CineStill 800T is a motion picture color negative film with the Remjet layer removed so that it can be developed in standard C41 chemistry. It’s actually repackaged Kodak Vision3 500T, which requires the ECN-2 development process. The “T” in the name means that it’s Tungsten-balanced, and is intended for use in artificial light; in daylight, it has a strong blue cast (unless you pair it with a color correction filter, such as Type 85), so most people use it at night. Because the Remjet layer has been removed, it’s prone to a blooming effect around bright light sources, such as streetlights.
It’s really difficult to accurately replicate a CineStill 800T aesthetic because there’s only so much that can be done to approximate certain aspects of it on Fujifilm cameras. As with any film, it can produce a lot of different looks depending on a host of factors, including how shot, developed, and scanned and/or printed. I feel that this Recipe does a pretty good job considering those factors, but I’ll be the first to admit that it’s not perfect. This isn’t a new Film Simulation Recipe, but a slight modification of the X-Trans IV CineStill 800T Recipe for use on X-Trans V models. The only change is that Color Chrome FX Blue has been adjusted from Strong to Weak, since X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on certain film simulations.
This CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with all fifth-generation X-Trans cameras, which, as of this writing, are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, and X100VI. I’m sure that it can also be used on newer GFX models, but I’ve not personally done so, and most likely it will render slightly different (try it anyway). This Recipe is a great option for after-dark photography, and it can sometimes produce interesting results in daylight situations, too.
Film Simulation: Eterna Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Fluorescent 3, -6 Red & -4 Blue Highlight: 0 Shadow: +2 Color: +4 Sharpness: -3 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -5 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5 & X100VI:
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So you purchased a Fujifilm X100VI, but you’re not sure which Film Simulation Recipes to program into your camera’s C1-C7 Custom Presets first. Well, let me help with that! I’ve got just the seven Recipes for you to try. If you have any other X-Trans V camera, this set will work for you, too.
Like film, many Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases where they work best. The majority are intended for sunny daylight situations; however, they can sometimes work really well in other scenarios, too. For example, I’ve gotten great results pairing Kodak Portra 800 v3 with flash for indoor photography, even though it was intended for sunshine. This set is meant to provide you with at least one Recipe that will work great in nearly any light situation and with almost every imaginable subject.
It’s important to note that everyone has different tastes and preferences. Your style might be different than mine. If you don’t like one or more of these seven Film Simulation Recipes, no problem. Simply try the suggested alternatives until you do. Perhaps you won’t like Kodachrome 64, but you’ll love Kodak Gold 200. Or maybe you’ll love both Reala Ace and Timeless Negative. The only way to know for sure is to give them a try! You can pick any from the X-Trans V list, and I’m always making more.
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Fujifilm introduced Superia 1600 in 2000. It was the highest ISO version of Superia, and was one of the best ultra-high ISO color negative films ever made. There are some reports that both Natura 1600 and Press 1600 were the same emulsion as Superia 1600, but they might be slightly varied; Fujifilm was known for keeping their “best” emulsions in Japan, sometimes tweaking the film to best reproduce Japanese skin tones. Whatever the case, there were plenty of photographers who were disappointed by its discontinuation in 2016.
This is a quick update to the X-Trans IV Fujicolor Superia 1600 Film Simulation Recipe for compatibility for fifth-generation X-Trans cameras. Because X-Trans V cameras render blue more deeply on some film simulations, including Classic Negative, a small tweak to Color Chrome FX Blue is necessary. Aside from that small change, this Recipe is identical to the X-Trans IV version. If you have a fifth-generation X-Trans camera, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, and X100VI, use this version of Fujicolor Superia 1600.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Daylight, +3 Red & +1 Blue Highlight:0 Shadow: +2 Color: -3 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -4 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 — for best results: 1600 to 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Fujicolor Superia 1600 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Ultra 100 was a short lived color negative film made by Agfa from 2003 to 2005. After its discontinuation it gained a cult-like following; unsurprisingly, I’ve been asked many times to replicate the aesthetic for Fujifilm cameras. The supply of this emulsion has been getting smaller and smaller, and before long it will likely be completely gone. Nowadays, a digital approximation will be your best bet to achieve an Agfa Ultra 100 look.
Two years ago I published an Agfa Ultra 100 Film Simulation Recipe, using Classic Negative as the base. I said of it, “I’m actually not fully satisfied with this Recipe. I think sometimes it’s pretty spot-on, and I think other times it is significantly off.” Two years later, having just re-reviewed a lot of Agfa Ultra 100 photographs in preparation for this article, I completely agree with that assessment: some of the pictures captured with my Agfa Ultra 100 Recipe look extremely similar to some pictures I found captured with the film stock, while others don’t look especially alike. That shouldn’t be too surprising because one film can produce many different looks based on a host of factors, including how shot, developed, printed and/or scanned.
I recently received an email from a film photographer who has been shooting with Agfa Ultra 100 for many years. He purchased a large supply of the film back in 2007, and has kept it in his freezer ever since. With his supply now running low, he began to look for alternatives, and in the process stumbled upon Fuji X Weekly. Unfortunately, my Agfa Ultra 100 Film Simulation Recipe wasn’t a good match for his pictures, so he reached out to me to see if it would be possible to better replicate his photographs. He sent me some samples, and I noticed right away that it was dissimilar from my Recipe. His pictures had a distinct Nostalgic Neg. vibe, so I thought I could probably recreate the aesthetic using that film simulation.
His Agfa Ultra 100 pictures were captured with Pantax MZ-S 35mm SLR, overexposed slightly to compensate for the film being expired, developed by MPix, and scanned on a Noritsu. No post-processing was done, other than whatever corrections the lab may have made while scanning. The resulting pictures looked different than my Recipe, and also different from most of the photographs captured with the film that I found online. In particular, his photographs were significantly warmer and a tad more vibrant than my original Recipe. After a few days of tweaking, I feel like I got really close to the specific aesthetic of his pictures. He only sent me a handful of images to examine, so it’s based on a small sampling; however, this new Recipe seems like a pretty good match overall.
My new Agfa Ultra 100 v2 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with fifth-generation X-Trans cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, X-S20, and X100VI cameras. Those with newer GFX cameras that have the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation can use it, too; however, it will render slightly different (try it anyway). While this Recipe is intended for sunny daylight situations, it does surprisingly well in a variety of light scenarios.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Dynamic Range: DR400 Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: 5800K, -3 Red & -3 Blue Highlight:+1.5 Shadow: +1 Color: +3 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Agfa Ultra 100 v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Comparison:
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
I was flipping through the pages of a photo album that my grandma had put together a long time ago, when I saw something interesting. Most of the pictures in this book were captured before I was born, and some when I was very young. I came across a group of color prints that all looked similar. They were warm—very yellowish—with fairly subdued colors, kind of flat-looking, yet with a decent amount of contrast. Blown-out highlights was a commonality among many (but not all) of the prints. A month and year were printed on the border, along with a red fox. Kodak is faintly visible on the back of the paper.
I was very intrigued by the aesthetic of these photographs. There was an obvious resemblance to my 1970’s Summer Film Simulation Recipe, although not quite identical. So I set out to recreate it with my Fujifilm X-T5.
From the clues, I determined that the film was most likely Kodacolor-X, which was a popular color negative film from that era. It required the C-22 development process, which was a predecessor to C-41. The prints likely are a bit discolored and faded due to age, and probably looked slightly different when they were newly made. Many of them were square, and those were likely shot on a Kodak Instamatic camera and on 126 format film; the rectangular pictures are from 35mm film. Most of the prints were developed in 1971, although some had dates in 1972 printed on the border. The red fox indicates that it was developed at Fox Photo, which at the time was a popular one-hour photo lab. Interestingly, in the iconic mall scene in Back to the Future, it’s a Fox Photo that get’s destroyed by the VW van.
I made a scan of one of the prints, and it really messed up the look. I did my best to correct it to closely match the print, and I did get pretty close; however, it’s not 100% identical. I didn’t use this scan, but the prints themselves, to create the 1971 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe. I think you can still get a pretty good idea of what the prints look like from the scan.
The aesthetic that the 1971 Kodak Recipe produces is very similar to Kodacolor-X film printed on Kodak paper in the early-1970’s, and viewed today after aging. The most similar Recipe to this is 1970’s Summer, and I’ve included a comparison at the bottom so that you can see the difference. This Recipe is compatible with fifth-generation X-Trans cameras from Fujifilm, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20 (yes, the X-S20), as well as the upcoming X100VI. I’m sure that you can use it on the latest GFX models, too; however, I don’t have any personal experience with that, and it’s likely to render slightly different (try it anyway). This Recipe pairs very well with vintage glass (or inexpensive third-party lenses with character), and is best for sunny daylight scenarios.
The Fuji X Weekly App is free, yet becoming a Fuji X Weekly Patron unlocks the best App experience! One benefit of being a Patron is you get early access to some new Film Simulation Recipes. These Early-Access Recipes will eventually become available free to everyone in time, including this new one. Patrons help support Fuji X Weekly and, really, without them there would be no App. So I want to give a special “thank you” to all of the Patrons! If you are an App Patron, be sure to look for this new Recipe in the App!
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this 1971 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Comparison:
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This is Part 1 of what will be a series of articles on this topic. I actually attempted to do this back in the summer, but got sidetracked, and never made it beyond the first post. So those with an X-Trans V camera get a little bonus. My hope is to make it all the way through X-Trans I, so if you have an older model, don’t worry—we’ll get to your camera soon.
The list of Film Simulation Recipes below are my “Essential 7” for X-Trans V cameras. If you are not sure which Recipes to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets, these are my suggestions for you to begin with. These are the ones that you must try, in my opinion. You might love all of them, you might only appreciate some of them, or you might not like any of them. Each person has their own styles and tastes, and there’s no one single Recipe that’s universally loved by everyone (although a few seem close). Still, give these seven a try—keep the ones you like, and replace the ones that you don’t.
An important side note here: this list isn’t necessarily made up of versatile Recipes. Like film, most Film Simulation Recipes have specific use cases, such as sunny daylight, so not all of these option will be good for night photography, for example, or perhaps other situations. Be sure to visit my Which Film Simulation Recipe, When?for a more comprehensive list of options for various use cases.
This list is specifically for X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20. The X-S20 is a bit controversial to be included here because it has an X-Trans IV sensor paired with the X-Trans V processor, but since it seems to render more similar to X-Trans V than X-Trans IV, and has the X-Trans V JPEG options, it is included in this list. Also, use this list for the upcoming X100V successor, once it comes out (in February or March, most likely). Next up in this series is X-Trans IV.
The Essential 7 Film Simulation Recipes to program into your X-Trans V camera first:
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Fujifilm introduced a new film simulation with the GFX100 II called Reala Ace. Fujifilm says that it “combines faithful reproduction with hard tonality,” showing it with a little higher vibrancy than Classic Negative paired with a tonality more similar to Provia. Some have described it as being true-to-life. Photographs that I have found captured with the new film simulation have a Classic Negative look, but with an increase in color, a reduction in contrast, and significantly more blue. I think this new film sim could have been called Classic Negative v2, but Fujifilm named it Reala Ace instead.
Fujicolor Reala 100 was Fujifilm’s first Superia film, even though initially it did not have Superia in the name. Superia films shared Fuji’s “4th layer technology” and Reala was the first to have it, but Reala was marketed towards “pro” photographers while Superia was marketed towards “consumer” photographers. Eventually, though, Fujifilm added Superia to Reala’s name. There were several different versions of Reala manufactured, including a high-ISO Tungsten one made for motion pictures, but Reala 100 was the most popular. Reala was very similar to Superia, but Superia was intended for “general purpose” photography while Reala was intended for portrait and wedding photography. Colors are rendered a little differently between the two films, especially blue, which is deeper and more saturated on Reala, despite Reala being overall slightly less saturated than Superia 100. Fujifilm discontinued Reala in 2013. I have a Film Simulation Recipe that replicates Fujicolor Reala 100, which uses Classic Negative as the base, since Classic Negative is closely modeled after Superia film.
On occasion, Fujifilm named certain film stocks differently in Japan than the rest of the world, and there were several film stocks made available only in Japan. Fujicolor Reala Ace 100 was a color negative film sold only in Japan. Some speculated that it was the exact same thing as Fujicolor Superia Reala 100 just sold under a slightly different name, while others said that Fujicolor Reala Ace 100 was a unique film similar to the Reala sold worldwide except fine-tuned for Japanese skin tones. There doesn’t seem to be any consensus on which is correct, but I’d bet that the latter is true. It was said for decades that Fujifilm kept their best emulsions in Japan. For whatever reason, Fujifilm went with the name Reala Ace for their new film simulation, and not simply Reala. Not all film sims are accurate reproductions of the emulsions that they’re named after, but Reala Ace seems to have the right vibe for replicating actual Reala film.
I have never used the new Reala Ace film simulation. There aren’t a lot of examples of it, but there are some; however, it’s impossible to know if those images are straight-out-of-camera factory-default Reala Ace JPEGs, or if the photographer adjusted some parameters or post-edited the pictures in some way. Trying to emulate new film simulations when there’s not a lot known about it is tricky, and the results are often wrong. For example, my attempt at Classic Negative was way off, and I stated that it would likely be—I was hesitant to publish it for that reason. Nostalgic Negative was a near identical story, and I stated, “…this Recipe will likely turn out to be an inaccurate facsimile to the real Nostalgic Negative film simulation.” I was right about that. This time, though, is different, as I am confident that this Reala Ace film simulation is a close approximation of the real thing. It might not be perfect, but it is definitely in the ballpark. I bet that it is a 95% match—if not closer—but it’s impossible to know for certain until more samples come out, and (even better) it trickles out to other models and I have a chance to try it myself. It’s definitely close enough that I feel quite good calling it Reala Ace.
Fujifilm said of the new film sim, “As an approach to rich gradation expression, the new sensor for the GFX100 II is the best fit for it. Without this sensor, we are not able to realize the Reala film simulation in it.” They talked about silver halide and signal-to-noise ratios and stuff. You might think this means that Reala Ace won’t make its way to the X-series; however, Fujifilm said something very similar about Nostalgic Neg., yet it is now available for X-Trans V generation models, including the X-S20, which has an X-Trans IV sensor. I think this is just Fujifilm’s way of saying that it’s not coming to X-Trans right away. I, of course, believe that this is a big mistake, because the majority of GFX users don’t use Film Simulation Recipes and won’t really care about this new film sim, while a whole lot of X-series owners do use Recipes and do care a lot about new film simulations. Fujifilm is letting what could be a big promotional opportunity just slip through their fingers, which is exactly what they did with Nostalgic Negative. I hope someday they learn this lesson, and stop making the same mistake over and over. Fujifilm: seriously, and I cannot state this any louder or more clearly, you need to introduce new film simulations with significant X-Trans releases, and not GFX. We can all see through the bogus it-has-to-be-100mp excuse, because I did in three days (and with much more limited resources) what you said wasn’t possible, and made Reala Ace available to all those with X-Trans V cameras. Please don’t hate me for rectifying your mistake, as this Recipe will likely influence more people to buy an X-series camera than Reala Ace will cause people to buy the GXF100 II. For those looking for an excuse to upgrade to an X-Trans V model, this Reala Ace Film Simulation Recipe might just be it for you, because it is that good.
I love this new Reala Ace Film Simulation Recipe, and for me it’s an instant favorite! It is kind of like a cross between the Fujicolor Reala 100 and Fujicolor NPS 160 Pulled Recipes—you could consider it a “v2” of either of those two, although it has a much stronger Reala vibe than NPS 160. The Recipe is soft yet colorful, highly versatile, and has a clear analog-like aesthetic. It’s just as Fujifilm put it: suitable for all subjects and situations. If you have a fifth-generation X-Trans camera, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2s, X-H2, X-T5, and X-S20 (yes, the X-S20!), I invite you to try this Reala Ace Recipe today! If you have a fourth-generation X-Trans camera with Classic Negative and half-point Highlight/Shadow adjustments, which are the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II, you can also use this Recipe, but know that blues will be render slightly less deeply (try it anyway). For the X-Pro3 and X100V, consider Highlight set to -1 in low contrast situations and -2 in high contrast situations.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Weak, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: Auto, -1 Red & +1 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1.5 Shadow: -2 Color: +2 Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Reala Ace Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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Find this Film Simulation Recipe and over 300 more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
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Nobody pays me to write the content found on the Fuji X Weekly blog. There’s a real cost to running this website. I also put a lot of my own time into writing the posts. If you’ve found something on Fuji X Weekly helpful to you and you’d like to give back, this is a good place to do it. You can donate to this blog using PayPal by clicking below. I appreciate it! Thank you for your support! Please do not feel obligated to give, but do so only if you want to.
I get asked somewhat regularly which Film Simulation Recipes one should try first. Perhaps you just purchased your first Fujifilm camera, or maybe you’ve had one for awhile but have never tried Recipes before—with so many to choose from (there are now 300 Film Simulation Recipes on the Fuji X Weekly App!), it can be hard to know where to start. Which Recipes are essential to program into your camera right away?
Everyone has their own tastes and style, so what one person might love another might not. That’s why it’s great to have such a wide variety to choose from—there’s bound to be at least a few that you’ll appreciate. Options are good up until the point where there are too many, and it becomes difficult to decide. I don’t want you to be paralyzed by choices, so let me suggest seven to program into your C1-C7 Custom Presets first. You might love all of them, or you might find that only one or two suit you well. Either way, these are ones that you should definitely try.
This will be a series of articles. The first one, which you are reading now, is for X-Trans V models, and I’ll work my way through the other sensors in the parts to come. If you have a Fujifilm X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, or X-S20, I invite you to program the Film Simulation Recipes below into your camera.
There are a couple of special notes about the X-S20. First, it has an X-Trans IV sensor but an X-Trans V processor, so it’s a bit iffy if it should be included in this list or with the X-Trans IV cameras; however, reports I have received indicate that, due to its rendering and options, it best fits in the X-Trans V category. Second, the X-S20 has only four custom presets and not seven, so pick the four below that are the most intriguing to you, and once you’ve had a chance to try those, then replace your least favorite with another from this list.
Without further ado, let’s take a look at seven Film Simulation Recipes to program into your Fujifilm X-Trans V camera first!
Kodachrome 64 was a classic slide film, and it’s become a classic Film Simulation Recipe. It’s very popular, and it would be a shame to not include it—in fact, I put it first for a reason. This is one of those Recipes that everyone should try! It produces a retro 1970’s through 1990’s slide film aesthetic reminiscent of the pictures found on the pages of magazines like National Geographic. For best results use in sunny daylight; however, it can be decent in other situations, too, like overcast, shade, and blue hour.
This Recipe mimics the aesthetic of one of Kodak’s most-loved color negative film stocks: Portra 400. As the name implies, it’s especially well suited for portraits, but it is also good for many genres of photography. Kodak Portra 400 v2 is another Film Simulation Recipe intended for use in sunny daylight situations, and it’s my favorite option for golden hour images.
Fujicolor Super HG v2 produces a 1980’s Fujifilm color negative film vibe, which is notably divergent from the aesthetic of the first two suggested options. Perhaps more importantly, this Recipe is highly versatile, and can be used for almost any subject or light—including overcast, indoor artificial light, and nighttime cityscapes—where some other Recipes might be less than ideal. If you are after one option that can do it all, take a look at this one.
The Pacific Blues Film Simulation Recipe is specifically intended for a sunny summer day at the beach, which it is absolutely incredible for, but it’s surprisingly good for other situations, too. I’ve had great success with it on dreary overcast and foggy days. I’ve used it for portraits. I’ve used it for natural light indoors. It’s definitely not always the best Recipe for a given situation, but it often does quite well, and sometimes the pictures it produces are just stunning.
If you want a vintage vibe from your photographs, 1970’s Summer is for you! It produces a New American Color aesthetic that will transport you back in time 50 or so years. For best results, use in sunny daylight—this is a great option for when the sun is high in-between the two golden hour periods. This Recipe isn’t particularly versatile, but when it works it’s absolutely incredible.
Vibrant Arizona mimics the Wes Anderson look that’s in-style right now. It’s bright, warm, and colorful. This Recipe is intended for use in sunny daylight, especially harsh midday light. It’s not always the best option, but in the right situations it’s wonderful.
It would be a shame not to include a black-and-white Recipe in this list, so we’ll conclude with Kodak T-Max P3200, which is not only a great monochrome option, but is also excellent for high-ISO photography. If the light is getting dim and you need to bump the ISO up a bit, this is a great one to use. Or if you want classic B&W pictures with grain and good contrast, the Kodak T-Max P3200 Film Simulation Recipe will produce that for you.
Find these Film Simulation Recipes and many more on the Fuji X Weekly App! Consider becoming a Patron subscriber to unlock the best App experience and to support Fuji X Weekly.
This post contains affiliate links, and if you make a purchase using my links I’ll be compensated a small amount for it.
Nobody pays me to write the content found on the Fuji X Weekly blog. There’s a real cost to running this website. I also put a lot of my own time into writing the posts. If you’ve found something on Fuji X Weekly helpful to you and you’d like to give back, this is a good place to do it. You can donate to this blog using PayPal by clicking below. I appreciate it! Thank you for your support! Please do not feel obligated to give, but do so only if you want to.
Is the new Fujifilm X-S20 X-Trans IV or X-Trans V? I’ve been asked this question a handful of times, so I thought it would be worthwhile to answer on the Fuji X Weekly blog.
The nearly three-year-old Fujifilm X-S10 is an X-Trans IV model, and we’re over one year deep into the X-Trans V generation, so surely the X-S20 is X-Trans V, right? It’s not that simple. You see, Fujifilm is using the X-Trans IV sensor inside the X-S20. Does that then makes it an X-Trans IV model? Well, the X-S20 has the new X-Processor 5 chip. So is the camera X-Trans IV or V? The answer is yes! The X-S20 is both X-Trans IV and X-Trans V at the same time.
This isn’t the first time that Fujifilm has done this. The often-overlooked X-M1 had an X-Trans I sensor paired with the X-Trans II processor. Still, this is an unusual arrangement in the Fujifilm lineup. It’s a rare exception to the norm. The X-Trans IV sensor is “old” now, but it is still quite excellent, so I don’t think it was a bad move by Fujifilm whatsoever to keep using it. Personally, I really like the X-Trans IV sensor.
The question is whether you should use X-Trans IV Film Simulation Recipes or X-Trans V Recipes on the X-S20? The differences between the aesthetic output of these two sensor generations are pretty minor. The biggest distinction is how deeply blue is rendered on some film simulations; most notably, on X-Trans V cameras, Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass render blue more deeply than on X-Trans IV models.
I’ve never used a Fujifilm X-S20 (and probably never will, unless Fujifilm sends one to me …hint, hint Fujifilm), so I have no firsthand experience on how exactly blue behaves on it. Is it more like X-Trans IV or V? I don’t have a definitive answer. But, two people have reported to me that they believe the X-S20 output looks the same as other X-Trans V cameras, so I’m inclined to believe that the programming makes pictures captured with it look like X-Trans V despite the X-Trans IV sensor. With that said, I don’t believe it matters a whole lot since the output is so similar, and I think it’s ok to use either X-Trans IV or X-Trans V Film Simulation Recipes. My recommendation is to use X-Trans V Recipes, as well as X-Trans IV Recipes that use Provia, Velvia, Astia, PRO Neg. Hi, PRO Neg. Std, Acros, Monochrome, and Sepia; for X-Trans IV Recipes that use Classic Chrome, Classic Negative, Eterna, and Eterna Bleach Bypass, reduce Color Chrome FX Blue by one notch (Weak instead of Strong, Off instead of Weak) when possible. That’s simply a recommendation, as I’m not certain what the right answer is.
Do you like the results that a particular Film Simulation Recipe produces? If a certain Recipe gives you the look you want—whether it’s an X-Trans V, X-Trans IV, or even X-Trans III Recipe—that’s what’s important, and it’s great that you found it. Whether or not you’re “supposed to” use that one on your camera is irrelevant. I have the Fujifilm X-S20 categorized as an X-Trans V model for Film Simulation Recipe purposes, but don’t let that stop you from using X-Trans IV Recipes on it.
The 1976 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe began as an attempt to recreate the aesthetic of legendary photographer Joel Meyerowitz, an American New Color photographer first known for serendipitous street photos of New York City. Meyerowitz has had one of the most prolific careers of any photographer, and he’s still active today at 85 years old! His look has been one of the most requested to replicate on Fujifilm cameras, so I eagerly delved into what exactly that is and how to mimic it.
One of the first roadblocks I encountered is that Joel Meyerowitz doesn’t have one unique style. His aesthetics vary significantly through the years. That shouldn’t be surprising because he’s on his seventh decade of photography. It’s well known that Meyerowitz used a lot of Kodachrome—in fact, he shot with all three eras of the film. In his early days it was the original ISO 10 Kodachrome, but very quickly that was replaced by Kodachome II and X; a significant chunk of his iconic street photography was captured during this time. Then Kodachrome 25 and 64 came along. All of those emulsions, while very similar, had their unique characteristics. I have a number of Film Simulation Recipes that can produce a Meyerowitz look because they replicate a film that he frequently used, including Vintage Kodachrome, Kodachrome 1, Kodachrome II (here, too), Kodachrome 25 (here, too), and Kodachrome 64 (here and here, too).
While Meyerowitz was known for Kodachrome, many of his most famous photographs were not captured on that film. He used Ektachrome sometimes for his 35mm work, and he used it extensively for his 8×10 large format photography. There have been over 40 different emulsions that carried the Ektachrome brand name, so it’s hard to know which specific ones he used. Some Ektachrome Film Simulation Recipes are Old Ektachrome, Kodak Ektachrome 100SW, Kodak Ektachrome E100VS, Ektachrome E100GX, Ektachrome, Ektachrome 320T, and Thommy’s Ektachrome. Some of these can probably be used to replicate a Meyerowitz look, too.
He didn’t just shoot with Kodachrome and Ektachrome, but also Anscochrome sometimes. He might have used other emulsions, too, it’s not real clear. One thing is for sure: whichever film he used, the emulsion wasn’t the finished picture, the print was (or the replication of the print in a book). Today, film is often scanned, and that’s how we see the photos captured with it, but for much of Meyerowitz’s career, the print (and not the scan) was what we saw. The printing process—the chemicals, the paper, and a host of other factors—could significantly affect the end result. That process changed and evolved over the decades. All of this is to say that no one Film Simulation Recipe will ever be able to replicate all of Joel’s various aesthetics. Probably not even ten Recipes. Aside from the ones already mentioned, 1970’s Summer and especially Summer of 1960 are a couple that could potentially produce a Meyerowitz look.
I studied about fifty of Joel’s photographs, mostly from the 1970’s. Some of them were urban street pictures, some were suburban or small-town images, and others were coastal photos. I looked for commonalities between the various pictures. I paid close attention to the lighting. I focused in on about two dozen that seemed similar enough, and tried to replicate the look with my Fujifilm X-T5. This 1976 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe was my sixth iteration. It’s not perfect, because, even within those 20+ similar Meyerowitz photographs, there are still some subtle differences. Aside from that, Fujifilm’s options, which are much more robust than they used to be, are still limited, and you can only do so much. Still, sometimes the resemblance between some of Joel’s pictures and the images captured with this Recipe are remarkable!
This Film Simulation Recipe got its name because the majority of the pictures that it is based on were captured in 1976. Some were 35mm and likely Kodachrome 25 and Kodachrome 64, but could also be Ektachrome-X and/or Ektachrome Pro 64, or even Anscochrome 64. Some were large format and likely Ektachrome Pro 64, Ektachrome 6118 Tungsten, and/or Ektachrome 160 Daylight, or even possibly Aschochrome 32. 1976 was a pivotal and transitional year for Joel Meyerowitz, as he began to explore landscapes and small-town life, particularly along the Massachusetts coast. He also began shooting with a large format Deardorff view camera. Since this was such an important year in Meyerowitz’s photographic journey, since many of the pictures that this Recipe was modeled after were captured in 1976, and because the vast majority of his photos were shot on Kodak film, I call this Recipe 1976 Kodak.
The 1976 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe is quite versatile, and works well in many lighting situations and for many genres of photography. You might find it to be slightly overly warm in artificial light, but otherwise use it anytime. It’s compatible with Fujifilm X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, and X-S20. Those with newer GFX cameras can use it, too, although it will likely render slightly different (use it anyway!). Try this Recipe with a vintage lens to further replicate a retro aesthetic.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, -2 Red & -4 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: +1.5 Shadow: +3 Color: +4 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this 1976 Kodak Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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The new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation found only on the latest Fujifilm cameras is becoming quite popular! A lot of people really seem to love the aesthetic of it. All X-Trans V models, which (as of this writing) are the X-H2, X-H2s, X-T5, and X-S20, have Nostalgic Neg., as well as a couple of GFX cameras (GFX100S and GFX50S II). Classic Chrome is the most-used film sim by a large margin, followed distantly by Classic Negative and Acros, but currently there’s a lot of interest in the new option.
According to Fujifilm, Nostalgic Neg. is based on “American New Color” photography of the 1970’s. They studied photographs by William Eggleston, Stephen Shore, Joel Sternfeld, and Richard Misrach in order to create it. Eggleston and Sternfeld largely shot on Kodachrome—II and X in the early 1970’s, 25 and 64 in the late ’70’s—while Shore shot mostly Kodacolor, and Misrach shot a lot of Vericolor. All of those are Kodak emulsions, but with different aesthetics. These four photographers had different styles and different darkroom processes, and they each had a unique look; the commonality that Fujifilm found was an “overall atmosphere based on amber.” That’s a basic explanation of what the new film simulation is. While not mentioned by Fujifilm, I think Nostalgic Neg. also has some similarities to photographs by Saul Leiter and Joel Meyerowitz. Leiter used a whole bunch of different films over the years, including Kodachrome and Anscochrome, but apparently he didn’t mind using generic drug store brands, either. Meyerowitz mostly shot a mix of Kodachrome and Ektachrome for his color work. Nostalgic Negative is a divergent approach for Fujifilm, I think, in that it is not intended to mimic a certain emulsion (or the “memory color” of a specific film stock), but instead tries to mimic the “memory color” of a certain decade (the 1970’s), or perhaps simply elicit a nostalgic emotional response.
A lot of various looks can be made using the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation. Because it is largely intended to mimic a retro Kodak aesthetic, it’s a good starting point for Kodak-esque Film Simulation Recipes. While some of my Recipes that use Nostalgic Neg. are intended to replicate a specific stock, most of them are not, and instead are more reminiscent of a certain time or era instead of a specific emulsion; however, some of those were made from studying pictures captured on specific films, so they do tend to resemble actual film stocks to an extent.
I get asked which Nostalgic Neg. Film Simulation Recipe one should try first on their X-Trans V camera. There are plenty to choose from, and the list is growing. Since your camera has seven custom presets (with the exception of the X-S20, which only has four), I would like to suggest the seven Nostalgic Neg. Recipes below. Choose one or two or even all seven to program into your camera, and give it a try! I bet at least one of them will become a new favorite Film Simulation Recipe that you find yourself using often.
The 1970’s Summer Film Simulation Recipe very much has a nostalgic Kodak “memory color” (as Fujifilm likes to say) that is reminiscent of old color photographs from the 1970’s. You might notice some similarities to William Eggleston’s Election Eve and 2 1/4 series and some of his other work from the late-1960’s through the mid-1970’s—not every picture, but certainly several. You might spot some similarities between this look and some of Stephen Shore’s photographs from the early-to-mid 1970’s. I think there are some similarities to a few of Joel Sternfeld’s American Prospects pictures. There’s a noticeable likeness to several of Richard Misrach’s desert photographs. In other words, 1970’s Summer produces a distinct American New Color aesthetic with a clear 1970’s vibe. This recipe works best in sunny daylight, and is excellent for midday photography.
I found the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways in a used bookstore. It has page after page of amazing photography! I really love the look of the pictures in this particular issue—while not every image looks alike, there is definitely a commonality to the photo aesthetic. For those who don’t know, Arizona Highways is a magazine with an important history. It began in 1925, and in 1946 published the world’s first all-color publication. From the beginning, Arizona Highways has been dedicated to the art of photography. Ansel Adams was a regular contributor. Barry Goldwater, Ray Manley, Chuck Abbott, David and Josef Muench, Ed Ellinger, Esther Henderson, and many other talented photographers were often featured. The publication is full of wonderful images even to this day. While it is not purely a photography magazine, Arizona Highways is a publication that photographers love due to their passion for the medium.
The vast majority of the pictures in the December 1960 issue were captured on Ektachrome, and fair number were shot on Kodachrome. While it was the December issue, most of the photographs had been captured that previous summer. The Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe mimics the aesthetic of the those images, including the magazine photo below, made by Chuck Abbott in July 1960 using Kodachrome.
When I was six-years-old, my family and I went to Expo ’86 World’s Fair in Vancouver, Canada. Not long ago I found many old pictures of that event—personal, in books, and online. The Emulsion ’86 Film Simulation Recipe is highly reminiscent of some of those photographs, producing a nostalgic analog aesthetic that is similar to some pictures from the mid-1980’s (presumably primarily Kodak emulsions). While it is a good option for sunny daylight photography, I especially like how this one looks on dreary overcast days.
The Kodak Negative Film Simulation Recipe isn’t intended to mimic any specific emulsions; instead it has a “memory color” similar to some Kodak films, like Royal Gold, Gold 100, and Ektar 100. It’s not an exact match to any of those, but just in the general ballpark with a warm and vibrant Kodak color negative film palette. Because it uses Auto White Balance, the Kodak Negative Recipe is fairly versatile and can be used for many subjects and lighting situations.
Thommy’s Ektachrome was made by Thomas Schwab, who was simply trying to make a Recipe using the Nostalgic Neg. film sim that would be good for portraits. The Recipe he created has a distinctive Ektachrome aesthetic, especially similar to National Geographic photographs prior to Ektachrome’s discontinuation by 2013 (prior to the revival in 2018). That was, of course, by chance and not intentional, but there certainly are some similarities. This Recipe is not only good for portraits, but also landscapes and I’m sure many genres of photography. Thommy’s Ektachrome does particularly well in sunny daylight, but is good for overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.
I wasn’t trying to emulate any specific film or process when I created the Nostalgia Negative Film Simulation Recipe, I just wanted something that looked good. This was my very first X-Trans V Recipe, and it was simply an attempt to create a better Nostalgic Neg. than just using the default settings. I hoped that perhaps it would even evoke feelings of nostalgia with a vintage analog-like aesthetic.
The creators of the Nostalgic Neg. film simulation stated, “Nostalgic Negative is tuned for the best allrounder settings, but if you want to tweak it to get that classic American New Color look from the ’70’s, there are some adjustments you should make.” This Timeless Negative Film Simulation Recipe is a tweak to Fujifilm’s recommended settings, bringing it closer to a ’70’s vibe. This particular Recipe is especially versatile, and can be used for many different genres of photography and in various light conditions—it’s good for anytime of the day or night.
Comparison
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CineStill 800T is a Kodak Tungsten-balanced motion picture film (specifically, Vision3 500T) that has had the Remjet layer removed so that it can be processed in C41 chemistry. It’s intended for use in indoor artificial light and at night (but could be used anytime with the appropriate color correction filter). Awhile back I found some examples of CineStill 800T that had been shot during the day in overcast conditions and had been push-processed. I liked the picture aesthetics, so I set out to recreate it.
While this Film Simulation Recipe is intended for daytime photography (particularly on overcast days), it does really well at night, too. For the after-dark pictures in this article, I used a 5% CineBloom diffusion filter, but a 10% or 20% might have been more appropriate for replicating the emulsion. I do recommend the use of a diffusion filter for nighttime photography when shooting with this Recipe.
This Pushed CineStill 800T Recipe isn’t new, but simply a modification of the X-Trans IV version for use on X-Trans V cameras. Because X-Trans V renders blue more deeply on some film simulations, a tweak to Color Chrome FX Blue—selecting Weak instead of Strong—was necessary for my Fujifilm X-T5. This Film Simulation Recipe isn’t for everyone or every situation, but some of you will really appreciate it for certain pictures.
Film Simulation: Eterna Bleach Bypass Grain Effect: Strong, Large Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: 7700K, -9 Red & +5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: +1.5 Color: +3 Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs captured using this Pushed CineStill 800T Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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Fujifilm introduced the Super HG line in 1986, with ISO versions between 100 and 1600. It saw several iterations and improvements before Fujifilm replaced it with the Superia line is 1998. This Fujicolor Super HG v2 recipe produces results similar to Super HG 100 or Super HG 200 film. One film can have many different looks depending on how it was shot, developed, and printed or scanned, so this Recipe won’t match every image from the emulsion, but it is definitely in the general ballpark of the film.
Because this Recipe uses the Auto White Priority white balance, it is extremely versatile. It would be like having a whole case full of various color correction filters for your film back in the day, except now you don’t need to carry around a bunch of filters. Use this Recipe anytime of the day or night! As of this writing, this version of Fujicolor Super HG v2 is compatible with the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, X-H2s, and X-S20 cameras. The X-Trans IV version is compatible with the X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II models. If you have a newer GFX model, you can try this or the original iteration—I’m not certain which is most appropriate, so maybe try both and see which one you like better.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Weak Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto White Priority, -3 Red & -1 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -1 Shadow: +1 Color: +2 Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +2/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Fujicolor Super HG v2 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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I get asked all of the time when to use which Film Simulation Recipe. With nearly 300 on the Fuji X Weekly App to choose from, it can be difficult to know when each Recipe should be chosen. Besides, you only have C1-C7 Custom Presets on your Fujifilm camera (most of you, anyway). Which seven Recipes should you have programed? When should you select them?
To understand the idea behind this post, it’s important to go back to Part 1, which explains it all. Definitely review the earlier articles in this series if you never saw them or if it’s been awhile. When I started, the Fujifilm X-T5 wasn’t even announced yet, and I had zero X-Trans V Film Simulation Recipes. By the time I published Part 4, I had a couple of Recipes for the X-T5, but only a couple. This followup had to wait awhile.
I still don’t have a ton of X-Trans V Recipes, but I do have just enough that I could complete this Part 5. I do want this to be an ongoing series, but new posts will likely be few and far between, so don’t expect a Part 6 anytime soon.
Below I will suggest to you seven Film Simulation Recipes (one for each C1-C7 Custom Preset) for you to program into your Fujifilm X-Trans V camera, and state when to use each. If you have a Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, or X-H2S (or any other X-Trans V camera that is released after this is published), I invite you to try these Recipes for the situations that I recommend.
Kodak Portra 400 v2 is a Recipe that does well at anytime during daylight hours, and as the name suggests it is a good option for portrait photography, but I’m going to recommend it specifically for “golden hour” near sunrise and sunset. This really could be your primary use-all-of-the-time Recipe, and that’s why I suggest placing it in C1, but when the sun is low to the horizon, make sure that this is the one you’re shooting with. I personally use this Recipe frequently.
You might be surprised that Kodachrome 64 didn’t make it to the top-spot on this category. I love that Recipe and think it’s a wonderful choice—don’t be afraid to choose it over this… or even over Kodak Portra 400 v2 for “golden hour” photography. Yet, for midday—which I’m defining as daylight that’s in-between the “golden hour” light of sunrise and sunset—I think 1970’s Summer is tough to beat. It’s not the most versatile Recipe, but if the sun is out, it’s an excellent option.
For dreary overcast, Kodak Ultramax 400 is my favorite option. It is a versatile Recipe, so it’s not just good for rainy days, but many other situations, too, including golden hour, midday, shade, indoor, nighttime and more. This could be your go-to Film Simulation Recipe. Emulsion ’86 and Thommy’s Ektachrome are very good runners up, and could also be alternatives for C2.
For natural light indoor photography, my top choice is the Timeless Negative Recipe (although any of the Recipes listed above this could work well, too). Timeless Negative is an all-rounder that could be used in most situations and produce excellent results, but specifically I’m recommending it for natural light indoor pictures. For artificial-light indoor images, use the recipes for nighttime photography below.
I don’t yet have a “Tungsten” Film Simulation Recipe for X-Trans V, but that doesn’t mean you are out of luck. I’ve gotten good results at night with both Kodak Ultramax 400 and Timeless Negative, but Superia Xtra 400 is my favorite for after-dark photography. Superia Xtra 400 is also good for any of the C1-C4 situations mentioned above, as it’s a versatile Recipe—it’s another that could be your go-to for any situation. The two alternatives mentioned below are great options for golden hour or midday photography—I prefer both for that, and Pacific Blues is one of my absolute favorites—but I have also had decent results with those two Recipes at night, so they are worth your consideration (either in C5, or in C1 or C2).
In Parts 1-3, this category was called Alternative Process; however, for Part 4 and Part 5, since there is no Film Simulation Recipe that fits that category, it was renamed Wildcard. My top-option for it is Vintage Bronze, which produces vintage analog-like results in a variety of situations, including daylight and indoors. Alternatively, you could fill C6 with a favorite color Recipe that didn’t make it to C1-C5 above (such as Kodachrome 64 or Pacific Blues). Otherwise, the two options below are also great choices to program here.
Technically speaking, Ilford FP4 Plus 125 is the only black-and-white Film Simulation Recipe made specifically for X-Trans V cameras—and it’s a very good Recipe! But, X-Trans IV B&W Recipes are also compatible with X-Trans V cameras, and of those Kodak Tri-X 400 is my all-time favorite. I definitely recommend that one, but Ilford FP4 Plus 125 is excellent, too.
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I love Arizona Highways magazine! When I was a kid, my grandparents, who lived in Arizona, would give me their old copies of the publication. The pictures were always amazing. I didn’t know it at the time, but that simple act had a profound impact on my life. Eventually I would become a photographer, and I would be significantly influenced by the pictures from that magazine.
For those who don’t know, Arizona Highways is a magazine with an important history. It began in 1925, and in 1946 published the world’s first all-color publication. From the beginning, Arizona Highways has been dedicated to the art of photography. Ansel Adams was a regular contributor. Barry Goldwater, Ray Manley, Chuck Abbott, David and Josef Muench, Ed Ellinger, Esther Henderson, and many other talented photographers were often featured. The publication is full of wonderful images even to this day. While it is not purely a photography magazine, Arizona Highways is a publication that photographers love due to their passion for the medium.
I recently found the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways in a used bookstore. It has page after page of amazing photography! I really love the look of the pictures in this particular issue—while not every image looks alike, there is definitely a commonality to the photo aesthetic. I suppose that some of it is due to the printing process, which the magazine proudly claims is “Micro-Color Lithography” printed on “Glossette Offset Enamel 70-pound base” paper. I believe that the age of the magazine—now over 62-yeas-old!—has something to do with it, as color photographs and pages have a tendency to fade and discolor over time. What about the film? Well, there’s that, too.
In the back of the magazine is a page that provides detailed notes on all of the photographs. For example, the picture shown in the magazine above—entitled The Blossoming Agaves—was photographed by Chuck Abbott in July 1960 during midday using a 5×7 Deardorff View camera set to f/18 and 1/10 shutter on Kodachrome, which had an ISO of 10. You might note that this is the “Sunny 16 Rule” except underexposed by 1/3 stop (presumably to protect the highlights). The detailed notes that were provided are a real treasure trove!
The vast majority of the pictures in the December 1960 issue were captured on Ektachrome. Now Ektachrome prior to 1955 used the E1 development process and was ISO 10, from 1955 to 1958 used the E2 development process and was ISO 32, and from 1959 to 1965 used E3 and was ISO 50—this particular issue had a mix of all three of those Ektachromes. A few Ascochrome images were also published, and those have a look that’s noticeably different than the Ektachrome and Kodachrome pictures. One image was captured on Ektacolor negative film, and that’s the only picture in the issue that wasn’t shot on slide film. Many of the photographs printed in the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways were captured during the spring, summer, or fall of 1960.
Inspired by the aesthetic of the pictures found in the magazine, I set out to mimic the look with my Fujifilm X-T5. After a little fiddling and trial-and-error, I was able to get surprisingly close—almost an exact match to some of the pictures! There are certainly some similarities to both the Ektachrome and Kodachrome photographs published in the December 1960 issue of Arizona Highways, some of which were captured in the summer of 1960, hence the name of this Film Simulation Recipe.
Because this Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe uses the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation, it is only compatible with the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S (as well as any other X-Trans V camera released after this article is published). Those with newer GFX cameras can likely use it, too, although it will probably render slightly different (but try it anyway!). This Recipe seems especially well suited for sunny daylight photography, and does alright in overcast, shade, and natural-light indoors, too.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Strong White Balance: 5250K, -3 Red & -5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: +4 Shadow: +2 Color: +3 Sharpness: -4 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this Summer of 1960 Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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The story doesn’t end there. Recently, Fuji X Weekly reader Dan Allen wanted to help create an Ilford FP4 Plus 125 recipe, and he purchased some rolls of the film to shoot side-by-side with his Fujifilm camera. When he told me this, I sent him Anders’ recipe to try. After he did his experiment, Dan shared with me the results, which were quite fascinating. It turns out that Dan’s Ilford frames and his Fujifilm digital pictures (using Anders’ recipe) looked similar, but the Ilford frames had less contrast, with softer highlights and shadows, so I made a few small modifications to Anders’ recipe to better match Dan’s pictures. Of course, one film can have many different looks, depending on how it was shot, developed, printed, and/or scanned. “This particular film stock,” Anders told me, “is highly tunable, ranging from super clean to ultra gritty.” No single recipe will ever recreate every possible aesthetic from the film.
“Just like the real thing,” Anders explained to me, “a slight underexposure protects the highlights and improves contrast. Centered around the upper half of the grayscale, this recipe ranges from soft and dreamy to sharp and almost graphic with pencil-like lines. It will almost never go entirely black and is great for shadow details.” Ilford originally introduced FP4 Plus 125 way back in 1968, and in 2014 they improved the emulsion, which is what’s currently available.
If you want to use Anders Lindborg’s recipe as he created it, set Dynamic Range to DR100, Highlight to 0, and Shadow to -1. He says that you can “really go crazy” with Clarity and Grain—try Clarity anywhere from -2 to +4, with Grain Weak/Small when using less Clarity (for a cleaner look) and Grain Strong/Large when using more Clarity (for a grittier look). Also, feel free to use the different faux filter options (+Ye, +R, +G) with this recipe.
The Ilford FP4 Plus 125 Film Simulation Recipe is compatible with X-Trans V cameras, which (as of this writing) are the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S, and newer X-Trans IV cameras: X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, and X-T30 II. If you have an X100V or X-Pro3, you can use Anders’ unmodified version (explained above); for the X-T3, X-T30, plus X-Trans III, additionally ignore Clarity and Grain size. This recipe is especially well suited for mid-to-high contrast scenes, paying careful attention to the highlights so as to not clip them.
Film Simulation: Monochrome Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Daylight, +6 Red & -8 Blue Dynamic Range: DR200 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: -1.5 Monochromatic Color: 0 WC & 0 MG Sharpness: 0 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: +2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: -1 to -1/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Ilford FP4 Plus 125” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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This recipe began as an attempt to mimic my “Nostalgic Negative” Film Simulation Recipe for X-Trans IV cameras using the new Nostalgic Neg. film simulation instead of Classic Chrome. I made that recipe before any camera with Nostalgic Neg. had even been released, when there weren’t very many samples available, and little information had been given about it. I observed “something along the lines of Eterna gradation, [with] the Classic Chrome color palette (however, with a warm shift)….” I also stated that it would “likely turn out to be an inaccurate facsimile to the real Nostalgic Negative film simulation….” Turns out that I was right about both.
I set out to see how close I could get to that X-Trans IV Nostalgic Negative recipe using Nostalgic Neg, on my X-T5. I was hoping that I could get a close match, but unfortunately I was only able to get it to be about 90% similar. Even though it wasn’t an exact match, I still liked the aesthetic. From there I gave it a couple of small tweaks to make it look better (but less like the X-Trans IV recipe), and that’s how this Kodak Negative recipe came to be.
To my eyes, without digging too deeply into samples (just “memory color”), this recipe is reminiscent of Kodak Ektar 100. Maybe +4 Color isn’t quite high enough to mimic Ektar film, but there are definitely some similarities between this recipe and the film. I didn’t set out to recreate Ektar, so I’m not worried that it’s not an exact match. There’s certainly a vibrant Kodak color negative film vibe to this recipe; if not Ektar, then maybe Royal Gold 100 or Gold 100 or something along those lines.
This Kodak Negative Film Simulation Recipe is only compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S. I assume that the GFX100S and GFX50S II can also use this recipe, but that it will render slightly different—I don’t have either of those cameras to test it to know for certain. This Kodak Negative recipe is especially well-suited for golden hour photography, but can also be used during most other light situations.
Film Simulation: Nostalgic Neg. Grain Effect: Weak, Large Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: Auto, +1 Red & -4 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: -0.5 Shadow: +2.5 Color: +4 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -3 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +2/3 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Negative” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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Yesterday I stated that I don’t like the inconsistent results from the new AI Auto White Balance found on the Fujifilm X-T5 and the other X-Trans V cameras. This isn’t a problem for most people, I don’t think; however, if you are a wedding or event photographer (or someone who needs consistent rendering over a series of pictures), if you use Film Simulation Recipes and rely on the out-of-camera JPEGs, and if you commonly use Auto White Balance, this is an issue you are likely to encounter, and you will surely be frustrated by it.
For those who are looking for a workaround to this problem, I want to offer you five potential solutions that might be helpful. None are perfect, so I hope that Fujifilm addresses this with a firmware update in the near future, but in the meantime perhaps one of these will be at least ok for you.
1. Use a Film Simulation Recipe that doesn’t use AWB yet matches the lighting conditions. For example, if you will be photographing indoors under artificial light, instead of using AWB, try Serr’s 500T (which uses a specific Kelvin temperature) or CineStill 800T (which uses Fluorescent 3). While AWB recipes are easy to like because of their versatility (Jack-of-all-trades), Auto White Balance won’t always deliver the best results. You’ll have to figure which recipe might be most appropriate for whatever it is that you are photographing, and there could only be one or two that will really work well; however, if you can match the recipe with the scene and situation, that’s when you’ll get the best outcome.
2. Use Custom White Balance. Instead of using Auto White Balance, take a custom white balance measurement in each lighting condition that you encounter. Your camera has three Custom White Balance banks, so you can take a measurement in up to three different situations at the beginning, and just switch between the three banks as you move throughout the event. For example, Custom 1 could be for outdoors, Custom 2 could be for the reception, and Custom 3 could be for the dressing room. If the light changes significantly due to (for example) the sun’s position in the sky or cloud coverage, you might have to remeasure at various times. You’ll have to remember to switch to the appropriate Custom White Balance bank as the light situation changes.
3. Use Auto White Balance Lock (AWB-L). This feature allows you to lock onto a specific white balance for as long as you keep it locked. To do this, first, while in the Shooting Mode (not Playback), press and hold the Disp/Back button until the Bluetooth & Function (Fn) Setting Menu appears. Pick an Fn button (whichever one you like, as long as it isn’t a touchscreen gesture) to customize, and set it to AWB-L. Next, open the Wrench Menu subset, click Button/Dial Setting, select AWB-Lock Mode, and set it to AWB On/Off Switch. Now, when you think AWB is producing a good white balance for the situation, simply press the Fn button you chose to enable AWB-L, and the camera will keep that white balance until you press the button again to disable it. Don’t forget to disable AWB-L when you encounter different lighting.
4. Program the same Film Simulation Recipe into several C1-C7 Custom Presets, but (for example) set the white balance to Daylight (for outdoors) on one, maybe Fluorescent 3 (for indoors) on another, and some other white balance (for another light you expect to encounter) on another. Definitely check the results at the very beginning to make sure it all looks good (and adjust if necessary) before photographing the whole event this way. You’ll have to remember to change to the correct C1-C7 preset as the light situation changes.
5. Take your chances with AWB. If you shoot RAW+JPEG, even if you have no intentions of editing the RAW files, you can reprocess the pictures in-camera or with X RAW Studio if, by chance, a crucial exposure has a weird color cast. You can simply adjust the white balance to be closer to the others, or apply a B&W recipe (such as Kodak Tri-X 400) and call it being creative.
This is a simple update to the Kodak Portra 400 v2 Film Simulation Recipe, which was originally made for X-Trans IV cameras. I discovered that a slight tweak is needed for X-Trans V models, because the new sensor renders blues just a little deeper on some film simulations, including Classic Chrome. For this recipe, simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue from Weak to Off makes it compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S.
Kodak Portra 400 is a popular professional-grade color negative film introduced in 1998. There’s been a number of revisions and improvements to the emulsion over the years, so the Portra that’s available today is slightly different than the original Portra from roughly 25 years ago. As the name suggests, it’s intended for portraitures, but is also a popular option for many other genres of photography. One film can have several different aesthetics depending on many factors, and this particular Film Simulation Recipe is modeled after the Kodak Portra 400 pictures from a specific photographer. It’s one of my absolute favorite recipes for daylight and especially golden hour photography, and it does pretty well in several other light conditions; however, it’s probably not the best option for indoor artificial light, unless you want especially warm pictures.
This Kodak Portra 400 v2 Film Simulation Recipe is intended for Fujifilm X-Trans V models. It’s compatible with newer GFX cameras too, but will likely render slightly different. If you have an X-Pro3, X100V, X-T4, X-S10, X-E4, or X-T30 II, try the Kodak Portra 400 v2 recipe for those models (click here). If you have an X-T3 or X-T30, try the version for those cameras (click here).
Film Simulation: Classic Chrome Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Strong Color Chrome FX Blue: Off White Balance: 5200K, +1 Red & -6 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: 0 Shadow: -2 Color: +2 Sharpness: -2 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: +1/3 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Kodak Portra 400 v2” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
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Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!
This is a simple update to the Superia Xtra 400 Film Simulation Recipe, which was originally made for X-Trans IV cameras. I discovered that a slight tweak is needed for X-Trans V models, because the new sensor renders blues just a little deeper on some film simulations, including Classic Negative. For this recipe, simply setting Color Chrome FX Blue from Strong to Weak makes it compatible with (as of this writing) the Fujifilm X-T5, X-H2, and X-H2S.
Thomas Schwab created the Superia Xtra 400 recipe by capturing a roll of actual Superia Xtra 400 film while also capturing identical exposures with his Fujifilm cameras, then, using X RAW Studio, he worked on the settings until he found a match. As you can imagine, he put a lot of time and effort into creating it! He shared with me some of his side-by-side pictures—comparing the film with his recipe—and it was tough to figure out which was which—they looked so close! Also, just recently another photographer shot a roll of Superia Xtra 400 film and used the Superia Xtra 400 recipe on his Fujifilm camera, and he shared with me the similar results he got between the two. Amazing! Of course, with film, so much depends on how it’s shot, developed, and scanned or printed, and the aesthetic of one emulsion can vary significantly.
Fujifilm introduced Superia Xtra 400, a consumer-grade color negative film, in 1998, replacing Super G Plus 400. This film has been updated a couple of times, first in 2003 and again in 2006. It’s been widely used, thanks to its low cost and versatility. I’ve shot several rolls of this film over the years. This recipe is for Fujifilm X-Trans V cameras. Those with newer GFX models can use it, too, although it will likely render slightly differently.
Film Simulation: Classic Negative Grain Effect: Strong, Small Color Chrome Effect: Off Color Chrome FX Blue: Weak White Balance: Auto, +3 Red & -5 Blue Dynamic Range: DR400 Highlight: 0 Shadow: -1 Color: +4 Sharpness: -1 High ISO NR: -4 Clarity: -2 ISO: Auto, up to ISO 6400 Exposure Compensation: 0 to +1 (typically)
Example photographs, all camera-made JPEGs using this “Superia Xtra 400” Film Simulation Recipe on my Fujifilm X-T5:
Nobody pays me to write the content found on fujixweekly.com. There’s a real cost to operating and maintaining this site, not to mention all the time that I pour into it. If you appreciated this article, please consider making a one-time gift contribution. Thank you!