The Fujifilm X-Series Buyers Guide — Which Camera is for You

A common question I get is, “Which Fujifilm X-series camera should I buy?” With so many options, it can be difficult to figure out which one is right for you. Some models are quite alike, with overlapping features and similar price points, which can be confusing—especially if you’re new to the system. Each camera in Fujifilm’s lineup has its own role to play, and understanding that role makes it much easier to choose the right one for you. To help you out, I’ll break down each X-series camera below and explain its purpose in the lineup—what it’s best at, who it’s for, and why Fujifilm made it. With that foundation, you’ll be better equipped to make your decision.

Fujifilm X-H2s

The Fujifilm X-H2s is Fujifilm’s most premium X-series camera—the flagship model. It’s designed for speed, which makes it the most ideal option for videography, as well as sports and wildlife photography. It’s the only X-series camera—and only APS-C camera—with a stacked sensor, which allows it to be faster than other models. Interestingly, a large majority of the official Fujifilm videos (found on their various YouTube channels) are filmed on this camera—if you want to know what you can do with it cinematically, there are tons and tons of excellent examples online. Because the X-H2s is the top-of-the-line option, it is also the most expensive at $2,799 (after the recent price increase across the Fujifilm lineup).

A couple of possible downsides to the X-H2s are that it’s the largest (along with the X-H2, which shares the same body), which might make it less ideal for travel or walk-around photography, and it doesn’t have the traditional tactile exposure controls that Fujifilm is known for. This is a PASM model that’s specifically intended to be appealing to those coming from Canikony brand cameras, who might not appreciate Fujifilm’s retro-styled bodies. It’s weather sealed and has two card slots (one for CFexpress Type B). The rear LCD screen is vari-angle, and can twist many directions. I find it fascinating that camera reviewers often compare the X-H2s to full-frame models; those are somewhat unfair apples-to-oranges comparisons, but you see it often, which just goes to show that this camera punches above its weight class.

If you really need speed, the Fujifilm X-H2s is your best bet. It’s the top X-series option for video, sports, and wildlife. This is the most “pro” camera in the lineup, if that’s important to you. I have never used this camera personally.

Fujifilm X-H2

The Fujifilm X-H2 is nearly identical to the X-H2s. The main difference is that, instead of a 26mp stacked X-Trans V sensor intended for speed, it has a 40mp non-stacked X-Trans V sensor intended for resolution. It’s not quite as quick as the “s” version, so it’s not as ideal for video, sports and wildlife; however, it’s still snappy, and still excellent for those situations—it’s a great hybrid camera. You simply trade a little speed for megapixels, while saving $600. You get basically the same camera for significantly less money. If you need the fastest X-series model, the “s” version is the one to get; if not, the X-H2 is quite compelling, especially if you are moving over from one of the “big three” brands. I have not used the X-H2 personally.

Fujifilm X-Pro5

There is not currently an X-Pro5. The last camera in this series was the X-Pro3, released in 2019 and discontinued in 2022. A successor is overdue, and likely to come next year (my prediction is in the spring, but that’s merely a guess). Nothing is known about the camera (not even the name… “X-Pro5” is speculation); however, it probably won’t be too dissimilar from other X-Pro models. The X-Pro series offers classic rangefinder styling, a hybrid EVF/OVF, and durability (other than the rear LCD cable on the X-Pro3… that’s another story, and probably why that camera was discontinued). X-Pro is top-of-the-line out of all the retro-styled X-series models. These cameras are beloved, they’re classics—the Leica of Fujifilm, so to speak. There’s not much to say about it at this time other than it’s coming someday, and it will likely be over $2,000 (maybe well over) when it does come. I wouldn’t be surprised if Fujifilm kicked off the sixth generation with this camera. Whenever it is released, you’ll know, because it will definitely make headlines. The picture above is of an X-Pro1.

Fujifilm X100VI

The X100 series is legendary. It’s probably the most iconic Fujifilm line, with a beautiful retro rangefinder design, including a hybrid OVF/EVF. Pairing the 40MP X-Trans V sensor with a fixed 23mm (35mm full-frame equivalent) f/2 lens, the X100VI is perfect for street, travel, and documentary photography. This iteration is the first in the series to have IBIS. The leaf shutter, built-in flash, and built-in ND filter are three especially great but often overlooked features. The X100VI is compact and discreet, yet eye catching—no wonder it is the most viral camera of all time!

Because you cannot change the lens, this camera is not for everyone; however, it can inspire you to see differently because you’re limited to one focal length, which can force you to think more creatively. The Fujifilm X100VI is my “desert island” camera—if I could only have one model for the rest of my life, it would be this one. With that said, I find that the X100-series tends to pair really well with an interchangeable-lens model, for when the 35mm-equivalent focal length just isn’t the right choice. The X100VI isn’t a point-and-shoot; it’s a premium compact, which is reflected by the $1,799 MSRP (after the recent price increase).

Fujifilm X-T5

If there’s one quintessential interchangeable-lens Fujifilm camera, it’s probably the X-T5. It closely embodies Fujifilm’s retro styling and tactile controls, while packing in their latest 40mp X-Trans V sensor and processor. You get IBIS, a three-way tilting LCD, dual card slots, and weather sealing—all in a body that still feels compact. It’s basically an X-H2, but smaller, lighter, better-looking, and cheaper. This is a premium stills-centric model, yet it’s no slouch when it comes to video capabilities. A lot of comparisons have been made to the Nikon Zf, which is a full-frame camera (not necessarily a fair equivalence), yet the X-T5 holds its own pretty well, (again) punching above its weight class.

The X-T5 is a workhorse that can do a bit of everything. It seems well suited for landscapes, portraits, travel, etc., etc.. I used this camera extensively for about a year-and-a-half, then my wife, Amanda, used it for a year (mostly portraits, theater, and video), and now I have it back, and am enjoying photographing with it again. As a stills-centric yet good-for-everything camera, it’s easy to recommend. With an MSRP of $1,899, it’s under 2K but definitely not cheap.

Fujifilm X-T50

The Fujifilm X-T50 is the little brother of the X-T5. It has the same sensor, processor, and IBIS—it’s basically the same internally as the X-T5 and even the X-H2—but lacks weather sealing and dual card slots. It’s smaller and lighter, with a little more plastic. This was the first camera with a Film Dial, which adds a bit of aesthetic versatility, and is great for exploring which Film Simulations you might like best. This is Fujifilm’s mid-range retro SLR-styled camera, but is just as capable as the higher-end X-T5.

Because this camera is smaller and lighter, it’s a little better for travel or walk-around photography. The X-T50 is a bit more beginner or enthusiast orientated than the X-T5, but you can grow with it, since it’s just as capable as the higher end model. At $1,699, it’s only a little cheaper than the X-T5. If size and weight are a priority, that might be a reason to choose this camera, or if you want a slightly less complicated camera; otherwise, the X-T5 is the better option. I really like the X-T50 personally, particularly because of the Film Dial.

Fujifilm X-E5

The Fujifilm X-E5 is the newest X-series camera. It’s basically an X-T50, but in an X100VI-like body. It’s as close as you’re going to get to an interchangeable-lens X100VI, especially when paired with pancake lenses. It’s Fujifilm’s smallest camera with an EVF, which makes it especially great for travel photography, or just everyday carry. It’s also the only model where you can program up to 11 Recipes into it. The X-E5 is the most premium camera in the X-E series, and is solidly mid-tier, with improved build quality over its predecessor. I have no doubt that this will be a big hit, even with the $1,699 price tag. If you like retro rangefinder styling, this is the interchangeable-lens camera to buy.

Fujifilm X-S20

The Fujifilm X-S20 is the little brother of the X-H2s. It’s a hybrid model that’s especially good for video, but is no slouch for stills. It uses the “old” 26mp X-Trans IV sensor paired with the new X Processor 5. It is not weather sealed and has only one card slot. It’s not necessarily retro styled, and lacks the traditional tactile dials found on most Fujifilm models; instead, it has PASM controls similar to the X-H2s and X-H2, and it has an articulating rear LCD screen. It’s intended to be appealing to those coming from Canikony brand cameras. It only has C1-C4 and not C1-C7 like many other Fujifilm cameras, for those who use Film Simulation Recipes. There are two X-S20’s in my house: one belongs to my wife, Amanda, and the other belongs to my son, Jonathan. They both really love it—in fact, my wife chose the X-S20 over the X-T5. At $1,599, this is a mid-tier camera, but it is slightly more affordable than the X-T50 and X-E5.

Fujifilm X-T30 II / X-T30 III

The current entry-level X-series camera with an EVF and retro tactile controls is the Fujifilm X-T30 II. It has the 26mp X-Trans IV sensor and X Processor 4; however, it was the very last fourth-generation model, so it does have some options that the earlier 4th-gen cameras lack, making it seem a bit less dated. At $999, it is definitely more affordable than the options above, making it a compelling choice, and probably the best overall value right now—a great beginners camera. It doesn’t have IBIS, and may not be the best option for video—although, with a gimbal or tripod, it’s certainly capable of recording quality clips.

The X-T50 was not this camera’s successor, but a whole new highly similar line that is a bit more premium. Fujifilm is about to replace the X-T30 II with (what will likely be called) the X-T30 III. Because of this, the X-T30 II can be a bit tough to find in-stock, as I believe Fujifilm has stopped production of it. If you want the best affordable Fujifilm camera, be sure to buy an X-T30 II—that is, if you can find one. Fujifilm is expected to announce the X-T30 III later this year, likely in the fall. I anticipate it being nearly identical to the X-T30 II, just with the new X Processor 5, possibly with a Film Dial like the X-T50, and perhaps a couple hundred dollars more expensive. In all likelihood, the X-T30 III will be the last fifth-generation X-series camera.

Fujifilm X-M5

The Fujifilm X-M5 is the bargain basement entry-level X-series camera, with an MSRP of $899. It has a striking rangefinder-like retro design, but lacks traditional tactile controls (it has PASM instead) and lacks an EVF. It’s the smallest and lightest interchangeable-lens model in the lineup. Like the X-S20, it pairs the 26mp X-Trans IV sensor with the X Processor 5. It’s touted as a hybrid camera that’s excellent for video, but it lacks IBIS. In a sense, X-M5 is the little brother of the X-S20, and in a sense it’s the X-E5’s smaller sibling. If you have a tight budget or if you prioritize size and weight, this camera might be for you. Between this and the X-T30 II, if you are primarily a videographer, the X-M5 is your best bet, but if you are primarily a stills photographer, I recommend the X-T30 II. It seems like a good option as your very first camera, or else as a second camera for when your larger model isn’t ideal. I’ve never used the X-M5 personally.

Fujifilm X half

Last and maybe least is the Fujifilm X half. This is technically an X-series camera, but it’s not X-Trans, and isn’t APS-C, either. It has a 1″ Bayer sensor orientated vertically, with a fixed 32mm-equivalent f/2.8 lens. It’s essentially a digital version of half-frame cameras, like the Fujica Half, Olympus Pen, Kodak H35N, and Pentax 17. The X half has as much in common with the Instax Evo line as it does the X-series, and bridges a gap between the two systems, with a foot in both camps. It’s a heck-of-a-lot of fun, but definitely less serious than all of the options above. This could be a toy for the photographer who has everything, or a casual camera for events and vacations, or a first camera for your child that shows an interest in photography. You’re unlikely to capture portfolio-worthy pictures with the X half, but for social media or scrapbooks, this camera is quite excellent. Both my wife and I enjoy using it (and have fought over it), but neither of us would chose it as our primary model. At $850, it’s a bit expensive for what it is.

Conclusion

If you’re still unsure which Fujifilm cameras are right for you, let me break it down even more simply. If you are coming from one of the big three camera companies and want the easiest transition, you’re going to look at the X-H2s, X-H2, and X-S20. If you are primarily a videographer, you’ll want to consider those same three cameras, and I’ll throw in the X-M5 if you are on a tight budget. If you simply want the best-of-the-best, the X-H2s, X-H2, and X-T5 are your top options (and the next X-Pro, whenever that comes out). If you are primarily a stills photographer, the X-T5 is top-of-the-line (the next X-Pro will be, as well), the X-T50 and X-E5 are nearly as good (and smaller), and the X-T30 II is the best bargain. The best looking cameras are the next X-Pro (assuming that Fujifilm doesn’t change much), X100VI, and X-E5. If you don’t want to invest in a whole system, and just want to dip your toes into the Fujifilm world, the X100VI is what you should buy. If you don’t have a lot of money to spend, the X-T30 II and X-M5 are the two cameras you need to consider. If you have large hands and/or plan to use long lenses, the X-H2s, X-H2, and X-S20 have the best ergonomics, and I’ll throw in the X-T5 as a bonus. If you want small and lightweight, look at the X-M5, X-E5, X100VI, and (of course) the X half. If you want the most enjoyable, the X half, X100VI, X-E5, and the next X-Pro are the ones to consider. I’m sure I’m missing some situations, but I hope this provides clarity for some of you who are trying to decide which camera to purchase, and are just unsure.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-H2:
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Fujifilm X-H2s:
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Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
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Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
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Fujifilm X-T50 in black:
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Fujifilm X-T50 in silver:
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Fujifilm X-T50 in charcoal:
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Fujifilm X100VI in black:
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Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
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Fujifilm X-S20:
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Fujifilm X-E5 in black:
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Fujifilm X-E5 in silver:
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Fujifilm X-T30 II in black:
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Fujifilm X-T30 II in silver:
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Fujifilm X-M5 in black:
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Fujifilm X-M5 in silver:
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Fujifilm X half in black:
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Fujifilm X half in silver:
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Fujifilm X half in charcoal:
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Fujifilm Autofocus — An Uncomfortable Conversation We Need to Have

Skates & Hoop – Tempe, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Astia Azure Recipe

In this article we’re going to discuss Fujifilm’s X-series Autofocus, which is a hot topic right now. A lot of things are being said about it on YouTube and social media and especially in the comments section of photography websites. I’m a little afraid to give my two cents, because I know it will not be well received by some of you reading this. I think most regular visitors of this website will not have any qualms about it, but no doubt this will be shared on Reddit or DPReview or a Facebook group or someplace like that, and I will receive some aggressive disagreements by some of those folks.

I cannot tell you how many times I’ve seen people online call Fujifilm’s Autofocus “garbage” or “bad” or some other negative term. Every once in awhile a person will comment on Fuji X Weekly with a similar sentiment; however, it’s vocalized a lot less here than elsewhere, it seems. This is a controversy that I’ve tried to steer clear of—people have strong opinions about this topic, and my opinions are different than many. I did write about it two months ago, but I think it needs to be addressed again.

As I’ve pondered this topic, I think there are a number of issues that are often lumped together, but need to be discussed individually. They are related in that it affects Autofocus, but otherwise they are unrelated, and lumping them together doesn’t help bring about any solutions. We’ll get to it all, but it will take some time to navigate through it. Be patient, as this will be a journey.

First and foremost, I believe that much of the negativity is a type of hysteria. Someone points out a “problem” and now everyone (it seems) is experiencing it. Echo chambers and groupthink on the internet can make people especially susceptible to this. I’m not a psychologist and offer no professional medical advice, but I did listen to a podcast recently on a flight that made me consider this as a strong possibility.

Thunderbird & Canopies – Glendale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – PRO Negative 160C Recipe

The podcast was Cautionary Tales with Tim Harford and the episode was entitled Sonic Poison? The Genesis of Havana Syndrome. It explains how hysteria can have a real affect on people, such as causing nuns to meow, or children to experience sickness that they don’t really have, or millions of dollars of perfectly good Coca-Cola dumped down the drain for no good reason, or spies “poisoned” by loud cicadas in Cuba. While these things were in their heads, they manifested in real physical ways.

What clued me in to the potential that this phenomena might also be happening to those who own Fujifilm cameras is when someone told me that they were really upset at Fujifilm because their Autofocus was not working as it should be and that Fujifilm needed to fix the problem right now; this person admitted that they had never experienced the issue personally, but they knew it was a problem because they had seen it in a YouTube video. Later, another person stated to me something very similar: while the “problem” had had no affect on their photography, they were aware of its existence because they had seen it on the internet—and they were demanding that Fujifilm fix it ASAP or else they would quit the brand.

I’m not suggesting that Fujifilm’s Autofocus woes are “all in your head” and that it is just psychological, but I do believe it explains a good deal of it. I think if some certain YouTube videos had never been published (and it’s fine that they were, I’m not condemning them, I’m just observing), there would not be nearly so much discussion and outrage right now. A lot of people “became aware” of a problem that they likely would not have noticed on their own otherwise, and it wouldn’t have affected them in any real way (in other words, it wouldn’t have been an issue at all). When you spend a lot of money on something, and especially if your livelihood (or hopes of a future livelihood) depends on that thing, and you believe that it is not working right, it’s easy to understand why there would be some hysteria. Nuns meowing, Coke getting dumped, and Fujifilm’s “sucky” Autofocus are related, if you ask me, and it’s something that we can all be susceptible to. But, again, I’m not a psychologist and offer no professional advice on this.

While I believe a significant amount of the outrage can be attributed to that hysteria, there are real issues that should be discussed rationally. Something that I find interesting is that for the first five or six years of this blog, Fujifilm’s Autofocus was not a big issue whatsoever. It wasn’t a hot topic. What changed? I think it was Fujifilm’s enticement of Canikony brand photographers. I think many of the complaints are by people who used to shoot Canikony brand cameras—particularly Canon and Sony—and when they switched to Fujifilm over the last couple of years, they were disappointed by Fujifilm’s Autofocus system. It’s not as good as those found on Canikony models, especially Canon and Sony.

Hit – South Weber, UT – Fujifilm X-T30 – Fujichrome Sensia 100 Recipe

There are three reasons why Canikony cameras have better Autofocus than Fujifilm. First, they’ve been doing it for much longer. Sony (through Konica and Minolta) have been making Autofocus cameras since the 1970’s, and had what was considered the first “good” AF system (not good compared to what we have today, but good for back then) with the Minolta Maxxum in the mid-1980’s; Canon and Nikon both introduced their first Autofocus cameras in the 1980’s. Second, Canikony brands have had significantly more R&D money to invest in their Autofocus systems. Finally, as PetaPixel pointed out, the Canikony brands over the last handful of years have spent very little effort on image quality improvements, while placing much of their efforts on Autofocus improvements, and in some specific cases, actually to the detriment of image quality (a path that I do not want Fujifilm to pursue, personally). Most of the Canikony cameras that Fujifilm models are often compared to are also significantly more expensive, and usually larger and heavier.

Anyone who expects Fujifilm’s Autofocus to be at the same level as the Canikony brands have not put much thought into it. Still, it’s surprising to me, considering the disadvantages that Fujifilm has faced, that they’re not very far behind, either. Fujifilm’s Autofocus is by far more than good enough for most people and situations, including for the many professional photographers who use these cameras each day even under difficult circumstances. In preparation for this article, I reached out to five highly talented and successful photographers/videographers who use Fujifilm—people I met in person this year while traveling across America—and asked if they find Fujifilm’s Autofocus “lacking” or “detrimental” to their work. All five answered no; one added a caveat that for a specific use-case this person prefers their Sony model—they could do it with their Fujifilm, but it’s a little easier on their Sony, so for that particular situation this person doesn’t use Fujifilm.

Photography has been around for a very long time. It didn’t begin two, five, or ten years ago. People have been capturing amazing photographs for well over 100 years. If you were to grab a Fujifilm X-T5, jump into a DeLorean, and travel back in time just 20 years, you’d blow away the photographers of that era with what would seem like to them impossible camera technology. Yet the photographs captured today are no more impressive than than they were then. Camera gear has advanced tremendously over the last two decades, but the great photographs from today are no more great than they were 30, 40, 50, etc., etc., years ago. I love finding vintage photography magazines and admiring the incredible photographs captured on significantly inferior gear than what we have readily available today—we’re so spoiled!

In other words, if they could do it on their lesser gear, you can do it on your greater gear. No excuses. Fujifilm’s Autofocus is really good, especially compared to what existed over the last handful of decades. No, not quite as good as the Canikony brands are right now, but really good nonetheless. The negativity just never made sense to me. It’s like complaining that a Corvette isn’t a Maserati, and calling the Corvette garbage because it isn’t more like a Maserati. If you want a Maserati, buy a Maserati! Otherwise, appreciate that you have a Corvette.

Midair – Los Angeles, CA – Fujifilm X100VI – Appalachian Negative Recipe

Many years ago I was given this advice: Either you are controlling your camera, or your camera is controlling you. I think that a lot of people allow their cameras to control them, which might typically work out fine because the current tech is so advanced, but, when it doesn’t work out, it’s an easy scapegoat to blame the gear instead of looking inward. Without self reflection, you are robbing yourself of the opportunity to learn and grow. Your gear is only a limitation if you allow it to be, and if you don’t allow it, then it’s no issue whatsoever. That might require learning some new skills or sharpening some skills that you already have but could be improved upon.

A lot of people don’t like that advice, but it is completely true. You have it within you to not allow any limitations on any gear get in the way of creating whatever it is that you want to create. The difference between those that are having a ton of success with their Fujifilm gear and those complaining about it saying they can’t is the person holding the camera, and not the camera itself. I get it: it’s much easier to blame the gear. But, if you blame the gear instead of yourself, your camera is controlling you, and you will not improve—that success will be elusive.

All that I just said is the most important part of this article. You might disagree, and that’s ok. Sometimes the truth hurts. It might be a bitter pill that you were not ready to swallow. I didn’t say anything that’s not true; perhaps it is deserving of a second read-through, and with an open mind. With all that said, there are some other things that are important to address.

I think a good deal of the negative attention regarding Fujifilm’s Autofocus issues came after Fujifilm released a firmware update earlier this year with an Autofocus bug. I didn’t experience the issue caused by that firmware personally because I always wait awhile to update the firmware. This is a good idea regardless of camera brand. Sometimes there are bugs, and sometimes the bugs are significant. If you wait a week or two, if there is some major bug, it should be well known by then—if so, just skip that firmware and wait for the next one. Fujifilm did fix that Autofocus bug; however, to a much smaller degree there is still some AF problem that seems to only affect certain use cases. It’s my understanding that Fujifilm is aware of it and working on a solution. It will get resolved, just give it a little time.

Horses on Allen Street – Tombstone, AZ – Fujifilm X-T5 – Nostalgic Americana Recipe

As Fujifilm has grown, I think one department that may not have upscaled enough is the one that is in charge of firmware. Perhaps Fujifilm needs to add a couple more to the team, or maybe they have already and are experiencing some growing pains as new folks are brought in (or combination of the two). From my perspective, it just seems that this team is stretched a little too thin and needs more resources to allow them to keep up. My advice to Fujifilm is simply to invest more in the team that is in charge of firmware, as I’m certain it will pay off in the long run. A lot of negative attention today could have been avoided had this team been given all of the necessary resources a couple years back.

The remaining Autofocus woes are related to hardware and settings. It could be that you are not using the best lenses, or don’t have your camera settings programmed optimally.

Fujifilm’s older lenses are slower. The newer options with a Linear Motor (designated with “LM” in the lens name) are often the fastest. The larger and heavier the glass elements, the slower the AF will likely be. In other words, there’s a pretty significant performance difference depending on the lens that you have on your camera. Use the right lenses and you’ll have more success; however, for most people and circumstances, all of the lenses are plenty good enough—this is more for those who demand peak performance for their situation. Also, ensure that the lens firmware is up-to-date, not just the camera—this might resolve it for you, so it is worth looking into.

Fujifilm cameras have a lot of customizable fine-tuning options for Autofocus (especially on the newer models); if those settings are optimized for your situation, you will have much success, but if not, you may have more “misses” than you’d like. There are resources online that can help you find the right AF settings for you—it’s a very individual type of thing, so what works for one person may not for another; I recommend that you look for advice from multiple sources, and experiment—try different settings and see what happens. Also, I have found that several complaints were resolved with one specific thing: Release/Focus Priority should be set to Focus and not Release. I have a feeling that this one setting is the root of many people’s AF woes.

Political Skateboarder – Nashville, TN – Fujifilm X-T50 – Kodak Film Recipes

In my opinion, Fujifilm’s Autofocus problems have been significantly overblown—Mount Everest has been made out of an ant hill. The internet has spread hysteria. Some people have unrealistic expectations. For others its user-error, and could be resolved with a little effort. Blaming the camera is easy to do, but it stifles your growth. Control your camera, don’t let it control you. Many people have the same exact gear as you do and they do not experience your issues. It’s not the camera—it has never been the camera, and it never will be the camera. Your gear is much more than capable. As Ansel Adams stated, “The single most important component of a camera is the twelve inches behind it.” You have it within you to not allow it to adversely affect you, but it might require some practice or learning new skills. That’s not a message that people usually want to hear, but it’s one that needs to be said. If you require optimized peak Autofocus performance, make sure that you are using the right lenses and have the best settings selected for your situation. For Fujifilm: provide more resources to the firmware team so that they can ensure they are not producing buggy updates (by the way, this is not an issue unique to Fujifilm by any stretch).

Please keep your comments civil. I know that chronic complainers, haters, and trolls will come out of the woodworks when an article like this is published. Unlike most websites, I don’t put up with that here. If you disagree, please be kind in your disagreement. I feel like this article needs to be published to counteract all the negativity that is much too prevalent across the internet. My hope is that—if you have experienced issues with Fujifilm’s Autofocus—you’ll be encouraged to create amazing content with the gear you own, because your camera is, in fact, more than capable just so long as the one using it is also capable (and you can be!). Excuses get in the way, but you don’t have to let them. That’s the message of this article.

Fujifilm’s 7 Best Cameras

I get asked occasionally which Fujifilm cameras are the very best. Sometimes people want to jump into the Fujifilm system, but are unaware of which camera to buy; however, they know that they want the “best” model, whichever one that is. Of course, best is highly subjective—what is “best” for one person may not be for another. My list might look a lot different from another’s. This is simply my opinion as a long-time experienced Fujifilm photographer, so take it for what it’s worth, which might only be two pennies.

My list of Fujifilm’s seven best cameras is limited to X-series models. I’m not including GFX, Instax, Fujica, or anything else. I’m only discussing the APS-C line that Fujifilm introduced with the fixed-lens X100 in 2011, and the interchangeable-lens X-Pro1 in 2012. Those cameras and the ones introduced afterwards are the models being considered for this list.

Without any further delay, let’s get started!

#7: Fujifilm X70

The Fujifilm X70 is a fixed-lens X-Trans II camera that was released in 2016. It had a short sales-life because Sony suddenly discontinued production of the 16mp APS-C sensor that the camera used, and by the end of that year the X70 was discontinued, and out-of-stock shortly thereafter. As a compact camera with an 18.5mm (28mm full-frame-equivalent) lens, it competed directly with the Ricoh GR II. I like the X70 better than the GR II because it has the traditional tactile controls that Fujifilm is known for, while the GR cameras utilize PASM.

Today, at eight-years-old, the camera often sells for more than when it was brand-new. It’s much beloved by many who own one. Some proclaim it to be their favorite Fujifilm camera of all time. Compared to the latest models, the X70 is less advanced and with fewer options, but it does what few Fujifilm cameras can: fit into your pocket. In my opinion, it’s the best carry-everywhere camera ever made by Fujifilm. A successor—an X80—should be a high priority for Fuji.

#6: Fujifilm X-Pro2

While all three of the X-Pro cameras are great, there’s something especially special about the Fujifilm X-Pro2. It’s the seemingly perfect balance of form and function. It’s one of those cameras that will be desired and used for many years to come. While other digital cameras of its era will be long forgotten, I’m convinced that the X-Pro2 will still be sought out even when it’s 20 years old or older.

Introduced at the same time as the X70, the Fujifilm X-Pro2 is an X-Trans III model, and as such it doesn’t seem quite as dated as the X70. It still holds up fairly well in ability and features compared to the latest models. I would be perfectly happy if it were my only camera; unfortunately, I let it get away from me twice.

#5: Fujifilm X-E4

The X-E4 is the smallest and most minimalistic of Fujifilm’s modern offerings. While it is not perfect (no camera is), it does offer a slightly unique experience for Fujifilm that some like and some don’t. Personally, I appreciate the camera—it is one of my favorite Fujifilm models—and I find it especially great for travel or just everyday walk-around photography, thanks to its compactness. I have more expensive cameras, but often choose the X-E4 instead.

While the Fujifilm X-E4 doesn’t have IBIS or 40mp or the newest couple of film simulations, it is one of the last X-Trans IV models, and as such is quite advanced and capable. Unfortunately, Fujifilm greatly underestimated the demand for the X-E4, and failed to secure enough parts to manufacture as many copies as they should have, inexplicably discontinuing it when there were lengthy backorder lists. Because of that, right now the X-E4 sells for several hundred dollars more used than when it was brand-new.

#4: Fujifilm X100V

The X100 is where the X-series began; the X100V is the model that unexpectedly wen’t viral when it was over two years old. This list could be filled with X100 cameras—in fact, I debated if the X100F should have been placed in the #6 or #7 positions (it was a tough cut). The X100V is the fifth iteration—the X-Trans IV version—and served as my “desert island” camera until the introduction of the X100VI earlier this year.

I love the X100V because it is small and lightweight, and has great features like a built-in ND filter and leaf shutter plus a fill-flash that just seems to work perfect. For a fixed-lens camera, it is surprisingly versatile. I don’t travel without an X100 model. It’s no wonder why the X100V was the camera to have in 2023 (although few could get it); in 2024, it’s still an excellent choice. And it might be easier to find than an X100VI.

#3: Fujifilm X-T5

The X-T5 is Fujifilm’s flagship SLR-styled traditional tactile control model. If you want the best, look no further—it’s the cream of the crop: IBIS, 40mp, weather-sealing, dual SD-card slots, etc., etc.. The X-T5 is notably smaller and lighter than the X-T4. It’s such a great camera, there’s not much negative that can be said about it. This camera could very easily be #1 on this list, and on paper it should be.

While the Fujifilm X-T5 is technically a great camera, and it did slim down compared to its predecessor, it’s more camera than I need much of the time. Because of this, I will often choose a different model, including technically inferior options like the X-E4. Sometimes data sheets and spec charts don’t tell the full story. You don’t always need a fully loaded Land Cruiser, sometimes a Camry will get you there more efficiently; still, sometimes you need the Land Cruiser.

#2: Fujifilm X-T50

The X-T50 is an X-T5, but without weather-sealing, with only one SD-card slot, with a Film Dial instead of an ISO Dial, a lower resolution-EVF, the old battery, in a smaller and lighter body, and a little cheaper. Technically speaking, the X-T5 is superior, but, over the summer, I used an X-T50 far more than an X-T5. Between the two, most of the time I chose the X-T50.

The X-T30 II is in the same series as the X-T50; however, Fujifilm says that the X-T50 is not the X-T30 II’s successor. The X-T50 is closely related and similar, but is not the X-T30 II’s replacement, as they are currently manufacturing both models. The X-T30 II is a better value (and I almost placed it at #7); overall, the X-T50 is the better camera of the two. For those wanting to get into the Fujifilm system, the X-T50 is my top recommendation, but the X-T30 II isn’t far behind.

#1: Fujifilm X100VI

I love the Fujifilm X100V, and the X100VI is even better! It is my “desert island” camera, which is to say that if I could choose only one model to use for the rest of my life, it would be this one. It is my absolute favorite photography tool, and it gets a lot of use. In my opinion, this is Fujifilm’s best camera.

The Fujifilm X100VI is by far the most preordered camera by any brand in history. We’re over six months since it was announced, and some people who preordered on Day 1 are still waiting for their camera to arrive, and some have been told that it might be closer to Christmas. There were more preorders for the X100VI than there were X100V’s manufactured over its four-year production life. Fujifilm is assembling far more X100VI’s each month than they did the X100V, yet they still can’t even make enough to fulfill the orders that were placed back in February. This is the most viral camera ever, and if the hype continues (and it might), the X100VI could potentially end up as the most-sold model of all time by any brand. If you didn’t order one right away when it was announced, you may have to wait a long time to get one.

Some of you may have noticed that both the X-H2 and X-H2s, which are Fujifilm’s top-tier flagship models, did not make this list. Nor did the very capable X-S20. The reason is very simple: those are PASM models, and I don’t care much for PASM, personally. Those cameras are intended to give the most Canikony-like experience of any Fujifilm models; if you are coming from a Canikony brand, those models are going to feel more familiar to you. I never appreciated the (modern) Canikony approach, so I’m very much drawn to the traditional tactile controls that Fujifilm is known for. Fujifilm offers a unique experience in the camera world, which is one of the big reasons why I love Fujifilm, and that unique experience is found on each of the seven models in my list. While some might see it as merely “retro” (which it is), to me its preferable. It’s better—much better, in fact. You may or may not agree with that, and that’s fine—different strokes for different folks—I’m just explaining why those particular models didn’t crack my list.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-T50 in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T50 in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T50 in charcoal:
AmazonB&HMomentWex
Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira

See also:
Fujifilm Film Simulation Recipes
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to Program Into Your Fujifilm Camera First

A Controversy Undone

The Camera Bar – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T50 – Pacific Blues Recipe

Panasonic inadvertently created a controversy (actually, two). You’re probably aware of it already, but for those who aren’t, let me briefly explain it to you. Afterwards, I’ll tie it back into Fujifilm and Fuji X Weekly, and by the end it will all make sense why I’m bringing it up on this blog.

It began when Gerald Undone, a popular YouTuber, posted a video lamenting that Panasonic didn’t invite him to the launch event of the Lumix S9, nor did they send him a preproduction model prior to release. Gerald comes across as unnecessarily bothered for the exclusion; however, he goes on to make some extremely valid points that shouldn’t be dismissed. If you haven’t seen the video, I’d rather you watch it and form your own opinions than to read my commentary on it, so I’ll leave it at that.

What is important to note, though, is that—in Gerald’s view—Panasonic punished him for being critical of one of their products (or, really, using the “wrong” word), and they told him they were excluding him from the S9 launch because they were concerned he wouldn’t like the camera. In his opinion, Panasonic’s content-creator inclusion for the event was largely based on who they felt would tow the company’s line, which casts skepticism (fairly or unfairly) across the viewpoints of those who were invited. Again, you can watch the video and form your own opinions, I’m just trying to lay out the controversy for those who are unaware.

Bus Ride with Tom Baumgaertel – New York – Fujifilm X100VI – Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe

Afterwards, people noticed that the camera reviews by those who attended the launch event and/or who had received a preproduction model of the Lumix S9 were largely very positive despite the technical specs and features being surprisingly mediocre. There was an obvious disconnect between the initial reviews and the perception of those who had read the fine details. Did that prove Gerald right?

Important to the controversy is that the Lumix S9, aside from one important aspect, is probably the least interesting full-frame camera released in the last decade (this is my opinion, it’s ok to disagree). Some reviewers—I’m sure at the recommendation of Panasonic—suggested that the S9 is comparable to the Fujifilm X100VI; basically, the S9 is a full-frame interchangeable-lens X100VI alternative. However, the Fujifilm camera that the S9 is most similar to is the X-A5, and not the X100VI. The X-A5 has some advantages (mechanical shutter, hotshoe, grip, size/weight, price, lenses), and the S9 has some advantages (6K video, IBIS, larger dynamic range, better high-ISO, better autofocus); otherwise, those two models are surprisingly similar.

The “important aspect” of the Lumix S9, which is indeed noteworthy, is the ability to wirelessly transfer LUTs (think overlays or presets) from an app to the camera, and apply those to still pictures for straight-out-of-camera photography. Panasonic is trying to create a community around LUTs similar to the Recipe Community for Fujifilm. Interestingly, Panasonic’s slogan for the S9 is: “Shoot. Edit. Share.” It’s a mixed message, for whatever reason; however, Film Simulation Recipes have become so popular for Fujifilm that other brands are trying to figure out how to incorporate something similar, which should not be overlooked or under-appreciated.

Omar Gonzalez – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T50 – Superia Negative Recipe

Going back to the controversy, there have been a large number of people within the photography world who have commented on a perceived disconnect between what the Lumix S9 actually is and the hype that many YouTubers espoused who were flown to Japan for the launch. The solution suggested by some is to ignore the opinions of those who were given early-access to the S9, and especially to those who attended the launch. But is that fair?

I was recently loaned a preproduction Fujifilm X-T50. I wasn’t invited to the X-Summit launch event in Sydney, but I was flown to a secondary event in New York City. The X-T50 has a contentious design choice that I spoke (mostly) positively about. Do you see a parallel? Was I invited because Fujifilm thought I would hype the camera? Were my opinions influenced by Fujifilm’s generosity towards me? Can Fuji X Weekly still be trusted for unbiased opinions (or at least as unbiased as an unashamed fanboy can get)? I really had to ask myself these questions, and give this whole matter a lot of consideration.

When I arrived in New York, one of the first things I was asked by a Fujifilm representative is what I thought of the new Film Dial. I said that I was unsure about it at first, but once I figured out how to get the most out of it, I really liked it. The representative was surprised, because it was assumed that I wouldn’t like it, since it’s not necessarily designed for use with Recipes.

Bryan Minear Getting Soaked – Windham, NY – Fujifilm X-T5 – Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe

During the trip—and even before—it was stated several times by Fujifilm that what they wanted most was authenticity—those involved shouldn’t be concerned with what they may believe the company wants; Be true to who you are. I was also told that vulnerability is a virtue they appreciate. Looking back, my impression is that they wanted those in attendance to be at ease, and to not feel pressured to think or feel some certain way, or create some certain things. The point seemed to be more about establishing connections between creative people who happen to use Fujifilm products, and much less about the products themselves.

The question is whether or not I was influenced in some way by Fujifilm. I probably would not have picked up an X-T50 had Fujifilm not sent me one; had I not used it, I probably would not have spoken so positively towards it, because I wouldn’t have discovered how to effectively use it. That seems like an obvious one, to me. Maybe more subtly: I met some of the people behind the brand, and gained insights into some inner workings, which adjusted my perception about the company—essentially, some of my preconceived notions about Fujifilm had to be realigned to match reality. That’s a type of influence that I believe is actually positive. Did I come away thinking that if I speak negatively about the brand, I won’t be invited back? I’d be lying if I told you that it didn’t cross my mind, because it did; however, I don’t believe that is true.

This whole controversy has caused me to pause and self-reflect, and evaluate my own motives and actions. I want authenticity and vulnerability to be the gold standard of this website and myself, personally. I hope that I’m a trustworthy voice in the Fujifilm community—both now, and for years to come. I’m highly appreciative that Fujifilm reached out to me, loaned me a camera, and invited me to their event, and I look forward to any other potential opportunities to work with the brand in the future. If I have to leave my ethics at the door to do so, I’m not ok with that. Thankfully, I don’t believe Fujifilm would ask that of me, but it is important to not be complacent of the potential, and to hold onto my personal values tightly at all times.

My Fujifilm Camera Recommendations

Fujifilm X100VI

Recently, a lot of people have asked me which Fujifilm cameras do I recommend. Should they buy an X100VI? X-T5? X-H2? X-S20? You get the idea. This is an impossible question for me to answer because it is personal; what I might like in a camera you might dislike, as each person’s needs, experiences, and priorities are different. Still, I’ll try to give some thoughtful answers.

To make this even more challenging, some Fujifilm cameras are difficult to get. As the saying goes, a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. Should you patiently wait for the Fujifilm X100VI? Or should you get an X-T30 II or X-T5 instead? I cannot tell you what you should or shouldn’t do, I can only offer my opinions, which should be taken with a grain of salt.

I learned photography during the film era, and used full-manual cameras for many years. Because of this, PASM mode-dial cameras never made sense to me and were always an awkward experience. Fujifilm’s retro designs and tactile controls are like home to me. For this reason, I’m not personally a big fan of the Fujifilm’s models that trade those for mode dials, such as the X-S10, X-S20, X-H2, and X-H2s. This is not to say that those are bad cameras (because they’re not), only that they’re not for me—you might, in fact, love them very much.

This article is specifically about new cameras, and not models that have been discontinued and are now only available used. I might make a part two that covers used models; there are so many to choose from, that’s a different beast altogether. For the sake of simplicity, I’m just talking about what is currently available brand-new.

Now, let’s get to it!

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Best Overall: Fujifilm X-T5

Whether you are a photographer, videographer, or both, the Fujifilm X-T5 is the top allrounder. It’s Fujifilm’s most premium model with retro tactile controls. It has a 40mp X-Trans V sensor, IBIS, weather-sealing, dual-card slots—just excellent specs. There’s so much to love about this camera, but no camera is perfect; however, this is in my opinion the closest to perfect among the current interchangeable-lens options. I’ve been using mine for about a year-and-a-half now, and still really enjoying it.

Fujifilm X-T5 in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T5 in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira

Best Budget: Fujifilm X-T30 II

The Fujifilm X-T30 II is currently Fujifilm’s most entry-level model, but don’t be fooled: this camera is highly capable. It has a 26mp X-Trans IV sensor, which is my personal favorite Fujifilm sensor generation. It’s not as feature rich as other models—it doesn’t have IBIS, weather-sealing, or dual-card slots—but it is more than good enough for most people, especially if you plan to use it more for still photography than video. The X-T30 II can sometimes be difficult to find—it was purportedly discontinued at one point, but new copies seem to appear now and then. If you have less than $1,000 to spend, the X-T30 II is definitely your best bet.

Fujifilm X-T30 II in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X-T30 II in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira

Most Fun: Fujifilm X100VI

The Fujifilm X100VI is the camera that everyone wants but few can actually get. It’s the wildly successful successor to the X100V, which was also hard to find after it became a social-media sensation two-and-a-half years after it was initially released. The X100VI has a 40mp X-Trans V sensor, IBIS, and is (for the most part) weather-sealed. It has great stats; most importantly, it’s a lot of fun to use. The fixed lens, leaf shutter, built-in ND filter, and relatively compact size make it a joy to use. My wife gifted me an X100V for my birthday four years ago; just three weeks ago my X100VI arrived in the mail—these are my desert island cameras, and if I could only have one for the rest of my life, I’d be quite happy with either one of them. If you can get one, in my opinion it’s worth doing so; however, they’re definitely not for everyone, so only you can determine if you’ll appreciate it or not. Aside from that, the X100VI is not easy to get, and you might have to wait awhile for one to become available.

Fujifilm X100VI in black:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira
Fujifilm X100VI in silver:
AmazonB&HMomentWexNuzira

How to Get Into Fujifilm on a Small Budget

Since Fujifilm has discontinued what was their entry-level models (such as the X-T200 pictured above), it’s a little more expensive nowadays to get into the X system. If you are on a tight budget, your options are limited, but you still have some good cameras to choose from. Note: this article is based on current pricing as of the time of publication. Let’s dig into this!

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

If your budget is $1,000 and you want something brand-new:

Fujifilm X-T30 II + 15-45mmAmazonB&HMoment

That is your only option, but it is a good one; however, if you think outside the box, there’s another way to approach this:

Choose one of the cameras below:
Fujifilm X-T30 IIAmazonB&HMoment
Fujifilm X-S10AmazonB&HMoment
Add one of these lenses:
7Artisans 25mm f/1.8Amazon
Meike 25mm f/1.8Amazon
Meike 35mm f/1.7Amazon
Meike 35mm f/1.4Amazon
7Artisans 35mm f/1.4Amazon
TTArtisan 35mm f/1.4Amazon
TTArtisan 50mm f/2Amazon
Meike 50mm f/1.7Amazon

If your budget is under $1,000:

You’ll have to go the second-hand route. Some places to look are B&H’s used department, KEH, MPB, and eBay. I’m sure there are other websites, too. Some used camera models to consider are:

Fujifilm X-T30
Fujifilm X-T20
Fujifilm X-T3
Fujifilm X-T2
Fujifilm X-T1
Fujifilm X-H1
Fujifilm X-E3
Fujifilm X-E2/X-E2s
Fujifilm X-E1

Aside from the camera body, you’ll need a lens. A few to consider are:

TTArtisan 27mm f/2.8AmazonB&H
TTArtisan 35mm f/1.8AmazonB&H
Fujinon 35mm f/2AmazonB&HMoment

If you shop around, it’s possible to find a good deal, and even get a Fujifilm camera and lens for less than $400. Almost no matter your budget, there are options, but the less you have to spend, the more difficult it will be and the fewer choices you’ll have; however, don’t fret! Just keep an eye out for good deals, and with some patience you are bound to find something that you can afford. My introduction to Fujifilm, which was on a tight budget, was via a used X-E1. I know first-hand that it is possible.

See also:

Fujifilm Gear Reviews
Film Simulation Recipes

My Fujifilm X-E5 Wish List

What should a Fujifilm X-E5 look like? What features would I like it to have?

I’m not convinced that Fujifilm will ever make an X-E5, as they’ve indicated that they might not, but if they do, it’s likely that they will begin working on it soon, at least preliminarily. If Fujifilm does make an X-E5, I think spring 2025 is a likely timeframe for its release. Just to be clear, I have zero inside information, and can only speculate. Just in case Fujifilm does begin to work on an X-E5 soon, I thought it would be worthwhile to tell them what I’d like it to be like. Of course, there’s a pretty good chance that they’ll never read this—I don’t believe that Fuji X Weekly is on their list of websites to regularly visit—so this might be for nothing. Optimistically, let’s assume that Fujifilm will read this article, and maybe they’ll even take my ideas into consideration.

Before I get into it, I want to argue why Fujifilm should make an X-E5. I understand why they don’t want to: Fujifilm believes that the market segment that the X-E line is in is shrinking, and will soon be dried up. Fujifilm made a decision to pivot, focusing more on higher-end gear, and less on lower-end gear. While the X-E line has never been considered an “entry-level” product by users, as the tier below it disappeared, it became the default entry-level camera for Fujifilm, since it is the cheapest model. Historically, the X-E line has had somewhat sluggish sales, and often comes out at the tail end of a sensor generation. The X-E3, for example, could still be purchased brand-new at a discount just two years ago; however, the X-E4 sold surprisingly well during its short time, especially towards the end.

Pacific Poppies – Montaña de Oro SP, CA – Fujifilm X-E4 – Pacific Blues Recipe

Inexplicably, Fujifilm discontinued the X-E4 while demand was high—so high, it exceeding Fujifilm’s ability to manufacture them, which caused a backorder list that was months long. Because Fujifilm discontinued the X-E4 while demand was high but supply was low, used models are now selling for ridiculous prices. I’m sure Fujifilm had a good reason for axing the camera—GxAce would say that it was a casualty of the global chip shortage of the early ’20’s—but it left a pretty significant market void. I’m surprised that Fujifilm let it slip through their fingers, but I’m sure it was simply a case of limited resources, and making more X-E4 bodies was less of a priority than other things.

The reason why Fujifilm should make an X-E5 and not let the X-E line die is because there is market demand for it right now. Three years ago, you could buy an X-T30, X-E3, X-T200, or X-A7. If you had a smaller budget or wanted a compact body for travel, you had those four options. Now, there’s only two: the often-out-of-stock X-T30 II or the X-S10. The X-S series is kind of in a different category with a divergent design from most of Fujifilm’s past models; while Fujifilm has marketed the X-S20 as their ideal travel camera, it is a bit on the heavy side for that, plus is more expensive, and not really in the entry-level price range. Currently, for those wanting something under $1,000, or something that’s especially compact and lightweight, you don’t have much to choose from. This is by design, and mainly because the bottom-end market isn’t as big as it was five years ago.

If Fujifilm made an X-E5, there would be demand for it, but (as they say) time is of the essence. The longer Fujifilm dillydallies, the less excitement their might be. You have to strike while the iron is hot, and the iron is hot right now. Will it still be hot two years from now? I have no idea. The safer move would be to simply un-retire the X-E4 and manufacture more copies of it. I don’t think that will happen, so let’s focus on the X-E5.

Working – Salt Lake City, UT – Fujifilm X-E4 – Kodak Vision3 250D Recipe

My ideal X-E camera wouldn’t be all that much different from the X-E4. I love my Fujifilm X-E4, but I know not everyone was excited about it. Some say that it was a step backwards from the X-E3 because Fujifilm went minimalistic with it—a little too minimalistic. For the X-E5, a few simply changes and improvements would make it better. Some people will say that it must have IBIS, but that would make it bigger, heavier, and more expensive. Fujifilm would have to carefully consider if it would be worthwhile to do that. If they added IBIS plus weather-sealing, they could increase the cost and make the line more mid-tier. That’s one option, but that’s not what I would suggest, personally. I would only make a handful of changes to the X-E4, and engrave a 5 on the front instead of a 4. Here are my X-E5 suggestions:

  • Reinstate the M/C/S switch.
  • Put an ISO ring around the Shutter knob like the X100V has.
  • Reinstate a rear command dial.
  • Make the rear screen three-way-tilting like the X-T5.
  • Improve the OVF, perhaps a little bigger and higher resolution.
  • Use the current sensor with the new X-Trans V processor like the X-S20.
  • Add a small grip to the front similar to the X100V.
  • Consider using rounded strap eyelets instead of rectangular.

That’s it! Super simple. There’s no need to reinvent the wheel. That would be a really nice refresh that I think a lot of people would appreciate. That would keep the cost low and the camera small and lightweight.

Reflection of a Broken Door – Litchfield Park, AZ – Fujifilm X-E4 – Fujicolor 100 Gold Recipe

It would be really smart for Fujifilm to update the 18mm f/2 lens, which is long-overdue for a refresh, and introduce a new pancake option: perhaps a 23mm f/2.8 or 40mm f/2.8. They could offer a few different bundle options: the upcoming 16-50mm f/2.8-4.8, the updated 18mm f/2, a new pancake (whatever they decide to go with), the 27mm f/2.8, or all three pancake lenses. The X-E line just begs to be used with pancake lenses, which really illustrates the benefit of APS-C, but sadly Fujifilm only has two. I bet that three pancake lenses bundled with the X-E5 would be a popular option, especially if a few influencers were to demonstrate just how great that would be for a travel photography kit.

Which brings me to the marketing angle. What makes Fujifilm cameras great? What is the essence of shooting with the X series? Hint: it’s what makes the X100V so popular. In my opinion, Fujifilm has done a rather poor job of expressing this and particularly communicating why it should be desirable (maybe they don’t understand it themselves?). Largely, it has come from outside sources—TikTokers, Instagramers, YouTubers… heck, I’ll take a little credit for it myself—who have done Fujifilm’s marketing job for them. The X-E5 (as I suggest the camera should be) would be the quintessence of many aspects of this: cool-yet-functional vintage styling, great implementation of exposure-triangle controls, small and lightweight, and of course out-of-camera JPEGs that look great. Fujifilm needs to focus on that. They need to communicate why the X-E5 fulfills (in many ways) the essence of shooting with the X series, and why that essence is desirable for photographers. Yes, social media influencers and bloggers will do some of that for Fujifilm, and that’s great organic promotion, but Fujifilm themselves needs to do a much better job than they have in the past. If done right, the X-E5 could be a smashing success in spite of shrinking market segments.

Will Fujifilm make an X-E5? Maybe, maybe not. I’d lean towards no if I had to pick one over the other. Should they? Absolutely yes! It would be a real shame for Fujifilm to kill the line when there is so much demand for it. I love the X-E series—the X-E1 was my introduction to Fujifilm—and it deserves to continue. I hope that it does.

Why the Fujifilm X-T5 is Not my Favorite Camera (…and the X100V is)

Someone asked me for advice: should they sell their Fujifilm X100V (plus the wide and tele conversion lenses) and buy an X-T5 (plus some f/2 Fujinon lenses), or just keep the X100V? They really like the X100V, and it works well for their photography, but they think the X-T5 might be better. I was going to answer this question personally, but I can’t find the email or DM (sorry); instead, I will answer the question publicly, and hope they find it. Maybe it will also be helpful to some of you considering a similar scenario.

Because there is so much demand for and so little supply of the X100V, they’re selling for an inflated price right now. If a camera like the X-T5 is financially out-of-reach, yet you can get a good amount for your X100V, now the X-T5 is a possibility. But is it worth it?

I have a Fujifilm X100V. It was a birthday gift from my wife over three years ago, and it’s been my favorite camera ever since. Even though my X100V is far from new, it is still such a great camera, and I use it all of the time. I feel like it is the perfect tool 90% of the time, 8% of the time it’s not ideal but can be made to work, and 2% of the time it is just the wrong tool for the job. That’s for my photography. You might find it to be perfect 100% of the time for yours, or only 50%, or something else entirely. Each person is different. My opinion is that, while the X100V is my favorite camera, it is best when you have an interchangeable-lens option for those situations when it is not ideal.

I have a Fujifilm X-T5. I purchased it when it was announced so that I could try the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. The X-T5 is such a great camera, too—very wonderful! Fujifilm did an excellent job with this one. But I don’t like it nearly as much as the X100V. If I put the two models next to each other, most of the time I’d grab the X100V and not the X-T5. Let me give you five reasons for this.

Before I do—just real quick—I want to make it clear that this article is not about bashing the Fujifilm X-T5 or any other camera. I’m sure for some of you the X-T5 is your all-time favorite model, and you’ve never been happier. It could be that if you purchased it, you’d find the perfect camera for you. Each person will have their own preferences because we’re all different, and we have some excellent options to choose from. I’m simply speaking about my personal experiences and preferences.

First, the Fujifilm X-T5, while still fairly small and lightweight, is bigger and heavier than my X100V. This matters a lot to me, because the X100V rarely gets in the way, while the X-T5 can and sometimes does. After awhile of carrying around, the X-T5 gets tiring a lot quicker than the X100V. Also, I have a travel kit that I really like, and the X100V fits really well in it, while the X-T5 doesn’t.

Second, the Fujifilm X100V has some features that I find especially useful, such as the built-in fill-flash that works incredibly well (thanks to the leaf shutter and Fujifilm’s programming) and a built-in ND filter. The X-T5 has IBIS, which is also a useful feature, so this isn’t completely lopsided in favor of the X100V, but I use the fill-flash and ND filter fairly frequently, while IBIS is only occasionally useful for me—you might find the opposite to be true for you.

Third, the Fujifilm X-T5 is designed like an SLR, and the viewfinder is in the middle; the X100V is designed like a rangefinder, and the viewfinder is on the corner. When I use the X-T5, my nose gets smooshed against the rear LCD, and often leaves a smudge. With the X100V, my nose sits next to the camera completely unsmooshed (did I just make up a new word?), and the rear LCD remains smudgeless (another made-up word?).

Fourth, the X100V has more manageable file sizes than the X-T5. The 26-megapixel images from the X100V are plenty for me. I’ve printed 2′ x 3′ from straight-out-of-camera JPEGs, and they look great. I don’t print larger than that, so I don’t really need the extra resolution. If I needed to crop deeply I could with the X-T5, but since it’s an interchangeable-lens model, I’d simply change the lens as my first option. The X-T5’s 40-megapixel pictures fill up an SD card and my phone’s storage noticeably quicker. Sometimes more resolution means more problems.

Fifth, the Fujifilm X-T5 is subject to dust on the sensor. Technically, it’s possible to get a dirty sensor on the X100V (and that would be a big problem), but it would take a combination of a crazy scenario (I’m thinking haboob) and mishandling (no filter attached). I’ve never had a single dust spot (knock on wood) on my X100V, but it’s a constant battle with my X-T5 (and my other interchangeable-lens models).

So my recommendation is to keep the Fujifilm X100V, and not sell it to fund the purchase of an X-T5. That’s my advice, but it is up to each person to determine what is most appropriate for their unique situation. What’s best for me may not be what’s best for you.

With that said, I do think it makes a lot of sense to have an interchangeable-lens option to go with the X100V. I have a Fujifilm X-E4 that I especially love, and I use it more often than the X-T5. Yes, you heard that correctly: the X100V is my most used camera, the X-E4 is number two, and the X-T5 is in third place right now. They’re all wonderful options, and you should be happy with any of them. In the specific situation I was asked about, I do believe that cost is a significant consideration, and I’d look into a used Fujifilm X-E3 as a companion to the X100V, since the X-E4 might be too expensive or difficult to find.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X100V — Amazon   B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-E4 — Amazon   B&H  Moment
Fujifilm X-T5 —  Amazon  B&H  Moment

Answers to the 10 Most Common Fujifilm How-To Questions

Because I’m one of the more knowledgable people in the Fujifilm community when it comes to the ins and outs of camera settings, I’m constantly asked how-to type questions. I’m always happy to help, but I have to say, most of the time the answers are easily found in the owner’s manual. You mean that boring technical book packaged with my camera? Yes, exactly. Thankfully, Fujifilm has made them available online, and most of the manuals are easily navigated and even searchable. Digging into the owner’s manual for your camera has never been easier. Can’t find the answer with a Google search? I bet you can find it in the manual pretty quickly and painlessly. That really should be everyone’s starting point.

Not everyone will look through the manual, or maybe you did and still can’t find the answer. I decided to take this opportunity to answer the 10 most common how-to questions that I receive. Maybe you are searching for the answer and Google brought you here. My hope is that this article will be helpful to some of you as you’re trying to figure things out on your Fujifilm camera.

1. How to program a Film Simulation Recipe

I’m most known for Film Simulation Recipes—I have published pretty darn close to 300, which you can find on this website and the Fuji X Weekly App—so it shouldn’t be surprising that I’m asked about it the most. Programming Film Simulation Recipes into your Fujifilm camera is easy, once you’ve done it once or twice. While the process is similar across the range, not every camera is exactly the same, so you’ll want to review the Image Quality (IQ) Menu section of your manual, and also Edit/Save Custom Settings (not all Fujifilm cameras have this, but most do).

More than two years ago I published an article explaining how to program Film Simulation Recipes into your Fujifilm camera (updated here). That might be a good place to start, but not everyone learns well by reading. You might be just as confused afterwards as you were before. Thankfully, Scott Dawson made a video walking you through the process of programming a Recipe. Between my article, Scott’s video, and your camera’s manual, you shouldn’t have too much trouble with this one.

Sometimes that’s not enough, so here’s the quick answer: if your camera has C1-C7 (or C1-C4) Custom Presets (most models do, but the Bayer models and a couple of the really old cameras don’t), press the Q-button, then press-and-hold the Q-button, and the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu will appear (except on a couple of the really old models). That’s where you can enter the parameters (or most of the parameters) of a Recipe. Alternatively, and for those cameras without C1-C7, you can enter the parameters by pressing Menu/OK, then adjusting the appropriate settings, which are found in the IQ subset.

You should now be good to go. Once you’ve done it a few times, it will be a piece of cake.

2. How to resolve Clarity greyed out

The 1981 Kodak Recipe uses minus Clarity

This is simple: the drive mode must be set to Single frame (S) in order to use Clarity. Your camera will disable Clarity for any continuous shooting (burst) mode, HDR, or bracket. If you find Clarity greyed out, set your camera’s drive mode to Single frame (S).

3. How to fix DR200 or DR400 not available

The Fujicolor 100 Gold Recipe uses DR400

This is another simple answer: the Dynamic Range options are ISO dependent. If DR200 and/or DR400 are not available, simply increase the ISO. For X-Trans III and older, a minimum ISO of 400 is required for DR200 and a minimum ISO of 800 is required for DR400. For X-Trans IV, ISO 320 is required for DR200 and ISO 640 is required for DR400. For X-Trans V, ISO 250 is required for DR200 and ISO 500 is required for DR400. Make sure the minimum ISO threshold has been met for the Dynamic Range setting you are attempting to use.

4. How to set Highlight & Shadow with D-Range Priority

The Vibrant Arizona Recipe uses D-Range Priority

This one can be a little confusing. In my Recipes, D-Range Priority should always be set to Off unless otherwise stated. Most Recipes do not use D-Range Priority, but a few do. Sometimes D-Range Priority is confused with the Dynamic Range settings (DR100, DR200, DR400), but they are two separate things. When you enable D-Range Priority, it is in lieu of Dynamic Range, Highlight, and Shadow, so those three options will not be available to select. In other words, you can either use Dynamic Range (such as DR200) and the Tone Curve (Highlight and Shadow) or you can use D-Range Priority, but you can’t do both options simultaneously. Also, like Dynamic Range, D-Range Priority is ISO dependent.

5. How to set a White Balance Shift

The Cross Process Recipe uses a WB Shift of -3 Red & -8 Blue

This used to be the most asked question, but not so much lately. I wrote an article about it almost three years ago, so if you are stuck, be sure to check it out (click here). The simple answer: find the White Balance submenu in the IQ menu subset, highlight the desired White Balance option, then arrow-to-the-right to open the White Balance Shift menu for that particular WB type. Cameras older than the X-Pro3—X-Trans I, II, III, and the X-T3 & X-T30—cannot save a WB Shift within the C1-C7 Custom Presets, but the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, X-T30 II, and X-Trans V can. If you have a model that cannot save a WB Shift within the Edit/Save Custom Settings Menu, I did publish a solution that you might find helpful (click here). Models that can save the WB Shift offer a much improved experience.

6. How to get less yellow pictures

The Fujicolor Superia 100 Recipe is Daylight-balanced

Like film, many Film Simulation Recipes are intended for use in a particular light, mostly sunny daylight. When used in the “wrong” light, you might not get desirable results, and your pictures could come out yellow. My best advice is to use the right Recipe for the lighting situation that you find yourself in, or pick an Auto White Balance Recipe, which are usually more versatile.

7. How to shoot with a manual lens

I like manual lenses, whether it’s classic film gear or inexpensive third-party glass. They often have great character, which is missing in most precision-engineered modern lenses. Fujifilm has a weird quirk where you have to find Shoot Without Lens in the Menu (and it’s not always in an easy-to-spot location), or else the camera won’t let you capture a picture with one of these lenses attached. Once enabled, you can use manual lenses, but if disabled, your camera won’t capture a picture. If you cannot find it, look for Shoot Without Lens in your camera’s owner’s manual, and it will instruct you where to find it.

8. How to set Exposure Compensation

I’m surprised by how often this question comes up, and I think it’s because each Recipe lists a typical exposure compensation, usually with a range, such as +1/3 to +1. First, the suggested exposure compensation is simply meant as a starting point and is not a rule; each exposure should be judged individually, and you might need to use an exposure comp that’s outside of my recommendation. Second, if you are shooting full manual, think about how much you might need to increase or decrease the exposure over what the light meter is telling you in order to achieve the desired results—you aren’t using the exposure comp dial, so you’ll be manually doing it yourself with the aperture/shutter/ISO triangle. Third, you cannot set an exposure comp range or save exposure compensation to the C1-C7 Custom Presets. Fourth, Exposure Compensation, with rare exceptions, is found on a dial on top of the camera: +1 equals one f-stop, and the dots in-between equal 1/3 stops.

9. How to use older Recipes on newer models

The Kodak Vision3 250D Recipe is intended for the X-T3/X-T30, but used here on an X-E4

X-Trans III Film Simulation Recipes can indeed be used on X-Trans IV models. For the X-T3 and X-T30, simply set Color Chrome Effect to Off; for the X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II, additionally set Color Chrome FX Blue to Off, Clarity to 0, and choose a Grain size (either Small or Large)—do this also for adapting X-T3/X-T30 Recipes to the newer models. X-Trans IV Recipes can technically be used on X-Trans V, but, because blue renders more deeply on some film simulations, you should make an adjustment to Color Chrome FX Blue: if the X-Trans IV Recipe calls for CCEB set to Strong use Weak on X-Trans V, and if it calls for Weak use Off. This is for Recipes that use Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass; for the other films sims, no adjustment is needed.

10. How to resolve the Clarity pause

The Kodak Tri-X 400 Recipe uses plus Clarity

Most of the Film Simulation Recipes made for the newer models use Clarity; however, if Clarity is set to anything other than 0 it will cause a storing pause. I use this pause, which is about the same amount of time as advancing to the next frame on a film camera, to slow myself down, which I think is beneficial. If you are in a hurry, this pause can be annoying, and you might want to avoid it. So what are your options? You could forget Clarity and just accept the results for what they are. Switching to a burst mode, such as Continuous Low (CL), will disable Clarity; if you shoot RAW+JPEG, you could reprocess in-camera (or X RAW Studio) and add Clarity after the fact (this is Fujifilm’s recommendation). If a Recipe calls for minus Clarity, you could use a diffusion filter, such as CineBloom or Black Pro Mist, to produce a similar effect (5% CineBloom and 1/8 BPM are roughly equivalent to -1 & -2 Clarity, 10% CineBloom and 1/4 BPM are roughly equivalent to -3 & -4 Clarity, and 20% CineBloom and 1/2 BPM are roughly equivalent to -5 Clarity); however, there is no substitution for plus Clarity.

Those are the 10 most common how-to type questions I get asked. Hopefully this article will be helpful to a few of you who are searching for answers. Don’t be afraid to ask if you are still stuck with whatever issue you’re facing with your Fujifilm cameras. I don’t work for Fujifilm so I can’t guarantee an answer, but I’ll try to help if I can. I just ask that you attempt to find the answer in your camera’s owner’s manual first, because you probably don’t actually need my help; however, if you do, I’m happy to try.

Should You Buy a Fujifilm X-H2?

You might have noticed that, while seemingly everyone else was eager to share the news of Fujifilm’s latest camera—the X-H2—and give their opinions and praise, I have been quiet about it. Not that I’ve been quiet about the X-H2 (and X-H2s), but I haven’t said a word about it since it was announced last Thursday. I wasn’t planning to say anything about it today, either, but I’ve received a lot of messages asking for my opinion if they should preorder this camera or not. I’m not really sure what I can add to this conversation that’s unique, but I will try. Also, I’m feeling lighthearted, and I hope that somehow comes across in this article—if the words seem serious, I don’t mean them that way at all. Sometimes critical nonverbal queues aren’t conveyed in written text, so keep that in your mind as you read further down. With that said, let’s dive into this!

I definitely don’t like to state that anyone should or shouldn’t buy any specific camera model. That’s a personal decision, and I cannot know if something is “right” for you—only you can determine that. I can offer my two cents, which might not be worth even two pennies, but it’s not for me to decide what you should do. Because so many have asked, I’m going to offer my advice; however, take it with a grain of salt, and if you are really unsure, seek all sorts of opinions and decide which one resonates with you the most.

A lot of people seem to be surprised that Fujifilm didn’t send me an X-H2 to try. While Fujifilm has loaned me a few cameras to try out for a time (namely, an X-T200, X-Pro3, and GFX-50S), I’m definitely not on their short list to send new gear to. I’m not an X-Photographer or Fujifilm Creator or anything like that, and I have no official or formal connection with the company—I’m just a guy who shoots with Fujifilm cameras, creates Film Simulation Recipes, and shares my opinions and experiences on this blog. I think Fujifilm appreciates that I help to bring them a lot of sales, and that I help to foster excitement among their customers, but I also use competitor names (such as “Kodak”) and I’m not afraid to speak critically of them, so they’re not always happy about this website (I know this because they told me so during one of the handful of times that I’ve spoken with someone within the company). Funny (and completely true) story: Ken Rockwell (after he tried The Rockwell recipe) was kind enough to attempt to get Fujifilm to put me on their press list, but apparently his (unofficial) endorsement wasn’t enough because I’m not on that list (I hear about new gear the same way that you do). And don’t even get Fujifilm started on Fujirumors …within Fujifilm, you don’t talk about Bruno and you don’t talk about that rumor website—ever. I do think that Fujifilm should do more to meet the community where they’re at, and not be so standoffish to it just because they didn’t create the community and have no control over it. I don’t think they fully realize the unique position they’re in, and they don’t really know what to do with it. To capitalize on it, they need to embrace it.

A lot of people also seem to be surprised that I didn’t order an X-H2 to make Film Simulation Recipes on. I do hope to make X-Trans V recipes. It’s my understanding from the reports I’ve received that the X-Trans IV recipes (for the X-Pro3 and newer cameras) are 100% compatible with X-Trans V cameras, and the rendering is essentially identical to X-Trans IV. What the X-H2 does have that X-Trans IV cameras don’t is Nostalgic Negative, and I do hope to someday try that new film simulation. The reasons why I didn’t order an X-H2 (or X-H2s) are 1) it’s not in my budget, 2) I don’t think I’d like the shooting experience (big bulky body with PASM), 3) I don’t have any need for 8K, and 4) I find my current gear to be sufficiently quick already with more than enough resolution. It’s just not a camera for me; however, that doesn’t mean it isn’t for you.

I’ve received messages from people who ordered the X-H2s, and some told me that they really love the new camera and it’s the best camera they’ve ever used, and others have told me that they hated it and it is the worst Fujifilm user experience they’ve ever encountered, so they returned it. How can one camera have such strong yet completely opposite reactions? I went down a couple of rabbit holes, and I think I found some commonalities that might help you determine if the X-H2 is a camera you’ll love or hate. Below I have two checklists: one for buying the X-H2 and one against buying the X-H2. Check as many that apply to you in each checklist, and whichever side has the most, that’s the direction to lean. You still have to make a decision yourself on what’s right for you, but if you are stuck, maybe this will help a little.

You SHOULD buy an X-H2 if…

☐ You don’t mind, or maybe even prefer, PASM.
☐ You don’t care if your gear is bulky.
☐ Your first Fujifilm camera was an X-S10.
☐ Your only Fujifilm camera is GFX.
☐ You own a full-frame camera by Canon, Sony, or Nikon.
☐ Your primary photo/video subjects constantly move quickly.
☐ You like to have the latest and greatest technology and gear.
☐ You have a bunch of money saved up and are eager to spend it.
☐ You own a professional production company and want to phase out your Sony gear for Fujifilm.

You should NOT buy an X-H2 if…

☐ You like the tactile classic controls that Fujifilm is known for.
☐ You don’t like bulky gear.
☐ You don’t own an X-S10 or Bayer model.
☐ You don’t own a GFX camera, or if you do it is a GFX50R.
☐ You sold all of your Canikony gear awhile ago.
☐ Your primary photo/video subjects don’t constantly move quickly.
☐ You don’t mind waiting for tech to go on sale or to buy things used sometimes.
☐ You prefer to spend money on experiences rather than gear.
☐ You are simply a photographer.

Definitely take those checklists with a grain of salt. I know that not every statement applies to everyone, or even everyone equally. But, generally speaking, if one side has a lot more boxes marked, then it probably resonates with you, and perhaps provides some clarity if you are not sure what to do. It matters not to me if you do or don’t order the camera; if you do, I have included an affiliate link below, which, if you use, helps me out a little.

In other news, according to Fujirumors, the X-T4, X-E4, and X-T30 II cameras are apparently being discontinued. If you’ve been wanting to buy one, and if you can find it in stock, it might be a good time to put that order in. It also means that the X-T5 and probably X-T50 (I’m making the wild guess now that Fujifilm will skip the X-T40 name, for marketing reasons, and go straight for 50) aren’t that far out—I think X-T5 before the end of the year, and X-T50 first quarter of 2023. I don’t believe an X-E5 is in the works; if it does come, it will more likely be in 2025, closer to the end of the X-Trans V lifecycle, or perhaps never. I think an X-S20 will come shortly after the X-T50, probably less than a year from now. I don’t have any inside information, these are simply guesses.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-H2 Amazon B&H
Fujifilm X-H2s Amazon B&H
Fujifilm X-T4 Amazon B&H
Fujifilm X-E4   Amazon   B&H
Fujifilm X-T30 II Amazon B&H

Interestingly, the Fujifilm X-E3 can still be purchased brand new. Amazon

5 Best Travel Cameras (2022)

It’s summer, and if you can afford to put gas in your car’s tank, you might go on an excursion someplace. If you do, you probably want to take a camera with you—one that’s particularly good for travel—to capture the experience.

What makes a camera good for travel? In my opinion, it has to be small and lightweight, so that there are no issues taking it with you wherever you go—it doesn’t get in the way—yet it has to be able to deliver good image quality, so that when you get back home you can hang a picture you’re proud of on your wall to remember your great adventure.

If you’re not sure which cameras are good for travel, I have five suggestions below. These are just my opinions—if you ask five photographers which cameras they recommend for travel, you might get five very different answers. My perspective is that I prefer simplicity—less is often more—and I don’t like to edit my photographs anymore (instead, I use Film Simulation Recipes), so it has to deliver solid results straight-out-of-camera. If that resonates with you, perhaps take this advice seriously, and if it doesn’t, take all of this with a grain of salt.

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

1. Fujifilm X100V

Fujifilm X100V

The Fujifilm X100V (full review) is my top recommendation for travel photography. It’s my all-time favorite camera, but it’s especially great for travel, as if that’s its intended purpose. The X100V has a fixed 23mm (roughly 35mm full-frame-equivalent) focal-length lens, which is a very useful focal-length. You cannot change the lens (it’s permanently attached), which is a limitation that you have to be willing to embrace. While the X100V is pocketable, it’s only barely so, and more than likely you’ll carry it in a camera bag or around your neck and not in a pocket. If you don’t mind those things, this is the camera for travel photography, and you’ll definitely want to consider buying a Fujifilm X100V.

Fujifilm X100V Black    Amazon   B&H
Fujifilm X100V Silver   Amazon   B&H

Unfortunately, the X100V is nearly impossible to find, and you’re very lucky if you can get your hands on one. As alternatives, consider a used X100F, or even an X100T, which are easier to get ahold of and less expensive. If a used camera doesn’t interest you, perhaps consider the Ricoh GRIIIX, which is probably the X100V’s closest competitor.

Lower Falls – Multnomah Falls, OR – Fujifilm X100V – “Kodachrome 1

2. Fujifilm X-E4

Fujifilm X-E4

The Fujifilm X-E4 (full review) is very similar in size and design to the X100V, yet it’s an interchangeable-lens camera, which makes it more versatile. It’s a minimalistic model, and pairs especially well with the Fujinon 27mm pancake lens. If the X100V’s fixed-lens won’t work for you, the X-E4 might be the right alternative. This camera doesn’t have quite as many buttons, switches, and knobs as other Fujifilm cameras, which you might prefer or you might not appreciate, so keep that in mind. This is currently my most-used camera, travel or otherwise.

Fujifilm X-E4 Black    Amazon   B&H
Fujifilm X-E4 Silver   Amazon   B&H
Fujifilm X-E4 Black + 27mm f/2.8    Amazon   B&H
Fujifilm X-E4 Silver + 27mm f/2.8   Amazon   B&H

Like the X100V, the Fujifilm X-E4 can be very difficult to find. As alternatives, consider a used X-E3, or even an X-E2, which are easier to get ahold of and are less expensive. If a used camera doesn’t interest you, perhaps consider the slightly larger X-T30 II.

Ozark – Hot Springs, AR – Fujifilm X-E4 + Fujinon 27mm – “Magenta Negative

3. Ricoh GRIII

Ricoh GRIII

What’s great about the Ricoh GRIII is that it’s very small and pocketable, yet it delivers excellent image quality similar to bigger cameras. Oh, and like Fujifilm, I have JPEG recipes for it, too! If the X100V and X-E4 are too big, this is a must-try option—even if you own those Fujifilm models, you might consider adding this one, too, to take with you on your adventures. The GRIII has a fixed 18.3mm (28mm full-frame-equivalent) lens, which is a good wide-angle focal-length, but it also means you need to be close to the subject, which can be a challenge.

Ricoh GRIII    Amazon   B&H

If the Ricoh GRIII is too expensive, as alternatives you might consider a used Ricoh GRII, Ricoh GR, Fujifilm X70, or Fujifilm XF10.

Shop & Save – Fillmore, UT – Ricoh GRIII – “Americana Color

4. Instax Neo Classic Mini 90

Instax Neo Classic Mini 90

If you are looking for something different, the Fujifilm Instax Neo Classic Mini 90 is one to consider. Really, any Instax camera will do, as they’re a lot of fun, and you get rewarded with an immediate print. I only suggest this particular model because I own it and have experience with it. Of all the cameras recommended in this article, this is the largest, which means it is the least travel-friendly, but instant film photography brings so much joy, and is especially great if you have kids, so it might be worthwhile anyway.

Fujifilm Instax Neo Classic Mini 90    Amazon   B&H

If lugging around an Instax camera is just too much, as an alternative consider an Instax Mini Link Printer instead, which might actually be better than using an actual Instax camera.

Instax Mini picture captured at Goosenecks SP, Utah.

5. iPhone (or any cellphone)

iPhone 11 + Moment 58mm

Of course, the best camera is the one that’s available to you in the moment when you need it, and sometimes that’s your cellphone. I have an iPhone 11, which does the trick well enough. I also have my very own iPhone camera app, called RitchieCam—if you have an iPhone, download it from the Apple App Store today! If you don’t have an iPhone, I’m sure whichever make and model you do own is plenty good enough (although you can only use RitchieCam on an iPhone). I don’t recommend using only your cellphone for photography when you travel (although I’m sure many people do), but it’s a decent tool to supplement your other cameras while traveling, especially during those times when it’s what you have available to you in the moment you need a camera.

What alternative can I suggest to your cellphone? There’s a line in The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, where this photographer, Sean O’Connell, is in the Himalayas in Afghanistan waiting with his camera for a snow leopard to appear. When the cat finally shows itself, Sean O’Connell doesn’t do anything with his camera, so Walter Mitty asks, “When are you going to take it?” The photographer replies, “Sometimes I don’t. If I like a moment, for me, personally, I don’t like to have the distraction of the camera. I just want to stay in it.”

Natural Bridge Arch – Bryce Canyon NP, UT – iPhone 11 + RitchieCam + “Standard Film”

Best Fujifilm Cameras For Beginners

If you are looking for your first Fujifilm camera, it can be difficult to know which one to buy. Perhaps this will be your first “serious” camera. Or maybe you’ve had a different brand of camera for awhile, but you don’t use it all of the time, and you’re not all that experienced with it. It could be that you’re interested in a Fujifilm camera because you want to try my film simulation recipes. This article is intended to help you with your buying decision.

I’m making a few assumptions with this post: you’re in the market for a new camera, you want a camera that’s easy-to-use yet you can grow with, and you’re on a limited budget. Maybe those assumptions are incorrect for you, but I bet they’re true for many of the people who this article was intended for. My hope is that this post will give you some clarity.

So let’s look at a few Fujifilm cameras!

This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.

Fujifilm X-S10

The X-S10 is a mid-range mirrorless offering from Fujifilm that’s great for both still photography and video. It doesn’t have all the typical retro stylings and controls that most Fujifilm cameras are known for, but if you have some experience (even if just a little) shooting DSLRs or mirrorless cameras from other brands, this camera will likely feel more natural to you, and the learning curve will be just a little easier. It’s an extraordinarily capable model, and will keep up with you as you become a better photographer. If you are looking for the best budget Fujifilm camera for video, look no further, as the video-centric X-S10 is well-regarded for it’s cinematic capabilities. The camera retails body-only for $1,000, or $1,500 bundled with the Fujinon 16-80mm lens.

I recommendation the Fujifilm X-S10 camera if:
– You have some experience with a different brand and want the easiest transition to Fujifilm.
– You will be doing a lot of videography.

I don’t recommend the Fujifilm X-S10 camera if:
– You want the full Fujifilm retro experience.
– You are on a tight budget.

Buy the Fujifilm X-S10 here:
B&H Amazon

Fujifilm X-T30

The Fujifilm X-T30 is a great retro-styled mid-range mirrorless camera, but it is a couple years old now. Despite having the same X-Trans IV sensor and processor as all of the other models in this list, it is more like a previous generation camera. Don’t get me wrong: the X-T30 is an excellent option. I have this camera and use it frequently (you can read my review of the X-T30 here). Of all the cameras in this list, the X-T30 is the one I recommend the least, but I do still recommend it. It’s a solid option for both stills and video, but it is beginning to feel slightly dated. The camera retails body-only for $900, or $1,300 bundled with the Fujinon 35mm f/2 lens or Fujinon 18-55mm lens; however, it might be possible to find it discounted.

I recommendation the Fujifilm X-T30 camera if:
– You like the retro-styling.
– You can find it on sale.

I don’t recommend the Fujifilm X-T30 camera if:
– Having the latest and greatest is important to you.
– You’ll be primarily using it for video.

Buy the Fujifilm X-T30 here:
B&H Amazon

Fujifilm X-T30 II

The Fujifilm X-T30 II is a minor update to the X-T30, but if you plan to use film simulation recipes and/or use the camera for video, the new model has some important features that make it worth choosing. The X-T30 and X-T30 II share the same sensor and processor, but are basically two different camera generations. Not surprising, the new version is better. The camera retails body-only for $900, or $1,000 bundled with the Fujinon 15-45mm lens, and $1,300 bundled with the Fujinon 18-55mm lens; however, the X-T30 II isn’t out just yet, but it is available for preorder.

I recommendation the Fujifilm X-T30 II camera if:
– You want the best mid-range retro-styled Fujifilm model.
– You will be doing both still photography and videography.

I don’t recommend the Fujifilm X-T30 II camera if:
– You need a camera right away.
– You can find the original X-T30 on sale for significantly cheaper.

Buy the Fujifilm X-T30 II here:
B&H Amazon

Fujifilm X-E4

Fujifilm doesn’t currently have any low-budget entry-level models—the Bayer-sensor cameras, which serve this purpose, have all been discontinued, at least for now—so the X-E4 currently sits at the bottom of the roster, but, make no mistake, this is a mid-tier camera, similar to the ones above, and not low-end. While the X-E4 sits at the bottom, it is actually my top recommendation, with one exceptions: If you will be doing a lot of video, the X-E4 has some limitations that the X-T30 II and (especially) the X-S10 do not. Otherwise, my best suggestion for those in the market for their first Fujifilm camera is the X-E4. The camera isn’t perfect (you can read my review of the X-E4 here), and perhaps Fujifilm went slightly too minimalistic with it, but it is a pretty darn good option, and an excellent choice for someone wanting an uncomplicated camera that will grow with them as they become better and more experienced. The X-E4 retails body-only for $850, or $1,050 when bundled with the Fujinon 27mm lens.

I recommendation the Fujifilm X-E4 camera if:
– You want the cheapest mid-range retro-styled Fujifilm model.
– You want an uncomplicated option.

I don’t recommend the Fujifilm X-E4 camera if:
– You will be primarily using it for video.
– You think you’ll want a lot of programable buttons and dials.

Buy the Fujifilm X-E4 here:
B&H Amazon

Additional Thoughts

Obviously, if this will be your first Fujifilm camera and you are on a tight budget, you are going to need a lens—a body-only option won’t likely be your best bet, as you will want a lens bundle. Unfortunately, the X-T30 II bundled with the 15-45mm is the only option if you don’t want to spend more than $1,000. The 15-45mm lens is decent enough for a cheap zoom, but there’s a reason it only costs $100 (when bundled). Also, the X-T30 II isn’t out yet, although you can preorder it if you don’t mind waiting. Your next best bet is the X-E4 bundled with the (excellent) 27mm f/2.8, which is $1,050. The rest of the bundles are $1,300-$1,500, which very well might be above your budget.

If these prices are outside of what you can afford, you might consider a used camera, perhaps an X-Trans II or X-Trans III model. Something like the X-T1, X100F, X-E3, X-T20, or a number of other older cameras are good options. The used route is a good way to get into the system without breaking the bank.

If, by chance, you can afford a $1,400 camera, I have one more recommendation for you.

Fujifilm X100V

The Fujifilm X100V is my “desert island” model—if I could only have one camera, it would be this! I love mine (you can read my review of the X100V here), as it’s such an excellent camera. The X100V has a fixed lens, so you don’t need to go out and buy one, although the lack of interchangeable capability is a limitation you’ll have to consider carefully. Of all of the cameras in this list, the X100V would be considered the most “premium” of the group. The camera retails for $1,400.

I recommendation the Fujifilm X100V camera if:
– You want the most enjoyable Fujifilm experience.
– You want a compact option.

I don’t recommend the Fujifilm X100V camera if:
– You have a limited budget.
– You don’t think you’d like the limitation of a fixed lens.

Buy the Fujifilm X100V here:
B&H Amazon