Possible New Film Simulation For Fujifilm X100F in 2018: Eterna

According to Fujirumors.com, Fujifilm is releasing a new camera next year called X-H1. It’s basically an X-T2, but designed with video in mind. It will be the first Fujifilm X camera made specifically for videographers. Apparently Fujifilm will include a brand new film simulation with the X-H1 called Eterna.

Eterna is the name of Fujifilm’s defunct line of 16mm and 35mm motion picture film, discontinued in 2012, although apparently it could still be found in significant quantities up until a couple years ago. Lomography (and others) have at times sold (in very limited runs) 35mm Eterna film modified for still pictures.

Some movies filmed using Fujifilm Eterna (in no particular order) are The Avengers, American Hustle, The Hunger Games, J. Edgar, Captain Phillips, 3:10 To Yuma, Inglorious Basterds, The Hurt Locker, Slumdog Millionaire, The Awakening, A Good Day To Die Hard, Harry Potter And The Sorcerer’s Stone, Harry Potter And The Chamber of Secrets, Harry Potter And The Goblet of Fire, and many more. You might be surprised to learn that some blockbuster movies are shot on actual film, even in 2017; however, not enough (apparently) for Fujifilm to produce motion picture film anymore.

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It’s hard to say how accurate the Eterna Film Simulation will be compared to actual Eterna film. Sometimes Fujifilm’s film simulations are more about a “look” than being technically spot-on. I personally welcome any new film simulations, even if it’s intended more for video than still pictures. The last two from Fujifilm, Classic Chrome and Acros, are both excellent.

The X-H1 will have the same sensor and processor as the X-T2 and the X100F (and some other cameras), and so it’s possible that Fujifilm will offer a firmware update for the X100F in 2018 that includes the Eterna Film Simulation. I definitely won’t say that they will do this, but simply that they might. It’s not unprecedented, as Classic Chrome was introduced on the X100T, and they made that Film Simulation available for the X-T1 and X-E2 through firmware updates.

I will keep my fingers crossed that the X100F will someday have the Eterna Film Simulation, but I’m not going to hold my breath. Chances are that the X100V (or whatever Fujifilm decides to call the next X100 camera) will have it and the X100F won’t. It will be a “reason to upgrade” I suppose.

Speaking of firmware updates, according to Fujirumors, expect an update for the X100F to be released later this month. Don’t expect anything jaw-dropping to be included, but it is good to keep everything updated.

Road Trip: Seattle With A Fujifilm X100F – Part 2, Whidbey Island (Day 3)

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Deception Pass Beach – Whidbey Island, WA – Fuji X100F

Part 1

For our first full day in the Seattle area we drove to Mukilteo and floated on a ferry over to Whidbey Island. This was my family’s first ferry experience, and my eight-year-old son was especially excited. We enjoyed a smooth, quick ride across the Puget Sound. Soon we were on the island.

When I was a kid I lived in a small three-bedroom home near Oak Harbor on Whidbey Island for over five years, which is the longest I’ve ever lived in one place. I made a lot of great memories there. Right away my mind began recalling things left and right. I was able to point out different places that were significant to me and bring life to many of the stories I’ve told.

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Puget Sound Ferry – Mukilteo, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Ferry Watching – Mukilteo, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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On The Observation Deck – Mukilteo, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Watching The Water – Mukilteo, WA – Fujifilm X100F

Our first stop on the island was Fort Casey State Park. This was one of my absolute favorite places when I was a kid. I loved climbing all over the old military fort. The dark tunnels seemed endless, and it was always a surprise where exactly you’d pop out into the daylight. It’s a creepy and vast playground that’s seemingly made for boys. Plus it offers great ocean views.

My family loved it! My wife was a little reluctant at first, but as we explored more and more she had a change of heart, and it ended up being one of the highlights of the trip for her. The kids still haven’t stopped talking about it.

It was a fun place to photograph. I used to do a lot of abandonment/urban exploration type photography, and this was similar to that (except without the trespassing and much less dangerous). I like that genre of photography (although I rarely do “urbex” pictures anymore), and Fort Casey allowed me to include my family in an abandonment adventure that even young kids could enjoy.

We stayed awhile, touring a large area of the park, yet still left plenty unseen. All too soon it was time to go. After all, it was lunchtime and we were getting hungry.

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Fort Casey – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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William Worth – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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The Big Gun – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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No. 26 – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Web of Deterioration – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Wall Ring – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Girl At Fort Casey – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Ladder Climb – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Pinnacle – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Rusted Pulley – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Dark & Forgotten – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Into The Unknown – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Concrete Steps – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Fort Casey Canopy – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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On Top of Fort Casey – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Every Which Way – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Distant Ship – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Wind Swept – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Returning – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

Next stop, Coupeville. This quaint island town sits right on Penn Cove. The small downtown is full of historic buildings from the 1800’s and early 1900’s. Coupeville is one of Washington’s oldest settlements (some claim it is the second oldest town in the state, although apparently it depends on how one defines “town”). It’s a quintessential Pacific Northwest coastal community, and a must-stop on the island.

We only stayed long enough to eat lunch. We noticed that the town has a lot of cats (a fact noticed by my eight-year-old son who loves cats). It seemed like a place we could have spent some time, looking through the different shops and such, but we had more on the agenda. We wanted to save some daylight for Oak Harbor, the town on Whidbey Island that I used to live near.

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Downtown Coupeville – Coupeville, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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White Fence – Coupeville, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Kneed & Feed Cafe – Coupeville, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Whidbey Coffee – Oak Harbor, WA – Fujifilm X100F

As we approached the town of Oak Harbor on Highway 20, many buildings and landmarks became familiar. Some things had obviously changed in the decades that had passed since I was last on the island, but plenty had not. A lot of memories flooded my mind.

After a pit stop and a quick tour of downtown, we found the little yellow house where I lived for several years as a child. We drove around the neighborhood. I pointed out where different stories took place that I’d told my family. We got out of the car and walked down a path that I used to traverse, finding some blackberries that were surprisingly still ripe.

I never had a hometown growing up because we moved all of the time. When people would ask, “Where’s home?” I never had a good answer. Oak Harbor is the closest place to that “home” that I ever experienced, but I hadn’t seen it in over 25 years. I cannot tell you how good it was to go back. My family appreciated this journey, as well.

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The Motorcross – Oak Harbor, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Don’t Go Down That Road – Oak Harbor, WA – Fujifilm X100F

The final stop on our Whidbey Island tour was Deception Pass State Park. This is such a beautiful spot on the island! We walked the rocky beach. The kids looked for seashells and sea life, and found two dead crabs. They chased the waves in and out. We breathed in the salty and moist ocean air. We had a great time! We were reminded just how much we love the coast.

The sun was getting low. Soon the short November daylight would be gone. We got back in the car and crossed the well-photographed Deception Pass Bridge. I wished that we could have visited longer, but the time we did have was wonderful. I suppose it means that we’ll have to come back.

I used my Fujifilm X100F to capture all of these photographs, which are camera-made JPEGs using my Acros Push-Process Film Simulation recipe and my Velvia Film Simulation recipe. I brought two batteries but only used one. I left the wide-angle conversion lens at the hotel.

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Birds On A Rock – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Deception Pass Beach – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Deception Pass – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Big & Small Islands – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Running To The Water – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Boys At The Beach – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Kids Playing On The Shore – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Towards The Waves – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Away From The Waves – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Pacific Coast Selfie – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Mother & Daughter At The Beach – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Crabby Joy – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Deception Pass Bridge – Whidbey Island, WA – Fujifilm X100F

Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6

Road Trip: Seattle With A Fujifilm X100F – Part 1, Getting There (Day 1 & 2)

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Starbucks Coffee – Riverdale, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Just before the Thanksgiving holiday I had the opportunity to take a good ol’ American family road trip from Salt Lake City, Utah, to Seattle, Washington. The drive time to get there is 12 hours from my house, and since my wife and I have four young kids we decided to break it up into two days. We began our trip with a quick stop at Starbucks for coffee, which seemed like an appropriate thing to do considering our destination.

My dad was in the Navy, and as a kid I moved frequently. Perhaps this is why I have also moved around from place to place as an adult, living in Arizona, Texas, California and now Utah. The Puget Sound area of Washington was my home a few different times as a child, and I was 12-years-old the last time that I lived there.

I was eager to see the region again and to show my family where I spent time as a kid. The longest I ever lived in one house (as a child or adult) was there, and I wanted to see what had changed and what was still the same. I felt like it would be therapeutic in a way to return. This was going to be a good trip.

On the first day we made the long drive to Richland, Washington. This was supposed to be eight hours on the road, but it took us 11 hours to get there with the all stops we made. We saw a giant “potato” being pulled behind a big rig near Burley, Idaho, and the “Niagara of the west” in Twin Falls, Idaho (which is where my camera strap broke). We arrived at our hotel well after dark and in the pouring rain. It was good to sleep.

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Oversize Potato – Burley, Idaho – Fujifilm X100F

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Shoshone Falls – Twin Falls, ID – Fujifilm X100F

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Roesch Family At Shoshone Falls – Twin Falls, ID – Fujifilm X100F

The next day began with beautiful sunny skies and a much shorter drive. It snowed on us a little crossing the Cascade mountain range. We made good time, only stopping for gas, and arrived in Seattle early in the afternoon. It was raining off-and-on in Seattle, which is typical weather for that area this time of year. Thankfully we came prepared with umbrellas.

After checking into our hotel and settling in, we headed out for a local beach while there was still some daylight. We combed the shore for seashells and interesting rocks. The kids walked along the driftwood that’s prevalent along the rocky Pacific Northwest beaches. I love the ocean and it felt good to breath in the salty air!

I used a Fujifilm X100F to capture our adventure. This camera is excellent for travel photography because it is small and lightweight, yet produces excellent images. I attached my wide angle conversion lens on the front of the camera for the first two days. These are all camera-made JPEGs, and I used my Acros Push-Process Film Simulation recipe for all the black-and-white exposures, and my Velvia Film Simulation recipe and my Classic Chrome Film Simulation recipe for the color images. I had a spare battery with me but didn’t use it as one fully-charged battery lasted both days.

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Fall Leaves, Wet Road – Richland, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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No Parking That Way – Ellensburg, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Lunchtime Rain – Lynnwood, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Sticks In The Water – Everett, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Looking Out On The Sea – Everett, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Seashell Search – Everett, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Puget Sound From Hogwarth Beach – Everett, WA – Fujifilm X100F 

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Driftwood In The Sound – Everett, WA – Fujifilm X100F

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Walking On Driftwood – Everett, WA – Fujifilm X100F

Part 2 Part 3 Part 4 Part 5 Part 6

Fujifilm WCL-X100 Wide Angle Conversion Lens Alternative For The X100F (Nikon WC-E68)

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The Fujifilm X100F has a 23mm (35mm equivalent) focal length lens permanently attached to the front of it. The built-in Digital Teleconverter does a good job of increasing the camera’s versatility, with options for 50mm and 75mm. There’s also a 50mm (equivalent) teleconverter lens that you can buy. But what if 35mm isn’t wide enough for you? What are your wide angle options for the X100F?

Fujifilm makes a wide angle conversion lens for the X100 camera series called WCL-X100 (there is also a nearly identical new version called WCL-X100 II). It’s received much praise for optical quality, and it’s been called an essential accessory for X100 series cameras. But it’s also a bit on the expensive side, ranging from $250 to $350.

I like the dramatic results you can get from going really wide angle. I find it to be challenging yet rewarding. Occasionally I wish that the X100F was more wide angle than it is. So I thought it would be a good idea to buy a wide angle conversion lens for my camera.

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Having an extra lens kind of defeats the purpose of the X100F. It becomes less pocket-sized and gains some weight. You move away from the one-camera-one-lens philosophy. I think it’s nice to have the option of going wider, but it’s not something that I would use frequently. I figured that the conversion lens would mostly sit on a shelf, seldom used. My suspicions were that I’d only dust it off occasionally when wanting to shoot more dramatic wide angle pictures.

The WCL-X100 also doesn’t change the focal length all that much. You go from 35mm to 28mm. I really liked the 18mm (equivalent) lens that I used to pair with my X-E1. The 28mm focal length of the wide angle conversion lens is a long ways off from 18mm, which is where I’d love to be if I could.

I decided that I couldn’t justify spending $250 or more on a lens that would mostly go unused and wasn’t what I really wanted anyway. I set the highest price that I’d be willing to pay at $150. Over the last few months I searched online for a WCL-X100 but the cheapest one I found was $200. I almost jumped on it, but talked myself out of the purchase because it was more than I wanted to spend.

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Seattle Center – Seattle, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

A couple of weeks ago I began to look for alternatives to the WCL-X100 wide angle conversion lens, figuring that I’d never find one for $150. Surely there is a third-party option, I thought. I discovered that Vivitar (also sold under a couple other brand names) makes a wide angle conversion lens for the X100 camera series, and it can be found for as little as $30. That’s a bargain!

Having owned a few different Vivitar products over the years, I know that it’s hit-or-miss with that brand, and usually miss, so I looked for some product reviews to get an idea of the quality of their conversion lens. The most glowing reviews that I found said it was mediocre. The worst reviews said it was a piece of garbage, not worth even $30. I decided to pass, hoping for something of better quality.

Then I discovered an old blog post by photographer Noah Kavic, where he figured out how to use a Nikon wide angle conversion lens on his X100 camera, and it cost a fraction of the price of the WCL-X100. I also found a few other photographers who did this same thing. I decided to give it a try!

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Fall Leaves, Wet Road – Richland, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

It takes a few different pieces to make it work, but I found it all online for about $60 (including shipping). I waited for everything to come in the mail, and the last item arrived the day before heading off on a road trip to Seattle. Perfect timing! It was pretty easy to figure out how it all pieced together.

Here’s the parts list:

The Nikon WC-E68, which converts the focal length to 24mm on the X100F, is actually more wide angle than the Fujifilm WCL-X100, which is 28mm. While 24mm compared to 28mm may not seem significant, it is definitely closer to where I want to be, and it is something I’m quite happy about. Use caution when buying the conversion lens as Nikon has similar products that won’t work–make sure it is the WC-E68 that you are purchasing. I paid $50 for mine.

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Up Towards Space – Seattle, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

You need an attachment ring for the X100F, which, if you buy a generic brand, can be found for under $10. Screw the 49mm UV filter (which was something that I already owned) onto the attachment ring. The UV filter is important because corner sharpness is improved when the conversion lens is placed slightly further away from the camera’s lens. The 49mm-46mm step-down adapter ring, which I found for $2, allows the WC-E68 to screw onto the camera. If you have a lens hood, it can be on or off, it doesn’t really matter.

I captured a number of photographs on my road trip using the Nikon WC-E68 wide angle conversion lens, putting it to the test, and I come to some conclusions. First, my suspicions about wanting to use the lens only occasionally was proved true. The camera is bulkier and heavier and less travel-friendly with the wide angle conversion lens attached. I found myself leaving it behind at the hotel room. With the conversion lens attached it barely fit into my jacket pocket.

Something I noticed is that there’s some obvious purple fringing in situations with a strong back-light. Lens flare is also more prevalent when using the conversion lens. I found it best to avoid shooting towards the sun, although the results aren’t horrible if you do. On a positive note, distortion is well controlled.

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Seattle Grind – Seattle, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

I found that there is some significant corner softness when using large apertures. At f/4 it’s downright awful. At f/5.6 it’s not great but usable. By f/8 corner softness isn’t bad at all, but it is still there a little. Even though you won’t find corner-to-corner tack sharpness, corner sharpness is reasonably good when the aperture is f/8 or smaller. The WC-E68 is a lens to use when there is plenty of available light. If you crop the exposures to 28mm you are able to remove some of the corner softness, and I wonder if this is why Fujifilm doesn’t offer a wider conversion lens. The center is sharp no matter the aperture, and I didn’t notice any significant drop in center sharpness when using the conversion lens.

My opinion is that the Nikon WC-E68 wide angle conversion lens is a decent alternative to the Fujifilm WCL-X100 if you have a limited budget, don’t plan to use it often, when you do use it you do so carefully, and you prefer something more wide angle than 28mm. I do appreciate the 24mm focal length and the fact that I only paid $60 instead of $250. The WC-E68 does a reasonable job when the situation calls for something more wide angle than the 35mm focal length of the X100F, and I will happily pair it to my camera every once in awhile.

Below are ten photographs that I captured, all camera-made JPEGs, using the Fujifilm X100F with the Nikon WC-E68 wide angle conversion lens:

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Starbucks Coffee – Riverdale, UT – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

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Oversize Potato – Burley, ID – Fujifilm X100F

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Walk And Not Faint – Boise, ID – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

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No Parking That Way – Ellensburg, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

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Puget Sound From Howarth Beach – Everett, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

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Sticks In The Water – Everett, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

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Puget Sound Vista – Seattle, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

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Seattle’s Space Needle – Seattle, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

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Bubble Hazard – Seattle, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

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Autumn At Seattle Center – Seattle, WA – Fujifilm X100F – 24mm

Don’t Buy A Cheap Crap Camera Strap

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I love how the Fujifilm X100F is small enough to fit into a pocket. It makes it much more convenient to carry around than a bulky camera that has to be hung around your neck or stuffed into a camera bag. A small wrist strap is all that the X100F needs.

You would think that a decent wrist strap could be found for a reasonable price. I was a little shocked at how much most want for one. I did find a nice-looking leather wrist strap on eBay for $10. That’s closer to what I wanted to spend, so I bought it.

The leather wrist strap arrived in the mail and attached easily onto the camera. It was a little tight on my hand, but not too bad. I liked the aesthetic. The camera still fit into my pockets with the strap attached. I was happy with it.

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I’ve used the camera with the wrist strap attached for three months now. I’ve made a lot of exposures during that time. I wouldn’t say that I’ve abused it, but I’ve certainly put it through the wringer. It didn’t look any worse for the wear.

I just got back late last night from a road trip to Seattle. On the very first day of the trip I stopped in Twin Falls, Idaho, to see Shoshone Falls (“Niagara Falls of the west”). I made several exposures. My family was with me. We all admired the massive waterfall that sits inside a deep canyon.

As we were about to leave my three-year-old son tugged at the leather wrist strap that was attached to my X100F. It broke right off! Thankfully I had a firm grip on the camera body.

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Shoshone Falls – Twin Falls, Idaho – Fujifilm X100F

The leather camera strap was crap, cheaply made and unreliable. It busted off much too easily. My camera could have fallen down the cliff and into the canyon below! It would not have survived the fall. It occurred to me that I was precariously handling my camera, and I was completely unaware because I didn’t realize the wrist strap was poorly constructed.

The lesson here is don’t go cheap on your camera strap. It’s what’s preventing your camera from falling, possibly to a tragic end. I got lucky, and my X100F is perfectly fine. Spend the extra money and buy a quality product. That’s what I’m going to do this time. I should have done so in the first place.

I still don’t want to spend gobs of money, but I see the value in having a reliable strap. I don’t want my camera to fall onto a hard surface or into a deep canyon. It needs to be securely handled, and I have to be able to trust that the strap will hold up. With some luck I will find a quality product for a reasonable price. I will keep you updated when I do.

One Camera, One Lens

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I’ve been asked several times now if having a fixed-lens camera is a problem. Is it too limiting? Is it a waste of money? Do you wish you had an interchangeable-lens camera instead?

The Fujifilm X100F has a fixed 23mm (35mm equivalent) focal length lens permanently attached to the front. It’s a great pancake-type lens that allows the camera to fit into a pocket. It’s size, weight and design make the X100F a real joy to use!

Back several months ago I was contemplating purchasing the Fujifilm X-E3 because my X-E1 was getting up there in clicks on the shutter. The X-E3 wasn’t out yet (and wouldn’t be for a little while), but I knew it was coming, and I was set in my mind to buy it when it became available.

But then my daughter, Johanna, was born. Newborn babies need a lot of care, and parents get very little sleep. I found myself up at one or two o’clock in the morning as a daily routine caring for her. To prevent myself from nodding off, I streamed every photography documentary that I could find. In a matter of a few weeks I watched a ton of different shows about photography.

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Kodak Colors – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Something that I found interesting was a lot of photographers–well known, highly successful photographers–used only one camera and one lens. Some photographers owned a couple of cameras and lenses, but would never bring more than one camera and one lens with them. Many photographers used the same gear for decades.

The need for a bunch of cameras and a bunch of lenses is a fairly modern concept, as is the idea that a camera needs to be replaced every year or two. A lot of yesterday’s photographers had only a small selection of photography gear, and they kept it for a long time. They used what they had to the best of their abilities, and created some amazing artwork along the way.

I realized that simplicity is important in photography. Over-complicating things is a trap. Wanting more and more and more is a trap. It’s better to be simple and content with what you already own. Less is more in photography and in life.

At one point several years ago I had four digital cameras with lenses to go with each (plus a bunch of film gear). That was ridiculous, and so I got rid of half of it. That was still too much and so I downsized again. But I noticed, after watching those documentaries, that I still had a lot of photography gear.

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Yashica Rangefinder & Fujicolor – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

That’s when I began to consider the Fujifilm X100F. I wanted less. I wanted simplicity. I wanted one camera and one lens that I’d be happy with for years. One camera with one lens is all any photographer really needs.

Limitations are only a hindrance if you allow them to be. You are the only thing stopping yourself from creating whatever photographs you wish to create. The issue isn’t your gear. In fact, limitations improve art because they force you to be more creative. You might not think outside the box unless you have to think outside the box. Problems are opportunities for imaginative solutions.

The X100F is not too limiting. It’s not a waste of money. I do not wish that I had an interchangeable-lens camera instead. It’s the best camera I’ve ever owned, not necessarily from an image-quality standpoint (although it’s excellent), but from an experience standpoint.

Authenticity & Photography

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Ilford Harman Technology – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Photography is losing its credibility. Photos aren’t seen as honest anymore. People don’t trust pictures. It’s a crisis that nobody’s talking about.

I’ve noticed this for awhile now. When photography consumers (those who view photos) look at pictures, they are skeptical. They assume the photos have been altered. They think it’s a false representation of reality. They believe that the photographer is lying to them. They think right away that they are being bamboozled.

You’ve heard the phrase “pictures never lie” and the term “photographic evidence” but the truth is every picture lies. Photos are inherently deceitful. Every photograph is the truth as seen through stained glass windows. The photographer makes all sorts of decisions before the exposure is even made that have big implications on the outcome. It’s “reality” through the photographer’s mind, not what anyone else might view as reality. Photography is an extraordinarily biased endeavor, as it should be.

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Evening In Temple Square – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

But that’s not the issue. People understand that each photographer will approach a subject differently. We all have our own experiences, thoughts and emotions that become the prism through which we view the world. Everyone is unique, and so everyone has the ability to create unique pictures.

The problem is manipulation. People are altering their photographs to a tremendous degree. Photographers are relying heavily on Photoshop to achieve their vision, and photography consumers feel like they’re being tricked. Even though it is the digital file that’s being manipulated, the viewer feels as though they themselves are the ones being manipulated. They’re being deceived. They’re being lied to.

I saw recently a photograph posted online that had been obviously altered significantly because it was impossible for the scene to exist. It defied reality. It was a composite of multiple photographs, some green-screen work, and some other digital wizardry. A person commented that this image wasn’t photography, but some other form of digital art, and it was incorrect to call it photography. He was fiercely attacked for making his statement, and the argument was made that if a camera was used then it must be a photograph.

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Dying Tree At Grand Canyon Rim – Yellowstone NP, WY – Fujifilm X100F

Imagine if someone made an airplane out of a lawnmower (this is an actual thing, by the way). Is it a lawnmower or an airplane? I see that it has wings. I see the propeller spin. I see it fly through the air. I don’t see it cutting any grass. It’s an airplane made from lawnmower parts. It no longer serves its original purpose due to its modifications, so it cannot be called a lawnmower anymore. This is clear, yet people insist on calling digital art that at one point was an exposure from a camera “photography” even though it no longer resembles that original exposure.

When it is clear that significant manipulations have been made to a photograph, it is a disservice to insist that it be referred to as a photograph. Photography consumers can spot it from a mile away, and they’re saying it’s not a photograph. It makes them feel as though the photographer is trying to pull the wool over their eyes when they call it something that it is clearly not.

“Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me.” People want honesty. They want authenticity. They don’t like being tricked. They don’t like being played a fool. Photography consumers have become skeptical and cynical. “Once bitten, twice shy,” as the saying goes.

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Wasatch September – American Fork Canyon, UT – Fujifilm X100F

I get asked frequently when showing my pictures, “How much did you Photoshop this?” They’re not really interested in what tweaking I did. They are simply verifying their suspicions that I have manipulated the picture. It’s false. It’s a lie. It’s been Photoshopped.

The word “Photoshop” has become a bad word. It’s derogatory, whether fairly or not. A lot of photography consumers don’t like Photoshop, or at least what they believe Photoshop is and what they believe it means to use it. Sure, strong arguments can be made that photographers have been manipulating images since the invention of the camera, that doing so is nothing the great photographers of past generations didn’t themselves do. What’s different today is the degree and frequency of manipulation.

Over the last couple of years a lot of photojournalists have made headlines for manipulating their pictures. Not adjustments to contrast and color saturation, but removing or adding things. In one case, taking someone else’s pictures and adding them to their own to make a story that didn’t exist. Photojournalists have gotten themselves in hot water numerous times for manipulating the story by way of manipulating their pictures. The viewers come away feeling as though they were the ones being manipulated.

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Man In The Straw Hat – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

There is a lack of trust, and understandably so. You can’t take a photograph at face value. And maybe you never could, but it is especially true today. Photograph manipulation is so common that many people assume all pictures have been edited to some degree. Some photographers have taken post-processing to levels never before imagined thanks to advancements in digital technology, so it can be tough to know what’s real and what’s not.

I no longer shoot RAW, but instead rely on out-of-camera JPEGs. Fujifilm cameras have the best JPEG processor in the business, and the X100F that I use creates especially excellent JPEGs that don’t typically require post-processing. The Film Simulation options have a film-like quality to them.

Lately, when showing my recent photographs, I’ve been asked, “How much did you Photoshop this?” I’ve answered, “Not at all, this is exactly as it came out of the camera, completely unedited.” The responses have been, “Oh, wow, that’s great!” And, “Amazing!” And, “Who needs Photoshop?” It’s the exact opposite reaction from what I got before, because I proved their suspicions wrong. The picture wasn’t manipulated. It was authentic. It had more credibility. It wasn’t fake in the eyes of the viewer.

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KeyBank Building – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Now before anyone jumps on me saying that I’m anti-Photoshop, I want to make it very clear that I’m not. I have no issues whatsoever with anyone using software to help create the images that they want to create. I’ve edited tens of thousands of pictures, and I will continue using software to edit exposures that need it. What I have said isn’t about me, but about the attitudes of photography consumers.

There is a growing anti-Photoshop movement, and it’s not from photographers but from photography consumers. It’s been building for years, but it seems to be gaining momentum lately. Within some circles, Photoshop is a curse word, the new “f” word. A sentiment that’s been widening is that Photoshop equals fake. These people believe that if you use software to manipulate your photos, then they’re fake. You are a liar. Many people don’t care whatsoever how a picture was made, but a group that’s increasing fast does indeed care!

Instead of looking at this negatively, I believe there is an opportunity. You could set yourself apart by becoming a more authentic photographer. Create more in-camera and less in-software. Be more real. Be more genuine. Be more honest. That’s what the anti-Photoshop photography consumers are asking for.

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Salt Lake Towers – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

It’s not pandering to the crowd to do so. You can please those who care how an image was made and those that don’t care at the same time, by creating great pictures with only limited use of post-processing tools. If you disregard the anti-Photoshoppers you will only alienate potential consumers, so there is a downside to ignoring this crisis. You might even fight against it and double-down on digital editing; however, it’s hard to fight against a rising tide.

My recommendation is to look for ways to rely less on post-processing software and rely more on your camera skills. When you do edit, be as upfront about it as possible. If you did extensive manipulation, maybe consider calling the image something other than a photograph. Try using camera-made JPEGs, and if your camera isn’t good at making them, consider a Fujifilm product, such as the X100F. Or maybe shoot film.

Be truthful, that’s what people want. People think that you’re manipulating them through your images, and they really want you to prove them wrong. You’d be surprised at how impressed people are when you show them an excellent photograph that wasn’t touched with editing software. There is a significant group that is much more enthralled by what you can do with your camera than what you can do with your computer. They don’t care how good you are with software, they care how skilled you are as a photographer. And they don’t like feeling as though you’re trying to fool them. They want honest pictures. They appreciate authentic photographers.

My Fujifilm X100F Acros Push-Process Film Simulation Recipe


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Back in the days before digital photography I’d sometimes push-process my black-and-white film. The technique involved underexposing the film (typically by one or two stops) and then developing for longer times. Essentially you underexpose in camera and overexpose in development, creating a correct exposure. This results in images with more contrast and stronger grain.

There are a couple reasons why one would push-process their film. First, you could shoot with less light. A lot of people used to consider ISO 400 to be a high-ISO film, but pushing that film two stops would make it ISO 1600 (really high-ISO). Second, the push-process aesthetic is bold and gritty, and you could achieve more dramatic results. So you might choose to push-process out of necessity or artistic vision or sometimes both.

The Fujifilm X100F has a great black-and-white Film Simulation called Acros, named after their Neopan Acros film. It looks wonderful, with a true film-like quality. I use this Film Simulation often. But sometimes I want a bolder, gritter, more dramatic black-and-white picture than my Acros Film Simulation recipe provides. So I created a new recipe that resembles film that has been push-processed. In other words, it has noticeably more contrast and grain.

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Turbulence – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F – Acros Push-Process

There are a few important things to understand about the Acros Film Simulation. First, Fujifilm programmed the amount of grain to increase as you increase the ISO. Next, the higher you go above ISO 800 the smaller the dynamic range gets. Finally, the Digital Teleconverter can effect noise and grain, most noticeably at high ISOs.

My Acros Push-Process Film Simulation recipe resembles black-and-white film that has been push-processed anywhere from one to one-and-a-half stops. I think sometimes it looks more like ISO 100 film that has been pushed and sometimes it looks more like ISO 400 film that has been pushed. A lot depends on the ISO that the camera is set to. It’s rarely as dramatic or gritty as one could achieve with actual film, but it produces great results in the right situations. I’d actually like to see Fujifilm add a push-process Film Simulation option to their X cameras.

The differences between this Film Simulation recipe and my original Acros recipe are increased highlights and shadows (for stronger contrast), a slight refinement to noise reduction and sharpening, and the added grain effect. The changes aren’t major, but the results are noticeably different.

Acros/Acros+R/Acros+G
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlights: +4
Shadows: +3
Noise Reduction: -3
Sharpening: +1
Grain Effect: Strong
ISO: Auto up to 6400 (typically)
Exposure Compensation: +1 (typically)

Example photos, all camera-made JPEGs captured using my Acros Push-Process Film Simulation recipe:

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Evening Reflection Monochrome – Magna, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Dramatic Window – Riverdale, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Thoughts Grow With A Cup of Joe – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Coffee Stop – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Proud Pilot – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Phone Photographer – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Cellphone Capture – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Jesus Statue – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Waiting Is The Hard Part – Riverdale, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Thou Shalt Not – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Pull – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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No Overnight Parking – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Michael’s – Riverdale, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Samick Guitar – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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LDS Temple – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Salt Lake Towers – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Temple Gate – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Church Fountain – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Little Church In The City – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Evening In Temple Square – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X100F

See also:
My Fujifilm X100F Classic Chrome Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Vintage Kodachrome Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Velvia Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Astia Film Simulation Recipe

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Placing An Attachment Ring On A Fujifilm X100F 

Fujifilm X100F with attachment ring and lens hood.

Should you wish to use filters or a lens hood with your Fujifilm X100F, you must first buy an attachment ring. Fujifilm sells an attachment ring (with a lens hood) for $70, which is ridiculous, but you can find generic brands for much less. I paid less than $10 for mine.

The attachment ring arrived in the mail yesterday, and it wasn’t immediately obvious how it connects to the camera. I thought I might have ordered the wrong product. So I researched the web to figure it out.

What I didn’t realize is there is a ring that is screwed around the lens on the X100F, which must first be removed. It’s located between the focus ring and the front of the lens. You wouldn’t know that it can twist off by looking at it, and it’s tightly on, but with a little muscle power it will turn counter-clockwise. Again, look for a ring that circles the far end of the lens, immediately after the focus ring, and rotate it off.

Can you spot the ring on the lens that must be removed?

Removed ring on the left, attachment ring and lens hood on the right.

Once the ring is removed, the attachment ring simply twists on clockwise in its place. It’s really easy, but not apparent, so I thought it would be helpful to share with you how to do it. Hopefully this is useful to someone.

The one problem with adding a lens hood is that the camera becomes less pocket-sized. It won’t fit in my pants pocket, but it still fits in my sweater pocket. Be sure to keep the ring that you unscrewed from camera, put it somewhere safe. You never know when you might want it again.

Daylight Savings Ends

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Past Time To Clean Up – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Last night at two o’clock in the morning Daylight Savings Time officially came to an end. Like Bill Murray in Groundhog Day, those who were awake experienced the one o’clock hour twice.

Daylight Savings is an exercise in insanity. Every year we all make-believe that the time is different than it actually is. Never mind that there is a spike in heart attacks that immediately follows the clock adjustments. It’s an irrational song and dance that everybody blindly does, and nobody even knows why we do it (it has nothing to do with agriculture).

Many clocks automatically changed themselves last night. The one inside your Fujifilm X100F did not. You need to manually adjust it. If you forget to do this then three months from now you’ll realize that the time is stamped wrong on all your exposures. So take a moment right now and change the time on your camera.

If you’re not sure how, simply push the round Menu button, go to Set Up (a.k.a. the wrench), select User Settings, then Date/Time, and finally adjust the hour back one number. Changing the time on the X100F isn’t immediately obvious, but it’s not difficult, either. Just be sure to remember to do it.

Fujifilm X100F Battery Life

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“How’s the battery life on the Fujifilm X100F?” I’ve been asked that question a few times now.

It would seem to be a straight-forward question. It should say right in the camera specs what kind of battery life you could expect. But it’s much more convoluted than that. There are many variables.

The manual states that you can get 390 frames on a fully charged battery if you use the Optical Viewfinder, or 270 if you use the Electronic Viewfinder. If you use the LCD (instead of the OVF or EVF) it falls somewhere in-between, but Fujifilm doesn’t provide a specific number.

So where does actual battery life fall? A lot depends on your shooting habits. Do you constantly review your pictures? Do you use the flash? Record video? Continuous auto-focus? RAW+JPEG? Long exposures? WiFi? Just the way you handle the camera can have a big impact on battery life.

I’ve actually captured more than 390 frames on a single charge. It’s possible to do it, but you have to be highly disciplined, and not do any battery-draining activities. When you forget to bring the spare battery you begin to consider every way in which you can extend the battery life.

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Road Through The Autumn Trees – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

I’ve also experienced less than 270 frames from a fully charged battery. This isn’t hard to do because there are many options that will deplete the charge. I’ve managed less than 200 exposures on one battery more than once.

To answer the question, battery life on the Fujifilm X100F is anywhere between less-than-200 frames to more-than-400 frames, depending on exactly how you use the camera. That’s a big disparity!

I think having at least one spare battery is essential, and you might consider having two if you make a lot of exposures between charges. Spare batteries are cheap if you get a generic brand. I paid about $10 for mine. It doesn’t have quite the same battery life as the Fujifilm battery that came with the camera, but it’s not all that far off, either. I would guesstimate the difference to be around 10%. I just keep one spare and bring the charger along when I travel.

For just everyday shooting I don’t bring a spare battery with me. If I find that I’m capturing more images than expected, I simply do more to conserve the battery. If I’m travelling or won’t have access to a charger and I expect to make a bunch of exposures, I’ll definitely bring a spare battery. I’ve yet to feel like I needed two spares, but if I were to photograph a wedding I would certainly want extra batteries just in case. I try to ensure that I begin each day with both batteries fully charged.

Battery life on the X100F ranges anywhere from good to so-so. A lot depends on the user. I find battery life to be sufficient most of the time. For those times it’s not, spares can be purchased for very little money and they’re lightweight and compact, so it’s not a huge deal. I wouldn’t let it stop you from purchasing the camera. Yes, it would be nice if you could get a thousand shots on a full charge, but it doesn’t bother me that I don’t.

Still Life Photography With Ceramic Tiles & Fujifilm X100F

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I try to capture at least one photograph every day. It keeps me in good photographic shape. If you are an athlete or musician you practice daily, so why should it be any different for photographers?

I usually am able to accomplish this daily routine, but sometimes life gets in the way and it’s just not practical. I don’t feel too bad when this happens. Sometimes I might even need a short break. There aren’t any strict rules. I simply understand that it’s good to photograph as much as I can to maintain or even improve my skills.

The Fujifilm X100F helps me with this goal. It’s small and lightweight, which makes it easy to carry around. It creates fantastic pictures in-camera, so I don’t have to worry about my workflow piling up. I’m just able to shoot.

On days that I’m not able to get out with my camera and capture photographs, one thing that I like to do is set up some faux wood ceramic tiles and make some still-life type images of my cameras and film. This is very quick, easy and cheap, and I feel good that I’ve made some exposures.

I found some faux wood ceramic tiles at a local hardware store, and they were only a couple dollars each. I started out with two and now I have six of them. Each one looks a little different than the next. I might lay them all flat and capture from above, or I might stand one up at a 90 degree angle and shoot from a low perspective. I use natural light from a window to illuminate the scene.

When I arrange a scene, I try to think of a story as to why the items are placed they way they are. Photography is storytelling, so things shouldn’t be completely random. Sometimes window light can be soft and sometimes it can be harsh, depending on the exact conditions, so consider how to best use whatever lighting is available (whether soft or harsh) to further tell the story. In other words, use photographic vision.

The Fujifilm X100F, which has a fixed 23mm (35mm equivalent) lens, isn’t necessarily the best choice for this type of photography because of the wide angle focal length. I typically prefer telephoto for this. But the camera’s Digital Teleconverter comes in handy, and the 50mm option makes using the X100F more practical for still-life pictures.

If you find yourself stuck at home wanting to photograph something and you’re all out of ideas, try using ceramic tiles and natural window light to create some still-life images. It’s good practice and you might even capture something interesting.

B&W:

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Ilford Harman Technology – Fujifilm X100F – Acros

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Holga 120 – Fujifilm X100F – Acros

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Classic Photography – Fujifilm X100F – Acros

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Ilford HP5 Plus 400 – Fujifilm X100F – Acros

 

Color:

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Kodak Colors – Fujifilm X100F – “Vintage Kodachrome“

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Yashica Rangefinder & Fujicolor – Fujifilm X100F – Classic Chrome

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Kodacolor – Fujifilm X100F – Classic Chrome

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FED 5c & Film – Fujifilm X100F – Astia

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Road Trip Essentials – Fujifilm X100F – Classic Chrome

Happy Halloween!

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Stranger Things – Ogden, UT – Fujifilm X100F

As the days grow shorter and the nights turn colder, and the blustery winds of change howl, the carefree fun of summer gives way to unsettled autumn delight. Pumpkin coffee, sweet chocolate candy, houses made spooky and eccentric costumes are manifestations of the season, as are colorful leaves covering the grass and newly dormant trees obscuring the moon.

Like campfire ghost stories, the mysterious and eerie Halloween night, the last night of October, brings an apprehensive gaiety. Houses decorated, outfits on, and children going door-to-door hoping for sweet treats. It’s all in good fun.

The Fujifilm X100F is the perfect camera for this day. It’s small and lightweight and doesn’t get in the way, easily hiding in a pocket. The flash and leaf shutter combine to make family snapshots a breeze. You can capture great memories and beautiful images, while not limiting yourself to the role of designated photographer. This is the camera to have with you tonight.

Happy Halloween!

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Dia de los Muertos – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Fujifilm Fanboy

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Fortuity – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

There are Canon guys, Nikon guys, Sony guys, Leica guys, etc., people who praise their camera brand and criticize all the others. These are known as fanboys. They are fanatical about one camera brand, like someone who roots for a particular sports team.

There was this photographer I knew back when I lived in California who was a Canon guy. He would exalt his Canon gear up one side and down the other. He would tell anyone who didn’t have a Canon camera that they should get a Canon camera. He would eagerly inform you that Canon was the number one camera brand and that most pros use it “for a reason.”

A few years back I overheard one photographer tell an aspiring photographer, who was seeking guidance on how to improve, that he needed to buy a certain Nikon camera in order to make better photographs. He needed more dynamic range and better high ISO performance and quicker auto focus and if only he had this specific gear from this certain manufacturer he’d be able to achieve the results he wanted.

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Carousel Counsel – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Leica has perhaps the most fanatic followers of any camera brand, and it has been well documented and heavily discussed all over the web. Leica guys will tell you that there is nothing like shooting with a Leica, and once you photograph with one you’ll never touch another camera brand ever again.

I never really understood this. There’s not a huge difference between camera brands. Every camera is good nowadays and none are perfect. People squabble over a two point difference in some meaningless score over at a website that rates cameras (and that website states a two point difference is imperceptible). It seems so ridiculous.

I doubt you’ve ever said, “That picture must be from a Canon camera!” Or, “The photographer must have used a Nikon to capture that!” Or, “You can really appreciate the Sony look in this image!” Or, “Only a Leica could have created that picture!” That’s because a RAW file from any camera can be manipulated to look however you want. You can make identical pictures with cameras from every camera brand.

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Mobile Service – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

The only things that really separate one brand from the next are really small things. One might have a little bit different setup or tiny innovation that the others don’t. I know this because I have owned digital cameras made by Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Samsung and others. By and large they are all the same, much more similar than dissimilar.

I bring up all this because I have been accused of being “another one of those Fujifilm fanboys.” And, based on the title of this blog, it’s understandable. I do love my Fujifilm X100F. And I loved the X-E1 that I used to own.

What is it about Fujifilm that makes me like it more than other brands of cameras? Am I really a Fujifilm fanboy? I decided that there are two things that separate Fujifilm from everyone else in my book. The first is user experience and the second is JPEG quality.

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Transit Shadow – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

One thing I really like about Fujifilm is the retro styling. People ask me from time to time if I’m shooting a vintage film camera. That’s great and all, but what I really appreciate are the old school controls. There’s no PASM dial. You don’t have to dig through menus to adjust the aperture, you twist a ring around the lens. The shutter and ISO are controlled through dials on the top. Having learned photography in the film era (with a Canon A-E1), all of this is normal, natural and simple. It’s a joy to use! It’s the way cameras should have always been, and I wonder why camera makers ever moved away from it. This isn’t completely unique to Fujifilm, but it’s not all that common, either.

Straight-out-of-camera JPEG quality on Fujifilm cameras are beyond that of any other camera brand. You are probably saying things like “so what” and “you should try RAW” right about now. I was there with you before I began using Fujifilm cameras. I shot a lot of RAW. But then I discovered that Fujifilm cameras can produce JPEGs that resemble post-processed RAW files. I soon realized that I didn’t need to edit my pictures!

I used to estimate that for every hour spent photographing I would need two-to-three hours for editing, depending on exactly how many exposures I made and how much work each needed. That’s a lot of time sitting in front of a computer tweaking images! I always wondered if there was a better, more efficient way. And there certainly is!

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Watching & Waiting – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

You might be wondering about the seemingly unrelated photographs that I’ve included in this article. A few days ago I picked up my aunt from the Salt Lake City airport. I arrived about 20 minutes before she found her way to baggage claim, and then we waited about 15 minutes for her luggage to show up. I brought along my Fujifilm X100F and snapped some street-type images while there.

I captured pictures (off and on) for about 35 minutes, which, in the days before I shot Fujifilm, meant that I’d be staring at a computer monitor post-processing RAW files for somewhere between an hour and ten minutes to an hour and forty five minutes. Instead, it took me ten minutes to upload the JPEGs from the camera onto the computer, sift through them to decide which were keepers, then upload those to Flickr (which is what I use to backup my work). Done. I went about the rest of my day. Tons and tons of time saved.

The pictures here are straight-out-of-camera JPEGs. No editing done or required. Do they look like typical JPEGs? No, they don’t because they look finished. They look like they would if I had made RAW exposures and then edited them with software. Or perhaps they have a film-like quality to them.

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Arrived – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

I can’t tell you how many hours I’ve spent sitting at a computer editing pictures–too many to even begin to estimate. There were times in the past that my workflow was so backed up that I purposefully left my camera on the shelf collecting dust for days and even weeks because I didn’t want to create any more post-processing work. Instead of that, I now spend more time with my family and creating images.

If I didn’t have a Fujifilm camera, my life would consist of significantly more time at a computer. I already spend too much time with my face looking at a screen. Life’s not happening in an office. Life’s not happening at a desk. I missed out on a lot, but I’m not missing out on it now. That may seem over dramatic, but it is true.

I’ve found something that has made a difference to me personally, and I love to share that with you. Does that make me a Fujifilm fanboy? Perhaps. If it does, I’m not ashamed of it. I hope you understand.

Simplicity vs Complexity

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Keep it super simple (the KISS method). Simple is simply better, right?

Why, then, are cameras so darn complicated? Why are there so many menus, options, buttons, knobs, wheels and switches? Why does it take a novel-sized instruction manual to tell you how to operate it?

There are four critical camera controls: aperture, shutter, ISO and focus. This is true for every camera, although in some cases these things might be fixed, such as a home-built pinhole camera (the aperture is a tiny hole, the shutter might be a piece of tape over the hole, ISO is whatever film was placed in it, and focus is determined by the position of the camera itself).

Fujifilm has simplified what other camera makers have over complicated. On the X100F, the aperture is adjusted via a ring around the lens. The shutter speed is set via a knob on top, as is the ISO. Focus is controlled by a ring around the lens. This is how cameras were designed for many decades. This is a simple, user-friendly setup.

When cameras became more electronically controlled, camera makers got away from simplicity, and convoluted the whole process. They changed everything, and made you use a PASM dial and dig through menus for even basic adjustments. It never had to be this way. Thankfully, with Fujifilm, it’s not.

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If you don’t want to manually control some of the settings, the X100F can auto everything. Do you like shutter priority? Set the aperture to A. Like aperture priority? Set the shutter to A. Want the camera to choose the ISO? Set ISO to A. Don’t want to manually focus? Flip the switch on the side to C or S. It can be as manual or auto as you’d like, and going back and forth is easy.

All of the less important settings can be adjusted through the various buttons, wheels, switched, etc., found all over the camera, which can be customized to taste. The Q button allows quick access to almost everything.

Different people have different needs, and prefer different features and settings. The more people demand various things, the more complex the design becomes. The X100F, which is the fourth generation in the series, has many more features and options than the original X100.

What I appreciate is that, even though there are tons of features, options, settings and buttons, the four critical camera controls–aperture, shutter, ISO and focus–are kept simple. The other stuff is kept fairly uncomplicated (all things considered), too, but the things that I adjust from image-to-image are right where they are supposed to be. The design is how cameras were meant to be designed. Fujifilm kept it super simple. Or, at least, as simple as they practically could.

My Fujifilm X100F Vintage Kodachrome Film Simulation Recipe


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Kodak Colors – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

Kodachrome
They give us those nice bright colors
They give us the greens of summer
Makes you think all the world’s a sunny day

Kodachrome is probably the most iconic photographic film ever made. It was legendary, and many people saw the world through its colors. Kodak produced Kodachrome film from 1935 through 2009, when it was suddenly discontinued.

The Kodachrome name has been used for many different films over the years. The first Kodachrome product was a two-glass-plate color negative that was introduced in 1915. Like all other color photography methods of its time, the results weren’t particularly good and the product not especially successful.

In 1935 Kodak released its next Kodachrome, which was a color transparency film with an ISO of 10. This Kodachrome was the first color film that produced reasonably accurate colors and was the first commercially successful color film. It became the standard film for color photography for a couple decades, and was even Ansel Adams’ preferred choice for color work. The December 1946 issue of Arizona Highways, which was the first all-color magazine in the world, featured Barry Goldwater’s Kodachrome images.

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Kodak Transparencies – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-E1

Kodak made significant improvements to Kodachrome, and in 1961 released Kodachrome II. This film boasted more accurate colors, sharper images, finer grain, and a faster ISO of 25. While it was still similar to the previous Kodachrome, it was better in pretty much every way. A year later Kodachrome-X was introduced, which had an ISO of 64.

Another generation of Kodachrome, which came out in 1974, saw Kodachrome II replaced by Kodachrome 25 and Kodachrome-X replaced by Kodachrome 64. The differences between this version and the previous weren’t huge and image quality was nearly identical. The biggest change was going from the K-12 to the K-14 development process (which was a little less complex, but still complex). This generation of Kodachrome is what most people think of when they picture (pun intended) the film, gracing the pages of magazines like National Geographic.

I personally have shot plenty of Kodachrome, mostly Kodachrome 64. It was a good general use film that produced sharp images and pleasing colors. I haven’t used it in more than a decade. Its days are gone. Even if you can find an old roll of the film, there are no labs in the world that will develop it.

Plenty of people have attempted to mimic the Kodachrome look with their digital images. It’s not as simple as it sounds. Alien Skin Exposure software has what is likely the best one-size-fits-all Kodachrome presets, but I don’t think they’re exactly right because the results vary from camera to camera.

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L.A. Trolley – Perris, CA – Nikon D3300, Alien Skin Exposure 1935-1960 Kodachrome preset.

Besides, it all depends on exactly what Kodachrome look you are after. There are different versions, including about a dozen that I didn’t mention above, each with their own slightly varied look. Perhaps filters were used in conjunction with the film (which was more common in the film era than the digital era). How it was viewed, whether projected, light table, printed or scanned, also effected the appearance. Kodachrome has a long shelf life if stored in a dark, cool space, but if not stored properly it can fade or become damaged, and maybe you prefer one of those looks over the other. It’s really tough to pin down exactly what Kodachrome looks like because there are so many variables.

Fujifilm X cameras, such as the X100F that I own, have different Film Simulation options. One of those is called Classic Chrome, which is supposed to mimic the general look of Kodak color transparency film. Some have suggested that Classic Chrome imitates Kodachrome, but I think it more closely resembles Ektachrome.

A couple of days ago I accidentally discovered a vintage Kodachrome recipe for my Fujifilm X100F, based on Classic Chrome. By “accidentally” I mean that I had no intentions of creating a Kodachrome look. I captured a RAW image and played around with it in the camera’s built-in RAW editor. I was trying to see what crazy looks I could get if I really messed around with the settings. One of the versions that I created reminded me of vintage Kodachrome.

I dug out my old Kodachrome slides, plus my grandparent’s really old Kodachrome slides (which I happen to have at my house), looked at some vintage magazines and did some internet searches, and studied what real Kodachrome looks like. Relying strictly on my fading memory isn’t always the best idea, so having actual samples to compare was useful. Thankfully I found plenty of old Kodachrome pictures from many different eras to examine.

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Rubber Boots – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F, original “Vintage Kodachrome” image.

The original picture (above) that I thought looked like vintage Kodachrome was somewhat close to the 1935-1960 version of Kodachrome, but it needed some adjustments. I played around a little more and I think that I have created a pretty good Film Simulation recipe for that generation of the film. Some images seem more convincing than others, but overall I believe it is surprisingly accurate.

One thing that I’m not completely thrilled about with the recipe is the film grain. I think that strong is too strong and weak is too weak. I wish that there was a medium option, but there’s not. On real Kodachrome the grain is not uniform and tends to clump, and so the grain looks much different than Fujifilm’s more regular faux grain. Beginning with Kodachrome II the grain was more fine, and so I definitely wouldn’t pick strong grain if I was trying to simulate a later version. The reason that I chose strong instead of weak is because it furthers the impression of vintage, despite the inaccuracy.

A characteristic of the 1935-1960 Kodachrome is the color shift. Blues veered toward cyan, reds were a bit darker, and skin tones had more of a bronze/orange look. It wasn’t as true-to-life as later versions of the film, but for its time it was considered very accurate.

I think my Vintage Kodachrome Film Simulation recipe is a great way to create in-camera retro-styled images. The example photographs in this post are all straight-out-of-camera JPEGs. It’s pretty darn close to that first era of Kodachrome slide film, and while not 100% accurate, it definitely has the right aesthetic to be convincing.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +4
Shadow: -2
Color: +4
Sharpening: +1
Noise Reduction: -3
Grain: Strong
White Balance: Auto, +2 Red, -4 Blue
ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to -1 (typically)

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Books On A Mantel – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Two Thirds – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Pumpkin – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Leaves In The Grass – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Leaves Around A Tree – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Bicycle Trail – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Through The Fall Forest – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Autumn In The Woods – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Golden Forest – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Changing Leaves – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Changing Forest – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Red Autumn Leaf – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Seeds of Gold – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Boy Unsure – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Respect – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Autumn Canopy – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Weber River Autumn – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Log Above The Riverbank – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

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Weber River In October – Uintah, UT – Fujifilm X100F “Vintage Kodachrome”

See also:
My Fujifilm X100F Acros Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Velvia Film Simulation Recipe
My Fujifilm X100F Astia Film Simulation Recipe

Help Fuji X Weekly

Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There's a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!

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Fujifilm X100F Dynamic Range Settings

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Autumn At Mill Creek – Bountiful, UT – FujiFilm X100F Astia @ DR200 – captured on a sunny afternoon with strong highlights and deep shadows.

Fujifilm X cameras, including the X100F that I own, have three Dynamic Range settings: DR100, DR200 and DR400. Let’s explore what these setting are and what it means for your pictures.

To begin with, it’s important to understand that the X-Trans sensors found inside Fujifilm cameras are actually made by Sony. Once upon a time digital camera sensors would increase the energy pumped into them to make the photosites more sensitive to light in order to increase ISO. At some point Sony figured out that doing so was unnecessary, that the camera, even in very dark areas, was recording a lot of information. Thus, the “ISO-less” sensor was born.

An ISO-less sensor, which modern Sony-made sensors are, increases ISO by simply increasing the luminosity levels with software. You can try this at home by capturing an exposure at ISO 6400 and a RAW exposure at ISO 200 underexposed by five stops, then brighten the underexposed file in software to the correct exposure. You’ll notice that the the two files now look the same.

In other words, the camera is actually capturing every shot at base ISO and increasing the brightness after the exposure for whatever ISO was selected. You are completely unaware, and it is automatically done, even to RAW files. That’s why they call it ISO-less.

What this means is that there are a lot of details that can be pulled out of the shadows of your RAW files. The highlights can clip rather sharply and there isn’t a lot of room for error, but you have tons of room in the shadows. It’s best to underexpose to protect the highlights and increase the luminosity in post.

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Vibrant Forest – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F Velvia @ DR200 – contrast from back-lit trees are handled well, with shadows that are strong but not devoid of details.

 

That’s great for RAW shooters, but what about those who prefer JPEG? Fujifilm built into their cameras the Dynamic Range settings, which allows the benefits of the ISO-less sensor to be applied to JPEGs.

Have you ever wondered why base ISO on Fujifilm X cameras is ISO 200? It’s actually a software trick. The real base ISO on the sensor is ISO 100 (which is available as an “extended ISO”), but the camera applies a curve in software to pull more details out of the shadows, essentially underexposing the scene and then increasing the luminosity of everything (except the highlights) to maximize the dynamic range. This is also why some people claim that Fujifilm “cheats” with their ISOs.

The Dynamic Range settings don’t mean anything to RAW files, but they have a big effect on JPEGs. They allow you to retain shadow details and prevent clipped highlights.

The default setting is Dynamic Range 100 (DR100). This is the standard Dynamic Range option and it cannot be turned off (except by selected extended ISO 100). Dynamic Range 200 (DR200) is next, and if it is selected the minimum ISO is 400 (instead of ISO 200). The third option is Dynamic Range 400 (DR400), and if it is selected the minimum ISO is 800. There is also an option to let the camera auto-decide which Dynamic Range setting to use.

The reason that the minimum ISO increases is because the camera is increasing the luminosity in the files (except for the highlights) to an equivalent of that ISO. The good news is that there really isn’t an image quality difference between ISO 200 and ISO 800, so there should be no hesitation using ISO 800 if you want a larger dynamic range.

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Autumn Forest Light – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F Astia @ DR200 – sunlight created deep shadows, but they are handled quite well by the camera.

A lot of people keep the Dynamic Range set at the default DR100, and that’s fine for them. I think it works well in low contrast situations. For normal everyday use I prefer DR200 because it does a great job of capturing the dynamic range of most scenes while not looking flat. DR400 is a good option for scenes with a large dynamic range (it seems nearly impossible to clip highlights), but if there isn’t enough contrast in the scene your images will look flat (but contrast could be added in post-processing).

Which Dynamic Range setting is best and which you should choose depends on the situation. I don’t think DR100 is strong enough, and you are more likely to experience clipped highlights and deep black shadows with it selected. DR400 seems too strong, but if you plan to post-process the JPEG this gives you the most latitude for editing (then again, if you are going to post-process, why not shoot RAW?). DR200 seems to be the “just right” option that delivers results similar to what I’d achieve if I had edited a RAW exposure.

That’s putting it simply because there’s a lot more to it than that. Each scene has to be judged individually. If the light is even and there’s little contrast in the scene perhaps DR100 gives you the best look. Each Film Simulation has different amounts of contrast, so maybe DR200 works good for one and DR100 or DR400 works best for another. And it also depends on what exactly you’ve got highlights and shadows set to within your Film Simulation.

There are a lot of moving parts and things to consider when determining which Dynamic Range setting to select. There are many variables that might make you adjust it. I find myself using DR200 most of the time, and occasionally adjusting it up or down if I need to.

In conclusion, the Fujifilm Dynamic Range settings are a great way for JPEG users to take advantage of the large dynamic range capabilities of the X-Trans sensor. It has no effect on RAW, you will have to apply your own curves to pull out the shadow details if you are a RAW shooter. It’s a neat trick that Fuji uses to elevate their out-of-camera JPEGs to a level beyond that of other camera brands. It’s just a matter of figuring out which settings are best for each situation.

Update:

A reader contacted me to explain how I got this wrong, that the Dynamic Range settings only protect highlights and don’t effect shadows. That’s true, but because highlights are protected, I’m exposing a little more than I would otherwise, making the image a little brighter, including shadows. My exposure compensation is typically dialed between +2/3 and +1-1/3, situation specific, which would give me blown highlights without DR. So while the Dynamic Range options don’t directly increase the dynamic range within the shadows, they indirectly do.

My Fujifilm X100F Astia Film Simulation Recipe



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Fujifilm Astia 100F color reversal (slide) film was popular among portrait and fashion photographers because of its excellent skin tone reproduction. It was known for low contrast and low color saturation, as well as having a slight warm/yellow cast and creamy highlights.

Astia would be pretty low on your list of choices for anything other than pictures of people. Because of this I only ever shot one roll of Astia 100F film.

The Astia Film Simulation on Fujifilm cameras doesn’t match real Astia film. It has far too much contrast and saturation, and the cast is more orange-red than yellow. But that doesn’t make it unworthy of your use. In fact, on the X-E1 that I used to own, it was my favorite choice and I used it probably 80% of the time.

Astia is not my favorite choice for color on my X100F. Classic Chrome is my go-to option, and I select Velvia (which has been noticeably improved) when I want something more bold. There is still a time and place for Astia, and I do use it occasionally.

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Autumn Forest Light – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F Astia

Something interesting that I discovered back on the X-E1, and it is still true on the X100F, is that Astia and Pro Neg Hi are nearly identical. Put them side-by-side and it can be tough to tell which is which. Astia has just a hair more color saturation and is just a tad warmer. Adjust color by one and customize the white balance and the two options are completely interchangeable.

One thing that I like about the Astia Film Simulation is that it strikes a good balance, sort of the Goldilocks of the Film Simulation options. Not too little or too much contrast, not too little or too much saturation, not too little or too much warmth–for many situations it is just a good choice. It won’t wow you but it won’t underwhelm you, either. I think it is a better standard Film Simulation than the standard (Provia) option.

I have customized my Astia Film Simulation to my liking. It is not intended to be more faithful to the actual film. I think if you were to adjust my settings to be -2 color and take a little red out of the white-balance you would be pretty close to actual Astia film. That’s not the look I want, so I stick with my custom recipe, which I think is better than Astia film ever was for things other than portraits.

Astia
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -2
Color: +1
Noise Reduction: -3
Sharpening: +1
Grain Effect: Weak
White Balance: Auto
ISO: Auto up to ISO 12800
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 (typically)

Example photos, all camera-made JPEGs captured using my Astia Film Simulation recipe:

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Leaf On The Windshield  – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Autumn Apple – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Red Leaf In The Water – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Downtown Tree In October – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Autumn At Mill Creek – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Sunlight In The Forest – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Leaf In The Stream – Bountiful, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Pumpkin Donut – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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FED 5c & Film – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Blue Sky High Rise – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Tired & Sad – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Downtown Tourists – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Temple Square – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Pantheon & Patriotism – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Zions Bank Building – SLC, UT – Fujifilm X100F

See also: My Fujifilm X100F Acros Film Simulation Recipe

Help Fuji X Weekly

Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There's a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!

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Fall at Black Island Farms

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Sun Corn – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

Fall is for family field trips to the farm. In fact, my family and I went on a field trip to Black Island Farms in Syracuse, Utah, just last week. I also brought along my Fujifilm X100F.

The farm was great! We went on a tractor ride to pick pumpkins in a pumpkin patch. We saw some farm animals. We watched a pig race and a turkey race. We played on a giant playground made from stacks of hay. We made our way through a big corn maze (and didn’t get too lost). It was a nice autumn afternoon, and this was a great way to soak it in.

As far as photography goes, it wasn’t the best conditions. The midday light was harsh with plenty of bright highlights and deep shadows. And when you have four young kids, you need a free hand or two for them. But that’s where the X100F came in handy.

The camera is small enough to fit into a large pocket. Grab it when I want to snap a picture, hide it when I need free hands! Smaller is better in these types of situations, and pocket-sized is a huge plus. A DSLR is simply too big and bulky.

I used the built-in fill-flash frequently on this trip. It handled the tough lighting without fuss. The X100F has a good dynamic range, but the scenes typically exceeded the limit of the sensor; however, the flash helped fill the gap, making the light a little more even.

I used my Classic Chrome Film Simulation recipe for these photographs. I love the film-like way it renders the pictures. It has a classic Kodak slide film look. And it come straight out of the camera looking finished. These are unedited. I don’t have time to mess with RAW anymore, and the X100F speeds up my workload drastically by producing good results that don’t need editing.

The Fujifilm X100F is the best camera I’ve ever used for snapping family pictures. Go on an adventure with the kids and come back with nice pictures to supplement the great memories made. It’s so effortless. I wish that I had this camera years ago!

The takeaway is that a couple hours at the farm in difficult light can still produce a number of keeper photos when you have the X100F in your pocket. These are mostly personal family pictures, but I hope you enjoy them nonetheless.

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Autumn Flag – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Red Tractor – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Empty Bench – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Biting Cabbage – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Carrot Farmer – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Three Pumpkin Heads – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Say Hello – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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The Crate Pumpkins – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

 

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Cute Little Pumpkin – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Found Two Great Pumpkins – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Help Needed – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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The Pumpkin Master – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Jon’s Pumpkin – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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The Perfect Pumpkins Are Picked – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Trouble – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Jon Watching The Turkey Race – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Climbing Hay – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Hay, Girl – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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At The Bottom of The Hay Slide – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Jon In A Corn Maze – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Down Into The Corn – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Tattered Corn Blade – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Corn Stalk – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

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Nice Day At The Farm – Syracuse, UT – Fujifilm X100F

 

Yashica Y35 – Why This Is & Isn’t A Good Idea & How It Relates To Fujifilm

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Yashica Rangefinder & Fujicolor Film – Fujifilm X100F Classic Chrome

Yashica used to make 35mm and medium-format film cameras. From the 1950’s through the 1980’s Yashica was a popular brand. They are perhaps best known for introducing the first electronically controlled camera, the Electro 35, in 1965.

Yashica has long been out of business, but the brand is being revived with a brand-new digital camera with a twist. The Yashica Y35, which is being crowdfunded, will come out next year. The twist? You have to load “film cartridges” into your digital camera, and the camera will not allow you to take the next picture until you have advanced to the next frame via a lever on top.

What I like about the Y35 is the vintage styling that looks a lot like their old Electro 35 or even the Minister-D. Vintage styling is one thing I like about the Fujifilm X100F, too. I also like that they are using “film simulations” albeit in a little different way than Fuji. I like that the camera is a manual camera.

To use different “film simulations” you have to buy and insert a fake film cartridge into the camera. You have four choices: ISO 1600 color, ISO 400 B&W, ISO 200 color, and ISO 200 color square. I like the idea, but would like a few more options. Maybe they have plans for more in the future, who knows.

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35mm Film & Yashica Rangefinder – Fujifilm X-E1 Astia

You have to “advance the film” in order to take the next shot, which might not be a bad thing. It helps prevent “spray and pray” and generally anything that slows you down can be good if you use the extra time to better compose the scene. The only other control is shutter speed (you have five options between 1 second and 1/500). You control the ISO with the “film” choice and the aperture is fixed at f/2.8. The camera’s focal-length is 35mm-equivalent. It is manual-focus-only, and there is a built-in viewfinder. There is no LCD on the back (a good thing, in my opinion).

What I don’t like is the sensor. It’s a 14-megapixel 1/3.2” CMOS, which isn’t even as large as some cellphones. You can expect a noisy image with a small dynamic range. That’s really too bad, because it seems like an interesting idea otherwise. Maybe they will make a larger-sensor version in the future (1″ maybe?).

The camera isn’t that expensive. It’s only $150 for the camera and four “films” if you join their crowdfunding effort, which expires in a few hours, otherwise you can expect to pay a little more in April when the camera comes out. I think it is probably more of a toy camera for kids than anything serious, but that doesn’t mean it won’t be fun.

How does all this relate to Fujifilm? I would like to see Fuji offer a camera similar to the X100F without an LCD and without auto-focus, just manual only. Maybe in the $500-600 range. I would also like Fujifilm to develop new film simulations and offer them as downloads. You choose which films you want and don’t want. I think that’s a great idea.