Review: Fujifilm X Half — A Unique Camera

I’m hesitant to write this review, because the Fujifilm X half is paradoxical. There’s a lot about it that’s conflicting. You can say this aspect of it is great for a certain group of people, but this aspect of it is not. This might be the most unique digital camera ever made, so it’s going to get a lot of attention, but also a lot of criticism. Trying to figure out who will most appreciate the X half (also called X-HF1) has been an intriguing endeavor.

To be completely transparent, it’s important for me to tell you upfront that Fujifilm sent me an X half to keep. Yea! Thank you, Fujifilm. I didn’t pay a dime for the camera. But I did have an X half preordered, so I was planning to spend money on one. I’m doing my best to not let my impressions be colored by Fujifilm’s kind generosity.

There are a few things that are unique about X-HF1. The headline is the vertically-mounted 1″ sensor. As far as I know, this is the very first camera to have a vertical sensor, all others are horizontal—that is, aside from cellphones. A lot of people—younger people especially—tend to photograph vertically on their cellphones, so it was just a matter of time before a camera would have a tall sensor. The X half is revolutionary because it’s the very first. I suspect there will be more in the future, and Fujifilm won’t be the only brand. Speaking of 1″ sensors, the name is a bit misleading. The surface area of a so-called 1″ sensor is the same as old 1″ Vidicon vacuum tube television cameras. So the name (“one inch”) has to do with the tube size of TV cameras from the ’50’s, ’60’s and ’70’s, and not the dimensions of the sensor.

The inspiration for the X half—and where the name comes from—are half-frame film cameras, like the Fujica Half, Olympus Pen, Kodak H35N, and Pentax 17. These cameras use half of a 35mm frame for each picture, orientated tall. Some medium-format cameras also are natively portrait orientated. Cameras that capture vertical photos are not new, but they are new in the digital age. Of course it has to be said that the X-HF1’s sensor isn’t half the size of a full-frame sensor, or even half the size of APS-C; no, the X half‘s “half” is not a mathematical term, but simply a nod to analog half-frame cameras. The 3:4 aspect ratio is also the same as half-frame cameras.

Like a half-frame film camera, the X half is capable of creating diptychs, which are two frames side-by-side combined into one image. You can do this easily in-camera using the Frame Advance Lever, or after-the-fact using the new X half app. It’s a heck-of-a-lot of fun, but I imagine that the novelty will wear off after awhile. While it will put a (customizable) bar in-between the two frames, I wish it had the option for a boarder around the whole image like in the examples above, which was done using a third-party app. Maybe Fujifilm will add this feature to the X half app in the future.

The X-HF1 is as minimalistic as it gets in the X-series. The menu has been simplified and streamlined, and a lot of settings have been left out. You cannot use Film Simulation Recipes with this camera, only the stock Film Simulations and Filters. Not all of the Film Sims made the cut, but most of them are there: Provia, Velvia, Astia, Classic Chrome, Reala Ace, Classic Negative, Nostalgic Negative, Eterna, Acros (include +Ye, +R & +G), and Sepia. I would rather have Eterna Bleach Bypass over Sepia, but it’s a good group overall. There are a whole bunch of Filters (called Advanced Filters on other X-series cameras), some of which are borrowed from the Instax Evo cameras. My favorites are Pop Color, Light Leak, Expired Film, and Retro. These cannot be used in addition to Film Simulations—it’s one or the other, and not both. The list of Filters is quite long, and I don’t have an interest in most of them, so I wish that you could customize which ones are available, to make it easier to find and select the ones you actually want to use.

Above: Pop Color Filter

Above: Light Leak Filter

Above: Expired Film Filter

Above: Retro Filter

Pop Color is reminiscent of Fujichrome Fortia. I’d actually like to see it graduate to Film Simulation status. Light Leak, as well as filters like Halation and Vignette, should become JPEG options on other X-series cameras, that can be added to any Film Simulation. Expired Film and Retro should be added as Advanced Filters. Of the three Expired Film options, Green and Neutral are my favorites.

The only customizations that are available are Grain, Portrait Enhancer (which I believe is just Smooth Skin Effect renamed), White Balance (but no WB Shift), and Long Exposure NR. One cool thing is that these are also applied to the Filters, and not just the Film Simulations—I’d love for that to make its way to other X-series cameras. Beyond that, the Film Simulations and Filters cannot be customized to achieve various looks, which is a real bummer for someone like me who uses Recipes extensively.

Top left: Weak / Small Grain. Top right: Strong / Large Grain. Bottom: Actual Ilford Delta P3200 film

I enjoy a little grain in my photos. It adds texture that’s been common in photography for much of its existence. The X-HF1 has faux grain, with four options: Weak/Small, Weak/Large, Strong/Small, and Strong/Large. Grain set to Weak/Small on the X half is a little more pronounced than Strong/Large is on (for example) the X100VI. I wish that there was a less strong option than Weak/Small, because it’s borderline too much; however, since there’s not, I used it almost exclusively. Strong/Large is a bit ridiculous, and is reminiscent of the grain of ultra-high ISO films like Ilford Delta P3200. If you want to achieve an Ilford Delta P3200 look, the X half isn’t far off at all when Grain is set to its maximum parameters.

Another word about Grain is that it slows the camera down, much like Clarity on other X-series cameras. I found this to be odd, and my theory is that when Grain is applied, so is Clarity (maybe -2). I tried to prove this, but couldn’t, so I might be completely wrong. I have another theory that—for Film Simulations, at least, and maybe for Filters—Color is increased as exposure is increased, and is reduced as the exposure is reduced. I also tried to prove this, but got mixed results, so I’m not certain if this is how the camera is programmed, or just a natural effect of over and under exposure.

Above: Classic Negative

The camera seems to apply a heavy-handed noise reduction, and then a heavy-handed sharpening to compensate. I would love to have some control over this, as it’s not my favorite approach. It might be necessary, though, since the X-HF1 has a Bayer sensor instead of X-Trans. One benefit of X-Trans that doesn’t get discussed enough is that it allows noise to be more easily identified and controlled; Fujifilm uses this to make it more film-grain-like, and less of a nuisance. Since this is a Bayer camera, it might require a little stronger noise reduction.

Another benefit of X-Trans is that it has more green pixels (55%, compared to 50% on Bayer), which allows for more luminosity information. This provides a little more dynamic range and high-ISO capabilities. On the X half, dynamic range is quite limited. I would say it’s roughly comparable to DR100 with Highlight and Shadow set to +0.5 on other X-series cameras. It’s fairly easy to clip highlights and/or block up shadows, and is a little like slide film in this regard. Since this camera is JPEG-only (no RAW), you have to be very careful about the exposure.

Above left: ISO 1600. Above right: ISO 4000

I found that I prefer ISO 400 and below on the X half, reminiscent of Sigma Merrill cameras, which has a similar limitation. In a pinch you can go higher, especially if the picture will only be shared to social media, but I tried my best to keep the ISO at or below ISO 400 whenever possible. Because the maximum aperture of the lens is “only” f/2.8, when the sun goes down it can be very challenging to use the camera.

The X-HF1 does have a built-in flash, albeit not a great one. It doesn’t have a hotshoe, only a coldshoe. Flash photography is, unfortunately, not ideal on this camera, which is too bad, since it has a leaf shutter. If Fujifilm someday makes a second version, I hope that it either has a proper flash or a hotshoe (or both), as this current setup is mediocre at best. I kept the flash off most of the time.

Above: Flash photography on the X half

One really cool feature is called Film Camera Mode. You select either 36, 54, or 72 shots, and you are dedicated to that mode until you’ve completed your “roll of film”—which is whatever Film Simulation you chose. I do wish that 24 was an option, as it takes awhile to finish a roll. You cannot review the photos until they’ve been “developed” in the X half app. In this mode, the X-HF1 functions similarly to point-and-shoot film cameras from the 1990’s. You have to use the Frame Advance Lever in-between shots. It’s a ton of fun, but also challenging, because you have no idea if you correctly exposed, focused, or even if you framed it well. I kept forgetting to take the lens cap off, too. My daughter coined the 72 shot roll as the 72 exposure challenge. I’d love for that to become a community-driven trend, where people post their best frames from their 72 exposure “roll” on social media, with the hashtag #72exposurechallenge.

It would be nice if you could use the various Filters in this mode, and not just the Film Simulations. ***Edit: I was on a pre-production firmware; however, after updating to the latest version, I can now use Filters in the Film Camera Mode. Yea! Sorry for the confusion.*** Another thing I’d appreciate is that whatever ISO you have selected is carried over to the Film Camera Mode. Unfortunately, you only get Auto ISO up to ISO 12800, which is totally unusable whenever it goes that high. Fortunately, your Grain and White Balance settings are carried over, so be sure to set those before starting.

Above: X half contact sheet and various frames

Once you develop your “roll” in the app, you get a contact sheet. It would be great if you could long-press on a frame, and it would give you the option of saving that frame with the sprockets, or that frame plus the one next to it (on either side, unless it’s the end of the strip), or the whole strip. Instead, you have to crop the contact sheet in order to accomplish that. But I’m a huge fan of the contact sheet in-general, it’s a really cool idea.

Overall, I enjoyed using the Film Camera Mode, but I found myself not using it as much as the regular shooting mode because you have to be in the mood for it. One of the challenges that I appreciate about the X-HF1 is finding the “right” Film Simulation or Filter, combined with the “best” White Balance, to convey the mood of the scene most appropriately. The X half is so simple that a three-year-old could use it, but to get the most out of it requires thinking a little more deeply about things that are easily taken for granted. It’s been one of the most simple yet most challenging cameras I’ve ever used—the paradox I mentioned in the opening sentence.

Fujifilm X half – Acros Film Simulation

The X half is capable of recording video, but it’s very mediocre. Someone will use it creatively just to prove the point that it can be done, but I think Fujifilm probably should have just left off video, which would have made an interesting statement. Or else, maybe do a faux 8mm thing with sprockets and light leaks and such—that would have been really cool. Food for thought for the next iteration, if there is one someday.

Who should consider buying this camera? I think there are a few obvious answers. First, the X-HF1 has a foot in both the X-series and the Instax world. For those unaware, Instax is bigger than X and GFX combined. I talked to a bunch of people—probably close to ten—who own an Instax camera yet don’t own any X-series model, and they were all highly interested in the X half. Six different people told me that it’s the only Fujifilm camera they want, aside from Instax. The X half is an obvious bridge into the X-series for these folks. Also, some people who shoot point-and-shoot film cameras but are tired of the cost of film will find this to be an intriguing option. At $25 to $50+ per roll (including development and scanning), it won’t take long for the X half to pay for itself. The X-HF1 is sort of like a digital 110 camera, and almost lomography-esque, so it’s not difficult to see the appeal. Third, digicams are all the rage right now among younger people, and this camera can be considered in that category, too.

Above: Various pictures captured with the Fujifilm X half

What about current X-series photographers? What about someone like me? The camera is a blast. It’s so much fun. But it’s a toy. It’s not a serious camera for serious photography (I’m sure someone will use it in a serious way just to prove the point that it can be). It’s great for casual snapshots. I used it extensively during nearly three weeks of travel, and it was my most-used camera during that time, even more than my Fujifilm X100VI. I have so many more pictures that I could share, this is only a small sampling. It’s so easy to always have on you, and I would rather use the X half than my iPhone, if only for the tactile experience and Fujifilm colors. If you think you’d enjoy it, it’s probably worthwhile to get. If you wonder why anyone would buy it, it’s probably not for you, and it’s easy to move on.

The biggest criticism is going to be the price. In America, the X half is a steep $850. Across the rest of the world, it’s roughly equivalent to $700 USD. Unfortunately, this was the first camera to include the new tariffs in the price (although Canon and Nikon have just implemented some price increases, and Sony will soon, too), so it’s a bit shocking. Some people will say it should be $200 or $300, and that’s highly unrealistic—just absurd and not even close to any level of reality. Some will say it should be $500, and I’d agree with that if it were pre-Covid; however, there’s been a lot of inflation since then. I believe that $650 to $700 is a fair price. $850 is a little much, but that’s largely not Fujifilm’s fault; hopefully the tariff situation will get resolved soon, and Fujifilm can drop the price to where it should be. I don’t know if that will happen, though, and if the camera sells really well at its current price, there may not be a reason to reduce it.

Above: Various diptych pictures captured with the Fujifilm X half

The last thing that I want to address is the inability to use Film Simulation Recipes with this camera. Recipes are a pretty big thing in the Fujifilm world—the brand-new X-E5 actually uses the word “Recipe” in the camera menu. I appreciate excellent straight-out-of-camera results. While I would love to be able to customize the looks more in the X half, you can still get good picture aesthetics with the limited tools available in the camera. The photography continuum has been leaning towards less editing for a few years now, and this camera is just a natural and seemingly inevitable expression of that.

There’s a lot to like about the Fujifilm X half, and a lot that can be questioned. You have to accept the camera for what it is and forgive it for not being what it’s not; otherwise, it might grind on your nerves. But, for certain, the camera is very enjoyable, and it offers a unique shooting experience not found anywhere else. If you want the X half experience, you have to have an X half. But that unique experience will not appeal to everyone, and maybe not even to most X-series photographers. I do believe this camera will be quite successful, and will bring many people into the X-series fold, mainly from groups that the camera industry has largely ignored. This will be the first X-series camera for a number of people, and someday some of those people will upgrade to a more premium model, perhaps an X-M5, X-E5, or X100VI. I think all of that is very good. It’s quite obvious to me that the Fujifilm X-HF1 will be a trendy camera, especially among younger photographers, and you’re soon going to see X half pictures all over TikTok and Instagram.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X half in black:
Amazon, B&HNuzira
Fujifilm X half in silver:
Amazon, B&HNuzira
Fujifilm X half in charcoal:
Amazon, B&H

What new JPEG Settings Should Fujifilm Introduce Next?

Fujifilm has the best JPEG output in the camera industry, in my opinion. That’s not to say the others are garbage, because some brands are pretty good (Ricoh, for example); however, they are not all equal, and—in my view—Fujifilm is at the very top when it comes to straight-out-of-camera photography. Leaning into their long history of making analog film, they’ve crafted Film Simulations and various JPEG options (which together make Film Simulation Recipes) that achieve authentic aesthetics that don’t require editing.

Over the years Fujifilm has added many new Film Simulations and JPEG settings so that photographers can get a wider variety of looks straight-out-of-camera. Nostalgic Negative and Reala Ace are found on the latest generation of models. Eterna Bleach Bypass and .5 Highlight and Shadow adjustments were introduced with the Fujifilm X-T4. Classic Negative, Grain size, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity were first found on the X-Pro3. So what should Fujifilm introduce next? What new Film Simulations and JPEG settings should be added to future cameras?

Fujifilm X100V & Pop Color Advanced Filter

There are a number of Film Simulations that Fujifilm could make. Probably the easiest would be Fortia, which would simply require moving Pop Color from Advanced Filters to the Film Simulation set. Another easy option would be a new B&W Film Simulation (maybe called Neopan) that would essentially be a higher contrast and grainer version of Acros. A Film Simulations that I believe would be a big hit is one modeled Fujicolor PRO 400H that turns pastel when overexposed, like the film was famous for. Another option that I would like to see is Cross Process, modeled after Velvia 50 developed in C41 chemistry. A fifth potential future Film Simulation is Instax, mimicking instant film.

As for JPEG settings, one option might be Split-Tone, where a certain color cast could be selected for the shadows, and a different color cast could be selected for the highlights (for example, blue for the shadows, yellow for the highlights). This could be available for both color and B&W images. Another one might be Faded Blacks, where deep shadows are rendered lighter. A third potential option could be vignette. For those last two, it could simply be Off, Weak, or Strong. To demonstrate what Faded Black and Vignette might look like, I edited some pictures using the Photos App in my iPhone, simply setting the Black Point to -50 and Vignette to +10, which might be similar to Faded Black Strong and Vignette Weak, if such settings existed. You can see the before and after below:

Faded Blacks & Vignette
Fujifilm X-T4 & Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe – SOOC
Faded Blacks & Vignette
Fujifilm GFX100S II & Nostalgia Negative Recipe – SOOC
Faded Blacks & Vignette

More Faded Blacks & Vignette examples:

Now it’s your turn! What would you like the next Film Simulation to be? Should Pop Color be moved from Advanced Filters to the Film Simulation set? What new JPEG option would you prefer be introduced next? Do you like the idea of Faded Blacks and/or Vignette? Let me know in the comments!

Fujifilm Film Simulation Patches!

Fujifilm just introduced a new product: film simulation patches!

These 2″x2″ embroidered iron-on patches are a great way to share your love of film sims to those around you. Put them on your camera bag, backpack, jean jacket, etc.. There are 11 of them: Provia, Velvia, Astia, Classic Chrome, PRO Neg. Hi, PRO Neg. Std, Classic Negative, Eterna, Monochrome, Acros, and Sepia. Find them on Fujifilm’s online store. Not sure why Eterna Bleach Bypass and Nostalgic Neg. didn’t make the cut, other than these patches resemble the small “box-top” screen on the back of the Fujifilm X-Pro3, and those two film sims aren’t available on that model.

I think they’re really cool. I ordered a couple, and plan to iron them onto my travel camera bag. They’re not exactly cheap at $10 per patch (or all 11 for $79.50, which is actually a significant bulk discount), but I think it’s a fun way to show your love of film simulations. I also think it’s fascinating that film sims are now so prominent—in large part due to the popularity of Film Simulation Recipes—that Fujifilm is merchandising them. I’d love to see them do more of this type of thing.

Exciting: Fujifilm Film Simulations just got real with these embroidered applique patches, in 11 different designs. Digitally recreated, based on historic film stocks, our Film Simulations are now available in all-new physical form. These quality, machine-embroidered patches can be heat-applied to fabric surfaces, from clothing to backpacks. Are you a bold Velvia fan, or an admirer of the timeless Acros? Grab either one separately, or the both of them if you can’t make up your mind. Love them all? We don’t blame you! Get ’em while the iron’s hot!

—Fujifilm

Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? — Summer Edition — Part 1: Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II

Rural Warehouse – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Fujicolor 100 Gold Recipe

Original Series

Summer is here! Traveling, camping, visits to the beach, boating on the lake, and stuff like that are common during these months. Perhaps you are looking for some Film Simulation Recipe recommendations for your Fujifilm camera for the summer season. I thought I’d take this opportunity to revisit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? series of articles. This post will make a lot more sense if you’ve read the original series—especially the first article—so be sure to take a look at it if you haven’t yet (or if it’s been awhile and you don’t remember).

This Part 1 is for Fujifilm X-Trans IV cameras, except for the X-T3 and X-T30, which will be covered in a different section. If you have an X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II model, I invite you to give these Recipes a try! There are seven suggestions below—one for each C1-C7 Custom Preset—and three alternative ideas for each in case you don’t like the first recommendation. Each Custom Preset slot serves a specific purpose, so you should have a good Recipe option programmed into your camera no matter the subject or lighting. This group of seven isn’t necessarily better or worse than my original recommendations, just a different set chosen specifically for the summer months.

C1 — Fujicolor Natura 1600 — Golden Hour

Golden Lake – Culleoka, TX – Fujifilm X-E4 – Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe

Fujicolor Natura 1600 is a Film Simulation Recipe that does well at anytime during daylight hours—and it’s one of my all-time favorites—but I’m going to recommend it specifically for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. If you like the aesthetic, this really could be your primary use-all-of-the-time recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1, but when the sun is low to the horizon, this is one I definitely recommend shooting with. I personally use this recipe frequently.

Alternatives for “golden hour” photography:

Fujicolor 100 Gold
Kodak Portra 400 v2
Kodak Portra 400

C2 — Pacific Blues — Midday

Coastal Blooms – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues Recipe

Pacific Blues is another one that could be your go-to everyday-use Recipe, but specifically I want to suggest it for daytime (non-“golden hour”) photography. Obviously it can also be used for when the sun is low to the horizon, too, which it excels at, but I think it is an excellent option for when the sun is not low—from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. It’s especially well suited for a day at the beach.

Alternatives for “midday” photography:

Kodachrome 64
Vintage Color
Superia Summer

C3 — Urban Dreams — Overcast

Cienega Bridge on Old Highway 80 – Vail, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Urban Dreams Recipe

If it’s thick overcast and rainy, the Urban Dreams Recipe is surprisingly an excellent option. Yes, it’s pretty good in daylight, too (even “golden hour” and at night), but give it a try on drab overcast days—I think you’ll really appreciate just how well it does in that situation.

Alternatives for “overcast” photography:

Elite Chrome 200
Reggie’s Portra
Kodachrome II

C4 — Nostalgic Negative — Natural-Light Indoor

Watch and Jewelry – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – Nostalgic Negative Recipe

For natural-light indoor photography, a good option is the Nostalgic Negative Recipe. This is another great all-rounder that could be used in pretty much any daytime situation and produce excellent results, but specifically I’m recommending it for natural-light indoor pictures. For artificial-light indoor images, use the Recipe for nighttime photography below.

Alternative for “natural-light indoor” photography:

Kodak Ultramax 400
Color Negative 400
Classic Negative

C5 — Pure Negative — Nighttime

Brad’s – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pure Negative Recipe

If it’s after dark, an excellent option for nighttime or artificial light photography is Pure Negative. This is a low-contrast Recipe with a natural rendering, which makes it especially ideal for high contrast scenes, particularly during midday light; however, it also does quite well in the darkness between sunset and sunrise and in indoor artificial light situations.

Alternatives for “nighttime” photography:

Serr’s 500T
Ektachrome 320T
CineStill 800T

C6 — Vibrant Arizona — Bonus

Summer Cliffs – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Vibrant Arizona Recipe

The C6 slot is a bonus, and the Vibrant Arizona Recipe is a solid option to fill it with—and it’s one of the most popular Recipes right now. If you didn’t want to use Vibrant Arizona, you could instead select your favorite “alternative” Recipe from C1-C5 above, or use one below.

Alternatives bonus Recipes:

Bright Kodak
Bright Summer
Silver Summer

C7 — Kodak T-Max P3200 — B&W

Closed Umbrella – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak T-Max P3200 Recipe

The newest black-and-white Film Simulation Recipe is Kodak T-Max P3200, and it has quickly become one of my favorites! If you don’t want to use this one, definitely give Kodak Tri-X 400 a try.

Alternatives for “B&W” photography:

Kodak Tri-X 400
Ilford HP5 Plus 400
Moody Monochrome

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Fujifilm X-E4 in black:  Amazon   B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-E4 in silver:  Amazon   B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X100V in black:  Amazon   B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X100V in silver: Amazon   B&H  Moment

Fuji Film Simulation: Fujifilm XQ1 + Astia at Mirror Lake (Video)

I just posted the third video in the Fuji Film Simulation series today! This new video, which you’ll find above, is about using the new X-Trans II Astia film simulation recipe at Mirror Lake in Utah on a Fujifilm XQ1 camera. I want to give a special “thank you” to Fuji X Weekly reader Gus Potenza for loaning me his camera. It’s been a lot of fun to shoot with!

If you like this video, give it a “thumbs up!” I invite you to share it on your social media. Be sure to leave a comment—I appreciate the feedback!

If you don’t follow me on YouTube, be sure to do so! There are many more videos in the works. These projects take up a lot of time, so they’ve been slow to come out, but my hope is to release a new video each week. That may or may not happen; if you don’t subscribe you might miss them when they do come out. I appreciate everyone who has already hit that Subscribe button!

My wife, Amanda, is the one who created this video. She did all of the videography and editing. If you’re interested, the gear she used (accompanied by affiliate links; yes, I will be compensated a small amount if you purchase something using those links) is listed below. Let me know if you’d like to see more of the video side of things, and what specifically you’d be interested in. Thanks!

Fujifilm X-T20 https://amzn.to/2Beu6MM
Fujifilm X-T30 https://amzn.to/2YHKiir
Fujinon 10-24mm https://amzn.to/3i6WPnq
Rokinon 12mm https://amzn.to/2CUHPJI
GoPro Hero 8 Black https://amzn.to/2BKBwY6

Fuji Film Simulation: Fujicolor 100 Industrial (Video)

I posted a new video to the Fuji X Weekly YouTube channel! This is a new series called Fuji Film Simulation, which is sort of the video version of my Film Simulation Reviews. It’s my way of demonstrating how you can use my different recipes in various situations. In this episode I walk around the University of Utah campus in Salt Lake City using my Fujicolor 100 Industrial film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30 with a Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens.

The first part of the video, which is right after the super cool intro sequence, is just me talking about this blog, how I got started in photography, my gear, film simulations and so forth. I hope that you find it interesting. Where I walk around the college campus begins at the 3:12 mark. This might be my favorite section of the episode! Be sure to watch to the end.

My wife, Amanda, made this video. The photographs are mine, but all of the footage was captured by her using a Fujifilm X-T20 and a GoPro Hero 8 Black. She did all of the editing. She did such a great job! Really, it turned out better than I hoped it would. She far exceeded my expectations when she showed me the finished video.

I invite you to watch this episode, which you’ll find at the top of this article. If you liked it, I invite you to give it a thumbs up, share and subscribe. I appreciate any feedback that you might have. Let me know what you think!