A question that I get asked a lot is whether or not a certain Fujifilm camera model is X-Trans IV or X-Trans V. Mostly, this is about the X-S20, X-M5, and X-T30 III, but not exclusively. In the months that followed each of those three releases, I would get a lot of questions along the lines of, “I see that you list the X-S20 as X-Trans V but it has an X-Trans IV sensor, so which is it?”
For the most part, Fujifilm generations have been defined by the sensor. There were certainly some exceptions, but those were rare enough that you could say (for example) X-Trans III and everyone would know what you’re talking about, and there was no confusion. With the latest generation, though, it’s a little more muddy, because the X-S20, X-M5, and X-T30 III cameras have an X-Trans IV sensor paired with the X-Processor 5. So are they X-Trans IV or X-Trans V? Yes, they are.
Because of this confusion, I started saying “fourth-generation” as a synonym to X-Trans IV and “fifth-generation” as a synonym to X-Trans V. Even though the X-S20, X-M5, and X-T30 III cameras have an X-Trans IV sensor, they are fifth-generation models, and not fourth. That simple change in language clears it up significantly. However, I’m not going to edit years and years of articles to reflect this change (that would be quite the task!), so the confusion still lingers.
Whether or not those three cameras are fourth-generation or fifth-generation only matters for Film Simulation Recipes, and not much else. Does someone with the X-T30 III use X-Trans IV Recipes or X-Trans V Recipes? I think it’s perfectly fine to say either will work; however, the most correct answer is X-Trans V. Why? Because the X-T30 III, despite the sensor, has the JPEG options and JPEG rendering of fifth-generation models, and not fourth. The difference in how the X-T30 III will render a picture compared to the X-T30 II when using the same Film Simulation is very minor; the largest difference is how deeply blue is rendered on Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass, which you might not care about or even notice. So the short answer is to use X-Trans V Recipes on the X-S20, X-M5, and X-T30 III; however, you’re perfectly fine to use X-Trans IV Recipes if you want. If the X-Trans IV Recipe uses one of those four Film Simulations, I recommend dropping Color Chrome FX Blue by one (Weak instead of Strong; Off instead of Weak).
Fourth-generation Fujifilm cameras are the X-T3, X-T30, X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. While the X-T3 and X-T30 are technically fourth-generation, they are (unfortunately) on an island by themselves when it comes to Recipes, having more in common with third-generation models than their fellow fourth-generation cameras that came afterwards. Fifth-generation models are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, X-T50, X-M5, X-E5, and X-T30 III. It’s possible that Fujifilm could release another fifth-generation camera, but I believe that the X-T30 III is the last one, and the sixth-generation will arrive sometime later this year.
I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With over 350 in the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each Recipe should be chosen, especially since many of them are specifically intended for sunny daylight conditions. With only seven Custom Presets on your Fujifilm camera (for most of you, anyway), which ones should you have programed? When should you select them?
The problem with trying to answer this question is that it’s a highly subjective endeavor. While I might like a certain Recipe for a particular situation, you might not. There’s not a right or wrong answer, just what works for you and what doesn’t—and I cannot say whether any particular Recipe will work for you or not. Only you can answer that for yourself, and you have to try a Recipe to know. With that said, I do attempt to give good advice. I’ve written many articles related to this topic, including the series Which Film Simulation Recipes, When? While that has likely been the most helpful, it’s nearly two-years-old now, and a lot of new Recipes have been published since. I think it’s time to update the series for 2024.
Red Rock at Sundown – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50 – Reala Ace Recipe
The premise of the original series is that Jason Kummerfeldt of Grainydays, a YouTube channel about film photography, gave some advice on when to use which film emulsion in a video entitled Which Film Stock, When? Since film choice is such a personal thing, how do you say when to use which? It’s the same thing for Film Simulation Recipes. His solution was simply to demonstrate what he uses and state what he likes, and maybe you’ll like it too. In my series, I copied that approach for Recipes—I told you my preferences, and invited you to try them too. We’re going to follow that same formula for this update with just a small twist, which I think makes a little more sense.
Below are seven Recipe suggestions for you to program into C1-C7 on your Fujifilm camera, with advice on when to use each. Since Recipes are (for the most part) generationally specific, each article will cover a different group of cameras. Part 1 is X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, and X-T50. You can use these Recipes on the latest GFX cameras; however, they will render slightly differently (try them anyway).
Motor Hotel – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Portra 400 v2
Kodak Portra 400 v2 does well anytime during daylight hours, but especially for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. As the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but is excellent for many genres. This really could be your primary use-all-of-the-time Recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1. Personally, I use this one frequently.
I like to reserve C2 for bright midday photography. The old rule of thumb was once the sun was high in the sky, it’s time to put the camera away. While Vibrant Arizona can be used anytime the sun is out (also, try it at dusk and dawn), it is my favorite option for middle-of-the-day situations, and proves the old adage wrong.
Rainbows over Philly – Philadelphia, PA – Fujifilm X100VI – Fujicolor Film
This is a good spot to have an alternative aesthetic compared to C1 and C2—as I don’t think you’d want to have all three up to this point to be essentially similar—and the Fujicolor Film Recipe provides exactly that. With the ones I’ve suggested, you’ve got a good set for all sorts of daylight situations no matter your subject.
Pacific Blues is excellent for sunny daylight photography—it was specifically designed for a summer day at the beach—but I have fallen in love with it for overcast and foggy days. For dreary conditions, this Recipe is hard to beat.
Mountain Pines at Sunset – Flagstaff, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Reala Ace
I like to have at least one Recipe programmed into my camera that’s highly versatile and can be used no matter the situation. There are several excellent options, but my personal favorite is the Reala Ace Recipe (which, incidentally, uses Classic Negative and not the new Reala Ace film sim).
Most Recipes are intended for sunny daylight; while some can still do well at night, and the versatile options above are definitely good for after-dark, there are some Recipes that are specifically intended for night photography. Of those, CineStill 800T is my top recommendation.
I love black-and-white photography. As far as Recipes go, the monochrome options tend to be less popular than color; however, my favorite Recipe—and the one that I choose if I could only ever photograph with one—is Kodak Tri-X 400.
Oysters & Seafood – Denver, CO – Fujifilm X-T50 – Film Dial “Cinematic Film”
Whether or not you have a Fujifilm X-T50, you can program the universal Film Dial Recipe into your IQ Menu as a bonus option (explained here). With the X-T50, the Film Dial allows you to achieve up to 12 different looks (essentially 12 bonus Recipes); with other cameras, program one of the FN buttons to activate the Film Simulation submenu, and you can achieve up to 14 different looks (14 bonus Recipes). This adds a ton of versatility to your camera.
Travel by Train – Denver, CO – Fujifilm X-T50 – Cinematic Film Recipe
Like film, the majority of Film Simulation Recipes are intended for daylight photography, and it can be difficult to know which ones are good for nighttime use. Once the sun goes down and the street lamps begin to glow, some of the Recipes that are great for sunny conditions won’t produce particularly good results. Which ones should you use instead? Well, I’ve got you covered!
In this article I have 10 Recipe suggestions for nighttime photography. Each exact lighting scenario is different, and everyone has their own unique style, so not all of these will necessarily be for everyone; however, if it’s after-dark, at least one of these 10 should work quite well for you. Also, there are a lot of other Recipes not in this list that could potentially give you good results—in other words, this is not comprehensive in the least; mostly, I just wanted to include a variety of options. Don’t be afraid to try a Recipe not in this list for night pictures, but, if you are at a loss for which one to use after-dark, try one of the options below.
Oysters & Seafood – Denver, CO – Fujifilm X-T50 – Cinematic Film Recipe
This is one of the 14 Film Dial Recipes made for the Fujifilm X-T50, but it’s not limited to use on that camera. It’s compatible with all fifth-generation models; for the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II, simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off. This is such an excellent Recipe for after-dark photography, and is at the top of my suggestion list for a reason. Also, many of the other Film Dial Recipes also do quite well at night, so don’t be afraid to try those, too.
This is another personal favorite for nighttime photography—in fact, it’s specifically intended for this purpose. There are also versions for X-Trans IV, X-Trans III, and X-Trans II cameras. This Recipe pairs especially well with a weak diffusion filter, such as a 5% or 10% CineBloom or 1/8 or 1/4 Pro Mist.
This version of CineStill 800T was actually intended for daytime photography, but works particularly well at night. It’s more of an alternative-process type rendering, but can be a lot of fun. There are also two versions for X-Trans IV cameras (here and here).
Birria – Surprise, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fluorescent Night Recipe
Under the right lighting situation, this Recipe can look really good; however, it’s not necessarily a versatile nighttime option. It definitely needs artificial light, preferably some fluorescent tubes. You might love it, or you might not, but you won’t know until you try.
PARK – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Agfa Ultra 100 v2 Recipe
This Recipe is for sunny daylight, but I was quite surprised at some of my nighttime results. I don’t think it will be good for every after-dark situation, but it is certainly good for some, particularly blue-hour light.
Boat Shack at Sunset – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2 Recipe
This is a versatile Recipe that works really well for nighttime photography. This is a great one just to always have programmed into your camera. There’s a version for X-Trans IV.
This Recipe uses Classic Negative (not the new Reala Ace film sim). It’s very versatile, and as such works well for nighttime photography. It’s another Recipe that you can just always have programmed into your camera.
This Recipe uses the new Reala Ace film simulation. It’s not specifically intended for nighttime photography, but is versatile, and works quite well for it.
Pulaski Bridge View – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X100VI – PRO Negative 160C Recipe
Another Reala Ace-based Recipe, and another that is great for night simply due to its versatility. As Fujifilm put it, Reala Ace is the “Negative for the new era.”
Veterans Bridge at Night – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T50 – Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe
Like Cinematic Film at the top, this is one of the 14 Film Dial Recipes. Many of the Film Dial Recipes are great for nighttime photography—not just the two in this list—but some are better than others, and Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm is one of my personal favorites.
Salt River & Mountain Reflection – Mesa, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Astia Azure Recipe
Since I included two of the Film Dial Recipes in the Top 10, I thought that it would be more fair to add an 11th Recipe. Astia Azure is intended for sunny daylight photography, but I’ve had good luck with it after-dark, particularly in blue-hour light. This is currently a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe, and is only available to App subscribers at this time; however, it will eventually be made available to everyone. It’s compatible with X-Trans V cameras, and some X-Trans IV models.
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This is Part 1 of what will be a series of articles on this topic. I actually attempted to do this back in the summer, but got sidetracked, and never made it beyond the first post. So those with an X-Trans V camera get a little bonus. My hope is to make it all the way through X-Trans I, so if you have an older model, don’t worry—we’ll get to your camera soon.
The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for X-Trans V cameras. If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.
Left the Lights On – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fluorescent Night
An important side note here: this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases, such as sunny daylight, so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Be sure to visit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?for a more comprehensive list of options for various use cases.
This list is specifically for X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20. The X-S20 is a bit controversial to be included here because it has an X-Trans IV sensor paired with the X-Trans V processor, but since it seems to render more similar to X-Trans V than X-Trans IV, and has the X-Trans V JPEG options, it is included in this list. Also, use this list for the upcoming X100V successor, once it comes out (in February or March, most likely). Next up in this series is X-Trans IV.
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-Trans V camera first:
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I get asked somewhat regularly which Film Simulation Recipes one should try first. Perhaps you just purchased your first Fujifilm camera, or maybe you’ve had one for awhile but have never tried Recipes before—with so many to choose from (there are now 300 Film Simulation Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App!), it can be hard to know where to start. Which Recipes are essential to program into your camera right away?
Everyone has their own tastes and style, so what one person might love another might not. That’s why it’s great to have such a wide variety to choose from—there’s bound to be at least a few that you’ll appreciate. Options are good up until the point where there are too many, and it becomes difficult to decide. I don’t want you to be paralyzed by choices, so let me suggest seven to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets first. You might love all of them, or you might find that only one or two suit you well. Either way, these are ones that you should definitely try.
This will be a series of articles. The first one, which you are reading now, is for X-Trans V models, and I’ll work my way through the other sensors in the parts to come. If you have a Fujifilm X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, or X-S20, I invite you to program the Film Simulation Recipes below into your camera.
There are a couple of special notes about the X-S20. First, it has an X-Trans IV sensor but an X-Trans V processor, so it’s a bit iffy if it should be included in this list or with the X-Trans IV cameras; however, reports I have received indicate that, due to its rendering and options, it best fits in the X-Trans V category. Second, the X-S20 has only four custom presets and not seven, so pick the four below that are the most intriguing to you, and once you’ve had a chance to try those, then replace your least favorite with another from this list.
Without further ado, let’s take a look at seven Film Simulation Recipes to program into your Fujifilm X-Trans V camera first!
Kodachrome 64 was a classic slide film, and it’s become a classic Film Simulation Recipe. It’s very popular, and it would be a shame to not include it—in fact, I put it first for a reason. This is one of those Recipes that everyone should try! It produces a retro 1970’s through 1990’s slide film aesthetic reminiscent of the pictures found on the pages of magazines like National Geographic. For best results use in sunny daylight; however, it can be decent in other situations, too, like overcast, shade, and blue hour.
This Recipe mimics the aesthetic of one of Kodak’s most-loved color negative film stocks: Portra 400. As the name implies, it’s especially well suited for portraits, but it is also good for many genres of photography. Kodak Portra 400 v2 is another Film Simulation Recipe intended for use in sunny daylight situations, and it’s my favorite option for golden hour images.
Fujicolor Super HG v2 produces a 1980’s Fujifilm color negative film vibe, which is notably divergent from the aesthetic of the first two suggested options. Perhaps more importantly, this Recipe is highly versatile, and can be used for almost any subject or light—including overcast, indoor artificial light, and nighttime cityscapes—where some other Recipes might be less than ideal. If you are after one option that can do it all, take a look at this one.
The Pacific Blues Film Simulation Recipe is specifically intended for a sunny summer day at the beach, which it is absolutely incredible for, but it’s surprisingly good for other situations, too. I’ve had great success with it on dreary overcast and foggy days. I’ve used it for portraits. I’ve used it for natural light indoors. It’s definitely not always the best Recipe for a given situation, but it often does quite well, and sometimes the pictures it produces are just stunning.
If you want a vintage vibe from your photographs, 1970’s Summer is for you! It produces a New American Color aesthetic that will transport you back in time 50 or so years. For best results, use in sunny daylight—this is a great option for when the sun is high in-between the two golden hour periods. This Recipe isn’t particularly versatile, but when it works it’s absolutely incredible.
Vibrant Arizona mimics the Wes Anderson look that’s in-style right now. It’s bright, warm, and colorful. This Recipe is intended for use in sunny daylight, especially harsh midday light. It’s not always the best option, but in the right situations it’s wonderful.
It would be a shame not to include a black-and-white Recipe in this list, so we’ll conclude with Kodak T-Max P3200, which is not only a great monochrome option, but is also excellent for high-ISO photography. If the light is getting dim and you need to bump the ISO up a bit, this is a great one to use. Or if you want classic B&W pictures with grain and good contrast, the Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe will produce that for you.
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