Fujifilm X100V Film Simulation: Kodak Portra 400


Bridge Over Stream – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Portra 400”

This is a brand-new version of my X-T30 Kodak Portra 400 film simulation recipe, designed specifically for the Fujifilm X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4. My “old” recipe isn’t, in fact, old, as I published it only one month ago, but already I have improved on it, thanks to Fujifilm’s new tools, and also thanks to Fuji X Weekly reader Thomas Schwab, who helped tremendously refine the recipe to be more accurate to actual Portra 400 film. You see, he captured some pictures with Portra 400 film and made some identical pictures with his X-Pro3. After a few small changes, this new recipe emerged. It’s very similar to the X-T30 Portra 400 recipe, the differences aren’t huge, but it is subtly better in my opinion.

Portra 400 was introduced by Kodak in 1998, and was redesigned in 2006 and again in 2010. As the name implies, it’s intended for portrait photography, but can be used for many other types of photography. It’s similar to Portra 160, but with more contrast, saturation and grain. Believe it or not, ISO 400 was considered “high ISO” by many photographers back in the film days, and Portra 400 was one of the absolute best “high ISO” color films ever made. Like all films, results can vary greatly depending on how it’s shot, developed and printed or scanned, and even which version of the film you’re talking about.


Backlit Forest Leaves – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodak Portra 400”

This new Portra 400 film simulation recipe requires the use of Clarity, which slows down the camera considerably. Fujifilm suggests shooting RAW and adding Clarity later, but I just use the pause to slow myself down. The use of Clarity also means that this recipe can’t be used on “older” cameras, only the X100V, X-Pro3 and X-T4 (as of this writing), but feel free to apply the white balance shift of this recipe to the X-T30 version and see if you like it better.

Classic Chrome
Dynamic Range: DR-Auto
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -2
Color: +2
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpening: -2
Clarity: +2
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: Daylight, +3 Red & -5 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)

Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this new Kodak Portra 400 film simulation recipe on my Fujifilm X100V:


Light Green Leaves – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Sunlight In The Tree – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Forest – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Creek Through The Trees – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Light on the Water – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Creek – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Big Green Leaf – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Sunshine & Tree Leaves – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Sunlit – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Stone & Blooms – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Jo Swinging – Layton, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Brother & Sister Driving – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Protect & Serve – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Seagull on a Lamp – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V


Stormy Reeds – Farmington, UT – Fujifilm X100V

See also: Film Simulation Recipes

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  1. Khürt Williams · June 10, 2020

    This looks fantastic Ritchie. I had some issues with the older recipe which I think was due to user error.

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  3. shifteleven · June 11, 2020

    This should be fun to try out!

    I am curious though – how do you deal with the extra in-camera processing time that the “clarity” setting provides? Do you just re-run the RAWS through Fuji X Studio later? The delay and blackout keep me from using it.

    • Ritchie Roesch · June 12, 2020

      I just use the delay to slow myself down. Back in the film days, unless you had an electronic advance (which I didn’t), you had to wind the film between exposures. I kind of think of it as that. If I needed to be quick, I would set Clarity to 0 and adjust it later by reprocessing in-camera, but I haven’t had to that yet.

      • shifteleven · June 12, 2020

        Yeah, but I guess with film I was the factor in whether or not I could take the next shot. Plus, I could keep my eye in the viewfinder while advancing the film. Perhaps that’s when I should use the OVF on my X-Pro3 as to avoid the blackout 😀


      • Ritchie Roesch · June 13, 2020

        The OVF can indeed be a wonderful tool.

      • Jeffrey Tjahaja · November 7, 2020

        Hi Ritchie, absolutely love your presets. I read it somewhere that we can use CL low or Ch High drive mode to skip the extra in-camera processing time

      • Ritchie Roesch · November 8, 2020

        Yes, but it doesn’t apply Clarity, so if you want the Clarity setting you’ll have to adjust it by reprocessing the RAW file, either in-camera or with X RAW Studio.

  4. Marlon DeNon · July 29, 2020

    Great simulation! Have you by chance created a Kodak Porta 160 Simulation for the XT4/X100V?
    I’ve tried finding it here on the blog, but was unable to locate it.

    Thanks for all you do Ritchie!

  5. Romain Capturs · July 30, 2020

    You made my day with all those recipes !
    Do you think we’ll get that clarity and chrome blue settings in the xt-3 ?
    Thank you again for the hardwork !

    • Ritchie Roesch · July 31, 2020

      Thank you! I’m glad that you like them. I truly hope that the X-T3 will get those features.

  6. Manwhale Joe (Manuel) · August 1, 2020

    I’m ashamed to admit I have been reading your recipes for years and years now but never left a comment. I’ve probably tried at least 20 of your recipes but none really stuck with me. I shoot film and really lean towards Kodak Portra and Ultramax, so I had to try this recipe on my XT2 and X100F. This is THE BEST RECIPE I HAVE EVER USED. I just tried it on some wedding photos I took recently (I processed photos using the in-camera Raw to jpeg function) and it looks just beautiful (sometimes I set the WB to auto instead of daylight). I am trying this recipe on my GFX 50R now! Thank you very much!!

    • Ritchie Roesch · August 1, 2020

      Thanks so much for your kind words and feedback! I’m so glad that you like this recipe and found it useful to your photography.

    • Adam · August 29, 2020

      How did you get on with the GFX?

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  13. alexcrter · September 14, 2020

    This is great. Would love To see a Portra 800 recipe.

    • Ritchie Roesch · September 14, 2020

      Thanks! Portra 800 is on my to-do list. I hope to tackle that at some point soon.

  14. alexcrter · September 14, 2020

    This is great. Would love to see a Recipe for Portra 800.

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  16. Dora · October 1, 2020

    Hi Ritchie! Thank you so much for this Recipe! I use Portra 400 a lot but recently the price went way higher 🙁 so this simulation would really help so I could shoot both film and digital! I have a question. Does this setting only work for JPEG? How can I keep this setting when I shoot in RAW (RAF)? Thank you!!

    • Ritchie Roesch · October 2, 2020

      If you shoot RAW+JPEG, your RAWs will have the settings “built in” but it will be up to your software to interpret those settings.

      • Dora · October 2, 2020

        Thanks for getting back to me. Which software is good to use to keep the setting? Sorry I am still learning how to use this camera. Thanks!!

      • Ritchie Roesch · October 5, 2020

        Maybe Capture 1? I don’t currently have any RAW editing software, so I’m not much of a help. Sorry.

      • Dora · October 6, 2020

        I’ve tried with the newest Photoshop (Camera Raw), Lightroom, FUJIFILM X RAW studio etc but nothing worked 🙁 Camera Raw and Lightroom, I can change to ‘Fuji: Classic Chrome’ (the original color setting) but then they don’t have the advanced settings. FUJIFILM X RAW studio software reads the setting but only converts from RAW to JPG, not TIFF 🙁 Capture One doesn’t read RAF file… I will keep researching…

      • Ritchie Roesch · October 6, 2020

        Capture One does in fact read Fujifilm’s RAW files. It’s the preferred software for editing Fujifilm RAW files by many, many, many people. I would keep working with it, and find some articles or videos or classes that explain how to use it. My recommendation is to keep at it, I’m sure the learning curve is steep, but you’ll soon enough be able to do with it what you want.

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  18. Tim · October 23, 2020

    Have you tried this using Classic Neg?

    As I understand it that film sim reacts differently to exposure changes and gives a more film like response. Haven’t figured out how to get Portra from that base sim.

    • Ritchie Roesch · October 25, 2020

      Actually, I did about a week ago. It looks interesting, but nothing like Portra. Classic Negative is definitely a Fujicolor palette.

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  20. Aldo Costagliola · November 18, 2020

    hi guys I am loving these recipes sooooo much on my x100v! I would like to contribute financially if needed to the creation of the recipes for the Fuji Superia Premium 400, probably my favourite film. Shall we discuss this? Thanks 🙂

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  23. Jun · December 17, 2020

    Hi! Thanks for sharing amazing recipe..
    For some reason, when I put all that numbers and setting in my x100v, all the photos I take look very orangy..
    I don’t know what I’m touching wrongly but do you have any solution to this? Really really wanna try this recipe properly and just shoot JPEG without worrying about retouching later on… thanks in advance!

    • Ritchie Roesch · December 17, 2020

      It’s hard to know, I would double check the White Balance. I will say that best results are in daytime sunlight. It can produce a strong cast under artificial light.

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  26. Tama · December 31, 2020

    Hi!,Do you think it would work on bayer sensor anyhow?considering most of them don’t have advanced settings such as color chrome effect,etc?and how bout the white balancing? 😊

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  29. Justin Kang Bae · April 8, 2021

    Hi, I just discovered these Fuji recipes and was curious why sometimes you have the white balance on other settings besides auto? Here we’re using daylight, so would that mean this recipe is more geared towards shooting outside as I assume using this in different lighting conditions would cause colors to be quite off? Was genuinely curious!

    • Ritchie Roesch · April 12, 2021

      That’s a great question!
      Back when I shot film, there were two “white balance” (I don’t recall hearing the term “white balance” used back then) options: Daylight and Tungsten. I had warming and cooling filters that I would haul around for when the lighting was different. So in the digital age, Auto White Balance makes the use of warming and cooling filters obsolete. Many of my earlier recipes use AWB. But, I got feedback that the recipes don’t behave like the film they were intended to mimic because of AWB. So I began to avoid using AWB for this reason, which had several benefits. But, I got more feedback that some recipes look pretty awful under (for example) artificial light because they don’t use AWB (which is often how film behaves). Some recipes use AWB and some don’t for this reason.
      That’s the long answer.
      The short answer is if the WB of a recipe isn’t working for you in the light conditions you are in, feel free to “season to taste” and change the WB to something that does, which might be as simple as using AWB instead. This particular recipe (in my opinion) looks best in daylight conditions.
      I hope this helps!

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  31. Instax Magician · April 28, 2021

    This is phenomenal! I used a dozen of recipe here and this is the one I use most often! Great work.

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  35. Shreedhar · July 16, 2021

    By far this is the best recipe I found for x100v. I tend to use this setting for harsh sunlight situations and this has been one recipe fits all for me. Whether it’s portrait or landscape or street photography it never fails. Mild warm colors fill the overexposed area and makes everything look beautiful. Also looking back at photos with this recipe brings back the true memories of hike or beach day. I sometimes change the film simulation to velvia with same recipe and get exceptional photos of the nature.

    • Ritchie Roesch · July 17, 2021

      That’s great! I’m so happy that it’s helpful to you. I’ll have to try it with Velvia! Thank you for the comment!

  36. PS · July 18, 2021

    Hi! Do you have a portra 400/800 recipe for the x-trans 1 sensor by any chance? I love the look of these kodak film simulations and would really like to use it on my x-pro 1. Thank you so much for your hard work!

    • Ritchie Roesch · July 18, 2021

      I don’t. It’s something that I want to work on. The difficulty is that X-Trans I doesn’t have Classic Chrome.

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  42. Mark Freeman · January 14, 2022

    Question: My camera custom presets are full, now I add film simulations into Fuji X raw studio as a new preset. The only problem is adding a preset the only selection for dynamic range is DR100, 200 and 400? This Portra 400 calls for a DR-Auto setting? How do I set a DR- Auto in X Raw studio when it only lets me choose 100, 200 or 400?

    Not sure what to set it at? .. any help Appreciated. thanks

    • Ritchie Roesch · January 14, 2022

      That’s a great question! The camera, in DR-Auto, will usually pick DR100 unless there’s a bright light in or near the frame, then it will select DR200 (never DR400, though). So if the picture has bright highlights, use DR200, and if not, use DR100. Hope this helps!

  43. Michael Remy · February 16, 2022

    Hi Ritchie !
    First of all thanks for the tremendous work you’ve done that’s a gold mine !

    I was reading your articles on D-Range Priority and I immediatly think about this portra 400 recipe. What would you think about tweaking this reciper to use D-Range set to weak ? Since you are already at S:-2 and H:-1. The mid-contrast boost provided by the D-Range settings could be usefull to Portra 400 right ?


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  50. Mark · June 19

    Hi… I like this better then the V2 for Australian conditions Now I have a XT-5 does this Portra 400 need any tweaking for the new sensor? Thanks.

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