The August issue of FXW Zine is out now! Creative Collective subscribers can download it today. Not a Creative Collective subscriber? Join to gain access to this issue plus all pervious issues of FXW Zine and the many bonus articles.
Issue 21 takes a look at five budget-friendly Fujifilm cameras that are fairly inexpensive on the used market. If you are considering adding another camera but don’t have a lot to spend, or if you are looking for a good-yet-cheap first Fujifilm model—maybe for your kid or a friend—then the August issue is for you!
The new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation found only on the latest Fujifilm cameras is becoming quite popular! A lot of people really seem to love the aesthetic of it. All X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, and X-S20, have Nostalgic Neg., as well as a couple of GFX cameras (GFX100S and GFX50S II). Classic Chrome is the most-used film sim by a large margin, followed distantly by Classic Negative and Acros, but currently there’s a lot of interest in the new option.
According to Fujifilm, Nostalgic Neg. is based on “American New Color” photography of the 1970’s. They studied photographs by William Eggleston, Stephen Shore, Joel Sternfeld, and Richard Misrach in order to create it. Eggleston and Sternfeld largely shot on Kodachrome—II and X in the early 1970’s, 25 and 64 in the late ’70’s—while Shore shot mostly Kodacolor, and Misrach shot a lot of Vericolor. All of those are Kodak emulsions, but with different aesthetics. These four photographers had different styles and different darkroom processes, and they each had a unique look; the commonality that Fujifilm found was an “overall atmosphere based on amber.” That’s a basic explanation of what the new film simulation is. While not mentioned by Fujifilm, I think Nostalgic Neg. also has some similarities to photographs by Saul Leiter and Joel Meyerowitz. Leiter used a whole bunch of different films over the years, including Kodachrome and Anscochrome, but apparently he didn’t mind using generic drug store brands, either. Meyerowitz mostly shot a mix of Kodachrome and Ektachrome for his color work. Nostalgic Negative is a divergent approach for Fujifilm, I think, in that it is not intended to mimic a certain emulsion (or the “memory color” of a specific film stock), but instead tries to mimic the “memory color” of a certain decade (the 1970’s), or perhaps simply elicit a nostalgic emotional response.
A lot of various looks can be made using the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. Because it is largely intended to mimic a retro Kodak aesthetic, it’s a good starting point for Kodak-esque Film Simulation Recipes. While some of my Recipes that use Nostalgic Neg. are intended to replicate a specific stock, most of them are not, and instead are more reminiscent of a certain time or era instead of a specific emulsion; however, some of those were made from studying pictures captured on specific films, so they do tend to resemble actual film stocks to an extent.
I get asked which Nostalgic Neg. Film Simulation Recipe one should try first on their X-Trans V camera. There are plenty to choose from, and the list is growing. Since your camera has seven custom presets (with the exception of the X-S20, which only has four), I would like to suggest the seven Nostalgic Neg. Recipes below. Choose one or two or even all seven to program into your camera, and give it a try! I bet at least one of them will become a new favorite Film Simulation Recipe that you find yourself using often.
Vulture City Entrance – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
The 1970’s Summer Film Simulation Recipe very much has a nostalgic Kodak “memory color” (as Fujifilm likes to say) that is reminiscent of old color photographs from the 1970’s. You might notice some similarities to William Eggleston’s Election Eve and 2 1/4 series and some of his other work from the late-1960’s through the mid-1970’s—not every picture, but certainly several. You might spot some similarities between this look and some of Stephen Shore’s photographs from the early-to-mid 1970’s. I think there are some similarities to a few of Joel Sternfeld’s American Prospects pictures. There’s a noticeable likeness to several of Richard Misrach’s desert photographs. In other words, 1970’s Summer produces a distinct American New Color aesthetic with a clear 1970’s vibe. This recipe works best in sunny daylight, and is excellent for midday photography.
Going Out of Business – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
Short Train – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
More Than Double Wide – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
I found the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways in a used bookstore. It has page after page of amazing photography! I really love the look of the pictures in this particular issue—while not every image looks alike, there is definitely a commonality to the photo aesthetic. For those who don’t know, Arizona Highways is a magazine with an important history. It began in 1925, and in 1946 published the world’s first all-color publication. From the beginning, Arizona Highways has been dedicated to the art of photography. Ansel Adams was a regular contributor. Barry Goldwater, Ray Manley, Chuck Abbott, David and Josef Muench, Ed Ellinger, Esther Henderson, and many other talented photographers were often featured. The publication is full of wonderful images even to this day. While it is not purely a photography magazine, Arizona Highways is a publication that photographers love due to their passion for the medium.
The vast majority of the pictures in the December 1960 issue were captured on Ektachrome, and fair number were shot on Kodachrome. While it was the December issue, most of the photographs had been captured that previous summer. The Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe mimics the aesthetic of the those images, including the magazine photo below, made by Chuck Abbott in July 1960 using Kodachrome.
Agaves in 1960 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
Saguaro Spines – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
Agua Caliente Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
When I was six-years-old, my family and I went to Expo ’86 World’s Fair in Vancouver, Canada. Not long ago I found many old pictures of that event—personal, in books, and online. The Emulsion ’86 Film Simulation Recipe is highly reminiscent of some of those photographs, producing a nostalgic analog aesthetic that is similar to some pictures from the mid-1980’s (presumably primarily Kodak emulsions). While it is a good option for sunny daylight photography, I especially like how this one looks on dreary overcast days.
Old California Architecture – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
Don’t Climb on the Bikes – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
Pink Blossom Bush – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
The Kodak Negative Film Simulation Recipe isn’t intended to mimic any specific emulsions; instead it has a “memory color” similar to some Kodak films, like Royal Gold, Gold 100, and Ektar 100. It’s not an exact match to any of those, but just in the general ballpark with a warm and vibrant Kodak color negative film palette. Because it uses Auto White Balance, the Kodak Negative Recipe is fairly versatile and can be used for many subjects and lighting situations.
Three Oranges – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative
Lake Lamp – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative
Water & Reflection – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative
Backlit Lupine – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Thommy’s Ektachrome was made by Thomas Schwab, who was simply trying to make a Recipe using the Nostalgic Neg. film sim that would be good for portraits. The Recipe he created has a distinctive Ektachrome aesthetic, especially similar to National Geographic photographs prior to Ektachrome’s discontinuation by 2013 (prior to the revival in 2018). That was, of course, by chance and not intentional, but there certainly are some similarities. This Recipe is not only good for portraits, but also landscapes and I’m sure many genres of photography. Thommy’s Ektachrome does particularly well in sunny daylight, but is good for overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.
Way Over That Way – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Wildflower Spring – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Historic Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Lynx Lake Overlook – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative
I wasn’t trying to emulate any specific film or process when I created the Nostalgia Negative Film Simulation Recipe, I just wanted something that looked good. This was my very first X-Trans V Recipe, and it was simply an attempt to create a better Nostalgic Neg. than just using the default settings. I hoped that perhaps it would even evoke feelings of nostalgia with a vintage analog-like aesthetic.
Two Ducks – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative
311 – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative
Soft Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative
The creators of the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation stated, “Nostalgic Negative is tuned for the best allrounder settings, but if you want to tweak it to get that classic American New Color look from the ’70’s, there are some adjustments you should make.” This Timeless Negative Film Simulation Recipe is a tweak to Fujifilm’s recommended settings, bringing it closer to a ’70’s vibe. This particular Recipe is especially versatile, and can be used for many different genres of photography and in various light conditions—it’s good for anytime of the day or night.
Dark Coffee – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
For those with an iPhone, you can access Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes right on your wrist! With the latest Fuji X Weekly update for iOS (1.6.0), the App is available for Apple Watch. If your iPhone didn’t automatically update the App, be sure to manually do it now.
Why might you need Film Simulation Recipes on your Apple Watch? First, for some it will be easier to enter a Recipe into your camera with the parameters on your wrist, rather than trying to do it while holding a phone (especially when out in the field). Second, if you left your phone behind (say, in the car), you can still access a particular Recipe if you have an Apple Watch on your wrist—a scenario that actually happened during the process of creating this update. Third, the Random Recipe selector is more readily available, and can make your photo outing even more fun. Fourth, the Fuji X Weekly Apple Watch App has a unique feature.
On the Apple Watch, the Fuji X Weekly App will display the five most recently-viewed Film Simulation Recipes (it will begin tracking this once the App has been updated). If you viewed a particular Recipe, then maybe looked at a couple others, but now want to go back to the first, it’s easy, because the App keeps track of the last five viewed—this is whether the Recipes were opened on the Apple Watch or the iPhone. This is also for the Random Recipe selector, so you could have the Fuji X Weekly App pick (for example) three different Random Recipes to use on a photowalk, and you’ll find all three in the Recently Viewed list on your watch. Cool, right?! This is the new feature that’s only available on the Apple Watch.
If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron subscriber, whatever Filtering you have on your iPhone will carry over to the watch App. So if you have (for example) Filter by Fujifilm X-T4 and Filter by Black & White selected, the watch will only display B&W Film Simulation Recipes that are compatible with the X-T4. The Apple Watch mirrors whatever Filter options are currently selected on the phone App. Also, multi-colored Stars for Favorite Recipes behaves the same on the Apple Watch as the iPhone; you cannot add or modify a Star on the watch—only the phone—but it will display the same on the Apple Watch as the iPhone. Oh, and any Custom Recipes you’ve created in the phone App will be displayed in the watch. The best App experience—including the best Apple Watch App experience—is reserved for Patron subscribers!
Any notes that you have added underneath the Film Simulation Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly iPhone App will be displayed in the Apple Watch; you cannot type any notes on the watch App, only on the phone, but you can view the notes you’ve already added.
The Recipes on the Apple Watch are sorted A-Z. Whatever Sort option (Z-A, New-to-Old, etc.) you have selected in the phone App will not carry over to the watch. The logic behind this is that you’re not likely going to use the Apple Watch to browse Film Simulation Recipes, but are most likely seeking a specific Recipe, and it’s probably going to be significantly easier to find when displayed in alphabetical order. For this reason, the watch will only Sort A-Z, and the other options are unavailable.
When you update the Fuji X Weekly App on your iPhone (if your phone didn’t automatically do it), be sure to open the App on your phone first. The Fuji X Weekly App should automatically be added to your Apple Watch, but if not, here’s the fix: open the Apple Watch App, tap My Watch, scroll to Fuji X Weekly, and select Install. If that doesn’t work, ensure that the iOS on your iPhone and Apple Watch are up-to-date. For those on Android phones or with a third-party watch, this update doesn’t affect you, but I am looking into the feasibility of potentially adding that compatibility in the future; however I’m not sure at this time if it will happen, and (if so) when. For those with an iPhone and Apple Watch, I hope that you enjoy this update!
Don’t have the Fuji X Weekly App? Download for free today!
July Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Pushed CineStill 800T
CineStill 800T is a Kodak Tungsten-balanced motion picture film (specifically, Vision3 500T) that has had the Remjet layer removed so that it can be processed in C41 chemistry. It’s intended for use in indoor artificial light and at night (but could be used anytime with the appropriate color correction filter). Awhile back I found some examples of CineStill 800T that had been shot during the day in overcast conditions and had been push-processed. I liked the picture aesthetics, so I set out to recreate it.
While this Film Simulation Recipe is intended for daytime photography (particularly on overcast days), it does really well at night, too. For the after-dark pictures in this article, I used a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter, but a 10% or 20% might have been more appropriate for replicating the emulsion. I do recommend the use of a diffusion filter for nighttime photography when shooting with this Recipe.
This Pushed CineStill 800T Recipe isn’t new, but simply a modification of the X-Trans IV version for use on X-Trans V cameras. Because X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, a tweak to Color Chrome FX Blue—selecting Weak instead of Strong—was necessary for my Fujifilm X-T5. This Film Simulation Recipe isn’t for everyone or every situation, but some of you will really appreciate it for certain pictures.
Film Simulation: Eterna Bleach Bypass Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: 7700K, -9 Red & +5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: +1.5 Color: +3 Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Pushed CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Flower Stems in Colored Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Playing Video Games – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Flowers on a Dreary Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Birdcage Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Green Tree on a Blue Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Grey – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Street Train – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hand Signal – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spin – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ice – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hair Chairs – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Mellow Mushroom Pizza – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
It’s summer and it’s hot. I live in Arizona, so when I say it’s hot, I mean that it feels like someone opened an oven door! Nobody wants to be outside during the day right now, so (like vampires) everyone comes out at night. Not that it’s all that much cooler at dusk—it’s still triple digits—but at least it’s more bearable. While it’s easy to look at the negative side of things, the positive aspect to the excessive heat is that opportunities for night photography are plentiful.
A few days ago I took my Fujifilm X-T5 to downtown Tempe for some after-dark photography. Attached to the camera was a Meike 35mm f/1.7 lens, and I had a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter screwed onto it. I like the Meike lens for its vintage-like character. I chose the 5% CineBloom because its effect is subtle. While the 10% or 20% might have been more appropriate for a couple of the Film Simulation Recipes, overall I appreciate what the 5% CineBloom does to the photographs, which is not much yet oftentimes just enough.
I programmed into my Fujifilm X-T5 eight different Film Simulation Recipes, and shot with all of them. How was I able to program eight? Well, obviously, there’s C1-C7. On the X-T5 (as well as my X-E4 and a few other newer models), you can program an additional Recipe into the IQ menu. As you scroll through C1-C7, when you’re in-between C7 and C1, the camera will display the shooting mode (either P, A, S, or M, depending on the configuration of your dials), and it will select the settings programmed into the IQ menu, giving you a bonus eighth custom preset.
I didn’t walk all that far with my camera—going down a few blocks on one side of the road, and then back up on the other side. It was dark, but still blazing hot. I did manage to capture a whole bunch of pictures, making sure that I had at least six decent exposures with each Recipe. Afterwards I cooled off with an ice cream shake at In-N-Out, a nice treat to beat the heat.
If you are searching for some Film Simulation Recipes to try out on a hot summer night, take a look at the eight below. They’re certainly not the only ones that are good for after-dark photography, but they are all excellent options, and have their own unique aesthetics. These eight Recipes are the ones that I used, and I invite you to try them, too, the next time you go out for some night photography.
Boat Shack at Sunset – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2
Fujicolor Super HG v2 is a highly versatile Film Simulation Recipe that—because it uses the Auto White Priority white balance—you can use anytime of the day or night. This is a Recipe that makes a lot of sense to always have programmed into your camera, since, no matter the light scenario, it’s going to give you good results. There’s an X-Trans V version of Fujicolor Super HG v2 (for those with an X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, or X-S20), and an X-Trans IV version of this Recipe (for those with an X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II).
Three Empty Seats – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Ektachrome 320T
While the previous Recipe used Auto White Priority, Ektachrome 320T uses Auto Ambiance Priority, but don’t let that fool you: this Recipe is intended for use at night or indoors under artificial light, where it works very well. Ektachrome 320T is compatible with some X-Trans IV models that have the Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulation (X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II); to use it on X-Trans V, simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong, since X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations.
Expired ECN-2 100T is currently a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe. If you are a subscriber on the App, you have access to this Film Simulation Recipe; otherwise, you’ll have to wait a little while for it to become available to everyone. This particular Recipe produces a green or yellow cast (depending on the light) when used at night, and a teal-ish cast when used in daylight. Like the previous Recipe, this one is compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras; to use it on X-Trans V models, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
Daily Jam at Night – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled
Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled isn’t intended specifically as a Film Simulation Recipe for nighttime photography, but because it is so versatile it works really well for this. It has a low-contrast, low-saturation rendering with an earthy cast. It’s really good for toning down a scene when you’d prefer a softer picture. Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
When I first learned that Xpro ’62 was great for after-dark photography, I was actually a little surprised, because this is intended as a daylight Recipe, and on paper it doesn’t seem versatile enough to be a good nighttime option. But it’s absolutely wonderful for night images! If you’ve never tried Xpro ’62 for post-sunset pictures, be sure to do so. It’s compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
The CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe is specifically intended for night photography, so it should be no surprise that it does well for after-dark pictures. If you want to even more closely mimic the film, try it with a 10% or 20% CineBloom diffusion filter. Like the previous two Recipes, CineStill 800T is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong. There is a version for X-Trans III cameras plus the X-T3 and X-T30, and a version for X-Trans II models.
The Pushed CineStill 800T Recipe is actually modeled after some pictures of the film that were captured in daylight on an overcast day. This Recipe wasn’t necessarily purposefully intended for night photography, but it shouldn’t be surprising that it does well for it. It also shouldn’t be too surprising that it renders noticeably different than the CineStill 800T Recipe above. Pushed CineStill 800T is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras that have Eterna Bleach Bypass (X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II; however, there is a version for the X-Pro3 and X100V); to use it on X-Trans V cameras, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
Neon Red – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Serr’s 500T
Last but far from least is Serr’s 500T, which is one of my absolute favorite nighttime Film Simulation Recipes. Due to its strong blue cast, this one is especially great for countering warm artificial light. Serr’s 500T is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Fujirumors is reporting that the Fujifilm X100V successor, which I’m calling the X100Z, will be announced in early 2024 (and they’re almost always right). Going by previous models, that means Fujifilm will announce the camera in either late-January or early-February, and it will likely ship in late-February or early-March.
That’s good news, especially if you’ve been trying to get an X100V but just can’t. Reinforcements are coming soon enough, and the wait will be over before you know it.
Here are some issues, though. If you’ve been patiently waiting for an X100V, and you’ve been on a backorder list for months and months—are you going to be happy when your X100V ships just a little prior to the announcement of the new model? The X100V is great, so I hope that the timing won’t sour your opinions or experience, but it might. Or this: will those on the waitlist for the X100V be given priority for the X100Z? Let’s say you’ve been waiting six months for your X100V and it hasn’t shipped. Suddenly the X100Z is announced. Will the store offer to bump you to the top of the preorder list for the new model? I know of one store that told me this will be their plan. Is it fair to those who don’t have an X100V on backorder but who preorder the X100Z within minutes of its announcement, but can’t get their camera shipped timely because others jumped the line from the X100V? It could be that you’ll have to cancel your long-awaited order and place a new one for the new camera, getting in a whole different line, possibly not at the top. Is that fair? I don’t have any answers, I’m just posing the questions—it’s something that Fujifilm and camera stores will have to carefully consider and tread lightly with.
I don’t know what Fujifilm will call the next X100-series model, but I’m betting on X100Z. Why? First, it sounds cool. Second, “Z” (Zeta) is the sixth letter in the Greek alphabet, and this will be the sixth iteration of the camera. Third, Fujifilm used Z in some of their film emulsion names, such as Fujicolor Pro 800Z. It makes a lot of sense to me, so that’s why I think it’s what they’ll choose. But I have no idea.
I don’t believe Fujifilm will bring very many changes to the new model. The X100-series doesn’t evolve much. I do believe it will include the 40-megapixel X-Trans V sensor and processor. Some want the 26mp stacked sensor of the X-H2s, and some want the X-Trans IV sensor of the X100V. While anything is possible, I would be pretty darn surprised if it isn’t the 40-megapixel sensor. Due to the fixed-focal-length limitation, having more resolution offers more versatility. Also, Fujifilm could give us the X-Pan 65:24 aspect ratio (Fujifilm: hint, hint)….
Speaking of that, the Digital Teleconverters will benefit from the 40mp sensor, and Fujifilm could even include a third option, something like 80mm or possibly 85mm. I hope, though, that they fix the problem of the faux Grain not scaling. As it is now, the Grain appears huge when using the 70mm Digital Teleconverter; however, it should scale so that it is the same size as when not using the Digital Teleconverter.
Another potential benefit of the 40mp sensor would be digital image stabilization for video. Some sort of hyper-smooth digital cropping that still renders 4K would make the camera more useful for videography. I know that a lot of people want IBIS, but I’d be surprised if Fujifilm put it into this model. Who knows, maybe they will (and it would certainly make the new model an upgrade), but if I were betting money, I’d say that the X100Z doesn’t have IBIS.
I think bringing back the four-way D-Pad on the back would be a nice touch. I believe that Fujifilm was trying to move away from it, but there was a lot of outcry from the community. That’s something Fujifilm could do to differentiate the X100Z from the X100V and make a lot of people happy.
I suspect that whatever part or parts Fujifilm was having difficulty securing in order to manufacture more copies of the X100V, will be replaced by some alternative(s) that will more easily be available. How that affects the camera, I have no idea. Maybe a slightly different rear LCD? I’m sure I’m in the minority here, but I’d actually prefer no rear screen, or maybe just the little box-top rear screen like on the X-Pro3. Maybe a slightly different viewfinder? Whatever it is, I’m sure there will be something different that allows the camera to be more readily produced.
The most obvious thing that Fujifilm could do—and they absolutely should do—with the X100Z is introduce a new film simulation. I don’t know if Fujifilm realizes just how important film sims and Film Simulation Recipes are for camera sales and customer retention. If they do end up naming the camera X100Z, then a Fujicolor Pro 800Z-inspired (maybe called PRO Neg. Z) film sim would make a lot of sense; otherwise, Fujicolor Pro 400H (that with overexposure behaves similarly to the film), Fujichrome Sensia, Fujichrome Fortia, cross-process, infrared, Instax, and Neopan 400CN are a few other ideas. Obviously, Eterna Bleach Bypass and Nostalgia Neg. will also be included in the new camera.
Beyond that, I don’t think there will be a whole lot of differences between the X100V and X100Z. They will be much more alike than dissimilar. I said, though, that we were going to dream, so let’s throw some wild ideas out there, and see if any of them happen to come to pass.
My first wild idea is that Fujifilm uses an APS-H sensor instead of APS-C. I have no idea if the camera’s lens has APS-H coverage—my guess is that it does not—but if by chance it does, I believe that the current 40mp chip cut to APS-H size would be about 60mp (that may not be accurate… let me know if I got my calculation wrong). The 1.3 crop factor would make the lens 30mm full-frame equivalent. On paper the X100Z would be more similar to the Leica Q3, but at a fraction of the cost—it would be the Q3 killer!
Next, an interesting idea someone suggested was that the IR filter, which normally is directly on the sensor, could be moved next to the ND filter, and—like the ND filter—it could be enabled and disabled. In other words, with the push of a button, your X100Z could convert to full-spectrum! The lens has, apparently, an IR hot-spot in the center, but maybe it’s something Fujifilm could correct in-camera (similar to vignetting). It’s a crazy idea, but would be super cool!
I mentioned IBIS already, stating that I don’t think it’s likely to happen, but if Fujifilm can include it on the X100Z with minimal effect on size, weight, heat, and cost, that would be amazing! I hope they can, but I doubt they will. We can dream, though, right?
Of course, I’d love to see a monochrome-only version. If Fujifilm doesn’t do it with an X100-series body, they should do it with an X-Pro model. In other words, Fujifilm should definitely make an Acros-version of one of their cameras, and the X100 is a logical option.
How about three different versions, each with a different focal length? Sigma did something like this with their DP line. There could be 18mm, 23mm, and 33mm options, each identical, except for the focal length.
Fujifilm could also make special edition models, like Dura Silver or brown leather or something like that. It would have to be really well done and not cheesy. Charge a little extra for these variations.
That’s all I have. What crazy ideas can you think of for the upcoming X100Z (or whatever Fujifilm will call it)? Let me know in the comments!
Because I’m one of the more knowledgable people in the Fujifilm community when it comes to the ins and outs of camera settings, I’m constantly asked how-to type questions. I’m always happy to help, but I have to say, most of the time the answers are easily found in the owner’s manual. You mean that boring technical book packaged with my camera? Yes, exactly. Thankfully, Fujifilm has made them available online, and most of the manuals are easily navigated and even searchable. Digging into the owner’s manual for your camera has never been easier. Can’t find the answer with a Google search? I bet you can find it in the manual pretty quickly and painlessly. That really should be everyone’s starting point.
Not everyone will look through the manual, or maybe you did and still can’t find the answer. I decided to take this opportunity to answer the 10 most common how-to questions that I receive. Maybe you are searching for the answer and Google brought you here. My hope is that this article will be helpful to some of you as you’re trying to figure things out on your Fujifilm camera.
1. How to program a Film Simulation Recipe
I’m most known for Film Simulation Recipes—I have published pretty darn close to 300, which you can find on this website and the Fuji X Weekly App—so it shouldn’t be surprising that I’m asked about it the most. Programming Film Simulation Recipes into your Fujifilm camera is easy, once you’ve done it once or twice. While the process is similar across the range, not every camera is exactly the same, so you’ll want to review the Image Quality (IQ) Menu section of your manual, and also Edit/Save Custom Settings (not all Fujifilm cameras have this, but most do).
Sometimes that’s not enough, so here’s the quick answer: if your camera has C1-C7 (or C1-C4) Custom Presets (most models do, but the Bayer models and a couple of the really old cameras don’t), press the Q-button, then press-and-hold the Q-button, and the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu will appear (except on a couple of the really old models). That’s where you can enter the parameters (or most of the parameters) of a Recipe. Alternatively, and for those cameras without C1-C7, you can enter the parameters by pressing Menu/OK, then adjusting the appropriate settings, which are found in the IQ subset.
You should now be good to go. Once you’ve done it a few times, it will be a piece of cake.
This is simple: the drive mode must be set to Single frame (S) in order to use Clarity. Your camera will disable Clarity for any continuous shooting (burst) mode, HDR, or bracket. If you find Clarity greyed out, set your camera’s drive mode to Single frame (S).
This is another simple answer: the Dynamic Range options are ISO dependent. If DR200 and/or DR400 are not available, simply increase the ISO. For X-Trans III and older, a minimum ISO of 400 is required for DR200 and a minimum ISO of 800 is required for DR400. For X-Trans IV, ISO 320 is required for DR200 and ISO 640 is required for DR400. For X-Trans V, ISO 250 is required for DR200 and ISO 500 is required for DR400. Make sure the minimum ISO threshold has been met for the Dynamic Range setting you are attempting to use.
4. How to set Highlight & Shadow with D-Range Priority
This one can be a little confusing. In my Recipes, D-Range Priority should always be set to Off unless otherwise stated. Most Recipes do not use D-Range Priority, but a few do. Sometimes D-Range Priority is confused with the Dynamic Range settings (DR100, DR200, DR400), but they are two separate things. When you enable D-Range Priority, it is in lieu of Dynamic Range, Highlight, and Shadow, so those three options will not be available to select. In other words, you can either use Dynamic Range (such as DR200) and the Tone Curve (Highlight and Shadow) or you can use D-Range Priority, but you can’t do both options simultaneously. Also, like Dynamic Range, D-Range Priority is ISO dependent.
This used to be the most asked question, but not so much lately. I wrote an article about it almost three years ago, so if you are stuck, be sure to check it out (click here). The simple answer: find the White Balance submenu in the IQ menu subset, highlight the desired White Balance option, then arrow-to-the-right to open the White Balance Shift menu for that particular WB type. Cameras older than the X-Pro3—X-Trans I, II, III, and the X-T3 & X-T30—cannot save a WB Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets, but the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, and X-Trans V can. If you have a model that cannot save a WB Shift within the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu, I did publish a solution that you might find helpful (click here). Models that can save the WB Shift offer a much improved experience.
Like film, many Film Simulation Recipes are intended for use in a particular light, mostly sunny daylight. When used in the “wrong” light, you might not get desirable results, and your pictures could come out yellow. My best advice is to use the right Recipe for the lighting situation that you find yourself in, or pick an Auto White Balance Recipe, which are usually more versatile.
7. How to shoot with a manual lens
I like manual lenses, whether it’s classic film gear or inexpensive third-party glass. They often have great character, which is missing in most precision-engineered modern lenses. Fujifilm has a weird quirk where you have to find Shoot Without Lens in the Menu (and it’s not always in an easy-to-spot location), or else the camera won’t let you capture a picture with one of these lenses attached. Once enabled, you can use manual lenses, but if disabled, your camera won’t capture a picture. If you cannot find it, look for Shoot Without Lens in your camera’s owner’s manual, and it will instruct you where to find it.
8. How to set Exposure Compensation
I’m surprised by how often this question comes up, and I think it’s because each Recipe lists a typical exposure compensation, usually with a range, such as +1/3 to +1. First, the suggested exposure compensation is simply meant as a starting point and is not a rule; each exposure should be judged individually, and you might need to use an exposure comp that’s outside of my recommendation. Second, if you are shooting full manual, think about how much you might need to increase or decrease the exposure over what the light meter is telling you in order to achieve the desired results—you aren’t using the exposure comp dial, so you’ll be manually doing it yourself with the aperture/shutter/ISO triangle. Third, you cannot set an exposure comp range or save exposure compensation to the C1-C7 Custom Presets. Fourth, Exposure Compensation, with rare exceptions, is found on a dial on top of the camera: +1 equals one f-stop, and the dots in-between equal 1/3 stops.
X-Trans III Film Simulation Recipes can indeed be used on X-Trans IV models. For the X-T3 and X-T30, simply set Color Chrome Effect to Off; for the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II, additionally set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choose a Grain size (either Small or Large)—do this also for adapting X-T3/X-T30 Recipes to the newer models. X-Trans IV Recipes can technically be used on X-Trans V, but, because blue renders more deeply on some film simulations, you should make an adjustment to Color Chrome FX Blue: if the X-Trans IV Recipe calls for CCEB set to Strong use Weak on X-Trans V, and if it calls for Weak use Off. This is for Recipes that use Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass; for the other films sims, no adjustment is needed.
Most of the Film Simulation Recipes made for the newer models use Clarity; however, if Clarity is set to anything other than 0 it will cause a storing pause. I use this pause, which is about the same amount of time as advancing to the next frame on a film camera, to slow myself down, which I think is beneficial. If you are in a hurry, this pause can be annoying, and you might want to avoid it. So what are your options? You could forget Clarity and just accept the results for what they are. Switching to a burst mode, such as Continuous Low (CL), will disable Clarity; if you shoot RAW+JPEG, you could reprocess in-camera (or X RAW Studio) and add Clarity after the fact (this is Fujifilm’s recommendation). If a Recipe calls for minus Clarity, you could use a diffusion filter, such as CineBloom or Black Pro Mist, to produce a similar effect (5% CineBloom and 1/8 BPM are roughly equivalent to -1 & -2 Clarity, 10% CineBloom and 1/4 BPM are roughly equivalent to -3 & -4 Clarity, and 20% CineBloom and 1/2 BPM are roughly equivalent to -5 Clarity); however, there is no substitution for plus Clarity.
Those are the 10 most common how-to type questions I get asked. Hopefully this article will be helpful to a few of you who are searching for answers. Don’t be afraid to ask if you are still stuck with whatever issue you’re facing with your Fujifilm cameras. I don’t work for Fujifilm so I can’t guarantee an answer, but I’ll try to help if I can. I just ask that you attempt to find the answer in your camera’s owner’s manual first, because you probably don’t actually need my help; however, if you do, I’m happy to try.
Small Windmill – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Superia 100
Fujicolor Superia 100 was a daylight-balanced color negative film produced by Fujifilm between 1998 and 2009. It replaced Fujicolor Super G Plus 100, which, honestly, didn’t look all that much different. Superia 100 had improved grain, sharpness, and more accurate color under florescent light; under normal conditions, and without a very close inspection, the two films looked nearly identical. Superia 100 was a “consumer” film that was widely found in drug and convenient stores. It was regularly used for family snapshots, but was also popular among photojournalists, as well as portrait and wedding photographers. Superia 100 was marketed as a “general use” low-ISO color film. Like the film, this Fujicolor Superia 100 Film Simulation Recipe could serve as a general-use option.
This Film Simulation Recipe has fairly low contrast—but not too low—and produces very nice colors. It has a nostalgic quality to it, since the film that it’s based on was widely used for family snapshots in the 1990’s and 2000’s. You can use it for portraits or street photography or landscapes—really, it’s good for most situations. Like the film, in indoor artificial light it will render especially warm, which you might or might not appreciate. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, and X-S20. For newer GFX models, you can use either version, but I’m sure it will look slightly different than an the X series.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, 0 Red & -1 Blue Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Highlight: -1 Shadow: -2 Color: +1 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor Superia 100 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Red Bike – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Taillight – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Snooze – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon with a Camera – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water & Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spiderweb Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Greens of Summer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Birdcage Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Americana Girl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Backlit Girl in the Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea Blooms of Summer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blooms Above Blocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tiny Purple Backyard Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Flowerpot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Love Lost – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Concentration – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hanging Lamps – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Coffee – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Photography is moving in a clear direction, and it is unedited. Let me explain.
There’s a new photography trend on the iPhone. Instead of using the front-facing camera to take selfies, people are taking screen shots of the preview from the selfie camera. Why? What’s the difference? The pipeline for the image preview and the actual photographs are different on the iPhone. Most notably, Apple applies an HDR processing to the exposure (but not the preview), which creates a less-contrasty picture. If you are going to apply a filter to the photo and edit it, having a flatter starting point makes sense; however, if you are not editing, one might prefer the more-contrasty image preview. Aside from that, it can be frustrating that the preview doesn’t match the photograph.
My RitchieCam iPhone camera app uses the same pipeline for both the image processing and the preview, so it doesn’t have this issue. The preview you see will be the picture you get. No need to screenshot, which produces a much-lower resolution image. Those using my camera app (instead of the native iPhone app) won’t need to go through the hassle of the screen shot (plus cropping out the non-image part); instead, they’ll have better quality pictures with an analog-inspired aesthetic to post to social media.
Photo by Amanda Roesch – iPhone 13 Pro – RitchieCam App – Standard Film filter – unedited
Of course, we’re not talking about photographers here, but snap-shooters, as I doubt that anyone who would self-identify as a photographer is taking screenshots instead of using the camera. It shouldn’t be surprising that they’re uninterested in picture manipulation, and just want good results without fuss. Maybe they don’t know how to edit pictures, and the idea of doing so is very intimidating, so they have no interest in learning. It could be that they don’t want to spend their time with picture editing, and just want to share (either through text or social media) their snaps quickly—the easier the better, but the pictures still need to look decent. Others don’t edit because doing so seems less authentic; Photoshop is a bad word, and picture-manipulation equals people-manipulation. Let’s not forget that the vast majority of photos captured across the world are by amateurs, so their opinions, preferences, and trends do matter.
For the advanced-hobbyist or professional, surely photo manipulation is a requirement, right? There’s a growing movement towards reduced (or even eliminated) photo editing. First, the less time spent sitting at a computer equals more production and/or more time with friends and family. For a lot of people, for every hour out with a camera photographing means two hours in Lightroom or Capture One fiddling with the RAW files; if those two hours can be reduced by 50% or more (especially more), that’s a huge win! Second, shooting camera-made JPEGs affords the advantage of knowing exactly what you’re going to get before even pressing the shutter. Don’t like what you see? Simply make a few quick adjustments until you do, then take the picture. Not having to pre-visualize in your mind the finished photo, but seeing it right there in the viewfinder in real time, is a game-changer for many. Third, getting great (often analog-like) results straight-out-of-camera can be a much more fun photographic process, especially if you don’t enjoy sitting for hours at a computer post-processing pictures.
I used to shoot RAW and edit, but thanks to Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes, I now use unedited (or sometimes lightly-edited) camera-made JPEGs. I will crop or straighten when needed, which is the majority of my post-processing; occasionally I will adjust the brightness a notch, but very rarely do I manipulate any further than that. Most of my pictures are unedited, even to a strict definition. This has changed my life, no hyperbole! My post workflow takes minutes instead of hours, which has made me a much more productive photographer while simultaneously improving home-life, because I can now spend more time with my wife and kids. That’s amazing!
Pacific Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues – unedited
For example, on a recent trip to the California coast, during the downtimes—such as while at lunch, as a passenger in a car, or at night before bed—I transferred the JPEGs from my cameras to my phone, cropped if needed, and uploaded to cloud storage. A few minutes here and there meant that, by the time I got home, my workflow was essentially already complete. For most photographers, once back home the work would just be getting started, with many hours sitting at a computer.
But, but, but… surely the unedited camera-made JPEGs are not good enough for serious photography, right? You couldn’t do true professional work like this, could you? You can’t print very large and still look stunning, can you? Actually, yes—you can! I know because several successful professional photographers have told me that this is how they now do their paid work. You’d be surprised by just how many are doing some or even all of their pro photo work completely unedited or just lightly edited.
It’s not just photographers who benefit from a simplified workflow, but clients. Because of social media, people often desire to have a quick turnaround on their professional photographs. The newlywed couple doesn’t want to wait two weeks for the wedding pictures to be done, and in fact their parents wished for them that very day! If you can deliver the images quickly, you have a clear advantage over your competition.
In fact, Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry told me about two recent corporate events where the client wanted the photos as the event was happening! Periodically, every so many minutes throughout the day, she would download the straight-out-of-camera images from her camera to her phone, then upload them to a cloud location that the client had access to. As the event was happening, they were able to share the pictures to their social media accounts. Delivering real-time results to the client is going to be the future of event photography. Nathalie was able to do this thanks to the Film Simulation Recipes that she had programmed into her Fujifilm cameras.
Whether it is professional, hobby, or snap-shooting, photography is slowly and stubbornly moving towards less editing. It is easier and quicker and more fun, the disadvantages of it are disappearing, and the stigmatization is dissipating. More and more, people want great results without fuss. Editing is no longer a requirement, especially if you have gear that will deliver solid out-of-camera pictures, such as Fujifilm cameras or the RitchieCam app.
The next battle will be AI. Technology allows one to simulate a photograph with a string of words, or add to an image what wasn’t there—all with a similar ease to shooting camera-made JPEGs. It will come down to authenticity. I believe that as tech pushes us towards an augmented or even fully artificial reality, society will push back with an equal and opposite force towards the genuine. People will generally prefer authenticity over artificial, but it will be a divide. Camera makers should carefully consider how to move forward through all of this, and how they can improve their straight-out-of-camera experience. Fujifilm has a clear advantage, which materialized in the recent explosion in demand for the X100V. A simplified workflow with less editing or even no editing is the future of photography, and the future is now.
The July issue of FXW Zine is out now! Creative Collective subscribers can download it today. Not a Creative Collective subscriber? Join to gain access to this issue plus all pervious issues of FXW Zine and the many bonus articles.
In Issue 20 I describe how I used my Fujifilm X100V to replicate the aesthetic of small Kodak negatives. It includes 26 pictures (including the cover) spread across 20 pages.
Note: This was a Creative Collective article, but it is now available to everyone.
Click the link below to open the .pdf. Once open, to save the file to your computer depends on the browser you are using—look for the save icon, or you might have to select “File” at the top (each browser is different).
Fujifilm couldn’t make enough copies of the camera to keep up with the newfound demand. The X100V was out-of-stock everywhere. The backorder list quickly grew long. A large camera store told me months ago that if there were no new orders, and at the current rate that Fujifilm was manufacturing the X100V, it would take them six months just to fulfill all of those backorders; however, the backorder list was growing faster than Fujifilm was delivering new cameras.
Some of those who did have an X100V—even a used one—were selling them at significantly inflated prices. I saw one listed at $1,000 above MSRP in one instance. And people were actually buying them! The price for older versions, such as the X100F, but going back all the way to the 12-year-old original X100, also increased and became more difficult to find. Even other Fujifilm series, such as the X-E line (and even Ricoh GR), saw a bump in demand as people looked for alternatives to the X100V.
Yellow Kayaks, White Trucks – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
It’s been about nine months since the craze began and it hasn’t slowed. The X100V has been an in-demand model during that time, but Fujifilm just can’t keep up with it, due to things like parts shortages and balancing manufacturing demands with the also-hot-selling X-T5. Ideally Fujifilm would have been able to truly capitalize on their fortuitous situation, but they really haven’t. Perhaps the only thing that Fujifilm has been able to do is continue to limp the manufacturing of this model a little longer than they originally anticipated, delaying the discontinuation date by as much as a year.
When you look at the history of the X100-series, a release pattern emerges. The X100S came out about two years after the original X100, the X100T came out about two years after the X100S, and the X100F was released about two years after the X100T; however, the X100V was released three years after the X100F, and we’re already beyond the three-year-mark since the X100V came out. I believe that Fujifilm would have liked to have announced the next X100-series camera, which I’ll call the X100Z, back in February, but that obviously didn’t happen. I anticipate that it will be February 2024.
Why didn’t it happen in 2023? The X100V is selling faster than they can be made. What’s the hurry in releasing a successor? I do believe the issues that plagued not only Fujifilm but also most of the tech industry are still problematic to an extent, and this gives Fujifilm more time to get their parts supply and manufacturing operations back on track. I bet Fujifilm is hoping to make just enough copies of the X100V to give a glimmer of hope that one can be obtained with enough patience—and that the buzz continues for a bit longer—but not so many that the demand is deflated when the X100Z (or whatever Fujifilm will call it) is announced in eight months or so. Honestly, Fujifilm should release one or two limited-run special-edition X100V versions between now and then.
Flare over a Log– Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor 100 Gold
The X100-series doesn’t change much with a new release. The improvements are just enough to make you desire the new model, but are never groundbreaking. There’s not going to be a redesign. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. What can we expect in an X100Z? What do I wish for?
I do believe the biggest “upgrade” will be the 40-megapixel X-Trans V sensor and processor. While I actually prefer the 26-megapixel sensor in general (as 40mp is overkill for most people), as I’ve thought about it, this sensor makes a lot of sense in an X100 because of the Digital Teleconverter, something I used far more frequently on my recent trip to California’s Central Coast than I had at any point in the two years prior. The X100V has 35mm full-frame-equivalent lens, and the Digital Teleconverter, which is a digital zoom with some smart upscaling, produces a 50mm-equivalent or 70mm-equivalent picture, adding versatility to the fixed-lens camera. There is a noticeable loss in quality when set to 70mm, but it’s still surprisingly good; however, the 40mp sensor would make this feature better and more practical for routine use. In fact, Fujifilm could even add 80mm if they wanted. The one thing I’d like Fujifilm to fix with regards to the Digital Teleconverter is scale the faux Grain, because Strong/Large Grain looks massive when using the 70mm option, but it should appear to be the same size as if the Digital Teleconverter wasn’t used.
The new sensor and processor will bring several improvements to the spec sheet for both stills and video. Autofocus will see a boost. In an age of diminishing returns, I don’t think any of that makes a big difference, but the marketing department will still use it to promote the camera and reviewers will still use it to get clicks and likes.
Playing with Waves – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Will the X100Z have IBIS? Fujifilm has made some significant strides with their In-Body-Image-Stabilization, but I’d be mildly surprised if the new model has it. The argument is that the Ricoh GR III has IBIS, and it’s a much older and smaller camera, so why can’t the X100-series? First, IBIS isn’t really needed in the GR III and it’s pretty mediocre anyway, so it’s often overstated as a feature in that model. I do think it makes more sense in the X100-series than in the Ricoh, but if it makes the body larger or more expensive, Fujifilm will have to carefully consider the potential consequences of that. I think, with the higher-resolution sensor, a digital stabilizer for video would be sufficient.
What I would love to see in the Fujifilm X100Z are more film simulations and JPEG options. Of course that’s what I’d love to see, since I make Film Simulation Recipes. What I don’t think Fujifilm or the photography community in-general realizes is that the ability to get analog-like results straight-out-of-camera is what’s largely driving the interest in the X100V. While many long-time Fujifilm photographers purchased the X100V, for a lot of people the camera is (or would be if they could find one in stock) their first Fujifilm—whether they mainly shoot Canon, Sony, Nikon, etc., or it’s their first “real” camera—and it makes a lot of sense because it doesn’t require investing in a whole system. They can get their feet wet with something fun, and maybe later they’ll jump into the deep end. In the meantime, they’ve got a cool camera that doesn’t require sitting in front of a computer to get great results. Not only does this drive camera sales, but it is also a big reason why many end up sticking around and not moving onto something else.
Spooner Cove – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor 100 Gold
So what would I like Fujifilm to add to the X100Z? Obviously Eterna Bleach Bypass and Nostalgic Neg. will be included, but I think Fujifilm should strongly consider introducing a new film sim with this camera. Some ideas are Fujicolor Pro 400H (that with overexposure behaves similarly to the film), Fujicolor Pro 800Z (would make a lot of sense if they name the camera X100Z), Fujichrome Sensia, Fujichrome Fortia, cross-process, infrared, Instax, Neopan 400CN, etc.—there are still a ton that Fujifilm could and should do. Some JPEG options that I’d like to see are mid-tone adjustments (additional to Highlight and Shadow), black-point (a.k.a. fade, to lift blacks), split-toning (for both B&W and color pictures), more Grain options (Weak, Medium, Strong; Small, Medium, Large, Extra-Large; plus maybe various patters?), and maybe even a tint slider for the major colors to tweak their rendering? I think Fujifilm has to be careful balancing new features with simplicity, so that the many options don’t become overwhelming—in other words, pick a couple of things to add and not everything, as much as I’d love to have everything.
The X100Z will be a very successful camera for Fujifilm, and for a lot of people standing in the long line for an X100V, this new model can’t get here fast enough. There won’t likely be a huge difference between the two versions—just the new sensor and some new features, but it will nonetheless be a nice refresh. While it might seem to be a long ways off, Fujifilm will announce this camera in the not-too-distant future, and it will be here before you know it. In the meantime, I’ve included below a video published today by Leigh & Raymond Photography that discusses this very topic.
Day 5, Part 1 — June 9, 2023 — Morro Bay, Cayucos, Harmony & Cambria
I’ve been asked by several of you, “What’s Ken Rockwell like?”
He’s been quite popular for a very long time, as Ken Rockwell’s website is one of the longest running in all of photography. He’s a controversial character, and people seem to either love or hate him. On this day, because we were assigned to the same car, I had the opportunity to spend a significant amount of time with him, and we talked about a lot of things. To a limited extent, I got to know the real Ken Rockwell.
Ken was born and raised in New York City. Like a stereotypical New Yorker, he has an opinion that he’s not afraid to share. He tells it like it is; don’t expect anything to be sugarcoated. He’s honest. He’s very knowledgeable—when he’s interested in something, he dives deeply into it and becomes an expert. He asks a lot of questions, and you can tell he’s a logical person. Ken’s also very funny, with a dry humor that often utilizes sarcasm.
Those who hate Ken Rockwell (yes, hate is a strong word, but it’s often used in this context) seem to either be put off by his strong opinions, dislike something controversial he said, don’t believe he’s a good photographer, or are jealous of his success. To the first, I’ll say this: Ken is upfront about where he stands. Sometimes two people can look at the same thing and come to opposite conclusions; it’s always ok to agree to disagree. To the second, I’ll say this: without nonverbal cues, deciphering when someone on a website is stating opinion vs. making a sarcastic joke can be difficult, so if something sounds offensive, perhaps it wasn’t said in seriousness, and the benefit of the doubt should be given. I would caution against running with assumptions. If you want to know for sure, just ask! Ken is a nice guy who I’m sure would answer your questions. To the third, I’ll say this: every artist has strengths and weaknesses. I actually had a conversation with Dave Wyman about this. Ken’s photographic strengths are capturing striking colors, making the ordinary appear interesting, and in-studio product pictures. To the fourth, I’ll say this: haters are going to hate, I suppose. Just because someone else is successful and you are not doesn’t mean that you’ll never be, or that they don’t deserve to be.
Ice Flower & Chain Link – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
I enjoyed interacting with Ken on this trip, and learned several things from him about the photography industry. The conversations were very insightful, and Ken was kind to share his knowledge and experiences with me. Anyone who thinks he is a bad person has not met him in-person.
With all of that out of the way, let’s get to the first part of Day 5 of the Central Coast of California tour!
We met up once again at a hotel in San Luis Obispo. Because it was forecasted to be overcast, we began a little later than the day before. We loaded up into a few cars, and caravanned up the Pacific Coast Highway. The first stop was at a beach on the north end of Morro Bay, followed by Cayucos, which is a cool little coastal community. Then we visited Harmony, a tiny tourist town that would be easy to overlook, but is actually quite interesting, photogenic, and tasty (if, like me, you enjoy ice cream). Afterwards, we turned down an unassuming road near Cambria and drove way back into the hills, where we found some abandoned antique cars.
What’s crazy about the cars is that after winding down this barely used backroad for miles, we parked and walked up a side road (if you can even call it a road), then up a barely visible steep trail to the top of a hill. Once your eyes crest the top, you see the cars; otherwise, they’re hidden. I asked Dave, “How did you even find this place?” He answered, “As I was exploring the road, I saw a glint of light. It was just for a moment. So I came up here to find out what it was.” The cars are on private property, but Dave befriended the owner, a legit fifth generation rancher who’s great-great-grandfather settled the land before California was even a state.
Old Window Blinds – San Luis Obispo, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
The photographs below are in order of when they were captured. The picture at the top of this article, Abandoned Classics, fits in-between Classic Oak and Dodge, Didn’t Dodge. The second image, Ice Flower & Chain Link, fits in-between Ken & Dave and Classic Rear Fender. The third image, Old Window Blinds, was the first photograph of the day.
Morro Rock Behind Sand Dune – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Ken & Dave – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
My personal favorite of these four is Urban Dreams, which has a Kodachrome 200 vibe. Especially during overcast conditions and blue-hour, this is a Recipe that I really enjoy using—I shot a lot with it on my coastal trip. Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1 is my second favorite, which is good for sunny days when you want colors to pop. My third favorite is Vivid Summer Glow, which has some similarities to the Kodachrome II Recipe, but I like Kodachrome II better. Last and least, Soft Blue Classic does alright when the sun is high and the light is warm, but overall I didn’t like it very much.
The next SOOC Live broadcast will be this coming Thursday, June 29th, at 10:00 AM Pacific Time, 1:00 PM Eastern. We’ll finish our discussion of these four AI-made Film Simulation Recipes, and much more. I hope that you can join us, because it’s an interactive program, and your participation makes it better!
During the last SOOC Live show, we challenged you to shoot with these four ChatGPT Film Simulation Recipes. I hope that you’ve had fun trying them! As a reminder, you have until tomorrow (June 27th) to upload your pictures captured with these Recipes (click here) for the next show, so you’ll want to do so quickly if you haven’t already. Be sure to include the name of the Recipe used in the file name, so that we can keep track of which is which.
I hope to see you on Thursday!
Pacific Cove – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1
Lower Sea Cliff – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – “Soft Blue Classic”
Wave Crashing on Rock – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – “Vivid Summer Glow”
House on the Seaside Cliffs – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Urban Dreams
Vintage Barn – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – 1981 Kodak Recipe
My wife, Amanda, recently ran across some old family pictures in her mom’s photo box. These prints were made in July of 1981—a date stamped on the back—and printed on Kodak paper. The other technical details are unknown, but most likely they were captured with a cheap point-and-shoot of some sort (possibly even a 110 camera) with Kodacolor II color negative film, which was the most popular amateur emulsion of that era. Due to age and improper storage, the prints are fading, with a pronounced orange (sometimes yellow, sometimes red) cast, and colors overall less vibrant than they once were. The set was mostly personal family pictures, and many of them were scratched and damaged, but I did scan two of the prints, which you’ll find below.
I thought that the aesthetic was interesting, so I began to develop a Film Simulation Recipe inspired by these photographs. It took a couple of days, and a few compromises, but I was able to create a look that mimics the general feel of those old pictures made in 1981 and printed on Kodak paper—the reason why I call this Recipe 1981 Kodak.
Scan from print
Scan from print
This 1981 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with “newer” Fujifilm X-Trans IV cameras: Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. For X-Trans V, because some film sims render blue more deeply, it will look slightly different. For the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30, ignore Grain size and Color Chrome FX Blue, and use a diffusion filter (such as a 10% or 20% CineBloom) in lieu of Clarity.
The Fuji X Weekly App is free, yet becoming a Fuji X Weekly Patron unlocks the best App experience! One benefit of being a Patron is you get early access to some new Film Simulation Recipes. These Early-Access Recipes will eventually become available free to everyone in time, including this new one. In fact, many Early-Access Recipes have already been publicly published on this Blog and the App, so now everyone can use them. Patrons help support Fuji X Weekly and, really, without them there would be no App. So I want to give a special “thank you” to all of the Patrons!
Find 1981 Kodak in the Fuji X Weekly App! If you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, it’s available to you right now.
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this 1981 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Coastal Hills – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Dilapidated Barn – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Rural Rancher – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Tree Fallen on Abandoned Car – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Old Ford – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Classic Grill – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Tree-Covered Road – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Light over Fallen Tree – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Sawed Log – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Cliffs of Pismo – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Ken Rockwell & ’61 Pontiac Tempest – Cayucos, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Old Van – Cayucos, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Classic Rear Fender – Cayucos, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Beach Boys – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Mrs. Peacock – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Guitar Neck – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Drummer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Corner – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Suburban Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Red Blossom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – Expired Velvia Recipe
Film has an expiration date. Typically two years after it was manufactured, unused film starts to degrade, and the results will be different. Freezing film prolongs the degenerative process, making it possible to get good results years after expiring. Film should be developed within a day or two of use, but you’re ok to wait a few weeks or even months if stored in a refrigerator. Most photographers take care to use their film before the expiration date, and to thoughtfully store their film in a dark, cool place, but some don’t. There are even some photographers who purposefully seek out film that is well-expired and/or stored incorrectly, just for the unpredictable and unusual results that one might get—there is a bit of serendipity to the style, which can be desirable.
This Film Simulation Recipe, called Expired Velvia, came about after a Fuji X Weekly reader shared with me some photographs that he had captured on long-expired Velvia 50 color reversal film. He didn’t have the lab adjust the development time for the expired film, so they were all underexposed (at least a little); however, they turned out really interesting, with an aesthetic that leaned more towards Superia than Velvia. This Recipe does a great job of mimicking that look!
If you are searching for a Film Simulation Recipe that’s a little different, this is one to try! It’s definitely not for everyone, but some of you will love it. It’s compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. For X-Trans V models, you can use this Recipe, but because blue is rendered more deeply on some film simulations, the results will be slightly different. This Recipe was an App Patron Early-Access Recipe, but it has been replaced by a new one, so if you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, be sure to look for that new Early-Access Recipe in the App!
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 6400K, -1 Red & +8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +2 Shadow: -2 Color: +3 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -4 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1 to -1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Expired Velvia Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4 and Fujifilm X100V cameras:
Dodge, Didn’t Dodge – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Dena Boat – Morro Bay, California – Fujifilm X100V
In the Same Boat – Cayucos, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Help Protect – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Light Post – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4
Hotel Door – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Restaurant – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Webs We Weave – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4
Outdoor Chair Cushion – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4
Jo Playing with Roly Polies – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4
A Boy & His Fishing Pole – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4
Covered Boat Dock – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4
Lake Houses – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4
‘Bout to Blossom – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Wet Rose – Ridgedale, MO – Fujifilm X-E4
Triangles – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4
Fenced Sun – Amarillo, TX – Fujifilm X-E4
A Whale of a Sunset – Branson, MO – Fujifilm X-E4
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
Day 4, Part 2 — June 8, 2023 — Avila Beach, San Luis Obispo, Montaña de Oro & Pismo Beach
Buckle up! Part 2 of Day 4 was very busy, and I captured a whole bunch of pictures. I don’t like to include any more than 50 photographs in an article because it can cause the page to load slowly (even 50 can be problematic), but I exceeded that pretty significantly here. If the images are not loading quickly, I apologize up front. On the positive side, if you like viewing photos, there are a ton to enjoy!
After Prefumo Canyon, Dave Wyman led the tour to Avila Beach where we walked down the historic Harford Pier, built in 1919. There used to be a townsite at the pier called Port Hatford, which was founded in 1871, but the pier is pretty much all that remains today. Although it’s still a working pier, it is open to the public, and you can even drive down it.
The midday sun was high, which isn’t the best time for photography, but I kept my eye out for picture opportunities anyway. Something I have learned is that there are photographic opportunities anytime of the day or night if you look hard enough, and it is up to the photographer to find them. Some times of the day, such as golden hour, tend to offer more obvious options, but even during midday sunlight there are chances to use your camera.
No Cigarettes – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
After the pier we hiked a short distance down the Bob Jones City-to-the-Sea Trail, then we headed back to San Luis Obispo to visit the historic Octagon Barn. This unusual structure is one of those places you’d not likely stop at unless your tour guide drove you there, which is exactly what Dave did. The site is surprisingly well kept and photogenic.
The next stop was Montaña de Oro State Park near Los Osos, which is just an incredible place! This landscape is quite diverse, with steep cliffs, miles of shoreline (both sandy and rocky), sand dunes, coastal plains, trees, streams, canyons, and hills—a photographer’s playground! The sun was beginning to move a little lower in the sky (especially towards the end of the visit), but it was still harsh light that wasn’t ideal for photography; however, some of my favorite pictures from the trip were captured at Montaña de Oro State Park.
We did a fair amount of walking and hiking on this day, and by the time we got back to the cars I was pretty exhausted. It probably didn’t help that I had a short night of rest. I think most people on the tour felt similarly, and Dave made the decision to go back to the hotel and take an intermission. I called it a day and returned to my accommodations, and spent the remainder of the evening with my wife and kids. We did walk to the Pismo Beach Pier, but I purposefully left my cameras behind and only used my iPhone. I believe everyone else walked around San Luis Obispo that evening.
Window View – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
The photographs below are in order of when they were captured. The picture at the top of this article, Pacific Poppies, fits in-between Seaside Poppies and Native Plants & Bird. Sometimes it takes a few tries to capture the strongest picture. The second image, No Cigarettes, fits in-between Boat in the Cove and Pro Boat. The third image, Window View, fits in-between Spooner Cove and Window Rock. Otherwise, the order is correct. I hope that you enjoy these pictures!
Peeling Paint – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – The Rockwell
Restaurant Rose – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Rafter Light – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor 100 Gold
Ceiling Lines Abstract – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Three Small Boats – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Red Buckets – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Pier Stairs – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Yellow Bag on Buckets – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Caution – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Lift – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Big Tire – Avila Beach, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Crab Cages – Avila Beach, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
For Crabs – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Boat in the Cove – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Pro Boat – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Curious Seal – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Bike & Can – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Seagull – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 27mm – Kodachrome 64
Bob Jones – Avila Beach, CA – iPhone 11 – RitchieCam App – Standard Film
Yellow Ice – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Vintage Color
White Barn – San Luis Obispo, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Dramatic Barn – San Luis Obispo, CA – iPhone 11 – RitchieCam App – Dramatic B&W
Octogon Ceiling – San Luis Obispo, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Kodak Portra 400 v2
Hole with a View – San Luis Obispo, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Kodak Portra 400 v2
Octogon Barn & Poppies – San Luis Obispo, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Kodak Portra 400 v2
Windmill – San Luis Obispo, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Kodak Portra 400 v2
Eucalyptus Forest – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Ken’s Hood Ornament – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Ocean Overlook – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Small Creek – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Small Pond – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Ken Twice – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Tide Pond – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Pacific Pool – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Rock & Reflection – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Morro Bay far Away – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Rocks & Water – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Stones & Water – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Tide Creek – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Rocks in the Water – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Dave Wyman using RitchieCam – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Dave Wyman using RitchieCam 2 – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Rocky Ocean – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – iPhone 11 – RitchieCam App – Dramatic B&W
Rocks & Waves – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Colorful Hill – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Colorful Hill 2 – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Purple Flower – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Colorful Beach – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Dave & Phone – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Green Hills, Blue Ocean – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – The Rockwell
Gold Coast – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor 100 Gold
Spooner Cove – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor 100 Gold
Window Rock – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Cave – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Stay Back – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Cloudy Countryside – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Dave & RitchieCam – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Morro in the Distance – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Yellow Weeds 1 – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Yellow Weeds 2 – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Across the Cove – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Two Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Seaside Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Native Plants & Bird – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Kodak Portra 400 v2
About to Fly – Pismo Beach, CA – iPhone 11 – RitchieCam App – Instant Color 1
I’m not a morning person. When my alarm sounded and it was still very dark outside, I didn’t want to jump out of the warm bed that I was comfortably resting in. I knew this was going to be a fun, memorable, and photographically productive day, so I wiped the sleep from my eyes and began to get ready. I was finally going to meet Ken Rockwell and Dave Wyman, and all the others who also signed up for the Central Coast of California tour, and I did not want to be late.
Everyone knows who Ken Rockwell is. His longstanding website has been one of the most popular in photography for decades. Dave Wyman is perhaps less well-known, but he has been teaching photography, leading tours, and publishing books for a long, long time—an incredible talent who deserves to be a household name in photography circles. I was very excited for the opportunity to meet them both in-person.
The tour began at a hotel in San Luis Obispo, where we all met up and decided who would be driving and who would be riding in which car. There were twelve of us total, including Ken and Dave, which means there were 10 attendees, including myself. Interestingly, I found out that seven were repeat customers, and had participated in at least one of Ken and Dave’s tours before.
After everyone had their gear loaded up, and as the sun was rising, we carpooled and caravanned to Prefumo Canyon, which is a mountainous area in-between San Luis Obispo and Avila Beach. It’s not a place anyone would likely stumble upon, unless they were purposefully exploring back roads that few ever take. But Dave knows these hidden gems very well thanks to the research he did for his first two books: Backroads of Northern California and Backroads of Southern California. While Dave does take his tours to the iconic locations that everyone photographs, he also goes to places almost nobody else does because virtually no one else knows where they are. Prefumo Canyon is one such spot.
Light in the Woods – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1
Dave Wyman is the tour organizer and leader, while Ken Rockwell is brought along as a subject matter expert. They are both available during the trip for any questions or advice that anyone might have. There’s no classroom portion of the tour—it’s all “en plein air”—so any and all education is done in-the-field. One can learn as much or as little as one wants to, and it is up to the attendees to ask any questions that they might have. Both Dave and Ken make themselves available throughout the tour; however, the information and advice that they provide is limited until questions are asked. If anyone is considering joining one of their tours in the future, my advice is to think about what you want to learn, and have a list of questions written down in advance. Also, don’t be afraid to approach Dave and Ken, as they’re both eager to help.
We spent much of the morning in Prefumo Canyon, photographing in a few different locations before moving on to Avila Beach. Thankfully the sun was shining—this would be the only non-dreary day of the entire trip! I did so much photography at this spot that I decided to separate Day 4 into two parts.
The photographs below are in order of when they were captured. The picture at the top of this article, Bench with a View, fits in-between Retro Yellow and Dave with Rolleiflex. The second image, Light in the Woods, fits in-between Light in the Dark Forest and Ken & Distant Moon. Otherwise, the order is correct. I hope that you enjoy these pictures!
Morro Rock from Above – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Curvy Canyon Road – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Tall Grass & Fence Post – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
California Hills – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – The Rockwell
Post & Shrub – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – The Rockwell
Hilltop view of Morro Rock – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Dave Wyman – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Rock Vista – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Pyramid – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Poison Oak – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Hills with Distant Clouds – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 90mm – Pacific Blues
Ever since the first trailer for Wes Anderson’s Asteroid City debuted back in March, the movie’s generated a lot of buzz. There’s also been a ton of interest in recreating Wes Anderson’s aesthetic and style. Now that Asteroid City is about to hit theaters across America (and presumably the world), there’s been a renewed interest in the Wes Anderson look.
Unfortunately, it’s not possible to faithfully mimic an Asteroid City aesthetic straight-out-of-camera on Fujifilm models; however, you can get somewhat close, if you ok with compromises. My Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe is the closest you’re likely to get to an Asteroid City look without editing (in the article, I give some tips for getting even closer with a couple of quick edits). While it’s just not possible to achieve an orange/teal/pastel palette in-camera on Fujifilm models, the Vibrant Arizona Recipe does produce an unmistakable Wes Anderson vibe, which is definitely in-style right now.
Last month I visited Sedona, Arizona—the perfect location to use Vibrant Arizona! If there’s any place that just cries for this Film Simulation Recipe, it’s Red Rock Country. I loaded the Recipe into my Fujifilm X-T5, attached a TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95 lens, and walked around the iconic tourist town. My wife, Amanda, came along with her Fujifilm X-T4 (with a Fujinon 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens), and recorded some clips.
You can use Film Simulation Recipes for video in Fujifilm cameras to an extent, and avoid color grading. Some settings aren’t available, such as Grain, Color Chrome Effects, D-Range Priority, and Clarity, which means that Vibrant Arizona can’t really be used for video. Instead, in order to get the video clips to be similar to the photographs, we used these settings in Amanda’s X-T4:
Classic Chrome White Balance: 4350K, +6 Red & -8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Color +4 Highlight: -2 Shadow: -2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4
Of course, being influenced by Wes Anderson, Amanda shot and edited the video in a style inspired by his movies. I hope that you find it entertaining, and that it will inspire you to give the Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe a try on your Fujifilm camera. Also, be sure to follow my YouTube channel if you don’t already, and give the video a thumbs-up if you liked it.
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I love to be creative, and to challenge myself to occasionally use curious techniques. While on the Central Coast of California tour earlier this month, one method I infrequently employed was a slow shutter speed handheld to purposefully achieve blurred images. When doing this, it’s possible to get an impressionist or abstract image that might be more interesting—or, at least, more unique—than if a quicker shutter or tripod had been used. I wouldn’t want to do this with every photograph, but when used sporadically (or maybe for a particular project), the results can be intriguing.
En plein air is a French expression that means outside or outdoors. Specific to art, it was made popular by Pierre-Henri de Valenciennes in 1800, who encouraged artists to immerse themselves into the landscapes that they were creating by painting the scene while at the scene, and not in a studio (the most common practice at the time). The en plein air philosophy was embraced by impressionist painters, such as Claude Monet, Pierre-Auguste Renoir, Alfred Sisley, and others.
Dave Wyman calls the Central Coast of California tour “En Plein Air” because there’s no classroom or lecture portion—everything happens while out in the landscape actively capturing photographs. It’s about learning to see and interpret the scene around you by being immersed in it. Additionally, this part of California has some similarities to some French and Italian regions, so applying the en plein air expression seems appropriate.
While this was Day 3 for me, for everyone else on the tour it was Day 1. This was their travel day. Once settled into their hotel, they spent the evening photographing San Luis Obispo and Pismo Beach; however, I did not join them yet. The prior day was busy, and I knew the next several days would be, too, so I kept this one low-key with my family. We did make it to the ocean a few different times at various locations around Pismo Beach and Avila Beach, but I purposefully did less with my cameras and tried to just be in the moment more often.
Shell – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Regarding the order, the top picture, House on the Seaside Cliffs, was the very first photo of the day, while Shell fits in-between Hanging Ice Plant and Camera Fight with Jon. Although I used my cameras less on this day, and despite the drab overcast weather, I still was able to capture a few good shots. I hope that you enjoy these pictures!
Seaweed on the Seashore – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Grey Coast – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Hanging Ice Plant – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Camera Fight with Jon – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodachrome 64
Green Dodge Van – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodachrome 64
Dodge – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodachrome 64
Old Man & the Sea – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodak Portra 400 v2
Waiting to Rescue – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Xpro ’62
Sibling at the Seashore – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Xpro ’62
Incoming Surf – Avila Beach, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Prelaunch – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodak Portra 400 v2
Preparing to Launch – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – The Rockwell
Dry Dock – Avila Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – The Rockwell
Little Giant – Avila Beach, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Violet Night – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
Dee’s Pizzeria – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
Lonely Lamp – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
Empty Pier – Pismo Beach, CA – iPhone 11 – RitchieCam App – Night Negative
Ocean Airstream – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
Pier View – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
Town, Reflected – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
Spirit of the Sea – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
Pismo Beach at Night – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
