Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960 Recipe
I love Arizona Highways magazine! When I was a kid, my grandparents, who lived in Arizona, would give me their old copies of the publication. The pictures were always amazing. I didn’t know it at the time, but that simple act had a profound impact on my life. Eventually I would become a photographer, and I would be significantly influenced by the pictures from that magazine.
For those who don’t know, Arizona Highways is a magazine with an important history. It began in 1925, and in 1946 published the world’s first all-color publication. From the beginning, Arizona Highways has been dedicated to the art of photography. Ansel Adams was a regular contributor. Barry Goldwater, Ray Manley, Chuck Abbott, David and Josef Muench, Ed Ellinger, Esther Henderson, and many other talented photographers were often featured. The publication is full of wonderful images even to this day. While it is not purely a photography magazine, Arizona Highways is a publication that photographers love due to their passion for the medium.
I recently found the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways in a used bookstore. It has page after page of amazing photography! I really love the look of the pictures in this particular issue—while not every image looks alike, there is definitely a commonality to the photo aesthetic. I suppose that some of it is due to the printing process, which the magazine proudly claims is “Micro-Color Lithography” printed on “Glossette Offset Enamel 70-pound base” paper. I believe that the age of the magazine—now over 62-yeas-old!—has something to do with it, as color photographs and pages have a tendency to fade and discolor over time. What about the film? Well, there’s that, too.
Agaves in 1960 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960 Recipe Photo of a page in the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways magazine.
In the back of the magazine is a page that provides detailed notes on all of the photographs. For example, the picture shown in the magazine above—entitled The Blossoming Agaves—was photographed by Chuck Abbott in July 1960 during midday using a 5×7 Deardorff View camera set to f/18 and 1/10 shutter on Kodachrome, which had an ISO of 10. You might note that this is the “Sunny 16 Rule” except underexposed by 1/3 stop (presumably to protect the highlights). The detailed notes that were provided are a real treasure trove!
The vast majority of the pictures in the December 1960 issue were captured on Ektachrome. Now Ektachrome prior to 1955 used the E1 development process and was ISO 10, from 1955 to 1958 used the E2 development process and was ISO 32, and from 1959 to 1965 used E3 and was ISO 50—this particular issue had a mix of all three of those Ektachromes. A few Ascochrome images were also published, and those have a look that’s noticeably different than the Ektachrome and Kodachrome pictures. One image was captured on Ektacolor negative film, and that’s the only picture in the issue that wasn’t shot on slide film. Many of the photographs printed in the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways were captured during the spring, summer, or fall of 1960.
Inspired by the aesthetic of the pictures found in the magazine, I set out to mimic the look with my Fujifilm X-T5. After a little fiddling and trial-and-error, I was able to get surprisingly close—almost an exact match to some of the pictures! There are certainly some similarities to both the Ektachrome and Kodachrome photographs published in the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways, some of which were captured in the summer of 1960, hence the name of this Film Simulation Recipe.
Saguaro Spines – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960 Recipe
Because this Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe uses the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, it is only compatible with the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S (as well as any other X-Trans V camera released after this article is published). Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too, although it will probably render slightly different (but try it anyway!). This Recipe seems especially well suited for sunny daylight photography, and does alright in overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 5250K, -3 Red & -5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +4 Shadow: +2 Color: +3 Sharpness: -4 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Green Growth Under Dormant Trees – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Falling Rain on Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea on a Sunny Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Oleander and Palm Tree – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
March Palms – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Agua Caliente Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Palm and Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Manmade Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ham & Cheddar – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon by a Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ranch House & Palm – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Blossom by Blue Window – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Door Lamp – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunlight Pines – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Light Pouring Downhill – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Leftover Forest Snow – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Small Waterfall – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Evergreen Forest – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Icy Mountain Road – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blue Sky & Green Pines – Summerhaven, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Evening at an American Mountain – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Eastern Mountains at Sunset – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rincon Peak at Sunset – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Small Water Fountain at Sunset – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Green Hills – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
This Film Simulation Recipe is intended to mimic Kodachrome 25 color transparency film, which was introduced in 1974, replacing the similar Kodachrome II emulsion. I was fortunate to shoot a few rolls of Kodachrome 25. It was a beautiful film, and probably the sharpest color film ever made, but its low ISO made it difficult to use. Kodachrome 64, which was still a low-ISO film, was significantly faster. The major differences between the two Kodachrome emulsions is that the ISO 25 version was sharper and less grainy, while the ISO 64 version was more contrasty, vibrant and a hair warmer. Both were very similar, though, and it would be hard to spot the differences without a close inspection. Some people preferred the slightly more subtle tones and finer detail of Kodachrome 25, and some preferred the faintly punchier pictures rendered on Kodachrome 64. Kodak discontinued Kodachrome in 2009.
No Lifeguard at 8 – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
This Kodachrome 25 Film Simulation Recipe is intended for Fujifilm X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) include the X-H2, X-H2S, and X-T5 cameras. It’s compatible with newer GFX models too, but will likely render slightly different on those cameras. Those with an X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II, try the Kodachrome 25 Recipe for those models (click here).
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Daylight, +2 Red & -4 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +0.5 Shadow: -0.5 Color: +1 Sharpness: +3 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 1600 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodachrome 25” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Veteran – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dormant Trees Reflected – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
White Flowers Faux – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunrise Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pink on a Grey Day – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5
Backyard Joy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wet Haired Boy – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Raymond Photographing Flowers – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cholla Arms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rock Ridge – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Flowers in the Dry Desert – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Remnants of a Tree – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Prickles – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Cacti – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tall Cactus – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
***Note: When this Kodachrome 25 Film Simulation Recipe was first published, this article mistakenly listed Auto instead of Daylight for White Balance. In the Fuji X Weekly App it has always been correct.***
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We’re almost done with the first two months of 2023! Time is just flying by—I wish it would slow down a little. Anyway, I thought it would be interesting to look at the lenses that I’m using the most so far this year.
The number-one most used lens is the one permanently attached to my Fujifilm X100V. So far, I’ve been picking up that model more this year than last. I’ve had the X100V for almost three years now, and it remains my favorite camera. For the sake of this article, though, I will only be discussing interchangeable lenses and not fixed, so the one on the X100V doesn’t count.
The methodology of this Top 5 list is simple: I reviewed my pictures captured in 2023, and noted which lenses were used. After tallying the results, I made this list. In other words, this list is simply my most-used lenses, which doesn’t necessarily mean best or favorite, although it certainly indirectly speaks something to that effect—if I didn’t like it, I wouldn’t use it so much, right? With that said, here are my Top 5 lenses so far in 2023!
The Fujinon 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 is my most expensive lens, and one of my least used. It comes in handy every once in awhile; however, it’s big and heavy, and not particularly convenient for carrying around, so it often stays at home unused. I’ve made a couple half-hearted attempts to sell it, but (for now) I still own it. I used it a couple of times in January, but on both occasions I switched it out for another lens after only a short while.
Surprising to me, the 100-400mm lens was used more than any of my vintage lenses. I love shooting with old manual lenses, but so far this year I haven’t done much of that; instead, the 100-400mm—despite limited use—was attached to my camera more, and snuck into number five on this list.
Green Desert Trail – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 + Fujinon 100-400mm – CineStill 400D v1
#4: Fujinon 18-55mm F/2.8-4
The Fujinon 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens came bundled with my first Fujifilm camera, the X-E1. I used the lens for a few months and then sold it, because I’ve always been a prime lens photographer, and not a zoom. This last November I purchased a Fujifilm X-T5 bundled with the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens, and I used this lens a lot for the first five or six weeks, but have since slowed down considerably, choosing prime lenses much more often instead of the zoom. My wife has found that she likes it for video, so she borrows it sometimes.
As far as zooms go, the 18-55mm f/2.8-4 is pretty darn good. I like the lens. I find myself using it at certain focal lengths—18mm, 23mm, 35mm, 55mm—and it’s amazing that one compact zoom can do the work of four primes. But I still prefer primes, so this lens only made it to number four, and a pretty good distance behind the next.
Before I purchased the Fujinon 27mm f/2.8, the Fujinon 35mm f/2 was my favorite and most used lens. It was almost always attached to my camera. But, after the arrival of the 27mm pancake, it got put on the shelf. Then my wife, Amanda, discovered that she really likes the 27mm lens, too, so now we share it. Whenever Amanda is using the 27mm, I’m often using the Fujinon 35mm f/2. Yes, it might be a consolation prize, but it is still a fantastic lens that I like using.
Let me point out something about the Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens that I have noticed: whenever I use it, I seem to have a pretty strong hit rate. I really like the pictures I capture with it. For that reason, there have been a couple of times where the 27mm pancake was available, but I chose the 35mm instead.
I have used the Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 pancake lens just barely more often than 35mm f/2 so far this year. I’ve often said that the 27mm f/2.8 is my favorite lens, and it was by far my most used lens in 2022 (even more than the one permanently attached to my X100V). I love the small size, focal length, and image quality. When I purchased this lens, I had no idea that I’d like it so much.
Through the first two months, the Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 not only slipped to number two, but it almost fell one more spot. I do suspect that I’ll continue to use it often, and it is still one of my favorite lenses, but I’m not sure I can confidently state that it is my absolute favorite lens like I have previously. I still love it, though.
When I reviewed my pictures from 2022, I noticed that, despite using the Fujinon 90mm f/2 less than some other lenses, many of my favorite pictures were captured through its glass. So, in 2023, I’m trying to use it more. I find the focal length challenging sometimes, but when it does work out, the results are stunning. The 90mm lens is my wife’s other favorite lens, so I share it with her, and it’s not always available when I want to use it.
I hope when I look back at the end of the year, the Fujinon 90mm f/2 will continue to be at the top of this list. The pictures that I capture with it are some of my favorites, so it only makes sense to use it as often as I can.
I was actually very nervous for several reasons. First, I’m an introvert, and meeting new people always makes me a little apprehensive. Second, Leigh and Raymond are big names in photography. They have been successful YouTubers for many years. They are well connected within the industry. It’s kind of like meeting an actor, musician, or sports star. Third, Raymond does ultramarathons; while I might make a special effort to get to Dairy Queen if Blizzards are half off, I’m definitely not doing normal marathons let alone the David Goggins kind—and we were scheduled for a hike through the desert. I wasn’t sure what it would entail, or how intense this adventure might get.
It turns out that I had nothing to worry about. Raymond was super nice. The hike was easy and relatively short—definitely something someone with my “skills” and “experience” (or lack thereof) could accomplish. We had a great time. It was really good to meet up for some desert photography.
Raymond and I — Captured with RitchieCam on my iPhone
I used my Fujifilm X-T5 and Fujinon 18-55mm f/2.8-4 lens for this outing. I chose and programmed into the camera my Kodachrome 25 Film Simulation Recipe because I thought it would do well in this scenario (which I’ll get to in just a moment) and because I’m converting this Recipe for the X-T5. You see, X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, but the fix is simple: if an X-Trans IV Recipe that uses Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, or Eterna Bleach Bypass calls for Color Chrome FX Blue set to Strong, change it to Weak on X-Trans V, and if it calls for Color Chrome FX Blue set to Weak, change it to Off. The Kodachrome 25 Recipe calls for Color Chrome FX Blue set to Strong, so I adjusted it to Weak on my X-T5.
I decided that the Kodachrome 25 Recipe would be good for this scenario because of its characteristics. Kodachrome 25 film had low contrast (for slide film), slightly subdued saturation, and true-to-life (yet Kodak-warm) colors. It was regarded as the sharpest, most fine grained emulsion on the market, and was a popular choice for commercial photography. With an ISO of 25, some found this film to be challenging to use, so the higher-ISO Kodachrome 64, which had a little boost in contrast and saturation, was a more common option. Still, plenty of Kodachrome 25 pictures graced the pages of publications such as National Geographic and Arizona Highways, and I wanted to replicate that classic aesthetic for my desert images. It was forecasted to be overcast with perhaps some peeking sun, and the Kodachrome 25 Recipe does well in that weather—not too warm or cool, and not too much or too little contrast.
If this had been film, I would have shot two rolls of 24-exposure Kodachrome 25 (yes, it was by chance exactly 48 exposures). Of course, Kodachrome has long been discontinued, so shooting with this Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm camera is probably the closest you can get to shooting with the emulsion. The Kodachrome 25 frames in this article are my 12 favorites from that desert outing with Raymond. I hope you enjoy!
Rock Ridge – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
Raymond Photographing Flowers – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
Flowers in the Dry Desert – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
Remnants of a Tree – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodachrome 25 Recipe
I purchased my Fujifilm X-T5 when it was released back in November. I’ve received several messages lately asking why I haven’t published a review of the new camera. I think it’s because they are considering buying one themselves, and they want to know if it’s actually “worth” upgrading to or if there is something they should be aware of. Basically, some people want to either be talked into buying it or talked out of buying it, as it’s a lot of money and a big decision—which can be paralyzing—and you want to be wise with it. Lots of research is essential, and finding opinions from those you trust can be invaluable. I’m honored and flattered that many of you consider this website to be trustworthy.
At the beginning of each year, I like to take some time to consider how things went the prior year, what the current trajectory is, and where I want things to go. For Fuji X Weekly, I really feel that a slight shift in trajectory is needed, and in some ways I began moving towards that last year, even if I wasn’t sure the why and where. After much consideration, I have a clearer vision of where I want this website to go in 2023, and how to achieve it. I haven’t communicated these changes to you (until now, I suppose), but you’ve probably already noticed some.
There’s actually a lot going on behind the scenes. Many different projects are in the works. I’m juggling quite a bit right now. When the time is right, there are many exciting things that I look forward to announcing and sharing with you. Some projects might never work out, which has happened before (that’s just they way it goes sometimes), but I do believe that most of these will come to fruition. Some will take much longer than others, so stay tuned for these announcements over the coming weeks and months.
One thing that I haven’t announced (but you might have already picked up on) is that I’m doing more to explain and suggest when to use various Film Simulation Recipes. There are so many to choose from, and it can be difficult to know which to try. Then, when you find one you like, maybe the weather or light changes, and you don’t like it nearly so much in that situation. Now what do you do?
The trouble with suggesting Recipes is that, while one person might love one for a certain light and situation, another person might hate it for the same light and situation. For example, in the very same day, one photographer told me that they used the Kodak Portra 400 Recipe for a professional portraiture photo shoot and they couldn’t be more happy with the results, while another photographer told me that they tried that same Recipe for portraits and the results were horrible. Each person has their own tastes and style, and what will work for one person won’t work for another. I could suggest to you the Recipes that I think are good for various situations, but you might completely disagree with my assessment. Still, it can be helpful have a starting point.
None of this is completely new. For example, in the SOOC Livebroadcasts, not only have we discussed at length a Film Simulation Recipe in each show, but for awhile now we’ve suggested several Recipe for use in specific situations or for various genres of photography. Without giving away what’s in store of Season 3, which kicks off tomorrow, I can tell you that we’re doubling-down on that concept. Be sure to tune in, and subscribe to the new SOOC Live YouTube channel.
What does any of this have to do with a review of the Fujifilm X-T5? Simple: I’m moving away from product reviews. For now—and I don’t know if this will last forever or if it’s just for a time—I won’t be publishing any camera or lens reviews. I want to focus a lot less on telling you what is good or bad about various gear, and focus more on how to use your get to achieve the aesthetics you want straight-out-of-camera. I’m not going to publish a review of the X-T5, but instead publish more articles on using Recipes with that camera (and other camera, too, definitely not just or even mostly the X-T5). I want to help you get the results you want out of your camera, and product reviews, which take a lot of time to put together, get in the way of that. Besides, there are so many reviews of the Fujifilm X-T5 already, what could I possibly add? The only things I would say is that X-Trans V renders the color blue slightly deeper on some film simulations, Auto White Balance can be quirky, Nostalgic Neg. is similar to Eterna, and if you are doing long broadcasts the camera might overheat. Those are the only things that I would add to what others have discussed, and I’ve already said them. If you have been waiting patiently for my review (that won’t come), I hope this is somehow helpful to your decision to buy or not buy; mostly I would say trust your gut, because deep down you know whether or not you actually “need” that new camera, or if it’s just Gear Acquisition Syndrome, New Camera Envy, or Fear of Missing Out.
While not publishing camera and lens reviews might be seen as negative, I hope that the revised vision for Fuji X Weekly is very positive, and that the benefits of the changes far outweigh what must be left behind. I invite you to come along for the ride, and let’s see where all of this goes.
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You might very well know exactly which Film Simulation Recipes to use on your Fujifilm X-T5, but in case you are unsure, below are five that you should definitely try.
Kodachrome 64 replicates the aesthetic of the beloved Kodachrome color slide film from Kodak, which graced the covers of magazines like National Geographic and Arizona Highways. This is a great option for sunny daytime photography. Looking for a 1980’s or 1990’s vibe? Try this Recipe!
The Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe is modeled after the popular Kodak color negative film. Excellent for sunny daylight and especially golden hour photography; as the name suggests, this is good for outdoor portraits. Looking for a contemporary film aesthetic? They this one!
Produces a look similar to the Kodak Ultramax 400 color negative emulsion. Because this Recipe uses Auto White Balance, it has a lot of versatility, and is good for many different situations, including daylight, shade, overcast, indoor, and nighttime. Want a 1990’s and 2000’s look? Give this recipe a try!
Pacific Blues is modeled after Lucy Laucht‘s Spirit of Summer series, particularly the Positano Blues photographs. While it is intended for the endless sun of a summer day at the beach, it’s also good for dramatic results in a number of situations, including dreary overcast and fog. Want a contemporary analog aesthetic with nostalgic vibes? This Recipe is for you!
“The effect of one-step processing on both amateur and professional creative photography has been revolutionary.”
—Ansel Adams, Polaroid Land Camera
I woke up this morning unsure what to write about. It just so happened that I had a handful of exposures I captured yesterday evening still sitting on the SD Card in my Fujifilm X-T5. Using Fujifilm’s Cam Remote App, I transferred the pictures from the camera to my iPhone, cropped and straightened a few of them, and uploaded the images to cloud storage. It took maybe 10 minutes tops start-to-finish, and I don’t even think it was that long. One-step photography, which removes the second-step (the editing step), is truly revolutionary, just as Ansel Adams stated. Of course he was talking about instant film—something he was a big fan of—and we’re talking about straight-out-of-camera JPEGs, something that I’m a big fan of. Now I know what to write about today!
First Sign of Spring – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 35mm f/2 – “Vintage Bronze” Recipe
Why is shooting straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) JPEGs revolutionary?
First, it allows for a faster, more streamlined workflow. When you use Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes, the camera does all the post-processing work for you. You don’t have to spend hours and hours sitting in front of a computer fiddling with images. This can save you an extensive amount of time and effort, which can significantly increase your productivity, plus make photography more enjoyable. It’s not only a faster workflow, but an easier workflow. Achieving a desired aesthetic is as simple as programming the correct recipe into your camera.
Next, SOOC JPEGs allow you to be more consistent. Because the camera is applying the recipes, the photographer doesn’t have to worry about inconsistencies in their editing process. This makes achieving cohesive results for a photo series or project much easier.
Also, JPEGs are more efficient than RAW in terms of storage space. You don’t need to buy a larger SD Card or external hard drive or pay for more cloud storage nearly as quickly. Upload and download times are faster. You have a ready-to-share photo the moment that it’s captured—you don’t have to wait for a program to process it first.
Jon at the Fishin’ Pond – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 35mm f/2 – “Vintage Bronze” Recipe
Finally, SOOC JPEGs might be considered more authentic. Film Simulation Recipes often replicate the look and feel of classic film stocks and processes, and seem less digital-like in their rendering. There is a growing sentiment among photography consumers (not photographers, but those who view pictures) that “Photoshop” is bad, and picture manipulation equals people manipulation; however, unedited images don’t carry that stigma, and can come across as more authentic.
All of this and more are why there is a revolution in photography right now. More and more photographers—from first-camera beginners to experienced pros with recognizable names—are using Film Simulation Recipes and shooting SOOC JPEGs. It’s a growing trend, and I believe it will become much bigger in the coming years. I’m truly honored to be a part of it, and I’m glad that you’ve come along for the ride.
Orange & Blue – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “CineStill 400D v2”
CineStill 400D is a cinematic color negative film meant for C41 processing that’s been around for less than a year. Unlike other cinematic films, the “D” doesn’t apparently stand for “Daylight” (even though it is Daylight balanced), but “Dynamic” because it has a large latitude for push processing. I’ve had a number of requests to create a Film Simulation Recipe that mimics the aesthetic of CineStill 400D. The problem I encountered is that this emulsion has a lot more variance than most films. All films can produce different looks depending on a host of factors, including how shot, developed, and scanned, but CineStill 400D seems especially so. As I understand, this film “scans flat” and some degree of post-processing is necessary, which likely accounts for some of that variance, as each photographer will manipulate the file to their own tastes to produce a final image.
No one recipe will ever come close to replicating all of the possible aesthetics from CineStill 400D, so instead I’m publishing a series of CineStill 400D Film Simulation Recipes, each a facsimile of a different look produced by the film. This recipe—CineStill 400D v2—has less contrast and leans more red/purple than the previous version. I think it is especially well suited for “golden hour” photography, but it is also a good option for overcast, shade, and midday sun. While it is certainly usable for many genres of photography, I particularly appreciate this one for urban and street photography.
This CineStill 400D v2 recipe was a joint effort between myself and Nestor Pool (Instagram, TikTok, Facebook, YouTube). We went back-and-forth on the settings, trying to match some examples of the film. After a few attempts, we decided it was best to focus on the “right feel” for what we wanted than an exact replication of the emulsion, especially since there was so much variance. After more fine-tuning, this is the recipe we created together. Nestor recommends using a 5% Moment CineBloom filter with these settings, although I didn’t do that with these pictures because my filter doesn’t have the right thread size for the lenses I used. It was a real honor to work with Nestor Pool, and I want to give him a special “thank you” for his efforts on this!
City of Grace Tower – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “CineStill 400D”
This CineStill 400D v2 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with “newer” Fujifilm X-Trans IV cameras—X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II—and all X-Trans V models—as of this writing, X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30. Those with newer GFX models should be able to use it, too, but the rendering will be slightly different (try it anyway). Click here for CineStill 400D v1.
Film Simulation: Astia Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Fluorescent 1, -2 Red & +4 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -2 Shadow: 0 Color: +2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -4 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “CineStill 400D v2” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Hiker, Birdwatcher & Fisherman – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Faded Trail Sign – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Masonic Walker – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Waiting in Yellow – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Alleyway Bike – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Green Land Rover – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
No P – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Palms – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cross Palms – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Closed Church – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Building Blue – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Orange Reflection – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Building Within a Building – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Arrogant – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Vegan – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Haircut – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
11 – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sidewalk Dog – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Boarded Doors – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cars & Closed Church – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Urban Skateboarder – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Orpheum – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spanish Baroque Tower – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Night Beacon – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Illumination in the Dark Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “CineStill 400D v1”
CineStill 400D is a cinematic color negative film meant for C41 processing that’s been around for less than a year. Unlike other cinematic films, the “D” doesn’t apparently stand for “Daylight” (even though it is Daylight balanced), but “Dynamic” because it has a large latitude for push processing. I’ve had a number of requests to create a Film Simulation Recipe that mimics the aesthetic of CineStill 400D. The problem I encountered is that this emulsion has a lot more variance than most films. All films can produce different looks depending on a host of factors, including how shot, developed, and scanned, but CineStill 400D seems especially so. As I understand, this film “scans flat” and some degree of post-processing is necessary, which likely accounts for some of that variance, as each photographer will manipulate the file to their own tastes to produce a final image.
No one recipe will ever come close to replicating all of the possible aesthetics from CineStill 400D, so instead I will publish a series of CineStill 400D Film Simulation Recipes, each a facsimile of a different look produced by the film. This recipe—CineStill 400D v1—has more contrast and leans more green/yellow than the other versions that will follow. I think it is especially well suited for sunny daylight conditions, but it is also a good option for dreary overcast days. While it is certainly usable for many genres of photography, I particularly appreciate this one for landscapes.
This CineStill 400D v1 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with “newer” Fujifilm X-Trans IV cameras—X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II—and all X-Trans V models—as of this writing, X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30. Those with newer GFX models should be able to use it, too, but the rendering will be slightly different (try it anyway). Click here for the CineStill 400D v2 recipe.
Film Simulation: Astia Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: Fluorescent 1, -6 Red & -3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +3 Shadow: +1 Color: +2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -4 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “CineStill 400D v1” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Red Pipe – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dreary Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Raindrop on Curled Leaf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fujifilm X100V on a Wet Table – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Autumn Sidewalk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Bush – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reflection on the Floor – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dog Waste – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Stone Blooms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tree in the Cloudy Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Stop Sign – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joy – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Saguaro Storm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reflecting on Perspective – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Evening in the Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cactus Reflected – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Light & Clouds on Mountain Ridges – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset Clouds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert in Shadow & Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Last Sunlight Pouring Through a Pass – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Saguaro Fingers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dark Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cactus in Golden Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Kodak Ultramax 400 is a consumer grade ISO 400 color negative film. Kodak has sold Ultramax 400 under many different names, beginning in 1987 with Kodacolor VR-G 400, rebranded Gold 400 one year later, called simply GC at one point, and finally, in 1997, Kodak settled on Ultramax 400. Kodak still sells Ultramax 400, although it’s not the same film as Kodacolor VR-G 400. This film has been tweaked and updated at least nine times over the years; however, the overall aesthetic is still substantially similar between all variations.
Kissed by Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodak Ultramax 400”
This Kodak Ultramax 400 Film Simulation Recipe is intended for Fujifilm X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) include the X-H2, X-H2S, and X-T5 cameras. It’s compatible with newer GFX models too, but will likely render slightly different on those cameras. This recipe is highly versatile—a great option for daylight, overcast, indoor, nighttime, landscapes, portraits, etc.—really, it’s good most any type of photography.
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Highlight: +1 Shadow: +1 Color: +4 Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Ultramax 400” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Watching Firecrackers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Red, Fire & Blue – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sparkler – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dressed for the Holiday – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Mango – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Days – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rainy Day Window – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Happiness and Wondering – Gilbert, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wet Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunny Day Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lakeside Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cactus Bird – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cactus on a Hill – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rocks Among Clouds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Victory Mountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Ridge with Lifting Clouds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blue Sky Moon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dusk Sky – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
This Vintage Bronze Film Simulation Recipe was an accident. It came about when Fuji X Weekly reader Dan Allen was first trying Anders Lindborg‘s Ilford FP4 Plus 125 recipe, and he accidentally selected the Eterna Bleach Bypass film sim instead of Monochrome. The results were pretty interesting, with a vintage alternative-process aesthetic—which I happened to really like—so I decided to make it an official recipe.
The Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulation is intended to replicate the look of motion picture film that has had the bleach step reduced or skipped. With this Vintage Bronze Film Simulation Recipe, there are some similarities to that (Michael Radford’s 1984 comes to mind), but it also reminds me a little of Kodak ColorPlus film cross-processed in E6 chemistry. Obviously, it’s not modeled after any specific film or process, so any similarities are simply happy accidents. I don’t think this recipe is necessarily a close facsimile to bleach-bypassed motion picture film or cross-processed ColorPlus, and not really an exact match to anything that I have seen, but it’s in the general neighborhood of those alternative-process aesthetics. I think an argument could be made that Kodacolor that’s faded a little is also somewhat similar.
Paperflowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Vintage Bronze”
Because of the blue color rendering difference between X-Trans IV and V, this Vintage Warm Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. You can use it on those X-Trans IV cameras with Eterna Bleach Bypass, but the rendering will be slightly different (give it a try anyway). I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain.
Film Simulation: Eterna Bleach Bypass Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +6 Red & -8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: 0 Shadow: -1 Color: 0 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to 0 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Vintage Bronze” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Sunset Over White Truck – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ford Wagon – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
5 & 6 – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cart Lock – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bus – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon in December – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Johanna & Lens Flare – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Outdoor Lightbulbs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Projector – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Abstract Snow – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Christmas Song – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Winter Guitar – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
A Gift For You – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joy, Unsure – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reading the Paper in December – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sprinkled Donut – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Softdrinks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rudolph – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Many Fujifilm photographers use Film Simulation Recipes, which are JPEG camera settings that produce a specific look (often based on classic film stocks) straight-out-of-camera, no editing required. I have published over 250 Film Simulation Recipes on this website, which can also be found on the Fuji X Weekly App for easy access on the go. Using recipes on Fujifilm cameras is a great way to streamline your workflow while still getting great results that appear as though you post-processed or perhaps even shot with film.
Some advantages of using recipes on Fujifilm cameras are simplicity (quickly and easily achieve a desired aesthetic with little or no editing), authenticity (film-like quality that doesn’t appear heavily manipulated), consistency (a single recipe over a series of pictures produces a cohesive visual style), and productivity (not editing pictures saves a lot of time). Because there are so many recipes to choose from, it can be difficult to know which recipe to use when; perhaps none of them are precisely what you are looking for, or you are just feeling adventurous, so you want try your hand at crafting your very own Film Simulation Recipe.
A lot of people don’t have an interest in creating recipes; instead, they want one that’s already been perfected and matches their style. For most people, a Film Simulation Recipe currently exists that works well for them, it’s just a matter of figuring out which one (or ones, as it could be several, situationally dependent). Or maybe you enjoy trying them all! There’s no singular approach to using recipes with your Fujifilm camera.
Those who do want to try to make their very own recipe—because they haven’t found “the one” yet, or because they want a look that’s unique to them, or because they’re feeling creative and adventurous—might not know how to do it or even where to start. This article is intended to help with that. I will walk you through the process of crafting a Film Simulation Recipe, so that you know how to make your own.
Don’t Climb on the Bikes – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Emulsion ’86”
Each Film Simulation Recipe has its own origin story. Very rarely did two come about the exact same way. Most, however, begin with an aesthetic idea—what look do I want the recipe to resemble? A lot of times it’s a specific film stock, usually specific images from a certain film. One film can usually produce many different looks depending on a whole host of factors, including (but not limited to) how it was shot, developed and scanned. I study pictures to get a good sense of what the aesthetic is, so that I can recreate it as closely as possible on my Fujifilm camera. It’s never a perfect facsimile because the tools on the camera are limited, film and digital behave divergently, and one film can produce many looks; however, I surprise myself sometimes just how close one recipe can come to the aesthetic I was trying to mimic. There’s a lot of trial-and-error involved. A lot of testing. But the beginning is almost always an idea or inspiration. For the Film Simulation Recipe example in this article—Emulsion ’86—the origin was the pilot episode of Little House on the Prairie. I was really attracted to the cinematography, and wanted to recreate the look.
Once you know the aesthetic that you want to achieve, the next step is figuring out a base starting point—the Film Simulation. I decided the film simulation that most closely matched the cinematography was Nostalgic Neg., which is only found on the newest cameras, including the Fujifilm X-T5. Eterna is similar, too, but I felt not vibrant enough or warm enough in the shadows—it could also be a good starting point, and I considered using it, but opted for Nostalgic Neg. instead. Each film simulation produces a different look, so you want to find the best base film simulation for your recipe. If you want to learn more about the various film simulations, there is a video by Vistek that’s definitely worth watching (click here).
Once you have the base figured out, it’s time to fine-tune it to achieve your desired look. There are a lot of different settings, some of which are only available on the newer models. We’ll only briefly discuss each, because I don’t want to get bogged down in the details. I’ll link to an article or video for the settings, in case you need further explanations. You can find these settings in the IQ Menu subset and in Edit/Save Custom Settings. If you are unsure of how to program a Film Simulation Recipe into your Fujifilm camera, click here and here.
– Dynamic Range. Choose either DR-Auto (the camera will choose either DR100 or DR200), DR100, DR200, or DR400 (note: D-Range Priority or HDR can be used in lieu of a DR setting, and can also be considered). The Dynamic Range settings are primarily for protecting highlights, but affect the luminosity curve. DR100 protects highlights from clipping the least, while DR400 protects the highlights from clipping the most; however, DR400 requires a higher ISO and produces a lower-contrast image. Click here, here, here, here, and here to learn more. For my recipe, I wanted to protect highlights the most because I planned to expose the image more, so I chose DR400. – Grain. Only X-Trans III and newer cameras have a faux Grain option (Off, Weak, or Strong), and only the X-Pro3 and newer have the option for Grain Size (Small or Large). The Acros film simulation is the only one with built-in grain (the faux Grain options can be used in addition to the built-in Acros grain). High-ISO digital noise on Fujifilm cameras can produce a film-grain-like effect, too, and is something else to be considered. Click here, here, here, and here to learn more. For this recipe, I decided I like Grain set to Strong/Small after testing a couple options. – Color Chrome Effect and Color Chrome FX Blue. These settings deepen the tonality of certain colors (renders them darker) so that they retain more details when they are especially vibrant. For each, the options are Off, Weak, or Strong. For more information, click here, here, and here. I chose Color Chrome Effect set to Strong (for darker reds) and Color Chrome FX Blue set to Off (for lighter blues).
Pink Blossom Bush – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Emulsion ’86”
– White Balance and Shift. This is an important tool for altering the aesthetic of the base film simulation. First, it’s important to understand that most color films were either Daylight balanced (around 5500K) or Tungsten balanced (around 3200K), so if you want to mimic film, choosing a similar white balance is a good option. You can significantly manipulate the cast using white balance and shift together. Unfortunately, cameras older than the X-Pro3 cannot save a WB Shift within C1-C7 Custom Settings Presets. Click here, here, and here to learn more. After much experimenting, I landed on Daylight White Balance with a Shift of +2 Red & -1 Blue. – Highlight and Shadow. This is found within Tone Curve on newer cameras. Highlight and Shadow is what adjusts the luminosity curve. -2 is the least (least highlight, least shadows), and +4 (or +2 on older models) is the most (strongest highlights, deepest shadows). This also highly affects contrast. To learn more, click here and here. I set Highlight to -2 to soften them and protect them from clipping, and I set Shadow to +2 to deepen shadows and increase contrast. – Color. This sets the vibrancy, from -4 (least vibrant) to +4 (most vibrant). For more information, click here. I wanted more highly saturated colors, so I went with +4. – Sharpness and Noise Reduction. Choose between -4 and +4 (-2 and +2 on older models). On newer cameras, Noise Reduction is renamed High ISO NR, but it’s the same thing. I typically (but not always) stay within -2 and +2 Sharpness (-1 and +1 on older models). I feel that Fujifilm’s Noise Reduction is too strong, so I like to use a minus setting. Click here, here, and here to learn more. I set Sharpness to -2 and Noise Reduction to -4 for this new recipe. – Clarity. This is a micro-contrast adjustment, either more (+1 to +5) or less (-1 to -5), with 0 being Off. Using a minus Clarity setting is similar to using a diffusion filter. Clarity does slow down the camera, as there is a “Storing” pause after each exposure, and continuous shooting modes (CL and CH) disable this setting. Only the X-Pro3 and newer models have Clarity. Click here and here for more information. I wanted a softer look, so I set Clarity to -3.
There are two other important parts of a recipe. First, you have to decide the maximum (and maybe minimum) ISO. I like to use Auto-ISO the majority of the time. For color photography, I feel most Fujifilm cameras do well up to ISO 6400, but that’s just my personal tolerance. You might want to top it out at ISO 3200 or ISO 12800, or whatever you prefer. To learn more, click here, here, and here. For this recipe I set Auto-ISO to be up to ISO 6400. Finally, you have to decide how much Exposure Compensation you typically want. Do you want brighter or darker results? This works hand-in-hand with the luminosity curve you’ve created with DR, Highlight, and Shadow. A word of caution is that each exposure should be judged individually, and typical exposure compensation is merely a starting point, and not a rule. Click here and here to learn more. For my recipe, I wanted a brighter picture, so I usually increase the exposure over what the meter says, typically by +2/3 to +1-1/3 stop.
The very last step is to give your new Film Simulation Recipe a name. Even though the pilot episode of Little House on the Prairie was the initial inspiration for my recipe, after visiting Balboa Park in San Diego, I had a change of perspective. You see, Balboa Park has hosted two different World Expositions (in 1915 and 1935)—remnants of which are still prominent to this day—which reminded me of my own World’s Fair experience: when I was six years old, my family and I went to Expo ’86 in Vancouver, Canada. I found many old pictures of that event—personal, in books, and online—and this recipe was highly reminiscent of some of those photographs. This Film Simulation Recipe produces a nostalgic analog aesthetic that is similar to some pictures from the mid-1980’s (presumably primarily Kodak emulsions, but I’m not certain), so I named it Emulsion ’86.
If you like your recipe creation, consider sharing it with the Fujifilm community so that others can use it, too. If you don’t have a place to share it, the Fuji X Weekly Community Recipes page is for you!
Old California Architecture – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Emulsion ’86”
This Emulsion ’86 Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. This recipe does well for both sunny daylight and rainy overcast photography.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +2 Red & -1 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: +2 Color: +4 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1-1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Emulsion ’86” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Bobcat on the Beach – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Emulsion ’86”
Rainy Day at the Beach – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Emulsion ’86”
No Lifeguard on Duty – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Emulsion ’86”
Two Surfers Walking – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Emulsion ’86”
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
The story doesn’t end there. Recently, Fuji X Weekly reader Dan Allen wanted to help create an Ilford FP4 Plus 125 recipe, and he purchased some rolls of the film to shoot side-by-side with his Fujifilm camera. When he told me this, I sent him Anders’ recipe to try. After he did his experiment, Dan shared with me the results, which were quite fascinating. It turns out that Dan’s Ilford frames and his Fujifilm digital pictures (using Anders’ recipe) looked similar, but the Ilford frames had less contrast, with softer highlights and shadows, so I made a few small modifications to Anders’ recipe to better match Dan’s pictures. Of course, one film can have many different looks, depending on how it was shot, developed, printed, and/or scanned. “This particular film stock,” Anders told me, “is highly tunable, ranging from super clean to ultra gritty.” No single recipe will ever recreate every possible aesthetic from the film.
“Just like the real thing,” Anders explained to me, “a slight underexposure protects the highlights and improves contrast. Centered around the upper half of the grayscale, this recipe ranges from soft and dreamy to sharp and almost graphic with pencil-like lines. It will almost never go entirely black and is great for shadow details.” Ilford originally introduced FP4 Plus 125 way back in 1968, and in 2014 they improved the emulsion, which is what’s currently available.
Bougainvillea Grey – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Ilford FP4 Plus 125”
If you want to use Anders Lindborg’s recipe as he created it, set Dynamic Range to DR100, Highlight to 0, and Shadow to -1. He says that you can “really go crazy” with Clarity and Grain—try Clarity anywhere from -2 to +4, with Grain Weak/Small when using less Clarity (for a cleaner look) and Grain Strong/Large when using more Clarity (for a grittier look). Also, feel free to use the different faux filter options (+Ye, +R, +G) with this recipe.
The Ilford FP4 Plus 125 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S, and newer X-Trans IV cameras: X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. If you have an X100V or X-Pro3, you can use Anders’ unmodified version (explained above); for the X-T3, X-T30, plus X-Trans III, additionally ignore Clarity and Grain size. This recipe is especially well suited for mid-to-high contrast scenes, paying careful attention to the highlights so as to not clip them.
Film Simulation: Monochrome Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +6 Red & -8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: -1.5 Monochromatic Color: 0 WC & 0 MG Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1 to -1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Ilford FP4 Plus 125” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Projector Light – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fog Lights – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Disco Ball – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Christmas Concert – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Light Lines – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Shade Pull – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Window Light on a Small Rug – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Call it a Fuji X Weekly Holiday – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Christmas Gift – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Legos for Christmas – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Was a Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Backlit Petunia – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dark Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lizard on a Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Block Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gate – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joy – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Waiting by the Pool – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Butcher – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tamale TV – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Reading the Morning Paper – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Coffee Sugar – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hydrant Top – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Geometric – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Rooftop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
This recipe began as an attempt to mimic my “Nostalgic Negative” Film Simulation Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras using the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation instead of Classic Chrome. I made that recipe before any camera with Nostalgic Neg. had even been released, when there weren’t very many samples available, and little information had been given about it. I observed “something along the lines of Eterna gradation, [with] the Classic Chrome color palette (however, with a warm shift)….” I also stated that it would “likely turn out to be an inaccurate facsimile to the real Nostalgic Negative film simulation….” Turns out that I was right about both.
I set out to see how close I could get to that X-Trans IV Nostalgic Negative recipe using Nostalgic Neg, on my X-T5. I was hoping that I could get a close match, but unfortunately I was only able to get it to be about 90% similar. Even though it wasn’t an exact match, I still liked the aesthetic. From there I gave it a couple of small tweaks to make it look better (but less like the X-Trans IV recipe), and that’s how this Kodak Negative recipe came to be.
To my eyes, without digging too deeply into samples (just “memory color”), this recipe is reminiscent of Kodak Ektar 100. Maybe +4 Color isn’t quite high enough to mimic Ektar film, but there are definitely some similarities between this recipe and the film. I didn’t set out to recreate Ektar, so I’m not worried that it’s not an exact match. There’s certainly a vibrant Kodak color negative film vibe to this recipe; if not Ektar, then maybe Royal Gold 100 or Gold 100 or something along those lines.
Looking Through the Stone – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodak Negative”
This Kodak Negative Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. This Kodak Negative recipe is especially well-suited for golden hour photography, but can also be used during most other light situations.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -4 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: +2.5 Color: +4 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Church Dome – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water & Reflection – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lake Lamp – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pond at Last Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Disappearing Desert Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Approaching Dusk at Pond – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pond Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Palm Tree Moon – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Media Center – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Triangle – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Leaves – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tree Top Clouds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lakeside Townhomes – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Soft Shrub – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Three Oranges – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Me Photographing Me – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Observing the Lake for Fish – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Worn Wood – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pier Leg – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lantana – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Yesterday I stated that I don’t like the inconsistent results from the new AI Auto White Balance found on the Fujifilm X-T5 and the other X-Trans V cameras. This isn’t a problem for most people, I don’t think; however, if you are a wedding or event photographer (or someone who needs consistent rendering over a series of pictures), if you use Film Simulation Recipes and rely on the out-of-camera JPEGs, and if you commonly use Auto White Balance, this is an issue you are likely to encounter, and you will surely be frustrated by it.
For those who are looking for a workaround to this problem, I want to offer you five potential solutions that might be helpful. None are perfect, so I hope that Fujifilm addresses this with a firmware update in the near future, but in the meantime perhaps one of these will be at least ok for you.
1. Use a Film Simulation Recipe that doesn’t use AWB yet matches the lighting conditions. For example, if you will be photographing indoors under artificial light, instead of using AWB, try Serr’s 500T (which uses a specific Kelvin temperature) or CineStill 800T (which uses Fluorescent 3). While AWB recipes are easy to like because of their versatility (Jack-of-all-trades), Auto White Balance won’t always deliver the best results. You’ll have to figure which recipe might be most appropriate for whatever it is that you are photographing, and there could only be one or two that will really work well; however, if you can match the recipe with the scene and situation, that’s when you’ll get the best outcome.
2. Use Custom White Balance. Instead of using Auto White Balance, take a custom white balance measurement in each lighting condition that you encounter. Your camera has three Custom White Balance banks, so you can take a measurement in up to three different situations at the beginning, and just switch between the three banks as you move throughout the event. For example, Custom 1 could be for outdoors, Custom 2 could be for the reception, and Custom 3 could be for the dressing room. If the light changes significantly due to (for example) the sun’s position in the sky or cloud coverage, you might have to remeasure at various times. You’ll have to remember to switch to the appropriate Custom White Balance bank as the light situation changes.
3. Use Auto White Balance Lock (AWB-L). This feature allows you to lock onto a specific white balance for as long as you keep it locked. To do this, first, while in the Shooting Mode (not Playback), press and hold the Disp/Back button until the Bluetooth & Function (Fn) Setting Menu appears. Pick an Fn button (whichever one you like, as long as it isn’t a touchscreen gesture) to customize, and set it to AWB-L. Next, open the Wrench Menu subset, click Button/Dial Setting, select AWB-Lock Mode, and set it to AWB On/Off Switch. Now, when you think AWB is producing a good white balance for the situation, simply press the Fn button you chose to enable AWB-L, and the camera will keep that white balance until you press the button again to disable it. Don’t forget to disable AWB-L when you encounter different lighting.
4. Program the same Film Simulation Recipe into several C1-C7 Custom Presets, but (for example) set the white balance to Daylight (for outdoors) on one, maybe Fluorescent 3 (for indoors) on another, and some other white balance (for another light you expect to encounter) on another. Definitely check the results at the very beginning to make sure it all looks good (and adjust if necessary) before photographing the whole event this way. You’ll have to remember to change to the correct C1-C7 preset as the light situation changes.
5. Take your chances with AWB. If you shoot RAW+JPEG, even if you have no intentions of editing the RAW files, you can reprocess the pictures in-camera or with X RAW Studio if, by chance, a crucial exposure has a weird color cast. You can simply adjust the white balance to be closer to the others, or apply a B&W recipe (such as Kodak Tri-X 400) and call it being creative.
Fujifilm used “deep-learning AI Technology” to improve Auto White Balance on the X-T5 (or, more accurately, on X-Trans V cameras—not just the X-T5). According to the promotional statement, the camera is able to more accurately identify warm tints, and adjust to compensate for that when using Auto White Balance. Sounds impressive, right?
When I first learned about this, I was a little concerned that the new Auto White Balance would affect Film Simulation Recipes that use AWB. So I took a few test shots with the X-T5 and an X-Trans IV model side-by-side to compare, and I didn’t notice any difference between the two regarding white balance. It looked the same to me. But now that I’ve used the X-T5 a little longer, I do, in fact, at times notice something that I initially overlooked.
In the banner above, which comes from Fujifilm’s promo materiel for the X-T5 (even though the X-H2 has this same feature, it wasn’t promoted with that camera), you can see the “conventional model” vs the X-T5 AWB rendering in identical light. I assume that the so-called conventional model wasn’t a Sony or Canon, but an X-T4 (or other X-Trans IV camera). I personally prefer the more golden rendering of the “conventional” AWB to the copper rendering of the AI AWB, but each has their own tastes, so there’s no right or wrong answer. Perhaps you prefer the image on the right over the one on the left. It’s definitely subjective.
Something I have noticed—and I don’t like—is that this new rendering is inconsistent. From one exposure to the next, with identical lighting and identical settings, you can get something more like the “conventional model” rendering or something more like the AI AWB rendering. I’ve noticed it in artificial light, and I’ve noticed it in golden-hour/sunset situations. Two exposures, one right after the other—nothing’s changed—but the camera produces two very different tints when using AWB. Take a look at the two pictures below for an example of this. They were captured under identical light with identical settings, but they clearly aren’t identical. This was in a set of 32 pictures (of my son opening birthday gifts); 19 had the golden-ish cast and 13 had the copper-ish cast (these are frames nine and ten, for those wondering).
Obviously if you are a wedding or event photographer, and you rely on Auto White Balance, this could be a big issue for you, because you want consistent results. You don’t want the white balance to be bouncing back-and-forth between two tints. I don’t even want it for my son’s birthday pictures! If the camera chose one rendering in the situation, and consistently applied that to each image, whether gold or copper or something else entirely, that’s fine—it’s what is expected to happen—but bouncing between renderings is bad and should not happen. If you can’t trust AWB, and if it’s a tool that you commonly use, the X-T5 (or any of the X-Trans V models) might not be the camera for you.
Of course, for many people this might not be an issue whatsoever. Maybe you don’t even use AWB. Perhaps you do but you don’t care if the results are different between exposures. It could be that you’re going to adjust white balance in software later anyway, so what the camera records makes no difference to you. If that’s you, and none of this matters to you, great! But I do want to point it out for those who it might matter for, because they should know. It’s better to find out now before dropping so much money on something that’s just going to frustrate you.
I imagine that this is something Fujifilm could fix fairly easily via a firmware update. A simple tweak to the code could possibly make this behavior happen much less frequently. Fujifilm should address this issue. I hope in a few months from now this will all be a past problem that was fixed and forgotten. Or it could be the expected behavior that all Fujifilm X-Trans V cameras will have, and it will only be fixed by an even more improved AI-AWB on X-Trans VI models. Time will tell.
Swath of Red – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodak Portra 400 v2”
This is a simple update to the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Film Simulation Recipe, which was originally made for X-Trans IV cameras. I discovered that a slight tweak is needed for X-Trans V models, because the new sensor renders blues just a little deeper on some film simulations, including Classic Chrome. For this recipe, simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue from Weak to Off makes it compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S.
Kodak Portra 400 is a popular professional-grade color negative film introduced in 1998. There’s been a number of revisions and improvements to the emulsion over the years, so the Portra that’s available today is slightly different than the original Portra from roughly 25 years ago. As the name suggests, it’s intended for portraitures, but is also a popular option for many other genres of photography. One film can have several different aesthetics depending on many factors, and this particular Film Simulation Recipe is modeled after the Kodak Portra 400 pictures from a specific photographer. It’s one of my absolute favorite recipes for daylight and especially golden hour photography, and it does pretty well in several other light conditions; however, it’s probably not the best option for indoor artificial light, unless you want especially warm pictures.
This Kodak Portra 400 v2 Film Simulation Recipe is intended for Fujifilm X-Trans V models. It’s compatible with newer GFX cameras too, but will likely render slightly different. If you have an X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II, try the Kodak Portra 400 v2 recipe for those models (click here). If you have an X-T3 or X-T30, try the version for those cameras (click here).
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5200K, +1 Red & -6 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: 0 Shadow: -2 Color: +2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Portra 400 v2” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Christmas Angel – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Nativity – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Happy Holidays – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lemons – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Changing Seasons – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Leaves on the Concrete – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
GCR – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lighted Cupola – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sisters – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Brothers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
December Fog – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Multi-Arm Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Saguaro Mist – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wall Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Super Star – Glendale. AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
I Believe – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Standing in the Sun – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Untidy Palm – Palo Verde, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Misty Desert Hills – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
It Was All Yellow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Small Pop of Color – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Clouds & Brown Trees – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Neighborhood – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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The Fujifilm X-T5 is better—at least slightly—than the X-T4 in a many ways, but not every way. Perhaps you have an X-T4 and are considering upgrading to the latest iteration, or maybe you cannot decide between the X-T4 or X-T5—this article will point out some reasons why you might consider the X-T4 over the new model. Don’t get me wrong, I’m not saying that the X-T4 is better, only that in some ways it is indeed better; however, overall, the X-T5 is, in my opinion, the superior camera, but only by a small margin (I’ll have a full review of the new camera soon, so keep an eye out for that). Below are five ways the Fujifilm X-T4 is actually better than the X-T5.
1. Heat Dispersion
There are a few true workhorses in the Fujifilm lineup. These cameras just go and go and go. They’re eager to work and don’t need a break. The X-H1 is probably the best. The X-T4 is not far behind.
I don’t usually have heat issues with Fujifilm cameras in my day-to-day photography, but when I do the monthly SOOC broadcast, I need a camera that will run 4K video for several hours. My X-H1 will do it. The X-T4 will do it, too. But, I found out that the X-T5 will only last for about 45 minutes before overheating. Interestingly enough, I accidentally forgot to turn off the X-T4, and it kept running for 24 hours straight, no overheating! Before you scoff, the camera was plugged into the wall with a faux battery power cord and it was tethered to my computer, so it is, in fact, possible for the camera to run 4K for hours and hours and hours, just so long as it doesn’t power down due to overheating.
After I discovered the X-T4 had been inadvertently running for a whole day, I powered it off and let it rest for 15 minutes, then I used it for a three-and-a-half hour broadcast. It worked like a champ! The X-T5 overheats much too quickly to even be considered for this use. If you will be video broadcasting or recording long clips, the X-T4 is the clear winner. The almost-five-year-old X-H1 is better than the X-T5 in this regard, too. I’m not surprised, because Fujifilm stuffed a high-resolution sensor and quick processor into a small body, and the consequence of that is heat, and there’s just not enough heat dispersion. For most people, this is no big deal at all, but for those videographers who need to record extended-length clips, the X-T5 should be avoided, and the X-T4 is a much better option.
2. Rear Screen
I like the X-T5’s three-way tilt screen better than the flippy screen on the X-T4, but not everyone agrees with me on that. For some, the X-T4’s screen is superior. You can do a lot more with it, and being able to see yourself while recording video of yourself is big plus for some. Personally, what I like best about the X-T4’s screen is that you can close it backwards, and it is sort of like shooting with an X-Pro3 (kinda, but not really)—no other X-T series camera can do that, only the X-T4. You might actually prefer the X-T4’s rear screen over the X-T5. Different strokes for different folks, right?
3. Vertical Battery Grip
I’ve never used a vertical battery grip on any camera ever, but some do use it, either for the extra battery power, the extra grip, or both. Every single camera in this series—including the X-T1—has had an optional vertical battery grip accessory for those who want one, except for the X-T5. In this way, the X-T5 is more like the X-T00 series, and it cheapens the line (not in cost, but in perceived quality). Most people don’t use the vertical battery grip, so for the majority this is no big deal whatsoever, but for some this is a dealbreaker.
4. Body Size
A lot of people (myself included) have applauded the smaller size of the X-T5, but some prefer the bigger X-T4 body. Those with big hands might prefer the grip on the X-T4, and those who frequently shoot with large, heavy lenses might prefer using them attached to the bulkier frame. For me, just doing some testing in preparation for the upcoming X-T5 review, the larger X-T4 body felt better when using the Fujinon 100-400mm lens than the smaller X-T5, but that was simply my experience and my preference. I would suggest that the shooting experience of the X-T4 might be slightly superior if you do use large lenses a lot, but it is a personal preference.
5. Resolution
More is more, right? 40 is better than 26, right? If you crop deeply, print poster, or enjoy pixel-peeping, the higher resolution sensor of the X-T5 is probably for you. Otherwise, the X-T4 has more resolution than most people typically use or need. The disadvantage of more resolution is that it takes up more digital storage space (on your SD cards, phone, computer, external hard drive, and cloud storage), and it can take longer to process or upload files—an extra second here and there doesn’t seem like much, but if you add it up over ten thousand pictures (the course of a year for me), you’re talking about hours that the higher resolution sensor cost you. Sometimes less is more. Personally, I prefer the 26-megapixel resolution of the X-T4 over the X-T5’s 40-megapixels; some of you might even prefer the X-T1’s 16-megapixels.
But, but, but… the X-T5 has the new super-quick autofocus, that finally brings it up to par with Canikony! That alone makes it worthwhile, right? Outside of dim-light situations, I found the X-T1’s eight-year-old autofocus to be plenty quick for me, including for sports and wildlife photography. The X-T4’s autofocus, which is even better, is more than good enough for almost everyone.
It’s not the gear that’s incapable. People have been capturing amazing photographs for 150+ years, and whether for stills or motion pictures, the focus capability of the gear has never stood in the way. People have done so much more with so much less for so many decades. If you looked at photography forums and such lately, you’d wonder how anyone ever managed to capture an in-focus picture prior to the Sony A7 III. We must have imagined it all, because it’s just not possible without the quickest autofocus—and if you don’t have the quickest, you got nothing. That’s how it seems. The focus inability of camera gear is a very recent phenomena. With that said, if a camera offers a tool that makes photography a little easier for you, that’s a good thing. Certainly autofocus in general, and the gradual improvements in autofocus capabilities over the years, have opened up photography for people who don’t have the skill or experience or desire to get the shot otherwise—that’s not a dig, by the way, as I believe opening up photography to those who the door would otherwise be closed to is important. Film Simulation Recipes do that for those who don’t have the skill, time, desire, or access to computer/software to edit RAW files—for me, that’s time and desire; for you, it might be something else—and it has become an important tool for the visually impaired. So, yeah—bravo to better autofocus! But, if you do find the focus capabilities lacking on whatever gear you are using, know that you do have it within you to overcome that issue, and it doesn’t involve buying new gear.
Back to the cameras in question…. In AF-S, I didn’t hardly notice any difference between the X-T4 and the X-T5 (or even the X-T1 and X-T5 in normal light). I think the visual confirmation of focus is a hair quicker, but the actual focus isn’t (I hope that makes sense). The X-T5 recognizes faces a little further away, if that matters. In AF-C, I do think the X-T5 is just a tad better at finding and correctly focusing on the intended subject, but it’s not a night-and-day difference, only a small improvement (but an improvement nonetheless). Where I believe the X-T5 is indeed superior to the X-T4 with regard to autofocus is continuous subject-tracking. The X-T5 can recognize more various subjects to track (not just human face/eye), and does a better job of tracking. So if you do use continuous subject-tracking autofocus, you’ll find the X-T5 to be better than the X-T4; if you don’t, you’ll find the X-T5’s autofocus to be only marginally improved.
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Right Around the Bend – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodak Vericolor Warm”
I wasn’t sure if I should publish this Film Simulation Recipe, but then I thought, why not? Initially, the intention was simply to see how the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation looks with Dynamic Range set to DR100, and how the X-T5 images look at ISO 125, which is the base-ISO of X-Trans V cameras. I didn’t model these settings after any specific film aesthetic; instead, I borrowed the GAF 500 Film Simulation Recipe‘s white balance (modified just a little after a couple test shots), and was also inspired by Kodak Portra 400 and Reggie’s Portra recipes. I wasn’t sure what to expect from this, but I ended up really liking it!
So what does this Film Simulation Recipe most closely resemble? Unintentionally, I think it has some similarities to Kodak Vericolor film. What’s Kodak Vericolor? Originally introduced in 1971 as an ISO 100 professional color negative film, Kodak made two version of Vericolor: NPS (also known as S-Type) for short exposures (Daylight balanced) and NPL (also known as L-Type) for long exposures (Tungsten balanced). Just a few years later Kodak improved the emulsions and in 1974 introduced Vericolor II NPS and NPL, which was also ISO 100. In 1983 Kodak improved the emulsion once again and introduced Vericolor III, which was ISO 160 for NPS and ISO 100 for NPL; however, the NPL version was later spun off as Ektacolor Pro Gold 100T and later Portra 100T, while Vericolor III NPS was renamed Vericolor III 160. Later (sometime in the late-1980’s, although I couldn’t pinpoint a specific year), Kodak introduced a new high-ISO version called Vericolor III 400. Vericolor III 160 and 400 were replaced by Portra 160 and 400 in 1998. This recipe by chance shares a resemblance to Vericolor III 160 or perhaps Vericolor II NPS, but I think it is more warm, and perhaps more like if an 81A Color Correction Filter was used in conjunction with the film, a common technique in the film era, and maybe a CPL filter, too.
This Kodak Vericolor Warm Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. Unless Fujifilm gives X-Trans IV cameras the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, which I doubt they will do, this recipe is only for X-Trans V cameras, and maybe the latest GFX, too; however, consider the Kodak Portra 160, Kodak Portra 400, and Reggie’s Portra as alternatives for those with X-Trans IV models. This Kodak Vericolor Warm recipe is especially well-suited for daylight photography, but can also be used during “blue hour” and overcast situations.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 3000K, +8 Red & -9 Blue Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: -2 Shadow: -1 Color: +2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Vericolor Warm” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Blue Sky Bougainvillea Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rose in the Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Triple Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water Pipe – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Trioliet – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tired Old Bus – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Four Lights – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tractor Pipe – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cattle Co – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Industrial Water – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tree on the Bank – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fujifilm Photographer – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Roadside Memorial – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Feed Barn – Palo Verde, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Metal Garage – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rust & Lock – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ome – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
No Loitering on Bridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Love the Bridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Goat Man – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
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Red & Green Bush – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Superia Xtra 400”
This is a simple update to the Superia Xtra 400 Film Simulation Recipe, which was originally made for X-Trans IV cameras. I discovered that a slight tweak is needed for X-Trans V models, because the new sensor renders blues just a little deeper on some film simulations, including Classic Negative. For this recipe, simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue from Strong to Weak makes it compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S.
Thomas Schwab created the Superia Xtra 400 recipe by capturing a roll of actual Superia Xtra 400 film while also capturing identical exposures with his Fujifilm cameras, then, using X RAW Studio, he worked on the settings until he found a match. As you can imagine, he put a lot of time and effort into creating it! He shared with me some of his side-by-side pictures—comparing the film with his recipe—and it was tough to figure out which was which—they looked so close! Also, just recently another photographer shot a roll of Superia Xtra 400 film and used the Superia Xtra 400 recipe on his Fujifilm camera, and he shared with me the similar results he got between the two. Amazing! Of course, with film, so much depends on how it’s shot, developed, and scanned or printed, and the aesthetic of one emulsion can vary significantly.
Fujifilm introduced Superia Xtra 400, a consumer-grade color negative film, in 1998, replacing Super G Plus 400. This film has been updated a couple of times, first in 2003 and again in 2006. It’s been widely used, thanks to its low cost and versatility. I’ve shot several rolls of this film over the years. This recipe is for Fujifilm X-Trans V cameras. Those with newer GFX models can use it, too, although it will likely render slightly differently.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto, +3 Red & -5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: 0 Shadow: -1 Color: +4 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Superia Xtra 400” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Forwards or Backwards – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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