Problems with the Fuji X Weekly Website — A Message from the Webmaster

“I seem to have trouble loading your site and posting comments… Most comments never got through.”

-TheCameraEatsFirst

I’m not a web designer. I’m not an IT expert. I’m not a programmer. Yet, here I am, playing each of those roles.

I’m a photographer. That’s what I want to spend as much of my time as practical doing. I’m also a writer to an extent, which is something else that I enjoy doing. The Fuji X Weekly website is my outlet for both. I like helping other photographers, and am truly honored that my Film Simulation Recipes have had such an impact on so many and even the industry at large—it’s far more than I ever imagined!

Sometimes, though, I have to set my camera down, and be the Fuji X Weekly webmaster. Who came up with that name, anyway? Webmaster sounds so dramatic. Was it on Peter Parker’s shortlist, and after a coinflip he went with Spiderman instead? Surely it was an IT guy—his office was probably in a dark corner of a basement and he felt really under-appreciated for all his hard work maintaining some large company’s website—who coined the term, so that he might get more respect and maybe a pay raise.

Arizona Sunbeams – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1976 Kodak

When I first enrolled in college many, many years ago, I didn’t really know what I wanted my career to be. A lot of adults advised me to major in a technology field, like coding or engineering. So that’s what I did. In the very first semester I took this class called Computer Basics, which was mostly about how to use Word and PowerPoint and the internet, which was fairly young at that point—DPReview wouldn’t launch for several more months, and Ken Rockwell wasn’t even on the scene yet. The final project for that class was to write a simple DOS program, something like if you prompt it to answer 1+1 it would give you 2. I struggled so much, and passed the introductory-level class with a C. The very next semester I changed my major to photography.

Problems with the Fuji X Weekly website have been ongoing since it first launched on August 21, 2017. I’ve had to learn how to design a website, and to an extent how to code. I was suddenly a webmaster. I didn’t feel much like the master of the web, and I still don’t. I’ve learned so much about it over the years; however, I’m far from an expert. Mostly, I limp along, and hope that Google has the answer to whatever problems I’m trying to solve. YouTube University has been invaluable!

Lately, though, the problems have grown. It started several months back when I needed to upgrade hosting, because I was pushing the upper limits of the plan I was paying for. Unfortunately, what should have been a seamless switch wasn’t, and I was suddenly experiencing both small and big issues. Next, because my expenses expanded—for both the website and apps—I brought back ads, but through a different company that promised a better experience. That’s been a huge headache, and it hasn’t exactly gone well. I’m fighting to get the ads to be minimal, unobtrusive, relevant, and appropriate (yet cover the expenses)—it’s been a battle, and we’re still not there. I’m on the fence on how I’ll move forward with this. I’ve almost pulled the plug several times on the ads—and I still might—but I’m hoping to get it right at some point soon. I appreciate your patience with this.

Dramatic Sunset behind Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1976 Kodak

Some of the website problems are definitely significant. Probably the biggest one is that some people are experiencing an error, and the page won’t load. The message is “too many attempts” or “too many redirects” or something like that. I haven’t found the root of this issue, but clearing the cache and cookies has sometimes resolved it (so try that if you’re experiencing this problem). I don’t know why some people get this error while most don’t, or why clearing the cache is sometimes the fix. If any of you know the answer, please reach out to me, because I’d love to fix it.

Another issue that just recently came to my attention is that a lot of comments aren’t coming through. There are two aspects to this. First, I moderate the comments. Someone who has never commented before, or who has included a link to a website, will often get flagged for moderation. I get a lot of troll and spam comments that I don’t want published because it ruins the experience for everyone, so moderating these are important. This is my website, so I have the authority—and, really, obligation—to do this. Comments held for moderation haven’t changed as far as I can tell. The second aspect is that WordPress will flag obvious spam comments as spam. I get probably 100 of these type of comments each day, sometimes much more than that. Unfortunately, many non-spam comments are getting flagged as spam for some reason. I dug through the spam folder, and found intermixed with all the spam comments a handful of clearly not-spam comments, some by regular readers who have commented many times before. There are so many spam comments that it’s not practical to go very far back looking for the few non-spam that got flagged, but I know that I need to dig through it daily now. I’m really sorry if your comment didn’t come through. I don’t know why this happened or even when, but hopefully I’ll be able to find and approve all of the non-spam and non-troll comments going forward.

Are there other issues that I’m not aware of? I hope not, but I’m certain there are. Whenever I put on my webmaster cap, I do my best to fix them, but I cannot fix what I’m not aware is broken. If you’ve experienced some sort of issue, don’t hesitate to let me know—it’s greatly appreciated whenever someone does. And if you know how to fix the problem, please share with me the answer! I might technically be in the IT field, and I’ve certainly learned a heck-of-a-lot over the last six years, but I’m still in over his head on some of this stuff. Besides, I’d rather be out with my camera, capturing photos for next Film Simulation Recipe—especially during golden hour, when the light can be magical.

1976 Kodak — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

All the World’s a Summer Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1976 Kodak

The 1976 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe began as an attempt to recreate the aesthetic of legendary photographer Joel Meyerowitz, an American New Color photographer first known for serendipitous street photos of New York City. Meyerowitz has had one of the most prolific careers of any photographer, and he’s still active today at 85 years old! His look has been one of the most requested to replicate on Fujifilm cameras, so I eagerly delved into what exactly that is and how to mimic it.

One of the first roadblocks I encountered is that Joel Meyerowitz doesn’t have one unique style. His aesthetics vary significantly through the years. That shouldn’t be surprising because he’s on his seventh decade of photography. It’s well known that Meyerowitz used a lot of Kodachrome—in fact, he shot with all three eras of the film. In his early days it was the original ISO 10 Kodachrome, but very quickly that was replaced by Kodachome II and X; a significant chunk of his iconic street photography was captured during this time. Then Kodachrome 25 and 64 came along. All of those emulsions, while very similar, had their unique characteristics. I have a number of Film Simulation Recipes that can produce a Meyerowitz look because they replicate a film that he frequently used, including Vintage Kodachrome, Kodachrome 1, Kodachrome II (here, too), Kodachrome 25 (here, too), and Kodachrome 64 (here and here, too).

While Meyerowitz was known for Kodachrome, many of his most famous photographs were not captured on that film. He used Ektachrome sometimes for his 35mm work, and he used it extensively for his 8×10 large format photography. There have been over 40 different emulsions that carried the Ektachrome brand name, so it’s hard to know which specific ones he used. Some Ektachrome Film Simulation Recipes are Old Ektachrome, Kodak Ektachrome 100SW, Kodak Ektachrome E100VS, Ektachrome E100GX, Ektachrome, Ektachrome 320T, and Thommy’s Ektachrome. Some of these can probably be used to replicate a Meyerowitz look, too.

Closed Red Umbrella – Goodyear, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1976 Kodak

He didn’t just shoot with Kodachrome and Ektachrome, but also Anscochrome sometimes. He might have used other emulsions, too, it’s not real clear. One thing is for sure: whichever film he used, the emulsion wasn’t the finished picture, the print was (or the replication of the print in a book). Today, film is often scanned, and that’s how we see the photos captured with it, but for much of Meyerowitz’s career, the print (and not the scan) was what we saw. The printing process—the chemicals, the paper, and a host of other factors—could significantly affect the end result. That process changed and evolved over the decades. All of this is to say that no one Film Simulation Recipe will ever be able to replicate all of Joel’s various aesthetics. Probably not even ten Recipes. Aside from the ones already mentioned, 1970’s Summer and especially Summer of 1960 are a couple that could potentially produce a Meyerowitz look.

I studied about fifty of Joel’s photographs, mostly from the 1970’s. Some of them were urban street pictures, some were suburban or small-town images, and others were coastal photos. I looked for commonalities between the various pictures. I paid close attention to the lighting. I focused in on about two dozen that seemed similar enough, and tried to replicate the look with my Fujifilm X-T5. This 1976 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe was my sixth iteration. It’s not perfect, because, even within those 20+ similar Meyerowitz photographs, there are still some subtle differences. Aside from that, Fujifilm’s options, which are much more robust than they used to be, are still limited, and you can only do so much. Still, sometimes the resemblance between some of Joel’s pictures and the images captured with this Recipe are remarkable!

This Film Simulation Recipe got its name because the majority of the pictures that it is based on were captured in 1976. Some were 35mm and likely Kodachrome 25 and Kodachrome 64, but could also be Ektachrome-X and/or Ektachrome Pro 64, or even Anscochrome 64. Some were large format and likely Ektachrome Pro 64, Ektachrome 6118 Tungsten, and/or Ektachrome 160 Daylight, or even possibly Aschochrome 32. 1976 was a pivotal and transitional year for Joel Meyerowitz, as he began to explore landscapes and small-town life, particularly along the Massachusetts coast. He also began shooting with a large format Deardorff view camera. Since this was such an important year in Meyerowitz’s photographic journey, since many of the pictures that this Recipe was modeled after were captured in 1976, and because the vast majority of his photos were shot on Kodak film, I call this Recipe 1976 Kodak.

Two Birds – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1976 Kodak

The 1976 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe is quite versatile, and works well in many lighting situations and for many genres of photography. You might find it to be slightly overly warm in artificial light, but otherwise use it anytime. It’s compatible with Fujifilm X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, and X-S20. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too, although it will likely render slightly different (use it anyway!). Try this Recipe with a vintage lens to further replicate a retro aesthetic.

Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg.
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: Auto, -2 Red & -4 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +1.5
Shadow: +3
Color: +4
Sharpness: -2

High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this 1976 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Country Truck – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Truck being Photographed – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tonka Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Nissan Nature – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pro4X – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Campus – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Street Glimpse – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Leaf & Treats – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Evening Reflected in Glass – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dead Decorative Flowers – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Old Tricycle – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Two Red Chairs – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Locked Bike – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Circles of Life – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fountain Not Flowing – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Orange Pot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Mineral Discoloring – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Covered Promenade – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Curious Closed Curtain – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Office Abstract – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Plastic Green – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Joshua Waiting in a Blue Chair – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Photography is Life – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Friendly Neighborhood Spiderman – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Guitar Practice – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Happy – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Green Leaves Hiding Behind Gate – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Park Bench – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rainbow & Trumpets – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ceramic Tile Roof – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Home – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Date Palm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Distant Thunderstorm Building – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Uptown Snake – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Red Bell – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Green Soccer Field – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Scootering – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Rooftop at Dusk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Distant Sunset – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Pastel Sunset over Ball Field – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Foul Pole & Full Moon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Saguaro at Sundown – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Dramatic Sunset behind Saguaro – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Purple Sky – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset over School – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset Lit Cloud – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Fast Scooter at Night – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Basketball Moon – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Moon Through the Hoop – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Moonshot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment

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Why do we Still make B&W Photos?

Round Window – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100VKodak Tri-X 400 Recipe

The world is full of color, so why would one want to photograph in black-and-white? It’s so old-fashioned anyway. Are there any good reasons to make monochrome pictures in 2023?

In 1826, the first photograph was captured by Joseph Nicéphore Niépce in France. It was black-and-white because the first process was B&W. But then in 1861 the first color picture was made by James Clerk Maxwell and Thomas Sutton in Scotland. That should have been the end of B&W photos, right? Actually, color photography didn’t catch on for a very long time because the process to create them was much more complex than B&W, and their color reproduction not particularly accurate. Kodak launched Kodachrome slide film in 1935, which was the first reasonably accurate color process. That should have been the end of B&W, but it wasn’t. In fact, many photographers shunned color photography, and derided it as for amateurs. Black-and-white was for the serious, while color was not.

The New American Color movement of the 1960’s and ’70’s is really what made color photography an acceptable art form. It challenged the idea that “real” photography was only in monochrome. Color images could be just as good as, or perhaps even better than, B&W pictures. It revolutionized photography.

Epic Zip Line – Sundance, UT – Fujifilm X100F – Agfa Scala Recipe

That was so long ago. Color photography is the norm now, not black-and-white. Your digital camera captures a color picture, and you have to convert it to B&W if you want to see in shades of grey. B&W has become a niche of sorts.

So why should you shoot black-and-white photographs in 2023? What reasons are there, other than nostalgia for a time long gone? I love B&W photography, so let me offer a few to you.

Black-and-white pictures are abstract by nature. They’re not faithful reproductions of the world as we see it. Because it is abstract, the photographer is invited to capture the scene in a unique way, with a vision that is dissimilar to, and perhaps even the opposite of, reality. It’s not so much about what the scene is, but about how we see the scene through a divergent eye, and how we can express that to the viewer. It’s a timeless approach to fine-art photography.

The strength of color photographs is color, but it’s also its weakness. When color works within a color theory—perhaps contrasting or harmonious—it can create an especially dramatic or beautiful picture; however, when the colors within an image work against each other, it can be a distraction. B&W photos remove the distraction of color, allowing the viewer to see the important elements without color fighting for their attention—it’s the art of subtraction.

Playing with Waves – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe

Black-and-white photography is about light and shadow. It’s about contrast. It’s about shape. Texture. Pattern. Space. Emotion. Those are very important elements to color photography, too, but they’re even more critical to B&W pictures. Mastering monochrome will make you a better photographer, even for your color work.

Fujifilm cameras are particularly great for black-and-white photography thanks to their wonderful film simulations: Monochrome and especially Acros. Many different Film Simulation Recipes can be made using these as the base, with a wide variety of characteristics. Pick one that looks interesting to you, and shoot with it for a day or two to see what you get. My personal favorite is Kodak Tri-X 400, but there are so many that are really good, it’s hard to go wrong with any of them.

Whether you’ve been shooting black-and-white for decades and decades, or if you never have before but are interested, I invite you to join myself and Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry as we discuss B&W photography in-depth on SOOC Live this Thursday, August 3rd, at 10:00 AM Pacific Time, 1:00 PM Eastern. I’ve included it below so that you can easily find in on Thursday.

If you missed last Thursday’s SOOC Live broadcast, where Nathalie and I finished our discussion of travel photography, be sure to watch it now. I’ve included it below, or visit the SOOC Live YouTube Channel. Also, if you haven’t seen the Viewers’ Images slideshow (your pictures!), I’ve added that to the bottom of this article—be sure to watch!

Top 7 Best Nostalgic Neg. Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm X-Trans V Cameras

Duck Pond – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer Recipe

The new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation found only on the latest Fujifilm cameras is becoming quite popular! A lot of people really seem to love the aesthetic of it. All X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, and X-S20, have Nostalgic Neg., as well as a couple of GFX cameras (GFX100S and GFX50S II). Classic Chrome is the most-used film sim by a large margin, followed distantly by Classic Negative and Acros, but currently there’s a lot of interest in the new option.

According to Fujifilm, Nostalgic Neg. is based on “American New Color” photography of the 1970’s. They studied photographs by William Eggleston, Stephen Shore, Joel Sternfeld, and Richard Misrach in order to create it. Eggleston and Sternfeld largely shot on Kodachrome—II and X in the early 1970’s, 25 and 64 in the late ’70’s—while Shore shot mostly Kodacolor, and Misrach shot a lot of Vericolor. All of those are Kodak emulsions, but with different aesthetics. These four photographers had different styles and different darkroom processes, and they each had a unique look; the commonality that Fujifilm found was an “overall atmosphere based on amber.” That’s a basic explanation of what the new film simulation is. While not mentioned by Fujifilm, I think Nostalgic Neg. also has some similarities to photographs by Saul Leiter and Joel Meyerowitz. Leiter used a whole bunch of different films over the years, including Kodachrome and Anscochrome, but apparently he didn’t mind using generic drug store brands, either. Meyerowitz mostly shot a mix of Kodachrome and Ektachrome for his color work. Nostalgic Negative is a divergent approach for Fujifilm, I think, in that it is not intended to mimic a certain emulsion (or the “memory color” of a specific film stock), but instead tries to mimic the “memory color” of a certain decade (the 1970’s), or perhaps simply elicit a nostalgic emotional response.

A lot of various looks can be made using the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. Because it is largely intended to mimic a retro Kodak aesthetic, it’s a good starting point for Kodak-esque Film Simulation Recipes. While some of my Recipes that use Nostalgic Neg. are intended to replicate a specific stock, most of them are not, and instead are more reminiscent of a certain time or era instead of a specific emulsion; however, some of those were made from studying pictures captured on specific films, so they do tend to resemble actual film stocks to an extent.

I get asked which Nostalgic Neg. Film Simulation Recipe one should try first on their X-Trans V camera. There are plenty to choose from, and the list is growing. Since your camera has seven custom presets (with the exception of the X-S20, which only has four), I would like to suggest the seven Nostalgic Neg. Recipes below. Choose one or two or even all seven to program into your camera, and give it a try! I bet at least one of them will become a new favorite Film Simulation Recipe that you find yourself using often.

1970’s Summer

Vulture City Entrance – Vulture City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer

The 1970’s Summer Film Simulation Recipe very much has a nostalgic Kodak “memory color” (as Fujifilm likes to say) that is reminiscent of old color photographs from the 1970’s. You might notice some similarities to William Eggleston’s Election Eve and 2 1/4 series and some of his other work from the late-1960’s through the mid-1970’s—not every picture, but certainly several. You might spot some similarities between this look and some of Stephen Shore’s photographs from the early-to-mid 1970’s. I think there are some similarities to a few of Joel Sternfeld’s American Prospects pictures. There’s a noticeable likeness to several of Richard Misrach’s desert photographs. In other words, 1970’s Summer produces a distinct American New Color aesthetic with a clear 1970’s vibe. This recipe works best in sunny daylight, and is excellent for midday photography.

Going Out of Business – Prescott, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
Short Train – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer
More Than Double Wide – Arlington, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – 1970’s Summer

Summer of 1960

Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960

I found the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways in a used bookstore. It has page after page of amazing photography! I really love the look of the pictures in this particular issue—while not every image looks alike, there is definitely a commonality to the photo aesthetic. For those who don’t know, Arizona Highways is a magazine with an important history. It began in 1925, and in 1946 published the world’s first all-color publication. From the beginning, Arizona Highways has been dedicated to the art of photography. Ansel Adams was a regular contributor. Barry Goldwater, Ray Manley, Chuck Abbott, David and Josef Muench, Ed Ellinger, Esther Henderson, and many other talented photographers were often featured. The publication is full of wonderful images even to this day. While it is not purely a photography magazine, Arizona Highways is a publication that photographers love due to their passion for the medium.

The vast majority of the pictures in the December 1960 issue were captured on Ektachrome, and fair number were shot on Kodachrome. While it was the December issue, most of the photographs had been captured that previous summer. The Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe mimics the aesthetic of the those images, including the magazine photo below, made by Chuck Abbott in July 1960 using Kodachrome.

Agaves in 1960 – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
Saguaro Spines – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960
Agua Caliente Pond – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Summer of 1960

Emulsion ’86

Dreary Beach – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86

When I was six-years-old, my family and I went to Expo ’86 World’s Fair in Vancouver, Canada. Not long ago I found many old pictures of that event—personal, in books, and online. The Emulsion ’86 Film Simulation Recipe is highly reminiscent of some of those photographs, producing a nostalgic analog aesthetic that is similar to some pictures from the mid-1980’s (presumably primarily Kodak emulsions). While it is a good option for sunny daylight photography, I especially like how this one looks on dreary overcast days.

Old California Architecture – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
Don’t Climb on the Bikes – Oceanside, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86
Pink Blossom Bush – San Diego, CA – Fujifilm X-T5 – Emulsion ’86

Kodak Negative

Desert Fence – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative

The Kodak Negative Film Simulation Recipe isn’t intended to mimic any specific emulsions; instead it has a “memory color” similar to some Kodak films, like Royal Gold, Gold 100, and Ektar 100. It’s not an exact match to any of those, but just in the general ballpark with a warm and vibrant Kodak color negative film palette. Because it uses Auto White Balance, the Kodak Negative Recipe is fairly versatile and can be used for many subjects and lighting situations.

Three Oranges – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative
Lake Lamp – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative
Water & Reflection – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Negative

Thommy’s Ektachrome

Backlit Lupine – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome

Thommy’s Ektachrome was made by  Thomas Schwab, who was simply trying to make a Recipe using the Nostalgic Neg. film sim that would be good for portraits. The Recipe he created has a distinctive Ektachrome aesthetic, especially similar to National Geographic photographs prior to Ektachrome’s discontinuation by 2013 (prior to the revival in 2018). That was, of course, by chance and not intentional, but there certainly are some similarities. This Recipe is not only good for portraits, but also landscapes and I’m sure many genres of photography. Thommy’s Ektachrome does particularly well in sunny daylight, but is good for overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.

Way Over That Way – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Wildflower Spring – Sun City, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome
Historic Ranch House – Tucson, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Thommy’s Ektachrome

Nostalgia Negative

Lynx Lake Overlook – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative

I wasn’t trying to emulate any specific film or process when I created the Nostalgia Negative Film Simulation Recipe, I just wanted something that looked good. This was my very first X-Trans V Recipe, and it was simply an attempt to create a better Nostalgic Neg. than just using the default settings. I hoped that perhaps it would even evoke feelings of nostalgia with a vintage analog-like aesthetic.

Two Ducks – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative
311 – Lynx Lake, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative
Don’t Shoot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgia Negative

Timeless Negative

Soft Rose – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative

The creators of the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation stated, “Nostalgic Negative is tuned for the best allrounder settings, but if you want to tweak it to get that classic American New Color look from the ’70’s, there are some adjustments you should make.” This Timeless Negative Film Simulation Recipe is a tweak to Fujifilm’s recommended settings, bringing it closer to a ’70’s vibe. This particular Recipe is especially versatile, and can be used for many different genres of photography and in various light conditions—it’s good for anytime of the day or night.

Dark Coffee – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative
Evening Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative
UnAmerican Experience – Williams, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Timeless Negative

Comparison

1970’s Summer
Summer of 1960
Emulsion ’86
Kodak Negative
Thommy’s Ektachrome
Nostalgia Negative
Timeless Neagative

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment

Pushed CineStill 800T — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

July Bougainvillea – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Pushed CineStill 800T

CineStill 800T is a Kodak Tungsten-balanced motion picture film (specifically, Vision3 500T) that has had the Remjet layer removed so that it can be processed in C41 chemistry. It’s intended for use in indoor artificial light and at night (but could be used anytime with the appropriate color correction filter). Awhile back I found some examples of CineStill 800T that had been shot during the day in overcast conditions and had been push-processed. I liked the picture aesthetics, so I set out to recreate it.

While this Film Simulation Recipe is intended for daytime photography (particularly on overcast days), it does really well at night, too. For the after-dark pictures in this article, I used a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter, but a 10% or 20% might have been more appropriate for replicating the emulsion. I do recommend the use of a diffusion filter for nighttime photography when shooting with this Recipe.

Mellow Mushroom – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Pushed CineStill 800T

This Pushed CineStill 800T Recipe isn’t new, but simply a modification of the X-Trans IV version for use on X-Trans V cameras. Because X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, a tweak to Color Chrome FX Blue—selecting Weak instead of Strong—was necessary for my Fujifilm X-T5. This Film Simulation Recipe isn’t for everyone or every situation, but some of you will really appreciate it for certain pictures.

Film Simulation: Eterna Bleach Bypass
Grain Effect: Strong, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: 7700K, -9 Red & +5 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -0.5
Shadow: +1.5
Color: +3
Sharpness: 0

High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Pushed CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Flower Stems in Colored Water – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Playing Video Games – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Flowers on a Dreary Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Birdcage Wall – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Cage – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Green Tree on a Blue Day – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Suburban Grey – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Street Train – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hand Signal – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spin – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Ice – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hair Chairs – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Mellow Mushroom Pizza – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

8 Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes for Those Hot Summer Nights

Tattoo & Turkish Pizza – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Xpro ’62

It’s summer and it’s hot. I live in Arizona, so when I say it’s hot, I mean that it feels like someone opened an oven door! Nobody wants to be outside during the day right now, so (like vampires) everyone comes out at night. Not that it’s all that much cooler at dusk—it’s still triple digits—but at least it’s more bearable. While it’s easy to look at the negative side of things, the positive aspect to the excessive heat is that opportunities for night photography are plentiful.

A few days ago I took my Fujifilm X-T5 to downtown Tempe for some after-dark photography. Attached to the camera was a Meike 35mm f/1.7 lens, and I had a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter screwed onto it. I like the Meike lens for its vintage-like character. I chose the 5% CineBloom because its effect is subtle. While the 10% or 20% might have been more appropriate for a couple of the Film Simulation Recipes, overall I appreciate what the 5% CineBloom does to the photographs, which is not much yet oftentimes just enough.

I programmed into my Fujifilm X-T5 eight different Film Simulation Recipes, and shot with all of them. How was I able to program eight? Well, obviously, there’s C1-C7. On the X-T5 (as well as my X-E4 and a few other newer models), you can program an additional Recipe into the IQ menu. As you scroll through C1-C7, when you’re in-between C7 and C1, the camera will display the shooting mode (either P, A, S, or M, depending on the configuration of your dials), and it will select the settings programmed into the IQ menu, giving you a bonus eighth custom preset.

I didn’t walk all that far with my camera—going down a few blocks on one side of the road, and then back up on the other side. It was dark, but still blazing hot. I did manage to capture a whole bunch of pictures, making sure that I had at least six decent exposures with each Recipe. Afterwards I cooled off with an ice cream shake at In-N-Out, a nice treat to beat the heat.

If you are searching for some Film Simulation Recipes to try out on a hot summer night, take a look at the eight below. They’re certainly not the only ones that are good for after-dark photography, but they are all excellent options, and have their own unique aesthetics. These eight Recipes are the ones that I used, and I invite you to try them, too, the next time you go out for some night photography.

Fujicolor Super HG v2

Boat Shack at Sunset – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2

Fujicolor Super HG v2 is a highly versatile Film Simulation Recipe that—because it uses the Auto White Priority white balance—you can use anytime of the day or night. This is a Recipe that makes a lot of sense to always have programmed into your camera, since, no matter the light scenario, it’s going to give you good results. There’s an X-Trans V version of Fujicolor Super HG v2 (for those with an X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, or X-S20), and an X-Trans IV version of this Recipe (for those with an X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II).

Ektachrome 320T

Three Empty Seats – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Ektachrome 320T

While the previous Recipe used Auto White Priority, Ektachrome 320T uses Auto Ambiance Priority, but don’t let that fool you: this Recipe is intended for use at night or indoors under artificial light, where it works very well. Ektachrome 320T is compatible with some X-Trans IV models that have the Eterna Bleach Bypass film simulation (X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II); to use it on X-Trans V, simply set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong, since X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations.

Expired ECN-2 100T

Bokeh Behind Chainlink – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Expired ECN-2 100T

Expired ECN-2 100T is currently a Fuji X Weekly App Patron Early-Access Recipe. If you are a subscriber on the App, you have access to this Film Simulation Recipe; otherwise, you’ll have to wait a little while for it to become available to everyone. This particular Recipe produces a green or yellow cast (depending on the light) when used at night, and a teal-ish cast when used in daylight. Like the previous Recipe, this one is compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras; to use it on X-Trans V models, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.

Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled

Daily Jam at Night – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled

Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled isn’t intended specifically as a Film Simulation Recipe for nighttime photography, but because it is so versatile it works really well for this. It has a low-contrast, low-saturation rendering with an earthy cast. It’s really good for toning down a scene when you’d prefer a softer picture. Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.

Xpro ’62

Low Key Photo – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Xpro ’62

When I first learned that Xpro ’62 was great for after-dark photography, I was actually a little surprised, because this is intended as a daylight Recipe, and on paper it doesn’t seem versatile enough to be a good nighttime option. But it’s absolutely wonderful for night images! If you’ve never tried Xpro ’62 for post-sunset pictures, be sure to do so. It’s compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.

CineStill 800T

Quiet Corner – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – CineStill 800T

The CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe is specifically intended for night photography, so it should be no surprise that it does well for after-dark pictures. If you want to even more closely mimic the film, try it with a 10% or 20% CineBloom diffusion filter. Like the previous two Recipes, CineStill 800T is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II, but not the X-T3 or X-T30); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong. There is a version for X-Trans III cameras plus the X-T3 and X-T30, and a version for X-Trans II models.

Pushed CineStill 800T

Mellow Mushroom – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Pushed CineStill 800T

The Pushed CineStill 800T Recipe is actually modeled after some pictures of the film that were captured in daylight on an overcast day. This Recipe wasn’t necessarily purposefully intended for night photography, but it shouldn’t be surprising that it does well for it. It also shouldn’t be too surprising that it renders noticeably different than the CineStill 800T Recipe above. Pushed CineStill 800T is compatible with X-Trans IV cameras that have Eterna Bleach Bypass (X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II; however, there is a version for the X-Pro3 and X100V); to use it on X-Trans V cameras, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.

Serr’s 500T

Neon Red – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Serr’s 500T

Last but far from least is Serr’s 500T, which is one of my absolute favorite nighttime Film Simulation Recipes. Due to its strong blue cast, this one is especially great for countering warm artificial light. Serr’s 500T is compatible with most X-Trans IV cameras (X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II); to use it on X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak instead of Strong.

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Meike 35mm f/1.7:  Amazon   B&H

Fujicolor Super HG v2 — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Boat Shack at Sunset – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2

Fujifilm introduced the Super HG line in 1986, with ISO versions between 100 and 1600. It saw several iterations and improvements before Fujifilm replaced it with the Superia line is 1998. This Fujicolor Super HG v2 recipe produces results similar to Super HG 100 or Super HG 200 film. One film can have many different looks depending on how it was shot, developed, and printed or scanned, so this Recipe won’t match every image from the emulsion, but it is definitely in the general ballpark of the film.

This isn’t a new Recipe, but rather a slight modification of an X-Trans IV Recipe for use on X-Trans V cameras. The X-Trans IV version of Fujicolor Super HG v2 was a collaboration between myself and Thomas Schwab, but he did most of the work on it, and I only contributed a little. Because X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, a tweak to Color Chrome FX Blue—selecting Weak instead of Strong—was necessary for my Fujifilm X-T5.

Bridge to Nowhere – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Super HG v2

Because this Recipe uses the Auto White Priority white balance, it is extremely versatile. It would be like having a whole case full of various color correction filters for your film back in the day, except now you don’t need to carry around a bunch of filters. Use this Recipe anytime of the day or night! As of this writing, this version of Fujicolor Super HG v2 is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, and X-S20 cameras. The X-Trans IV version is compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II models. If you have a newer GFX model, you can try this or the original iteration—I’m not certain which is most appropriate, so maybe try both and see which one you like better.

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain Effect: Weak, Large
Color Chrome Effect: Weak
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: Auto White Priority, -3 Red & -1 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -1
Shadow: +1
Color: +2
Sharpness: 0

High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: +2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor Super HG v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Bougainvillea Arm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bored Boy Tossing Football – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Potted Palm – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water Angels – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Zenefits – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bow – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sidewalk – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Resting Cat – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Stone Fencepost – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Empty Adirondack – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Sunset over Black Ridge – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Birds not of a Feather – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Double-Double – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Corner of 6th – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment

Find this Film Simulation Recipe and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Getting that ’90’s Film Look with Fujifilm Cameras

Captured with a Fujifilm X100V + Kodak Max 800 Recipe + 10% CineBloom filter + Flash

A lot of people are interested right now in achieving a 1990’s film look. If you’re unfamiliar, the specific aesthetic is that of cheap 35mm point-and-shoot and disposable cameras. You know, the 4″ x 6″ prints from the 1-hour photo lab that’s in your (or your parent’s) photo album or picture box. If you are older than 25 (and maybe as young as 20) there might be some nostalgia associated with this look. If you own a Fujifilm model, it’s not too difficult to achieve the ’90’s film aesthetic straight-out-of-camera.

While Kodak was king of film, a surprisingly significant extent of this aesthetic was influenced by Fujifilm. There are a few key reasons for this.

First, Fujifilm’s QuickSnap disposable cameras were a huge hit, and Kodak was often playing catch-up with their FunSaver line. While both were really popular, odds are that if you are looking at a disposable camera picture, it was captured on a QuickSnap, which often used a Fujicolor Superia film.

Second, for those pictures captured on reloadable point-and-shoot cameras, while Kodak sold more film, Fujifilm sold a heck-of-a-lot, too. The majority of pictures were likely shot on Kodak emulsions, but a very large chunk were captured with Fujicolor film.

Third, a lot of 1-hour photo labs used Fujifilm’s machines, chemicals, and paper. Even if the film was Kodak, Fujifilm still had an influence in the final picture aesthetic. The majority of snap-shooters in the 1990’s in the U.S. were dropping their film off at cheap labs inside drug stores or box stores, such as (for example) Walmart. Because Fujifilm sold their photo development equipment and supplies at a slightly lower price than Kodak, many of these labs went with Fujifilm over Kodak. Also, if you had the film scanned by the 1-hour lab (and placed on a CD), it was likely done with a Frontier scanner by Fujifilm.

If you want to recreate this ’90’s film aesthetic on your Fujifilm camera, the best starting point is the Classic Negative film simulation, because it is closely based off of Fujicolor Superia film. Any Film Simulation Recipe that uses Classic Negative as the base is going to get you halfway there. For those who own a Fujifilm camera that doesn’t have Classic Negative (X-Trans III and older, plus X-T3 & X-T30), look for Recipes with Classic Chrome (such as Kodak Gold 200 and Kodacolor) for a retro Kodak look or PRO Neg. Std (such as Fujicolor Superia 800 and Fujicolor 100 Industrial) for a Fujicolor look.

I shot with 10 different Film Simulation Recipes that use Classic Negative as the base for this article. As of this writing, there are over 45 Recipes that use Classic Negative, so there are many more to choose from—just because I didn’t use a particular Recipe here doesn’t mean that it wouldn’t work well or that you shouldn’t try it (finding Classic Negative Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App is easy for Patron subscribers). I do think these 10 are all good options, and they produce a variety of characteristics. Some are more contrasty and some less. Some are more warm and others more cool. Some are more vibrant and some less so. Take a look at each, and if you are drawn more to the pictures in a particular Recipe, give that one a try for yourself.

10 Film Simulation Recipes

Kodak Max 800

Fujicolor Analog

Fujicolor Superia 100

Superia Premium 400

Fujicolor Superia 1600

Fujicolor Natura 1600

Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled

Pulled Fujicolor Superia

Nostalgia Color

Agfa Ultra 100

Gear

Fujifilm X100V

We discussed Film Simulation Recipes before talking about gear because choosing the right Recipe is more critical than the gear you use. With that said, gear is important, too. One critical component is flash. While not all ’90’s film snapshots were captured using a flash, a lot were, and so it has become associated closely with the aesthetic. I used flash in all of the Recipe example pictures above.

The Fujifilm X100V has a great fill-flash built into the camera, making it an ideal choice for this style. It also has a leaf shutter, which makes flash photography much easier. There are other Fujifilm cameras that also have a flash and leaf shutter, such as the X100F, X70, and XF10 (to name a few), but the X100V is the only one that also has Classic Negative.

One problem with using the X100V is that the fixed lens is too good. It’s not really believable as a ’90’s point-and-shoot (although there are some examples that have high-quality glass). To tone it down a little, I used a 10% CineBloom diffusion filter, which helps to produce a more analog-like rendering.

When using the Fujifilm X100V, choose the Classic Negative Recipe of your preference, screw a diffusion filter onto the lens (you’ll need an adapter if you don’t have one already), and turn the flash On (TTL). You’re now good to go!

Fujifilm X-E4 + Lens + Flash

Of course, you don’t need a camera with a built-in flash to do this. My Fujifilm X-E4 doesn’t have a flash, for example, but by attaching an external unit, such as my Godox Lux Junior, to the hot-shoe on top of the camera, I can now do flash photography. This is a lot trickier than using the X100V, and takes some practice if you don’t have experience with a flash, but it is certainly one way to do it.

What I do appreciate about this approach is that the camera is interchangeable-lens, which means you can use a more lofi option, such as the 7Artisans 18mm f/6.3 II. This is softer glass with strong vignetting, and perhaps not one you’d use much for other purposes; however, for replicating the aesthetic of a cheap point-and-shoot it is great!

Combining the Fujifilm X-E4 with the 7Artisan 18mm f/6.3 II lens and using the Godox Lux Junior flash is an affective way to replicate a ’90’s film aesthetic. All of the Fujicolor Analog and Agfa Ultra 100 examples above were captured with this combination, as well as some of the other pictures. If you don’t have a built-in flash on your Fujifilm camera, this is a good way to achieve the look.

While the picture quality from cheap point-and-shoot and disposable cameras were not considered great, this is how many important memories and ordinary life moments where captured in the 1990’s. Many people look back with fondness on these photographs. The image aesthetics conjure up nostalgic feelings, so it should not be too surprising that this look is currently in-style. You can achieve it yourself on your Fujifilm camera without much fuss—it’s mostly just choosing the right Film Simulation Recipe and turning the flash on.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X100V — Amazon   B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-E4 — Amazon   B&H  Moment
7Artisans 18mm f/6.3 II — Amazon   B&H
Godox Lux Junior — Amazon   B&H

Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.

Report: Fujifilm X100Z to be Released in Early 2024 — Now Let’s Dream

Fujirumors is reporting that the Fujifilm X100V successor, which I’m calling the X100Z, will be announced in early 2024 (and they’re almost always right). Going by previous models, that means Fujifilm will announce the camera in either late-January or early-February, and it will likely ship in late-February or early-March.

That’s good news, especially if you’ve been trying to get an X100V but just can’t. Reinforcements are coming soon enough, and the wait will be over before you know it.

Here are some issues, though. If you’ve been patiently waiting for an X100V, and you’ve been on a backorder list for months and months—are you going to be happy when your X100V ships just a little prior to the announcement of the new model? The X100V is great, so I hope that the timing won’t sour your opinions or experience, but it might. Or this: will those on the waitlist for the X100V be given priority for the X100Z? Let’s say you’ve been waiting six months for your X100V and it hasn’t shipped. Suddenly the X100Z is announced. Will the store offer to bump you to the top of the preorder list for the new model? I know of one store that told me this will be their plan. Is it fair to those who don’t have an X100V on backorder but who preorder the X100Z within minutes of its announcement, but can’t get their camera shipped timely because others jumped the line from the X100V? It could be that you’ll have to cancel your long-awaited order and place a new one for the new camera, getting in a whole different line, possibly not at the top. Is that fair? I don’t have any answers, I’m just posing the questions—it’s something that Fujifilm and camera stores will have to carefully consider and tread lightly with.

I don’t know what Fujifilm will call the next X100-series model, but I’m betting on X100Z. Why? First, it sounds cool. Second, “Z” (Zeta) is the sixth letter in the Greek alphabet, and this will be the sixth iteration of the camera. Third, Fujifilm used Z in some of their film emulsion names, such as Fujicolor Pro 800Z. It makes a lot of sense to me, so that’s why I think it’s what they’ll choose. But I have no idea.

I don’t believe Fujifilm will bring very many changes to the new model. The X100-series doesn’t evolve much. I do believe it will include the 40-megapixel X-Trans V sensor and processor. Some want the 26mp stacked sensor of the X-H2s, and some want the X-Trans IV sensor of the X100V. While anything is possible, I would be pretty darn surprised if it isn’t the 40-megapixel sensor. Due to the fixed-focal-length limitation, having more resolution offers more versatility. Also, Fujifilm could give us the X-Pan 65:24 aspect ratio (Fujifilm: hint, hint)….

Speaking of that, the Digital Teleconverters will benefit from the 40mp sensor, and Fujifilm could even include a third option, something like 80mm or possibly 85mm. I hope, though, that they fix the problem of the faux Grain not scaling. As it is now, the Grain appears huge when using the 70mm Digital Teleconverter; however, it should scale so that it is the same size as when not using the Digital Teleconverter.

Another potential benefit of the 40mp sensor would be digital image stabilization for video. Some sort of hyper-smooth digital cropping that still renders 4K would make the camera more useful for videography. I know that a lot of people want IBIS, but I’d be surprised if Fujifilm put it into this model. Who knows, maybe they will (and it would certainly make the new model an upgrade), but if I were betting money, I’d say that the X100Z doesn’t have IBIS.

I think bringing back the four-way D-Pad on the back would be a nice touch. I believe that Fujifilm was trying to move away from it, but there was a lot of outcry from the community. That’s something Fujifilm could do to differentiate the X100Z from the X100V and make a lot of people happy.

I suspect that whatever part or parts Fujifilm was having difficulty securing in order to manufacture more copies of the X100V, will be replaced by some alternative(s) that will more easily be available. How that affects the camera, I have no idea. Maybe a slightly different rear LCD? I’m sure I’m in the minority here, but I’d actually prefer no rear screen, or maybe just the little box-top rear screen like on the X-Pro3. Maybe a slightly different viewfinder? Whatever it is, I’m sure there will be something different that allows the camera to be more readily produced.

The most obvious thing that Fujifilm could do—and they absolutely should do—with the X100Z is introduce a new film simulation. I don’t know if Fujifilm realizes just how important film sims and Film Simulation Recipes are for camera sales and customer retention. If they do end up naming the camera X100Z, then a Fujicolor Pro 800Z-inspired (maybe called PRO Neg. Z) film sim would make a lot of sense; otherwise, Fujicolor Pro 400H (that with overexposure behaves similarly to the film), Fujichrome Sensia, Fujichrome Fortia, cross-process, infrared, Instax, and Neopan 400CN are a few other ideas. Obviously, Eterna Bleach Bypass and Nostalgia Neg. will also be included in the new camera.

Beyond that, I don’t think there will be a whole lot of differences between the X100V and X100Z. They will be much more alike than dissimilar. I said, though, that we were going to dream, so let’s throw some wild ideas out there, and see if any of them happen to come to pass.

My first wild idea is that Fujifilm uses an APS-H sensor instead of APS-C. I have no idea if the camera’s lens has APS-H coverage—my guess is that it does not—but if by chance it does, I believe that the current 40mp chip cut to APS-H size would be about 60mp (that may not be accurate… let me know if I got my calculation wrong). The 1.3 crop factor would make the lens 30mm full-frame equivalent. On paper the X100Z would be more similar to the Leica Q3, but at a fraction of the cost—it would be the Q3 killer!

Next, an interesting idea someone suggested was that the IR filter, which normally is directly on the sensor, could be moved next to the ND filter, and—like the ND filter—it could be enabled and disabled. In other words, with the push of a button, your X100Z could convert to full-spectrum! The lens has, apparently, an IR hot-spot in the center, but maybe it’s something Fujifilm could correct in-camera (similar to vignetting). It’s a crazy idea, but would be super cool!

I mentioned IBIS already, stating that I don’t think it’s likely to happen, but if Fujifilm can include it on the X100Z with minimal effect on size, weight, heat, and cost, that would be amazing! I hope they can, but I doubt they will. We can dream, though, right?

Of course, I’d love to see a monochrome-only version. If Fujifilm doesn’t do it with an X100-series body, they should do it with an X-Pro model. In other words, Fujifilm should definitely make an Acros-version of one of their cameras, and the X100 is a logical option.

How about three different versions, each with a different focal length? Sigma did something like this with their DP line. There could be 18mm, 23mm, and 33mm options, each identical, except for the focal length.

Fujifilm could also make special edition models, like Dura Silver or brown leather or something like that. It would have to be really well done and not cheesy. Charge a little extra for these variations.

That’s all I have. What crazy ideas can you think of for the upcoming X100Z (or whatever Fujifilm will call it)? Let me know in the comments!

Creative Collective 051: 7 Recipes for July 4th

Firework over Super Moon – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Ultramax 400 – 70mm Digital Teleconverter

July 4th is an American holiday, often celebrated with family, fireworks, watermelon, and barbecues. I chose to document the day with my Fujifilm X100V loaded with seven Film Simulation Recipes, each picked for a specific reason. I made a point to try all seven throughout the day, and especially during the fireworks show. Let’s take a look at how that worked out!

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Answers to the 10 Most Common Fujifilm How-To Questions

Because I’m one of the more knowledgable people in the Fujifilm community when it comes to the ins and outs of camera settings, I’m constantly asked how-to type questions. I’m always happy to help, but I have to say, most of the time the answers are easily found in the owner’s manual. You mean that boring technical book packaged with my camera? Yes, exactly. Thankfully, Fujifilm has made them available online, and most of the manuals are easily navigated and even searchable. Digging into the owner’s manual for your camera has never been easier. Can’t find the answer with a Google search? I bet you can find it in the manual pretty quickly and painlessly. That really should be everyone’s starting point.

Not everyone will look through the manual, or maybe you did and still can’t find the answer. I decided to take this opportunity to answer the 10 most common how-to questions that I receive. Maybe you are searching for the answer and Google brought you here. My hope is that this article will be helpful to some of you as you’re trying to figure things out on your Fujifilm camera.

1. How to program a Film Simulation Recipe

I’m most known for Film Simulation Recipes—I have published pretty darn close to 300, which you can find on this website and the Fuji X Weekly App—so it shouldn’t be surprising that I’m asked about it the most. Programming Film Simulation Recipes into your Fujifilm camera is easy, once you’ve done it once or twice. While the process is similar across the range, not every camera is exactly the same, so you’ll want to review the Image Quality (IQ) Menu section of your manual, and also Edit/Save Custom Settings (not all Fujifilm cameras have this, but most do).

More than two years ago I published an article explaining how to program Film Simulation Recipes into your Fujifilm camera. That might be a good place to start, but not everyone learns well by reading. You might be just as confused afterwards as you were before. Thankfully, Scott Dawson made a video walking you through the process of programming a Recipe. Between my article, Scott’s video, and your camera’s manual, you shouldn’t have too much trouble with this one.

Sometimes that’s not enough, so here’s the quick answer: if your camera has C1-C7 (or C1-C4) Custom Presets (most models do, but the Bayer models and a couple of the really old cameras don’t), press the Q-button, then press-and-hold the Q-button, and the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu will appear (except on a couple of the really old models). That’s where you can enter the parameters (or most of the parameters) of a Recipe. Alternatively, and for those cameras without C1-C7, you can enter the parameters by pressing Menu/OK, then adjusting the appropriate settings, which are found in the IQ subset.

You should now be good to go. Once you’ve done it a few times, it will be a piece of cake.

2. How to resolve Clarity greyed out

The 1981 Kodak Recipe uses minus Clarity

This is simple: the drive mode must be set to Single frame (S) in order to use Clarity. Your camera will disable Clarity for any continuous shooting (burst) mode, HDR, or bracket. If you find Clarity greyed out, set your camera’s drive mode to Single frame (S).

3. How to fix DR200 or DR400 not available

This is another simple answer: the Dynamic Range options are ISO dependent. If DR200 and/or DR400 are not available, simply increase the ISO. For X-Trans III and older, a minimum ISO of 400 is required for DR200 and a minimum ISO of 800 is required for DR400. For X-Trans IV, ISO 320 is required for DR200 and ISO 640 is required for DR400. For X-Trans V, ISO 250 is required for DR200 and ISO 500 is required for DR400. Make sure the minimum ISO threshold has been met for the Dynamic Range setting you are attempting to use.

4. How to set Highlight & Shadow with D-Range Priority

The Vibrant Arizona Recipe uses D-Range Priority

This one can be a little confusing. In my Recipes, D-Range Priority should always be set to Off unless otherwise stated. Most Recipes do not use D-Range Priority, but a few do. Sometimes D-Range Priority is confused with the Dynamic Range settings (DR100, DR200, DR400), but they are two separate things. When you enable D-Range Priority, it is in lieu of Dynamic Range, Highlight, and Shadow, so those three options will not be available to select. In other words, you can either use Dynamic Range (such as DR200) and the Tone Curve (Highlight and Shadow) or you can use D-Range Priority, but you can’t do both options simultaneously. Also, like Dynamic Range, D-Range Priority is ISO dependent.

5. How to set a White Balance Shift

The Cross Process Recipe uses a WB Shift of -3 Red & -8 Blue

This used to be the most asked question, but not so much lately. I wrote an article about it almost three years ago, so if you are stuck, be sure to check it out (click here). The simple answer: find the White Balance submenu in the IQ menu subset, highlight the desired White Balance option, then arrow-to-the-right to open the White Balance Shift menu for that particular WB type. Cameras older than the X-Pro3—X-Trans I, II, III, and the X-T3 & X-T30—cannot save a WB Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets, but the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, and X-Trans V can. If you have a model that cannot save a WB Shift within the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu, I did publish a solution that you might find helpful (click here). Models that can save the WB Shift offer a much improved experience.

6. How to get less yellow pictures

The Fujicolor Superia 100 Recipe is Daylight-balanced

Like film, many Film Simulation Recipes are intended for use in a particular light, mostly sunny daylight. When used in the “wrong” light, you might not get desirable results, and your pictures could come out yellow. My best advice is to use the right Recipe for the lighting situation that you find yourself in, or pick an Auto White Balance Recipe, which are usually more versatile.

7. How to shoot with a manual lens

I like manual lenses, whether it’s classic film gear or inexpensive third-party glass. They often have great character, which is missing in most precision-engineered modern lenses. Fujifilm has a weird quirk where you have to find Shoot Without Lens in the Menu (and it’s not always in an easy-to-spot location), or else the camera won’t let you capture a picture with one of these lenses attached. Once enabled, you can use manual lenses, but if disabled, your camera won’t capture a picture. If you cannot find it, look for Shoot Without Lens in your camera’s owner’s manual, and it will instruct you where to find it.

8. How to set Exposure Compensation

I’m surprised by how often this question comes up, and I think it’s because each Recipe lists a typical exposure compensation, usually with a range, such as +1/3 to +1. First, the suggested exposure compensation is simply meant as a starting point and is not a rule; each exposure should be judged individually, and you might need to use an exposure comp that’s outside of my recommendation. Second, if you are shooting full manual, think about how much you might need to increase or decrease the exposure over what the light meter is telling you in order to achieve the desired results—you aren’t using the exposure comp dial, so you’ll be manually doing it yourself with the aperture/shutter/ISO triangle. Third, you cannot set an exposure comp range or save exposure compensation to the C1-C7 Custom Presets. Fourth, Exposure Compensation, with rare exceptions, is found on a dial on top of the camera: +1 equals one f-stop, and the dots in-between equal 1/3 stops.

9. How to use older Recipes on newer models

The Kodak Vision3 250D Recipe is intended for the X-T3/X-T30, but used here on an X-E4

X-Trans III Film Simulation Recipes can indeed be used on X-Trans IV models. For the X-T3 and X-T30, simply set Color Chrome Effect to Off; for the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II, additionally set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choose a Grain size (either Small or Large)—do this also for adapting X-T3/X-T30 Recipes to the newer models. X-Trans IV Recipes can technically be used on X-Trans V, but, because blue renders more deeply on some film simulations, you should make an adjustment to Color Chrome FX Blue: if the X-Trans IV Recipe calls for CCEB set to Strong use Weak on X-Trans V, and if it calls for Weak use Off. This is for Recipes that use Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass; for the other films sims, no adjustment is needed.

10. How to resolve the Clarity pause

The Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe uses plus Clarity

Most of the Film Simulation Recipes made for the newer models use Clarity; however, if Clarity is set to anything other than 0 it will cause a storing pause. I use this pause, which is about the same amount of time as advancing to the next frame on a film camera, to slow myself down, which I think is beneficial. If you are in a hurry, this pause can be annoying, and you might want to avoid it. So what are your options? You could forget Clarity and just accept the results for what they are. Switching to a burst mode, such as Continuous Low (CL), will disable Clarity; if you shoot RAW+JPEG, you could reprocess in-camera (or X RAW Studio) and add Clarity after the fact (this is Fujifilm’s recommendation). If a Recipe calls for minus Clarity, you could use a diffusion filter, such as CineBloom or Black Pro Mist, to produce a similar effect (5% CineBloom and 1/8 BPM are roughly equivalent to -1 & -2 Clarity, 10% CineBloom and 1/4 BPM are roughly equivalent to -3 & -4 Clarity, and 20% CineBloom and 1/2 BPM are roughly equivalent to -5 Clarity); however, there is no substitution for plus Clarity.

Those are the 10 most common how-to type questions I get asked. Hopefully this article will be helpful to a few of you who are searching for answers. Don’t be afraid to ask if you are still stuck with whatever issue you’re facing with your Fujifilm cameras. I don’t work for Fujifilm so I can’t guarantee an answer, but I’ll try to help if I can. I just ask that you attempt to find the answer in your camera’s owner’s manual first, because you probably don’t actually need my help; however, if you do, I’m happy to try.

Fujicolor Superia 100 — Fujifilm X-T5 (X-Trans V) Film Simulation Recipe

Small Windmill – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Superia 100

Fujicolor Superia 100 was a daylight-balanced color negative film produced by Fujifilm between 1998 and 2009. It replaced Fujicolor Super G Plus 100, which, honestly, didn’t look all that much different. Superia 100 had improved grain, sharpness, and more accurate color under florescent light; under normal conditions, and without a very close inspection, the two films looked nearly identical. Superia 100 was a “consumer” film that was widely found in drug and convenient stores. It was regularly used for family snapshots, but was also popular among photojournalists, as well as portrait and wedding photographers. Superia 100 was marketed as a “general use” low-ISO color film. Like the film, this Fujicolor Superia 100 Film Simulation Recipe could serve as a general-use option.

This isn’t a new Recipe, but an adaption of the X-Trans IV version of Fujicolor Superia 100 for use on X-Trans V cameras. Because X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on Classic Negative (and some other film sims), a slight tweak is needed for my X-T5; specifically, Color Chrome FX Blue should be set to Off instead of Weak. That’s the only difference between the X-Trans IV and V versions of Fujicolor Superia 100.

Purple Patina – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Fujicolor Superia 100

This Film Simulation Recipe has fairly low contrast—but not too low—and produces very nice colors. It has a nostalgic quality to it, since the film that it’s based on was widely used for family snapshots in the 1990’s and 2000’s. You can use it for portraits or street photography or landscapes—really, it’s good for most situations. Like the film, in indoor artificial light it will render especially warm, which you might or might not appreciate. This Recipe is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, and X-S20. For newer GFX models, you can use either version, but I’m sure it will look slightly different than an the X series.

Film Simulation: Classic Negative
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Off
White Balance: Daylight, 0 Red & -1 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -2
Color: +1
Sharpness: -2

High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -2
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor Superia 100 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:

Red Bike – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Taillight – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Snooze – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Jon with a Camera – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Water & Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Spiderweb Leaves – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Greens of Summer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Birdcage Light – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Americana Girl – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Backlit Girl in the Garden – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Bougainvillea Blooms of Summer – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Blooms Above Blocks – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Tiny Purple Backyard Blossoms – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Flowerpot – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Love Lost – Buckeye, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Concentration – Avondale, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Hanging Lamps – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5
Yellow Coffee – Phoenix, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:  Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:  Amazon  B&H  Moment

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The Future of Photography is Unedited

Bench with a View – Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4Pacific Blues Recipeunedited

Photography is moving in a clear direction, and it is unedited. Let me explain.

There’s a new photography trend on the iPhone. Instead of using the front-facing camera to take selfies, people are taking screen shots of the preview from the selfie camera. Why? What’s the difference? The pipeline for the image preview and the actual photographs are different on the iPhone. Most notably, Apple applies an HDR processing to the exposure (but not the preview), which creates a less-contrasty picture. If you are going to apply a filter to the photo and edit it, having a flatter starting point makes sense; however, if you are not editing, one might prefer the more-contrasty image preview. Aside from that, it can be frustrating that the preview doesn’t match the photograph.

My RitchieCam iPhone camera app uses the same pipeline for both the image processing and the preview, so it doesn’t have this issue. The preview you see will be the picture you get. No need to screenshot, which produces a much-lower resolution image. Those using my camera app (instead of the native iPhone app) won’t need to go through the hassle of the screen shot (plus cropping out the non-image part); instead, they’ll have better quality pictures with an analog-inspired aesthetic to post to social media.

Photo by Amanda Roesch – iPhone 13 Pro – RitchieCam App – Standard Film filter – unedited

Of course, we’re not talking about photographers here, but snap-shooters, as I doubt that anyone who would self-identify as a photographer is taking screenshots instead of using the camera. It shouldn’t be surprising that they’re uninterested in picture manipulation, and just want good results without fuss. Maybe they don’t know how to edit pictures, and the idea of doing so is very intimidating, so they have no interest in learning. It could be that they don’t want to spend their time with picture editing, and just want to share (either through text or social media) their snaps quickly—the easier the better, but the pictures still need to look decent. Others don’t edit because doing so seems less authentic; Photoshop is a bad word, and picture-manipulation equals people-manipulation. Let’s not forget that the vast majority of photos captured across the world are by amateurs, so their opinions, preferences, and trends do matter.

For the advanced-hobbyist or professional, surely photo manipulation is a requirement, right? There’s a growing movement towards reduced (or even eliminated) photo editing. First, the less time spent sitting at a computer equals more production and/or more time with friends and family. For a lot of people, for every hour out with a camera photographing means two hours in Lightroom or Capture One fiddling with the RAW files; if those two hours can be reduced by 50% or more (especially more), that’s a huge win! Second, shooting camera-made JPEGs affords the advantage of knowing exactly what you’re going to get before even pressing the shutter. Don’t like what you see? Simply make a few quick adjustments until you do, then take the picture. Not having to pre-visualize in your mind the finished photo, but seeing it right there in the viewfinder in real time, is a game-changer for many. Third, getting great (often analog-like) results straight-out-of-camera can be a much more fun photographic process, especially if you don’t enjoy sitting for hours at a computer post-processing pictures.

I used to shoot RAW and edit, but thanks to Fujifilm cameras and Film Simulation Recipes, I now use unedited (or sometimes lightly-edited) camera-made JPEGs. I will crop or straighten when needed, which is the majority of my post-processing; occasionally I will adjust the brightness a notch, but very rarely do I manipulate any further than that. Most of my pictures are unedited, even to a strict definition. This has changed my life, no hyperbole! My post workflow takes minutes instead of hours, which has made me a much more productive photographer while simultaneously improving home-life, because I can now spend more time with my wife and kids. That’s amazing!

Pacific Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues – unedited

For example, on a recent trip to the California coast, during the downtimes—such as while at lunch, as a passenger in a car, or at night before bed—I transferred the JPEGs from my cameras to my phone, cropped if needed, and uploaded to cloud storage. A few minutes here and there meant that, by the time I got home, my workflow was essentially already complete. For most photographers, once back home the work would just be getting started, with many hours sitting at a computer.

But, but, but… surely the unedited camera-made JPEGs are not good enough for serious photography, right? You couldn’t do true professional work like this, could you? You can’t print very large and still look stunning, can you? Actually, yes—you can! I know because several successful professional photographers have told me that this is how they now do their paid work. You’d be surprised by just how many are doing some or even all of their pro photo work completely unedited or just lightly edited.

It’s not just photographers who benefit from a simplified workflow, but clients. Because of social media, people often desire to have a quick turnaround on their professional photographs. The newlywed couple doesn’t want to wait two weeks for the wedding pictures to be done, and in fact their parents wished for them that very day! If you can deliver the images quickly, you have a clear advantage over your competition.

Dave Wyman using RitchieCam – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100VSuperia Premium 400 Recipeunedited

In fact, Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry told me about two recent corporate events where the client wanted the photos as the event was happening! Periodically, every so many minutes throughout the day, she would download the straight-out-of-camera images from her camera to her phone, then upload them to a cloud location that the client had access to. As the event was happening, they were able to share the pictures to their social media accounts. Delivering real-time results to the client is going to be the future of event photography. Nathalie was able to do this thanks to the Film Simulation Recipes that she had programmed into her Fujifilm cameras.

Whether it is professional, hobby, or snap-shooting, photography is slowly and stubbornly moving towards less editing. It is easier and quicker and more fun, the disadvantages of it are disappearing, and the stigmatization is dissipating. More and more, people want great results without fuss. Editing is no longer a requirement, especially if you have gear that will deliver solid out-of-camera pictures, such as Fujifilm cameras or the RitchieCam app.

The next battle will be AI. Technology allows one to simulate a photograph with a string of words, or add to an image what wasn’t there—all with a similar ease to shooting camera-made JPEGs. It will come down to authenticity. I believe that as tech pushes us towards an augmented or even fully artificial reality, society will push back with an equal and opposite force towards the genuine. People will generally prefer authenticity over artificial, but it will be a divide. Camera makers should carefully consider how to move forward through all of this, and how they can improve their straight-out-of-camera experience. Fujifilm has a clear advantage, which materialized in the recent explosion in demand for the X100V. A simplified workflow with less editing or even no editing is the future of photography, and the future is now.

Travel: Central Coast of California “En Plein Air” — w/Ken Rockwell & Dave Wyman — Day 5, Part 2

Flowers on the Coastal Bluffs – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Pacific Blues


Day 1
 — Day 2
 — Day 3 — Day 4, Part 1 — Day 4, Part 2Day 5, Part 1

Day 5, Part 2 — June 9, 2023 — San Simeon & Morro Bay

There were twelve photographers on the Central Coast tour: Dave Wyman, Ken Rockwell, myself, and nine others. Seven of those nine had previously been on at least one other of these tours (some had been on several), which I think speaks strongly of the value the excursions. It was mostly an older crowd; there was a young college student, I was second youngest (at 43), and I’m pretty sure everyone else was in their 50’s, 60’s, and 70’s—most above the age of 60. One was shooting Canon. Three had Sony. I, of course, was using Fujifilm. The other seven had Nikon. Ken seems to especially like Nikon, so it shouldn’t be too surprising that so many on this tour had that brand. I believe there were more DSLRs than mirrorless. I saw a lot of long telephoto lenses.

For this part of Day 5, after the abandoned cars, we wound our way back to the Pacific Coast Highway, then up to Elephant Seal Vista Point north of San Simeon. I had already photographed this location on Day 2, so I used the opportunity to try some underutilized lenses in my bag, and take a more laid-back approach. Following that, we went to the San Simeon Pier below Hearst Castle. The last stop of the day was Morro Bay to photograph the famous monolith.

The group was going to assemble one more time the next morning, but I wasn’t going to join them, so this was the end of Ken and Dave’s tour for me. I captured a lot of images—more than I’ve shown in this article series—and it was a highly rewarding experience. I would definitely recommend it, for anyone considering joining one of these tours in the future. It was very insightful, and I had a good time. I said goodbye and called it a night.

Boats in the Bay – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Pacific Blues

The camera gear that I used on the second part of Day 5 (you can read the entirety of the gear that I brought with me in my Ultimate Travel Compact Camera Kit article) was a Fujifilm X100V with a 5% CineBloom filter, a Fujifilm X-E4 with a Fujinon 18mm f/2, Meike 35mm f/1.7, Pergear 10mm f/8, and Xuan 30mm f/10, a Ricoh GR III, and the RitchieCam App on my iPhone 11.

For this part of Day 5, the Film Simulation Recipes that I used on my Fujifilm cameras (which can be found in the Fuji X Weekly App) were Kodak Tri-X 400Kodachrome 64Superia Premium 400, The RockwellPacific BluesUrban Dreams, Vintage Color, and 1981 Kodak. On the GR III, I used the Monochrome Film Recipe (which can be found in the Ricoh Recipes App) for the entirety of the trip, treating the camera as a monochrome-only model. For the iPhone, I used my Standard Film filter on RitchieCam.

The photographs below are in order of when they were captured. The picture at the top of this article, Flowers on the Coastal Bluffs, was the first image captured during this part of the day. The second photo, Boats in the Bay, fits in-between Lifeguard Tower 1 and Cocktail Cruise. I hope that you enjoy the pictures!

Yellow Flowers, Grey Coast – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Pergear 10mm – Kodachrome 64
Green Bushes, Grey Coast – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Pergear 10mm – Kodachrome 64
Elephant Seal Beach – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Xuan 30mm – Vintage Color
Gloomy Coast 1 – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Vintage Color
Gloomy Coast 2 – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Vintage Color
Gloomy Coast 3 – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Vintage Color
It Was all Yellow – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Vintage Color
Lazy Seals – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – The Rockwell
Flowery Bluffs – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Kodachrome 64
Right – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Vintage Color
Gull – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – Vintage Color
Flight – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 18mm – The Rockwell
White & Yellow – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodachrome 64
They May Bite – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Urban Dreams
Hearst Ranch Schoolhouse – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Urban Dreams
Biting Horses – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – 1981 Kodak
School Horse – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Tractor on Display – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400
Green Chevy Wagon – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodachrome 64
Green Car – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodachrome 64
Driver – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodachrome 64
Pier Railing – San Simeon, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Kodachrome 64
Pier Corner – San Simeon, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
San Simeon Pier – San Simeon, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Morro Beach – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Morro Rock behind Ice Plant – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Rock & Ice – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Urban Dreams
Rock View – Morro Bay, CA – iPhone 11 – RitchieCam App – Standard Film
Morro Shores – Morro Bay, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Lifeguard Tower 1 – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400
Cocktail Cruise – Morro Bay, CA – Ricoh GR III – Monochrome Film
Rosana’s Ride – Morro Bay, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 & Meike 35mm – Pacific Blues

Day 6

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X100V — Amazon   B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-E4 — Amazon   B&H  Moment
Ricoh GR III — Amazon  B&H  Moment
Fujinon 18mm f/2 — Amazon   B&H   Moment
Meike 35mm f/1.7 — Amazon   B&H
Pergear 10mm f/8 Fisheye — Amazon
Xuan Focus Free 30mm F/10 — Amazon

Creative Collective 050: FXW Zine — Issue 20 — July 2023

The July issue of FXW Zine is out now! Creative Collective subscribers can download it today. Not a Creative Collective subscriber? Join to gain access to this issue plus all pervious issues of FXW Zine and the many bonus articles. 

In Issue 20 I describe how I used my Fujifilm X100V to replicate the aesthetic of small Kodak negatives. It includes 26 pictures (including the cover) spread across 20 pages.

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Let’s talk about the upcoming Fujifilm X100Z

The Fujifilm X100V was an overnight sensation two-and-a-half years after it was released. Yes, it sold well for Fujifilm during those 30 months prior to the explosion in demand, but, beginning last fall, the X100V was suddenly the one camera model that everyone wanted, yet few could get.

Fujifilm couldn’t make enough copies of the camera to keep up with the newfound demand. The X100V was out-of-stock everywhere. The backorder list quickly grew long. A large camera store told me months ago that if there were no new orders, and at the current rate that Fujifilm was manufacturing the X100V, it would take them six months just to fulfill all of those backorders; however, the backorder list was growing faster than Fujifilm was delivering new cameras.

Some of those who did have an X100V—even a used one—were selling them at significantly inflated prices. I saw one listed at $1,000 above MSRP in one instance. And people were actually buying them! The price for older versions, such as the X100F, but going back all the way to the 12-year-old original X100, also increased and became more difficult to find. Even other Fujifilm series, such as the X-E line (and even Ricoh GR), saw a bump in demand as people looked for alternatives to the X100V.

Yellow Kayaks, White Trucks – Pismo Beach, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Superia Premium 400

It’s been about nine months since the craze began and it hasn’t slowed. The X100V has been an in-demand model during that time, but Fujifilm just can’t keep up with it, due to things like parts shortages and balancing manufacturing demands with the also-hot-selling X-T5. Ideally Fujifilm would have been able to truly capitalize on their fortuitous situation, but they really haven’t. Perhaps the only thing that Fujifilm has been able to do is continue to limp the manufacturing of this model a little longer than they originally anticipated, delaying the discontinuation date by as much as a year.

When you look at the history of the X100-series, a release pattern emerges. The X100S came out about two years after the original X100, the X100T came out about two years after the X100S, and the X100F was released about two years after the X100T; however, the X100V was released three years after the X100F, and we’re already beyond the three-year-mark since the X100V came out. I believe that Fujifilm would have liked to have announced the next X100-series camera, which I’ll call the X100Z, back in February, but that obviously didn’t happen. I anticipate that it will be February 2024.

Why didn’t it happen in 2023? The X100V is selling faster than they can be made. What’s the hurry in releasing a successor? I do believe the issues that plagued not only Fujifilm but also most of the tech industry are still problematic to an extent, and this gives Fujifilm more time to get their parts supply and manufacturing operations back on track. I bet Fujifilm is hoping to make just enough copies of the X100V to give a glimmer of hope that one can be obtained with enough patience—and that the buzz continues for a bit longer—but not so many that the demand is deflated when the X100Z (or whatever Fujifilm will call it) is announced in eight months or so. Honestly, Fujifilm should release one or two limited-run special-edition X100V versions between now and then.

Flare over a Log– Prefumo Canyon, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor 100 Gold

The X100-series doesn’t change much with a new release. The improvements are just enough to make you desire the new model, but are never groundbreaking. There’s not going to be a redesign. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. What can we expect in an X100Z? What do I wish for?

I do believe the biggest “upgrade” will be the 40-megapixel X-Trans V sensor and processor. While I actually prefer the 26-megapixel sensor in general (as 40mp is overkill for most people), as I’ve thought about it, this sensor makes a lot of sense in an X100 because of the Digital Teleconverter, something I used far more frequently on my recent trip to California’s Central Coast than I had at any point in the two years prior. The X100V has 35mm full-frame-equivalent lens, and the Digital Teleconverter, which is a digital zoom with some smart upscaling, produces a 50mm-equivalent or 70mm-equivalent picture, adding versatility to the fixed-lens camera. There is a noticeable loss in quality when set to 70mm, but it’s still surprisingly good; however, the 40mp sensor would make this feature better and more practical for routine use. In fact, Fujifilm could even add 80mm if they wanted. The one thing I’d like Fujifilm to fix with regards to the Digital Teleconverter is scale the faux Grain, because Strong/Large Grain looks massive when using the 70mm option, but it should appear to be the same size as if the Digital Teleconverter wasn’t used.

The new sensor and processor will bring several improvements to the spec sheet for both stills and video. Autofocus will see a boost. In an age of diminishing returns, I don’t think any of that makes a big difference, but the marketing department will still use it to promote the camera and reviewers will still use it to get clicks and likes.

Playing with Waves – Cambria, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Kodak Tri-X 400

Will the X100Z have IBIS? Fujifilm has made some significant strides with their In-Body-Image-Stabilization, but I’d be mildly surprised if the new model has it. The argument is that the Ricoh GR III has IBIS, and it’s a much older and smaller camera, so why can’t the X100-series? First, IBIS isn’t really needed in the GR III and it’s pretty mediocre anyway, so it’s often overstated as a feature in that model. I do think it makes more sense in the X100-series than in the Ricoh, but if it makes the body larger or more expensive, Fujifilm will have to carefully consider the potential consequences of that. I think, with the higher-resolution sensor, a digital stabilizer for video would be sufficient.

What I would love to see in the Fujifilm X100Z are more film simulations and JPEG options. Of course that’s what I’d love to see, since I make Film Simulation Recipes. What I don’t think Fujifilm or the photography community in-general realizes is that the ability to get analog-like results straight-out-of-camera is what’s largely driving the interest in the X100V. While many long-time Fujifilm photographers purchased the X100V, for a lot of people the camera is (or would be if they could find one in stock) their first Fujifilm—whether they mainly shoot Canon, Sony, Nikon, etc., or it’s their first “real” camera—and it makes a lot of sense because it doesn’t require investing in a whole system. They can get their feet wet with something fun, and maybe later they’ll jump into the deep end. In the meantime, they’ve got a cool camera that doesn’t require sitting in front of a computer to get great results. Not only does this drive camera sales, but it is also a big reason why many end up sticking around and not moving onto something else.

Spooner Cove – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X100V – Fujicolor 100 Gold

So what would I like Fujifilm to add to the X100Z? Obviously Eterna Bleach Bypass and Nostalgic Neg. will be included, but I think Fujifilm should strongly consider introducing a new film sim with this camera. Some ideas are Fujicolor Pro 400H (that with overexposure behaves similarly to the film), Fujicolor Pro 800Z (would make a lot of sense if they name the camera X100Z), Fujichrome Sensia, Fujichrome Fortia, cross-process, infrared, Instax, Neopan 400CN, etc.—there are still a ton that Fujifilm could and should do. Some JPEG options that I’d like to see are mid-tone adjustments (additional to Highlight and Shadow), black-point (a.k.a. fade, to lift blacks), split-toning (for both B&W and color pictures), more Grain options (Weak, Medium, Strong; Small, Medium, Large, Extra-Large; plus maybe various patters?), and maybe even a tint slider for the major colors to tweak their rendering? I think Fujifilm has to be careful balancing new features with simplicity, so that the many options don’t become overwhelming—in other words, pick a couple of things to add and not everything, as much as I’d love to have everything.

The X100Z will be a very successful camera for Fujifilm, and for a lot of people standing in the long line for an X100V, this new model can’t get here fast enough. There won’t likely be a huge difference between the two versions—just the new sensor and some new features, but it will nonetheless be a nice refresh. While it might seem to be a long ways off, Fujifilm will announce this camera in the not-too-distant future, and it will be here before you know it. In the meantime, I’ve included below a video published today by Leigh & Raymond Photography that discusses this very topic.