’m sure Fujifilm was faced with a lot of difficult choices as they developed the prototype, and as they weighed the pros and cons, they made what they felt were the best decisions. So we have f/4, which is not uncommon for GFX. I count six GF lenses in the current lineup with a maximum aperture of f/4, plus two at f/3.5, and four with a maximum aperture smaller than f/4. Only five GF lenses have a maximum aperture larger than f/3.5. The decision to go with f/4 should not be all that surprising, and I doubt many—if any—in the GFX world were shocked by it.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II at ISO 6400 & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/4 – Kodak Tri-X 400*

GFX cameras are good for high-ISO photography. It’s kind of a paradox of digital medium-format: it’s good that it’s better at high-ISOs, because you’re going to need it, since the maximum apertures are typically not as large as smaller sensor formats. There are pros and cons to everything. Unsurprisingly, you’re going to find tradeoffs. It is what it is.

Not all Fujifilm cameras have in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS), but most of the GFX models do (only the original two don’t). There are a couple of situations where IBIS is especially helpful, plus a few where it can be nice to have. One is video. IBIS is not a requirement for video, but it is particularly convenient when handholding without a gimbal. Another is telephoto lenses. The longer the lens, the more useful IBIS is. Low-light situations without a tripod is an example of when it can be nice to have. For many circumstances, IBIS is not particularly necessary, especially for wide-angle lenses. Some who say that they need IBIS might discover that their photography wouldn’t suffer if it was turned off—they’re not giving themselves enough credit for how well they can hold still.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II at 1/20 & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/16 – Kodak Tri-X 400*

The rule of thumb is that, without IBIS, whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the X-series lens is 16mm, which is 24mm full-frame-equivalent, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/25. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds. For the GFX100RF, with its 35mm lens (28mm full-frame-equivalent), the slowest hand-held shutter speed will be about 1/30.

There’s a myth floating around that IBIS is more necessary with 100mp sensors than with lower-resolution sensors. That’s simply not true. More resolution does not equal a bigger need for IBIS in order to get sharp photographs. A 100mp sensor has no more or less of a need for IBIS than a 12mp sensor. A sharp photo is a sharp photo no matter the resolution, and a blurry image is blurry no matter the resolution. The myth is false, and not based on reality.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II at 1/25 & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/9 – Superia Negative*

I put all of this to the test yesterday. Obviously, I don’t have access to a GFX100RF. I’m sure some people have it in their hands right now, but I don’t. I do own a GFX100S II and a Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 lens (which doesn’t have OIS). So I turned IBIS off. I kept the aperture at f/4 or smaller. I did my best to simulate the upcoming camera, although the GFX100S II is much larger and heavier, and with PASM. The 30mm lens is 24mm full-frame-equivalent (16mm on X-series), so a little wider than what the GFX100RF will have.

The f/4 maximum aperture wasn’t a major issue. Wide-angle photography is not known for shallow depths-of-field. While it is possible to achieve a shallow depth-of-field, I don’t anticipate this being a major selling point of the camera. I imagine that “f/8 and be there” will be a much more typical shooting philosophy. In low-light situations, I did have to increase the ISO higher than I would have had to if I had used my X-series gear, but thankfully the camera does well with high-ISO.

I tested handholding the camera at slow shutter speeds. Unsurprisingly, I consistently achieved sharp photographs at 1/25, with probably a 90% success rate. At 1/20, the success rate was closer to 60%. At 1/15, the success rate was probably 30%. I was able to get one sharp photo at 1/13. Because the lens on the GFX100RF will be a little less wide-angle, the shutter speed should be increased slightly. I suspect that it will be roughly a 90% rate at 1/30, 60% at 1/25, 30% at 1/20, and maybe 10% at 1/15. Obviously, results will vary from person-to-person, depending on your technique and ability to hold still.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II at 1/13 & Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5 at f/4 – Superia Negative*

While IBIS would have been a nice feature, I don’t think its exclusion is a major issue. I’m sure it was a compromise in order to keep the size, weight, and price down. This camera—like every other camera that’s ever been made—is not for everyone. It has advantages and disadvantages. It will be especially great for some situations and use-cases, and not so much for others. Personally, I plan to buy it; however, probably not on the announcement day. Like the GFX100S II, I’ll have to save up and probably sell some gear in order to afford it. I think it’s going to be a lot of fun, so I’m excited to try it someday when the opportunity comes.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 30mm f/3.5:
Amazon, B&H, Wex

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 7

Posted on February 12 by Ritchie Roesch

*Curvy Creek* – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgia Negative

Week 6

I had one especially productive day, and six that were much less so; however, overall I felt better about Week 7 than I did about Week 6. On the days with fewer photographs, I tried to push myself to be a bit more creative and intentional. Still, I know that I could have done better, so I need to keep at it, keep pressing forward.

Below are the seventh set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, February 4th, 2025

*Carefully Placed Beans*– Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Wednesday, February 5th, 2025

*Paying to Park*– Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Thursday, February 6th, 2025

*Slide, Film* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – PRO Negative 160C

Friday, February 7th, 2025

*Chair Curves* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 27mm f/2.8 – Kodak Tri-X 400

Saturday, February 8th, 2025

*Zenit-E Silhouette* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 27mm f/2.8 – Kodak Tri-X 400

Sunday, February 9th, 2025

*Pancake Stack* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 & 27mm f/2.8 – Upcoming Recipe

Monday, February 10th, 2025

*Disneyland* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Week 8

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

CitrusChrome — Fujifilm X-T4 ES (Full Spectrum Infrared) Film Simulation Recipe

Posted on February 11 by Ritchie Roesch

*Orange Desert* – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – CitrusChrome

CitrusChrome is a brand new Infrared Recipe for full spectrum (sensitive to light outside the visible gamut) X-Trans IV or X-Trans V cameras, like the Fujifilm X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”). It’s not for “normal” cameras. The Fujifilm X-T4 ES is a full spectrum camera briefly offered by Fujifilm to the general public—as of this writing, I believe that you can still buy the Fujifilm X-T4 ES from B&H, but it requires a phone call or in-person visit, and cannot be ordered from the internet. Otherwise, you’ll have to do a full spectrum conversion—an expensive and invasive procedure—from a third-party vendor like LifePixel, Kolari Vision, or Spenser’s Camera (to name a few).

This Infrared Film Simulation Recipe produces orange, red, pink, and peach false colors. What you get depends on the exact light situation and the specific materials—cloth or organic (leaves)—being photographed. As far as I know, none of the infrared films that were sold over the years produced the false colors seen here; however CitrusChrome can be in the ballpark of Aerochrome sometimes, so situationally specific it can be somewhat convincing as an Aerochrome facsimile. What this Recipe more resembles is modern (digital) IR photography, which has a much wider array of possible outcomes. With that said, I don’t believe that I’ve seen this exact look before, so it might be a brand-new aesthetic.

*Light, Color, Texture* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES – CitrusChrome

Aside from having a full spectrum camera (like the X-T4 ES), this Recipe requires two filters: True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise) and True Color Infrared Crimson (Light Blue), which can be found on AliExpress. The True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise) filter is simply a QB19 Blue filter and LB18 Green filter combined into one, while the True Color Infrared Crimson (Light Blue) filter is simply a QB19 and GRB3 (heat) filter combined into one. You probably could use a QB19, LB18, and GRB3 combination instead of the two True Color Infrared filters, but I have not tested that personally. I was a little hesitant to buy the Autumnizer (Turquoise) and Crimson (Light Blue) filters because I had never purchased anything from AliExpress before, and saw mixed reviews regarding the platform; however (and thankfully), the process turned out to be smooth. I’m not sure if the order matters, but I have the Crimson (Light Blue) filter first (closest to the lens) and the Autumnizer (Turquoise) last (furthest from the lens).

Filters: True Color Infrared Crimson (Light Blue) & True Color Infrared Autumnizer (Turquoise)
Film Simulation: Astia
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: 9000K, +9 Red & -4 Blue
Highlight: -0.5
Shadow: -1.5
Color: +4
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this CitrusChrome Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T4 ES:

*Photography Ideas* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Curtains and Blinds* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Book & Fake Succulent* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Red Blanket* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Red Shoes* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Toilet Trash* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Cyber* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*House Behind Wall* – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Stripes* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Wall Shrub* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*CVS Exit* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Garages* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Main Street Market* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Corner* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Evening Palm Tree* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Tempe Palm* – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Palm Tree & Contrail* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Craftsman* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Forked Tree* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Yellow Bougainvillea Blooms* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Leaves in a Pool* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Orange Saguaro* – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Papago Road* – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

*Desert Tortoise* – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 ES

Find CitrusChrome and other Infrared Recipes in the Fuji X Weekly App, available for both Android and Apple.

Exposure Triangle, Part 2: Understanding Shutter Speed

Posted on February 9 by Ritchie Roesch

*Fujifilm X100VI – f/11, ISO 500, 1/15 shutter – Kodak Gold 200*

Part 1: Aperture, Part 3: ISO

Shutter speed simply controls the amount of time that light is exposed to the camera’s sensor. How motion is rendered—either frozen still or as a blur—will depend on the shutter speed. There are a few key things to know, but overall this is all fairly easy to understand.

Before we dive in, I want to quickly revisit aperture, because there’s something I forgot to mention in Part 1. How sunstars and lens flare will appear depends on a number of factors, including (among other things) the aperture you’ve selected. For more pronounced sunstars, use a small aperture, such as f/16. If you want to minimize sunstars and lens flare, use a large aperture, such as f/2. This is just one more factor to consider when choosing the most appropriate aperture for the scene in front of you.

*Forest Sunstar* – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50 & Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens at f/14 – California Summer

Now, with that out of the way, let’s talk about shutter speeds. What is it? What does it do to your pictures? How do you control it to get the images that you want?

The quick and simple definition of shutter speed is that it is the amount of time the camera’s shutter curtain is open, allowing light to reach the sensor or film. A fast shutter speed allows very little light to expose the sensor, while a slow shutter speed allows a lot of light in. Shutter speed is one of three elements of the exposure triangle, along with aperture and ISO, and must be used in balance with the other two elements. On many Fujifilm cameras, the shutter speed is controlled by a knob on the top of the camera, marked with numbers like 125, 250, 500, etc., etc..

*Fujifilm X-T30 & Rokinon 12mm f/2 + tripod – 0.4 second exposure – Kodak Gold 200*

Some common shutter speeds are 1/15, 1/30, 1/60, 1/125, 1/250 and 1/500. There are, of course, many other shutter speeds, this is far from a comprehensive list. 1/15 is an example of a slow shutter speed, and 1/500 is an example of a quick shutter speed. You’ll note that these are fractions, as in fractions of a second. You’ll also note that they’re half or twice as long as the shutter speed on either side, which means that 1/60 lets in half as much light as 1/30, and 1/15 lets in twice as much light as as 1/30. Like aperture, there are intermediate stops in-between the full stops—most commonly one-third stops, but sometimes half-stops.

Shutter speed is about motion, either freezing or showing it. A slow shutter speed will show motion as a blur, while a fast shutter speed will freeze it. In the first picture below, which was captured with a 1/450 shutter speed, you’d never know that the car was zooming by, because the motion was frozen. The second picture below, which was captured with a 1/80 shutter speed, shows the motion through the car’s blur. The third picture below, which was captured with a 1/60 shutter speed, shows the motion through panning, where the car is sharp but the background blurred from the sweeping lens.

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/450 shutter speed*

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/80 shutter speed*

*Fujifilm X-M1 & Fujinon 90mm – 1/60 shutter speed*

In order to freeze motion, there are a few considerations: the focal length of the lens, the distance of the moving object, and it’s speed. The longer the focal length of the lens, the faster the minimum shutter speed needs to be; the shorter the focal length, the slower the minimum shutter speed needs to be. The closer and faster the moving object is, the faster the shutter speed needs to be; the further and slower the moving object is, the slower the shutter needs to be in order to freeze it.

If nothing is moving in the frame, the only motion is the photographer. A tripod will eliminate camera shake; if you don’t have a tripod, in-body-image-stabilization (IBIS) or optical-image-stabilization (OIS) can help to a degree. If your gear doesn’t have stabilization, you’ll want to use this rule of thumb: whatever the focal length of the lens is (or in the case of Fujifilm cameras, the full-frame-equivalent focal length), the minimum shutter speed should be a similar number. For example, if the lens is 18mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 27mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/30. If the lens is 90mm, which has a full-frame-equivalent focal length of 135mm, the slowest hand-held shutter speed is around 1/125. With good techniques, you can often get a sharp picture with even slower shutter speeds, but that takes practice.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II & Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 – f/9, ISO 320, 1/680 shutter – 1970’s Summer*

In order to freeze motion, for portraits, events, kids, and pets, I recommend a minimum shutter speed of 1/125, but faster is better, such as 1/250. For sports and moving wildlife, the minimum shutter speed should be 1/250, but faster is better, such as 1/500. If the motion is blurry, increase the shutter speed. In order to show motion as a blur, the maximum shutter speed will likely need to be under 1/125, and probably under 1/30, just depending on the situation. If the blur is insufficient, decrease the shutter speed.

Another shutter speed consideration is in regards to flash photography. Some cameras, such as the X100-series, have a leaf shutter, which allows for high-speed flash sync; however, most cameras don’t have a leaf shutter, and have a maximum shutter speed for flash. On Fujifilm models, this is marked by an “X” next to the shutter speed—for example, on the X-T5, the maximum shutter speed for flash photography is 1/250, which is marked as 250X on the shutter knob. The fastest shutter speed you should use with flash photography is the one with the X next to it.

*Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 + flash – f/4, ISO 500, 1/250 shutter – Nostalgic Americana*

The two main things to remember about shutter speed are 1) that it is used to show motion, either frozen still or as a blur, and 2) it is one aspect of the exposure triangle, and must be balanced with both aperture and ISO. Increasing the shutter speed reduces the light, so you may need to use a larger aperture and/or a higher ISO to compensate; reducing the shutter speed increases the light, so you may need to use a smaller aperture and/or lower ISO. It’s a balancing act. Used thoughtfully, shutter speed can express movement in creative ways, so take a moment to consider how to best use it for the scene in front of you.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 56mm f/1.2 R WR:
Amazon, B&H, Wex, Nuzira
Fujinon 90mm f/2:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

OM-3 Thoughts

Posted on February 6 by Ritchie Roesch

I’ve had a couple of people ask me this morning for my opinions regarding the brand new Olympus—sorry, I mean OM System as they are now called—OM-3 camera, which was announced today. I don’t have a lot of strong thoughts about it, and I’ve never handled the camera nor seen it in person, so these opinions should be taken with a large grain of salt.

Micro-Four-Thirds (M43) sales have been on the decline for years. It’s a shrinking market and has been for awhile, but it’s not dead (yet, anyway). Olympus—err, OM System—has surprisingly strong sales in Japan, but not worldwide, where it’s largely a minor (and almost forgotten) footnote in today’s digital camera market. The OM-3 will surely help to bring more international attention to the brand and the format.

I don’t have any major issues with the camera itself. I think M43 hit a ceiling several years back, and there’s not a lot of room for growth. You see that in this camera, as it’s not especially innovative compared to their releases going back to 2019. This is not a suggestion that the camera isn’t good, only that the system needs some major technological innovation in order to break the ceiling it is currently pinned against. Right now, they seem to be leaning into AI for that, but I’m not sure if that’s going to do it.

The OM-3 is a bit large and expensive for what it is. This is a Fujifilm-centric blog, so I will make some quick apples-to-oranges comparisons to X-series models. It’s similarly sized to the Fujifilm X-T50, and just a smidge heavier—I think that’s the Fujifilm model the OM-3 is most similar to, although they are divergent enough not to directly compare. The OM-3 is better-looking, but (unfortunately, IMHO) with a dial format more similar to the X-S20, plus a swivel screen. The OM-3 is weather-sealed, and in that sense it could be compared to the X-T5. The stacked sensor will draw some comparisons to the X-H2s, while the price is the same as the X-H2. I think if OM System had been able to price it three or four hundred dollars less, it would be a bit more compelling. Perhaps the camera that the OM-3 will get compared to the most is not a Fujifilm model, but the Nikon Zf. It’s possible that Olympus views this more as a competitor to that camera, and less to any specific Fujifilm model.

For those with M43 cameras, the OM-3 must be a sight for sore eyes. Between both OM System and Panasonic, M43 has averaged only two camera releases per year for several years now, so new bodies are few-and-far between. The OM-3 is the best-looking M43 camera released in awhile. It’s basically a flagship model, so it has a lot of solid features. For those on the outside—who aren’t already in the M43 system—I’m not sure this camera is enough to draw you in, especially when there are options with larger sensors, more resolution, higher dynamic range, better high-ISO, smaller depth-of-field, etc., for the same or less money, and not much larger, if larger at all.

The advantages that M43 has over other sensor formats are size, weight, and price. The OM-3 doesn’t leverage any of those advantages, but if Olympus were to make a new PEN-F, that very well could be a big success because it would play to the advantages of the system. If I were them, I would do that before 2025 is over. I would also return to the Olympus brand name, as OM System just doesn’t have as good of a ring to it, nor does it hold any nostalgia (plus, I keep accidentally typing Olympus instead of OM System…), but I highly doubt that will happen.

Let me wrap this up. I wish OM System much success. I have nothing against them or the OM-3. I’m sure it is an excellent camera, and that those who buy it will be quite happy with their purchase. I don’t have any interest in the OM-3 personally because I love my Fujifilm cameras, and there’s nothing profound enough with this model to convince me to invest into a new system, especially one that is barely holding on. I think this camera will appeal the most to those who already own some M43 lenses.

52 Weeks of Photography: Week 6

Posted on February 6 by Ritchie Roesch

*Palms in the Clouds* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Kodak Tri-X 400

Week 5

*Desert Saguaro* – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Looking back on this week’s photographs, I was surprised that the vast majority were fairly pedestrian. I thought I had had a productive week—in fact, I did have a productive week; however, just not artistically. If I’m going to accomplish my goal of improving my craft in 2025, quantity isn’t going to be sufficient. I need to think more about quality whenever I have a camera in my hands.

Below are the sixth set of seven pictures from this 52 Weeks of Photography project.

Tuesday, January 28th, 2025

*Fork in the Trunk* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Nostalgic Film

Wednesday, January 29th, 2025

*Bunches of Blossoms* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Thursday, January 30th, 2025

*Green Snakes* – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Friday, January 31st, 2025

*Fish Fan* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Saturday, February 1st, 2025

*Fake Snake Plant* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II & 80mm f/1.7 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm

Sunday, February 2nd, 2025

*Early Spring Yellow* – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Monday, February 3rd, 2025

*Yellow Bougainvillea Backlit* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – Upcoming Recipe

Week 7

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm GFX100S II:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujinon GF 80mm f/1.7:
Amazon, B&H, Wex
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
Amazon, B&H, Moment, Wex, Nuzira

25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of January 2025

Posted on February 4 by Ritchie Roesch

*Moon Palms* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm GFX100S II – Kodachrome 64

I get asked fairly regularly which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular. For me, this is a fascinating topic, but it’s definitely hard to know definitively. While I get a glimpse on social media, my best gauge is the Fuji X Weekly website statistics; specifically, which Recipe articles are viewed the most. I don’t collect any data on the Fuji X Weekly App, so that’s no help—although, if I did, it would likely offer the most accurate picture; however, it would still be impossible to know which Recipes people programmed into their Fujifilm cameras, or how often they used each. Perhaps a survey would be particularly useful, yet even it has its limitations. While certainly a flawed method, page-view website statics offer the best glimpse at which Film Simulation Recipes are the most popular, so that’s what I’m using for this article. These are simply the Top 25 most-viewed Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly website last month (January 2025).

I didn’t make a list for December’s statistics, but instead did a recap of the whole year. From month-to-month there’s not usually a lot of surprises, as these types of lists are pretty predictable. Skipping a month tends to reveal more interesting trends. It is unsurprising to see Kodachrome 64 in the first position, as it is the long time most popular Recipe on Fuji X Weekly. Reggie’s Portra seems to now be the second most popular, surpassing Kodak Portra 400 v2, which has notably slipped. There are, of course, a number of other position changes between November and January.

*Window Ladder* – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T4 – Pacific Blues

Those Recipes with Kodak brand names in the title—Kodachrome, Portra, Gold, Tri-X, etc., etc.—are usually the most popular. Classic Chrome is the king of film simulations, as the majority of the most-viewed Recipes are based on that film simulation. Classic Negative and Reala Ace are battling for the second and third positions. Eterna is fourth, followed by Acros and Nostalgic Neg., for fifth and sixth.

Without any further delay, below are the most popular Recipes of last month!

Top 25 Most Popular Film Simulation Recipes of November 2024

#1:

Kodachrome 64

A Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras that is the long-time most popular Film Simulation Recipe for Fujifilm cameras. In November it was #2, but for all of 2024 it was the number one most popular Recipe.

#2:

Reggie’s Portra

Reggie’s Portra is a popular Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras. Reggie Ballesteros created it by modifying my Kodak Portra 400 Recipe to better suit his style and needs. It usually ranks high, but I’m confident to say that it’s officially the second most popular Recipe on Fuji X Weekly. Of the various Portra Recipes, this is the most versatile, and the most popular for portrait photography. It was ranked #3 in both the month of November and in all of 2024.

#3:

Vibrant Arizona

A Wes Anderson inspired Recipe based on Classic Chrome for X-Trans IV and X-Trans V cameras. It moved up two spots since November; in 2024 it was ranked #4.

#4:

Kodak Gold Max 400 Expired

This is a new Recipe published on December 31st. It uses the Reala Ace film simulation as the base, which means it is compatible with X-Trans V cameras. I’m not surprised to see it make this list, but I’m a little surprised to see it so high.

#5:

Kodak Portra 400 v2

A Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras that was the long-time #2 most-popular Recipe on Fuji X Weekly (it was #2 in 2024), but has been slipping lately. It moved down one position since November.

#6:

Kodak Gold 200

This is the X-Trans V version of Kodak Gold 200. It rose six spots since November, and was ranked #15 in 2024.

#7:

Reala Ace

Reala Ace, which is for X-Trans V cameras, is the most popular Classic Negative Recipe. It’s in the same position as November, and two spots below its 2024 ranking.

#8:

Kodak Portra 400 v2

This is the X-Trans V version of Kodak Portra 400 v2. It fell two positions compared to November, and was ranked #7 in 2024.

#9:

CineStill 800T

This is an Eterna-based Recipe for X-Trans V cameras; however, it’s simply an adaptation of the X-Trans IV version that has been around awhile. It’s in the same position as November, and was ranked #24 in 2024.

#10:

Kodak Tri-X 400

This is the long-time most popular B&W Recipe on Fuji X Weekly. It’s based on the Acros film simulation, and has compatibility with X-Trans III, X-Trans IV, and X-Trans V models. It climbed six spots since November, and was ranked in the same position in 2024.

#11:

Kodak Portra 400

This version of Kodak Portra 400, which is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras, was commonly the third most popular Film Simulation Recipe on Fuji X Weekly for a long time; however, now it is more typically found in the 10-15 range. It fell one spot compared to November, and was #6 for 2024.

#12:

Kodak Portra 800 v3

A Classic Chrome based Recipe for X-Trans IV and X-Trans V cameras. It climbed one spot since November, and was ranked #9 in 2024.

#13:

McCurry Kodachrome

This Recipe is reminiscent of scanned Kodachrome 64 slides, and is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras. It rose four spots since November, and was ranked #12 in 2024.

#14:

Fujifilm Negative

This is a fairly new Recipe, published on October 31st. It uses the Reala Ace film simulation, which means that it is compatible with X-Trans V cameras. Surprisingly, it was ranked #1 in November.

#15:

14 Film Dial Recipes

It is probably unfair to include the Film Dial Recipes in this list because it is not one Recipe, but 14. When it showed up in the Top 25, I was faced with the choice to included it (as unfair as that might be) or not. The Vibrant Arizona article is technically four Recipes, so there is a precedence for its inclusion. In November it was ranked #8, and in 2024 it was #18. I have no idea which of the 14 Recipes are the most used.

#16:

Pacific Blues

At one time this was the most popular Classic Negative Recipe, but now it’s second (if you don’t include Superia Negative from the Film Dial Recipe set). This particular version of Pacific Blues is compatible with X-Trans IV models, but there is also an X-Trans V version. It fell five spots since November, and was ranked #8 in 2024.

#17:

Kodak Gold 200

Another Classic Chrome based Recipe, for use on X-Trans III models, plus the X-T3/X-T30. It rose one position since November, and was ranked #14 for 2024.

#18:

Kodachrome 64

This is the X-Trans V version of Kodachrome 64. It fell three spots since November, and was ranked #13 for 2024.

#19:

Vintage Kodachrome

Vintage Kodachrome, which is based on Classic Chrome, is one of the older Film Simulation Recipes on Fuji X Weekly, and is compatible with X-Trans III cameras. It usually cracks the Top 15, and sometimes the Top 10, but this month it barely made it into the Top 20. In November it was #14, and in 2024 it was #11.

#20:

California Summer

This is currently the highest-ranked Recipe that uses the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation (aside from Nostalgic Film in the Film Dial set). It’s compatible with X-Trans V cameras. It didn’t crack the Top 25 list for November or for 2024.

#21:

Classic Color

This Recipe uses Classic Chrome and is compatible with both X-Trans IV and X-Trans V models. It was ranked #24 in November, and #22 in 2024.

#22:

1981 Kodak

This was an App Patron Early Access Recipe that recently became available to everyone. It uses the Eterna film simulation, and is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras.

#23:

Easy Reala Ace

This Recipe was published in June, and uses the Reala Ace film simulation, which means it is compatible with X-Trans V cameras. It fell three spots since November.

#24:

Classic Chrome

The very first Film Simulation Recipe on Fuji X Weekly, this Recipe is compatible with X-Trans III cameras. It fell three positions since November, and was ranked #16 for 2024.

#25:

PRO Negative 160C

This was the first Recipe I published that uses the new Reala Ace film simulation. It fell two spots since November, and was ranked #21 in 2024.

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App!

Exposure Triangle, Part 1: Understanding Aperture

Posted on February 3 by Ritchie Roesch

*Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujinon 56mm f/1.4 lens at f/4 + Nostalgic Americana*

Aperture is a fundamental aspect of photography. The exposure (brightness) of an image is determined by the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO (referred to collectively as the “exposure triangle”). Yet many photographers don’t fully understand aperture, and when to choose which f-stop. It’s more than just a setting—it’s a creative tool that can dramatically impact the look and feel of your images. Understanding how aperture affects depth-of-field, exposure, and sharpness will help you take control of your photography and achieve your artistic vision.

With Fujifilm cameras, you’ll typically control the aperture via a ring on the lens, which are marked in f-stops. A large aperture has a low f-stop number, such as f/2, while a small aperture has a high f-stop number, like f/16. There are full-stops (e.g. f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22); in-between the full stops are intermediate stops, which are most commonly third-stops (e.g. (f/1.8, f/2.2, f/2.5, f/3.2, f/3.5, f/4.5, f/5, etc., etc.) and less commonly half-stops (e.g. f/1.7, f/2.4, f/3.3, f/4.8, etc.). A large aperture (low f-stop number, such as f/1.4 or f/2.8) allows more light into the camera and also creates a shallow depth-of-field (only a narrow slice in focus), making the subject stand out against a blurred background and/or foreground—common for portraits, where you want to separate the subject from distractions. A small aperture (high f-stop number, such as f/11 or f/16) allows less light into the camera and also creates a large depth-of-field (lots in focus), which is common for landscapes where you have several compositional elements at various distances from the camera.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Reggie’s Portra*

The closer the subject is to the end of the lens, the more shallow the depth-of-field will be, and the further the subject is, the larger the depth-of-field will be, regardless of the aperture. In other words, the focus distance and aperture work together to create the depth-of-field, whether narrow or expansive. To achieve a narrow slice that is in focus (a small depth-of-field), one should position the subject close to the camera and use a large aperture (for example, f/2); to achieve a broad slice that is in focus (a large depth-of-field), one should position the subject further from the camera and use a small aperture (for example, f/11).

The aperture you choose determines how much light enters the camera (shutter speed determines for how long the sensor will be exposed to that light). A large aperture (such as f/1.7 or f/2) allows more light to enter, which is useful in low-light conditions, such as indoors or at night. A small aperture (such as f/13 or f/16) reduces the amount of light, which is useful in bright daylight situations. Even though you might wish for a shallow or large depth-of-field, the conditions might prevent you from using the most ideal aperture for what you want to achieve.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/20 + Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm*

Adjusting the aperture affects other exposure settings. If you open up the aperture for more light, you may need a faster shutter speed and/or a lower ISO to compensate. Conversely, if you stop down the aperture, which allows less light, you might need to increase the ISO or use a slower shutter speed. This is a balancing act that should be thoughtfully considered—compromises are often necessary.

Aperture also influences sharpness. While stopping down (using a smaller aperture) generally increases the area of sharpness (depth-of-field), it might actually decrease sharpness. Every lens has a “sweet spot”—an aperture range where it delivers the best overall sharpness. For many lenses, this is between f/4 and f/8 (this is generally speaking, and varies from lens-to-lens, and even sensor-to-sensor). At large apertures (such as f/1.4), lenses can exhibit softness around the edges due to optical imperfections, and also decreased overall sharpness. At small apertures (such as f/16), diffraction can reduce overall image sharpness. Selecting the optimal aperture range for your lens will ensure the sharpest photographs.

*Fujifilm GFX100S II + Fujinon 80mm f/1.7 lens at f/1.7 + Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm*

F-stop is more than just a technical setting, it’s an artistic choice. Large apertures can create dreamy backgrounds and subject isolation, small apertures ensure everything is in focus, while the middle apertures produce sharply detailed pictures. Whether you’re shooting portraits, landscapes, street photography, still-life, macro, or any other genre, the aperture choice will significantly effect the outcome, giving you creative control over your photography. Experimenting with different apertures will deepen your understanding of how they impact your pictures—the more you practice, the more intuitive it will become. The next time that you’re out with your camera, take a moment to consider the f-stop, because it’s one of the most powerful tools at your disposal.

Part 2: Shutter Speed, Part 3: ISO

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.