This “Aerochrome v1” Film Simulation Recipe is for full spectrum infrared cameras, and not “normal” cameras, which have an infrared filter over the sensor. Fujifilm briefly sold a limited number of Fujifilm X-T4 ES (“Extended Spectrum”) cameras, which are full spectrum infrared (no IR filter). I don’t know how many of these cameras were made, but I think it’s a very small number. I was quite lucky to get one.
While the X-T4 ES is the only infrared camera that Fujifilm has ever made available to the general public (typically, they reserve them for “forensic, scientific, and cultural preservation applications”), there are companies that will convert a normal camera into a full spectrum model by removing the IR filter over the sensor. It’s an invasive and expensive procedure, but one of the few options available. What I cannot confirm is whether or not the straight-out-of-camera results from a third-party full spectrum converted camera are identical to the Fujifilm X-T4 ES. I believe that they are likely to be identical, but there is a chance that they’re not. I hope that Fujifilm will make more native full spectrum cameras in the future, and sell them to the general public. I’m certain that there is enough demand to justify it.
Aerochrome was an infrared film produced by Kodak between 1942 and 2009. It’s definitely not the only infrared color film ever made, but it’s the most popular and recognizable. You could achieve various aesthetics from Aerochrome by using different filters, with red, pink, purple, or orange vegetation as the hallmarks of the emulsion (especially red and pink). As far as I’m aware, there are not currently any color infrared films in production, and the few rolls of Aerochrome that remain are extraordinarily expensive. This “Aerochrome v1” Recipe mimics Aerochrome film, but it’s definitely not perfect. I’m currently working on two other Aerochrome Recipes, but the exact aesthetic I’m after has been a bit elusive so far (I’m close, though), so expect several versions to be published.
Aside from a full spectrum infrared camera, you also need specific filters. Since you are seeing light beyond the visible spectrum, filters are used to control exactly how the light enters the camera, which greatly affects the results. For this particular Recipe, a Kolari Vision IR Chrome filter and Hoya G(XO) Yellow-Green filter are required (I don’t think it matters, but I have the G(XO) filter in front of the IR Chrome). In my opinion, the Kolari Vision IR Chrome filter doesn’t produces acceptable Aerochrome results straight-out-of-camera by itself (at least not on Fujifilm); however, when used in conjunction with other filters it can be quite good.
This “Aerochrome v1” Film Simulation Recipe is intended specifically for the Fujifilm X-T4 ES camera; however, I’m sure it can be used on any full spectrum converted X-Trans IV or X-Trans V camera. For the X-Pro3 and X100V, you should use Highlight +1 and Shadow 0 (since those cameras don’t have 0.5 adjustments); additionally, for the X-T3 or X-T30, ignore Color Chrome FX Blue and Grain size. You might be able to use it on older cameras, adjusting for the settings that aren’t available on your specific model, but it will definitely render differently. It likely will work on newer GFX models, but with a slightly divergent result. If you have a regular Fujifilm camera, this Recipe will not work, as it requires a full spectrum camera like the X-T4 ES (and not the X-T4). Also, I’m not including this in the Fuji X Weekly App because it requires special gear.
Filters: Kolari Vision IR Chrome & Hoya G(XO) Yellow-Green
Film Simulation: Velvia
Dynamic Range: DR400
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: Daylight, +8 Red & +7 Blue
Highlight: +1.5
Shadow: +0.5
Color: +4
Sharpness: 0
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: 0
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Aerochrome v1 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T4 ES:
Nice results Ritchie. Quite cloe for the end result AeroChrome film esthetic. Keep tuning !
I would say, definitely I have not the same result with the Kolari Vision IR Chrome I have bought for my X-A3 FS.
All depends on the sensor tech and the FS filter put in replacement in front of the sensor. On my part a quartz 280nm. Hence with IR Chrome and a proper customed WB on a special IR WB card, so far I’m achieving an beautiful orange but not red AeroChrome look.
Like you I working heavily on the parameters to fine tune it.
But It’s a great idea the addition of another filter(s) like Yellow Green 👌
I will definitely test your recipe to see you it behaves on X-A3 FS. Thanks for sharing it 👍
I get an orange look with the IR Chrome by itself. Definitely try it with a additional filter. Look forward to hearing about your tests!
I see! Very interesting to know that! Might be consistent then with the filter itself. I was realy wondering from my initial trials, when compared to the InfraBlue I have too (from IRRECams.de which is manufactured differently from the Kolari Vision ones).
I will definitely then try it out your recipe , having Cokin filters (System P) and see what I can acchive though being more limited on settings with my X-A3.
I’ll give a feedback when done and that it stop raining here ! I need a bit of sunshine to get better results.
Looking forward to seeing what you discover!
Hi back Ritchie.
Today was at last a bright sunny day where I’m leaving.
So I was able to test with my X-A3 FS, your recipe which of course I had to adapt since not having all the goodies that the X-T4 offers over the much older X-A3.
I’m using Cokin System P with
Yellow P001 and Green P004 filters in front of the Kolari Vision IR Chrome.
Well first to say : your idea of completing the Kolari Vision IR Chrome with Yellow + Green from film B&W era is more than an excellent idea! It is a brilliant one my friend 👍👏💪
This combination just work with great results👌
While I like the orange look straight of the IR Chrome filter (which some of my family members prefer), the addition of the Yellow+Green filters do deliver the expected the Kodak AeroChrome original film effect / aesthetic with SOOC philosophy!
I’m extra very pleased of the SOOC results. Very pleasant surprise.
Before your recipe, I tried A LOT of WB tweaking and shifting to try to get the wanted results but never with perfect results. Too artificial and the X-A3 had it’s limitation (I knew from the start, but that the last camera in stock I could spare for a conversion).
The addition of the Yellow+Green was in the fact the missing part.
Congratulations!
One remark thought (matter of tastes) but I prefer to put all the 3 filters I’m using then do a custom WB on my dedicated IR White Card.
The resulting WB leaves the gray more gray than reddish. To the expend though that depending on light conditions and green foliage involved in the image you get a more red/pink result than pure red.
Then applying a lighter WB shift out of the Custom gives me the final desired reds / effect.
From today trials and light conditions I would say +3 / +4 only on Red and Blue.
Of course and as always, all depends on the sensor tech, it’s limitation if older and the lens used + your taste.
Here on my X-A3, I could not benefit from the extra range having only -2/+2 and the great advantages of the 2 Chrome effects that grants the X-T4 which would be a great benefit for the sky.
But I’m already very pleased of the results nevertheless. I’ll continue to tweak/tune your recipe for my X-A3!
All in all you’ve made my day 😁
I will definitely play with my old film B&W and colour conversion Cokin filters (System P), I used a lot back in film days.
Funny, since being in Digital only, they were picking the dust.
Like my old X-A3, they are getting a second birth thanks to Full Spectrum photography 😉
King regards,
David
Thanks so much for this report! Much appreciated!
Very welcome Ritchie and as promised 😉
They are lovely, though I think I would tire of the effect. Illusive or elusive or both?
Cheers, Nick
Darn homophones always get me! 🤣
I have created a close enough combo with 3 filters no expensive kolari filter
Awesome! I’d love to know which filters.
Bonjour,
Auriez-vous réussi à créer une recette aerochrome de ce type avec le fujifilm X-T50 ? Merci 🙏🏻
Il s’agit d’un appareil photo à spectre complet et non d’un appareil photo ordinaire. Si votre X-T50 est converti en infrarouge à spectre complet, vous pouvez l’utiliser pour cette caméra. Si vous ne savez pas si votre caméra est convertie ou non, alors elle n’est pas convertie, car vous le savez. Il n’est malheureusement pas possible d’obtenir ce look sur un appareil photo ordinaire non converti. J’espère que tout cela a du sens.
Bonjour Sabrina. Bien content d’avoir un commentaire en français ici 😉
Comme l’écrit Ritchie, par défaut les appareils photos et caméras digitaux sont fait pour ne capter que le spectre visible (aka ce que peut voir l’oeil humain).
Pour cela un filtre de couleur +- turquoise est apposé au devant du capteur qui lui voit (*) tout le spectre lumineux possible suivant ces capacités techniques et physique, donc du proche UV (+-230nm), au proche infrarouge (+-12000nm).
(*) Je ne rentrerai pas dans les détails ici de comment voir un capteur la couleur car en fait il a befoin d’une matrice RVB (Rouge – Vert – Bleu) car il voit nativement en en Noir et Blanc qui sont 0 et des 1 informatique…
Pour revenir, ce filtre élimine donc ces UV (Ultra-violet) et IR (Infrarouge), rendant impossible l’usage de cette recette.
Pour l’utiliser, il faut soit un appareil specifique comme ici le X-T4 ES (Spectre Étendu) ou converti. Tous 2 ne sont pas pourvu de filtre.
Le retrait de celui-ci est une opération assez délicate et très invasive qui doit être bien faite.
D’où le fait qu’en cas de conversion je ne recommande jamais de le faire sur un appareil neuf et sous garantie. Car l’opération non faite par le fabricant (ici Fujifilm) annule automatique la garantie contractuelle (comme lorsque l’on root un smartphone).
Mais cette opération redonne une belle seconde vie à un boîtier d’occasion ou vieux.
Enfin cette recette en particulier outre ayant besoin d’un boiter (converti) Spectre Complet (Full Spectrum) à absolument besoin pour rendre l’effet escompté du film infrarouge Kodak AeroChrome (très populaire lors des années psychédéliques) de :
* 1 Filtre IR Chrome (qui permet l’effet) fabriqué par Kolari Vision
* 1 filtre jaune ET vert, que l’on utilise traditionnellement pour la photo noir et blanc argentique.
Donc même un appareil spectre complet seul ne permet pas directement de produire ce type d’image.
D’habitude il faut toujours un travail en post-traitement (qui implique généralement une ou des inversions des canaux de couleur RVB).
Ce qui fait que l’usage de ce filtre IR Chrome, l’idée de Ritchie de l’ajout de filtre jaune et vert avec sa recette est plus que fortement intéressante pour ceux qui comme moi qui ne veulent pas faire de post-traitement.
Bien cordialement.
So, does the film simulation manage to perform an R/B channel swap in camera? Or is the specific filter you’re using passing blue light as well and not just infrared?
No channel swap. The IR Chrome filter passes blue light (is a blue filter).
I’m wondering if a channel swap is possible with film simulation recipes. I’m looking for my next IR camera conversion and if I could get the camera to perform channel swaps in-camera, that would definitely convince me to go with Fuji.
You cannot do a channel swap in-camera, and I won’t be doing any channel swaps, personally. I think it’s unnecessary if you have the right filters and camera settings. In my opinion, the whole channel swap thing is outdated… yes, definitely a technique that a lot of people use, but I think it’s because they don’t realize that it’s possible to achieve something quite similar or even identical without it. Kind of old info that’s still being touted as a requirement. Hopefully I can change that misconception in the coming months and years.
Hello Ritchie. Love your work.
As a public info announcement. Recipe doesn’t work as stated for my X100F full spectrum (using settings where I have them). Actually a bit closer without the yellow/green – I may need to fiddle with white balance. I’ve always got lovely orangey results with the Kolari on its own. Will report back if I get anywhere…..
Cheers
Ben
Hmmm, interesting. Thanks for letting me know. I, too, get orange-like results with just the IR Chrome filter, but never red… takes two (or more) filters to get the red.