I get asked at least once per week which Film Simulation Recipe was used for a picture in the Fuji X Weeklyhomepage gallery. It’s my fault for not telling you. I should have made it much more obvious. Maybe I should make posts with galleries (but actually include the recipes used so that you don’t have to wonder)? If you see a particular picture you like, perhaps you’ll be inspired to try that recipe.
Anyway, this article is simply an explanation of which recipe was used for each picture in the homepage gallery. If you’ve ever wondered, now you know. I’ll probably change out some of the images within the next few weeks, so keep an eye out for that.
For those keeping score, seven of the pictures were captured with a Fujifilm X100V, two were captured with a Fujifilm X-E4, and one each were captured with an X-T30, X-Pro2, and X-T200,
There’s a feature on Fujifilm cameras that I don’t utilize often enough: Film Simulation Bracket. This processes one exposure as three different images, each with a different film simulation applied. You cannot change any other parameters—only the film sim—so you cannot use three different Film Simulation Recipes, only one recipe, but with three film simulations. It would be great if Fujifilm made a Custom Preset Bracket where you could choose three C1-C7 presets to process the exposure with, but that unfortunately doesn’t exist. Another limitation worth noting is that on newer cameras, Film Simulation Bracket disables Clarity, which is a shame.
I already discussed Film Simulation Bracket in a previous Creative Collective article, so I’ll try to take a slightly different approach with this one, and not rehash everything that’s already been said. When is Film Simulation Bracket a useful tool? Read on to find out!
Right Around the Bend – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodak Vericolor Warm”
I wasn’t sure if I should publish this Film Simulation Recipe, but then I thought, why not? Initially, the intention was simply to see how the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation looks with Dynamic Range set to DR100, and how the X-T5 images look at ISO 125, which is the base-ISO of X-Trans V cameras. I didn’t model these settings after any specific film aesthetic; instead, I borrowed the GAF 500 Film Simulation Recipe‘s white balance (modified just a little after a couple test shots), and was also inspired by Kodak Portra 400 and Reggie’s Portra recipes. I wasn’t sure what to expect from this, but I ended up really liking it!
So what does this Film Simulation Recipe most closely resemble? Unintentionally, I think it has some similarities to Kodak Vericolor film. What’s Kodak Vericolor? Originally introduced in 1971 as an ISO 100 professional color negative film, Kodak made two version of Vericolor: NPS (also known as S-Type) for short exposures (Daylight balanced) and NPL (also known as L-Type) for long exposures (Tungsten balanced). Just a few years later Kodak improved the emulsions and in 1974 introduced Vericolor II NPS and NPL, which was also ISO 100. In 1983 Kodak improved the emulsion once again and introduced Vericolor III, which was ISO 160 for NPS and ISO 100 for NPL; however, the NPL version was later spun off as Ektacolor Pro Gold 100T and later Portra 100T, while Vericolor III NPS was renamed Vericolor III 160. Later (sometime in the late-1980’s, although I couldn’t pinpoint a specific year), Kodak introduced a new high-ISO version called Vericolor III 400. Vericolor III 160 and 400 were replaced by Portra 160 and 400 in 1998. This recipe by chance shares a resemblance to Vericolor III 160 or perhaps Vericolor II NPS, but I think it is more warm, and perhaps more like if an 81A Color Correction Filter was used in conjunction with the film, a common technique in the film era, and maybe a CPL filter, too.
This Kodak Vericolor Warm Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. Unless Fujifilm gives X-Trans IV cameras the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, which I doubt they will do, this recipe is only for X-Trans V cameras, and maybe the latest GFX, too; however, consider the Kodak Portra 160, Kodak Portra 400, and Reggie’s Portra as alternatives for those with X-Trans IV models. This Kodak Vericolor Warm recipe is especially well-suited for daylight photography, but can also be used during “blue hour” and overcast situations.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 3000K, +8 Red & -9 Blue Dynamic Range: DR100 Highlight: -2 Shadow: -1 Color: +2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Vericolor Warm” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Blue Sky Bougainvillea Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rose in the Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Triple Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water Pipe – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Trioliet – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tired Old Bus – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Four Lights – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tractor Pipe – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cattle Co – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Industrial Water – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tree on the Bank – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fujifilm Photographer – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Roadside Memorial – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Feed Barn – Palo Verde, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Metal Garage – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rust & Lock – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ome – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
No Loitering on Bridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Love the Bridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Goat Man – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Red & Green Bush – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Superia Xtra 400”
This is a simple update to the Superia Xtra 400 Film Simulation Recipe, which was originally made for X-Trans IV cameras. I discovered that a slight tweak is needed for X-Trans V models, because the new sensor renders blues just a little deeper on some film simulations, including Classic Negative. For this recipe, simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue from Strong to Weak makes it compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S.
Thomas Schwab created the Superia Xtra 400 recipe by capturing a roll of actual Superia Xtra 400 film while also capturing identical exposures with his Fujifilm cameras, then, using X RAW Studio, he worked on the settings until he found a match. As you can imagine, he put a lot of time and effort into creating it! He shared with me some of his side-by-side pictures—comparing the film with his recipe—and it was tough to figure out which was which—they looked so close! Also, just recently another photographer shot a roll of Superia Xtra 400 film and used the Superia Xtra 400 recipe on his Fujifilm camera, and he shared with me the similar results he got between the two. Amazing! Of course, with film, so much depends on how it’s shot, developed, and scanned or printed, and the aesthetic of one emulsion can vary significantly.
Fujifilm introduced Superia Xtra 400, a consumer-grade color negative film, in 1998, replacing Super G Plus 400. This film has been updated a couple of times, first in 2003 and again in 2006. It’s been widely used, thanks to its low cost and versatility. I’ve shot several rolls of this film over the years. This recipe is for Fujifilm X-Trans V cameras. Those with newer GFX models can use it, too, although it will likely render slightly differently.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto, +3 Red & -5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: 0 Shadow: -1 Color: +4 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Superia Xtra 400” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Forwards or Backwards – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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During this last SOOC broadcast, we attempted something never done before by anyone ever: create a new Film Simulation Recipe live on YouTube (which you can find at the 2:09:19 mark, if you missed the show). It was all done randomly. We spun wheels, used random number apps and programs, picked paper out of a hat, conducted a couple polls, and even had a kid pick a number—this recipe was a group effort created by you using chance. A special Thank You to everyone who participated! This was, of course, for fun. I would say that this is the least serious recipe ever to be published on this website, but that doesn’t mean you can’t use it for serious photography, because you absolutely can!
After completing the recipe, we took up name suggestions from the audience, and then ran a poll to decide which to go with, and “Mystery Chrome” won by a significant margin. The mystery is, perhaps, whether or not this is any good, or if anyone will actually use it—or maybe because it was all a mystery as it was being formed, parameter-by-parameter. We (as in the hosts, the guests, and those in the audience) also programmed this recipe into our cameras right away, and while still broadcasting live, we captured a picture, uploaded it, and shared them in the show (my picture is below). That’s the power of Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes: within minutes of creating a recipe, people can program it into their cameras, capture an image, and share it across the globe—it can be that quick. Amazing!
Slides – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1 – “Mystery Chrome”
Interestingly, this recipe—completely by luck—has a Kodak-like reversal film look, thanks to Classic Chrome, the white balance, and Highlight/Shadow settings. I think it’s somewhat similar to Kodachrome 200—it’s not quite right for that, but certainly in the ballpark, and probably the closest recipe on this website for that film. This is a high-contrast recipe, and is best for use in low-contrast situations or to achieve bold results in mid or high contrast scenarios. It certainly has the potential to be well-liked, but I don’t suspect it will be anyone’s go-to recipe for everyday photography.
If it were up to me, I would make one modifications to Mystery Chrome: Noise Reduction to -4 instead of +4. I’m not a big fan of the in-camera Noise Reduction, and I like to take it all the way down. For internet viewing, and even 8″ x 12″ prints, you’ll have a hard time even noticing the difference between +4 and -4, but if you zoom in or print larger, it becomes more obvious. Maybe you prefer the increased Noise Reduction; personally, I do not. All of the photos in this article were captured with Noise Reduction set to +4.
This Mystery Chrome Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with all Fujifilm X-Trans III cameras—X-Pro2, X100F, X-E3, X-T2, X-T20, and X-H1—plus the X-T3 and X-T30 by simply setting Color Chrome Effect to Off. For newer X-Trans IV cameras, additionally set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choose a Grain size (either Small or Large)—if you use it on X-Trans V cameras, blues will render slightly more deeply. For GFX, shadows will render slightly less dark, which you might actually prefer.
Classic Chrome Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +3 Shadow: +4 Color: 0 Color Chrome Effect: N/A (X-Trans III) or Off (X-T3/X-T30) Sharpness: -4 Noise Reduction: +4 Grain: Strong White Balance: Daylight, +3 Red & -5 Blue ISO: Auto up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this “Mystery Chrome” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-H1:
Slides Plus Canisters – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Corvette Abstract – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Taco Lamp – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Happy Girl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Late Bloomer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Rainbow Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Wren in Rome – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Traffic Flag – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Pergola Lights – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Autumn Rainbow – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Amber Autumn – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Brilliant Leaf – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Yellow Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
Bougainvillea & Palm Fronds – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-H1
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Up or Down – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Pacific Blues”
I published the Pacific Blues Film Simulation Recipe just four months ago, and it has already become one of the most popular on Fuji X Weekly. The aesthetic is intended to emulate Lucy Laucht‘s Spirit of Summer series, particularly the Positano Bluesphotographs. While it is intended for a summer day at the beach, the recipe works great for many different subjects and situations. Foggy mornings? Yes! Dreary overcast? Yep! Desert landscapes? Sure! Garden flowers? Autumn leaves? Dramatic portraits? Absolutely. And lots, lots more. I’ve even seen some really interesting night photographs with it. Try this recipe for many different light scenarios and different subjects—you’re bound to love it!
Pacific Blues was made for X-Trans IV cameras, and I discovered that a slight tweak is needed for X-Trans V models, because the new sensor renders blues just a little deeper on some film simulations. For X-Trans IV recipes that use Classic Negative, Classic Chrome, Eterna, or Eterna Bleach Bypass and calls for Color Chrome FX Blue Strong, you’ll need to adjust it to Weak on X-Trans V; if it calls for Color Chrome FX Blue Weak, you need to adjust it to Off. If it calls for Color Chrome FX Blue Off, well, you just have to know it will render differently on X-Trans V and there’s nothing you can do about it. For Pacific Blues, setting it to Weak instead of Strong makes it compatible with X-Trans V.
If you have an X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II, you’ll want to use the original Pacific Blues Film Simulation Recipe. For those with an X-T3 or X-T30, unfortunately Fujifilm never gave your camera the Classic Negative film simulation, so you cannot use Pacific Blues. For those with GFX, if it’s an older model, I think the X-Trans IV version is likely most compatible, and for newer models, this version is likely most compatible; however, I have not tested either version on any GFX model to know for sure. If you have an X-H2, X-H2S, or X-T5 (or any other X-Trans V camera that is released after publication), this is the Pacific Blues recipe that you want to use.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: 5800K, +1 Red & -3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: +3 Color: +4 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Pacific Blues” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Minolta Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ground Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wet Lightbulb – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Flower in the Rain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wet Red Rosebud – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wet Red Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Afternoon Bougainvillea – Bcukeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Illuminated Branch – Buckeye, AZ Fujifilm X-T5
Spiderwebs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Cactus – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Misty Morning Desert – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Foggy Tree – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Neighborhood Fog – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Autumn Walkway – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lifting Clouds Over Veiled Ridge – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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I’ve never really cared for Fujifilm’s Provia film simulation. I mean, it’s alright, but I like most of the other options better, and I wondered why they made it the “standard” film simulation. It doesn’t much resemble real Provia film—why even call it Provia?—yet it is front-and-center on all Fujifilm models.
I Recently stumbled across a fascinating article that helped me better understand why I don’t like Provia, and why the other film sims look the way they do. Exibartstreet.com translated and summarized an interview of two Fujifilm managers who discussed at length the different film simulations found on Fujifilm cameras (the original interview articles can be found here and here, and is two years old). I now have a little better understanding of Fujifilm’s philosophy behind the creation of their profiles.
Truck Stop Cross Process – Bowie, TX – Fujifilm X100F – Provia film sim – “Cross Process” recipe
Specifically to Provia, I discovered that I was never supposed to like it. It wasn’t designed for me. “When it comes to Provia,” one of the Fujifilm managers stated, “photographers that started with film find it hard, but photographers that only shoot digitally find it just right.” Well, I started with film; I don’t know if I’d describe it as “hard” but it is far from “just right” for me personally. “Provia aims at the greatest common denominator that makes you feel ‘beautiful’ at a glance.” In other words, they weren’t trying to mimic any emulsions, but create a profile that looks nice to those who have only ever shot with digital cameras. “In my personal opinion, I would like to change the name ‘film simulation,'” the Fujifilm manager said. “Film simulation is not film imitation.”
Diving into the interview, we discover that Velvia was, in fact, modeled after the film of the same name, but digital sensor and processor limitations have made it difficult to reproduce the film’s aesthetic; however, beginning with X-Trans III, Fujifilm has been able to get closer. Enabling Color Chrome Effect allows you to achieve the appropriate color depth.
Wind from the West – Hammond, OR – Fujifilm X-E4 – Astia film sim – “CineStill 50D” recipe
The Astia film simulation looks so much different than real Astia film. “We often receive comments that ‘reproducibility is different from Astia of silver salt,'” the manager explained. “The reason for this is that ‘the image quality design is not aimed at silver salt Astia.’ You may wonder what it means to bear the name of Astia even though it is different, but it is not completely unrelated. In fact, both film and digital are aiming at the same place. In other words, the film simulation ‘Astia’ was developed to bring it closer to the ‘ideal Astia’ that the development team aimed for when developing the silver salt film Astia.” Put more simply, the film simulation is the aesthetic that Fujifilm would have produced with the film if they could have.
Classic Chrome was modeled after an unmentioned slide film… they can’t say Kodak.
Pilot – Cordes Lakes, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Classic Chrome film sim – “Kodachrome 64” recipe
PRO Neg. Std and PRO Neg. Hi were not modeled after any specific emulsions, but are for faithful color reproduction. “The main difference is the tone curve. PRO Neg. Hi is adjusted to tighten the shadows and tighten the highlights. On the other hand, the color design is the same.”
The Eterna film simulation was modeled after Eterna motion picture film. Regarding Eterna Bleach Bypass, “This setting is equivalent to ‘half of the silver remaining’ on film….”
Coastal Blooms – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Classic Negative film sim – “Pacific Blues” recipe
“Classic Negative is a very special kind of film simulation, designed so that the appearance of colors changes depending on the brightness. Therefore, I make adjustments so that dark tones are cyan, and bright tones are magenta. Classic Negative… was originally ‘Superia.'” It’s clear that this film simulation was carefully crafted to closely mimic Superia film. “To tell you the truth, I feel that Classic Negative was a little too bold.” I think Fujifilm should consider going “too bold” more often!
There’s a heck-of-a-lot more said in the interview that’s quite fascinating. I think Fujifilm doesn’t want its users to interpret “film simulation” as “film imitation” because not all of their film sims are intended to mimic film. Some are, and some are not. But, even the ones that are not, the digital side teamed up with the film side to assist in designing all of the film simulations—including Provia/Std—and I think their careful attention to detail and vast film experience translates into profiles that can be made to resemble film, even if the film sim was never intended to. Still, the film simulations that are, in fact, modeled after film are my favorites.
When should you use which Film Simulation Recipes on your Fujifilm X-Trans II camera? With so many recipes to choose from, it can be difficult to know what recipe you should select in a given situation, and this article is intended to help you with that. If you haven’t read Part 1, it’s important to do so because it explains what exactly we’re doing—the backstory—which is imperative to understand. There’s a video to watch in that article, too. Take a moment right now to hop on over to Part 1 (click here) before continuing on with this post, if you haven’t viewed it already.
One thing to note about X-Trans II cameras is that not all of them have the Classic Chrome film simulation, including the X100S, X20, and XQ1. Unfortunately, if you have one of those models, this list is slightly less useful to you, although I hope you still find it helpful. For those with an X100T, X-E2, X-E2S, X-T1, X-T10, X30, X70, or XQ2, this list is fully compatible with your camera.
Like Parts 2 & 3, I set out to recommend seven recipes, one for each C1-C7 Custom Preset, that don’t share the same white balance type or, if they do, they also share the same shift, because X-Trans II cameras cannot remember a White Balance Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets. If two recipes share the same white balance type but not the same shift, then when you switch presets you must remember to adjust the shift, too. That can be inconvenient and frustrating, so my best solution is to program recipes that use different white balance types and/or share the same white balance type and shift. The user experience is much improved, but you might not be able to program all of your favorite recipes at the same time, which is the one downside to doing this. It was a difficult task, but I think I came up with a good set for you.
The Classic Kodak Chrome Film Simulation Recipe is a great option for sunrise or sunset photography, or pretty much anytime of the day or night. This is my current favorite recipe for X-Trans II cameras—I shoot with it often, more than all of the other X-Trans II recipes combined. This is my top allrounder choice! Almost no matter the subject, situation, or light, this is the recipe that I go with. Classic Kodak Chrome uses the Auto white balance type; if I wasn’t concerned about white balance type, I’d go with this recipe or Ektachrome 100SW whenever the sun is low to the horizon.
An Arizona Autumn – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T1 – “Kodak Portra 160”
Whenever the sun is not low to the horizon, my top-choice for daylight photography is the Kodak Portra 160 recipe, although it is good for “golden hour” too, and can be used anytime the sun is out. This is one of my favorite X-Trans II recipes, and is especially good for portrait photography, or whenever you want warm Kodak-like negative film colors. Kodak Portra 160 uses the Daylight white balance type; if I wasn’t concerned about white balance type, this or any in the “alternatives” list would be good options.
A Yellow Trumpet Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Fujichrome Slide”
I really like the Fujichrome Slide recipe, but it’s not my first option for overcast conditions. It does well enough, but I’d go with Classic Kodak Chrome instead (which is already in the C1 custom preset slot). Unfortunately, there aren’t a lot of good options for dreary days that don’t use a white balance type that’s already taken for another category. Fujichrome Slide uses the Fluorescent 1 white balance type; if I wasn’t concerned about white balance type, I would consider Winter Slide or Porto 200 as better alternatives.
Morning Coffee – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Kodak Color Negative”
The Kodak Color Negative Film Simulation Recipe is pretty versatile and does well in a number of situations—indoor is just one of them. It uses the Incandescent white balance type; if I wasn’t concerned about white balance type, I’d still choose it, but Agfa Optima would be a good alternative.
Night Synergy – Centerville, UT – Fujifilm X-T1 – “CineStill 800T”
The CineStill 800T recipe for X-Trans II cameras is my absolute favorite nighttime option, period. If it’s after dark and I’m photographing artificial lights, this is the recipe I’m using. CineStill 800T uses the Kelvin white balance type; if I wasn’t concerned about white balance type I’d still use this one.
Freedom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Lomography Color 100”
In Parts 1-3, this category is called Alternative Process; however, for X-Trans II there’s only one recipe for that category—Cross Process—and it uses a white balance type that’s already taken. So I changed the rules a little, and called this category Wildcard instead, which is simply a recipe that’s included just because. Lomography Color 100 can produce good results in a number of situations, including golden hour, midday, shade, and indoors. It’s good for landscapes, street, and portrait photography. However, it has a little different aesthetic than the other recipes in this list. Lomography Color 100 uses the Shade white balance type; if I wasn’t concerned about white balance type, I’d choose Cross Process instead.
Jonathan with a Smile – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X70 – “Monochrome Red”
The Monochrome Red Film Simulation Recipe is an excellent option for black-and-white photography. It’s especially well suited for blue-sky landscapes, but it does pretty well in other situations, too. It uses the Fluorescent 1 white balance type and shares the same shift as Fujichrome Slide, so both can occupy a slot in the C1-C7 custom presets simultaneously; if I wasn’t concerned about white balance type, the Monochrome recipe is a pretty good alternative—you really can’t go wrong with either.
The Fujinon XF 27mm f/2.8 R WR is my favorite lens for Fujifilm cameras. The problem is that it’s also my wife’s favorite lens, and between the two of us we only have one copy. When she’s using it, I typically go with the Fujinon 35mm f/2 instead, which is a really good lens, too, but I like the 27mm just a bit better. The other problem is that the 35mm lens, while small, is bigger than my 27mm pancake, and it doesn’t fit into my travel camera bag (I have it set up where my Fujifilm X100V and Fujifilm X-E4 with the 27mm fit really nicely into a little camera bag—the 35mm lens is just a tad too big). When TTArtisan recently announced their inexpensive 27mm f/2.8 autofocus pancake lens, I thought maybe this could be a good solution to my problem.
The TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 feels well built. There’s mostly metal in the construction, and at 0.2 pounds, it’s definitely lightweight. It has an aperture ring, with f-stops from f/2.8 to f/16, and third-stop clicks in-between. It has 6 elements in 5 groups, and 7 diaphragm blades. 27mm is full-frame equivalent to 40.5mm, and is pretty close to what they eyes see. The minimum focus distance is about 13.5 inches. It accepts 39mm threaded filters—the lens came with a tiny hood that screws into the threads. The rear cap has a USB dock for firmware updates. Overall, the lens looks and feels pretty good.
TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 on a Fujifilm X-T5
I really like the manual focus ring. It has the right amount of give, and the amount of focus change per turn is great. I like this lens better as manual-focus than autofocus. Why? Autofocus is loud and slow. Fujifilm’s 27mm isn’t their quickest or quietest, but the TTArtisan is noticeably noisier and slower (I tried it on an X-T5 and X-E4 with the same result on both). It reminds me a lot of Fujifilm’s 18mm f/2 pancake. I said of that lens, “Autofocus is the slowest I’ve experienced in a Fujinon model, outside of macro lenses that have a long range to cycle through. It’s also the loudest.” The TTArtisan’s autofocus performs very similarly. My wife has been around cameras and lenses nearly as much as I have—she shoots with a Fujifilm X-T4. A couple days ago I was playing around with the TTArtisan 27mm and she happened to be nearby, and she asked, “What’s that noise?” I answered, “This new lens, it’s trying to focus.” Her response was, “I’m sorry.” Maybe I just got a bum copy, or maybe they’re all that way—either way, it was a bit disappointing, but not completely unexpected for cheap gear.
The other aspect of the TTArtisan 27mm that’s similar to the Fujinon 18mm is size, as they’re pretty close to the same dimensions—the TTArtisan is just barely smaller. I said in my review of the 18mm, “Whereas the 27mm is a true pancake, the 18mm f/2 is only sort-of one, as it’s a little on the large size for this category. Think of it more of a Japanese pancake than an American flapjack, or maybe it’s a short stack.” It’s definitely smaller than the 35mm f/2, though, and it passed the fit-test in my travel bag. So when my wife is using the Fujinon 27mm, I can choose to attach the TTArtisan 27mm or the Fujinon 18mm to my X-E4, and it will still fit alongside my X100V.
What about image quality? There’s some strong vignetting that never fully goes away—by f/8 it’s extraordinarily minimal, but at f/2.8 it’s very pronounced. You can use the vignetting creatively, or stop down… it’s not too bad at f/4, and definitely not a big deal by f/5.6. It’s pretty sharp in the center at all apertures, but a little soft in the corners wide-open. I think the lens is optically best at around f/8, but certainly acceptably good at all apertures—even f/2.8. Bokeh (which is the quality of the out-of-focus areas of an image and an overrated aspect of image quality) is alright—not bad, but not my favorite, either; can be slightly “swirly” at f/2.8 when close-focusing. I didn’t notice chromatic aberrations or anything like that, but it might be because the camera is fixing it automatically. There is some noticeable barrel distortion. Lens flare is mostly well controlled, and sometimes kind of interesting (I’ve yet to decide if I like it or not). Overall, image quality from the TTArtisans 27mm isn’t as good as the Fujinon 27mm, but still pretty good.
The TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8 is only $160, which is an extremely good price. If the Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 is out of your budget or you’re having a difficult time finding a copy, this is a pretty good alternative. If you can afford the Fujinon model, I recommend that instead because it’s better; however, the TTArtisan is pretty good yet very affordable. For those on a tight budget, I don’t think you’ll find a better pancake lens for your Fujifilm camera.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Blue Sky Bougainvillea Blossom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 + TTArtisan 27mm @f/6.4 – Upcoming recipe
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I bet you’ve figured out which is which, but if you haven’t, in the train picture at top the left is Nostalgic Neg. and the right is Eterna. For the set above, the Eterna picture is left and the Nostalgic Neg. is right.
What’s different between the two? There’s quite a bit different between out-of-the-box default Nostalgic Neg. and Eterna, but Eterna can be made to look quite similar to Nostalgic Neg.—this was just a quick experiment, and with some more time and work, I could probably get it even closer. Nostalgic Neg. has a little more contrast, a lot more vibrant colors, and is slightly warmer than Eterna. With some modifications to make the two appear similar, though, it seems that the biggest difference is that Nostalgic Neg. is slightly warmer and more vibrant in the shadows, and yellow is rendered a little more deeply; otherwise, you can almost match them identically.
So what does it take to create faux Nostalgic Neg. with Eterna? I’m still fine-tuning it, but I believe that, using Eterna, reducing Highlight by -1, increasing Shadow by +1.5, reducing Dynamic Range by one or maybe two spots, adjusting White Balance Shift by +2 Red and -1 (or maybe -2) Blue, increasing Color by +6… this obviously means that Color has to be a negative value (at least -2) on Nostalgic Neg. in order to match it. This is all still a work-in-progress, but it does mean that a fairly close faux Nostalgic Neg. recipe for X-Trans IV is possible, and in the process of being created. If you feel as though you’re missing out on Nostalgic Neg.—don’t fret!—if your camera has Eterna, it can, to an extent, mimic it—stay tuned for a Film Simulation Recipe!
Join me next week for a very special SOOC broadcast! On Thursday, December 8, at 8:30 AM Pacific Time, 11:30 AM Eastern, Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry and I, plus a number of guests, will get festive live on YouTube, as we finish our discussion of the Kodak Ektachrome 100SW Film Simulation Recipe (don’t forget to upload your pictures by December 6th—click here). We have several fun surprises planned, so this is an episode that you won’t want to miss! I hope to see you then!
For those who don’t know, SOOC is a monthly live video series, with each episode focused on a different Film Simulation Recipe. It is a collaboration between Tame Your Fujifilm (Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry) and Fuji X Weekly (Ritchie Roesch). SOOC is a fun and educational experience where we not only talk about Fujifilm camera settings, but also answer your questions and give tips and tricks. Basically, we’re trying to help you master your Fujifilm camera, with a focus on simplifying your photographic workflow.
If you missed the last broadcast… due to technical difficulties, it’s been divided into Part 1 and Part 2, which you can find below. Also, I’ve included the last Viewers’ Images slideshow (your pictures!) at the bottom, in case you missed that, too.
What’s in the December issue? The cover story is about nighttime street and urban photography in Phoenix, Arizona, with a Fujifilm X100V. There are 29 pictures, including the cover, across 20 page.
If you haven’t joined the Creative Collective, consider subscribing today to get access to bonus articles and the FXW Zine—not just this issue, but the first twelve issues, too!
Soft Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Timeless Negative”
On February 3, 2021, Fujifilm shared the very first Nostalgic Neg. Film Simulation Recipe. As part of their promotion for the GFX100S, which was the first camera to have the new Nostalgic Neg. film sim, Fujifilm Japan shared a YouTube video, and hidden within was a recipe put together by the creators of Nostalgic Neg. “Nostalgic Negative is tuned for the best allrounder settings, but if you want to tweak it to get that classic American New Color look from the ’70’s, there are some adjustments you should make.” Fujifilm recommended, when using the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, to set everything to 0, Off, or Auto, except for three things: shift Auto White Balance to +2 Red & -3 Blue, adjust Shadow to -2, and reduce Color to -2. Additional to that, I recommend using -4 High ISO NR.
I’m not a huge fan of Nostalgic Neg. set to factory defaults. It’s not bad, but it’s not what it purports to be, which is a vintage 1970’s aesthetic inspired by Eggleston, Shore, Sternfeld, and Misrach. I think Fujifilm should have had the courage to make their recipe the default, and not worry so much that it wasn’t the “best allrounder” film simulation. Fujifilm’s suggested adjustments do improve Nostalgic Neg. and bring it closer to a ’70’s vibe, but I felt I could improve it just a little more. Of course, that’s all subjective, and you might prefer factory default Nostalgic Neg., or Fujifilm’s recommended recipe, or something different altogether—in other words, when I say that this is “improved” it’s perfectly alright to disagree with that assessment, but hopefully many of you will agree that this is indeed better—at least a little, as my adjustments to Fujifilm’s recipe are pretty subtle. This particular recipe seems to be especially versatile, and can be used for many different genres of photography and in various light conditions—it looks good most anytime of the day or night.
This Timeless Negative Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. Unless Fujifilm gives X-Trans IV cameras the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, which I doubt they will do, this recipe is only for X-Trans V cameras, and maybe the latest GFX, too; however, Nostalgic Neg. isn’t too dissimilar from Eterna, so perhaps consider the Arizona Analog, SantaColor, Eterna V2, and Polaroid recipes as potential alternatives for those with X-Trans IV models.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +2 Red & -3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +2 Shadow: -2 Color: -3 Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -2/3 to +1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Timeless Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Dark Coffee – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Night Train – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Color Behind Frosted Glass – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hot Hot Hot – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sleigh Bell – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Round Trip Ticket – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dusk Train – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Keep Off – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Please… Use RitchieCam – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Barricades – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
ATSF Caboose – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Route 66 Gift Shop – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Car Above, Coke Below – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
UnAmerican Experience – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Stop Route 66 – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Los Angeles, 1978 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Looney Tune – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Backyard Trumpet Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Comparison
Factory default Nostalgic Neg., except High ISO NR set to -4.
Nostalgic Neg. with Fujifilm’s suggested adjustments.
This new Timeless Negative Film Simulation Recipe.
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I get asked frequently to create Film Simulation Recipes that mimic the aesthetic of a certain film stock or the look of a particular photographer. In this case, it was the look of a specific photographer that I was asked to recreate. After viewing this person’s images, I thought that they had a lot of similarities with my Kodak Gold 200 recipe except with Superia greens and reds. So I programmed that recipe into my Fujifilm X100V, except with Classic Negative instead of Classic Chrome, plus I made a couple of small modifications. After testing it out, I felt that it produced pictures that were, in fact, quite similar to the photographer’s look. A few days went by, and by chance I stumbled upon some photographs captured with Fujicolor 100 film, and they looked pretty similar to this new recipe. After digging a little deeper, I found some more Fujicolor 100 pictures, and in the description of a few that seemed particularly similar, the photographer mentioned that they used an 81A warming filter.
I’ve heard it said that Fujifilm has historically saved their “best” films for Japan. Indeed, there are Fuji emulsions that, for whatever reasons, aren’t sold outside their home country. Fujicolor 100 is a one of those. I don’t know a whole lot about it (or if it is even still manufactured), but it is a consumer-grade color negative film. I believe that it’s a little warmer than most Fujicolor stocks, but that could also be a result of a warming filter, lens used, how shot, how developed, and/or how scanned, so I’m not completely certain of it. I didn’t model this recipe after Fujicolor 100, but it does seem at times to resemble it surprisingly closely.
Gated Camera Store – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V – “Fujicolor 100 Gold”
Because this Fujicolor 100 Gold Film Simulation Recipe uses the Classic Negative film simulation, it’s not compatible with the Fujifilm X-T3 or X-T30, or any other camera without Classic Negative. It is intended for the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II models. Because X-Trans V renders blue deeper, if you use it on an X-T5, X-H2, or X-H2S it will look slightly different, which you might like or dislike or be indifferent to—give it a try and see what you think.
Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: +1 Color: +3 Noise Reduction: -4 Sharpness: -2 Clarity: -2 Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome Effect Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +4 Red & -5 Blue ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Fujicolor 100 Gold” Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X100V:
Foto Forum – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Gas Station Turned Diner – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
American Shooting Experience – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
66 Gifts – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Hot Hare – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Someday Sony – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
One of These is Not Like the Others – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Self Reflection – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Confused Santa – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Look at this Flower – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Girl by a Fountain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Water Feature – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Fujifilm X-T5 in a Plant – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
A Pink Bloom – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Garden Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
Small Boats at a Dock – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X100V
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Lights from a Frosted Window – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodachrome 64” – ISO 6400
A lot of people have asked me if the Fujifilm X-T5, with the new 40-megapixel X-Trans V sensor and processor, is better or worse than the 26-megapixel X-Trans IV cameras when it comes to high-ISO noise. Conventional wisdom would suggest that the lower-resolution sensor would be superior. Is it? Or did Fujifilm pull a rabbit out of a magic hat and somehow make X-Trans V better at high-ISO despite more megapixels?
I’ve spent some time pixel-peeping, comparing X-Trans V to X-Trans IV. Right off the bat I can tell you that both are pretty similar to each other. You’ll have a very hard time noticing the differences without pixel-peeping, and with pixel-peeping, they’re still quite similar. Below I’ve included a massive crop from an X-Trans V camera and an X-Trans IV camera. If these crops were sections of the whole pictures printed, I don’t know how large the prints would be, but they would be very large, so keep that in mind. The picture on the left (revealed by moving the bar to the right) is X-Trans IV, and the picture on the right (revealed by moving the bar to the left) is X-Trans V. Take a look at these two images.
You likely notice that the X-Trans V image is a little more detailed with noticeably finer digital noise, while the X-Trans IV picture is a tad fuzzier with chunkier digital noise. This is a result of the higher resolution sensor of the 40mp X-Trans V camera. What might be less obvious is that there seems to be just a bit more color blotchiness in the X-Trans V image. Perhaps even less obvious, I believe the X-Trans V camera is applying a slightly heavier-handed noise reduction to the picture than X-Trans IV, despite both set to -4 High ISO NR. However, please take all of this with a grain of salt, because we’re seriously pixel-peeping here. In real world photography, both cameras are pretty darn good at high-ISO, and neither are significantly better or worse than the other, and there’s no practical variance between the two. Unless you print posters or crop deeply, you’re not going to even notice a difference—even if you did print large or crop massively, the differences are pretty minor, but I guess you can feel confident that ultra-high ISO pictures will look slightly better (for the most part) on X-Trans V than X-Trans IV. That’s the takeaway, I think: high-ISO on X-Trans V cameras are just a hair better than X-Trans IV, but not enough to make a practical difference for most people. What I will add, though, is that it’s pretty amazing that they could do this while also increasing the resolution. I do wonder, though, if Fujifilm could make—say—a 20mp X-Trans camera with significantly increased dynamic range and high-ISO performance—that’s something I would be highly interested in.
Below are a few more high-ISO examples from my Fujifilm X-T5 camera.
Polar – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “GAF 500” – ISO 12800
Train Wheels – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “GAF 500” – ISO 12800
Tracks – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodachrome 64” – ISO 6400
Polar Express Passengers – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodak Tri-X 400” – ISO 12800
Tree Lights – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodachrome 64” – ISO 6400
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Pilot – Cordes Lakes, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Kodachrome 64”
This isn’t a new Film Simulation Recipe; it’s simply a slight modification of my Kodachrome 64 recipe for X-Trans IV cameras to make it compatible with X-Trans V models. The adjustments are pretty simple: set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off and Shadow to +0.5. Why the Color Chrome FX Blue adjustment? I discovered that with Classic Chrome (and some other film simulations), X-Trans V cameras render blue deeper. Why the change to Shadow? I stated in the X-Trans IV version, “I would set Shadow to +0.5 if I were using these settings on [a] camera [with that option].” With those two modifications, the Kodachrome 64 recipe is ready for your Fujifilm X-Trans V camera!
Kodachrome was a brand-name of color reversal film made by Kodak between 1935 and 2009. There were three eras of Kodachrome: 1935-1960, 1961-1973, and 1974-2009. Each era produced a slightly different look, and the third era is the one you’re probably most familiar with. This recipe is intended to mimic the aesthetic of the third era of Kodachrome, specifically the ISO 64 emulsion.
This Kodachrome 64 Film Simulation Recipe is intended for Fujifilm X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) include the X-H2, X-H2S, and X-T5 cameras. It’s compatible with newer GFX models too, but will likely render slightly different on those cameras. Those with an X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II, try the Kodachrome 64 recipe for those models (click here). Those with an X-T3 or X-T30, try the Kodachrome 64 recipe for those cameras (click here). For those with an X-Trans II model, there’s a Kodachrome 64 recipe for you, too (click here).
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +2 Red & -5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: 0 Shadow: +0.5 Color: +2 Sharpness: +1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodachrome 64” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Palm Tree Closeup – Palo Verde, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Abandoned Mobile Home – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Store & Bar – Hassayampi, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Narrow Bridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Concrete Railroad Ties & Steel Bridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gillespie Dam – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gila River Reeds – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Flag, Bell, Cross – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Princess Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Secret Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blossomed Garden Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Farm Truck – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Wall Shadow & Empty Pot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dusk Lamp – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Girl on Swing – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Sunset – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
Short Train – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “1970’s Summer”
This Film Simulation Recipe is the aesthetic that I hoped to achieve with the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. What does it resemble? It very much has a nostalgic Kodak “memory color” (as Fujifilm likes to say) that is reminiscent of old color photographs from the 1970’s. You might notice some similarities to William Eggleston’s Election Eve and 2 1/4 series and some of his other work from the late-1960’s through the mid-1970’s—not every picture, but certainly several. You might spot some similarities between this look and some of Stephen Shore’s photographs from the early-to-mid 1970’s. I think there are some similarities to a few of Joel Sternfeld’s American Prospects pictures. There’s a noticeable likeness to several of Richard Misrach’s desert photographs. In other words, this recipe produces a distinct 1970’s American New Color aesthetic.
It shouldn’t surprise you that the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation produces this look because Fujifilm stated that the American New Color movement was the inspiration. Specifically, they looked at the photographs of Eggleston, Shore, Sternfeld, and Misrach, but out-of-the-box default Nostalgic Neg. doesn’t seem to resemble their work all that closely. After examining many of their photographs, and identifying a few from each with a similar aesthetic, I set out to create a Film Simulation Recipe that better mimics some of their pictures. I feel like a got pretty close, and this recipe produces a distinct 1970’s vibe—especially the warmth of summertime—and so I named it 1970’s Summer. This recipe works best in sunny daylight, and is excellent for midday photography.
Going Out of Business – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “1970’s Summer”
This 1970’s Summer Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. Unless Fujifilm gives X-Trans IV cameras the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, which I doubt they will do, this recipe is only for X-Trans V cameras, and maybe the latest GFX, too; however, if you are looking for something somewhat similar, try my Vintage Color recipe, or even Kodak Portra 400 Warm.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 6500K, -1 Red & -4 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -2 Shadow: -0.5 Color: -2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “1970’s Summer” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Red & Gold – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Adventure’s First Stop – Prescott Valley, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hyundai – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cat Clock – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Propane – Hassayampa, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Security Light – Palo Verde, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hay, Detour – – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gila River Bridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
13 FT 6 IN – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Around the Bend – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gillespie Dam Bridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Dam – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Julio Suarez – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dam Reflection – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Broken Dam – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lakeview – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Attention Anglers – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Can’t See the Forest – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rural Tree – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Green Field – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Abandoned Rural Home – Palo Verde, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
More Than Double Wide – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hole in the Wall – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
PRA – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Abandoned & Leaning – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Desert Basketball – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Double Cross – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Palm Trunk & Blocks – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fake Fall Flowers – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Arlington Baptist Church – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Gate 8 – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Flowing Water & Broken Footbridge – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Irrigation Mist – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
I’ve been busy the last few days trying to see what is similar and what’s different about the JPEG output from my new Fujifilm X-T5 camera. How does X-Trans V compare with X-Trans IV? Are my X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipes really compatible with the new Fujifilm cameras? Technically they are because the options are the same (except that X-Trans V has the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation), but do they render the same, or at least similar enough?
I was surprised by something that I discovered. While many of the colors are extremely close in rendering, blues are not. Take a look at the comparison below. Both images were captured with identical settings and even the same lens—one with an X-Trans IV camera, and the other on X-Trans V—but the blue sky is not the same. If you study close enough you might notice some other extremely subtle differences, but the rendering of blue is a clearly not the same between the two sensor generations.
I looked very closely at all of the different film simulations, and I noticed that this difference in blue is film simulation dependent. Not all film sims render blue differently, and some vary more than others. Here are my discoveries:
Eterna Bleach Bypass on X-Trans V renders blue a little darker than on X-Trans IV with Color Chrome FX Blue set to Weak. Classic Negative on X-Trans V renders blue identically to X-Trans IV with Color Chrome FX Blue set to Weak. Classic Chrome and Eterna on X-Trans V renders blue just barely lighter than on X-Trans IV with Color Chrome FX Blue set to Weak. Velvia, PRO Neg. Hi, and PRO Neg. Std on X-Trans V renders blue halfway in-between Color Chrome FX Blue set to Weak and Off on X-Trans IV. Provia and Astia on X-Trans V renders blue identically to X-Trans IV with Color Chrome FX Blue set to Off.
In other words, with the exception of Provia and Astia, blue is different on X-Trans V than X-Trans IV. With Classic Negative, if an X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipe calls for Color Chrome FX Blue set to Weak, if you set it to Off instead, it will render the same; if it call for Color Chrome FX Blue set to Strong, if you set it to Weak instead, it will render the same. You can also do that with Eterna Bleach Bypass, Eterna, and Classic Chrome, and it will be pretty close, but it won’t be identical. With Velvia, PRO Neg. Hi, and PRO Neg. Std, you can go either way (adjusting Color Chrome FX Blue or not), and it really doesn’t matter because it will be wrong by about the same amount, either too light or too dark.
Does it matter? it’s not a huge difference, but it is a difference. You might prefer the rendering of X-Trans IV or you might prefer the rendering of X-Trans V. I think, personally, I’m leaning towards preferring the X-Trans V rendering—many of my recipes use Color Chrome FX Blue set to Weak or sometimes Strong, and with X-Trans V that’s already built-in now on some of the film simulations. But it also means that many X-Trans IV recipes will render differently, and, while technically compatible, aren’t truly compatible with X-Trans V cameras.
I captured with picture on my Fujifilm X-T5 using the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation.
Why did Fujifilm do this? I don’t think this is anything new. For example, Fujifilm has tweaked Velvia film, because the original Velvia emulsion was a “mistake” (although many photographers didn’t think so—if it was an accident, it was a very happy one). I remember reading once that Fujifilm, with each sensor generation, reevaluates each film simulation to see if it’s possible to get them closer to the intended aesthetic. Fujifilm likely decided that the blue of previous generations wasn’t quite “right” for many of the film simulations and so they fixed it. You might not thought that it was “broke” so you’re wondering why they felt the need to “fix” it; however, the folks at Fujifilm must have thought something wasn’t quite right, so they adjusted it.
What else is different? I’m still looking closely, so I don’t have all the answers yet. I think the rendering of cool colors is slightly different, but blue is by far the biggest change—even with a close side-by-side comparison it’s difficult to spot the differences of the greens and purples, but blue is obvious. Shadows and luminance in general seem to be just a hair dissimilar, but it’s close. Warm colors seem to be pretty much identical; if they’re different it’s tough to spot—maybe yellow is the most dissimilar of the warm colors, but it is still very similar, and I think it might have more to do with general luminance than a color difference. Really, blue rendering is the only significant difference I’ve found so far between X-Trans IV and X-Trans V.
With the Fuji X Weekly App, I don’t have X-Trans IV recipes currently listed as compatible with X-Trans V cameras. There are some—those that use Provia or Astia—that could be listed as compatible because they’ll render the same. For others, a Color Chrome FX Blue adjustment will make them compatible. For others, they won’t ever look the same but will still look pretty similar. I’m still deciding how I’ll handle this. The easy route would be to just say they’re all compatible—that they’re close enough—but I don’t think that’s the right path. I ask for patience as I wade through these waters—the rendering of that blue water on X-Trans V—and how to best present it to you in the form of Film Simulation Recipes.
Lynx Lake Overlook – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Nostalgia Negative”
I spent $1,700 to get the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. When I tried out-of-the-box default Nostalgic Neg., I was initially disappointed. It didn’t seem like anything special, or even particularly nostalgic. After a closer look, I saw the potential. The Nostalgic Neg. film simulation is like a cross between Eterna and Classic Chrome. It has soft tonalities in the shadows like Eterna, and warm colors are similar to Eterna, but with contrast and an overall palette more similar to Classic Chrome. There are some aspects that aren’t necessarily like either Eterna or Classic Chrome, but, for the most part, if Eterna and Classic Chrome had a baby, it would be Nostalgic Neg.
For this first Fujifilm X-Trans V Film Simulation Recipe, I wasn’t trying to emulate any specific film or process. I just wanted something that looked good. I simply attempted to create a better Nostalgic Neg., something that I would like shooting with. I hoped that perhaps it would even evoke feelings of nostalgia—that’s why I call this recipe Nostalgia Negative—and it would produce a vintage analog-like aesthetic. I think it does.
I really like this recipe for daylight situations. It does quite well in both midday and golden hour light. It’s pretty decent in shade, too. It’s not particularly well suited for indoor artificial light or nighttime photography, so I would avoid it for that. Otherwise, use it for landscapes, portraits, urban—it will look good for pretty much any genre of photography. I think this will be an instant favorite recipe for those with the latest cameras. Because this recipe uses Clarity, you cannot use the HEIF format, because HEIF disables Clarity. Also, for those who aren’t aware, Clarity causes the camera to pause briefly after each shot, similar to the amount of time it takes to advance to the next frame of film on an analog camera. I have Smooth Skin Effect Off, but I’m sure it’s fine if you enable it, either Weak or Strong, if you prefer.
Two Ducks – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – “Nostalgia Negative”
This Nostalgia Negative Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. Unless Fujifilm gives X-Trans IV cameras this film simulation, which I highly doubt that they will, this recipe is only for X-Trans V, and maybe the latest GFX, too; however, my Nostalgic Negative recipe for X-Trans IV cameras is actually not too far off from the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, so you might appreciate using that recipe while you wait to get a camera with the new film simulation.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Daylight, +3 Red & -3 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +1 Color: +4 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this new “Nostalgia Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Blue Tree – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lake Log – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
311 – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Caution: Nature – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
To – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Believer – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
CVS Obscured – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Tower – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
The Burmister – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dusk Blazer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spiderweb Rocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Don’t Shoot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Warning – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Triumph – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Light Chair – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lake Rocks – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Log on the Lake – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Brush Above the Water – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Private Dock – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
PFG Boy – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Amanda – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Forest Abstract – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Last Light on the Desert Mountain Ridge – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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Wow! It’s been crazy the last several days. Fujifilm released the X-T5 on the 17th. Not everyone got their orders.
Let’s back this up. Amazon apparently listed the X-T5 too early on announcement day. By contract, everyone is supposed to go live no earlier than a certain time, but Amazon jumped the gun. I preordered an X-T5 on Amazon because I had reward points that I wanted to use. When the 17th came around, some people received their preorders that day. For others it shipped that day, and arrived in the next day or two. For me? Nothing. Those who ordered on Amazon were left in the dark. What I didn’t know is that Fujifilm decided to punish Amazon for their sins and not give them any cameras to sell; sadly, only Fujifilm photographers who ordered through Amazon were actually punished. Is it Amazon’s fault? Yes. Is it Fujifilm’s fault? Sure—they could have done something else to teach Amazon a lesson, while still allowing people to receive the cameras they ordered. Is it my fault? No. Is it your fault? No. But you and I didn’t get our gear when others did. I know this is a first-world problem, and in the grand scheme of things it doesn’t matter, but it is something that many people have experienced.
Amazon is a huge company, and Fujifilm sales are a tiny drop in a massive bucket. If Fujifilm stopped selling to Amazon altogether, it wouldn’t hurt Amazon in any way, shape, or form. I get that Fujifilm has to hold them accountable. I get that it wasn’t fair to their other retail customers. But let’s be real: crap rolls down hill. Who ended up with the crap? Me. You, if you, too, ordered through Amazon. Fujifilm’s customers are who got punished, not Amazon. I’m sure Amazon gave two seconds to this situation, and hasn’t cared one iota since. When they get their cameras, they’ll sell every single copy, and it will have such a small impact on the bottom line that you need a powerful magnifying glass just to see it. Those trying to be patient with their Amazon preorders might have to be extremely patient—I’ve heard that it might be sometime in January before orders are shipped. I don’t know that for a fact, but it’s what I have heard, and it may or may not be true—I hope it isn’t true.
So how did I get my X-T5? I called around to local camera stores, and I found one in stock. Luckily, Foto Forum in Phoenix had a body-only copy, plus one bundled with the 18-55mm f/2.8-f/4 kit zoom. I purchased the one with the lens. If you are still waiting for yours to ship, maybe call around to local camera stores to see if they still have an X-T5 in stock, and if so purchase from them instead.
That’s my story. What about you? Did you buy a Fujifilm X-T5? Did it arrive or are you still waiting?
People have already begun asking me for my impressions on this camera. I think a number of you are waiting to learn a little more about it before spending so much money. It’s way too soon to provide you with anything valuable. I’ll tell you my way-too-soon initial impressions, but please take them with a large grain of salt. I’ve only barely begun to use the camera and really haven’t had a chance to properly test it. I’ll give a full review later.
First, let’s talk about megapixels. Do you need 40? If you crop deeply, print posters, or just love to pixel-peep, then maybe. But if you don’t crop deeply, don’t print posters, or don’t pixel-peep, then you definitely don’t need 40mp—it’s way overkill. Fortunately, it doesn’t seem to negatively affect the speed of the camera or even the file transfer speed when using the Fujifilm Cam Remote app. Unfortunately, it does take up more space on the SD Card, phone/computer, and storage, and uploads to my cloud storage are noticeably slower. There’s pluses and minuses to 40mp; I don’t anticipate the pluses coming in handy for me very often. For some of you, though, it is an important upgrade.
I haven’t put the autofocus improvements to the test whatsoever, but through three days of shooting, I haven’t noticed it being any more snappy than my X-E4. The only thing I noticed is that face detection locked onto a face that was far away, which I wouldn’t expect to happen on my X-E4. Since I wasn’t trying to photograph the person, it actually wasn’t a positive thing, but I can see this being an improvement. I haven’t even attempted continuous tracking or anything like that yet, so I can’t speak of it.
I was really excited for HEIF, but discovered that it disables Clarity. That’s disappointing. No HEIF for me, since I use Clarity a lot. Speaking of Clarity, I was also very disappointed that it isn’t any faster on the X-T5, and the Storing pause is identical to X-Trans IV. Fujifilm should have spent some time speeding this up, in my opinion. Oh, and somehow I keep bumping the drive switch, and accidentally switching to CL or HDR, both of which disable Clarity—I’ll have to figure out how to not bump that switch.
While the X-T5 is smaller than the X-T4, and just a little bigger than the X-T1 and X-T30, it is definitely heavy. Seems like a similar weight to the X-T4—not sure if it is or isn’t, but it’s hefty. I personally prefer the weight of the X-T1 or X-T30, but if you use large lenses a lot, you might appreciate the solid base of the X-T5.
The reason that I purchased the Fujifilm X-T5 is because this camera has the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. What do I think of it so far? If Eterna and Classic Chrome had a baby, it would be Nostalgic Negative. It has some similarities to both of those film simulations, with soft gradations in the shadows similar to Eterna and with some Eterna-like colors (particularly the warm colors), and with contrast, saturation, and an overall palette more similar to Classic Chrome. I’m not a huge fan of default straight-out-of-the-box Nostalgic Neg.—I was actually initially disappointed—but with some adjustments it can become magical. I love it! Nostalgic Neg. is another analog-esque film sim from Fujifilm that’s sure to become a classic. Expect some recipes soon!
I don’t have any other observations yet. I hope to do some more serious experimentations soon, and when I do I’ll share those impressions with you. In the meantime, here are some straight-out-of-camera Nostalgic Neg. pictures that I captured with my Fujifilm X-T5:
Two Ducks – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
311 – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Caution: Nature – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Believer – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Cat Clock – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dusk Blazer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spiderweb Rocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Don’t Shoot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Warning – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Golden Light Chair – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Red & Gold – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Going Out of Business – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hyundai – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Short Train – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Around the Bend – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Lakeview – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Log on the Lake – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Private Dock – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Can’t See the Forest – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Irrigation Mist – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
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