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I recently came across on article on PetaPixel by Chris Kuhn entitled Shooting Color and Black and White Film …At the Same Time. It was an interesting read and experiment, but I thought that it would be much easier to do something similar on a Fujifilm camera. And so I did. You can, too! Read on to find out how….
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I’m always fascinated by which Film Simulation Recipes you are using. I get a glimpse on social media, but my best gauge is the website statistics; specifically, which Recipe articles are viewed the most. Two months ago I shared with you the Top 10 most viewed Recipe articles of 2022 plus the most viewed through the first two months of 2023, and I was surprised by a couple of the rankings. Looking at this two months later, I’m once again surprised by a few things, and not so much by most of it.
So far in 2023, seven of the ten—including the Top 3—Film Simulation Recipes are for X-Trans IV camera. From the data I have, the majority of people who shoot with Recipes are doing so on X-Trans IV models. Kodachrome 64 remains king of Recipes, Kodak Portra 400 v2 is a close second, and Kodak Portra 400 is solidly third. Vintage Kodak and Classic Chrome (the original Fuji X Weekly Recipe), which are both for X-Trans III cameras (plus the X-T3 and X-T30), hold the fourth and fifth spots. Kodak Tri-X 400, the only B&W Recipe on this list, is sixth. Those first half-dozen are all identical rankings to 2022.
Kodak Ultramax 400 didn’t make last year’s Top 10 list, but it did rank number seven through the first two months of this year, and it continues to hold that through April. The X-Trans III version of Kodachrome II dropped one spot, while the X-Trans IV version moved out of the Top 10 completely. Pacific Blues didn’t make the Top 10 last year, but is number nine so far in 2023, up one spot from two months ago. Reggie’s Portra also didn’t make the Top 10 last year, but now holds the last spot, down one from two months ago, switching places with Pacific Blues. Kodak Ektar 100 and Nostalgic Negative both fell out of the Top 10.
10 Most Viewed Film Simulation Recipes of 2023 (…so far)
#1:
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Now let’s look at April-only. How did the Film Simulation Recipes rank during those 30 days?
The big surprise is that Vibrant Arizona is number two. It’s a little complicated, because that article actually includes four Recipes—two for X-Trans IV and two for X-Trans V. Even though I published it only nine days ago, the Vibrant Arizona Recipe, which is intended to produce a Wes Anderson aesthetic, is being used a heck-of-a-lot right now! The only other surprises are that Pacific Blues moved up to number eight, while Kodak Tri-X 400 fell two spots to number nine and Kodachrome II fell two spots all the way to the bottom. The first seven Recipes, plus the last one, all use the Classic Chrome film sim, which is Fujifilm’s most popular.
10 Most Viewed Film Simulation Recipes of April
#1:
#2:
#3:
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#5:
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Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
I asked OpenAI’s ChatGPT to make a Film Simulation Recipe to mimic the look of Kodachrome X slide film. This wasn’t the first time that I attempted to use ChatGPT to make a Recipe for Fujifilm cameras… you might recall that the Urban Dreams Film Simulation Recipe was made by ChatGPT, and by chance it has some resemblance to Kodachrome 200. I learned a lot about the AI’s ability (or is it inability?) to make Recipes, so I decided to try again just for the fun of it.
Kodak introduced Kodachrome—a color transparency film, and the world’s first commercially successful color film—in 1935. Kodachrome X was in the second era of the emulsion, sold between 1962 and 1973. It was replaced by Kodachrome 64, which was discontinued in 2009. Today you cannot buy Kodachrome, and even if you found some old rolls of the film, you cannot even get it developed. Shooting with a facsimile Film Simulation Recipe on Fujifilm cameras is a great way to experience some of these old emulsions that no longer exist, such as Kodachrome X.
Here’s a YouTube video I made documenting the experience!
I have Film Simulation Recipes already that mimic Kodachrome X slide film. These Recipes are called Kodachrome II, and there’s one for X-Trans I, one for X-Trans II, one for X-Trans III, and two for X-Trans IV cameras. In the video above, I compare ChatGPT’s Kodachrome X Recipe to my Kodachrome II v2 Recipe for X-Trans IV, which I shot on my X-T5; in order to make the Recipe compatible, I set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off since X-Trans V cameras render blue more deeply with some film sims.
My opinion is that ChatGPT’s Recipe is much too vibrant to mimic Kodachrome X. While the film was richly vibrant for its time, no emulsion in the 1960’s was that colorful. Today it would be described more as true-to-life. There are also other issues I take with the settings that the AI chose, so I don’t think it did well at mimicking Kodachrome; however, that doesn’t mean the settings (by chance) don’t look nice.
After examining the ChatGPT Recipe, I decided that it reminds me a lot of Kodak Ektachrome E100VS. There have been over 40 different emulsions that carried the Ektachrome name over the years—each with their own unique look—and E100VS was just one. Kodak introduced this film in 1999 and discontinued it in 2012. Ektachrome E100VS was Kodak’s best attempt at Velvia, and was their most vibrant emulsion. The “VS” in the name meant Vividly Saturated. While it was similar to Velvia, it wasn’t identical—the warmth of the film was the most obvious difference—and many photographers preferred Fujifilm’s Velvia over Kodak’s Ektachrome E100VS. Still, at the pinnacle of the film era, it was a popular choice for landscape photographers wanting a boost in vibrancy.
I noticed with AI generated Film Simulation Recipes that most of the time it chooses Auto White Balance, Grain Strong, and stays within -2 to +2 on all of the settings; my experience is that it only occasionally strays from that. It also seems to always leave some necessary settings out, and you have to ask it to add those. Of course, no film has Auto White Balance—most are Daylight (around 5500K), and some are Tungsten (around 3200K). While it is amazing that ChatGPT can produce a Recipe for Fujifilm cameras, if it looks good or not—and if it truly produces the aesthetic that you asked for—is more by chance than skill. Also, it doesn’t like to cite its sources, which is just wrong in my opinion.
While it tried and failed to resemble 1960’s era Kodachrome, I still liked the look produced by ChatGPT’s Kodachrome X Film Simulation Recipe. Since it has some similarities to Kodak Ektachrome E100VS color transparency film, I renamed it after that emulsion. I also refined the settings to more closely resemble the film, and am including that as a second Recipe, which I call Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2. So v1 is ChatGPT’s Recipe, and v2 is my modified alternative.
I shot a number of rolls of Ektachrome E100VS back in my film days. Most of these pictures are stored away in little yellow boxes, but a few images have been scanned. Obviously, the scanner—and especially the quality of the scan—has an impact on the photo rendering. The four images below are some real Kodak Ektachrome E100VS frames that I shot many years ago. None of these are high-quality scans, and for that I apologize, and I hope you can overlook that aspect of the pictures. Also, it’s important to state that they all look significantly more impressive when viewed on a light table or especially from a slide projector.
How the film was shot had a significant impact on the look. For deeper blues and reds, one should underexpose the film slightly. For cyan sky and brighter (and warmer) colors, one should overexpose slightly. Of course, you had to be careful, because the film—like most slide films—had a narrow dynamic range, and there wasn’t much room for error either direction. These two Film Simulation Recipes behave similarly, although I believe v2 a little more so than v1.
Without further ado, here are the two Kodak Ektachrome E100VS Film Simulation Recipes!
Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1
ChatGPT Recipe for Kodachrome X
This is the Recipe that ChatGPT created to mimic Kodachrome X, but it looks more like Kodak Ektachrome E100VS. It produces vivid colors similar to—but more warm and slightly less vibrant than—Velvia film. For darker blues and deeper reds, use a lower exposure compensation, and for lighter blues and brighter/warmer colors, use a higher exposure compensation. Because it uses Auto White Balance and DR400, you’ll find it to be quite versatile; however, the rendering is clearly “wrong” in some situations.
The Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1 Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2s, as well as “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, which include the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. You can use this Recipe on newer GFX cameras; however, it will render slightly differently (but try it anyway!). For the X-T3 and X-T30 (plus older GFX), you’ll have to ignore Color Chrome FX Blue, Grain size, and Clarity (since your camera doesn’t have those options), so it will definitely look a little different, but you might like it nonetheless; for X-Trans III, you’ll have to additionally ignore Color Chrome Effect.
Film Simulation: Velvia
Grain Effect: Strong, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: Auto, +2 Red & -2 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: +1
Shadow: +1
Color: +2
Sharpness: +1
High ISO NR: -2
Clarity: +1
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2
Fuji X Weekly Recipe
This version of Kodak Ektachrome E100VS is my modification to better mimic the film. It’s not too divergent—only slightly dissimilar—since it’s simply a modification of the AI Recipe, and not made from scratch. Because it uses more of a daylight-balanced Kelvin White Balance and DR200, it’s not quite as versatile as v1, and you have to be a little more careful of the light situation you are shooting in and pay closer attention to the highlights to avoid clipping. Sometimes it’s not completely correct, but I think in the “right” conditions it can be quite convincing—nearly identical to some slides I have.
The Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2 Film Simulation Recipe is fully compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2s, as well as “newer” X-Trans IV cameras, which include the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the X-T3, X-T30, X-Pro3, or X100V. You can use this Recipe on newer GFX cameras; however, it will render slightly differently (but try it anyway!).
Film Simulation: Velvia
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: 5150K, +3 Red & -3 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: +1.5
Shadow: +0.5
Color: +1
Sharpness: -1
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: +3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5 and X-E4:
Comparison
In the three examples above, Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v1 is on the left (revealed by moving the slider right), and Kodak Ektachrome E100VS v2 is on the right (revealed by moving the slider left).
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Fujifilm X-T5 in black: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver: Amazon B&H Moment
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
As a bonus, I asked OpenAI’s DALL-E 2 AI image creator to show me what ChatGPT creating Film Simulation Recipes looks like. The results? Awful, but also kind of funny! I tried rewording the request several different ways in hopes of getting a better image, but it never really got any better.
Here are a few:
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Everyone is after a Wes Anderson look right now!
When I first watched the trailer for the upcoming Wes Anderson movie Asteroid City, I thought perhaps it might be possible to mimic the aesthetic on my Fujifilm X-T5; however, I quickly realized that it’s not possible straight-out-of-camera. The movie has an orange and teal look, and I’ve tried unsuccessfully for years to achieve that on Fujifilm. In order to get orange and teal, the White Balance Shift requires plus red for orange and minus red for teal; it’s not possible to do both, so you must decide which one you want: orange or teal? After a few hours of unsuccessfully trying to get the settings right, I gave up.
Then I saw your pictures on Instagram. Specifically, there were photos captured using the Bright Summer, Bright Kodak, Kodak Portra 400 Warm, and Pacific Blues Film Simulation Recipes that had some Wes Anderson vibes to them, which convinced me to try again. I directly compared those four Recipes to Asteroid City screenshots, and decided that Bright Summer and Bright Kodak were the closest; however, none of them were quite right. So I set out to get a little closer—as close as I could—knowing that I wouldn’t be able to achieve a perfect match, but I hoped it would be similar enough that at a cursory glance it would pass for Asteroid City.
Knowing that most of you don’t have an X-Trans V camera, I made a version for X-Trans IV models, too, since the majority of those who shoot with Recipes do so on X-Trans IV cameras. Also, I figured that some of you won’t be satisfied with the results, and are after an even closer facsimile of Asteroid City, so I have some advice for that, too, a little further down, but it does require a small amount of post-editing with Capture One.
While attempting to mimic Asteroid City, I was inspired by another Wes Anderson film: The French Dispatch, specifically, the indoor scenes of the newspaper office, so I made Film Simulation Recipes for that, too—one for X-Trans V and another for X-Trans IV. I don’t know what the light situation was exactly in those scenes, so I don’t know if it would render similarly under identical light, but it does produce convincing results in certain artificial and mixed light scenarios.
If you are after a Wes Anderson look, check out the four Film Simulation Recipes below!
Vibrant Arizona (X-Trans V)
The Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe can be characterized as bright, colorful, and warm, yet still classic-analog-like, with some similarities to overexposed Kodak negative film. While not an exact match, I’m confident that it is as close as you’re going to get to an Asteroid City aesthetic straight-out-of-camera. The movie takes place in a fictional northern-Arizona town (although it was filmed in Spain, apparently), so that is why I’m calling it Vibrant Arizona.
An important note is that this Recipe uses D-Range Priority (a.k.a. DR-P), which takes the place of Dynamic Range and the Tone Curve (Highlight and Shadow). I don’t have a lot of Film Simulation Recipes which utilize D-Range Priority, but there are a few, including Pulled Fujicolor Superia, Scanned Superia, and Portra-Style, the last of which has some similarities to Vibrant Arizona.
This particular Recipe is for X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2s. For best results, use in sunny daylight. I shot in both the 3:2 and 16:9 aspect ratios, and preferred the latter for a more cinematic feel.
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: 4350K, +6 Red & -8 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR-P Strong
Color: +4
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to + 1 1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Vibrant Arizona (X-Trans IV)
Because X-Trans V cameras render blue more deeply on some film simulations, the X-Trans IV version of this Recipe calls for Color Chrome FX Blue to be set to Strong instead of Weak, and is otherwise identical. This Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. For the X-T3 and X-T30, you can ignore Grain size and Color Chrome FX Blue (since your camera doesn’t have those options), and use a 1/4 Black Pro Mist or 10% CineBloom diffusion filter in lieu of Clarity; however, it will look slightly different. For newer GFX models… I’m not sure if you should use this version or the X-Trans V version, but one of the two should work well on your camera—try them both, and see which you prefer.
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: 4350K, +6 Red & -8 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR-P Strong
Color: +4
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to + 1 1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Asteroid City Edit
If you aren’t satisfied with how well the Vibrant Arizona Film Simulation Recipe matches Asteroid City, there is a quick and easy Capture One edit that will make your pictures even closer to the aesthetic of the motion picture film. Simply import your straight-out-of-camera JPEGs (not the RAW!) into Capture One, find the Basic Color Editor, and make these adjustments:
Cyan
Hue -30
Lightness -20
Blue
Hue -20
Saturation +50
Those are the adjustments that I made to the picture above plus the five images below. You might have to stray from the above settings and modify the exact parameters, just depending on the photographs, but for these six, I followed them precisely and made no other changes. With this edit, the pictures are pretty convincing, and there’s no doubt that we’re mimicking Wes Anderson’s Asteroid City. Even though this will get you closer to the movie aesthetic, I personally prefer the unedited versions.
There was a moment while creating the above Recipes that I became particularly frustrated with the process, so I took a break, and instead worked on a different Wes Anderson look. I was inspired by the indoor scenes inside the newspaper office in the movie The French Dispatch, so I began working on a Film Simulation Recipe to mimic that aesthetic. The look is warm when shot in warm light, with somewhat muted colors and low contrast. This is a much different aesthetic than Asteroid City, but it is another Wes Anderson film that’s popular right now.
While the movie takes place in a fictional French town, it was filmed in the real town of Angouleme, which apparently (and appropriately) is known as the City of the Image. While these Recipes look quite interesting in outdoor daylight situations, they are intended for artificial and mixed indoor lighting, which is where they really shine. That’s why I’ve named the two Film Simulation Recipes below Indoor Angouleme. Although none of the movie was filmed in the 16:9 aspect ratio, I used it for these Recipes, but feel free to use whichever aspect ratio you prefer.
Indoor Angouleme (X-Trans V)
This version of the Indoor Angouleme Film Simulation Recipe uses the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. It also utilizes the Auto Ambience Priority White Balance, which I’ve only used once before (on the Ektachrome 320T Recipe). Indoor Angouleme is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2s. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too; however, it will likely render slightly differently.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg.
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak
White Balance: Auto Ambience Priority, -2 Red & -6 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -2
Shadow: -2
Color: -1
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Indoor Angouleme Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Indoor Angouleme (X-Trans IV)
The Nostalgic Neg. film sim is somewhat similar to Eterna, and can sometimes be closely mimicked with it. Since X-Trans IV models don’t have Nostalgic Neg., I used Eterna instead. While this version isn’t 100% identical to the X-Trans V Recipe, it is pretty close overall, and retains the same feel.
This version of Indoor Angouleme is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. To use it on the X-T3 and X-T30, ignore Color Chrome FX Blue and Grain size (since your camera doesn’t have those options), select regular AWB (since your camera doesn’t have the Ambience option), and use a 1/4 Black Pro Mist or 10% CineBloom diffusion filter in lieu of Clarity; however, it will look slightly different.
Film Simulation: Eterna
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Strong
Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong
White Balance: Auto Ambience Priority, -1 Red & -6 Blue
Dynamic Range: DR200
Highlight: -1
Shadow: -1
Color: +4
Sharpness: -2
High ISO NR: -4
Clarity: -3
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: 0 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Indoor Angouleme Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Fujifilm X-T5 in black: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X-E4 in black: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X-E4 in silver: Amazon B&H Moment
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Neutral Density filters, more commonly called ND filters, are very useful. It’s worthwhile to have at least one ND filter available for your photography. Maybe you don’t know which one (or ones) to own and why you’d use it. I recently got some ND filters, and perhaps my story will be helpful to you.
In my How to get Filmic Photographs from your iPhone article I explained that my wife has a Sandmarc case for her iPhone 13 Pro. I thought she’d also appreciate some ND filters for her phone, since she uses it regularly for videography, so I got her three Sandmarc ND filters that can attach to her iPhone case. You see, ND filters are common in cinematography because you want a shutter speed close to the frames-per-second you’re recording in order to avoid jutter (a.k.a. stutter or choppy) when panning or whenever there is movement. Getting a slow enough shutter speed in bright conditions can be difficult without an ND filter. Unfortunately, the ND filters didn’t really work out with her iPhone workflow, so they initially went unused. Not wanting to let the filters go to waste, I reimagined how they could be utilized, and I figured out how to make them work for me. Now I see them as an essential tool for my photography!
Before I get to the filters, I want to briefly talk about one other Sandmarc item I have: iPhone Tripod, Compact Edition. This was also for my wife, but she doesn’t use it often—only occasionally—so I borrow it regularly, except that I use it with my Fujifilm cameras and not my phone. I need a small tripod for my desk when I do the SOOC Live broadcasts, but the one I’ve owned for years kind of sucks and just barely works; however, with Season 3, I began using the Sandmarc tripod, and it is so much better—perfect for the job! I also discovered that it’s great for travel because it folds up very small and doesn’t take up much space (about 8.5 inches). The tripod only expands to a little taller than two feet, but it is sturdy enough to hold my X-T5 with a lens as large as the Fujinon 90mm, so for occasional casual use—which is all I ever use tripods for in my photography—it is just fine. Since getting it, the Sandmarc tripod has become my most-used. I don’t think that it’s intended for “real” cameras like the Fujifilm X-T5, but that’s what I use it for, and it works great. I bring this up because tripods are closely associate with ND filters.
Neutral Density filters block the amount of light entering the lens, which allows for slower shutter speeds. Why would you want to do this? I already mentioned that in cinematography, slowing the shutter can reduce juttering. In still photography, slowing down the shutter allows you to show motion by way of blurring moving things, and it allows for high-ISO photography in bright conditions.
Sandmarc’s iPhone ND filters come in a pack of three: ND16, ND32, and ND64. The ND16 reduces light by four stops, the ND32 reduces by five stops, and the ND64 reduces by six stops. I most commonly use the ND16, but for longer exposures, the other two certainly come in handy. Did I mention that Sandmarc’s ND filters are also polarized? They are! Polarizers reduce glare and haze, which can be particularly useful when photographing water. Pretty cool, eh?
So if these ND filters are made for iPhones, how am I using them on my Fujifilm cameras? Technically, I’m not using them on my camera, I’m attaching them to my Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 lens. The ND filters have 40.5mm threads, and the 27mm lens accepts 39mm threads, so I purchased a cheap Rise 39mm-40.5mm step-up ring, which allows me to use the Sandmarc ND filters on my Fujinon lens. It works like a charm!
There are three ways in which I’ve integrated ND filters into my photography: slow shutter with a tripod, slow shutter without a tripod, and high-ISO in daylight. I’ll briefly explain each below.
ND Filter + Tripod
The classic way ND filters are used for still photography is with a tripod. By utilizing a slow shutter speed, things within the frame that are moving will become a blur. Waterfalls are probably the most common subject for this technique, where water appears to be a streak of blur or even a mist if the exposure is long enough. Typically, a maximum shutter speed of 1/15 is required for blurring the subject, but there are a few factors—lens focal length, speed and distance of the subject, desired blur—that could affect the necessary shutter speed, either faster or slower. The longer the shutter is open, the more blur you will get. Because you want everything that’s not moving to be sharp, a tripod is required for this technique.
ND Filter without Tripod
Who says that pictures have to be sharp? Maybe you want everything in the frame to be blurry! For this, you simply remove the tripod and use a slow shutter while the camera is handheld. Panning is one example of this. Using a slow shutter speed without a tripod is probably the most difficult ND filter technique, but there is a lot of opportunity for creativity, which means there is potential for dramatic or interesting photographs. The longer the exposure the more difficult this technique is—unless you’re really going for abstract art—so be careful not to set the shutter too slow.
High ISO in Bright Daylight
You might think that purposefully setting a high-ISO in bright daylight is a weird thing to do. The general advice given since the beginning of photography is to use the lowest ISO that you can get away with. If you can use ISO 200, use ISO 200. If you need to bump it up to ISO 400 because the light is dimmer, use ISO 400. Only use ISO 800 if you have to. And ISO 1600 should be used with extreme caution. ISOs higher than that are for emergency purposes only. But is that still good advice? In my opinion, Fujifilm cameras are excellent at high-ISO because—thanks to the X-Trans sensor and processor—they better control the aesthetic of digital noise, rendering it more like film grain. In other words, purposefully using high-ISOs can produce a more analog-like result. Some of my Film Simulation Recipes actually require ultra-high ISOs, and using them in bright daylight can be difficult; however, ND filters make it much more practical. My X100V has a built-in ND filter, but my other Fujifilm cameras do not; ND filters have opened up the opportunity to use these high-ISO Recipes in situations that would be much more difficult otherwise—this is how I’m most often using my Sandmarc ND filters.
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Fujifilm X-T5 in black: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujinon 27mm f/2.8: Amazon B&H Moment
Note: the top four pictures were captured with a Fujifilm X-E4 & Fujinon 35mm f/2; images 1, 2 & 4 are Pacific Blues and image 3 is Kodak Portra 400 v2. The other pictures were captured using my Fujifilm X-T5 & Fujinon 27mm f/2.8 with a Sandmarc ND filter attached.
April showers bring May flowers, as the saying goes. Yes, it’s wildflower season already, and if you are not sure which Film Simulation Recipe to program into your Fujifilm camera to capture the colorful spectacle, this article should help with that. No matter which Fujifilm X-Trans camera you have, there’s a Recipe for you to try today!
This is far from a comprehensive list of Film Simulation Recipes that will work well for photographing spring blossoms. There are nearly 300 Recipes, and most of them could be a good choice, depending on the exact subject, lighting, and your style. This list is simply a selection of the ones that I personally like and can recommend to you. Feel free to try other Recipes not included in the list below. If I didn’t include your favorite Recipes for photographing spring flowers, let me know in the comments because I’d love to hear which ones you use. If you are not sure which Film Simulation Recipe to try, these recommendations should get you started.
X-Trans V
X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s
X-Trans IV — Part 1
X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II
X-Trans IV — Part 2
X-T3, X-T30
X-Trans III
X-Pro2, X100F, X-E3, X-T2, X-T20, X-H1
X-Trans II — Part 1
X100T, X-E2, X-E2s, X-T1, X-T10, X30, XQ2, X70
X-Trans II — Part 2
X100S, X20, XQ1
X-Trans I
X-Pro1, X-E1, X-M1
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
I’m always working on new Film Simulation Recipes. Even though there are nearly 300 on the Fuji X Weekly App (available for both Android and Apple), I’m nowhere near finished. There are so many more that I want to create!
Recently I’ve been working on two specific Recipes that I’m especially excited about. I’m not going to say today what they are inspired by or are supposed to mimic—feel free to guess in the comments! Both required a lot of testing and adjusting and retesting and readjusting… and compromises. I look forward to sharing them with you soon. Which one are you most excited for: Recipe 1 or Recipe 2? Let me know!
Why should you shoot with Film Simulation Recipes? It’s a part of a better way to get a retro film look. It’s one of seven tips to get a film look from your digital photos. It’s popular. Why do I? It saves me a ton of time over post-processing RAW files and is so much more fun—shooting with Recipes on Fujifilm cameras has had such a profound impact on my photography and my life, no hyperbole!
All photographs tell stories—a picture is worth a thousand words, after all—but storytelling photography is perhaps a step further than just ordinary picture-taking. How exactly do you effectively tell stories through photos? What gear do you need? Which techniques should you consider? Which Film Simulation Recipes are best?
All of those questions and more are discussed at length by myself and Fujifilm X-Photographer Nathalie Boucry in the video below, which was last week’s SOOC Live broadcast. If you haven’t yet watched it, I invite you to do so now. If you want to try this type of photography or simply challenge yourself to become better at telling stories through your pictures, this episode is a must-watch. Also, so you don’t miss any future broadcasts, be sure to follow the SOOC Live YouTube channel—Episode 1 and Episode 2 of Season 3, plus all of the first two seasons, can be found there, too.
Most simply, storytelling photography is a type of documentary photography. It is chronicling the important or everyday events that you’ll want to remember for many years to come, such as holidays or precious family moments. It is capturing the human experience—how people adapt to or effect the environment around them. It is eliciting a response from the viewer, weather prompting questions or evoking emotions. Perhaps most importantly, you should “f8 and be there” because storytelling pictures become more meaningful over time, so it is critical to be in the moment and capture the picture.
The four Film Simulation Recipes that Nathalie and I challenge you to use for storytelling photography are:
This is a versatile Film Simulation Recipe that produces classic Kodak negative film colors. This could easily be your go-to Recipe for almost any situation, as Reggie Ballesteros, the creator of this Recipe, will gladly attest. It is intended for “newer” X-Trans IV cameras—X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II; for X-Trans V, I recommend setting Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, and for the X-T3 and X-T30, simply ignore Color Chrome FX Blue and Grain strength, since your camera doesn’t have those options.
I love the retro rendering of this Recipe! It’s not quite as versatile as Reggie’s Portra, but, because it has a cooler cast, it does still do well in a variety of light situations. If you want to emphasize blues and reds, this is the one to use. It is intended for “newer” X-Trans IV cameras—X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II; for X-Trans V, I recommend setting Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak.
This Film Simulation Recipe reminds me of a reversal film aesthetic similar to Elite Chrome or Provia 100F, although it’s not modeled after those emulsions specifically. It has a lot of contrast, and (like slide film) you have to be careful to get the exposure right. Because of the cool cast, it can be used in some artificial light situations and produce good results. This Recipe is compatible with all X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 and X-T30; to use it on newer models, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and Grain size to Small.
This is a great black-and-white Recipe; I think B&W lends itself well to this genre in general, so definitely give it a try! It does require an ultra-high ISO, which is challenging for bright daylight photography—enable the electronic shutter for faster shutter speeds and stop down, or use an ND filter. It is compatible with all X-Trans III cameras, plus the X-T3 and X-T30; to use it on newer models, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and Grain size to Large.
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
Which Film Simulation Recipes are good for nighttime photography? With nearly 300 to choose from, it can be difficult to know when to use which Recipe. Almost all film emulsions are either Daylight-balanced or Tungsten-balanced; similarly, most Recipes are intended for daytime photography, and some are intended for nighttime photography. There are also some that, even though made for sunny conditions, still do well after the sun goes down. So let me suggest to you 10 Film Simulation Recipes that do well at night!
Depending on the exact light situation, some Film Simulation Recipes that are intended for daytime use will still look good at night, and other times they will produce a strong warm cast that you might not like. While adjusting the White Balance to better suite the situation is always an acceptable option (“season to taste” the Recipe), picking a Recipe that is intended for the light situation you are in is my preferred method. Like film, it’s better to pick the “right” one that matches the conditions you’ll be shooting in, but there’s no right or wrong way to do photography, so you’ll have to decode what works for you.
Of course, everyone has different tastes. There are some Recipes that you might love, and some that you might not. Your favorite after-dark Recipe might not be in this list, as it’s not comprehensive. There are certainly other Recipes that I have personally used and liked for nighttime photography; however, these are ones that I think are especially well-suited. A couple were tough cuts, and would certainly have been included if it was 15 Recipes and not 10.
If you are not sure which Film Simulation Recipe to use at night, try one of these!
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
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I remember when ISO 400 used to be consider high ISO. In fact, the “H” in Fujicolor Pro 400H means high ISO. When I shot film, I usually didn’t go higher than ISO 400, although on a rare occasion I did go wild and use an ISO 800, 1600, or (gasp!) 3200 emulsion (those were ultra-high-ISOs back then), when the expected light was dim and a tripod wasn’t practical. When I started shooting digital almost 15 years ago, I remember that ISO 1600 on my first DSLR was barely usable in a pinch, and it was best to stay at or below ISO 800. Nowadays those limitations are long gone.
Thanks to the X-Trans color array, Fujifilm is better able to differentiate color noise from color information (than with a Bayer array), allowing more control over how noise is rendered. Because of this, the APS-C sensor on Fujifilm X cameras does pretty darn well at high-ISO photography. Yes, it can get noisy, but the noise is more organic-looking and less color-splotchy (perhaps even a little film-grain-like) than non-X-Trans cameras typically produce.
Still, a lot of photographers are hesitant to try high-ISO photography. I’ve had someone tell me that they never go beyond ISO 800 on their Fujifilm cameras. Someone else said that they don’t use Film Simulation Recipes with DR400 because it requires an ISO that they’re not comfortable using. Everyone has their own preferred upper ISO limit—mine might be higher than yours, and that’s ok. What I’d like to do, though, is encourage you to step outside of your comfort zone, and try some ISOs that you would not normally—or perhaps ever—use.
You might want to use ultra-high-ISOs—which I consider to be ISO 12800 and higher, but your definition might be different—in dim light situations, such as at night or in a poorly lit room. That’s probably the most common reason. I will sometimes use really high ISOs in daylight when it’s not even necessary just for the aesthetic of it. Crazy, right?! I think sometimes digital can appear too clean, and an ultra-high-ISO can give the picture a grittier look, more similar to some film emulsions.
Of course, using ultra-high-ISOs in daylight can be problematic because the light is strong. My Fujifilm X100V has a built-in ND filter, which makes it more practical. Otherwise, screwing an ND filter onto the end of the lens will help. If you don’t have one, be sure to use your camera’s electronic shutter (instead of the mechanical one) because it is capable of faster shutter speeds. You might also have to use small apertures like f/11 or f/16 to reduce the light entering the camera.
If you want to give it a try, below are seven Film Simulation Recipes that use ultra-high-ISOs. Many of them go “up to” an ultra-high-ISO, so in that case you’d want to purposefully choose a high ISO instead of a low one. Give one or more of these Recipes a try today! Leave a comment to let me know which one (or ones) you like. My personal top favorites are GAF 500 for color and Kodak Tri-X 400 for B&W.
ISO 12800
Up to ISO 12800
Up to ISO 25600
ISO 1600-12800
ISO 12800
ISO 3200-12800
ISO 25600-51200
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
Help Fuji X Weekly
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
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I almost always have several experimental Film Simulation Recipes programmed into each of my Fujifilm cameras. Sometimes these developmental settings become Recipes and sometimes they don’t (more don’t than do). Occasionally I forget the story behind an experimental Recipe—why the settings are the way they are, and what I was intending to mimic. It might have been a film photograph I saw, or a film stock someone requested I copy, or a certain photographer’s aesthetic—whatever it was, I just don’t remember. That’s the case with this Recipe: it was programmed into C5 on my Fujifilm X-E4 with the custom name “Exp 9/21” and no further details. I suppose I initially created it back on September 21, but I don’t remember why. The story of it is a complete mystery to me.
Just recently I noticed this Recipe in my camera, and—not remembering what it was—I decided to shoot with it. And I was blown away. The results were stunning! Why didn’t I use it back in September? I don’t know. What I do know is that it produces beautiful analog-like pictures. It reminds me of Fujicolor Superia—maybe 200 or 400—overexposed by about a stop, and shot with a warming filter (such as an 81a or 81b) or maybe with a Takumar lens that has turned yellow due to the thorium coating—perhaps printed on Kodak paper, too, instead of Fujifilm Crystal Archive. It has a strong warm cast, but still retains that distinct Superia palette, so I’m calling it Superia Summer. I cannot overstate just how much I like it!
This Superia Summer Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras. Because Blue is rendered more deeply on X-Trans V cameras, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off in order to use it on the X-T5, X-H2, or X-H2s (or any other X-Trans V camera that is released after this writing). For the X100V and X-Pro3, I recommend using the Fujicolor 100 Gold Recipe or Superia Xtra 400 Recipe instead, which produce similar results, or simply set Highlight to -1 and Shadow to 0. For best results, use the Superia Summer Film Simulation Recipe in sunny daytime light; it does alright in cloudy conditions, too, as long as it’s not thick overcast.
Classic Negative
Dynamic Range: DR400
Highlight: -1.5
Shadow: -0.5
Color: +1
Noise Reduction: -4
Sharpness: -1
Clarity: -4
Grain Effect: Weak, Small
Color Chrome Effect: Off
Color Chrome Effect Blue: Weak
White Balance: 5300K, +3 Red & -6 Blue
ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400
Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Superia Summer” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-E4:
Comparison:
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Fujifilm X-E4 in black: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X-E4 in silver: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujinon 27mm: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujinon 90mm: Amazon B&H Moment
Find this Film Simulation Recipe and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
Help Fuji X Weekly
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
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I shared with you yesterday that Mango Street posted a YouTube video entitled If Camera Brands Were People, where they (in all humor) suggested that Fujifilm photographers use Film Simulation Recipes to capture images of basketball hoops. Of course that’s true, at least to some extent, because I have photographed a few hoops over the years, and I imagine that some of you have, too. To be fully honest, I’ve been photographing basketball hoops long before I ever picked up my first Fujifilm camera. Also, I should disclose that basketball hoops are rarely in my pictures, only occasionally.
Despite my limited experience in this specific genre, just for fun and to expound on Mango Street’s comedy, I will suggest to you seven Film Simulation Recipes for photographing basketball hoops. These are certainly not the only Recipes that will work well for this, and they might not even be the best, but they are ones that I have personally used, so I am happy to recommend them to you. You’ll find the seven Recipes below.
This is, of course, my least serious article of this type. The other posts where I suggest Recipes for different scenarios are intended to be helpful, and not funny like this one. Even so, I do hope that at least one of these seven is worth your consideration the next time you encounter an interesting basketball hoop somewhere out in the wilds of suburbia. You might want to bookmark this page, just in case.
See also:
Five Film Simulation Recipes Every Social Media Influencer Should Try on Their Fujifilm X100V
Elevating Your Street Photography with Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes + 5 Recipes to Try Today!
The 10 Best Film Simulation Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App
5 Film Simulation Recipes every Fujifilm X-T5 Photographer Should Try
Try These 5 Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes Today for a Color Negative Film Look
Which Film Simulation Recipes, When?
Why Shooting JPEGs Is So Popular (& 10 Fujifilm Simulation Recipes!)
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and so many more in the Fuji X Weekly App! Download for free today; consider becoming an App Patron to unlock the best experience and support the work of this website.
After yesterday’s Take the Blind Blind Film Simulation Recipe Test article, I’ve been asked a couple of times what were the 10 Film Simulation Recipes that I provided to Andrew Goodcamera. You see, he asked me to give him a list of the Top 10 most popular Film Simulation Recipes of 2022. Now, I have no way of knowing which are the most used; however, I can tell which are the Top 10 most viewed Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly website. Are page-views a good indication of use? Probably, but it’s also quite possible that some Recipes are overrepresented and others are underrepresented. Unfortunately I don’t have a more accurate metric, so this will have to suffice.
Below you will find the Top 10 most popular Film Simulation Recipes of 2022 based on page-views, in order from least to most popular. Seven of them are X-Trans IV Recipes (for the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, & X-T30 II cameras), and three are X-Trans III Recipes (plus compatible with the X-T3 & X-T30). X-Trans V Recipes are pretty new—the oldest published in the third week of November—so it make sense that none made this list, and I suspect that they’ll become increasingly more popular throughout 2023. The Recipes for X-Trans I, II, Bayer, and GFX just aren’t nearly popular enough to crack this list (not likely a Top 20 list, either). The majority of people who shoot using Film Simulation Recipes are doing so on X-Trans III and newer cameras, and the largest group are shooting with X-Trans IV models.
Interestingly, the Classic Chrome Recipe, which is the second one ever published on Fuji X Weekly, ranks pretty high. Black-and-white Recipes aren’t usually as popular as color, so I’m happy to see the Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe climb the list. I’m not surprised by much else, so let’s get to that list!
Top 10 Film Simulation Recipes of 2022:
Number 10:
Number 9:
Number 8:
Number 7:
Number 6:
Number 5:
Number 4:
Number 3:
Number 2:
Number 1:
Which of these Film Simulation Recipes do you use most? What is your favorite Recipe not found on this list? Let me know in the comments!
I also thought it would be interesting to see if 2023 is trending different so far, or if the Recipes rank the same. While the top half of the list looks nearly identical, there are some notable differences in the bottom half. Pacific Blues is one of my top-favorite recipes, so I’m happy to see it crack the Top 10.
Top 10 Film Simulation Recipes of 2023 (so far…):
Number 10:
Number 9:
Number 8:
Number 7:
Number 6:
Number 5:
Number 4:
Number 3:
Number 2:
Number 1:
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and nearly 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
Andrew Goodcamera (formally known as Andrew & Danae) just published a YouTube video in which he conducts a blind film simulation and Film Simulation Recipe test. In the video Andrew shows six sets of 15 pictures. The images are a mix of stock film simulations (no recipe) and various Film Simulation Recipes. As you watch, you are supposed to take note of which pictures stand out to you—perhaps even take a guess at which Recipe you think was used for your favorite—and maybe discover a new Recipe to try that you didn’t realize you’d like. It’s a fun little experiment!
Back in January Andrew reached out to me because he had a video idea, and he needed a list of popular Film Simulation Recipes for it. He didn’t tell me what his video idea was, only that he was going to mention Fuji X Weekly and needed a list of Recipes. I happily provided him with what he requested, and that was the end of the story until today when I noticed he posted a new video. I’m very appreciative for his kind words and honored for the shoutout—thank you, Andrew!
I’m not going to say anything more until you’ve watched the video. I have some commentary that I want to add, but don’t want to spoil it for you, so take a moment right now to watch the video. Don’t scroll past the video below until you’ve watched it! Oh, and make sure you have a notepad handy to keep track of your picks.
Did you watch it? If so, keep scrolling down and let’s compare notes. If not, this is your last chance before you encounter some spoilers, so don’t go any further until you’ve seen the above video!
I had provided Andrew with 10 Film Simulation Recipes, which were the top ten most popular (by page views) from 2022. I wasn’t sure if he had used all of them or not, and I didn’t find out until the reveal that he had used six. I didn’t try to guess which pictures were which Recipes, but just wrote down which three images I liked most (best, second best, and third best) in each set.
What I picked most was picture J. In almost every set (four out of six) I chose that one as my favorite, and if it wasn’t number one it was second or third favorite (six selections total). I had a strong suspicion that it was Pacific Blues, and it turns out that it was indeed that Recipe. Pacific Blues is one of my absolute favorite Recipes, and this blind test just affirms that.
My next most-picked picture was O, although it was not my top favorite in any of the sets, only second or third (picked four times total). I wasn’t really sure which one that was, and was surprised when it was Vintage Kodachrome. I haven’t shot much with that particular Recipe in awhile, so I guess I need to!
The third-most picked picture was G (picked three times total: once number one and twice number two). I had a hunch that it was Kodachrome 64, but I wasn’t certain; turns out my hunch was right.
Picture I, which turned out to be Kodak Portra 400, was picked once for number one and once for number two. Picture H, which turned out to be Kodak Ektar 100, and picture D, which was my Classic Chrome Recipe, were each selected once for third favorite. The only stock film simulation (non-Recipe) picture that I selected was E, which is default Classic Negative, chosen once for third favorite.
Now it’s your turn! What were your top picks? Were you surprised by your findings? Comment below to let me know!
One last note: if you missed today’s SOOC Live broadcast about Street Photography, you can watch it now (click here). We had a great show, which was the first with the new format, so you’ll want to make sure to give it a view. Also, I want to give a big “thank you” to everyone who tuned in and participated!
Street photography is a very popular genre, and I get asked fairly frequently what my favorite gear is for it. While I do dabble in street photography, it’s not my most common photographic subject; however, I’ve done enough street photography that I feel comfortable giving gear recommendations for it. In this article I’ll tell you what I use and why.
While there is no definitive explanation, street photography is best described as pictures of chance encounters in public places. It often takes place in urban environments (such as downtown city centers), but it is certainly not limited to that. Some will say that humans must be included in the pictures for it to be street photography, but others will argue that the effects of humanity within the environment is acceptable, and some believe that any urban image fits within the genre. It is commonly understood that street photography involves candid (unstaged) pictures, but some will state that it is the chance encounters that are most important, and it is okay to provide some direction to that randomness in order to create a stronger picture. In other words, there’s no universal answer to what exactly street photography is, but most of the time you recognize it when you see it.
If you’ve never done street photography but want to try, the first place to start is understanding the laws and customs of the place you are photographing. Each country is different, and it may even vary from specific location to specific location. You want to understand your rights as a photographer in a public location, and the rights of those potentially being photographed. Besides the legal question, there is the ethical one: should you? While something might be legally ok, it does not necessarily mean that it is moral. These are all things that you should consider before attempting any street photography. Research the local laws. Consider what you are comfortable photographing and why, and what you are not comfortable photographing and why not. I cannot emphasize this step enough, and I encourage you to spend some time on these questions before heading out with your camera.
After that, the next step is to go to a public place and capture some candid images. The most common location is an urban environment, such as the center of a large city, but it can be anywhere where people are. If you don’t have easy access to a large downtown, consider what is nearby where you live. Even if you live in a small town or a rural location, I bet there are opportunities nearby if you look hard enough.
Now, let’s discuss gear. To be clear, you can use any camera. I’ve done street photography with most of my gear. There are a few tools that I do prefer over others, but if you don’t have these don’t worry too much about it, because whatever gear you currently own is good enough. The list below is simply the cameras that I personally prefer for street photography.
Fujifilm X100V
This is my favorite camera for street photography. Actually, it’s my favorite camera, period. The Fujifilm X100V is my “desert island” model—if I could own only one camera for the rest of my life, it would be this. There are a few things that make it especially good for street photography.
First, it’s pretty small. It’s good for carrying as you walk around for awhile, and people don’t often get intimidated by it like they would with a larger body. Second, the leaf shutter is basically silent, and allows you to be more stealthy. Yes, electronic shutters are silent, too, but they do have a couple of drawbacks that might affect your photography (situationally dependent), so a silent mechanical shutter is an excellent feature. Third, the optical viewfinder allows you to see outside the frame to better anticipate the decisive moment. There are many other things that make the camera great, such as the build quality, weather sealing, traditional tactile controls, built-in ND filter, etc., etc.; this isn’t a review of the X100V, just some reasons why it is my favorite tool for street photography.
Perhaps the top thing that makes the Fujifilm X100V great for street photography are all the Film Simulation Recipes that you can program into the camera. Almost no matter the aesthetic you want to achieve, there is a Recipe that will allow you to get the look straight-out-of-camera, no editing needed. This can make street photography more fun, while saving you time and frustration later.
The only accessories that I commonly use on my X100V are a Hoage filter adapter, Fotasy UV filter, and 5% CineBloom filter (I only use one filter at a time).
Fujifilm X100V in black: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X100V in silver: Amazon B&H Moment
Ricoh GR III
The Ricoh GR III is a super small and compact camera that you can literally carry with you everywhere, since it fits so easily into a pocket or purse. If you own a Ricoh GR III, there is no excuse for not having it with you. Since photo opportunities aren’t always planned, it’s important to have quick access to a camera at all times, and this model makes it easy. I try to carry my GR III with me whenever I go out, even if it is just to the grocery store.
There are a few reasons why I like the GR III for street photography in particular. Since it is so small and unassuming, most people won’t figure you to be a photographer; if they even notice that you have a camera, they’ll likely think you are a snap-shooter or tourist, and will often disregard you. The 27.5mm (equivalent) lens gives a wide view, which can be good for showing context. Like the X100V, the GR III has a nearly silent leaf shutter. If you don’t want to be noticed, this camera is probably the best bet. There are certainly drawbacks to the GR III (no model is perfect), but for the size and weight it is pretty darn excellent.
There are Recipes for the Ricoh GR III, although not nearly as many as there are for the Fujifilm X100V. If you want to skip picture editing (called one-step photography), the GR III is a solid option that should be strongly considered. In fact, the Fujifilm X100V and the Ricoh GR III compliment each other, and can coexist comfortably in your camera bag.
Ricoh GR III: Amazon B&H Moment
iPhone
Since you always have your phone, you always have a camera. If you accidentally left your “real” cameras at home, no worries! Your cellphone camera is a perfectly capable photographic tool. My current cellphone is an iPhone 11. I don’t think your cellphone make and model matter much—any cellphone camera will suffice—but I personally prefer Apple, since I can use the RitchieCam camera app, which is only available for iOS (click here).
The iPhone is great for street photography because nobody thinks twice about seeing someone with their phone out. Even if you do get “caught” capturing a picture, you can easily fake that you are taking a selfie or texting someone or some other typical phone action. Many cellphones have multiple focal length options, so they’re surprisingly versatile. My favorite accessory is the Moment Tele 58mm lens.
While I do use my phone for photography, I also use it for another important reason: Apps! Specifically, the Fuji X Weekly App (Android, Apple) and the Ricoh Recipes App (Android, Apple). In my opinion, those are essential tools to accompany your Fujifilm and Ricoh cameras.
Let me show you a few more street images that I captured recently.
The three above pictures, despite being pretty different overall, all have something in common (besides being street photography). If you want to know what it is, you’ll have to tune into SOOC Live on March 2. Nathalie Boucry and I will be discussing the theme of street photography, including things like gear and Film Simulation Recipes and such. Mark your calendars now! Be sure to subscribe to the SOOC Live YouTube channel so that you don’t miss out on all the great upcoming broadcasts.
See also: Elevating Your Street Photography with Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes + 5 Recipes to Try Today!
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Getting an analog color negative film look from your Fujifilm camera is super easy! Pick a Film Simulation Recipe, program it into your camera, and photograph with it. You can get straight-out-of-camera analog-like results that don’t require any editing. But with almost 300 Recipes published on this website and the Fuji X Weekly App, it can be difficult to know which ones to choose. If you are not sure, let me suggest to you the five below. Yes, there are many others that will also get you a color negative film look, so this list is by no means definitive, but it might be a good starting point.
I’m doing more to suggest to you Film Simulation Recipes to try in various situations and for different aesthetics. This article is simply a short suggestion of Recipes that will give you a color negative film-like look. If that’s what you want to achieve, I invite you to try these today!
Fujicolor Reala 100 is compatible with the Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II; for X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak. Fujicolor Natura 1600 is compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II; for X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Weak. Fujicolor Pro 400H and Kodak Portra 400 are compatible with the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II; for X-Trans V, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off. Kodak Gold 200 is compatible with X-Trans III plus the X-T3 and X-T30; for newer X-Trans IV models, set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, set Clarity to 0, and choose a Grain size (I recommend Small).
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and so many more in the Fuji X Weekly App! Download for free today; consider becoming an App Patron to unlock the best experience and support the work of this website.
See also:
Five Film Simulation Recipes Every Social Media Influencer Should Try on Their Fujifilm X100V
Elevating Your Street Photography with Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes + 5 Recipes to Try Today!
The 10 Best Film Simulation Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App
5 Film Simulation Recipes every Fujifilm X-T5 Photographer Should Try.
I wrote an article for Moment—Why Shooting JPEGs Is So Popular (& 10 Fujifilm Simulation Recipes)—and they published it today! If you have a few minutes, click the link and check it out.
What’s the story behind this article? I had a great conversation with Moment recently, and we discussed various ways that we might be able to collaborate. Moment is the coolest camera store, so it’s really an honor to partner with them in any way that I can. And we have in the past. I wrote part of an article—Why I Never Shoot RAW — FujiFilm Simulations, Recipes, and More!—with Joshua Martin that they published back in September of 2021. Right around that same time we gave away five CineBloom filters, too. Although not a collab, I also reviewed Moment’s 58mm Cellphone Lens. The article they published today came out of the recent conversation we had.
I hope the Why Shooting JPEGs Is So Popular article will achieve several different things. First, I want to reach Fujifilm photographers who have never heard of Fuji X Weekly and Film Simulation Recipes (yes, there are some), and perhaps they will find it all very fascinating and give one a try. Second, I want to reach those who shoot Fujifilm cameras and have heard of Recipes, but perhaps have been too apprehensive to actually use them, and maybe now they will. Third, I want to convince some who shoot Canikony and are frustrated with their current RAW workflow to buy a Fujifilm camera and give Recipes a try. Fourth, I want to explain to those who just don’t “get it” why more and more photographers are choosing to shoot JPEGs and not edit their images, because some of those who have never tried it just can’t fathom why anyone would. Fifth, I want to encourage those who do shoot with Film Simulation Recipes and some grumpy stranger on the internet tells them that they’re doing it wrong; there’s a movement within photography, and you’re a part of it, which is really an incredible thing when you think about it.
There might be more collaboration opportunities between Fuji X Weekly and Moment—this article was simply the next step in a growing partnership. I don’t know for sure what the future collabs might be, but we definitely tossed around several cool ideas. We’ll have to wait and see which ones happen and which don’t, and if other new opportunities arise. In the meantime, I hope that you enjoy the article!
I’m constantly asked which Film Simulation Recipes should be used in what situations. With approaching 300 Recipes to choose from, it can be hard to know which ones to program into your camera, and what situations to use them in. I’m trying to be more helpful with that, and this article will hopefully provide you with some good guidance.
You might ask why just three. Why not seven Recipes, since there are seven Custom Settings presets? First, it would make this article much too long. I would need to separate it into a handful of parts, published over a couple week period. Second, I think it might discourage discovery. If I said to use these certain seven, one could try them and perhaps even like all of them, and then they might stop searching for others; in doing so, they could miss out on discovering one or two that would become their favorites. So if I suggest just a few, then the opportunity to discover others later is still wide open. I have already published recently a number of articles to encourage discovery—and I plan to post many more—each with a unique approach, which hopefully will resonate with some of you, and be helpful in your quest to find which ones you like to use in various situations.
Another question you might have right out the gate is how can there possible be three Film Simulation Recipes that will work on almost all Fujifilm cameras. There’s not. So what I’ve done instead is suggest three for each of the different sensors or generations. You’ll find something for X-Trans I, II, III, IV, and V, as well as Bayer and GFX. I even included three for the X-T3 and X-T30, as well as three for the X-Trans II cameras that don’t have Classic Chrome. Almost everyone is covered, but for certain there are some cameras that got left out. If that’s your situation, I’m sorry. For the vast majority reading this, you will find below three Recipes to try on your Fujifilm camera, with some brief commentary on when to use each of them. I hope there’s at least one that you try and like; if not, there are so many others to choose from on this website and the Fuji X Weekly App.
X-Trans V
Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, X-H2S
Use the Kodachrome 64 Film Simulation Recipe for outdoor daylight photography. Can produce good results in overcast weather, shade, natural light indoors, and even sometimes nighttime photography, but is most ideal for sunny daylight and golden hour situations. Use for documentary, street, travel, landscape, still-life, and portrait photography.
Use the Kodak Ultramax 400 Film Simulation Recipe for almost any situation, as it is a highly versatile option. Sunny, cloudy, indoor, nighttime, landscapes, portraits—it’s good for them all and more.
Use the 1970’s Summer Film Simulation Recipe on sunny days. It produces a vintage aesthetic reminiscent of American New Color images, and is good for street, travel, and documentary photography.
X-Trans IV
Fujifilm X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II
Use the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Film Simulation Recipe for outdoor daylight photography. An excellent option for golden hour or sunny situations. Use for portrait, travel, documentary, landscape, or still-life photography.
Use the Pacific Blues Film Simulation Recipe for a sunny summer day at the beach. Is also good for dreary overcast, fog, or most any natural light situation. Produces dramatic landscapes and portraits.
Use the Fujicolor Superia 800 Film Simulation Recipe for natural light situations, whether indoor or outdoor. Good for street, travel, documentary, and portrait photography.
X-Trans IV (Part 2)
Fujifilm X-T3, X-T30
Use the Kodak Vision3 250D Film Simulation Recipe for street, travel, documentary, still-life, and portrait photography. Excellent for sunny daylight conditions, but does well in overcast, shade, natural light indoor, blue hour, and some artificial light situations, too.
Use the Kodak Gold 200 Film Simulation Recipe in daylight conditions, especially golden hour. Is best for sunny situations, but also does well in overcast, shade, and indoor natural light. Use it for landscapes, street, documentary, travel, still-life, and portrait photography.
Use the Classic Kodak Film Simulation Recipe for sunny daylight and golden hour photography. Is good for street, travel, documentary, and landscape photography.
X-Trans III
Fujifilm X-Pro2, X100F, X-E3, X-T2, X-T20, X-H1
Use the Ektachrome E100GX Film Simulation Recipe for daylight photography. Is best for sunny situations, particularly golden hour, but is also good for overcast, shade, and indoor natural light. Use for landscape, street, documentary, and portrait photography.
Use the Kodachrome II Film Simulation Recipe for daylight photography. Is best for sunny situations, particularly golden hour, but is also good for shade, overcast, and indoor natural light. Use for street, travel, documentary, still-life, portrait, and landscape photography.
Use the CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe for nighttime and artificial light photography. Excellent for street and urban scenes after dark.
X-Trans II
Fujifilm X100T, X-E2, X-E2S, X-T1, X-T10, X70, X30, XQ2
Use the Classic Kodak Chrome Film Simulation Recipe for almost any situation, as it is a highly versatile option. Sunny, cloudy, indoor, nighttime, landscapes, portraits, street, travel—it’s good for them all and more.
Use the Kodak Color Negative Film Simulation Recipe for daylight photography. Does especially well for golden hour, but is good for any natural light situation. Use this for landscape and documentary photography.
Use the Ektachrome 100SW Film Simulation Recipe for almost any situation, as it is a highly versatile option. Sunny, cloudy, indoor, nighttime, landscapes, portraits—it’s good for them all and more. Produces vibrant results.
X-Trans II (Part 2)
Fujifilm X100S, X20, XQ1
Use the Color Negative Film Film Simulation Recipe for daylight photography. It is great for sunny situations, but is also good for overcast, shade, and indoor natural light. Use this for landscape, portrait, and documentary photography.
Use the Fujichrome Slide Film Simulation Recipe for outdoor daylight situations. Good for dramatic landscape photography.
Use the Astia Film Simulation Recipe for sunny daylight photography. Great for landscape photography.
X-Trans I
Fujifilm X-Pro1, X-E1, X-M1
Use the Reminiscent Print Film Simulation Recipe for daylight photography. Great for sunny situations, but also good for shade, overcast, and indoor natural light. Use it for street, travel, documentary, landscape, still-life, and portrait photography.
Use the Vivid Color Film Simulation Recipe for vibrant color images. Ideal for sunny daylight and especially golden hour photography, but also good for overcast, shade, indoor natural light, artificial light, blue hour, and sometimes nighttime situations. Use for landscape, travel, and documentary photography.
Use the Color Negative Film Film Simulation Recipe for daylight situations. Great for sunny daylight, but also good for overcast, shade, and indoor natural light. Use for landscape, travel, and documentary photography.
Bayer
Fujifilm X-A3, X-A5, X-A7, X-A10, XF10, X-T100, X-T200
Use the Golden Negative Film Simulation Recipe for sunny daylight situations. Great for landscape, travel, and documentary photography.
Use the Classic Chrome Film Simulation Recipe for daylight photography. Excellent for sunny situations, but works well in many different light conditions, including sometimes indoor artificial light and nighttime. Use for street, travel, documentary, landscape, still-life, and portraits.
Use the Analog Cool Film Simulation Recipe for sunny daylight conditions, or overly warm light such as indoor artificial light. Good for landscapes and documentary photography.
GFX
GFX-50R, GFX-50S
Use the Classic Negative Industrial Film Simulation Recipe for dramatic landscapes, portraits, and documentary photography. Ideal for sunny daylight, it is also good for overcast, shade, and indoor natural light situations.
Use the Ektachrome Film Simulation Recipe for daylight situations, including sunny, overcast, shade, and indoor natural light. Good for landscape, travel, documentary, and portrait photography.
Use the Provia 400 Film Simulation Recipe for sunny daylight situations, especially golden hour. Use for landscape and travel photography.
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and so many more in the Fuji X Weekly App! Download for free today; consider becoming an App Patron to unlock the best experience and support the work of this website.
See also:
Five Film Simulation Recipes Every Social Media Influencer Should Try on Their Fujifilm X100V
Using Film Simulation Recipes to Recreate Vintage Looks — 10 Recipes to Try Today!
Elevating Your Street Photography with Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes + 5 Recipes to Try Today!
The 10 Best Film Simulation Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App
5 Film Simulation Recipes every Fujifilm X-T5 Photographer Should Try.
The Fujifilm X-T5 was released just last November, and it’s already a big hit. Perhaps you just purchased one, or maybe you own an X-H2 or X-H2S (the other X-Trans V models), and you’re not sure which Film Simulation Recipes to try. While so far I’ve only published 15 Recipes that are specifically compatible with the X-T5, there are actually a lot more; in fact, on the Fuji X Weekly App (Android, Apple), there are 40! You see, some X-Trans IV Recipes are compatible with X-Trans V, and some require a slight modification (I’m working on getting those updated for X-Trans V, but it is a slow process). There’s also an App Patron Early-Access Recipe for the X-T5.
You might very well know exactly which Film Simulation Recipes to use on your Fujifilm X-T5, but in case you are unsure, below are five that you should definitely try.
Kodachrome 64 replicates the aesthetic of the beloved Kodachrome color slide film from Kodak, which graced the covers of magazines like National Geographic and Arizona Highways. This is a great option for sunny daytime photography. Looking for a 1980’s or 1990’s vibe? Try this Recipe!
The Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe is modeled after the popular Kodak color negative film. Excellent for sunny daylight and especially golden hour photography; as the name suggests, this is good for outdoor portraits. Looking for a contemporary film aesthetic? They this one!
Produces a look similar to the Kodak Ultramax 400 color negative emulsion. Because this Recipe uses Auto White Balance, it has a lot of versatility, and is good for many different situations, including daylight, shade, overcast, indoor, and nighttime. Want a 1990’s and 2000’s look? Give this recipe a try!
Pacific Blues is modeled after Lucy Laucht‘s Spirit of Summer series, particularly the Positano Blues photographs. While it is intended for the endless sun of a summer day at the beach, it’s also good for dramatic results in a number of situations, including dreary overcast and fog. Want a contemporary analog aesthetic with nostalgic vibes? This Recipe is for you!
This Recipe produces a distinct American New Color aesthetic. For best results, use in sunny daylight conditions. Want a 1970’s look? Try this Recipe!
See also:
Which Film Simulation Recipes, When?
The 10 Best Film Simulation Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App
Elevating Your Street Photography with Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes + 5 Recipes to Try Today!
Using Film Simulation Recipes to Recreate Vintage Looks — 10 Recipes to Try Today!
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and over 250 more on the Fuji X Weekly — Film Recipes App!
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Fujifilm X-T5 in black: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver: Amazon B&H Moment
“I’ve been working on my photos from October rather than reviews….”
—Ken Rockwell, February 2, 2023
I just stumbled upon that quote from Ken, which was followed by an iPhone photo from October (that’s why this article begins with an iPhone picture). I bet a lot of you can relate to his statement. When you photograph a lot, your post-processing workflow can get backed up quite a bit. I have thousands of unprocessed RAW files that have been sitting on a now-obsolete computer’s hard drive for at least seven years now. I get it: you’ve got stuff to do, and your limited time is being pulled every which way, so something’s got to give.
I discovered that there’s a better way. There’s no need to get four or five months behind. There’s no need to let your photographic work back up so much. You can can accomplish so much more with the time that you’ll save. What is this better way? It’s really simple: shoot JPEGs, and skip the picture editing step (called One Step Photography, as explained by Ansel Adams in his book Polaroid Land Camera). More and more photographers are embracing this approach.
Ken Rockwell knows this. Not only does he often shoot JPEGs, but he once tried one of my Film Simulation Recipes on a Fujifilm camera. He shoots with a lot of brands, and Fujifilm isn’t his main make. I have Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm cameras, I have Recipes for Ricoh GR cameras, and I have an iPhone camera app called RitchieCam; if you don’t shoot with Fujifilm, Ricoh, or iPhone, your options are much more limited (I did make a few Recipes for Nikon Z, too, but it’s a pretty small number).
The reason why it’s important to shoot with Recipes is because the settings have been fine-tuned to produce a particular aesthetic that doesn’t require editing. The images look good straight from the camera, as if they had been post-processed or perhaps were even shot on film. Except they weren’t, which saves you a ton of time, money, and hassle. If you aren’t shooting with Recipes, you are most certainly doing some amount of post-processing, whether you shoot RAW or JPEG. There are some people who do still edit their camera-made-using-Recipes JPEGs, but they’re doing much less editing than they otherwise would be. The point of using Film Simulation Recipes is to edit less or (preferably) not at all, which has a huge upside, but it does require Recipes that produce excellent results, and a little extra care by the photographer in the field, since “I’ll fix it in post” isn’t really an option.
If Ken had used a Fujifilm camera programmed with Fuji X Weekly Recipes, surely he would not be busy right now post-processing pictures captured way back in October. Instead, he’d be writing those reviews that have been delayed, or out on some other photographic adventure. The October exposures would have been completed in October, or maybe early November at the latest. If he had used RitchieCam, there would be no need to process his iPhone images with Skylum software, because they would have been ready-to-publish the moment they were captured. Ken, you should try my iPhone camera app. And you should shoot with Fujifilm cameras more often.
With the Canikony brands, shooting awesome straight-out-of-camera (SOOC) JPEGs isn’t as easy or prevalent. Sure, it can be done, but it is much more often done with other brands because of things like the Fuji X Weekly App, which contains approaching 300 Film Simulation Recipes for Fujifilm cameras, so no matter your desired aesthetic, there’s a Recipe for you. Download the Fuji X Weekly App for free today (Android here, Apple here), and consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience. Ken is sitting at a computer right now fiddling with files, since he didn’t shoot with Fujifilm cameras programmed with Film Simulation Recipes.
People seem to either love or hate Ken Rockwell. To be clear, this article is not bashing him. I’ve actually had correspondence with Ken, and he seems like a very nice guy. I think his “real” personality is much more kind and genuine than his online persona, which can sometimes come across as abrasive and perhaps even offensive. If you hate him, I would suggest that you reach out to him with an open mind and heart, and try to get to know him a little, because your mind might get changed, even if just a bit. Personally, I have found some of his articles, insights, and commentary to be quite helpful; however, I certainly don’t agree with everything that he says, and I take his words with a grain of salt (as you should with mine). He’s very successful at what he does, so he’s obviously doing something “right” even if I don’t fully agree with what it is.
All of that is to say, if you don’t want your workflow backed up for months because you have so many exposures to edit, and you’d rather spend your time doing something else—including capturing more photographs—then SOOC JPEGs might just be the thing for you. If you don’t own a Fujifilm camera, consider picking one up. Download the Fuji X Weekly App. Select a few Film Simulation Recipes to try. Let your RAW editor subscription expire.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Fujifilm X-E4 in black: Amazon B&H Moment
Fujifilm X-E4 in silver: Amazon B&H Moment