The new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation found only on the latest Fujifilm cameras is becoming quite popular! A lot of people really seem to love the aesthetic of it. All X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, and X-S20, have Nostalgic Neg., as well as a couple of GFX cameras (GFX100S and GFX50S II). Classic Chrome is the most-used film sim by a large margin, followed distantly by Classic Negative and Acros, but currently there’s a lot of interest in the new option.
According to Fujifilm, Nostalgic Neg. is based on “American New Color” photography of the 1970’s. They studied photographs by William Eggleston, Stephen Shore, Joel Sternfeld, and Richard Misrach in order to create it. Eggleston and Sternfeld largely shot on Kodachrome—II and X in the early 1970’s, 25 and 64 in the late ’70’s—while Shore shot mostly Kodacolor, and Misrach shot a lot of Vericolor. All of those are Kodak emulsions, but with different aesthetics. These four photographers had different styles and different darkroom processes, and they each had a unique look; the commonality that Fujifilm found was an “overall atmosphere based on amber.” That’s a basic explanation of what the new film simulation is. While not mentioned by Fujifilm, I think Nostalgic Neg. also has some similarities to photographs by Saul Leiter and Joel Meyerowitz. Leiter used a whole bunch of different films over the years, including Kodachrome and Anscochrome, but apparently he didn’t mind using generic drug store brands, either. Meyerowitz mostly shot a mix of Kodachrome and Ektachrome for his color work. Nostalgic Negative is a divergent approach for Fujifilm, I think, in that it is not intended to mimic a certain emulsion (or the “memory color” of a specific film stock), but instead tries to mimic the “memory color” of a certain decade (the 1970’s), or perhaps simply elicit a nostalgic emotional response.
A lot of various looks can be made using the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. Because it is largely intended to mimic a retro Kodak aesthetic, it’s a good starting point for Kodak-esque Film Simulation Recipes. While some of my Recipes that use Nostalgic Neg. are intended to replicate a specific stock, most of them are not, and instead are more reminiscent of a certain time or era instead of a specific emulsion; however, some of those were made from studying pictures captured on specific films, so they do tend to resemble actual film stocks to an extent.
I get asked which Nostalgic Neg. Film Simulation Recipe one should try first on their X-Trans V camera. There are plenty to choose from, and the list is growing. Since your camera has seven custom presets (with the exception of the X-S20, which only has four), I would like to suggest the seven Nostalgic Neg. Recipes below. Choose one or two or even all seven to program into your camera, and give it a try! I bet at least one of them will become a new favorite Film Simulation Recipe that you find yourself using often.
Vulture City Entrance – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
The 1970’s Summer Film Simulation Recipe very much has a nostalgic Kodak “memory color” (as Fujifilm likes to say) that is reminiscent of old color photographs from the 1970’s. You might notice some similarities to William Eggleston’s Election Eve and 2 1/4 series and some of his other work from the late-1960’s through the mid-1970’s—not every picture, but certainly several. You might spot some similarities between this look and some of Stephen Shore’s photographs from the early-to-mid 1970’s. I think there are some similarities to a few of Joel Sternfeld’s American Prospects pictures. There’s a noticeable likeness to several of Richard Misrach’s desert photographs. In other words, 1970’s Summer produces a distinct American New Color aesthetic with a clear 1970’s vibe. This recipe works best in sunny daylight, and is excellent for midday photography.
Going Out of Business – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
Short Train – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
More Than Double Wide – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
I found the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways in a used bookstore. It has page after page of amazing photography! I really love the look of the pictures in this particular issue—while not every image looks alike, there is definitely a commonality to the photo aesthetic. For those who don’t know, Arizona Highways is a magazine with an important history. It began in 1925, and in 1946 published the world’s first all-color publication. From the beginning, Arizona Highways has been dedicated to the art of photography. Ansel Adams was a regular contributor. Barry Goldwater, Ray Manley, Chuck Abbott, David and Josef Muench, Ed Ellinger, Esther Henderson, and many other talented photographers were often featured. The publication is full of wonderful images even to this day. While it is not purely a photography magazine, Arizona Highways is a publication that photographers love due to their passion for the medium.
The vast majority of the pictures in the December 1960 issue were captured on Ektachrome, and fair number were shot on Kodachrome. While it was the December issue, most of the photographs had been captured that previous summer. The Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe mimics the aesthetic of the those images, including the magazine photo below, made by Chuck Abbott in July 1960 using Kodachrome.
Agaves in 1960 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
Saguaro Spines – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
Agua Caliente Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
When I was six-years-old, my family and I went to Expo ’86 World’s Fair in Vancouver, Canada. Not long ago I found many old pictures of that event—personal, in books, and online. The Emulsion ’86 Film Simulation Recipe is highly reminiscent of some of those photographs, producing a nostalgic analog aesthetic that is similar to some pictures from the mid-1980’s (presumably primarily Kodak emulsions). While it is a good option for sunny daylight photography, I especially like how this one looks on dreary overcast days.
Old California Architecture – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
Don’t Climb on the Bikes – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
Pink Blossom Bush – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
The Kodak Negative Film Simulation Recipe isn’t intended to mimic any specific emulsions; instead it has a “memory color” similar to some Kodak films, like Royal Gold, Gold 100, and Ektar 100. It’s not an exact match to any of those, but just in the general ballpark with a warm and vibrant Kodak color negative film palette. Because it uses Auto White Balance, the Kodak Negative Recipe is fairly versatile and can be used for many subjects and lighting situations.
Three Oranges – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative
Lake Lamp – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative
Water & Reflection – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative
Backlit Lupine – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Thommy’s Ektachrome was made by Thomas Schwab, who was simply trying to make a Recipe using the Nostalgic Neg. film sim that would be good for portraits. The Recipe he created has a distinctive Ektachrome aesthetic, especially similar to National Geographic photographs prior to Ektachrome’s discontinuation by 2013 (prior to the revival in 2018). That was, of course, by chance and not intentional, but there certainly are some similarities. This Recipe is not only good for portraits, but also landscapes and I’m sure many genres of photography. Thommy’s Ektachrome does particularly well in sunny daylight, but is good for overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.
Way Over That Way – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Wildflower Spring – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Historic Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Lynx Lake Overlook – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative
I wasn’t trying to emulate any specific film or process when I created the Nostalgia Negative Film Simulation Recipe, I just wanted something that looked good. This was my very first X-Trans V Recipe, and it was simply an attempt to create a better Nostalgic Neg. than just using the default settings. I hoped that perhaps it would even evoke feelings of nostalgia with a vintage analog-like aesthetic.
Two Ducks – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative
311 – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative
Soft Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative
The creators of the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation stated, “Nostalgic Negative is tuned for the best allrounder settings, but if you want to tweak it to get that classic American New Color look from the ’70’s, there are some adjustments you should make.” This Timeless Negative Film Simulation Recipe is a tweak to Fujifilm’s recommended settings, bringing it closer to a ’70’s vibe. This particular Recipe is especially versatile, and can be used for many different genres of photography and in various light conditions—it’s good for anytime of the day or night.
Dark Coffee – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative
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July Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Pushed CineStill 800T
CineStill 800T is a Kodak Tungsten-balanced motion picture film (specifically, Vision3 500T) that has had the Remjet layer removed so that it can be processed in C41 chemistry. It’s intended for use in indoor artificial light and at night (but could be used anytime with the appropriate color correction filter). Awhile back I found some examples of CineStill 800T that had been shot during the day in overcast conditions and had been push-processed. I liked the picture aesthetics, so I set out to recreate it.
While this Film Simulation Recipe is intended for daytime photography (particularly on overcast days), it does really well at night, too. For the after-dark pictures in this article, I used a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter, but a 10% or 20% might have been more appropriate for replicating the emulsion. I do recommend the use of a diffusion filter for nighttime photography when shooting with this Recipe.
This Pushed CineStill 800T Recipe isn’t new, but simply a modification of the X-Trans IV version for use on X-Trans V cameras. Because X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, a tweak to Color Chrome FX Blue—selecting Weak instead of Strong—was necessary for my Fujifilm X-T5. This Film Simulation Recipe isn’t for everyone or every situation, but some of you will really appreciate it for certain pictures.
Film Simulation: Eterna Bleach Bypass Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: 7700K, -9 Red & +5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: +1.5 Color: +3 Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Pushed CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Flower Stems in Colored Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Playing Video Games – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Flowers on a Dreary Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Birdcage Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Green Tree on a Blue Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Grey – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Street Train – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hand Signal – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spin – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ice – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hair Chairs – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Mellow Mushroom Pizza – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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It’s summer and it’s hot. I live in Arizona, so when I say it’s hot, I mean that it feels like someone opened an oven door! Nobody wants to be outside during the day right now, so (like vampires) everyone comes out at night. Not that it’s all that much cooler at dusk—it’s still triple digits—but at least it’s more bearable. While it’s easy to look at the negative side of things, the positive aspect to the excessive heat is that opportunities for night photography are plentiful.
A few days ago I took my Fujifilm X-T5 to downtown Tempe for some after-dark photography. Attached to the camera was a Meike 35mm f/1.7 lens, and I had a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter screwed onto it. I like the Meike lens for its vintage-like character. I chose the 5% CineBloom because its effect is subtle. While the 10% or 20% might have been more appropriate for a couple of the Film Simulation Recipes, overall I appreciate what the 5% CineBloom does to the photographs, which is not much yet oftentimes just enough.
I programmed into my Fujifilm X-T5 eight different Film Simulation Recipes, and shot with all of them. How was I able to program eight? Well, obviously, there’s C1-C7. On the X-T5 (as well as my X-E4 and a few other newer models), you can program an additional Recipe into the IQ menu. As you scroll through C1-C7, when you’re in-between C7 and C1, the camera will display the shooting mode (either P, A, S, or M, depending on the configuration of your dials), and it will select the settings programmed into the IQ menu, giving you a bonus eighth custom preset.
I didn’t walk all that far with my camera—going down a few blocks on one side of the road, and then back up on the other side. It was dark, but still blazing hot. I did manage to capture a whole bunch of pictures, making sure that I had at least six decent exposures with each Recipe. Afterwards I cooled off with an ice cream shake at In-N-Out, a nice treat to beat the heat.
If you are searching for some Film Simulation Recipes to try out on a hot summer night, take a look at the eight below. They’re certainly not the only ones that are good for after-dark photography, but they are all excellent options, and have their own unique aesthetics. These eight Recipes are the ones that I used, and I invite you to try them, too, the next time you go out for some night photography.
Boat Shack at Sunset – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2
Fujicolor Super HG v2 is a highly versatile Film Simulation Recipe that—because it uses the Auto White Priority white balance—you can use anytime of the day or night. This is a Recipe that makes a lot of sense to always have programmed into your camera, since, no matter the light scenario, it’s going to give you good results. There’s an X-Trans V version of Fujicolor Super HG v2 (for those with an X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, or X-S20), and an X-Trans IV version of this Recipe (for those with an X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II).
Three Empty Seats – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Ektachrome 320T
While the previous Recipe used Auto White Priority, Ektachrome 320T uses Auto Ambiance Priority, but don’t let that fool you: this Recipe is intended for use at night or indoors under artificial light, where it works very well. Ektachrome 320T is compatible with some X-Trans IV models that have the Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulation (X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II); to use it on X-Trans V, simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong, since X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations.
Expired ECN-2 100T is currently a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe. If you are a subscriber on the App, you have access to this Film Simulation Recipe; otherwise, you’ll have to wait a little while for it to become available to everyone. This particular Recipe produces a green or yellow cast (depending on the light) when used at night, and a teal-ish cast when used in daylight. Like the previous Recipe, this one is compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras; to use it on X-Trans V models, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
Daily Jam at Night – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled
Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled isn’t intended specifically as a Film Simulation Recipe for nighttime photography, but because it is so versatile it works really well for this. It has a low-contrast, low-saturation rendering with an earthy cast. It’s really good for toning down a scene when you’d prefer a softer picture. Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
When I first learned that Xpro ’62 was great for after-dark photography, I was actually a little surprised, because this is intended as a daylight Recipe, and on paper it doesn’t seem versatile enough to be a good nighttime option. But it’s absolutely wonderful for night images! If you’ve never tried Xpro ’62 for post-sunset pictures, be sure to do so. It’s compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
The CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe is specifically intended for night photography, so it should be no surprise that it does well for after-dark pictures. If you want to even more closely mimic the film, try it with a 10% or 20% CineBloom diffusion filter. Like the previous two Recipes, CineStill 800T is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong. There is a version for X-Trans III cameras plus the X-T3 and X-T30, and a version for X-Trans II models.
The Pushed CineStill 800T Recipe is actually modeled after some pictures of the film that were captured in daylight on an overcast day. This Recipe wasn’t necessarily purposefully intended for night photography, but it shouldn’t be surprising that it does well for it. It also shouldn’t be too surprising that it renders noticeably different than the CineStill 800T Recipe above. Pushed CineStill 800T is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras that have Eterna Bleach Bypass (X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II; however, there is a version for the X-Pro3 and X100V); to use it on X-Trans V cameras, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
Neon Red – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Serr’s 500T
Last but far from least is Serr’s 500T, which is one of my absolute favorite nighttime Film Simulation Recipes. Due to its strong blue cast, this one is especially great for countering warm artificial light. Serr’s 500T is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Boat Shack at Sunset – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2
Fujifilm introduced the Super HG line in 1986, with ISO versions between 100 and 1600. It saw several iterations and improvements before Fujifilm replaced it with the Superia line is 1998. This Fujicolor Super HG v2 recipe produces results similar to Super HG 100 or Super HG 200 film. One film can have many different looks depending on how it was shot, developed, and printed or scanned, so this Recipe won’t match every image from the emulsion, but it is definitely in the general ballpark of the film.
Bridge to Nowhere – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2
Because this Recipe uses the Auto White Priority white balance, it is extremely versatile. It would be like having a whole case full of various color correction filters for your film back in the day, except now you don’t need to carry around a bunch of filters. Use this Recipe anytime of the day or night! As of this writing, this version of Fujicolor Super HG v2 is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, and X-S20 cameras. The X-Trans IV version is compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II models. If you have a newer GFX model, you can try this or the original iteration—I’m not certain which is most appropriate, so maybe try both and see which one you like better.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto White Priority, -3 Red & -1 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +1 Color: +2 Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor Super HG v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Bougainvillea Arm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bored Boy Tossing Football – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Potted Palm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water Angels – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Zenefits – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bow – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sidewalk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Resting Cat – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Stone Fencepost – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Adirondack – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset over Black Ridge – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Birds not of a Feather – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Double-Double – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Corner of 6th – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Someone asked me for advice: should they sell their Fujifilm X100V (plus the wide and tele conversion lenses) and buy an X-T5 (plus some f/2 Fujinon lenses), or just keep the X100V? They really like the X100V, and it works well for their photography, but they think the X-T5 might be better. I was going to answer this question personally, but I can’t find the email or DM (sorry); instead, I will answer the question publicly, and hope they find it. Maybe it will also be helpful to some of you considering a similar scenario.
Because there is so much demand for and so little supply of the X100V, they’re selling for an inflated price right now. If a camera like the X-T5 is financially out-of-reach, yet you can get a good amount for your X100V, now the X-T5 is a possibility. But is it worth it?
I have a Fujifilm X100V. It was a birthday gift from my wife over three years ago, and it’s been my favorite camera ever since. Even though my X100V is far from new, it is still such a great camera, and I use it all of the time. I feel like it is the perfect tool 90% of the time, 8% of the time it’s not ideal but can be made to work, and 2% of the time it is just the wrong tool for the job. That’s for my photography. You might find it to be perfect 100% of the time for yours, or only 50%, or something else entirely. Each person is different. My opinion is that, while the X100V is my favorite camera, it is best when you have an interchangeable-lens option for those situations when it is not ideal.
I have a Fujifilm X-T5. I purchased it when it was announced so that I could try the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. The X-T5 is such a great camera, too—very wonderful! Fujifilm did an excellent job with this one. But I don’t like it nearly as much as the X100V. If I put the two models next to each other, most of the time I’d grab the X100V and not the X-T5. Let me give you five reasons for this.
Before I do—just real quick—I want to make it clear that this article is not about bashing the Fujifilm X-T5 or any other camera. I’m sure for some of you the X-T5 is your all-time favorite model, and you’ve never been happier. It could be that if you purchased it, you’d find the perfect camera for you. Each person will have their own preferences because we’re all different, and we have some excellent options to choose from. I’m simply speaking about my personal experiences and preferences.
First, the Fujifilm X-T5, while still fairly small and lightweight, is bigger and heavier than my X100V. This matters a lot to me, because the X100V rarely gets in the way, while the X-T5 can and sometimes does. After awhile of carrying around, the X-T5 gets tiring a lot quicker than the X100V. Also, I have a travel kit that I really like, and the X100V fits really well in it, while the X-T5 doesn’t.
Second, the Fujifilm X100V has some features that I find especially useful, such as the built-in fill-flash that works incredibly well (thanks to the leaf shutter and Fujifilm’s programming) and a built-in ND filter. The X-T5 has IBIS, which is also a useful feature, so this isn’t completely lopsided in favor of the X100V, but I use the fill-flash and ND filter fairly frequently, while IBIS is only occasionally useful for me—you might find the opposite to be true for you.
Third, the Fujifilm X-T5 is designed like an SLR, and the viewfinder is in the middle; the X100V is designed like a rangefinder, and the viewfinder is on the corner. When I use the X-T5, my nose gets smooshed against the rear LCD, and often leaves a smudge. With the X100V, my nose sits next to the camera completely unsmooshed (did I just make up a new word?), and the rear LCD remains smudgeless (another made-up word?).
Fourth, the X100V has more manageable file sizes than the X-T5. The 26-megapixel images from the X100V are plenty for me. I’ve printed 2′ x 3′ from straight-out-of-camera JPEGs, and they look great. I don’t print larger than that, so I don’t really need the extra resolution. If I needed to crop deeply I could with the X-T5, but since it’s an interchangeable-lens model, I’d simply change the lens as my first option. The X-T5’s 40-megapixel pictures fill up an SD card and my phone’s storage noticeably quicker. Sometimes more resolution means more problems.
Fifth, the Fujifilm X-T5 is subject to dust on the sensor. Technically, it’s possible to get a dirty sensor on the X100V (and that would be a big problem), but it would take a combination of a crazy scenario (I’m thinking haboob) and mishandling (no filter attached). I’ve never had a single dust spot (knock on wood) on my X100V, but it’s a constant battle with my X-T5 (and my other interchangeable-lens models).
So my recommendation is to keep the Fujifilm X100V, and not sell it to fund the purchase of an X-T5. That’s my advice, but it is up to each person to determine what is most appropriate for their unique situation. What’s best for me may not be what’s best for you.
With that said, I do think it makes a lot of sense to have an interchangeable-lens option to go with the X100V. I have a Fujifilm X-E4 that I especially love, and I use it more often than the X-T5. Yes, you heard that correctly: the X100V is my most used camera, the X-E4 is number two, and the X-T5 is in third place right now. They’re all wonderful options, and you should be happy with any of them. In the specific situation I was asked about, I do believe that cost is a significant consideration, and I’d look into a used Fujifilm X-E3 as a companion to the X100V, since the X-E4 might be too expensive or difficult to find.
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Small Windmill – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Superia 100
Fujicolor Superia 100 was a daylight-balanced color negative film produced by Fujifilm between 1998 and 2009. It replaced Fujicolor Super G Plus 100, which, honestly, didn’t look all that much different. Superia 100 had improved grain, sharpness, and more accurate color under florescent light; under normal conditions, and without a very close inspection, the two films looked nearly identical. Superia 100 was a “consumer” film that was widely found in drug and convenient stores. It was regularly used for family snapshots, but was also popular among photojournalists, as well as portrait and wedding photographers. Superia 100 was marketed as a “general use” low-ISO color film. Like the film, this Fujicolor Superia 100 Film Simulation Recipe could serve as a general-use option.
This Film Simulation Recipe has fairly low contrast—but not too low—and produces very nice colors. It has a nostalgic quality to it, since the film that it’s based on was widely used for family snapshots in the 1990’s and 2000’s. You can use it for portraits or street photography or landscapes—really, it’s good for most situations. Like the film, in indoor artificial light it will render especially warm, which you might or might not appreciate. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, and X-S20. For newer GFX models, you can use either version, but I’m sure it will look slightly different than an the X series.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, 0 Red & -1 Blue Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Highlight: -1 Shadow: -2 Color: +1 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor Superia 100 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Red Bike – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Taillight – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Snooze – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon with a Camera – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water & Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spiderweb Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Greens of Summer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Birdcage Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Americana Girl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Backlit Girl in the Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea Blooms of Summer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blooms Above Blocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tiny Purple Backyard Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Flowerpot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Love Lost – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Concentration – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hanging Lamps – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Coffee – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Ever since the first trailer for Wes Anderson’s Asteroid City debuted back in March, the movie’s generated a lot of buzz. There’s also been a ton of interest in recreating Wes Anderson’s aesthetic and style. Now that Asteroid City is about to hit theaters across America (and presumably the world), there’s been a renewed interest in the Wes Anderson look.
Unfortunately, it’s not possible to faithfully mimic an Asteroid City aesthetic straight-out-of-camera on Fujifilm models; however, you can get somewhat close, if you ok with compromises. My Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe is the closest you’re likely to get to an Asteroid City look without editing (in the article, I give some tips for getting even closer with a couple of quick edits). While it’s just not possible to achieve an orange/teal/pastel palette in-camera on Fujifilm models, the Vibrant Arizona Recipe does produce an unmistakable Wes Anderson vibe, which is definitely in-style right now.
Last month I visited Sedona, Arizona—the perfect location to use Vibrant Arizona! If there’s any place that just cries for this Film Simulation Recipe, it’s Red Rock Country. I loaded the Recipe into my Fujifilm X-T5, attached a TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95 lens, and walked around the iconic tourist town. My wife, Amanda, came along with her Fujifilm X-T4 (with a Fujinon 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens), and recorded some clips.
You can use Film Simulation Recipes for video in Fujifilm cameras to an extent, and avoid color grading. Some settings aren’t available, such as Grain, Color Chrome Effects, D-Range Priority, and Clarity, which means that Vibrant Arizona can’t really be used for video. Instead, in order to get the video clips to be similar to the photographs, we used these settings in Amanda’s X-T4:
Classic Chrome White Balance: 4350K, +6 Red & -8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Color +4 Highlight: -2 Shadow: -2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4
Of course, being influenced by Wes Anderson, Amanda shot and edited the video in a style inspired by his movies. I hope that you find it entertaining, and that it will inspire you to give the Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe a try on your Fujifilm camera. Also, be sure to follow my YouTube channel if you don’t already, and give the video a thumbs-up if you liked it.
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The story that I found in that email was absolutely incredible! Whether or not you ever use the Film Simulation Recipe that Anders sent to me, the story itself makes this article a worthwhile read. I was (and still am) just blown away by it! It’s funny how life comes full circle in surprising ways sometimes.
“Some years back,” Anders Lindborg wrote me, “I found myself being totally photographically stuck. People liked my photos, but I could feel there was something missing from them and I thought they were still too amateurish. By chance, a photography magazine published an article called Learning How to See in which they mentioned a photographer named John Sevigny, an art teacher at a university in Mexico City. The magazine referenced Mr. Sevigny because he often talked with his students—and had also written some papers—about the subject of the article. Anyway, I started searching the internet and found many articles about him and his work. I also found some of his papers on the subject. Afterwards, I noticed that something gradually happened to my photos, and I realized that I could often see a deeper meaning in random ordinary things, people’s expressions and behavior. It really helped me, and I swore to never forget about this guy.”
“Life is funny,” Anders continued, “and I think I’m slowly starting to believe in this karma stuff. As it happens, awhile back I was contacted out of the blue by no other than John Sevigny himself! He had apparently found my stuff published on Fuji X Weekly very interesting and asked very kindly if I could help him out with the final touches on his upcoming book. The project that he had been working on was really heavy stuff, so he was temporarily burned out and needed some technical assistance, which I gladly provided. After the material for the book was finished, we continued chatting and I’m now proud to call him my friend.”
“After weeks of talking about photography, John mentioned that he really missed shooting with Kodak T-Max P3200 that he used to use all of the time while working as a news photographer. So, he said, how about making a recipe for it? I couldn’t resist, so we started developing it immediately. John provided me with all the information about the emulsion that I could possibly need, including a bunch of his own 25-year-old scans, but most important was his experience of shooting it daily for years. According to John, anytime there was a request for something that was going to be an article inside the newspaper, that’s the film they used since the available light would almost always be ranging from bad to worse. It didn’t matter if it was a sports event or a murder, they used Kodak T-Max P3200. After reading up about it (since I never shot it myself, sadly), I understood why: it was optimized to create sharp and (reasonably) detailed photos in generally bad light.”
Now Serving Bacon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodak T-Max P3200 Recipe
“Much care and testing has been put into this recipe by both John and myself,” Anders concluded, “and since John had all this experienced with the film, he had to be the one to officially approve it, which he did. I couldn’t be happier with the results we got from the tests! I actually put his scans in a photo album together with my test shots and the only thing revealing was the lens quality. When using the recipe with a vintage lens, I promise that you’ll have a really hard time telling your photos apart from the real film! Even some of the film’s tell-tale quirks have been replicated.”
Wow! Thank you, Anders Lindborg and John Sevigny, for creating this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe and allowing me to share it with the Fujifilm community on Fuji X Weekly—your work is much appreciated! I really love how Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes are bringing people together across the world—it’s truly amazing! As great as this Recipe is—and it is great—the story behind it is even better.
Like Anders, I have also (sadly) never shot with Kodak T-Max P3200 black-and-white negative film (I went with Ilford Delta 3200 instead). Originally released in 1988 (the ISO 100 and ISO 400 versions were released two years prior), Kodak discontinued T-Max P3200 in 2012, but reintroduced it (with an “improved” emulsion) in 2018. It’s actually an ISO 800 (some say ISO 1000) film that labs automatically develop with two stops of push-processing, unless you tell them otherwise. But you can shoot it at ISO 800 and not push or ISO 400 and pull one stop (for less contrast) or ISO 1600 and push one stop. Some (brave? crazy? desperate?) photographers even shot it at ISO 6400 and pushed it three stops! Kodak T-Max P3200 can basically be anywhere from an ISO 400 to an ISO 6400 film, and it can go from a fairly flat and fine-grained emulsion to a punchy and gritty film, just depending on how you shot and developed it.
With this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe, the higher the ISO you shoot with, the more it will resemble shooting the film at a higher ISO and push-processing, and the lower the ISO it will more resemble shooting at ISO 800 and not pushing in development. In other words, you are going to get somewhat different results at ISO 640 than ISO 6400; I especially appreciate how this Recipe looks from ISO 3200 to ISO 12800. You will need to consider if you want a cleaner or more grainy aesthetic, and choose an ISO that will produce those results.
If you have a Fujifilm X-Trans IV camera (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-S10, X-T30 II) or X-Trans V (X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, X-S20, and any other released after publication), I invite you to give this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe a try! It’s not compatible with the X-T3 or X-T30 or X-Trans III, unfortunately; however, if you ignore Toning, Grain size, and Clarity, it should still produce good results, so don’t be afraid to give it a try. This Recipe should also work with GFX cameras, although I haven’t tested it and have no firsthand experience if it will look similar or not.
Film Simulation: Acros (orAcros+Y, Acros+R, Acros+G) Monochromatic Color (Toning): WC -1 & MG -1 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5500K, +4 Red & +7 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +3 Sharpness: +2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +1 ISO: up to ISO 12800 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5, X-E4 and X100V cameras:
Tall Flower Vine – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Tiny White Blooms – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Garden Bulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Forest Stream – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
38th Way – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Palm in the Contrail Sky – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Tall Cactus – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Highlight & Shadow Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Backyard Barrel – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Water Wheel – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Castle Rock – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jet Above the Rocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cloud Above the Desert – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Arizona’s High Desert – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Oak Creek & Cathedral Rock – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Rocks & Big Sky – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Busy Parking Lot – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Delilah – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sunlit Suburban Tree Branch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Peaceful Pool – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Josh by the Pool – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Closed Umbrella 2 – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Towel on Chair – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Empty Bench – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Please Don’t Litter – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilom X100V
Basket – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Hoop & Pine – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Bus Rider – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Camera Fight 1 – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Camera Fight 2 – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sisters in the Back of the Bus – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Lady with Paw-Print Earring – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Joy’s Smile – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Girl Along a Wall – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Preparing Hands – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sink Full of Dirty Dishes – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Fake Plant – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Floor – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Table Lamp – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Outdoor Patio Lights – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Betty Elyse – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
ISO 640 vs ISO 12800:
ISO 640 Crop
ISO 12800 Crop
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Three retro-styled digital cameras go head-to-head-to-head in Sedona, Arizona, each with a different manual 35mm lens: Meike 35mm f/1.7, TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4, and TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95. Who will win? Let’s find out!
I love shooting with retro-styled digital cameras! For the most part that means Fujifilm models, but I also own a Nikon Zfc. Fujifilm, of course, is renown for this type of camera; for Nikon, this is a (mostly) divergent concept. Some other camera brands also offer rangefinder or classic-SLR styling, but lack the traditional controls (such as a manual shutter knob) that are an essential aspect to the photographic experience. Leica is well above my budget. The three cameras that I chose to shoot with are the Nikon Zfc, Fujifilm X-E4, and Fujifilm X-T5.
Why these three specific cameras? I picked the Nikon Zfc first because I don’t use it very often, and was eager to dust it off. The Fujifilm X-E4 was next because it was released just a few months before the Zfc, was just a little cheaper, and on-paper the two models are fairly comparable. I chose the Fujifilm X-T5 because it is surprisingly similar to the Zfc in size and design.
Each camera was paired with a different manual 35mm lens. I attached a TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 to the Nikon Zfc, a Meike 35mm f/1.7 to the Fujifilm X-E4, and a TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95 to the Fujifilm X-T5. Since I was using manual lenses, I shot all three cameras completely manually—no auto anything. Back when I shot a lot of film, I used a Canon AE-1 (and later a couple of Pentax models), and shot full manual for years. It’s a slower and more challenging process—especially if you don’t have much experience with it—but I find it to be more enjoyable and rewarding.
My birthday gift this year was a trip to Sedona, which is about two hours north of my home in the Phoenix area. Sedona is stunning—almost like being inside the Grand Canyon—so it was the perfect place to conduct this photographic project. Three different cameras, each with a different 35mm lens, going head-to-head-to-head, to see which is best for full manual travel photography in an incredibly beautiful location. Which one will crowned winner?
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4
The Nikon Zfc is a beautiful looking camera, no doubt about it! Some curious design choices make it not nearly as good as it could have been. My experience is that this camera makes the most sense when used in manual mode with a third-party manual lens, such as the TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4. It’s bigger and heavier than it should be for its class and features, and the lack of a handgrip make it less than ideal for extended use (considering the size and weight).
I programmed my Vintage Color Film Simulation Recipe into the Zfc and shot 36 exposures (like a roll of film) with the camera while in Sedona. I chose that particular Recipe because I like the retro analog-like rendering that it produces. In general, I feel as though Nikon’s JPEG output is well behind Fujifilm’s, but the quality is still good, and I don’t think it’s necessary to shoot RAW with the Zfc to get nice results—the unedited straight-out-of-camera JPEGs are plenty good enough for most people and purposes.
Of the three cameras, the Nikon Zfc was my least favorite. Honestly, I’d prefer a nine-year-old Fujifilm X-T1, which you can probably find for half the price or less. Still, the Zfc is a good option, and if (for some unknown reason) I could no longer shoot Fujifilm, I’d be happy with the Zfc. Did I mention that it’s a beautiful looking camera? If outward appearances mattered most, the Zfc might very well be the winner. Since the insides are just as important—if not more so—than the outsides, the Nikon is not my favorite camera. With that said, the Zfc is significantly easier to find than the Fujifilm X-E4 (which was recently discontinued, inflating the price) and significantly cheaper than the Fujifilm X-T5 (a higher-end model), making it a good choice for someone buying their first retro-styled digital camera.
The TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 lens is wonderful! I love the design, particularly the clicking f-stops and smooth focus ring. The optical quality is excellent—very sharp! It has good character. The maximum aperture is quite large. The nifty-fifty-like focal length is extremely useful. The price is very affordable. My only complaints are that it has 1/2 intermediate stops (instead of the more common 1/3), those intermediate stops end at f/4, and the lens jumps straight from f/8 to f/16. Of the three 35mm lenses, this one is my favorite for design and practical use, and my second favorite for how it renders images.
Below are some of those 36 exposures that I captured in Sedona with my Nikon Zfc and TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 using the Vintage Color Recipe.
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Nikon Zfc + TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4 + Vintage Color Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7
The Fujifilm X-E4 was my most-used camera in 2022. Its compact size and simplicity make it an especially excellent option for travel photography. The X-E4 was released just before the Nikon Zfc and with an MSRP a little lower, so it shouldn’t be surprising that on paper these cameras have similar specs (although the X-E4 in my opinion has the advantage in most categories), but once you hold the two cameras, you quickly see that they’re much different. First, the X-E4 is significantly smaller and lighter. The X-E4 has a rangefinder-like styling while the Zfc is SLR-shaped. For full-manual photography, the Zfc has one important advantage: an ISO knob.
Fujifilm did not give the X-E4 an ISO knob or ring. I think an ISO ring around the shutter knob like on the Fujifilm X100V would have been an excellent touch, but they didn’t do that. Normally this is no issue at all because I most commonly use Auto-ISO, and don’t often manually adjust the ISO; however, when one does want to adjust the ISO, one has to dig through the menu, or setup a shortcut. I set the front command wheel to adjust the ISO; while that’s a sufficient workaround, it’s not nearly as ideal as having a dedicated dial. For this project, I set the ISO to 1600, and only adjusted it when I absolutely had to, which worked out alright.
Of the three cameras, the Fujifilm X-E4 was my favorite during this experiment, despite the lack of an ISO dial. The small size and weight make it more pleasant for caring around on hikes or when doing touristy things. While not perfect, it’s one of my favorite cameras; however, the X-E4 has been difficult to find for some time, and even more so now that Fujifilm has discontinued it. To add insult to injury, I’ve noticed some significant price gouging lately. The Nikon Zfc is easy to find and perhaps even at a discount. The Fujifilm X-T5 is still in stock at most stores. If you don’t already own a Fujifilm X-E4, you’re not likely going to get your hands on one anytime soon, and you’ll likely pay a premium, since Fujifilm didn’t produce as many copies as there was demand for.
The Film Simulation Recipe that I programmed into my Fujifilm X-E4 was Fujicolor Natura 1600, which is one of my absolute favorites for achieving an analog aesthetic. I think this particular Recipe could trick unsuspecting viewers into believing that the pictures were actually shot on color negative film. I published this Recipe almost exactly one year ago, and it’s one of my most used. Like the Zfc, I shot 36 exposures with this Recipe while in Sedona, and it didn’t disappoint on this adventure!
The Meike 35mm f/1.7 is a lens that I really love and kind of dislike simultaneously. The aperture ring is click-less, which means that you don’t really know when you are at a particular f-stop. Mostly that’s just annoying and detracts from the experience, but sometimes it’s kind of convenient and actually better than having no intermediate stops or half-stops. The lens jumps from f/8 to f/22 rather quickly. The maximum aperture of f/1.7 is the “slowest” of these three. What I like most about the Meike 35mm lens is the quality and character of the images that it produces, which is just wonderful! This is my second favorite lens of the three for how it looks, my least favorite for the shooting experience, and my most favorite for how it renders pictures. It’s super inexpensive, so it’s very easy to recommend.
Below are some of those 36 exposures that I captured in Sedona with my Fujifilm X-E4 and Meike 35mm f/1.7 using the Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe.
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-E4 + Meike 35mm f/1.7 + Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe – Sedona, AZ
Fujifilm X-T5 + TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95
Fujifilm X-T5 + TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95
It might seem unfair to compare the Fujifilm X-T5 to the Fujifilm X-E4 and Nikon Zfc, because this camera is clearly in a different class than the other two. The X-T5 is a more premium model, with IBIS, weather-sealing, better build quality, and double the resolution of the Zfc (and about 55% more than the X-E4). But, aside from the handgrip, the X-T5 and the Zfc are surprisingly similar on the outside, and that’s why I included it in this experiment.
The Fujifilm X-T5 is technically the best of these three cameras, hands down; however, the one reason why I believe the Fujifilm X-E4 won this challenge is size and weight. While visiting Sedona, I enjoyed carrying around the X-E4 more than the X-T5 or Zfc. Comfort and convenience are important aspects of travel photography, and sometimes that trumps pure specs or even key features. If I were to simply choose the best camera, doubtlessly it would the Fujifilm X-T5, but, for the purpose of traveling to Sedona, I liked the X-E4 just a little bit more.
I crowned the X-E4 the winner, but it is not an easy camera to find; if you do happen to see one for sale, the price will likely be inflated. The Fujifilm X-T5 can be found fairly easily, but it is by far the most expensive of these three models. The Zfc offers a somewhat similar experience to the X-T5 when shooting in manual mode with third-party lenses, but for a lot less money. Yes, the X-T5 is significantly better overall, but if you are on a tight budget (and you can’t find an X-E4), the Zfc is not a bad camera to own. If you can find an X-E4 for a reasonable price, that’s my top recommendation. If you can afford the X-T5, that’s a close second. If neither of those are applicable to you, then the Zfc is a decent consolation prize.
The Film Simulation Recipe that I programmed into my Fujifilm X-T5 is 1970’s Summer, which uses the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, and produces a warm retro film-like aesthetic with similarities to some classic American New Color pictures. I shot 36 exposures with this Recipe, as if it was a roll of film.
This was my very first time using the TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95 lens, which is by far the most expensive lens of the three, but still reasonably affordable. It’s kind of ugly compared to the other two, sort of resembling a sport’s referee. Wide open it’s extremely soft (nearly unusable, unless you are purposefully seeking dreaminess), but stopped down it’s sharp, and performs especially well from about f/4 to f/8. The aperture ring clicks, which is nice, but with 1/2 intermediate stops (instead of the more common 1/3 stops); thankfully, the intermediate stops go through the whole range to f/16 (the minimum aperture). This lens has the most pronounced distortion of the three. For the most part, I like the images produced by the other two lenses better than this one (which is disappointing considering the price), but the TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95 is still a lens that I enjoyed using and produces good results.
Below are some of those 36 exposures that I captured in Sedona with my Fujifilm X-T5 and TTArtisan 35mm f/0.95 using the 1970’s Summer Recipe.
The Fujicolor Natura 1600 and 1970’s Summer Film Simulation Recipes can be found in the Fuji X Weekly App, along with nearly 300 others. Don’t have the App? Download it for free today! Consider becoming a Fuji X Weekly App Patron to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
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Rocky Hill in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1
I asked OpenAI’s ChatGPT to make a Film Simulation Recipe to mimic the look of Kodachrome X slide film. This wasn’t the first time that I attempted to use ChatGPT to make a Recipe for Fujifilm cameras… you might recall that the Urban Dreams Film Simulation Recipe was made by ChatGPT, and by chance it has some resemblance to Kodachrome 200. I learned a lot about the AI’s ability (or is it inability?) to make Recipes, so I decided to try again just for the fun of it.
Kodak introduced Kodachrome—a color transparency film, and the world’s first commercially successful color film—in 1935. Kodachrome X was in the second era of the emulsion, sold between 1962 and 1973. It was replaced by Kodachrome 64, which was discontinued in 2009. Today you cannot buy Kodachrome, and even if you found some old rolls of the film, you cannot even get it developed. Shooting with a facsimile Film Simulation Recipe on Fujifilm cameras is a great way to experience some of these old emulsions that no longer exist, such as Kodachrome X.
Here’s a YouTube video I made documenting the experience!
My opinion is that ChatGPT’s Recipe is much too vibrant to mimic Kodachrome X. While the film was richly vibrant for its time, no emulsion in the 1960’s was that colorful. Today it would be described more as true-to-life. There are also other issues I take with the settings that the AI chose, so I don’t think it did well at mimicking Kodachrome; however, that doesn’t mean the settings (by chance) don’t look nice.
ChatGPT’s Kodachrome X Recipe
My Kodachrome II v2 Recipe
After examining the ChatGPT Recipe, I decided that it reminds me a lot of Kodak Ektachrome E100VS. There have been over 40 different emulsions that carried the Ektachrome name over the years—each with their own unique look—and E100VS was just one. Kodak introduced this film in 1999 and discontinued it in 2012. Ektachrome E100VS was Kodak’s best attempt at Velvia, and was their most vibrant emulsion. The “VS” in the name meant Vividly Saturated. While it was similar to Velvia, it wasn’t identical—the warmth of the film was the most obvious difference—and many photographers preferred Fujifilm’s Velvia over Kodak’s Ektachrome E100VS. Still, at the pinnacle of the film era, it was a popular choice for landscape photographers wanting a boost in vibrancy.
I noticed with AI generated Film Simulation Recipes that most of the time it chooses Auto White Balance, Grain Strong, and stays within -2 to +2 on all of the settings; my experience is that it only occasionally strays from that. It also seems to always leave some necessary settings out, and you have to ask it to add those. Of course, no film has Auto White Balance—most are Daylight (around 5500K), and some are Tungsten (around 3200K). While it is amazing that ChatGPT can produce a Recipe for Fujifilm cameras, if it looks good or not—and if it truly produces the aesthetic that you asked for—is more by chance than skill. Also, it doesn’t like to cite its sources, which is just wrong in my opinion.
While it tried and failed to resemble 1960’s era Kodachrome, I still liked the look produced by ChatGPT’s Kodachrome X Film Simulation Recipe. Since it has some similarities to Kodak Ektachrome E100VS color transparency film, I renamed it after that emulsion. I also refined the settings to more closely resemble the film, and am including that as a second Recipe, which I call Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2. So v1 is ChatGPT’s Recipe, and v2 is my modified alternative.
I shot a number of rolls of Ektachrome E100VS back in my film days. Most of these pictures are stored away in little yellow boxes, but a few images have been scanned. Obviously, the scanner—and especially the quality of the scan—has an impact on the photo rendering. The four images below are some real Kodak Ektachrome E100VS frames that I shot many years ago. None of these are high-quality scans, and for that I apologize, and I hope you can overlook that aspect of the pictures. Also, it’s important to state that they all look significantly more impressive when viewed on a light table or especially from a slide projector.
Actual Kodak Ektachrome E100VS film
Actual Kodak Ektachrome E100VS film
Actual Kodak Ektachrome E100VS film
Actual Kodak Ektachrome E100VS film
How the film was shot had a significant impact on the look. For deeper blues and reds, one should underexpose the film slightly. For cyan sky and brighter (and warmer) colors, one should overexpose slightly. Of course, you had to be careful, because the film—like most slide films—had a narrow dynamic range, and there wasn’t much room for error either direction. These two Film Simulation Recipes behave similarly, although I believe v2 a little more so than v1.
Without further ado, here are the two Kodak Ektachrome E100VS Film Simulation Recipes!
Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1
ChatGPT Recipe for Kodachrome X
Beef Franks – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Ektachrome E100VS v1
This is the Recipe that ChatGPT created to mimic Kodachrome X, but it looks more like Kodak Ektachrome E100VS. It produces vivid colors similar to—but more warm and slightly less vibrant than—Velvia film. For darker blues and deeper reds, use a lower exposure compensation, and for lighter blues and brighter/warmer colors, use a higher exposure compensation. Because it uses Auto White Balance and DR400, you’ll find it to be quite versatile; however, the rendering is clearly “wrong” in some situations.
The Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1 Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2s, as well as “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, which include the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. You can use this Recipe on newer GFX cameras; however, it will render slightly differently (but try it anyway!). For the X-T3 and X-T30 (plus older GFX), you’ll have to ignore Color Chrome FX Blue, Grain size, and Clarity (since your camera doesn’t have those options), so it will definitely look a little different, but you might like it nonetheless; for X-Trans III, you’ll have to additionally ignore Color Chrome Effect.
Film Simulation: Velvia Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: Auto, +2 Red & -2 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +1 Color: +2 Sharpness: +1 High ISO NR: -2 Clarity: +1 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Suburban Arches – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Red, Green & Yellow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pink Blossom in Spring – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Boy in a Red Hat – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Saguaro & Abandoned Building – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Agave at the Mine – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spiderweb Among Thorns – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Flowers Behind Cactus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cactus Vailed by Sunlight – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Little Purple Wildflowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Veiled Cactus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Spring in the Shade – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Shaded Bristlebush Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2
Fuji X Weekly Recipe
Unexpected X – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2
This version of Kodak Ektachrome E100VS is my modification to better mimic the film. It’s not too divergent—only slightly dissimilar—since it’s simply a modification of the AI Recipe, and not made from scratch. Because it uses more of a daylight-balanced Kelvin White Balance and DR200, it’s not quite as versatile as v1, and you have to be a little more careful of the light situation you are shooting in and pay closer attention to the highlights to avoid clipping. Sometimes it’s not completely correct, but I think in the “right” conditions it can be quite convincing—nearly identical to some slides I have.
The Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2 Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2s, as well as “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, which include the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the X-T3, X-T30, X-Pro3, or X100V. You can use this Recipe on newer GFX cameras; however, it will render slightly differently (but try it anyway!).
Film Simulation: Velvia Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 5150K, +3 Red & -3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +1.5 Shadow: +0.5 Color: +1 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5 and X-E4:
Americana Home – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blue Sky Behind Trees – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Boy in a Red Hat 2 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Abunda la Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Garden Apex – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bright Backyard Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Shaded Oleander Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reddish Orange Cactus Flower – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
White Paper Flowers – Beckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Hill through Palo Verde – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Little Pops of Purple – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Purple Spring – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bunch of Yellow Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Red Airplane – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset in Suburbia – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Comparison
In the three examples above, Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1 is on the left (revealed by moving the slider right), and Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2 is on the right (revealed by moving the slider left).
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As a bonus, I asked OpenAI’s DALL-E 2 AI image creator to show me what ChatGPT creating Film Simulation Recipes looks like. The results? Awful, but also kind of funny! I tried rewording the request several different ways in hopes of getting a better image, but it never really got any better.
Here are a few:
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Rodeo Cold – Cave Creek, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 24mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Is there a better way to get a retro film look? In my opinion, the answer is yes!
Notice that I didn’t say the best way, only a better way. The best way to get a retro film look is to shoot actual analog film on a retro film camera; however, film is expensive and the process inconvenient. Digital is much more convenient, but digital images inherently don’t resemble film—one must manipulate them. There are numerous programs, plugins, and presets that will provide you with a film look without a lot of fuss, but it does require some level of post-processing; editing pictures is a good way to get a retro film look, but a couple downsides are 1) you must have access to (and pay for) the software and know how to use it and 2) it takes time to edit all of your pictures. There is another way, which I believe is a better way.
It’s very simple: shoot JPEGs on Fujifilm cameras programmed with analog-likeFilm Simulation Recipes and use vintage lenses. I say that this is a better way because you can achieve a retro film look without the hassle of picture manipulation. Better, of course, is subjective, but this is an increasingly popular method, largely because more and more photographers are deciding that it is indeed a better way for them.
Fujifilm cameras are an important ingredient to this because, when programming their digital output, Fujifilm utilized their film department to assist with the image rendering. In other words, using their vast film experience, they set out to infuse an analog aesthetic into their digital photographs. Film Simulation Recipes take it a step further by fine-tuning the camera settings to better replicate specific film stocks and/or processes or mimicking certain looks. There are nearly 300 Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App (available for Android and Apple), so be sure to download it if it’s not already on your phone. You can do pretty much the same thing as Recipes with software, but it will not 100% match the straight-out-of-camera images and you will have to work for it (at least a little), while camera-made JPEGs are good-to-go without editing (the work is already done for you). This is a paradigm shift that can dramatically transform your workflow by drastically simplifying it, which saves you a lot of time, hassle, and potentially money, while simultaneously making photography more fun. Like I said: better.
The final ingredient is the glass. Modern lenses are often precision engineered, making them nearly flawless. That’s great if you want a digital look, but if you want a retro film look you should employ the same lenses that were used to shoot film, which often have flaws that give them character—an important aspect of the analog aesthetic. Find some old glass and shoot through it! You’ll need an adapter—the exact one depends on the mount of the lens—and set the camera to “Shoot Without Lens” in the Menu settings. These lenses are manual focus, which can be tricky at first, but thankfully Fujifilm provides you with some excellent tools to assist with it, making manual focus much easier and more enjoyable. Alternatively, you could use inexpensive third-party lenses, which often have similar characteristics to vintage lenses, and you won’t need a special adapter.
For the pictures in this article, I used a Fujifilm X-T5 programed with my AgfaChrome RS 100 Film Simulation Recipe shot through various tiny Pentax-110 lenses. The straight-out-of-camera results are very analog-like, and could probably pass as actual film photographs if I didn’t provide any background information. You’re not likely to think that these are out-of-camera pictures from a modern camera. If you weren’t convinced that they’re film, you’d likely assume some post-processing was done to make them appear film-like, yet they’re unedited. In any event, if you want a better way to get a retro film look, use Fujifilm cameras programmed with Film Simulation Recipes and shoot through vintage lenses. Simple. Easy. Convincing. Fun.
Colorful Wheel – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 24mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Turn Signal – Cave Creek, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 24mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Rockshop – Rock Springs, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 24mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Out the Upstairs Window – Rock Springs, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 24mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Pie – Rock Springs, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 24mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Kokopelli – Rock Springs, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 24mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Fuzzy – New River, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 70mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Yellow – New River, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 70mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Desert Spring – New River, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 70mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Two Cholla – New River, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 70mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Spring Lupine – New River, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 50mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Purple Lupine – New River, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 50mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Yellow Spring – New River, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 50mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
Blossoms Among Ocotillos – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Pentax-110 24mm – AgfaChrome RS 100
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I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With nearly 300 on the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each Recipe should be chosen. Besides, you only have C1-C7 Custom Presets on your Fujifilm camera (most of you, anyway). Which seven Recipes should you have programed? When should you select them?
To understand the idea behind this post, it’s important to go back to Part 1, which explains it all. Definitely review the earlier articles in this series if you never saw them or if it’s been awhile. When I started, the Fujifilm X-T5 wasn’t even announced yet, and I had zero X-Trans V Film Simulation Recipes. By the time I published Part 4, I had a couple of Recipes for the X-T5, but only a couple. This followup had to wait awhile.
I still don’t have a ton of X-Trans V Recipes, but I do have just enough that I could complete this Part 5. I do want this to be an ongoing series, but new posts will likely be few and far between, so don’t expect a Part 6 anytime soon.
Below I will suggest to you seven Film Simulation Recipes (one for each C1-C7 Custom Preset) for you to program into your Fujifilm X-Trans V camera, and state when to use each. If you have a Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, or X-H2S (or any other X-Trans V camera that is released after this is published), I invite you to try these Recipes for the situations that I recommend.
Flock of Cranes – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe
Kodak Portra 400 v2 is a Recipe that does well at anytime during daylight hours, and as the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but I’m going to recommend it specifically for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. This really could be your primary use-all-of-the-time Recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1, but when the sun is low to the horizon, make sure that this is the one you’re shooting with. I personally use this Recipe frequently.
More Than Double Wide – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer Recipe
You might be surprised that Kodachrome 64 didn’t make it to the top-spot on this category. I love that Recipe and think it’s a wonderful choice—don’t be afraid to choose it over this… or even over Kodak Portra 400 v2 for “golden hour” photography. Yet, for midday—which I’m defining as daylight that’s in-between the “golden hour” light of sunrise and sunset—I think 1970’s Summer is tough to beat. It’s not the most versatile Recipe, but if the sun is out, it’s an excellent option.
Rainy Day Window – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Ultramax 400 Recipe
For dreary overcast, Kodak Ultramax 400 is my favorite option. It is a versatile Recipe, so it’s not just good for rainy days, but many other situations, too, including golden hour, midday, shade, indoor, nighttime and more. This could be your go-to Film Simulation Recipe. Emulsion ’86 and Thommy’s Ektachrome are very good runners up, and could also be alternatives for C2.
Dark Coffee – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative Recipe
For natural light indoor photography, my top choice is the Timeless Negative Recipe (although any of the Recipes listed above this could work well, too). Timeless Negative is an all-rounder that could be used in most situations and produce excellent results, but specifically I’m recommending it for natural light indoor pictures. For artificial-light indoor images, use the recipes for nighttime photography below.
Night Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Superia Xtra 400 Recipe
I don’t yet have a “Tungsten” Film Simulation Recipe for X-Trans V, but that doesn’t mean you are out of luck. I’ve gotten good results at night with both Kodak Ultramax 400 and Timeless Negative, but Superia Xtra 400 is my favorite for after-dark photography. Superia Xtra 400 is also good for any of the C1-C4 situations mentioned above, as it’s a versatile Recipe—it’s another that could be your go-to for any situation. The two alternatives mentioned below are great options for golden hour or midday photography—I prefer both for that, and Pacific Blues is one of my absolute favorites—but I have also had decent results with those two Recipes at night, so they are worth your consideration (either in C5, or in C1 or C2).
In Parts 1-3, this category was called Alternative Process; however, for Part 4 and Part 5, since there is no Film Simulation Recipe that fits that category, it was renamed Wildcard. My top-option for it is Vintage Bronze, which produces vintage analog-like results in a variety of situations, including daylight and indoors. Alternatively, you could fill C6 with a favorite color Recipe that didn’t make it to C1-C5 above (such as Kodachrome 64 or Pacific Blues). Otherwise, the two options below are also great choices to program here.
Window Shade Pull – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Ilford FP4 Plus 125 Recipe
Technically speaking, Ilford FP4 Plus 125 is the only black-and-white Film Simulation Recipe made specifically for X-Trans V cameras—and it’s a very good Recipe! But, X-Trans IV B&W Recipes are also compatible with X-Trans V cameras, and of those Kodak Tri-X 400 is my all-time favorite. I definitely recommend that one, but Ilford FP4 Plus 125 is excellent, too.
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Thomas was simply trying to make a Recipe using the Nostalgic Neg. film sim that would be good for portraits. The Recipe he created has a distinctive Ektachrome aesthetic, especially similar to National Geographic photographs prior to Ektachrome’s discontinuation by 2013 (prior to the revival in 2018). That was, of course, by chance and not intentional, but there certainly are some similarities, and why this Recipe is called Thommy’s Ektachrome. It’s not only good for portraits, but also landscapes and I’m sure many genres of photography. This Recipe does particularly well in sunny daylight, but is good for overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.
Way Over That Way – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Because this Thommy’s Ektachrome Film Simulation Recipe uses the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, it is only compatible with the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S (as well as any other X-Trans V camera released after this article is published). Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too, although it will probably render slightly different (but try it anyway!).
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5000K, -1 Red & +3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: +1.5 Shadow: +1.5 Color: +1 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +0 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using Thommy’s Ektachrome Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Amanda Using RitchieCam– Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Caterpillar Blossoms – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wildflower Spring – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lupine – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Colors of Spring – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rain on a Green Leaf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Raindrops on Rose Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Trumpet Flower in Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water Drop on a Lightbulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spring Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Breakfast – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fallen Tree over Sabino Creek – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sabino Creek – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Waterfall from Snowmelt – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Waterfall over Stone – Summerhaven, AZ -Fujifilm X-T5
Historic Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon in the Forest – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reserved – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Two at the Overlook – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Old Man at the Vista – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Mountains – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rock Climbers – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Resting on Top – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Pine – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960 Recipe
I love Arizona Highways magazine! When I was a kid, my grandparents, who lived in Arizona, would give me their old copies of the publication. The pictures were always amazing. I didn’t know it at the time, but that simple act had a profound impact on my life. Eventually I would become a photographer, and I would be significantly influenced by the pictures from that magazine.
For those who don’t know, Arizona Highways is a magazine with an important history. It began in 1925, and in 1946 published the world’s first all-color publication. From the beginning, Arizona Highways has been dedicated to the art of photography. Ansel Adams was a regular contributor. Barry Goldwater, Ray Manley, Chuck Abbott, David and Josef Muench, Ed Ellinger, Esther Henderson, and many other talented photographers were often featured. The publication is full of wonderful images even to this day. While it is not purely a photography magazine, Arizona Highways is a publication that photographers love due to their passion for the medium.
I recently found the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways in a used bookstore. It has page after page of amazing photography! I really love the look of the pictures in this particular issue—while not every image looks alike, there is definitely a commonality to the photo aesthetic. I suppose that some of it is due to the printing process, which the magazine proudly claims is “Micro-Color Lithography” printed on “Glossette Offset Enamel 70-pound base” paper. I believe that the age of the magazine—now over 62-yeas-old!—has something to do with it, as color photographs and pages have a tendency to fade and discolor over time. What about the film? Well, there’s that, too.
Agaves in 1960 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960 Recipe Photo of a page in the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways magazine.
In the back of the magazine is a page that provides detailed notes on all of the photographs. For example, the picture shown in the magazine above—entitled The Blossoming Agaves—was photographed by Chuck Abbott in July 1960 during midday using a 5×7 Deardorff View camera set to f/18 and 1/10 shutter on Kodachrome, which had an ISO of 10. You might note that this is the “Sunny 16 Rule” except underexposed by 1/3 stop (presumably to protect the highlights). The detailed notes that were provided are a real treasure trove!
The vast majority of the pictures in the December 1960 issue were captured on Ektachrome. Now Ektachrome prior to 1955 used the E1 development process and was ISO 10, from 1955 to 1958 used the E2 development process and was ISO 32, and from 1959 to 1965 used E3 and was ISO 50—this particular issue had a mix of all three of those Ektachromes. A few Ascochrome images were also published, and those have a look that’s noticeably different than the Ektachrome and Kodachrome pictures. One image was captured on Ektacolor negative film, and that’s the only picture in the issue that wasn’t shot on slide film. Many of the photographs printed in the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways were captured during the spring, summer, or fall of 1960.
Inspired by the aesthetic of the pictures found in the magazine, I set out to mimic the look with my Fujifilm X-T5. After a little fiddling and trial-and-error, I was able to get surprisingly close—almost an exact match to some of the pictures! There are certainly some similarities to both the Ektachrome and Kodachrome photographs published in the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways, some of which were captured in the summer of 1960, hence the name of this Film Simulation Recipe.
Saguaro Spines – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960 Recipe
Because this Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe uses the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, it is only compatible with the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S (as well as any other X-Trans V camera released after this article is published). Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too, although it will probably render slightly different (but try it anyway!). This Recipe seems especially well suited for sunny daylight photography, and does alright in overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 5250K, -3 Red & -5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +4 Shadow: +2 Color: +3 Sharpness: -4 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Green Growth Under Dormant Trees – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Falling Rain on Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea on a Sunny Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Oleander and Palm Tree – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
March Palms – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Agua Caliente Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Palm and Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Manmade Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ham & Cheddar – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon by a Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ranch House & Palm – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Blossom by Blue Window – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Door Lamp – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunlight Pines – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Light Pouring Downhill – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Leftover Forest Snow – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Small Waterfall – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Evergreen Forest – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Icy Mountain Road – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blue Sky & Green Pines – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Evening at an American Mountain – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Eastern Mountains at Sunset – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rincon Peak at Sunset – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Small Water Fountain at Sunset – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Green Hills – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
This Film Simulation Recipe is intended to mimic Kodachrome 25 color transparency film, which was introduced in 1974, replacing the similar Kodachrome II emulsion. I was fortunate to shoot a few rolls of Kodachrome 25. It was a beautiful film, and probably the sharpest color film ever made, but its low ISO made it difficult to use. Kodachrome 64, which was still a low-ISO film, was significantly faster. The major differences between the two Kodachrome emulsions is that the ISO 25 version was sharper and less grainy, while the ISO 64 version was more contrasty, vibrant and a hair warmer. Both were very similar, though, and it would be hard to spot the differences without a close inspection. Some people preferred the slightly more subtle tones and finer detail of Kodachrome 25, and some preferred the faintly punchier pictures rendered on Kodachrome 64. Kodak discontinued Kodachrome in 2009.
No Lifeguard at 8 – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
This Kodachrome 25 Film Simulation Recipe is intended for Fujifilm X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) include the X-H2, X-H2S, and X-T5 cameras. It’s compatible with newer GFX models too, but will likely render slightly different on those cameras. Those with an X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II, try the Kodachrome 25 Recipe for those models (click here).
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Daylight, +2 Red & -4 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +0.5 Shadow: -0.5 Color: +1 Sharpness: +3 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 1600 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodachrome 25” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Veteran – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dormant Trees Reflected – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
White Flowers Faux – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunrise Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pink on a Grey Day – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Backyard Joy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wet Haired Boy – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Raymond Photographing Flowers – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cholla Arms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rock Ridge – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Flowers in the Dry Desert – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Remnants of a Tree – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Prickles – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Cacti – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tall Cactus – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
***Note: When this Kodachrome 25 Film Simulation Recipe was first published, this article mistakenly listed Auto instead of Daylight for White Balance. In the Fuji X Weekly App it has always been correct.***
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We’re almost done with the first two months of 2023! Time is just flying by—I wish it would slow down a little. Anyway, I thought it would be interesting to look at the lenses that I’m using the most so far this year.
The number-one most used lens is the one permanently attached to my Fujifilm X100V. So far, I’ve been picking up that model more this year than last. I’ve had the X100V for almost three years now, and it remains my favorite camera. For the sake of this article, though, I will only be discussing interchangeable lenses and not fixed, so the one on the X100V doesn’t count.
The methodology of this Top 5 list is simple: I reviewed my pictures captured in 2023, and noted which lenses were used. After tallying the results, I made this list. In other words, this list is simply my most-used lenses, which doesn’t necessarily mean best or favorite, although it certainly indirectly speaks something to that effect—if I didn’t like it, I wouldn’t use it so much, right? With that said, here are my Top 5 lenses so far in 2023!
The Fujinon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 is my most expensive lens, and one of my least used. It comes in handy every once in awhile; however, it’s big and heavy, and not particularly convenient for carrying around, so it often stays at home unused. I’ve made a couple half-hearted attempts to sell it, but (for now) I still own it. I used it a couple of times in January, but on both occasions I switched it out for another lens after only a short while.
Surprising to me, the 100-400mm lens was used more than any of my vintage lenses. I love shooting with old manual lenses, but so far this year I haven’t done much of that; instead, the 100-400mm—despite limited use—was attached to my camera more, and snuck into number five on this list.
Green Desert Trail – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujinon 100-400mm – CineStill 400D v1
#4: Fujinon 18-55mm F/2.8-4
The Fujinon 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens came bundled with my first Fujifilm camera, the X-E1. I used the lens for a few months and then sold it, because I’ve always been a prime lens photographer, and not a zoom. This last November I purchased a Fujifilm X-T5 bundled with the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens, and I used this lens a lot for the first five or six weeks, but have since slowed down considerably, choosing prime lenses much more often instead of the zoom. My wife has found that she likes it for video, so she borrows it sometimes.
As far as zooms go, the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 is pretty darn good. I like the lens. I find myself using it at certain focal lengths—18mm, 23mm, 35mm, 55mm—and it’s amazing that one compact zoom can do the work of four primes. But I still prefer primes, so this lens only made it to number four, and a pretty good distance behind the next.
Before I purchased the Fujinon 27mm f/2.8, the Fujinon 35mm f/2 was my favorite and most used lens. It was almost always attached to my camera. But, after the arrival of the 27mm pancake, it got put on the shelf. Then my wife, Amanda, discovered that she really likes the 27mm lens, too, so now we share it. Whenever Amanda is using the 27mm, I’m often using the Fujinon 35mm f/2. Yes, it might be a consolation prize, but it is still a fantastic lens that I like using.
Let me point out something about the Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens that I have noticed: whenever I use it, I seem to have a pretty strong hit rate. I really like the pictures I capture with it. For that reason, there have been a couple of times where the 27mm pancake was available, but I chose the 35mm instead.
I have used the Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 pancake lens just barely more often than 35mm f/2 so far this year. I’ve often said that the 27mm f/2.8 is my favorite lens, and it was by far my most used lens in 2022 (even more than the one permanently attached to my X100V). I love the small size, focal length, and image quality. When I purchased this lens, I had no idea that I’d like it so much.
Through the first two months, the Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 not only slipped to number two, but it almost fell one more spot. I do suspect that I’ll continue to use it often, and it is still one of my favorite lenses, but I’m not sure I can confidently state that it is my absolute favorite lens like I have previously. I still love it, though.
When I reviewed my pictures from 2022, I noticed that, despite using the Fujinon 90mm f/2 less than some other lenses, many of my favorite pictures were captured through its glass. So, in 2023, I’m trying to use it more. I find the focal length challenging sometimes, but when it does work out, the results are stunning. The 90mm lens is my wife’s other favorite lens, so I share it with her, and it’s not always available when I want to use it.
I hope when I look back at the end of the year, the Fujinon 90mm f/2 will continue to be at the top of this list. The pictures that I capture with it are some of my favorites, so it only makes sense to use it as often as I can.
I was actually very nervous for several reasons. First, I’m an introvert, and meeting new people always makes me a little apprehensive. Second, Leigh and Raymond are big names in photography. They have been successful YouTubers for many years. They are well connected within the industry. It’s kind of like meeting an actor, musician, or sports star. Third, Raymond does ultramarathons; while I might make a special effort to get to Dairy Queen if Blizzards are half off, I’m definitely not doing normal marathons let alone the David Goggins kind—and we were scheduled for a hike through the desert. I wasn’t sure what it would entail, or how intense this adventure might get.
It turns out that I had nothing to worry about. Raymond was super nice. The hike was easy and relatively short—definitely something someone with my “skills” and “experience” (or lack thereof) could accomplish. We had a great time. It was really good to meet up for some desert photography.
Raymond and I — Captured with RitchieCam on my iPhone
I used my Fujifilm X-T5 and Fujinon 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens for this outing. I chose and programmed into the camera my Kodachrome 25 Film Simulation Recipe because I thought it would do well in this scenario (which I’ll get to in just a moment) and because I’m converting this Recipe for the X-T5. You see, X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, but the fix is simple: if an X-Trans IV Recipe that uses Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, or Eterna Bleach Bypass calls for Color Chrome FX Blue set to Strong, change it to Weak on X-Trans V, and if it calls for Color Chrome FX Blue set to Weak, change it to Off. The Kodachrome 25 Recipe calls for Color Chrome FX Blue set to Strong, so I adjusted it to Weak on my X-T5.
I decided that the Kodachrome 25 Recipe would be good for this scenario because of its characteristics. Kodachrome 25 film had low contrast (for slide film), slightly subdued saturation, and true-to-life (yet Kodak-warm) colors. It was regarded as the sharpest, most fine grained emulsion on the market, and was a popular choice for commercial photography. With an ISO of 25, some found this film to be challenging to use, so the higher-ISO Kodachrome 64, which had a little boost in contrast and saturation, was a more common option. Still, plenty of Kodachrome 25 pictures graced the pages of publications such as National Geographic and Arizona Highways, and I wanted to replicate that classic aesthetic for my desert images. It was forecasted to be overcast with perhaps some peeking sun, and the Kodachrome 25 Recipe does well in that weather—not too warm or cool, and not too much or too little contrast.
If this had been film, I would have shot two rolls of 24-exposure Kodachrome 25 (yes, it was by chance exactly 48 exposures). Of course, Kodachrome has long been discontinued, so shooting with this Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm camera is probably the closest you can get to shooting with the emulsion. The Kodachrome 25 frames in this article are my 12 favorites from that desert outing with Raymond. I hope you enjoy!
Rock Ridge – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
Raymond Photographing Flowers – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
Flowers in the Dry Desert – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
Remnants of a Tree – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
I purchased my Fujifilm X-T5 when it was released back in November. I’ve received several messages lately asking why I haven’t published a review of the new camera. I think it’s because they are considering buying one themselves, and they want to know if it’s actually “worth” upgrading to or if there is something they should be aware of. Basically, some people want to either be talked into buying it or talked out of buying it, as it’s a lot of money and a big decision—which can be paralyzing—and you want to be wise with it. Lots of research is essential, and finding opinions from those you trust can be invaluable. I’m honored and flattered that many of you consider this website to be trustworthy.
At the beginning of each year, I like to take some time to consider how things went the prior year, what the current trajectory is, and where I want things to go. For Fuji X Weekly, I really feel that a slight shift in trajectory is needed, and in some ways I began moving towards that last year, even if I wasn’t sure the why and where. After much consideration, I have a clearer vision of where I want this website to go in 2023, and how to achieve it. I haven’t communicated these changes to you (until now, I suppose), but you’ve probably already noticed some.
There’s actually a lot going on behind the scenes. Many different projects are in the works. I’m juggling quite a bit right now. When the time is right, there are many exciting things that I look forward to announcing and sharing with you. Some projects might never work out, which has happened before (that’s just they way it goes sometimes), but I do believe that most of these will come to fruition. Some will take much longer than others, so stay tuned for these announcements over the coming weeks and months.
One thing that I haven’t announced (but you might have already picked up on) is that I’m doing more to explain and suggest when to use various Film Simulation Recipes. There are so many to choose from, and it can be difficult to know which to try. Then, when you find one you like, maybe the weather or light changes, and you don’t like it nearly so much in that situation. Now what do you do?
The trouble with suggesting Recipes is that, while one person might love one for a certain light and situation, another person might hate it for the same light and situation. For example, in the very same day, one photographer told me that they used the Kodak Portra 400 Recipe for a professional portraiture photo shoot and they couldn’t be more happy with the results, while another photographer told me that they tried that same Recipe for portraits and the results were horrible. Each person has their own tastes and style, and what will work for one person won’t work for another. I could suggest to you the Recipes that I think are good for various situations, but you might completely disagree with my assessment. Still, it can be helpful have a starting point.
None of this is completely new. For example, in the SOOC Livebroadcasts, not only have we discussed at length a Film Simulation Recipe in each show, but for awhile now we’ve suggested several Recipe for use in specific situations or for various genres of photography. Without giving away what’s in store of Season 3, which kicks off tomorrow, I can tell you that we’re doubling-down on that concept. Be sure to tune in, and subscribe to the new SOOC Live YouTube channel.
What does any of this have to do with a review of the Fujifilm X-T5? Simple: I’m moving away from product reviews. For now—and I don’t know if this will last forever or if it’s just for a time—I won’t be publishing any camera or lens reviews. I want to focus a lot less on telling you what is good or bad about various gear, and focus more on how to use your get to achieve the aesthetics you want straight-out-of-camera. I’m not going to publish a review of the X-T5, but instead publish more articles on using Recipes with that camera (and other camera, too, definitely not just or even mostly the X-T5). I want to help you get the results you want out of your camera, and product reviews, which take a lot of time to put together, get in the way of that. Besides, there are so many reviews of the Fujifilm X-T5 already, what could I possibly add? The only things I would say is that X-Trans V renders the color blue slightly deeper on some film simulations, Auto White Balance can be quirky, Nostalgic Neg. is similar to Eterna, and if you are doing long broadcasts the camera might overheat. Those are the only things that I would add to what others have discussed, and I’ve already said them. If you have been waiting patiently for my review (that won’t come), I hope this is somehow helpful to your decision to buy or not buy; mostly I would say trust your gut, because deep down you know whether or not you actually “need” that new camera, or if it’s just Gear Acquisition Syndrome, New Camera Envy, or Fear of Missing Out.
While not publishing camera and lens reviews might be seen as negative, I hope that the revised vision for Fuji X Weekly is very positive, and that the benefits of the changes far outweigh what must be left behind. I invite you to come along for the ride, and let’s see where all of this goes.
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You might very well know exactly which Film Simulation Recipes to use on your Fujifilm X-T5, but in case you are unsure, below are five that you should definitely try.
Kodachrome 64 replicates the aesthetic of the beloved Kodachrome color slide film from Kodak, which graced the covers of magazines like National Geographic and Arizona Highways. This is a great option for sunny daytime photography. Looking for a 1980’s or 1990’s vibe? Try this Recipe!
The Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe is modeled after the popular Kodak color negative film. Excellent for sunny daylight and especially golden hour photography; as the name suggests, this is good for outdoor portraits. Looking for a contemporary film aesthetic? They this one!
Produces a look similar to the Kodak Ultramax 400 color negative emulsion. Because this Recipe uses Auto White Balance, it has a lot of versatility, and is good for many different situations, including daylight, shade, overcast, indoor, and nighttime. Want a 1990’s and 2000’s look? Give this recipe a try!
Pacific Blues is modeled after Lucy Laucht‘s Spirit of Summer series, particularly the Positano Blues photographs. While it is intended for the endless sun of a summer day at the beach, it’s also good for dramatic results in a number of situations, including dreary overcast and fog. Want a contemporary analog aesthetic with nostalgic vibes? This Recipe is for you!
“The effect of one-step processing on both amateur and professional creative photography has been revolutionary.”
—Ansel Adams, Polaroid Land Camera
I woke up this morning unsure what to write about. It just so happened that I had a handful of exposures I captured yesterday evening still sitting on the SD Card in my Fujifilm X-T5. Using Fujifilm’s Cam Remote App, I transferred the pictures from the camera to my iPhone, cropped and straightened a few of them, and uploaded the images to cloud storage. It took maybe 10 minutes tops start-to-finish, and I don’t even think it was that long. One-step photography, which removes the second-step (the editing step), is truly revolutionary, just as Ansel Adams stated. Of course he was talking about instant film—something he was a big fan of—and we’re talking about straight-out-of-camera JPEGs, something that I’m a big fan of. Now I know what to write about today!
First Sign of Spring – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 35mm f/2 – “Vintage Bronze” Recipe
Why is shooting straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) JPEGs revolutionary?
First, it allows for a faster, more streamlined workflow. When you use Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes, the camera does all the post-processing work for you. You don’t have to spend hours and hours sitting in front of a computer fiddling with images. This can save you an extensive amount of time and effort, which can significantly increase your productivity, plus make photography more enjoyable. It’s not only a faster workflow, but an easier workflow. Achieving a desired aesthetic is as simple as programming the correct recipe into your camera.
Next, SOOC JPEGs allow you to be more consistent. Because the camera is applying the recipes, the photographer doesn’t have to worry about inconsistencies in their editing process. This makes achieving cohesive results for a photo series or project much easier.
Also, JPEGs are more efficient than RAW in terms of storage space. You don’t need to buy a larger SD Card or external hard drive or pay for more cloud storage nearly as quickly. Upload and download times are faster. You have a ready-to-share photo the moment that it’s captured—you don’t have to wait for a program to process it first.
Jon at the Fishin’ Pond – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 35mm f/2 – “Vintage Bronze” Recipe
Finally, SOOC JPEGs might be considered more authentic. Film Simulation Recipes often replicate the look and feel of classic film stocks and processes, and seem less digital-like in their rendering. There is a growing sentiment among photography consumers (not photographers, but those who view pictures) that “Photoshop” is bad, and picture manipulation equals people manipulation; however, unedited images don’t carry that stigma, and can come across as more authentic.
All of this and more are why there is a revolution in photography right now. More and more photographers—from first-camera beginners to experienced pros with recognizable names—are using Film Simulation Recipes and shooting SOOC JPEGs. It’s a growing trend, and I believe it will become much bigger in the coming years. I’m truly honored to be a part of it, and I’m glad that you’ve come along for the ride.
