There’s a feature on most Fujifilm cameras that few use—you might not even be aware that they exist—called Advanced Filters. Fujifilm introduced it in 2013 with the X100S and X20 models. With the exception of a few early models, your Fujifilm camera has Advanced Filters—find it on the Drive Dial or Drive Menu (depending on the specifics of your model). For older models, Advanced Filters are JPEG only; however, on newer models, you can save a RAW file in addition to the JPEG.
So why are the Advanced Filters so obscure and not widely used? Worse, why is it actually detested by some who have tried it? Well, the short answer is that Advanced Filters aren’t “advanced” at all, and are probably the most gimmicky and sometimes cringy thing Fujifilm has included in what are otherwise sophisticated cameras. My personal opinion is that some of the Advanced Filters aren’t half bad, and some are indeed bad and definitely out-of-date; none are especially good (although a couple have potential). Below I’ll briefly explain what each one of the Advanced Filters do. Also, this will serve as an open letter to Fujifilm, with suggestions on how to improve this feature for future cameras.
Here we go!
Toy Camera
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Toy Camera
Fujifilm describes this Advanced Filter as “a retro toy camera effect”, which is to say that it is roughly modeled after a Holga or Diana film camera aesthetic. The Toy Camera Advanced Filter is ok, but the big issue—and this is a problem with all the filters—is that it cannot be customized. You get what you get, and what you get is mediocre. I have used Toy Camera several times over the years because I like the idea, but I’m always a bit disappointed in the execution.
Fujifilm could make the Toy Camera filter much better by allowing it to be customizable. First, you should be able to choose any film simulation to use with it. Second, the vignetting should be adjustable, such as Weak or Strong, with the current amount being the Strong option. You should be able to add Grain (Weak or Strong, and Small or Large). Soft Focus—which we’ll talk more about in a moment—should be merged into Toy Camera, with the options of Off, Weak or Strong (Strong being the current Soft Focus, and Off being default). You should be able to adjust the contrast: Low, Standard, and High. Finally, Fujifilm should allow you to use any White Balance that you’d like, so that you can control the tint.
Miniature
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Miniature
This filter adds blur to the top and bottom of the frame, similar to using a tilt-shift lens. When you are photographing from an elevated vantage point, this Advanced Filter can give the illusion that the subject is a miniature model. It’s better to use an actual tilt-shift lens to get this effect, but if you don’t own one, this is an easy way to approximate it.
The Miniature filter, along with many of the others, are modeled after photography trends that were popular 15 years ago. By the time Fujifilm introduced Advanced Filters in 2013, these trends were already on their way out. Now, eleven years later, they’re very dated. While I don’t have any issues with Miniature being included, I also don’t think anyone would mind of Fujifilm axed it, or replaced it with something different entirely. How about a filter that gives an Aerochorme-like infrared aesthetic?
Pop Color
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Pop Color
Pop Color is my favorite Advanced Filter; however, it suffers from the same problem that they all do—it cannot be customized. The solution for Fujifilm is quite simple, actually: make Pop Color the next film simulation. Obviously it wouldn’t be called Pop Color; instead, Fujifilm should call it Fortia, as it resembles Fujichrome Fortia 50 film. Perhaps they’ll need to fine-tune some aspects of it in some way in order to make it a film simulation—whatever it is that they need to do, I believe that Pop Color absolutely should graduate from Advanced Filters into the film simulation list as Fortia.
High Key / Low Key
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – High Key
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Low Key
There’s nothing especially special about the High Key and Low Key Advanced Filters—both can be easily replicated using the Provia film simulation. You might occasionally use these two in lieu of having a Film Simulation Recipe programmed into C1-C7 with a similar look, but I don’t believe many people are doing that. Instead, you could use Recipes like Bright Kodak or Low Key for better results.
Fujifilm should replace these two Advanced Filters with something else entirely. How about a split-tone effect? Select any of the film simulations, have three-to-five different split-tone options (highlight and shadow with a different tints), plus have grain and contrast options for further customization.
Dynamic Tone
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Dynamic Tone
“Dynamic tone expression is used for a fantasy effect,” is how Fujifilm describes it. What it reminds me of is HDR photography with aggressive tonemapping, which was all the rage 15 years ago despite being hideous. This is one that Fujifilm should definitely axe, in my opinion. They could replace it with something like a high-contrast effect, where you can choose any film sim, but where the contrast is stronger than Highlight and Shadow set to +4 (Dynamic Range, White Balance and Grain should be customizable).
Soft Focus
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Soft Focus
This is kind of like setting Clarity to -20 and Sharpness to -10 on your Fujifilm camera. Obviously that’s not possible, but it it were, Soft Focus is what it would look like. Aside from being much too strong generally speaking, Soft Focus should be integrated into the Toy Camera filter instead of being standalone. A better Advanced Filter might be a faded effect similar to my Film Simulation Recipes that utilize double exposures like Faded Color, Vintage Color Fade, Bleach Bypass, and Faded Monochrome.
Partial Color (Red, Orange, Yellow, Green, Blue, Purple)
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Partial Color Red
Fujifilm X-T50 – Advanced Filters – Partial Color Green
The six Partial Color filters are the Monochrome film simulation (with everything set to factory defaults), but with one color recorded (either red, orange, yellow, green, blue, or purple—the singular color is the Provia film simulation). This is another effect that was popular 15 years ago, and I’m sure very few utilize it in 2024. If Fujifilm wants to keep Partial Color, they should allow it to be customized similar to how I described for the other effects; however, I doubt that many would miss it if Fujifilm got rid of it entirely. I think a cross-process filter would be much more interesting—perhaps like cross-processed Velvia, with deep contrast, vibrant colors, pronounced grain, and shifted hues. Something along the lines of the picture below, which is actual cross-processed Velvia 50 film.
To conclude, your Fujifilm camera has something called Advanced Filters that are rather mediocre at best and cringeworthy at worst. Pop Color is my personal favorite—it’s the closest your camera can get to straight-out-of-camera Fujichrome Fortia 50—and it should be made into a film simulation so that it can be customized with Grain, Color Chrome Effects, Highlight, Shadow, etc., etc.. Most of the Advanced Filters should be replaced with something else entirely, and I think I offered a number of good suggestions for that (for those keeping score, that’s Aerochrome, Split-Tone, High Contrast, Faded, and Cross Process, plus an improved Toy Camera). If you find yourself bored one day, perhaps try out some of the Advanced Filters for yourself—Pop Color is my recommendation if you’re only going to try one; otherwise, just know that you’re not missing out on much. If you are Fujifilm reading this, I would suggest working right away on new-and-improved Advanced Filters for the next generation of Fujifilm cameras.
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***Update: Well, that was fast! Fujifilm has released firmware version 1.02 for the X-T50, which fixes the issue for those who couldn’t update to version 1.01. If you are on version 1.01, version 1.02 is identical for you, so no need to update (although there’s also no harm in doing so, either). If you are on version 1.00, updating to the latest firmware fixes some small and rare bugs that are unlikely to affect you, but possibly could.
Fujifilm just recently updated the firmware on the X-T50 to version 1.01, but there’s been a small and unusual “bug” identified, which only affects certain models. The 1.01 firmware fixes some minor and rare issues; however, the firmware update itself has one issue.
The problem is a weird one: on only certain X-T50 cameras, you cannot update the firmware. That’s the bug. On certain models, you’re “stuck” with version 1.00. That’s no big deal, because version 1.00 isn’t bad whatsoever; version 1.01 was basically only a minor-bug-fix type update. I think the issue must actually be with version 1.00 and not 1.01, but it will all get sorted out soon enough, I’m sure, so no worries.
Specifically, the cameras affected are the silver models (not the black or grey) that were sold with the new kit zoom lens (apparently not the ones sold with 15-45mm lens or body-only) that have these serial numbers: 4BA24662 to 4BA26561, 4BA30592 to 4BA30661, 4BA34838 to 4BA35137, 4BA35678 to 4BA35857, and 4BA37468 to 4BA37687. Fujifilm was quick to acknowledge and apologize for the issue, and they are working on a solution right now.
The Fujifilm X-T50 that’s sitting on my desk in front of me is black, so I’m not affected, personally. However, if I were affected, I wouldn’t worry much. Also, it’s always a good idea to wait at least a few days—if not a few weeks—to update the firmware, unless it is one that fixes a major bug. From my experience with apps, when you fix the coding for something, something else seemingly unrelated can be affected by it; that functionality (whatever it is) wasn’t thoroughly tested because there was no expectation that it would perform any differently than it had before. So waiting a few days or longer before updating is a good rule of thumb that can save you some heartache later.
Victor Ha – VP, Electronic Imaging & Optical Devices Divisions, Fujifilm North America
Victor Ha is the Vice President of the Electronic Imaging and Optical Devices Divisions of Fujifilm North America. I met him twice while I was in New York City in May. The first time, I accidentally crashed a Fujifilm lunch meeting (funny story…). I got to introduce myself and not much else. The second time was at a loud and crowded bar. We had a short conversation, but it was a bit difficult due to the environment. Mostly we discussed art and photography in general, and not anything specific about cameras or even Fujifilm. I hope to one day talk about Fujifilm gear with him, as I have a lot of ideas and feedback that I’d love to share; who knows, maybe that opportunity will present itself someday. Anyway, Victor is a really nice guy, and it was a pleasure to speak with him in person.
Victor Ha was recently on a live Adorama YouTube broadcast (Episode 28 of Coffee with Creators) with Seth Miranda (a.k.a. LastXWitness). This is the video that Fujirumors shared indicating that the X-T5’s AF bug would be fixed and Reala Ace would be given to all the fifth-generation X-Trans cameras by the end of June (yea!). Unfortunately, I’ve been really busy over the last week, and I didn’t have a chance to watch it. Someone reached out to me to ask if I’d seen it, stating that I was given a shoutout. I hadn’t, so I watched it. I’ve included the video below, in case you want to view it, too.
If you don’t want to see the whole thing (it’s over an hour long), simply skip ahead to the 6:52 mark. Victor gives a very kind shoutout to Fuji X Weekly and briefly mentions Film Simulation Recipes. Specifically, he brought up the Reala Ace Film Simulation Recipe that I used while in New York City. Actually, I used two. For anyone wondering, I believe the one that he may have been talking about in the video was the Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm Recipe that is a part of my Fujifilm X-T50 Film Dial strategy. The other Recipe that he could have been referring to is PRO Negative 160C. They’re both fairly similar, and can be found in the Fuji X Weekly App (available for Apple and Android). Once the firmware updates are released, which could be any day between now and the end of the week, Reala Ace will be available for the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20 cameras. If you have one of those cameras, soon you’ll be able to use those Recipes, too.
I’ve seen a number of reviewers state that the new Fujifilm X-T50 is essentially an X100VI, but with interchangeable lenses—especially when combined with the Fujinon XF 23mm F/2 R WR. But is that really true? Is this camera and lens actually a good alternative to the Fujifilm X100VI? Let’s talk about it, and find out.
MPB is the sponsor of this article. They loaned me a Fujinon XF 23mm F/2 R WR to try out for a few weeks; however, they had no idea that I’d be using it with a Fujifilm X-T50. For those who don’t know, MPB is an online platform where you can buy, sell, or trade used photo and video gear. “At MPB, there’s something for everyone who wants to try something new, hone their skills, or pursue their passion—and it won’t cost the earth.” If you’re in the market for used camera gear, be sure to check out their platform—you can learn more about MPB here. Thank you, MPB, for making this article possible!
The premise is simple: the Fujifilm X-T50 and Fujifilm X100VI share a heck-of-a-lot of technical specs, they’re similarly sized, and, when you use the Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens on the X-T50, they have seemingly identical glass. The comparison is natural. But, if we dig deeper, it’s easy to spot some differences, too. In other words, there’s enough in common to consider them quite similar, but enough divergent that they shouldn’t be thought of as alike.
First, the similarities. Both Fujifilm cameras share the same 40mp X-Trans V sensor and processor. They both have IBIS. They use the same (old) NP-W126S batteries. They have the same film simulations. Video specs are identical. The tilting rear LCD is similar. On paper, the lenses are seemingly identical when the Fujinon 23mm f/2 is paired with the X-T50. At first glance you might think that the X-T50 is indeed an interchangeable-lens X100VI.
But there are some significant differences. Most obviously, the X100VI is rangefinder-styled, while the X-T50 is SLR-styled. The X100VI has a hybrid optical/electronic viewfinder, while the X-T50 has an EVF (not optical), and with a little less resolution. The X100VI has a (nearly) silent leaf shutter and built-in ND filter. The X100VI is weather-sealed (as long as you attach a filter to the lens), while the X-T50 isn’t (note: the Fujinon XF 23mm f/2 R WR lens is, in fact, weather-resistant). The X100VI has an ISO ring around the shutter knob; the X-T50 has a Film Dial. The X-T50 with the Fujinon 23mm f/2 is slightly larger than the X100VI. The X100VI is roughly $165 cheaper than the X-T50 with the Fujinon 23mm f/2 when you buy the lens used.
While the lens permanently attached to the X100VI is seemingly identical to the Fujinon XF 23mm f/2 R WR, they are actually not the same. Quite similar? Yes. Identical? No. They each have their own character. Things like lens flare, sunstars, micro-contrast, and bokeh are slightly divergent. I cannot say which is better, especially since that is subjective; personally, I like both lenses. If I didn’t own an X100VI, the Fujinon XF 23mm f/2 R WR is one that I would definitely have. Even though the characteristic of the two lenses are different, I feel like owning both is perhaps a bit redundant, unless you just really love the 35mm full-frame-equivalent focal length.
The Fujifilm X-T50 with the 23mm lens offers a similar yet divergent experience than the X100VI, but are they “close enough” for most people? Probably, especially if you cannot find an X100VI because the demand is so high currently. Overall, the X100VI is a more premium camera, and there’s a reason why it’s historically desirable. For the Fujifilm faithful, the X-T50 combined with the Fujinon XF 23mm f/2 R WR lens is not likely a sufficient-enough substitute for the X100VI; however, for the casual buyer, it probably is, and it might even make more sense, since you can interchange the lenses.
For those on a budget, you may want to consider the Fujifilm X-T30 II, which is similar to the X-T50 (however, without IBIS, fewer megapixels, and two less film simulations), but is less expensive. The Fujifilm X-T30 II combined with a used Fujinon 23mm f/2 lens will run you roughly $350 less than an X100VI, making it an excellent bargain. Yes, the X-T50 is the “better” camera, but the X-T30 II is nearly as good for significantly less money. The X-T30 II combined with the 23mm lens is more similar to the X100V than the X100VI, but most of the comparisons still apply.
I had a lot of fun photographing with the Fujinon XF 23mm f/2 R WR lens attached to a Fujifilm X-T50. It’s fantastic, a very useful focal length, and a compact size. Because I own a Fujifilm X100VI, I don’t anticipate buying the lens; however, if I didn’t have an X100-series camera, the 23mm f/2 would be essential to have in my kit. Thank you, MPB, for letting me use one for awhile!
Example pictures, captured with a Fujifilm X-T50 + Fujinon XF 23mm f/2 R WR lens on a recent trip to New York City:
Up next in this series: Leica Q2 from the perspective of a Fujifilm fanatic
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Orange Twist – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI – California Summer
This California Summer Film Simulation Recipe was so much fun to create! I’m a big fan of Preet (Instagram), a photographer from Dubai. I really like his photographic style and picture aesthetics. If you’ve never seen his images, definitely check out his work—you’re in for a treat! This Recipe was modeled after some of his recent photographs.
Nearly four years ago I created a Recipe called Bright Summer that was inspired by Preet. That Recipe was the sixth most used last month (May 2024), so it’s quite popular. Funny enough, Preet himself called it Preetra 400, and I see that nickname used from time-to-time on social media. Preet doesn’t utilize camera-made JPEGs (as far as I’m aware, anyway), but prefers to edit RAW files; he even offers Lightroom Presets, should you wish to RAW-edit your pictures similarly to his (or just to support him as an artist).
Original Chop Shop – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI – California Summer
The specific photographs that inspired this California Summer Recipe were from Preet’s recent trip to America—specifically, Texas. You can find these pictures on his Instagram. Obviously this Recipe doesn’t resemble all of his pictures, just certain ones; however, I think you can spot those pretty easily, because this Recipe is a pretty good match. Not 100%, but definitely very close. It would be a great honor if he ever tried this one someday.
I wasn’t sure what to name this Recipe. I called it “Preet Texas” in my camera, and initially “Texas Summer” for the article title. After carefully reviewing the pictures that I captured with this Recipe, I really felt that it produces a quintessential California summertime vibe. So at the last moment I renamed it to California Summer. I think that name matches the picture aesthetic well.
Colorful Shell – Anaheim, CA – Fujifilm X100VI – California Summer
For best results, use this Recipe in sunny daylight situations. It does well in harsh midday light and especially golden hour. It can be alright in shade. I would avoid it for indoor artificial light and nighttime photography, although under the right conditions I’m sure it can be ok for that, too. This California Summer Recipe is compatible with fifth-generation X-series cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, and X-T50 cameras. You can probably use this with newer GFX models, but I’ve not tested it for that, and it will likely render slightly different (don’t be afraid to try, though).
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: 6700K, -1 Red & -6 Blue Highlight: -2 Shadow: -1 Color: +4 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -4 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this California Summer Film Simulation Recipe on a Fujifilm X100VI & X-T50:
Palm Tops – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Information – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
A Sign to Drink Coffee – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Four Carts – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Squares & Fronds – Anaheim, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Food Mart – Anaheim, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Yellow Apartments – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
STK – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Yellow Wall – Anaheim, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Rooftop – Anaheim, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Pacific Coast – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Fiesta Flags – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Flying Ace – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Loop – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Xcelerator – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Pines – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Wood – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Coaster Tracks – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Spinning Dog – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Wheel Through Glass – Buena Park, CA – Fujifilm X100VI
Rock Wall – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50
Tree in a Meadow – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50
Forest Sunstar – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50
Colorful Rock – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50
Last Light on Tall Rocks – Sedona, AZ – Fujifilm X-T50
Fast Car – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
Horse Fountain – Scottsdale, AZ – Fujifilm X100VI
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Panasonic inadvertently created a controversy (actually, two). You’re probably aware of it already, but for those who aren’t, let me briefly explain it to you. Afterwards, I’ll tie it back into Fujifilm and Fuji X Weekly, and by the end it will all make sense why I’m bringing it up on this blog.
It began when Gerald Undone, a popular YouTuber, posted a video lamenting that Panasonic didn’t invite him to the launch event of the Lumix S9, nor did they send him a preproduction model prior to release. Gerald comes across as unnecessarily bothered for the exclusion; however, he goes on to make some extremely valid points that shouldn’t be dismissed. If you haven’t seen the video, I’d rather you watch it and form your own opinions than to read my commentary on it, so I’ll leave it at that.
What is important to note, though, is that—in Gerald’s view—Panasonic punished him for being critical of one of their products (or, really, using the “wrong” word), and they told him they were excluding him from the S9 launch because they were concerned he wouldn’t like the camera. In his opinion, Panasonic’s content-creator inclusion for the event was largely based on who they felt would tow the company’s line, which casts skepticism (fairly or unfairly) across the viewpoints of those who were invited. Again, you can watch the video and form your own opinions, I’m just trying to lay out the controversy for those who are unaware.
Afterwards, people noticed that the camera reviews by those who attended the launch event and/or who had received a preproduction model of the Lumix S9 were largely very positive despite the technical specs and features being surprisingly mediocre. There was an obvious disconnect between the initial reviews and the perception of those who had read the fine details. Did that prove Gerald right?
Important to the controversy is that the Lumix S9, aside from one important aspect, is probably the least interesting full-frame camera released in the last decade (this is my opinion, it’s ok to disagree). Some reviewers—I’m sure at the recommendation of Panasonic—suggested that the S9 is comparable to the Fujifilm X100VI; basically, the S9 is a full-frame interchangeable-lens X100VI alternative. However, the Fujifilm camera that the S9 is most similar to is the X-A5, and not the X100VI. The X-A5 has some advantages (mechanical shutter, hotshoe, grip, size/weight, price, lenses), and the S9 has some advantages (6K video, IBIS, larger dynamic range, better high-ISO, better autofocus); otherwise, those two models are surprisingly similar.
The “important aspect” of the Lumix S9, which is indeed noteworthy, is the ability to wirelessly transfer LUTs (think overlays or presets) from an app to the camera, and apply those to still pictures for straight-out-of-camera photography. Panasonic is trying to create a community around LUTs similar to the Recipe Community for Fujifilm. Interestingly, Panasonic’s slogan for the S9 is: “Shoot. Edit. Share.” It’s a mixed message, for whatever reason; however, Film Simulation Recipes have become so popular for Fujifilm that other brands are trying to figure out how to incorporate something similar, which should not be overlooked or under-appreciated.
Going back to the controversy, there have been a large number of people within the photography world who have commented on a perceived disconnect between what the Lumix S9 actually is and the hype that many YouTubers espoused who were flown to Japan for the launch. The solution suggested by some is to ignore the opinions of those who were given early-access to the S9, and especially to those who attended the launch. But is that fair?
I was recently loaned a preproduction Fujifilm X-T50. I wasn’t invited to the X-Summit launch event in Sydney, but I was flown to a secondary event in New York City. The X-T50 has a contentious design choice that I spoke (mostly) positively about. Do you see a parallel? Was I invited because Fujifilm thought I would hype the camera? Were my opinions influenced by Fujifilm’s generosity towards me? Can Fuji X Weekly still be trusted for unbiased opinions (or at least as unbiased as an unashamed fanboy can get)? I really had to ask myself these questions, and give this whole matter a lot of consideration.
When I arrived in New York, one of the first things I was asked by a Fujifilm representative is what I thought of the new Film Dial. I said that I was unsure about it at first, but once I figured out how to get the most out of it, I really liked it. The representative was surprised, because it was assumed that I wouldn’t like it, since it’s not necessarily designed for use with Recipes.
During the trip—and even before—it was stated several times by Fujifilm that what they wanted most was authenticity—those involved shouldn’t be concerned with what they may believe the company wants; Be true to who you are. I was also told that vulnerability is a virtue they appreciate. Looking back, my impression is that they wanted those in attendance to be at ease, and to not feel pressured to think or feel some certain way, or create some certain things. The point seemed to be more about establishing connections between creative people who happen to use Fujifilm products, and much less about the products themselves.
The question is whether or not I was influenced in some way by Fujifilm. I probably would not have picked up an X-T50 had Fujifilm not sent me one; had I not used it, I probably would not have spoken so positively towards it, because I wouldn’t have discovered how to effectively use it. That seems like an obvious one, to me. Maybe more subtly: I met some of the people behind the brand, and gained insights into some inner workings, which adjusted my perception about the company—essentially, some of my preconceived notions about Fujifilm had to be realigned to match reality. That’s a type of influence that I believe is actually positive. Did I come away thinking that if I speak negatively about the brand, I won’t be invited back? I’d be lying if I told you that it didn’t cross my mind, because it did; however, I don’t believe that is true.
This whole controversy has caused me to pause and self-reflect, and evaluate my own motives and actions. I want authenticity and vulnerability to be the gold standard of this website and myself, personally. I hope that I’m a trustworthy voice in the Fujifilm community—both now, and for years to come. I’m highly appreciative that Fujifilm reached out to me, loaned me a camera, and invited me to their event, and I look forward to any other potential opportunities to work with the brand in the future. If I have to leave my ethics at the door to do so, I’m not ok with that. Thankfully, I don’t believe Fujifilm would ask that of me, but it is important to not be complacent of the potential, and to hold onto my personal values tightly at all times.
As you are probably aware, the Fujifilm X-T50 has a new Film Dial, which allows you to quickly and easily switch between different film simulations. It’s a contentious design feature, and I think a lot of people were surprised that I actually like it.
To be honest, I didn’t care for the Film Dial at first, as it initially seemed to be something that I’d never use. But after thinking about it and playing with it, I discovered a way to get the most out of the Film Dial, which I wrote about here. Now, I love the new knob!
Afterwards, I received a number of requests to demonstrate what the article stated. Some people are visual learners, and it can be difficult to fully grasp the meaning of something that’s written. A number of messages and comments asked, “Can you show me what you mean?” That’s the entire point of my new YouTube video, which I’ve included below.
If you are a visual learner and are interested in or curious about the new Fujifilm X-T50, definitely give the video a watch. I hope that it is helpful to some of you—if so, let me know! If you’d like more of this type of content in the future, let me know that, too.
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All of the double-digit X-T series models are especially good for travel, thanks to their compactness. What I like about the X-T50 in particular is the slightly larger grip (compared to the X-T30), which helps when using bulkier lenses, the new Film Dial, which adds some SOOC versatility, and IBIS, which is great for low-light situations. While any of the double-digital X-T cameras are good options, including the original X-T10, the X-T50 is my personal favorite.
Fujifilm sent me a preproduction X-T50 to try out for a few weeks, and during that time I was able to take it on a couple of trips. There are a number of excellent travel cameras in the Fujifilm lineup, and you can’t go wrong with any of them—for example, the X100VI is also a personal favorite, and I like my X-E4 for travel, too. If you are in the market for an interchangeable-lens model that is really good for a roadtrip or cross-country adventure, the Fujifilm X-T50 is one to strongly consider. It worked really well for me, anyway.
Below are some photographs that I captured on a Fujifilm X-T50 while traveling. They’re all camera-made JPEGs that are unedited (aside from minor cropping/straightening).
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Dumbo Crowd – Brooklyn, New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T50 – Reala Ace Recipe
2024 has been a wild ride so far, but in the best way possible.
I have so much to share with all of you. I’m sure it will take weeks to get it all out via various articles, videos, and social media content. This post is simply to lay out the backstory, and serve as a foundation to build on. There’s so much that I’ve been wanting to tell you but couldn’t; however, now I can!
In January I got a call from Fujifilm North America. They told me that they like what I’m doing and that they want to work with me in the coming year, but they weren’t yet sure what that might look like. This call was more to get the conversation started, and to make sure that I would be willing to work with them. It was a very positive experience, but I took a wait-and-see approach.
I didn’t have to wait very long, as Fujifilm sent an email in March inviting me to be a part of a global film simulation project. Specifically, they wanted me to create some pictures using Nostalgic Neg., Classic Chrome, and Astia that illustrate how those film simulations can look. They encouraged those involved in the project to use Film Simulation Recipes. Of course, for me, that was a good excuse to invent some brand-new Recipes! Nostalgic Americana, Classic Color, and Astia Azure are the three that I created and used for my photographs. Just recently, Fujifilm published a Film Simulation page on their global website, which is the first fruits of the project—you can find two of my Nostalgic Neg. pictures there. I’m sure there is more to come.
Just as soon as that project wrapped up, I received another email from Fujifilm. They wanted to send me an unreleased camera to try out. Whoa! It was such an honor, just to even be asked. Of course I said “yes” and a week later a Fujifilm X-T50 arrived at my door. I had to wait until after the X-Summit announcement before I could talk about the camera.
Film Dial on the Fujifilm X-T50
It took me a few days to warm up to the X-T50, and a few more days to really figure out how to use it. But, once I did, it quickly became a personal favorite camera. I love the Film Dial! Is it the perfect implementation of it? No. Is it a lot of fun and useful? Absolutely! I still have the camera in my possession, but it’s due to be returned. It’s a preproduction loaner, so I can’t keep it. I just hope, if there is a wait list, that it’s not very long.
This isn’t the end of the story in the slightest. Well before the launch, Fujifilm invited me to join them on a creator’s retreat—Camp Fujifilm, as they affectionately nicknamed it—in the Catskill Mountains of New York, followed by a rooftop X-Summit Experience event in New York City. The retreat was a new thing that Fujifilm was trying out. I didn’t know what to expect, but I knew to say yes, no matter what else I may or may not have had going on at that time. It was a drop-everything-and-be-there type of thing.
So my wife, Amanda, and I flew out of Phoenix to Newark one week ago today. We stayed a night in Brooklyn, and the next day met up with everyone. Fujifilm chartered a bus; we loaded up, and were quickly off. This was our first time in New York City, so we were incredibly excited and just in awe of everything, trying to soak it all in. But as quickly as we got there, we were out of the city and in the rural greenery of the Catskills.
I don’t want to tell anyone else’s story. But, just real briefly, there were 13 creators (including myself and Amanda), plus three Fujifilm employees, at this retreat. It was a very diverse group. There were X-Photographers, cinematographers, YouTubers, hobbyists, etc.—just a wide range of talents and experiences. There were no real expectations. It was like Fujifilm wanted to know what would happen if they just had us all meet and hang out for a few days.
I was nervous because I didn’t know anyone there. I was unsure if I was going to fit in. Even though I have a popular Fujifilm blog (and some apps), I still often feel like an outsider in the general photographic community. But I had nothing to worry about. Everyone was great and welcoming, and we had such an incredible time. I made some new friends, which alone made the whole trip worthwhile.
I won’t soon forget the early morning hike in the pouring rain with Bryan Minear plus Matt Matkin and Lotta Milde of B&H (you may have seen them on YouTube or B&H’s social channels). Tom Baumgaertel (a.k.a. bewaremyfuji) was super helpful when discussing multiple exposure photography. I feel like everyone brought something to the table, and we all learned things from each other. Amanda was surprised how many questions she was asked about social media video trends, and in turn she was able to ask questions related to recording and editing videos. It was an invaluable experience—I’m sure for everyone there, but definitely for myself and Amanda. I hope that Fujifilm does this regularly moving forward.
Tunnel Traffic – New York City, NY – Fujifilm X-T50 – Pacific Blues Recipe – Double Exposure
We returned to New York City from the Catskills on Thursday. The bus dropped us off at our Manhattan hotel, and an hour later Amanda and I strolled over to Foto Care for the X-Summit Experience. The rooftop event was super cool. I got to shake hands with some of you and briefly chat cameras, which was amazing. I met some more talented content creators—photographers and cinematographers—and made some connections.
One highlight was meeting Omar Gonzalez. He was at the event, and we got to talk a little. He had his Fujifilm X-T20 Noir camera with him. I’m a big fan, personally, so it was like meeting a favorite musician or actor or something like that. I kept telling myself to play it cool, just play it cool. Anyway, it was so great to meet him!
Afterwards, I met up with more Fujifilm people, and hung out for awhile. We ate a mustard/sauerkraut pizza at Lions & Tigers & Squares at the suggestion of Shotti—I know it sounds gross (and it’s not something I would normally even try), but it was easily an all-time top-five favorite for me. The whole trip was so surreal, but especially this day. It was like a dream, except that it actually happened. It was so great to meet everyone and make a lot of new connections.
I have a lot more to share, but this is enough for today. I want to give a big “thank you” to Fujifilm North America for loaning me the camera, inviting me out for the retreat and event, and the first-class treatment. I’m so glad that I could meet the team, and I hope that we can work together more in the future.
The brand-new Fujifilm X-T50 was just announced! It’s both surprising and intriguing. This might be Fujifilm’s most contentious model since the X-Pro3, but it shouldn’t be controversial at all. What exactly is the X-T50? Is it the right camera for you? I’ll try to answer those questions in this article.
The double-digit X-T line has traditionally been Fujifilm’s mid-level, enthusiast-grade, interchangeable-lens, SLR-styled models (that’s a mouthful!). It’s the little brother of the single-digit X-T cameras, like the X-T2 and X-T3. With the discontinuation of the low-end triple-digit X-T series, the double-digit X-T cameras have become Fujifilm’s de facto entry-level option. The Fujifilm X-T30 II, which was released in November of 2021, is the current base model, although it’s neither cheap in quality or price—it’s still a mid-tier APS-C camera.
The X-T50 is not the successor to the X-T30 II, but a whole new (yet highly similar) line. Fujifilm plans to sell the X-T30 II alongside the X-T50, similarly to what they did with the X-T3 and X-T4 a few years back. This also means that there is a potential future successor to the X-T30 II, perhaps called the X-T30 III or X-T40; I don’t know that for sure, but I think it is a fair assumption. The main thing for you to know is that the X-T50 is not a replacement for any previous model, but a whole new camera.
There are some key things that set the X-T50 apart from the X-T30 II. First is the 40mp X-Trans V sensor, the same sensor found in the X-H2, X-T5, and X100VI; the X-T30 II has the 26mp X-Trans IV sensor. Second, like the other 40mp cameras, the X-T50 has IBIS; the X-T30 II doesn’t. Perhaps the biggest difference—and the one that is most contentious—is the Film Dial. The X-T30 II has a Drive Dial on top, but in its place on the X-T50 is a brand new knob for switching between the film simulations (Drive is a button on the X-T50, like on the X100VI and X-E4). Aside from that, the X-T50 is a tad bigger than the X-T30 II, has a more rounded design, and costs quite a bit more ($1,400 for the body-only). The X-T50 is more premium than the X-T30 II, but, unsurprisingly, it’s not at the same level as the X-T5. I’d call it an upper-mid-tier model, higher than the X-T30 II but lower than the X-T5.
The Film Dial is a brilliant move by Fujifilm. I know that some may not “get it” and that’s ok; not every camera is for every person. Film simulations are such an intrinsic part of the Fujifilm experience for many users. Placing it on top of the camera in a position of importance makes film simulations a more immersive experience, one that invites exploration. The Film Dial alone will sell the X-T50; 40mp, IBIS, 6K video, etc., are merely bonuses. By simply taking an already existing and loved feature, and moving it from an Fn button or Menu position to the top plate, Fujifilm reinvented the functionality of their camera.
It’s not that the X-T50 does something that the X-T5 (or any other Fujifilm camera) doesn’t, it’s only how it is presented to the photographer. You can use the exact same Film Simulation Recipes on the X-T50 that you can on the X-T5, X100VI, and X-H2, and the analog-like output is identical between each of those models. What is unique about the X-T50 is that a turn of the Film Dial will instantly change the film-like aesthetic. That experience differentiates this cameras from all the others—not just other Fujifilm models, but from every brand. The Film Dial makes the X-T50 a “digital film” camera.
I don’t want to get too deeply into what the Film Dial is and how to get the most out of it, because I have a whole article that explains it in detail (click here). What’s important to know is that the knob only changes the film simulation and nothing else. On the dial, there are eight (out of the 20) hard-set film sims (Provia, Velvia, Astia, Classic Chrome, Reala Ace, Classic Negative, Nostalgic Neg., and Acros), plus three customizable positions for your favorites that were left out. The “C” position simply disables the Film Dial.
If Fujifilm had asked for my input, I would have suggested a couple of changes. First, a C1-C7 Dial (or, better yet, a C1-C11 Dial, since there are 12 positions) would have been most ideal for those who use Film Simulation Recipes. That would’ve been less contentious, and I think a lot of current Fujifilm users would be excited for that; however, I understand why Fujifilm didn’t choose that route: a Film Dial is more inviting and less intimidating to the uninitiated. My advice to Fujifilm is to release an X-T55, which would be the exact same camera, but with a C1-C7 (or C1-C11) Dial in lieu of the Film Dial. Second, since they didn’t do that, I think it would have been really cool if each film simulation on the Film Dial could be customized into a Recipe. If Highlight, Shadow, Color, Dynamic Range, Grain, etc., etc., etc., could be custom set to each film sim on the Film Dial, that would be awesome. While Fujifilm could make that change with a Kaizen firmware update (and I very much hope they do), it would be surprising if they did. But, no worries, because I’ve figured out a good strategy for how to use the Film Dial as-is, and it’s highly enjoyable.
There are probably a number of people who are concerned that the X-T50 uses the “old” NP-W126 battery, and not the new NP-W235. I took this camera with me on multiple trips, and shot with it literally all day several times, and only once did I actually have to use a spare battery. So as long as you have two NP-W126 batteries, you should be good-to-go. Perhaps a second spare is a good idea if you record a lot of video footage.
So who is the Fujifilm X-T50 for? Is it worth buying? Should a different camera be considered instead? There are a few groups that the X-T50 makes a lot of sense for, and a couple of groups that I think it could potentially be a good option for.
First, the Fujifilm X-T50 is great for those who shoot film, but want to get into digital photography. With film prices so high right now, there are a number of analog photographers who are seriously considering their first digital camera. Or perhaps they haven’t picked up a digital camera in a long time because they didn’t appreciate the experience of it, and are searching for something that is more reminiscent of film photography. I can relate to this, personally. I have no doubts that it will be highly appealing to this group of people—after all, the X-T50 is Fujifilm’s “digital film” camera.
Next up are those who succumbed to the Fujifilm X100VI hype but cannot secure a camera due to the unprecedented demand. Specifically, I’m talking about those who are not current Fujifilm users—those who have a different brand of camera or perhaps no “real” camera at all currently. They will see the X-T50 as an alternative that they have a better chance at actually getting their hands on. Since most of the specs are exactly the same, it won’t take much to convince someone in this group to buy it instead of the X100VI. Obviously, there are some significant differences between the two models, but there are enough similarities that the X100VI’s demand (and Fujifilm’s inability to fulfill it) will notably fuel X-T50 sales. The X100VI’s hype is real, and, in my opinion, well deserved; the X-T50 is not an X100VI, but certainly close enough for many people.
Third, the X-T50 will be appealing to video content creators who desire streamlined color grading. The Film Dial works in video mode, and film simulations can reduce or even eliminate some editing steps. This is an underrated and underutilized aspect of Fujifilm cameras that I think will be employed more on the X-T50 simply because of the Film Dial.
Then there are Fujifilm X-T5 owners who want a smaller and lighter option—but with an identical output—to be a companion camera. Some might appreciate the divergent shooting experience, while others might not. I think, for this group, the X-T50 is contentions, and either you’re intrigued by it or put off, and your opinion has likely already been made.
The last group are those who have an older double-digit X-T camera, or perhaps even a triple-digit model, and are eager to upgrade to something brand-new. The X-T5 is a little too big, heavy, and/or expensive for you, while the X-T30 II doesn’t have the latest two film simulations or features like 6K video and IBIS. If you appreciate the Film Dial, the X-T50 could be perfect; otherwise, this might not be the double-digital X-T camera that you were wishing for.
I really like the Fujifilm X-T50, personally. It’s fun, and offers a divergent experience from the other retro-inspired models. But, no camera is perfect, and none are for everyone. Each person has their own preferences. I think the X-T50 will, generally speaking, appeal more to non-Fujifilm photographers than current Fujifilm owners. On one hand, that’s really good. The X-T50 will be a lot of people’s gateway into Fujifilm. On the other hand, there are plenty of people who will complain that Fujifilm should have designed it another way. I do wish that the new knob had been implemented just a little differently, but I completely understand why they did it. Just because this camera might be more well-received by those buying their first Fujifilm model, doesn’t mean that current Fujifilm enthusiasts can’t or won’t like it, too, because I think many will (I enjoyed it); however, there are some who definitely won’t.
The Fujifilm X-T50 is brilliant, as it blurs the line a little between digital and analog, and gives users a unique photography experience. I have no doubts that the Fujifilm X-T50 will be a huge success, and the new Film Dial will be a big reason for it.
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The brand-new Fujifilm X-T50 has a Film Dial! It’s their very first model with a Film Dial, actually. Turn the knob to give your photos a different analog aesthetic. The “films” are simply the various film simulations, which Fujifilm has been including in their cameras for a couple of decades now; originally there were only a few, but they’ve routinely added more over the years, and now there are 20 different film simulations to choose from. I really like the Film Dial, and I think it’s wonderful that Fujifilm has decided to make film simulations a prominent part of the X-T50 experience.
The Film Dial is great for exploration. Many photographers never venture outside of Provia/STD, or perhaps they try a few different options but end up sticking with just one, and they don’t really know what they’re missing out on with the other film simulations. Even though it is such an intrinsic part of the Fujifilm experience for many, you have to dig through the menu (or select the correct Fn shortcut) in order to change the film simulation. Now, it’s as easy as changing the shutter speed or aperture, and is placed in a prominent position of equal importance.
Fujifilm’s film simulations are good straight-out-of-the-box, but with some parameter adjustments, they can become great. To get the most out of the various film simulations, you need to make changes to the factory-default settings (a.k.a. use Film Simulation Recipes). However, the Film Dial becomes problematic when you do this because rarely do multiple film simulations look good with the same Recipe settings. Sometimes they do, such as with Kodak Portra 400 v2, Vintage Vibes, and Ferrania Solaris FG 400, which require the same exact settings (note: use Color Chrome FX Blue Off on X-Trans V), but three different film simulations: Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, and Eterna Bleach Bypass. Most of the time, however, whenever you use a different film sim than what the Recipe calls for, the results are less than spectacular, such as when Omar Gonzalez accidentally used Classic Chrome instead of Classic Negative with the Agfa Vista 100 Recipe.
Initially, I wasn’t sure how to best implement the Film Dial into my workflow. I figured that it makes the most sense if you have the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Recipe programmed into one of the C1-C7 custom presets—turn the knob to NC and now you’ve got Vintage Vibes, and set Eterna Bleach Bypass to one of the three FS custom positions and you’ve got Ferrania Solaris FG 400. It’s like having two extra custom presets! While that in-and-of-itself is great, I wondered if I could come up with an even better strategy to get the most out of the Film Dial.
Before jumping into that, let’s talk a little about the Film Dial, which sits just above the words “X-T50” and in place of the Drive Dial that the X-T30 has (Drive is now a button like on the X100 and X-E series). There are 20 film simulations, and only 12 positions on the Film Dial, which means that some film sims got left out. There are eight “films” on the knob: Provia (STD), Velvia (V), Astia (S), Classic Chrome (CC), Reala Ace (RA), Classic Negative (NC), Nostalgic Neg. (NN), and Acros (A). Acros can be customized to +Y, +R, or +G, if you prefer one of those over standard Acros. For those keeping score, PRO Neg. Hi, PRO Neg. Std, Eterna, Eterna Bleach Bypass, Monochrome (including +Y, +R, and +G), and Sepia have all been left out.
Fujifilm does provide three customizable options (FS1, FS2, FS3), so you can add some of the left-out film sims back to the dial. Personally, I found Acros+Y, Acros+R, and Acros+G to be excellent contenders for this. If you don’t do much black-and-white photography, maybe PRO Neg. Std, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass could be good options. There’s also the “C” position on the knob, which is what you want the dial to be set to when using your C1-C7 custom presets. You can program a bonus 8th Recipe into the IQ Menu set; when you don’t have a C1-C7 selected (a.k.a. P, A, S, M, Off, or Nothing Selected, just depending on where you’re viewing it from), this bonus Recipe is activated, and you’ll want to use “C” for this, too. If this bonus Recipe is programmed with a film simulation that’s not otherwise on the Film Dial, you can have 12 (of the 20) film sims at your disposal.
That was all a little convoluted, so just to be clear: the “C” position simply disables the Film Dial; if the knob is set anything other than “C” it will use that film simulation, no matter what you may have otherwise programmed into your camera. There were several times that I forgot to check what the Film Dial was set to (not verifying that it was in the “C” position), and I accidentally used the wrong film simulation with my Recipe for some pictures, until I caught my mistake. It’s important to check the position of the Film Dial—make it a habit—when using the X-T50. Once you are used to how this all works, the camera is so much fun to use, and it feels like there are a massive number of Recipes available to you on the camera at any given time.
A couple other quick points that I want to make about the Film Dial is that it isn’t just for straight-out-of-camera JPEG photographers. Obviously those who use film simulations regularly are the most obvious beneficiaries of the new knob, but there are two other groups of people who might unexpectedly appreciate it. The first is those who shoot RAW but oftentimes apply a film simulation to their pictures in Lightroom or Capture One; now, you can know while your making your exposure what it will look like with a certain film simulation, instead of waiting until later while at your computer. Having a clearer vision of the finished picture at the moment the image has been snapped will only improve one’s photography. The other group is videographers who don’t (yet) realize that they can reduce or even eliminate color grading by using film simulations—the Film Dial works in video mode, too.
If you’re not sure what analog aesthetic a certain film simulation is replicating or how it behaves, pressing the Q-button while browsing via the Film Dial will provide you with a brief synopsis of each. I think these need to be taken with a small grain of salt, though, because a bit of liberty was taken by Fujifilm when writing some of them out. With that said, this is a good starting point for learning about the various options, if this is new to you.
The Film Dial only changes the film simulation. All of the other settings remain the same when you turn the knob. This is, of course, the problematic situation that I mentioned before. While contemplating a solution, I remembered the “different approach” that Anders Lindborg came up with a few years back, and how he was able to get good results when using the various film simulations with the same base settings. I wanted to try my hand at something similar: have one set of settings, which could be programmed into a C1-C7 slot or in the IQ Menu, and simply turning the Film Dial will produce good results no matter the film simulation that you’ve selected. In other words, I set out to create one Film Simulation Recipe that works well with all of the film simulations. It was definitely difficult to do, because (like I already said) one set of settings doesn’t often work well with multiple film simulations.
I desired these settings—this new Recipe—to be generically analog-like, and also versatile. Sunny, rainy, indoors, outdoors—whatever situation you find yourself in, and whatever subject you are photographing, this Recipe will produce good results. You just have to find the film sim that is most ideal for whatever it is that you are photographing, and how you want it to render—your own personal tastes and styles will largely dictate which one is most ideal for you, and the best way to find out is to give them a try. Turn the Film Dial until you get to the one that you want to use.
Just to be completely clear, the way this works is that you program the Recipe (that’s found below) into either a C1-C7 slot, or (as I did it) into the IQ Menu set. Then, when this Recipe is selected, simply rotate the Film Dial to choose the film simulation that you want to use. There are eight built-into-the-knob film sims, plus three custom, plus “C” (which is whatever you have programmed into the Recipe). My recommendation is to choose—for the programmed Recipe—a film sim that is not available on the knob (I chose Eterna). Carefully consider which three film simulations you want to custom set in addition to the standard eight; unfortunately, you cannot have all 20, but you can have most of them.
Only the Fujifilm X-T50 has a Film Dial, but all Fujifilm cameras have an Fn shortcut to the film simulation menu. If yours doesn’t, or you don’t like the specific button that it is set to, you can customize it yourself pretty easily. Even though your camera doesn’t have a Film Dial, you can do pretty much the same thing using an Fn button—the advantage you have is quick access to all of the film simulations and not just some, but the disadvantage is that it takes an extra step and isn’t as instinctive or obvious. Even though the technique in this article is specifically for the Fujifilm X-T50, you can do this on any Fujifilm camera; however, the Recipe below is intended for fifth-generation X-Trans cameras (as of this writing: X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, X100VI, and X-T50), and not the older models, although you’re probably alright using it on some fourth-generation X-Trans cameras (X-T4, X-S10, X-E4 & X-T30 II), and newer GFX.
I’ve lumped all four Acros options into one category; ditto for Monochrome. That means, technically speaking, I have 14 Film Simulation Recipes below. You can use as many as 12 of them on your X-T50, so you’ll have to decide which ones (PRO Neg. Hi, PRO Neg. Std, Eterna, Eterna Bleach Bypass, Monochrome, or Sepia) you want available in addition to the standard eight (Provia, Velvia, Astia, Classic Chrome, Reala Ace, Classic Negative, Nostalgic Neg., and Acros).
It would be absurd to include all 14 versions of this Recipe in the Fuji X Weekly App; even adding eight to the App is too much, but (with hesitation) that’s what I’ve done. Hopefully it will make this approach discoverable, because I can imagine many X-T50 owners utilizing it, and maybe even some who have other cameras. This doesn’t take the place of C1-C7, but can be used in addition to it, basically giving you 19 different Film Simulation Recipes at your disposal, and, if you have Kodak Portra 400 v2 as one of the seven custom presets, you can actually have 21 Recipes! Additionally, you could choose three of these for use with the Film Simulation Bracket feature.
Film Simulation: Any (See Below) Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto White Priority, +2 Red & -4 Blue Highlight: -1.5 Shadow: -1 Color: +3 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Additionally, for Acros and Monochrome, set Monochromatic Color to WC 0 & MG 0 (a.k.a. Off). Also, Color will be disabled for Acros, Monochrome, and Sepia.
Provia/STD — “Standard Film”
This “Standard Film” Recipe is bright, colorful, and slightly warm. Unintentionally, it’s more like actual Fujichrome Provia 100F slide film (especially if an 81B warming filter had been used) than the Provia film simulation with factory-default settings. It’s a good option for landscape photography, but some might find it to be a tad too vibrant for portraits. “Standard Film” is kind of similar to the Provia Slide Recipe, or perhaps a less warm KodaNeg VC.
Velvia/Vivid — “Velvia Film”
Velvia was the go-to film for vibrant landscape photography. If you want the colors to pop, this “Velvia Film” Recipe is what you want to use. There’s definitely some resemblance to Fujichrome Velvia 50 reversal film with a warming filter. This is a great option for landscapes; however, don’t use this Recipe for portraits, unless you want your subjects to look like they have a sunburn. Vibrant Velvia is probably the most similar Recipe, but this one is warmer and a little less punchy.
Astia/Soft — “Astia Summer”
Fujichrome Astia 100F was a lower-contrast, lower-saturation slide film with a slight red/purple hue that was specifically intended for portraits. Divergently, the Astia film simulation has high saturation that sits somewhere in-between Provia and Velvia, but with a flatter tonality (yet with deep blacks). I think the “Soft” description is in reference to the tonality. The film and the film simulation are significantly divergent from each other; Fujifilm has stated that the film simulation is the ideal of what the Astia film was intended to be, but wasn’t possible due to the limitations of the emulsion. This “Astia Summer” Recipe is more similar to Kodak Ektar 100 than Fujichrome Astia 100F, but is not a great match for either. It’s good for landscapes—especially when Velvia is too strong—but possibly too vibrant for portraits. The closest Recipe to this one is CineStill 400D v2, but it’s noticeably different.
Classic Chrome — “Kodak Film”
Classic Chrome has a distinct Kodak color palette, but Fujifilm won’t ever use the name of their long-time competitor. It’s more contrasty and less saturated than many of the other film simulations. Unsurprisingly, Classic Chrome is by far the most popular film simulation among those who use Film Simulation Recipes. This “Kodak Film” Recipe is by chance kinda-sorta similar to the (discontinued) Kodak Portra 160VC emulsion (but it’s certainly not a perfect match). This one is good for a lot of different subjects and situations, including portraits. With similarities to Reggie’s Portra, this Film Simulation Recipe will likely become the most popular of all of these.
Reala Ace — “Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm”
Reala Ace is Fujifilm’s newest film simulation. It’s purportedly based on Reala film, but it’s not a very close replication of that emulsion, which is in the Superia line, and more similar to Classic Negative. Instead, Reala Ace is nearer to the Fujicolor PRO 160 line, and shares similarities with PRO Neg. Std and PRO Neg. Hi. Reala Ace probably should have been named PRO Neg. C, since it is most similar to Fujicolor PRO 160C film. Of the three “PRO Neg.” film sims, Reala Ace is my personal favorite. Essentially, Fujifilm has “replaced” both PRO Neg. Hi and PRO Neg. Std with Reala Ace; yes, both of those film sims still exist, but Reala Ace is on the Film Dial instead. This Recipe is reminiscent of Fujicolor PRO 160C film used with a warming filter. It’s good for a lot of different subjects and situations, including portraits. The closest Film Simulation Recipe to “Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm” is PRO Negative 160C.
Classic Negative — “Superia Negative”
Classic Negative is closely modeled after Fujicolor Superia film, which Fujifilm introduced in 1998. It is one of the less saturated and most contrasty film simulations. Classic Negative has some unique color shifts, and behaves differently to under and over exposure, much like the emulsion. This “Superia Negative” Recipe isn’t modeled after any Superia film, but it does have a general Superia Xtra 400 vibe. It’s good for a lot of subjects and situations, especially in low-contrast light. The Film Simulation Recipe that is most similar to this is Superia Xtra 400. The picture above looks extremely similar to one that I saw as wall art inside of an AirBnB.
Nostalgic Neg. – “Nostalgic Film”
Nostalgic Neg. is the second most recent addition to the film simulation lineup. It’s modeled after American New Color images from the 1970’s. Nostalgic Neg. has a strong Kodak quality, particularly photographic prints from five decades ago. This is the warmest film sim, which means that “Nostalgic Film” is the warmest Recipe of this group. In my opinion, it might be slightly too vibrant and amber for portraits, but your milage may vary. If you want a retro rendering, the “Nostalgic Film” Recipe is your best bet from these 14. The closest Film Simulation Recipes to this are maybe Kodak Vericolor Warm and 1976 Kodak.
Fujifilm introduced Neopan Acros black-and-white negative film back in 1952. Neopan Acros came in four versions: ISO 100, ISO 400, ISO 1600, plus an ISO 400 version for C41 development that was actually repackaged Ilford XP2 Super 400. Neopan Acros was briefly discontinued in 2018, and reintroduced in 2019 as Neopan Acros 100 II. Curiously, the new version is actually manufactured by Harman (the parent company of Ilford), although it behaves quite similarly to the original.
Typically, I prefer contrasty black-and-white pictures; however, this “Neopan Negative” Recipe is fairly low-contrast. It has to be used thoughtfully, or else the pictures will look slightly muddy. The Acros filter options (+Y, +R, +G) are your friend, and FS1, FS2, and FS3 are a great place to put them. This Recipe thrives on high-contrast scenes. For grainer pictures, use higher ISOs, as the Acros film sim has built-in Grain that increases with the ISO. If I could only pick one Acros option for the “Neopan Negative” Recipe, I’d go with Acros+R. There’s not really any Film Simulation Recipe that’s similar to this one, but perhaps B&W Superia is the closest.
That covers the “standard” eight film simulations found on the Fujifilm X-T50’s Film Dial. The above Film Simulation Recipes can be found in the Fuji X Weekly App. The six Recipes below can also be used, but you won’t find them in the App; however, if you have an X-T50, I recommend choosing one of them as the base, since their film sim is not on the Film Dial. Also, you can program up to three of them into the FS1, FS2, and FS3 positions if you’d like.
PRO Neg. Hi — “Fujicolor PRO Film”
This “Fujicolor PRO Film” Recipe is fairly similar to the Reala Ace version (called “Fujicolor PRO 160C Warm”) higher up in this article. You’ll find it to be a decent all-around option; however, I like Reala Ace more than PRO Neg. Hi. It’s a solid choice to serve the “base” film sim or for FS1, FS2, or FS3, but also slightly redundant. The Film Simulation Recipe that this one is most similar to is PRO Negative 160C.
PRO Neg. Std — “Fujicolor PRO 160S”
For pictures of people, this is my favorite of these Film Simulation Recipes—followed closely by the Classic Chrome (“Kodak Film”), Eterna (“Cinematic Film”), and Classic Negative (“Superia Negative”) options. PRO Neg. Std is nearly identical to PRO Neg. Hi, just lower-saturated and with less contrast. This “Fujicolor PRO 160S” Recipe is a strong contender for the “base” film sim or for FS1, FS2, or FS3. It’s not especially similar to any other Recipe, but perhaps Fujicolor Pro 160NS is the closest.
Eterna/Cinema — “Cinematic Film”
This “Cinematic Film” Recipe is the second lowest saturated and least contrasty of all the color options in this series. It has a lovely soft quality that is especially great for high-contrast scenes. It’s one of my personal favorites, and the one that I personally used for the base film simulation. Eterna is the name of Fujifilm’s line of motion picture films. The most similar Recipes to “Cinematic Film” are Indoor Angouleme, Timeless Negative, and Eterna Low-Contrast.
Eterna Bleach Bypass — “Reduced Bleach”
Eterna Bleach Bypass has the lowest saturation and highest contrast of all of the film simulations. Bleach bypass is a development technique where the bleach step is reduced or eliminated, resulting in a high-contrast, low-saturated image that almost appears like a B&W picture over a color picture. It can be used in still photography, but is more commonly found in motion pictures. Think Saving Private Ryan. This “Reduced Bleach” Recipe is somewhat similar to cinema film that has had the bleach step decreased (but not skipped). It’s a great option for results that are significantly different from the other options. The closest Recipe to this one is probably Ferrania Solaris FG 400, although it’s notably divergent.
The Monochrome film simulation is simply Provia with the color turned off. It was the standard B&W film sim until the introduction of Acros on X-Trans III. Generally speaking, I like Acros much more than Monochrome, as Acros has more of an analog feel to it; however, Monochrome does have a slightly harsher tonality, so there are times that the Monochrome film simulation could be preferable. Similar to the “Neopan Negative” Recipe, this one thrives in high contrast light, and the filter options (+Y, +R, +G) are your friends. The only way to use all four Monochrome options are to have one as the base Recipe, then set the other three to FS1, FS2, and FS3. The Film Simulation Recipe that’s closest to the “Monochrome Film” Recipe is Ilford FP4 Plus 125.
Sepia — “Sepia Print”
Last and certainly least is Sepia. This film simulation has been around for a long time, but very few use it. If Fujifilm discontinued it, most probably wouldn’t even notice. Sepia is a darkroom technique where you bathe B&W prints in a chemical for archival and artistic purposes. Most commonly, Sepia baths are quick, and the toning subtle; however, the prints can be left in longer, resulting in a pronounced reddish/brown tone. This film simulation replicates that. For a more subtle effect, simply use either “Neopan Negative” or “Monochrome Film” with Monochromatic Color set to WC +2 MG -2. The only Film Simulation Recipe that is similar to this “Sepia Print” Recipe is Sepia. Most likely you’ll skip this one, but if you’re looking for something different, maybe give it a try.
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