Streaming Light Through the Mountains – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 400
When Fujifilm first introduced the fifth-generation of X-series cameras, I spent some time updated fourth-generation Film Simulation Recipes for the new models. There are several small differences in how fourth and fifth generation cameras render images, most notably how deeply blue is on the Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulations. It’s an easy fix: if a fourth-generation Recipe uses one of those four film sims, reduce Color Chrome FX Blue by one (Weak instead of Strong; Off instead of Weak) on the fifth-generation camera. Or don’t make that adjustment, because you might not notice the difference anyway, and you’re perfectly happy with the results.
After republishing a number of “old” Recipes for use on the new cameras, I began to receive some feedback: stop rehashing existing Recipes. “You’re just publishing ones you’ve already made,” is one example. So I stopped. There are about 100 Recipes that I could do this with (make an X-Trans V version of an X-Trans IV Recipe). Not only would that take a lot of time to accomplish, but it would end up constituting most of the Recipes published for a couple of years. In other words, I totally get why some people would get annoyed by it. Still, there are a lot of fourth-generation Recipes that people want to use on their fifth-generation cameras.
Uptown at Sunset – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 400
One such Recipe is Kodak Portra 400, which is quite popular. Although I prefer Kodak Portra 400 v2 just a little more (that’s just my personal taste), which I did make an X-Trans V version of, I still really like this one and use it sometimes. I never did make a fifth-generation version of Kodak Portra 400, though; however, the Recipe can be used on the new cameras simply by either 1) leaving the Recipe as-is and accepting the results for what they are (which is nearly the same), or 2) do what I do, and adjust Color Chrome FX Blue to Off instead of Weak. There are a lot of people with newer models that have no idea that they can use the Kodak Portra 400 Recipe.
In other words, if you have a fifth-generation camera, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III (plus the GFX100 II, GFX100S II, and GFX100RF), you can use any fourth-generation Recipe—if it calls for Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, or Eterna Bleach Bypass, simply adjust Color Chrome FX Blue down one position (or don’t make that adjustment, it’s ok if you don’t). Even though I didn’t make an updated version specifically for the new cameras, the Recipe is still available for you to use. So, if you have a newer model, take a look at the X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipes, because your next favorite might be found there, just waiting to be discovered.
A question that I get asked a lot is whether or not a certain Fujifilm camera model is X-Trans IV or X-Trans V. Mostly, this is about the X-S20, X-M5, and X-T30 III, but not exclusively. In the months that followed each of those three releases, I would get a lot of questions along the lines of, “I see that you list the X-S20 as X-Trans V but it has an X-Trans IV sensor, so which is it?”
For the most part, Fujifilm generations have been defined by the sensor. There were certainly some exceptions, but those were rare enough that you could say (for example) X-Trans III and everyone would know what you’re talking about, and there was no confusion. With the latest generation, though, it’s a little more muddy, because the X-S20, X-M5, and X-T30 III cameras have an X-Trans IV sensor paired with the X-Processor 5. So are they X-Trans IV or X-Trans V? Yes, they are.
Because of this confusion, I started saying “fourth-generation” as a synonym to X-Trans IV and “fifth-generation” as a synonym to X-Trans V. Even though the X-S20, X-M5, and X-T30 III cameras have an X-Trans IV sensor, they are fifth-generation models, and not fourth. That simple change in language clears it up significantly. However, I’m not going to edit years and years of articles to reflect this change (that would be quite the task!), so the confusion still lingers.
Whether or not those three cameras are fourth-generation or fifth-generation only matters for Film Simulation Recipes, and not much else. Does someone with the X-T30 III use X-Trans IV Recipes or X-Trans V Recipes? I think it’s perfectly fine to say either will work; however, the most correct answer is X-Trans V. Why? Because the X-T30 III, despite the sensor, has the JPEG options and JPEG rendering of fifth-generation models, and not fourth. The difference in how the X-T30 III will render a picture compared to the X-T30 II when using the same Film Simulation is very minor; the largest difference is how deeply blue is rendered on Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass, which you might not care about or even notice. So the short answer is to use X-Trans V Recipes on the X-S20, X-M5, and X-T30 III; however, you’re perfectly fine to use X-Trans IV Recipes if you want. If the X-Trans IV Recipe uses one of those four Film Simulations, I recommend dropping Color Chrome FX Blue by one (Weak instead of Strong; Off instead of Weak).
Fourth-generation Fujifilm cameras are the X-T3, X-T30, X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. While the X-T3 and X-T30 are technically fourth-generation, they are (unfortunately) on an island by themselves when it comes to Recipes, having more in common with third-generation models than their fellow fourth-generation cameras that came afterwards. Fifth-generation models are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III. It’s possible that Fujifilm could release another fifth-generation camera, but I believe that the X-T30 III is the last one, and the sixth-generation will arrive sometime later this year.
I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With over 350 in the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each Recipe should be chosen, especially since many of them are specifically intended for sunny daylight conditions. With only seven Custom Presets on your Fujifilm camera (for most of you, anyway), which ones should you have programed? When should you select them?
The problem with trying to answer this question is that it’s a highly subjective endeavor. While I might like a certain Recipe for a particular situation, you might not. There’s not a right or wrong answer, just what works for you and what doesn’t—and I cannot say whether any particular Recipe will work for you or not. Only you can answer that for yourself, and you have to try a Recipe to know. With that said, I do attempt to give good advice. I’ve written many articles related to this topic, including the series Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? While that has likely been the most helpful, it’s nearly two-years-old now, and a lot of new Recipes have been published since. I think it’s time to update the series for 2024.
The premise of the original series is that Jason Kummerfeldt of Grainydays, a YouTube channel about film photography, gave some advice on when to use which film emulsion in a video entitled Which Film Stock, When? Since film choice is such a personal thing, how do you say when to use which? It’s the same thing for Film Simulation Recipes. His solution was simply to demonstrate what he uses and state what he likes, and maybe you’ll like it, too. In my series, I copied that approach for Recipes—I told you my preferences, and invited you to try them out. We’re going to follow that same formula for this update with just a small twist, which I think makes a little more sense.
Below are seven Recipe suggestions for you to program into C1-C7 on your Fujifilm camera, with advice on when to use each. Since Recipes are (for the most part) generationally specific, each article will cover a different group of cameras. This is Part 2, and covers X-Trans IV models (except the X-T3 and X-T30, which will be discussed in Part 3): Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II.
Kodak Portra 400 v2 does well anytime during daylight hours, but especially for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. As the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but is excellent for many genres. This really could be your primary use-all-of-the-time Recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1. Personally, I use this one frequently.
Golden Desert Hill – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Bright Kodak
I like to reserve C2 for bright midday photography. The old rule of thumb was once the sun was high in the sky, it’s time to put the camera away. While Bright Kodak can be used anytime the sun is out, it is one of my favorite options for middle-of-the-day situations, and proves the old adage wrong.
Denny’s Days – Beaver, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodachrome 64
This is a good spot to have an alternative aesthetic compared to C1 and C2—as I don’t think you’d want to have all three up to this point to be essentially similar. Although each of the first three have a Kodak-like look, Kodachrome 64 produces a more contrasty slide film aesthetic. With the ones I’ve suggested, you’ve got a good set for all sorts of daylight situations no matter your subject.
Ice Flower & Chain Link – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues
Pacific Blues is excellent for sunny daylight photography—it was specifically designed for a summer day at the beach—but I have fallen in love with it for overcast and foggy days. For dreary conditions, this Recipe is hard to beat.
I like to have at least one Recipe programmed into my camera that’s highly versatile and can be used no matter the situation. There are several excellent options, but a personal favorite that I use frequently is Reggie’s Portra. Almost no matter the light, this one does very well.
11th Street – Astoria, OR – Fujifilm X100V – Serr’s 500T
Most Recipes are intended for sunny daylight; while some can still do well at night, and the versatile options above are definitely good for after-dark, there are some Recipes that are specifically intended for night photography. Of those, Serr’s 500T is one of my absolute favorites.
Old Window Blinds – San Luis Obispo, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
I love black-and-white photography. As far as Recipes go, the monochrome options tend to be less popular than color; however, my favorite Recipe—and the one that I would choose if I could only ever photograph with one—is Kodak Tri-X 400.
Morning at the South Rim – Grand Canyon NP, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – McCurry Kodachrome
I received an email from Anders Lindborg back in November, and the subject line read, “The Last Roll.” Anders explained to me that himself and John Sevigny had co-created a Kodachrome 64 Film Simulation Recipe based on Steve McCurry’s last roll of Kodachrome film, which was (as you likely know) famously developed on July 12, 2010, at Dwayne’s Photo in Parsons, Kansas.
Writing this article has been difficult for me, because of John’s passing. But I hope that this is somehow honoring to him. He was an extraordinarily knowledgable photographer who was always eager to help. It’s a humble privilege for me to share with all of you this Recipe that Anders and John co-created.
“The goal was to create a recipe that both looked and behaved like Kodachrome 64,” Anders wrote. “It should also be based on science, not just trying to look like the real thing during very special conditions. Our starting reference were the photos taken by Steve McCurry on the quite-famous last roll of Kodachrome project. We also studied every little detail of the documentary to find out the exact conditions for how the photos were made. Even that was not enough, so we started to hunt down every single Kodachrome 64 photo we could possibly find. Luck was on our side, as we managed to locate a whole bunch that were actually developed by Dwayne’s Photo.”
Anders continued, “After about eight months of testing every single scenario we could come up with, using similar lighting equipment that was used for the last roll project, we started to feel like we had done all that was possible with the given tools. Everything matched our reference photos, and we both got stunning results with every test we made, but we still decided to test it for just a bit longer to make sure we actually had captured the true spirit of this film. John also travelled parts of the USA and South America, shooting nothing but this recipe for color work.”
Kodachrome was first introduced in 1935, and was discontinued in 2009. There are three distinct eras of the film, and Kodachrome 64, which was introduced in 1974, was in the third and final era. Kodachrome was actually a black-and-white film, and the color dyes were added during the development process. Because of this, it is probably the most difficult film to scan, and, if not properly color corrected, will often have a pronounced blue cast. Even a scan that is carefully corrected can lean slightly blue compared to the slide being projected or viewed on a light table. McCurry’s “last roll” slides were scanned by Richard Jackson, who was regarded as a leading expert on Kodachrome scanning.
Kodachrome 64 slides on a light table – Fujifilm X100V – McCurry Kodachrome
There are some differences between this McCurry Kodachrome Recipe and my Kodachrome 64 Recipe, but there are also a lot of similarities. My Recipe is more like Kodachrome as viewed via a slide projector or light table, while the McCurry Kodachrome Recipe is more like quality scans of the film. There’s a comparison of the two Recipes at the very bottom of this article.
Like the actual film, this McCurry Kodachrome Recipe has a narrow dynamic range, and must be carefully exposed. Pay extra attention to the highlights, because they can clip easily. Also, try to keep the ISO as low as practical. I used this Recipe with the ISO all the way to 6400, and it was fine, but for best results that better match the film, don’t go above ISO 1600. McCurry Kodachrome is fully compatible with all X-Trans IV models—including the X-T3 and X-T30; for X-Trans V, blues will render slightly more deeply, so the results will be just a tad different, but feel free to try anyway.
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR100 Grain Effect: Weak, Small — Weak for X-T3/X-T30 Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off — N/A for X-T3/X-T30 White Balance: 5900K, -1 Red & +4 Blue Highlight: 0 Shadow: 0 Color: +2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -2 Clarity: 0 — N/A for X-T3/X-T30 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 1600 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photos, all camera made JPEGs using this McCurry Kodachrome Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T30:
Siblings Playing Video Games – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Little Palms in a Pot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Promenade – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Broken Haircut Chair – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Bougainvillea Below Window – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Bougainvillea & Stucco – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Blossom Along Sidewalk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Sunny Day Along Suburban Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T30
Suburban Desert Sunset – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Sunset Over Desert Brush – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Golden Coast Blossoms – Laguna Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V
Comparison:
Kodachrome 64 Film Simulation Recipe (Fujifilm X-E4)
McCurry Kodachrome Film Simulation Recipe (Fujifilm X-E4)
Kodachrome 64 Film Simulation Recipe (Fujifilm X-E4)
McCurry Kodachrome Film Simulation Recipe (Fujifilm X-E4)
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Summer is here! Traveling, camping, visits to the beach, boating on the lake, and stuff like that are common during these months. Perhaps you are looking for some Film Simulation Recipe recommendations for your Fujifilm camera for the summer season. I thought I’d take this opportunity to revisit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When? series of articles. This post will make a lot more sense if you’ve read the original series—especially the first article—so be sure to take a look at it if you haven’t yet (or if it’s been awhile and you don’t remember).
This Part 1 is for Fujifilm X-Trans IV cameras, except for the X-T3 and X-T30, which will be covered in a different section. If you have an X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II model, I invite you to give these Recipes a try! There are seven suggestions below—one for each C1-C7 Custom Preset—and three alternative ideas for each in case you don’t like the first recommendation. Each Custom Preset slot serves a specific purpose, so you should have a good Recipe option programmed into your camera no matter the subject or lighting. This group of seven isn’t necessarily better or worse than my original recommendations, just a different set chosen specifically for the summer months.
Golden Lake – Culleoka, TX – Fujifilm X-E4 – Fujicolor Natura 1600 Recipe
Fujicolor Natura 1600 is a Film Simulation Recipe that does well at anytime during daylight hours—and it’s one of my all-time favorites—but I’m going to recommend it specifically for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. If you like the aesthetic, this really could be your primary use-all-of-the-time recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1, but when the sun is low to the horizon, this is one I definitely recommend shooting with. I personally use this recipe frequently.
Coastal Blooms – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues Recipe
Pacific Blues is another one that could be your go-to everyday-use Recipe, but specifically I want to suggest it for daytime (non-“golden hour”) photography. Obviously it can also be used for when the sun is low to the horizon, too, which it excels at, but I think it is an excellent option for when the sun is not low—from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. It’s especially well suited for a day at the beach.
Cienega Bridge on Old Highway 80 – Vail, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – Urban Dreams Recipe
If it’s thick overcast and rainy, the Urban Dreams Recipe is surprisingly an excellent option. Yes, it’s pretty good in daylight, too (even “golden hour” and at night), but give it a try on drab overcast days—I think you’ll really appreciate just how well it does in that situation.
Watch and Jewelry – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V – Nostalgic Negative Recipe
For natural-light indoor photography, a good option is the Nostalgic Negative Recipe. This is another great all-rounder that could be used in pretty much any daytime situation and produce excellent results, but specifically I’m recommending it for natural-light indoor pictures. For artificial-light indoor images, use the Recipe for nighttime photography below.
Alternative for “natural-light indoor” photography:
Brad’s – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pure Negative Recipe
If it’s after dark, an excellent option for nighttime or artificial light photography is Pure Negative. This is a low-contrast Recipe with a natural rendering, which makes it especially ideal for high contrast scenes, particularly during midday light; however, it also does quite well in the darkness between sunset and sunrise and in indoor artificial light situations.
The C6 slot is a bonus, and the Vibrant Arizona Recipe is a solid option to fill it with—and it’s one of the most popular Recipes right now. If you didn’t want to use Vibrant Arizona, you could instead select your favorite “alternative” Recipe from C1-C5 above, or use one below.
The newest black-and-white Film Simulation Recipe is Kodak T-Max P3200, and it has quickly become one of my favorites! If you don’t want to use this one, definitely give Kodak Tri-X 400 a try.
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I purchased the Fujifilm X-T5 specifically to try the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, then, after using it, I discovered Nostalgic Neg. has a lot in common with Eterna. I initially stated that the new film simulation is as if Classic Chrome and Eterna had a baby—it has some similarities to both—but it is more like Eterna than Classic Chrome. If a Nostalgic Neg. recipe calls for minus Color, it’s possible to fairly closely approximate it with Eterna. One difference is that Nostalgic Neg. has more warmth and vibrancy in the shadows, which is unique to the new film simulation, but otherwise you can get pretty close.
This Film Simulation Recipe is a facsimile of Timeless Negative for X-Trans V cameras, using Eterna instead of the Nostalgic Neg., as only the latest cameras have the new film simulation. I think many of you are going to like it because it produces very lovely images in a variety of situations. It’s great for daylight, nighttime, golden hour, overcast, indoor, portraits, landscapes, etc., etc.. Once you program this one into your camera, you might not ever replace it, since it does so well in a lot of scenarios.
This version of Timeless Negative is intended for the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. You can use this on X-Trans V cameras, too, if you want (although I would suggest the recipe with Nostalgic Neg.) by setting Color Chrome FX Blue to Off. For the X-T3, X-T30, if you ignore Grain size, Color Chrome FX Blue, and Clarity (or, even better, use a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter in lieu of Clarity), you’ll still get similar results, but it will look slightly different (give it a try anyway). I am currently working on a Nostalgic Neg.-like recipe for the X-T3 and X-T30 (and possibly the X-H1, too); if you are a Fuji X Weekly App Patron, there is an Early-Access Recipe (actually, two) called Vintage Eterna that unintentionally has some similarities to Nostalgic Neg., and I invite you to give that a try, too.
Eterna Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +1 Shadow: -1 Color: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: 0 Clarity: -2 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto, +4 Red & -5 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Timeless Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:
Candle – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Drab Pink Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Rainy Day Lightbulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Joyful Corridor – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Coffee, Waiting – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Dear Santa – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Oh Christmas Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
North Pole Post – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Saint Nicholas – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Metalic Pinecone – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Oleander Evening – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Downtown Dusk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Color Transparencies – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Night Lights – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
O Tannenbaum – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Green Leaf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Aslan – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Upward Abstract – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Palm Sky Vapor – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Autumn Gold – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Transition – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Bougainvillea & Changing Weather – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Bougainvillea in Autumn – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
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Thomas told me that this “Pure Negative” recipe is basically a modification of his X-Trans I Kodachrome II recipe for use on X-Trans IV cameras. Because X-Trans I doesn’t have Classic Chrome, Thomas used the PRO Neg. Std film simulation to emulate a Kodachrome aesthetic as best as possible, and his recipe does a good job of that for the X-Pro1 and X-E1 cameras. There are already several excellent Kodachrome options for X-Trans IV; this recipe isn’t intended to replicate Kodachrome, but instead produce good natural-looking results—perhaps there is a little unintentional Kodachrome 25 resemblance, too. Thank you, Thomas, for creating this recipe and allowing me to share it on Fuji X Weekly!
This Film Simulation Recipe is a great general-purpose option. It’s very versatile, delivering excellent results in a variety of situations. The only modification that I made to Thomas’ recipe is Dynamic Range: he prefers DR-Auto, but I set it to DR200. That’s not a big change, as DR-Auto chooses DR200 whenever there is bright highlights in the frame. Select whichever you prefer—either DR-Auto or DR200 is fine. For the Fujifilm X-T3 and X-T30 cameras, ignore Grain size and use a 5% CineBloom in lieu of Clarity (or just ignore Clarity)—the results will be similar. For X-Trans III, you’ll additionally have to ignore Color Chrome Effect, since your camera doesn’t have it. This recipe should be fully compatible with the new X-H2s, although I have not tested it to know for certain.
PRO Neg. Std Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +1 Shadow: +2 Color: -4 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: +1 Clarity: -2 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -2 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Pure Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X-E4:
Bougainvillea Branch – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
One Blossom Remains – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Prickly Pear – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Arching Palms – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4
Veiled Wasatch – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Pismo – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Brad’s – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Turbulent Waters – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Wave Rider – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Surfer – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Standing on Water – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
Golden Ocean – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X-E4
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I was asked to create a film simulation recipe for AgfaChrome RS 100 color transparency film. Agfa made this slide film from 1984 through 1995, with an “improved emulsion” released in 1992. I never used AgfaChrome RS 100, so I have zero experience with the film. It was difficult to find examples of, and old issues of Popular Photography and Photographic magazines were my best resource. Despite the challenges, I was able to create a film simulation recipe that I’m very happy with.
This AgfaChrome RS 100 recipe renders pictures beautifully! It has a great vintage analog feel to it. People might think that the images are old film pictures that you scanned, and they certainly won’t suspect that they’re straight-out-of-camera JPEGs! I’m confident that this recipe will be an instant favorite for many of you.
Flower Garden – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – “AgfaChrome RS 100”
Because this X-Trans IV recipe requires Classic Negative, Clarity, and Color Chrome FX Blue, it’s only compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10 and X-E4 cameras—unfortunately it’s not compatible with the X-T3 and X-T30. I believe that it is compatible with the GFX100S, although results will likely be slightly different. If you have a compatible camera, be sure to give this AgfaChrome RS 100 recipe a try!
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +1 Shadow: -1 Color: +2 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: -2 Clarity: -3 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome Effect Blue: Strong White Balance: Daylight, -3 Red & +5 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “AgfaChrome RS 100” film simulation recipe on my X100V and X-E4:
Bowl on a Shelf – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Parking Garage – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Below Deck Parking – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Smile – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V
Little Dragon – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Free People – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Towering Cloud – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Drive Slow, But Don’t Park – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Checkerboard – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Patagonia – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Green Grapes – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Blackberries – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Pink Among Green – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Little Cherries – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Permission to Park – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
One Way – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Honey Bucket & Trailer – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
We Are Open – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Park City Downtown – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
Buildings in Downtown Park City – Park City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4
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Mesa Trail – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
I already have a Velvia film simulation recipe. I’ve been using it for about a year-and-a-half now and I like the recipe. It’s designed for X-Trans III cameras. With the Fujifilm X-T30, which has the new sensor and processor, including the new Color Chrome Effect, I decided to revisit Velvia. Can I make Velvia better on an X-Trans IV camera?
I don’t know if this recipe is better than the old one. It’s a little bolder with slightly more contrast and color saturation. It’s probably a little more accurate to Velvia 100 than the old recipe, and a tad closer to Velvia 50, too. I do like this recipe more than the original, but the old one has its place, too. I don’t think this replaces the old recipe, but more supplements it when the situation calls for something punchier.
Red Mesa – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
I have grain effect set to weak on this recipe, but I only like to have grain on when using ISO 1600 or below. Above that the digital noise acts as a grain effect, so I like to turn the grain effect off when working with higher ISOs. Depending on the image, +4 color can sometimes look better, so don’t be afraid to bump that up when needed, but I think +3 works best as the standard setting. This recipe has a stronger shadow setting than the old one, and if you find that there’s too much contrast, simply set Shadow to 0. The original Velvia recipe called for DR200, but I went with DR-Auto on this one. If you’d prefer to use DR200 instead of auto, feel free to do so.
Velvia Dynamic Range: DR-Auto Highlight: 0 Shadow: +1 Color: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpening: +2 Grain Effect: Weak Color Chrome Effect: Strong White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -1 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs, captured using a Fujifilm X-T30 with this film simulation recipe:
Rock Balanced – Arches NP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
North Window Arch – Arches NP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
Red Hill – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
Castles To The Sky – Castle Valley, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
Water & Stone – Moab, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
Cactus Noon – Moab, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
Dead Tree Point – Dead Horse Point, SP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
Desert River – Dead Horse Point SP, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
Peak Through The Thin Clouds – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
Sunset Red Mountain – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Velvia
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